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A Little Bit about Potatoes The potato is a type of vegetable called a tuber, and is a relative of the deadly nightshade family of plants. Although there are now over 1000 different types of potatoes throughout the world, recent genetic testing of todays varieties indicate that they all originate from a small area in present-day southern Peru and extreme northwestern Bolivia. Studies indicate the potato was domesticated in this region approximately 7,000 years ago, and was so important as a crop that the Peruvian Quechua language records more than 1,000 words to describe potatoes and potato varieties! Over 99% of the presently cultivated potatoes worldwide come from descendant of these varieties which were later grown in the lowlands of south-central Chile. Potatoes are highly nutritious, in part because they have to store all of the energy needed to grow a new potato plant in the spring. Potatoes are rich in complex carbohydrates and fibre, low in fat and provide a number of vitamins important for good health. They are a rich source of folate (vitamin B9) and minerals such as potassium, magnesium and iron. Potatoes are also exceedingly rich in Vitamin B6, a substance needed for renewing cells in the body, a healthy nervous system and a balanced mood. Just 100g of baked potato contains 21 per cent of the daily value of the vitamin. They are also surprisingly rich in Vitamin C and a medium potato with the skin provides almost half of the recommended daily intake. Potatoes were even eaten by 19th century English and Spanish sailors to fend off scurvy.
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Traditional ploughing typical of later lowland cultivation techniques Wikipedia Commons
Remains of probable hand potato cultivation on North Harris Wikipedia Commons
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The Potato in Scotland The potato was first introduced into Europe around 1570AD, most probably by Spanish sailors returning from the Conquistador expeditions in South America. It was famously brought to Britain around 1580AD, either by the expeditions of Francis Drake or by Sir Walter Raleigh at this time. It is not, however, until around the 18th century that we find any definite evidence of the potato in Scotland but from this point in time the vital role the vegetable has in the story of the country is clear. The use of potatoes as a food crop in lowland Scotland seems to have begun round about 1720, with planting recorded in both the Edinburgh area and in Galloway at this time. These early horticultural experiments were small in scale, and seem to have been aimed at producing a high value luxury crop for the tables of the great and the good. By the 1800s, however, the process of agricultural improvement and enterprising farmers had developed techniques to enable the more widespread cultivation of potatoes as a food stuff for both people and latterly even for animals. In the Scottish Highlands and Islands the introduction of the potato served an altogether more vital role. Although MacDonald's 1741 Gaelic dictionary names the potato as a ‘buntata’, it is not until after 1750 that the tuber becomes widely used. It’s role, as a basic food stuff of the poor, followed the clearance of people from traditional ‘ferm toons’ to make way for sheep. The disruption of traditional agriculture was made worse by the poor, uncultivated coastal land on which people ended up. As well as being highly nutritious, the potato is also hardy, offering a farily reliable crop. Grown in hand dug ‘lazy beds’ the soil improving characteristics of the vegetable also helped bring new ground into horticultural use. 5
A Recipe for Potato Bread From The Agricultural Survey of Argyllshire John Smith 1798
‘To any given weight of flour add the same weight of potatoes. Let the potatoes be well boiled, peeled and mashed Mix them in with the flour whilst warm and then add the yeast, and proceed as in the common method of making bread, making it up as dry as possible 18lb of flour made 22 one 1-half lb of bread, 18 of flour and nine of potatoes made 29 1-half lb. Of the flour three parts were of wheat and one of barley’
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The Potato on Bute: Early Beginnings Exactly when potatoes were introduced onto Bute remains something of a mystery but it is appears that the introduction of the vegetable followed the Lowland pattern, rather than the Highland. The first real evidence of potatoes on Bute comes from Thomas Pennant, who visits the island in 1770 and notes the modernised agricultural practices of the island, the produce of which includes ‘barley oats and potatoes.’ Pennant credits the Third Earl of Bute as the main reason for the advanced state of agriculture on the island. He had adopted improvements to farming practice with enthusiasm and sought to encourage tenants to do the same, through things like the introduction of 19 year farm leases, and various incentives for farmers to use the new technologies and methods becoming available. He also sought out new techniques for the islanders to use. Most significant for this research is a letter in the Mount Stuart archives entitled ‘An account of the methods used by Mr Graham at Kilsyth in Planting Potatoes’. This three page document effectively lays out a growing guide for potatoes that was to become the basis of the Bute potato revolution. The guide offers information about potato growing as part of a new crop rotation system It provides detailed information about how to prepare the ground, when to plant, how to plant and when to lift the potatoes, and the specialised machinery required. The lessons were obviously well learned. By 1791 the potato is recorded as being ‘in great plenty’ in the First Statistical Account for Kingarth. The 1797 Agricultural Survey of Argyllshire offers some insight into how they were eaten, including the recipe for potato bread opposite. 7
Rothesay Pier with barrels of potatoes ready for export bottom left ŠMacCallum Archive
Tattie Howkers, Largizean Farm , Bute ŠMacCallum Archive 8
