GANT | AW09 | Brian Rennie by Brian Rennie Couture

Our first six decades can be summed up in this one shirt. What started out as a mans vision; to create the perfect Oxford Cloth Button Down, has given Gant a place in fashion history. The man was Bernard Gant. After years of making shirts for other brands and large department stores, he and his family started their own business ”Gant of New Haven” in 1949. They soon became famous for inventing a number of creative tailoring features, such as the locker loop, the box pleat and a button on the back collar for keeping the tie in place. These along with introducing the button-down shirt in USA (originally från England), made Gant a must in every modern American wardrobe in the 50’s and 60’s. Today you can find us in more than 70 countries. In order to celebrate our 60th anniversary, we now would like to offer you a very limited heritage collection of Gant’s original shirt with unique details and labels. A classic and an ageless beauty. Just handle it with love, and it will probably last another 60 years.

THE BRITISH EXPERIENCE High times in the Highlands 4 Kilts – The Long & Short of It 25 Highland fling 26 London calling 30 A FAMILY AFFAIR 66 Going places 74 All the young dudes 78 LONDON’s EAST END 86 THE MUST HAVES FOR FALL 92 LOOK OF FW09 96 Photographer Max Cardelli interprets Gant Collection 102 Cocteau – Gant Collection Man 116 An anniversary to remember 120

K i lt s – Th e L o n g & Sh o rt o f I t. Very few garments in the world are as closely associated with a particular geographical location as the kilt is with Scotland. The traditional dress of men and boys in the Highlands since the 16th century, the kilt is simply synonymous with Scotland and is still broadly worn. Six to eight ‘ells’ or yards of fabric are used to create one kilt and considerable skill is involved arranging the pleats to show the pattern of the design. The kilt is usually worn with a shirt, tweed vest or waistcoat, jacket and knitted socks to the knee held in place by garters and finished off with leather brogues. It’s accessorized with a kilt pin that’s attached to the front panel, an embossed or engraved belt and the sporran; a traditional leather purse, often with an animal’s head and tassels. Certain tartans and patterns are associated with a particular clan or sept. Nonclan members can wear district tartan but it is frowned upon if they don tartan that they are not entitled to wear. Highlanders also still find the wearing of kilts and Scottish attire by anyone other than the true Scot anathema, in the same way it would be deemed bad taste to wear another family’s crest. To forgo underwear when wearing a kilt is however in perfect order.

Th e H i g h l a n d s , the rugged, mountainous region of

when it was still light outdoors. We would have picnics by

northern Scotland, are often described as one of the last, un-

the rivers and lochs before jumping into the icy waters. We

touched wildernesses in Britain. There’s something very ro-

would fish for trout and salmon in the hope of catching so-

mantic and magical about the Scottish scenery. The awe-in-

mething to barbeque on an open fire.

spiring, sparsely-populated landscape offers space, solitude and a bit of everything – beautiful, deserted sandy beaches,

Summer seems like an appealing time to visit the Highlands.

heather-covered moorland, mountain-climbing, skiing opp-

There is, however, one setback well known to inhabitants

ortunities, countless castles to explore and historical places

that can drive visitors away forever. From May, there are

to visit. Among the many attractions, there’s Loch Ness with its legendary ‘Nessie’ plesiosaur-like monster, Culloden Battlefield where the Duke of Cumberland defeated Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1746, the stunning Cairngorms National Park and Ben Nevis which at 1344 metres is the highest mountain in the British Isles. As a member of a large Scottish family, my own experience of growing up in the Highlands was about wide open spaces and spending all day outdoors with my older brothers and sisters (regardless of the weather), before warming up by

”Traditions in the Highlands are still strong. This is the only place in world where each family or clan can be identified by their own unique and individual tartan.

roaring log fires or in hot, peat-stained bath water. The sense of freedom was exhilarating and unparalleled.

websites dedicated to the “midge forecast.” By July and August, the pests are out in full ferocious force. These minis-

