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I spent time amidst the myriad wonders of Denali National Park. On a tundra tour aboard a converted school bus, I was thrilled to spot grizzlies, doll sheep, Arctic ground squirrels, and big caribou, most of them close-up to the side of the vehicle. On a flight-seeing excursion, we zoomed so close to the summit of that namesake mountain. The snowy peak, at 20,310 feet, felt like it existed in a whole different, frozen universe.

And soon enough, I arrived in Fairbanks, the end of my journey. I climbed up to the fourth deck of the Riverboat Discovery, a classic stern-wheeler. I relaxed as it rolled through the town, down two different rivers, the Chena and the Tanana, and out into the woods.

The afternoon voyage included an impressive kayak demonstration by an indigenous paddler, as well as a show flight by a sea plane. A guide on board chatted with the pilot, broadcasting the conversation for all of us to hear. Then he did the same with a fisher, who explained how she smokes and dries salmon, a true Alaskan treat. Finally, we disembarked at an Athabaskan village.

I strolled through, finding a fenced off area with sled dogs. The adorable Alaskan huskies strode along the perimeter, hopping up, tails wagging, to greet those who came to see them. Chatting with their handler, I learned about the young woman’s passion for the canines, and for racing. She gave up everything to do this, to live here, amidst all this beauty, with the goal of competing in some of the state’s most iconic contests, including the Iditarod. Sailing back to town on the Discovery, that huge wheel on the stern churning away, it’s a reality that just starts to sink in. This state, the Last Frontier—it isn’t just the massive size. It’s also the depth. A place so stunning, it gets into your bones, and it stays with you afterward. Drawing you back, always with more to explore. •