5 minute read

Preserving Heritage at Wakamatsu Farm

BY LAURA PETERSEN

Farmer Kristen Draz of FogDog Farm, took a moment in the shade from her daily summer chores to talk about the significance of farming 10 acres she and her partner William Holland lease from the American River Conservancy.

“This,” she gestures to rows and rows of corn, sunflowers, watermelon, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers and more growing in the hot sun, “this could have been developed into a couple of McMansions. This could have all been destroyed.”

Kristen and William have been independently farming this conserved land in the rolling foothills of El Dorado County since 2019. This is their second year providing certified organic produce to BriarPatch Food Co-op. They feed approximately 100 people through their farmstand and deliver to a number of restaurants in Placer and Nevada Counties. “We’re really excited about the Auburn BriarPatch,” says Kristen. The site where they farm, located near the Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park in Placerville is considered important not just to the state or the nation, but to the world.

Rich in culture and natural resources

On June 8, 1869, the first Japanese settlers in North America arrived in the region, then named “Gold Hill” near the town of Coloma where the gold rush first began. As many as 22 farmers, carpenters, samurai and others came here from Japan to start a new life and establish a tea and silk farm.

American River Conservancy (ARC) now owns and serves as the “culture keepers” of the 272-acre heritage site of the Wakamatsu Tea and Silk Farm Colony. Placer Land Trust holds the easement on this American River Conservancy property.

“This has been a farm for the last 150 years,” says Melissa Lobach, Development Manager for the American River Conservancy. “A healthy farm promotes a healthy habitat for wildlife.”

Wakamatsu Farm in Placerville was first established in 1869 and was the first Japanese settlement in the United States. Issei migrants used their farming skills on the 272-acre farm site to plant tea, mulberry for silkworms, persimmon, bamboo and rice. The photograph is among several donated to the California state parks system several years ago to celebrate the history of the Wakamatsu colony. Matsugoro Ofuji, a carpenter who came from Japan in 1869, is believed to be pictured in this photo.

Though the Japanese settlement only lasted two years, the families who homesteaded the land in subsequent years kept up the heritage of agriculture. Keeping sustainable, well-managed and productive farming alive on the property is part of the overall recovery plan for the land.

Located 45 miles from Sacramento, Wakamatsu Farm is a California Registered Historical Landmark and listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Considered a pilgrimage site and recognized by many as the “Japanese American Plymouth Rock,” Wakamatsu Farm holds three distinctive first honors: 1) Site of first Japanese colony in US, 2) Birthplace of first Japanese American and 3) Gravesite of first Japanese immigrant and woman buried in US.

“This has been a farm for the last 150 years,” says Melissa Lobach, Development Manager for the American River Conservancy. “A healthy farm promotes a healthy habitat for wildlife.”

The American River Conservancy protects habitat, native fisheries, scenic vistas, and recreational lands within the upper American River and Cosumnes River watersheds. To date, the nonprofit group has protected over 27,500 acres.

Located in the American River watershed, Wakamatsu is a scenic timeless property with rolling fields that connect to a mosaic of streams, wetlands and oak woodlands. Picturesque farm ponds attract migratory species and sustain abundant yearround wildlife. Perched on hilltops overlooking the farm are giant million dollar homes, reminders of how this landscape could have looked much differently.

The folks from the Conservancy and the farmers they lease to meet regularly, share ideas and support each other. Farmers have the rugged, scrappy, on-the-ground land management experience and the nonprofit is a team of people who can put in the hours to research, find grants and other funding streams. Farmers don’t have the capacity for long hours at the desk and nonprofits don’t have the capacity for long hours in the field.

Together they are a winning match. It’s a constant learning curve of finding the right balance for the land, wildlife and people. And it’s working. As a land trust and non-profit environmental organization, ARC is dedicated to preserving the natural, agricultural and cultural resources of Wakamatsu Farm — in perpetuity. A big part of the equation is engaging with the community here. The group invites visitors to explore the cultural site through public and private tours, classes and field trips at the old farmhouse, grounds and working farm. This fall, ARC will open a brand new education center to show what successful conservation looks like. “I call it our flagship property — to show what the work of conservation is,” says Melissa.

FogDog Farm has been located at American River Conservancy's Wakamatsu Farm since 2019.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

Farmers Kristen Draz and William Holland of FogDog Farm grow organic fruit, vegetables and flowers on 10 acres they lease from ARC.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

Photographs of early residents of the Wakamatsu Tea and Silk Farm Colony can be seen lining the walls inside the restored 1800s Graner farmhouse at American River Conservancy’s Wakamatsu Farm.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

Inside the hoop house at FogDog Farm. The farm grows food for BriarPatch Food Co-op, local restaurants and 100 families who visit their farmstand twice a week.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

Livestock graze on 100 acres managed by Free Hand Farm on land leased by American River Conservancy.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

A working farm

“I really appreciate there is a mutuality to the relationship. I’m learning all the time how to be a better farmer and a better steward,” says William. Patience, observation and time are good teachers.

The idea of perpetuity is important to young farmers like Kristen and William, who know what it’s like to farm with the constant anxiety of land insecurity. The cost of housing and real estate can be daunting. They farmed for several years on Amigo Bob Cantisano’s land on the San Juan Ridge prior to coming home to build a farm at Wakamatsu. Finding a flat 10 acres of farmland in the undulating foothills of Northern California is somewhat of a miracle.

Inside the Graner homestead, an upstairs bedroom has been furnished with 1800s Japanese antiques.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

Now they can take a deep breath and settle in, with the reassurance in knowing this land will be preserved for agriculture forever. They are beginning to establish some roots by planting perennials and investing in other long-term infrastructure. They grow a diversity of plants — up to 40 different nutrient-dense vegetables and 20 different flowers using low-till, ecological growing practices on their year-round farm.

“We’re really proud of what we’ve accomplished here,” says Kristen.

Across the street, the Conservancy also leases 100 acres of livestock pasture to Free Hand Farm specializing in GMOfree, soy-free pastured lamb, eggs and a herdshare from their Jersey cows.

In the bigger picture — land trusts across the state are rich in property and own acres and acres of farmland. American River Conservancy hopes to serve as a model for other land trusts in the state. The partnerships happening at Wakamatsu and recently between Mountain Bounty Farm and Bear Yuba Land Trust in Nevada County, a project BriarPatch is actively supporting, could offer promise for the future of farming.

“For us the big thing isn’t about making money. Taking care of the land is the most important thing. That’s what we share in common,” says Melissa.

How you can get involved:

This October, tours of the farm will be open to the public as part of the grand opening of the education center. Online ordering and farmstand pickup is available at FogDog Farm every week.

Learn more:

fogdogfarm.com

arconservancy.org

Behind the Graner farmhouse, a Japanese elm or keyaki tree grows, the only plant remaining from the first colonists who arrived at the site in 1869. Colonists brought thousands of agricultural products from Japan, including rice, bamboo, citrus, tea and silk worms. The tree is considered a “champion,” per the California Big Tree Registry.

BY LAURA PETERSEN

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