The seasons in this part of the world are very distinct which

cule biting insects seem to appear from nowhere and swarm

make for very memorable chapters of childhood. In spring,

cloud-like round the nearest human. They can make life a

the climate is cool and flowers are abundant. Mossy grass

misery and certainly keep the numbers of tourists down at

gives one a natural bounce underfoot. Summers are mild and

that time of year. Our family would take refuge at the beach

due to the northerly latitude have longer hours of daylight

where a gentle breeze would keep any bugs at bay. Leaving

than the rest of the UK. For example, there are four more

your bedroom window open during the day – let’s face it,

hours of daylight in the north of Scotland in mid-summer

an easy mistake to make – by nightfall the ceiling could be

than in London. As children, we would walk on the moors

black with midges waiting to pounce.

(a vivid purple when the heather flowers in July), sometimes setting off late in the day and returning in time for supper

highland fling

In autumn, the deciduous trees – beech, birch, lime, chest-

highland fling

nut, ash and rowan – take on a fiery hue. While we would

Despite the historical reputation of being fierce warriors,

go foraging for mushrooms, red squirrels would be collecting

native highlanders are wonderfully gentle people with an

their nuts in preparation for the colder months. Come win-

easy-going and slightly reserved nature. Share a wee dram of

ter, we would play “pirates” with icicles. We nearly always

whiskey with them and they soon open up! Some people may

had a white Christmas and were occasionally snowed in, so-

find the language hard to decipher, but it has a poetic, sing-

metimes unable to leave home for days on end. This was a

songy quality that sounds almost lyrical and melancholic.

great opportunity to toboggan over snow-covered paths, hurl snowballs at one another or have a competition to see who

Traditions in the Highlands are still strong. This is the only

could build the biggest snowman. The Cairngorms offered

place in world where each family or clan can be identified

skiing though we preferred to skate and play ice hockey on

by their own unique and individual tartan. During battles,

the frozen lochs.

wearing tartan was a way of knowing who was the enemy and who was on side. As children, we wore our tartan kilts

To some people, this part of the British Isles seems far away

almost every day, my brothers included. Scots will use any

and remote. Certainly as a child, it felt cut off from the rest

excuse to don their tartan togs for any celebratory or for-

of the world but in many ways, this is what made it special.

mal event – church, a wedding, public gathering such as the

In the days before the arrival of the big supermarkets and

Highland Games, a reel party or funeral – when the bagpipes

well equipped shopping centres, even collecting groceries

will always come out too.

was quite an ordeal. A lot of what we ate either came out of the garden or was shot by my father and brothers. Phea-

As the saying goes, real Scotsmen wear nothing under their

sant, grouse, woodcock, snipe, hare, red deer and roe deer

kilts. While at reel parties as a young girl, I used to sit with

were all regulars at the dining table. Haggis, a traditional

my girlfriends on the floor in our ankle-length frocks in the

Scottish dish of offal (mainly sheep’s heart, liver and lungs)

vain hope that we might get a flash of something. Thank-

minced with onion, oatmeal, suet and spices and boiled in

fully the brilliant design of the kilt with it’s heavy pleated

an animal’s stomach, was a great family favourite. Partnered

fabric and held close to the body at the front with a sporran,

with pureed turnips (or ‘neaps’) and swede and a dash of

keeps Marilyn Monroe moments to a minimum! At some of

whiskey, it was enough to make English friends’ eyes bulge

the more formal dances such as the Northern Meeting or the

with horror.

