FLYING COLORS
Inspiration for next saree collection of Ethicus.
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Table Of Contents • Synopsis | 4
• Compilation Of Birds Of Western Ghats | 24
• Ethicus | 6
• Bird And Color Selection Process | 38 - Autumn Winter 2016-17 - Spring Summer 2017 - Final Colors
• The Cotton Story | 8
- What Is Extra Long Staple Cotton - How It Started... - Birth Of Suvin Cotton - Appachi Suvin - Innovative Approach To Quality Sourcing - A Sustainable Social Enterprice - Suvin Cotton For Wills Lifestyle
• Inspiration | 16
- Project Brief - Western Ghats - Outstanding Universal Value
• Birds | 18
- Why Do Birds Matter? - How Are Birds So Colorful
• Texture | 86
- Texture Exploration - TextureSamples - Double Cloth
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Organic Cotton Chiffon | 92
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Saree Blouse | 98
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Bibliography | 106
- Chiffon Properties - Yarn Twist
- Sketch Explorations
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Synopsis This document is a research work done as a part of eight week internship at Ethicus. Ethicus is a brand promoting ethical and sustainable fashion, based in Pollachi, Tamil Nadu. The research is for the next saree collection of Ethicus which is inspired by the birds of Western Ghats. To promote the goodness of conservation of wildlife for the eco-system and to spread awareness about the endemic bird species of Anaimalai hills and Western Ghats, inspiration for the next collection of Ethicus is the colorful birds of Pollachi and the surrounding mountain-range amidest where the Ethicus Studio is based. A compilation of Birds of Western Ghats is presented in this document. These birds are then classified into several categories according to their colors and based on this classification a collection of saris is to be designed.
Nilgiris, a part of Western Ghats at Masinangudi, Tamil Nadu (Wikipedia)
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Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary and National Parkis located in Anamalai Tiger Reserve. (C Fotografia)
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Ethicus Ethicus is the in-house brand of “Appachi”, a window to reach out to the final consumer. Launched in 2009, Ethicus is “India’s First Ethical Fashion Brand”. Ethicus has established 42 handlooms, where they design and weave world’s most exclusive fabrics, all under one roof. Traditional artisans produce the most exquisite and fine hand-made textiles that are appreciated by a growing number of loyal customers in India and abroad. Ethicus has not only established its own unique identity, but also ensures that people involved in its value chain, get their due recognition and adequate reward. Products of Ethicus includes handcrafted sarees, fine scarves, women & infant garments and a Bed & bath range. All Ethicus value addition chain adheres to the ethical business practices to ensure that the cotton farmers, weavers, workforce and the end users benefit from the same. Ethicus is truly a “Farm to Fashion” story that connects everyone in the value chain, from the farmer, right up to the end consumer.
Reeled Bobins Soaked In Water To Be Woven As Weft
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Ethicus Studio In Pollachi, Tamil Nadu
Loom set-up inside Ethicus Studio
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The Cotton Story What Is Extra Long Staple Cotton? A species of cotton plant, Gossypium barbadense, which generally has a staple of at least 13/8� or longer is called the extra long staple (ELS) cotton, and also known as sea island cotton. Varieties of ELS cotton include American Pima, Egyptian Giza, Indian Suvin, Chinese xinjiang, Sudanese Barakat, and Russian Tonkovoloknistyi. It is a tropical, frost-sensitive perennial plant that produces yellow flowers and has black seeds. It grows as a small, bushy tree and yields cotton with unusually long, silky fibers. To grow, it requires full sun and high humidity and rainfall. How It Started‌ In about 1786, planting of Sea Island cotton began in the former British North American colonies, on the Sea Islands of South Carolina and Georgia, when cotton planters were brought over from Barbados. Among the earliest planters of Sea Island cotton in America was an Englishman, Francis Levett, who later fled his Georgia plantation at the outbreak of the American Revolution and went to the Bahamas, where he attempted to introduce cotton production, but failed. Sea Island cotton commanded the highest price of all the cottons, due to its long staple (1.5 to 2.5 inches, 35 to 60 mm) and its silky texture; it was used for the finest cotton counts and often mixed with silk.