The Potato on Bute: 19th Century Developments The 19th century marked a significant expansion in the popularity of potatoes as a crop, fuelled in part by the need for cheap food for the rapidly expanding cities of the industrial revolution. On Bute the 1816 Agricultural Survey records how the traditional infield and outfield farming system was being replaced by the new enclosed field rotation system, and the more efficient potato drill employed as a means of cultivation. The Survey also highlights the potential for Bute to supply potatoes to Glasgow at a cheaper rate than local farmers thanks to the increasing access to water transport. By 1840 390 acres of Kingarth parish and 570 acres of Rothesay parish were given over to potato and turnip cultivation producing annual money returns of 9600 pounds per annum. Clearly by this time the crop had become a valuable and much produced commodity. In 1845-6 potato blight decimated communities in Ireland and parts of the Scottish Highlands but the almost complete absence of discussion in either contemporary or later records about Bute would suggest that impact was minimal, possibly due to the advanced state of mixed agriculture. Clearly in 1863 potato growing remained firmly established and rent ledgers for potato beds at Kilchattan Bay at this time in the Mount Stuart archives suggest any interruption was temporary. In 1880 Archibald M'Neilage, although sceptical of the financial value for potato growing, records a thriving early potato industry at Kingarth and Kilchattan. These were mostly for export to the Glasgow market, and he notes the competition between farms to send the first ‘earlys’ to market. Rent ledgers in the Mount Stuart archives record the names of some of these farmers in 1863 and 1876 and the rents paid for their plots. 9
Imperial War Museum Wartime Potato Cakes Fry 3 small onions, chopped finely, in margarine until soft. Boil and mash 3lbs potatos and add a knob of margarine Beat together the onions and the potatoes along with 1lb of self raising flour and 2 teaspoons of baking powder Season with salt and pepper Knead the mixture on a floured surface until it becomes firm like bread dough Form into 3-sausages. Cut into 1 inch slices Cook in oven at 200 c or gas 6 for 15-20 minutes or pan fry until golden brown
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The Potato on Bute: Wartime Staple By the early twentieth century, the potato was established as a key part of the island agriculture. We are certain that potatoes continued to be grown as an export and seed crop, and were probably sold through local seed merchants like James Dobbie (of modern garden centre fame). Although the minutes of the Bute Agricultural Society are largely silent on the crop, local growers clearly continued to produce new varieties for show, such as Beauty of Bute, Marquis of Bute, and Bute Blues. It was, however, not until the Second World War that the next significant advance in potato growing took place. The Ministry of Food saw the potato as the main source of carbohydrates as part of the national wartime diet and supported farmers growing them with a guarantee of a market and price. The most famous slogan of this time ‘Dig for Victory’ also exhorted people to grow their own vegetables, and a plethora of radio series, pamphlets and books supported this initiatives. Central to the strategy of producing cheap nutritious food was the potato, which was highlighted as a key crop for back garden and allotment horticulture to supplement the limited rations diet. In many ways this echoed the reasons for adoption of the vegetable by the Highlanders some 200 years earlier. One of the key figures in this movement was C.H.Middleton. His wartime broadcasts made him the Alan Tichmarch of his day and his advice on potato chitting, planting and growing is still valuable and informative. A publication by Alec Bristow ‘Run Your Own Allotment’ offered similar advice. The scale and extent of wartime horticulture on Bute is unrecorded but was an undoubtable boost to farming that had repercussions well into the second half of the twentieth century. 11
Modern Industrial Potato Cultivation by Tractor
The first crop of organic, hand grown Bute potatoes from Bute Produce
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The Potato on Bute: New Beginnings Post-war potato growing on Bute went from strength to strength. The ‘Bute Potatoes’ brand became as well known as Ayrshire and other early potatoes, and the competition between farms became regional, with Bute farmers competing with other growers in Scotland to get the first ‘earlys’ to market. The succession of Rockets, Epicures and Ayrshires became a well known island rhythm for locals and visitors and tattie howking became a valuable if backbreaking source of seasonal income for many on the island. By the 1990’s however, the industry was declining. A reduced local market coupled with the rise of the supermarket buying power meant that potato growing was becoming increasingly uneconomical, and limited to fewer and fewer farms By 2012 commercial potato growing had ceased altogether. In 2014 a new initiative was started to revive Bute’s potato tradition. Led by Bute Produce, and supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund, the project aims to develop strategies to allow for the conservation of organic Bute named potatoes through a growing and education programme which utilises traditional methods. Bute Produce secured just five tubers of three heritage varieties from Science and Advice for Scottish Agriculture (SASA). Utilising traditional horticultural skills, the team have produced a successful crop of each. Each crop will be used as seed for the next phase of the programme. The varieties are: Beauty of Bute, an early main crop, from local breeder James Heron, dating to 1890 Pride of Bute, an early main crop, grower unknown, dating to around 1914 Marquis of Bute, a second early, from Donald McKelvie of Lamlash, dating to 1915 13
Š OpenStreetMap contributors
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Further Information Bute Produce is a market garden committed to growing local produce, located at Ashfield, opposite Rothesay Joint Campus. The project began in 2008 and its official opening was in September 2009. The site stretches over 6 acres and is divided to accommodate a variety of growing conditions including field, raised beds and poly-tunnels. The project not only aims to provide local, affordable produce for the island but also hopes to help reduce local carbon emissions through the reduction of food miles The site also hosts the first approved wind turbine on Bute, christened ‘Jenny the Generator’ by pupils at Rothesay Primary School. Bute Produce is a Royal Botanic Gardens of Edinburgh accredited training centre for Practical Horticulture. Short workshops and accredited training is available for all ages and abilities throughout the year. As a means of promoting local produce the project runs a very successful Green Box Scheme and the Veg Shack on site. Both offer a range of local, fresh, organically grown produce. For those eager to get produce straight from the ground, the Veg Shack is best stocked on a Thursday afternoon and a Friday. For more information on any of the services provided by Bute Produce, call 01700 503181 or visit http:// www.fynefutures.org.uk/buteproduce/ —————————————————————————————-This booklet was written by Paul RJ Duffy. Particular thanks are extended to John MacCallum, Auchindrain Township, Bute Horticultural Society, Bute Museum, Mount Stuart Archives, Rothesay Library and everyone from the Bute community who shared their knowledge with us. 15
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