Skye Ball, guests must adhere to a strict dress code. It’s kilts and jabots or white tie and tails for men, and women, under no

Getting to Scotland used to be quite difficult. The simplest

circumstances, are allowed dresses that reveal their ankles.

way to travel to this part of the country was via the overnight ‘sleeper’ train, from London. It still runs nightly and takes

Even quiet evenings can seem quite formal to the southerner.

roughly 8 hours. Flights to Inverness until recently were few

After days spent on the moor shooting (grouse, pheasant or

and far between but since the expansion of Inverness airport,

partridge being the main game), highland Scots love nothing

many more airlines and destinations are on offer. Driving from

more than getting dressed up in all their finery for dinner –

the south, though scenic in parts, is an arduous journey of up

men in tartan trews (tartan trousers) and velvet jackets and

to ten hours so is always the last option unless you want to

women often in long skirts or dresses. To outsiders these ritu-

make it into an adventure and stop off at a few good spots

als may seem quaint, but to true Scots, they are a way of life.

en route. As soon as you hit the Borders you are spoilt for choice.

highland fling

ends

highland fling

LONDON CALLING B u s y day s i n t h e c i t y w i t h t h i n g s to d o, p l ac e s to g o a n d p e o p l e to s e e . A l i f e l i v e d h e r e a n d n ow d o e s n ’ t e a s i ly g e t d u l l o r o r d i n a ry. P H OTO : OSCAR FAL K .

To celebrate 60 years

of Gant since 1949: the Limited Edition

A n n i v e r s a ry wat c h . 1 9 4 9 i n d i v i d ua l ly n u m b e r e d t i m e p i e c e s w i t h a h i g h - p r e c i s i o n au to m at i c m ov e m e n t a n d t h e u t m o s t at t e n t i o n to d e ta i l , q ua l i t y a n d ac c u r ac y.

LADIES DRESS WHITE, linen. LADIES DRESS WHITE, linen. LADIES DRESS WHITE, linen.

Te s s i e , 12 , i s ti n k e r i n g away o n th e p i a n o g u i d e d by h e r fath e r S a sc h a . N ata lya , 10 , i s p l ay i n g th e f lu te .

A FAMILY AFFAIR . P H OTO : OSCAR FAL K .

J o h n n i e , 4 , i s p o u n d i n g away o n a toy d ru m wh i l e h i s l it tl e b roth e r Z ac h a ry, 2 , i s s ta n d i n g i n th e m i d d l e o f th e ro o m w i l d ly co n d u c ti n g th e o rc h e s tr a w ith wo o d e n s p o o n s . Th e i r m oth e r Te s s a loo k s o n pro u d ly. M e e t th e H a rtm a n n fa m i ly – c r e ati v e g e n i u s e s , f ro m to p to b ot to m ! “Music is a big part of our lives,” says Scottish-born Tessa, who runs her own successful fashion and lifestyle PR company. Her German-born husband works as a music composer and cartoonist and recently created and directed Sir Billi, an animated film starring Sir Sean Connery.

“Sascha is a great jazz pianist so we tend to live with him

playing the piano,” says Tessa. She too is something of a virtuoso having written the screenplay for Sir Billi. “Some people have the radio. We have ‘the jazz man’ as we call him,” she explains. It seems like the other members of the household can’t resist joining in. “The boys make instruments with whatever they can get their hands on – you can imagine. Sometimes it can get quite noisy! I love hearing it in the background when I’m reading the Sunday papers.”

a f a m i ly a f f a i r

The family home has a busy, buzzy, happy atmosphere. The house is traditional looking on the outside with an open-plan interior, recently extended to accommodate the Hartmann’s growing brood. The design had to work for all ages and the walls of the communal rooms painted pale colours. “It’s crucial with young children to have paint so you can easily just brush over the finger marks and make it look fresh again,” Tessa explains. The result is a wonderfully light and airy family space with bare tiled floors or wooden boards – ideal for the boys to chase one another around on their bikes and trikes and to build large towns and car parks out of Lego. “Complete with car noises,” laughs Tessa.

