You Talkin’ Tahini?

f you’ve snacked on a shwarma or munched a meze plate, chances are you’ve enjoyed tahini, a staple of Middle Eastern cuisine. Enjoyed as a condiment, as much as it is used in preparations it could well be considered the “ketchup” of the region.

Gluten-free, vegan, keto and paleo friendly, tahini, or tahina, is simply salt and sesame seeds ground to a paste. It is generally quite thick and oily and must be thinned down with lemon juice or ice water for a saucy, silky texture. Add some chopped garlic and a smidge of parsley for the perfect dressing on everything from eggs to roasted eggplant or as a crudité dip—use more or less liquid depending on your final product.

Soomsoom is sesame in Hebrew

Sesame seeds were cultivated in India 5,000 years ago, and migrated to the Levant region, namely Lebanon, Jordan, Palestine and Israel and Syria, where tahini’s use dates to 3,500 BC.

Tahini terroir is important. The soil the plants are grown in impart not only particular flavor, but nutrients such as magnesium, iron, Vitamins B and E, and especially calcium. It’s also high in fat, adding to its lush, full flavor. The very best sesame seeds, the Humera variety, are considered to come from Ethiopia, and are then shipped to Israel and Turkey for processing.

Tahini can be made with roasted or raw sesame seeds. The roasted variety is a bit nuttier, while the raw is on the slightly more bitter side. In both cases, it should always be rich, hearty and flavorful. Once opened, store in a cool dry place for up to a year. Its oils act as a natural preservative.

Aside from the chickpeas of course, tahini is a standard ingredient in hummus. But, it has lots of other applications too. Try coating your fish filet in tahini; it has a similar effect to a salt bake, creating a crust you can eat with a nice char. Just like peanut butter cuts both ways, tahini also works great in sweet treats as well as savory recipes (try subbing tahini for peanut butter in your satay sauce). Pit Medjool dates, coat in some tahini, then roll in cocoa powder and voilà! Tahini truffles!

A delicious variation you may not see in stores stateside is green tahini. Available at falafel shops in the Middle East, it’s tahini mixed with green herbs like cilantro and parsley for a fresh twist. Give it a try as a delicious addition to your own at-home, out-of-the-box falafel, or as a salad dressing.

Green Tahini

This fresh and bright tahini can be used as a dip or a sauce, depending on how thick or thin you choose to make it. Add additional lemon juice or water to use as a sauce over fish or chicken, or keep it on the thicker side as a veggie dip or sandwich spread.

Makes 1-2 cups

1 cup tahini

3 garlic cloves, crushed

½ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

½ cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley

½ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil

2 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

3 Tbsp olive oil

Blend all ingredients in food processor or blender until mixed and flecks of herbs remain. Add more salt as needed. Pour into bowl, and spoon olive oil over tahini.

Pistachio Halvah

A favorite sweet treat of the Middle East, this tahini-based candy is simple to make and fun to add your own flair to. This recipe uses pistachios, but feel free to add in almonds or walnuts, or dip halvah chunks in chocolate. Makes about 1 1/2 pounds

1 ½ cups well-stirred tahini, room temperature

½ tsp kosher salt

¾ cup pistachios

½ tsp vanilla or almond extract

1 ½ cups honey

Oil a loaf pan. In a medium-sized pot, heat honey to 240º (soft ball stage). Remove from heat. Stir in salt and pistachios. Gently stir in tahini and extract until combined. Pour into loaf pan. Let cool completely, then wrap and refrigerate until firm — at least 24 hours. Once cool, slice or cut into chunks.

Zucchini Hummus

Your tongue will have a hard time telling the difference between this and the standard chickpea-based hummus. Flavor and texture are very similar, and this version is more light and airy. Also a great way to sneak more veggies onto the menu!

Makes about 1 ½ cups

1 cup diced zucchini, peeled

1/3 cup tahini

2-3 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

1-2 cloves garlic, minced

¼ tsp sea salt, or to taste

2 tsp ground cumin

Optional: 1 tsp olive oil (for flavor/texture), plus more for garnish

Optional: Chopped herbs, for garnish

Optional: Crushed red pepper flakes, for garnish

Put ingredients into a mini-chopper or blender, starting with the lower quantities of some of the ingredients (2 Tbsp lemon juice, 1 clove garlic, ¼ tsp salt).

Blend until smooth and creamy. Add more lemon juice/garlic/salt as desired.

Garnish with optional toppings and serve chilled with crackers or veggies.