Fierce fashion graces post-war Paris in ‘The Collection’

By Kat Mulligan TV Media

Post-war Paris becomes the hub of French fashion revival in the “Masterpiece Classic” series “The Collection,” premiering Sunday, Oct. 8, on PBS. The city’s wealthy elites long for a way to elevate the nation’s global standing, and they find a promising solution in Paul Sabine Couture.

The series begins in February of 1947, and centers around the Sabine fashion house, led by brothers Paul (Richard Coyle, “Pusher,” 2012) and Claude (Tom Riley, “Da Vinci’s Demons”). While the creative talent lies within the eccentric and introverted Claude, it is Paul’s business savvy and influence that have the family name circulating among high-level Parisians and fashionistas worldwide.

The family is rounded out by Paul’s charmingly blunt American wife, Helen (Mamie Gummer, “Side Effects,” 2013), and the steadfast matriarch, Yvette (Frances de la Tour, “Outlander”). Collectively, they do what’s necessary to further the business, all the while attempting to suppress any rumors or scandals that might surface to threaten their growing brand.

When a notable man, considered the city’s wealthiest, comes to Paul Sabine Couture looking to revitalize Paris’s international influence, the brothers are initially dismissed for a lack of ingenuity. Luckily, an optimistic American photographer, Billy Novak (Max Deacon, “The Call Up,” 2016), stumbles upon the perfect solution after a touching encounter with a stunning young seamstress from the Sabines’ own atelier, named Nina (Jenna Thiam, “Daydreams,” 2016). An innocent request leads to the development of images that capture the essence of the fashion house: ordinary women transformed by extraordinary craftsmanship and design.

While there is no real Paul Sabine Couture for writer and creator Oliver Goldstick to pull from, the series is clearly influenced by the real-life rumors and exploits of established brands. Nods to Dior and Chanel can be felt in the dramatic events that unfold, along with the innovations established by these houses in creating a new fashion sense for France. Beyond subtle tributes, showrunners enlisted the costume expertise of designers Chattoune & Fab to develop a collection for Paul Sabine Couture. The duo, renowned for its innovative creations in costume design, crafted more than 30 handmade dresses for the fictional fashion house’s line, along with dressing the entire cast.

What results is a unique blend of modern tailoring and 1940s esthetic — something that actor Riley grew to celebrate. In preparation for his role as Claude, Riley told TV Drama Weekly that he attended a few fashion shows. While there, he discovered that fashion was “more than just something that’s thrown away every season” and came to appreciate that “there is a real craft … an art” to the intricate work of fashion design.

The artistic spirit is what propels Claude, though his wavering confidence and sporadic devotion to his work make promoting the family business quite the challenge for his brother. The family dynamics truly take precedent in “The Collection,” as Paul puts the family’s reputation above all else, often suppressing the defiance of moral and societal norms in order to protect the family’s name. Claude doesn’t make this easy for Paul, as he struggles, in Riley’s words, with being “such a tormented little individual.”