“ S a s c h a i s a g r e at j a z z p i a n i s t s o w e t e n d to l i v e w i t h h i m p l ay i n g t h e p i a n o,” s ays T e s s a . Sh e to o i s s o m e t h i n g o f a v i rt u o s o h av i n g w r i t t e n t h e s c r e e n p l ay f o r S i r B i l l i .” Being the youngest of five, Tessa is quite accustomed to the background clatter and general hullabaloo that comes with a large family. Sascha, on the other hand, is the only child and grew up in Switzerland on the border of Italy in relative peace and quiet. According to Tessa, he would be quite happy sitting for hours in “complete silence” so adapting to the hustle and bustle of daily life took some getting used to.

a f a m i ly a f f a i r

Tessa is very social and loves entertaining – mainly relaxed,

very active and either love to ski near Sascha’s hometown

buffet-style eating – and is a natural hostess after all her

of Lugano or they go for long walks across the Scottish

experience of event planning. Sascha prefers small, more

countryside near Tessa’s parents. Favourite circuits include

intimate groups of people, close friends. “I talk to anybody.

round the West Highland Way or to Loch Lomond or Loch

He prefers to talk to the people he knows,” reveals Tessa who

Katrine. “The girls and I will often take my father ‘Big Johnnie’

points out their differences by what’s on their bedside tables:

with us – he is super-fit for a grandfather of 17!” says Tessa.

“I read Vogue, Grazia and OK Magazine – he reads Friedrich

Athleticism clearly runs in the family as Tessie is a keen cross-

Nietzsche, Carl Jung and Albert Camus – that says it all

country runner and swimmer.

really!” Every Sunday is spent having a lovely long lunch with Tessa’s

a f a m i ly a f f a i r

Despite their dissimilarities, they are clearly a close-knit family

parents. “We have a wonderful day, chatting until the early

that value hanging out together. During the holidays they are

evening. They always cook a fantastic meal, traditional Scottish

a f a m i ly a f f a i r

“ I r e a d Vo g u e , G r a z i a a n d O K M ag a - z i n e – h e r e a d s Friedrich Nietzsche, Carl J u n g a n d A l b e rt C a m u s –

”Modolut adipsust an frem.”

t h at s ays i t a l l r e a l ly ! ” cuisine. My mother makes the main course and my father always does the soup. We have a long-standing family joke that no one makes soup like him. Despite many attempts he wins – so the girls keep reminding me!” Tessa admits cooking is not something that comes naturally to her but she can rely on Tessie to get imaginative in the kitchen. According to her mother, Tessie is very inventive and is quite often to be found in front of the Aga “experimenting”. She can bake, make great soup like her grandfather and does a mean pasta sauce. She has learnt to cook pasta al dente, the proper Italian way (much to Sascha’s delight) and often helps her father make risotto - with Porcini mushrooms, Sascha’s favourite. The great thing is Tessie knows she can try out her recipes on her family. As her mother says: “She has an excellent tasting panel for her research with all of us!” The family’s healthy mix of Scots and German/Swiss/Italian from Sascha, along with Russian from their paternal grandmother made the choice of hometown a bit complicated in the beginning. At first Sascha tried to persuade Tessa to live with him in [his homeland,] Switzerland, but having just set up her company she was loath to completely change her lifestyle. After a trial period of a couple of weeks on his turf, Sascha agreed to up sticks and move. “She’s extremely persuasive,” he smiles [Sascha]. They started off in a small flat in the city, then relocated to a house after the girls were born. Understandably it took a few years for him to get used to life in Britain but now agrees it was a good choice. “This is the right environment for us,” he says. Tessa agrees: “Our family feels complete and so does the house.”

a f a m i ly a f f a i r

S t y l e t h at d o e s n ’ t g e t i n t h e way – h i g h - p e r f o r m a n c e fa b r i c s a n d d e ta i l s d e v e l o p e d f o r a n ac t i v e , m o d e r n l i f e s t y l e . P H OTO : j o h n s c a r i s b r i c k .

