RING AWAKENING

from Wed Magazine Devon Issue 51

by WED magazine

NOTES ON A WEDDING

Seeking an engagement or wedding ring with minimal impact on the planet? From recycled gold to vintage treasures, here’s what to consider on your quest for a sustainably sourced ring to love forever

words Hannah May

Corrinne Eira Evans

The Remarkable Goldsmiths Kayleigh Gresty Photography

While sustainability is a key consideration for many couples in the throes of wedding planning, the environmental impact of the rings can often be overlooked. Happily, there’s some dazzling options to suit all tastes and budgets from jewellers who are passionate about creating pieces with maximum impact on the eye and minimal impact on the planet.

From rings crafted from recycled materials to sourcing pre-loved treasures, here’s some expert advice for choosing a sustainable symbol of your union.

Material world

“The best way to know your ring is sustainable is to ask about the materials it has been made with,” says Janie Wolverson at Erin Cox, who uses recycled gold as standard. “As we handcraft all our jewellery we know where the metals and gems have been sourced and are more than happy to talk about each piece!”

Designer-maker Corrinne Eira Evans explains the main two options. “There’s recycled – which is where old jewellery, metal scraps and findings are melted back down and reformed into workable material for the jeweller to reuse. This is an amazing way to be environmentally friendly as there’s no mining involved,” she says. “Then there’s Fairtrade or Fairmined. This is another great alternative, supporting miners with the best health and safety from source and making sure they’re paid a fair wage. You can check Fairtrade registered jewellers on fairtrade. org.uk.”

Erin is a proudly registered Fairtrade designer, with each piece bearing the Fairtrade logo alongside her hallmark. “If you are looking to buy Fairtrade, ask to see the hallmark as only makers who follow very stringent guidelines are registered to work with Fairtrade gold will be able to have this mark applied,” suggests Janie.

Isabella Day and Ford Hallam of The Remarkable Goldsmiths in Dartmouth make all their alloys from recycled fine gold. “We make 26 different colours of gold,” says Isabella, who explains how sustainability extends beyond the choice of metal and gemstones. “As master alloy makers, we are a heritage craft and members of the Heritage Crafts Association. Our knowledge in this is protected as an intangible cultural asset – commissioning work from us means that knowledge won’t die and we can pass on our skills. Sustainability is also about protecting and supporting real craftspeople.”

“All the gold we use is 100% recycled and because we cast our jewellery ourselves, we do lots of the recycling in-house too,” says Jamila Hirtenstein from Justin Duance, who also extols the virtues of shopping locally for added provenance and benevolence. “Shopping independent and local has huge impact on the sustainability of our communities,” she says. “It means that your money is circulating among the little fish. Shopping small comes hand in hand with individuality and care, as real love has been put into each piece we make.”

“Our ethics go beyond the materials we use and we’re always looking for ways we can reduce our impact on the planet, from our sustainable cork ring boxes to our morning coffee. Being awarded Plastic Free Status by Plastic Free Penzance and Surfers Against Sewage is a sign of the changes we have made to minimise our plastic pollution,” she adds.

Ethical gems

The stones, however, can be a more problematic issue when it comes to buying your wedding rings, which Jamila further explains. “There’s no Fairtrade certification for gemstones, so there has to be an element of trust involved,” she concedes. “We have made a pledge to only use fully traced gemstones and diamonds in our jewellery, which means that we know where the stone was mined, cut and polished. Once the stones are with us, we continue to keep a record of them right up until they are on your finger.”

“The suppliers we work with are at the forefront of changing the status quo and by supporting them we are seeing the change filtering through. Our white diamonds come from CanadaMark, whose stones over 0.5ct come with a code so you can trace them yourself on their website.”

feature | RINGS | RING AWAKENING

The Remarkable Goldsmiths specialises in Fairmined ethically sourced stones. Isabella cites the example of a ring she is currently working on: “The sapphire comes from Sri Lanka where it’s been mined by local people who are paid fair wages. We get to see photos of the mine with our stones. Our dealer hand selects the gems directly from them there.”

She also works with recycled stones at the Dartmouth atelier, as do the team at Justin Duance. “We are really excited to now have a reliable source of vintage diamonds that were cut by hand in centuries past,” says Jamila. “Old mine cut diamonds twinkle differently from modern brilliant cuts. They have more character and pair beautifully with our sandcast rings, making really individual rings.”

Salt and pepper diamonds are currently a popular choice, not only for their unique appearance but also as they require less resources to mine. Whatever your personal preferences, exercising a degree of due diligence should result in you finding the perfect stone from a sustainable source.

Pre-loved treasures

Of course, you don’t have to buy or commission a piece outright, as purchasing something pre-loved or reworking pieces you already own might also solve the sustainability quandary.

“When purchasing vintage jewellery, be aware the claws on settings will probably be worn and the band may be under more tension from years of love and so will need investment in the near future,” warns Corrinne. “When shopping, make sure to run your fingers over the claws – any catching or grittiness may be the sign of a loose claw.”

“Another option for keeping your rings sustainable is to use your own materials,” says Janie. “Erin is able to remodel your own gold, platinum and stones, or cast the metal in molten wedding ring moulds.” By reusing a vintage or heirloom piece, not only are you extending its story and lifeline, but you’re also guaranteed a beautifully bespoke end product.

It is a process Isabella and Ford at The Remarkable Goldsmiths are passionate about. “We often make rings from inherited gold which is a lovely way to make use of sentimental pieces people no longer want or need,” says Isabella.

“Tastes change, and jewellery carries so much sentiment, it’s really special to be able to give a sentimental piece a new lease of life,” agrees Jamila.

“It can be worth asking members of your family if they have any old jewellery they would contribute as a wedding gift,” she suggests. “Some of the most special pieces we have made have been from amalgamations of family heirlooms.”