R e l a x i n g i n t h e u r b a n j u n g l e . Ta k e a l i t t l e t r i p b ac k i n t i m e , to n at u r a l m at e r i a l s , ru g g e d s h i rt s , v i n tag e d e ta i l s , s t u r dy j e a n s a n d j ac k e t s t h at f e e l o l d b u t a r e s o to day. P H OTO : j o h n s c a r i s b r i c k .

B e s t k n ow n f o r i t s c o c k n e y c o n n e c t i o n s , b u s y s t r e e t m a r k e t s , j e l l i e d e e l s and pie and mash shops, London’s East End has in recent years become one o f t h e c i t y ’ s h ot t e s t d e s t i n at i o n s . H a i l e d a s t h e n e w B o h e m i a , t h e a r e a j u s t e a s t o f t h e f i n a n c i a l C i t y c e n t r e , h a s s n at c h e d t h e l i m e l i g h t f ro m W e s t L o n d o n ’ s m o r e g e n t r i f i e d a n d s o p h i s t i c at e d o l d e r s i b l i n g s N ot t i n g H i l l a n d M a ry l e b o n e .

LONDON’S EAST END by Laura Campbell

White Cube gallery opened on Hoxton Square and Britain’s most successful modern artists such as Damien Hirst, Marc Quinn, Gilbert & George, Jake and Dino Chapman, Tracey Emin and Sam Taylor-Wood started showing there. Now there’s plenty for the art buff to see, from Paul Stolper’s gallery on Luke Street and Bischoff/Wiess on Rivington Street to Kate MacGarry on Vyner Street (see profile) and Rocket Gallery in the Tea Building on Shoreditch High Street. And there are many more, tucked down side streets here and there.

Grittier, edgier, funkier and attracting a young creative crowd, the East End is the capital’s rising star. With a

During London Fashion Week, designers also chose many

fantastic art and music scene, superb cafes, bars, clubs,

of the more unusual buildings on offer in the area to

award-winning restaurants and vibrant street life, it has

unveil their new collections. In the last few years, small

interesting people around. The street fashion is some

all the 24-hour buzz of New York’s East Village in the

diverse enterprises have relocated to live and work in the

of London’s finest and it’s a place that can kick off a

late-Eighties. It is even home to a club/bar called East

vicinity. With the building of the Jubliee Undergound line

national trend – for a certain haircut, brand of trainer

Village which is just the kind of groovy after-dark venue

extension vastly improving transport links, people are

or a wacky way of wearing jeans. While there are

you might stumble across in the Big Apple.

able to move around the city more freely.

downsides to living in a uber-trendy, self-conscious

e q uat u e ro d o l e s s e c t e m ag n i b h .

neighbourhood – house prices go up, the edge gets The shift towards the east first kicked off in the midNineties. The appeal of cheaper housing and rental for small businesses lured hip young urbanites out of pricier

“ R e s i d e n t s l ov e t h e m u lt i - c u lt u r a l m i x o f

west and central London postal codes. Many of Britain’s

t h e n e i g h b o u r h o o d. I t

most contemporary and cutting-edge artists put the

h a s l o n g b e e n a m e lt i n g

place on the map when they moved their studios into

p ot o f p e o p l e f ro m a l l

the large disused warehouses and industrial buildings, that were once the home of the city’s factories and

ov e r t h e g l o b e .”

london’s east end

in smart suits – like any area in a busy city, it keeps changing and evolving. Residents love the multi-cultural mix of the neighbourhood. It has long been a melting pot of people from all over the globe. For centuries, the area around Brick Lane has taken in newcomers often fleeing their native lands looking for cheap living. In the late 17th

workshops.

e q uat u e ro d o l e s s e c t e m ag n i b h .

softened and scruffy dudes get replaced by business men

Inhabitants say it’s an exciting, very urban place to live

century the Protestant Huguenots fled Catholic-ruled

Galleries popped up and were no longer solely located

with a can-do attitude to work and new business

France and made Spitalfields their home (hence the

in the chichi confines of Mayfair in the West End. The

ideas. There’s lots to see and plenty to do and always

origin of ‘refugee’). Many of them came from Tours or

london’s east end

Lyons, centre of the French silk industry and with them

There was a list of the dead women’s names on a sign on

they brought their handlooms and set up business as

the pub wall.

k at e m ac g a r ry – gallery owner

few more trees would be nice,” says Kate. “It’s not the leafiest neighbourhood!”

Inspired by the art scene moving East, Kate MacGarry

silk weavers. By 1700, there were nine French churches and some of the streets still have French names such as

Native East End inhabitants were given the term

moved to the area in the Millennium and opened her

F e r g u s & M a r g ot H e n d e r s o n – St John

Fournier Street, Nantes Passage, Princelet Street and

‘cockney’, a true cockney being someone who was

gallery under the same name in 2002. “Everything I was

restaurant and Rochelle Canteen

French Place. Some of the wealthier Huguenots built

traditionally born or reared within the sound of the

interested in seemed to be happening there,” she says.

large houses that still remain today and are distinctive

St Mary-le-Bow church bells. Some of today’s most

“The pull of the east was very strong at that moment,”

Self-taught chef Fergus Henderson caused quite a

from their enlarged attic windows to let in maximum

illustrious stars, namely Michael Caine and Ray

adds Kate. Her home is a Victorian cottage in Shoredtich

stir in 1994 when he opened St John restaurant in

light for weavers. Records show that there were four

Winstone, are authentic cockneys. Another popular

within walking distance of the gallery on Vyner Street.

Clerkenwell. Majoring on what he refers to as “Nose

weavers left in Fournier Street in the 1930s.

British actor Barbara Windsor stars in one TV’s most

“The artists really inspired me to open the space,” adds

To Tail Eating”, (the title of his bestselling cookbook),

Kate. “I saw the potential in their work and realised this

Fergus is best known for re-educating Brits into eating

would be a way to work with artists in a long term way.”

such carnivorous delights as snails, offal, pig’s head,

After the first year she invited international artists based

stuffed trotters, jellied tripe, ox heart and roast

outside the UK to exhibit in her gallery such as Tokyo-

bone marrow.

By Victorian times, east London was regarded as overcrowded, rife with squalor and disease. However, the novelist Charles Dickens recognised it had some

“ wh at wa s a o n c e ru n d ow n a r e a o f wo r k s h o p s

charm and called it “this most colourful corner of

a n d wa r e h o u s e s i s s l ow ly

the city”, referring to his childhood visits meeting the

t r a n s f o r m i n g i n to a fa n -

born Peter McDonald and Polish artist Goshka Macuga. Appropriately, the In the few years of living there, Kate has witnessed

location is near

a huge transformation with hundreds of new shops,

Smithfields meat market,

bars, cafes and restaurants opening, becoming one of

an institution that has been

popular soap EastEnders which has been broadcast

London’s hippest destinations. “Like Notting Hill, it’s

operating for more than eight

since 1985. Growing up in Shoreditch, she knew two

a hub with a market and a scene,” she says. For lunch,

hundred

Between 1881 and 1914, around 2 million Jews left

infamous cockney characters that dominated the East

Kate either likes to go to Broadway market or to Leila’s

Europe fleeing persecution with around 300,000 heading

End headlines during the 1950s and 1960s. The Kray

Café or Canteen in Arnold Circus. On her days off she

for Britain. Large numbers descended on Spitalfields

brother twins, Reginald “Reggie” and Ronald “Ronnie”

likes to wander down Bethnal Green Road, lined with

and Whitechapel. The Old Jewish Quarter with its

ruled a cruel crime syndicate out east and were involved

useful hardware stores, chemists and paint shops or to

synagogues, kosher food shops and Soup Kitchen set up

in numerous gangster-style killings. As owners of a West

Cheshire Street off Brick Lane where there are great

for the Jewish poor, can still be explored today. It’s also

End nightclub, they hobnobbed with celebrities Frank

boutiques for presents. “I love being near the City and

home to London’s oldest and most famous Beigel Bakery

Sinatra and Judy Garland which gave them a respectable

especially love going for a walk on Sunday when it’s

on Brick Lane which is something of a 24/7 social mecca

front. Once again the East End’s notoriety grew as one of

empty,” says Kate.

and produces over 7000 bagels a night.

London’s less salubrious backwaters.

characters who remained cheerful despite abject poverty and adversity. Many areas of east London were used

ta s t i c p l ac e to v i s i t. ”

as material in his books. For example, the district of Bethnal Green was immortalised in Oliver Twist.

One of Kate’s favourite haunts is The Whitechapel

The area came under scrutiny when the notorious Jack

These days the area has moved on from its macabre

Gallery which was founded in 1901 as one of the first

the Ripper terrorised the prostitutes of Whitechapel in

historical connotations. The regeneration process

public-funded galleries in London. She and her 21/2

the autumn of 1888. The Ten Bells pub in Spitalifields,

continues and what was a once rundown area of

year-old son like to pop into the V&A’s Museum of

opposite architect Nicholas Hawksmoor’s handsome

workshops and warehouses is slowly transforming into

Childhood where exhibitions are aimed at the younger

Christ Church, is indelibly linked to the legend.

a fantastic place to visit. In 2012, Stratford in the East

crowd or they check out Hackney City Farm where

Allegedly the killer met at least one of his victims here

End will play host to the Olympics which will only do

urban children can get to see sheep, goats, pigs, cows

and for a time it was known as Jack the Ripper’s local.

more only boost the area.

among other farmyard scenes. Any downsides? “Well, a

london’s east end

89 89

years making it one of London’s oldest markets. “It still

piste Shoreditch location. Margot particularly likes

businesses and people too,” says Ann. Once their son

in organic chalk on an organic blackboard – included

has the amazing 24-hour life of a market,” enthuses

the vibrancy of the area. “It’s changing all the time

Chipper was born, outside space became a priority. Lee

simple, homemade lunchtime staples like soup, risotto

Fergus, whose restaurant logo is a pig. On selecting a

and has a notorious history that adds sparkle,” she

found a disused wooden building within its own large

and steak sandwiches, but their thin-crusted pizza

former smokehouse as the setting for his restaurant,

says. In summer glass doors open on to the grassed-

deserted secret garden. “Like a green oasis in the middle

deemed so popular, slowly the other options were

Fergus says: “The building chose us.” It’s in an area that

over playground providing the all important al fresco

of a very urban city,” explains Lee.

phased out and now the café just majors on pizza (with

he feels has “a certain musk and a ripe eclectic mix.”

eating. The extensive kitchen doubles up for Margot

Once a nation that devoured everything, Britain lost

With the success of Story, the couple opened Story Deli

wooden tables with stools, candles and good music.

hearty feasts for events both large and small.

five years later. The idea was to provide 100% organic

Customers get to enjoy such foodie treats as pizza

its lust for offal and chitterlings, among other dishes,

take-away food but they found customers wanted to

with wild mushrooms or broad bean, green bean, pea

after the rationing of World War II. With supermarkets

A n n Sh o r e & L e e H o l l i n g wo rt h – Story and

hang out and gradually the business morphed into a

and parma ham topped with fresh, crumbled Buffalo

Story Deli.

small, bustling café. At first, the menu – handwritten

mozzarella.

packaging antiseptic cuts of intensively farmed meat, consumers were – and still are – squeamish, not least because meat has become so removed from its real origin. Getting “abattoir chic” back on the menu was, if you will excuse the pun, no easy feat. A decade on, however, buoyed by the success of his restaurant, Fergus opened St John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields, a more informal place to eat where guests are encouraged to share dishes. Recently the original St John was awarded a much-coveted Michelin star, putting it in the realms of one of Britain’s top restaurants. Another advocate of relaxed, rustic eating is Margot, Fergus’ wife and “number one fan.” She co-runs Rochelle Canteen with Melanie Arnold, wife of Jon Spiteri, head chef at St John. The spartan, utilitarianstyle eaterie occupies the former bike sheds of Rochelle School, a handsome Victorian redbrick building converted into studios for artists, designers, photographers and other creative enterprises. It’s open for weekday lunchtime only and follows the St John ethos of serving no-nonsense, seasonal fare. (Right now chorizo and snail stew is flying out of the door.) The canteen is popular with both the people who work within the old school premises as well as local workers and visitors who know about the rather unusual, off-

30 different organic toppings) served at long, shared

and Melanie’s Nose To Tail catering business providing

london’s east end

When Story opened in Spitalfields in 2000, there was no other shop in London quite like it. More art installation than retail experience, this large whitewashed, bricklined warehouse offers beautifully displayed antique furniture, vintage clothes, recycled jewellery, handtweaked textiles, natural incense, quirky objets trouve and a small range of organic unguents. The undercurrent theme is eco-friendly, raw, natural, rustic, earthy – a simple concept yet combined with the owners’ unique twist. Purchases are packaged in recycled brown paper and organic hemp string and the contents and mood are not affected by what swings in and out of fashion. In keeping with this unconventional approach, the shop is only open on Sundays or by appointment. Owners, stylist Ann Shore and partner Lee Hollingworth have long trumpeted a ‘green’ lifestyle and this overflows into their private life: they always have a second-hand car, decorate their home with recycled finds and eat organic food. They were first attracted to the area by the architecture buying one of the beautiful Georgian houses that define Spitalfields’ historical streets. “You’ve got the heritage of the area but it’s also multi-faceted – you’ve got markets nearby and the City slap bag next door. I love the fact there’s always a feeling of activity. There’s always something happening and there’s a good mix of

london’s east end

MUST H A V ES FOR FALL IN

BLAC K , GRE Y a n d C a m e l

TA K E A LOO K INSIDE

LOO K BOO K F W 0 9

BLAC K STORY Th i s s e a s o n w e ’ v e ta k e n a n ot h e r s t e p i n t h e e vo l u t i o n o f G a n t C o l l e c t i o n . Th e m at e r i a l s a r e e v e n m o r e l u x u r i o u s , s u m p tuous than last season and the cuts m o r e m o d e r n a n d b o l d. H ow e v e r t h e e x p r e s s i o n i s s t i l l c a s ua l y e t s o p h i s t i c at e d. Th e c o l o r s c h e m e i s f u l l o f n e u t r a l s , b l ac k a n d n avy – i n s h o rt; i t ’ s t h e G a n t

W OULD H W H IC

LI K E OU Y

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PICTURES

t r a d i t i o n w i t h a t w i s t. Brian Rennie

” LUXURIOS MATERIALS ,

“Exclusivity doesn’t

MODERN CUTS AND A CASUAL

m e r e ly c o m e f ro m t h e

Y ET SOP H ISTICATED EXPRES -

m at e r i a l s yo u c h o o s e .

SION . NUETRALS , BLAC K AND

It’s just as much a ques-

NAV Y SET T H E TONE .”

t i o n o f c u t s a n d s t y l e .”

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GANT collection p h o t o M a x C a r d e l l i

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s h a d e s o f g a n t. Th e Fa l l / W i n t e r c o l l e c t i o n i s pa i n t e d i n g r e y, b l ac k a n d c a m e l

c o l o r s , a n d s h ow s a n ot h e r s i d e o f G a n t. Th e r e a r e j ac k e t s , t ro u s e r s a n d k n i t t e d s w e at e r s w i t h a s l i m , s m a rt s i l h o u e t t e a n d to n s o f s e l f - c o n f i d e n c e . P H OTO : j o h n scarisbrick.

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