A Blooming Suvin Cotton Bud
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Birth Of Suvin Cotton In 1492, Columbus took the longest cotton from the Caribbean Islands and introduced it to the world as “The Sea Island Cotton”. The Americans and Egyptians adapted it between the 17th and 18th century. St. Vincent (V135), a Sea Island cotton, was adapted in India and released as “SUVIN” in 1974. Suvin is a fascinating story of how a wonder fiber, that had its origins thousands of miles away, came to India a century ago to capture the imagination of a nation. With 2.7 to 3.1 mic and 38 to 40 mm in length, it is the finest and longest staple cotton in the world, making it the only commercially available fiber, with spin ability of 300s Ne count and above. Suvin is truly the Jewel in the Indian Cotton Crown.
Organic Cotton Farming In The Farms Of Kabini, Karnataka
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Appachi Suvin Appachi has mastered the art of growing and ginning of unadulterated, contamination free and rupture free Suvin, for over 4 decades. The Appachi Eco-logic Project is bringing together farmers of the Kabini region, encouraging them to grow traditional varieties of cotton and helping them to convert from genetically modified cotton to growing environmentally friendly Eco-Logic cotton, thereby eliminating harmful pesticides and insecticides helping to revrse the damage done to water resources and animal life in the region. The project also educates farmers in traditional and scientific methods of growing sustainable and high quality cotton consistently. Based in Pollachi, Appachi Eco-Logic Cotton Private Limited is an organic cotton company that promotes inclusive growth in its Farm to Fashion value chain. The company, led by its promoters, Mani Chinnaswamy and Vijayalakshmi Nachiar, has successfully integrated 2,000 farmers spread across 2,000 acres into the organic project in the endangered ecology of the Kabini Reservoir region. The group has been involved in cotton trading for more than 6 decades and is well known for the Extra Long Staple (ELS) Cotton and Suvin. With Mani’s extensive work with small land holder farmers, the company was the first to introduce cotton contract farming in the region along with crop insurance for farmers. Appachi Cottons has also improved farmers’ livelihood by providing non-BT seeds, sanitation and access to education.
Unadultrated, Contamination-Free Suvin Cotton Bud
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Innovative Approach To Sourcing Quality Cotton! Appachi’s formula for Cotton contract farming is an innovative initiative in the annals of Indian agriculture in general and the country’s cotton cultivation, in particular. This backward integration initiative helped in ethical sourcing of high quality cotton that satisfies the requirements of our quality discerning clients. Collecting cotton at source brings in a high degree of transparency & traceability right up to the farmer who produced it. Further it has an ethical & holistic approach that can be replicated season-afterseason.
Farmer Working In The Cotton Farm At Kabini
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A Sustainable Social Enterprise Social Appachi has been promoting Eco-logic Cotton Contract Farming in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka since 2005. Over 750 hectares of land bordering the fringes of forest reserve, 1200 small holder farmers, households, 100s of tailors and handloom weavers have benefited through the project. The journey connects farmers, ginners, spinners, artisans, the textile value chain and finally the consumers. Nachiar Vidyalayam, a holistic school run by Appachi, educates around 850 rural children providing quality education as a CSR activity.
Environmental Appachi’s value chain stretches from Kabini in Karnataka to Pollachi in Tamilnadu. Both are integral parts of the UNESCO-recognized world heritage site. The area is one of the richest bio-diversity hot spots on the Earth. Appachi strictly adhere to their ethical sourcing by promoting environmentally sustainable Eco-Logic cotton contract farming and adapting to ethical value addition processes in the region. The growing popularity of their initiative is encouraging more number of farmers to join their project year on year.
Economic Appachi is a unique Farm to Fashion, Inclusive growth-oriented Social Enterprise. Its Pioneering efforts in cotton contract farming, contamination free ginning of exclusive fibers and weaving of exquisite cotton fabrics. This has attracted the attention of many quality discerning cotton consumers right from the Spinning Mills to the top international Fashion houses. The resulting economic growth within the company, in turn, strengthens Appachi’s resolve to create the Social and Environmental impact in their own value chain.
Appachi Suvin With 2.5% Span Length : 38-40 Mm
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Appachi eco-logical cotton currently supplies to:
Indian Mills Raja Palayam mills ltd. Karpagambal mills ltd. Aditya Exports, Erode Acetex, Pollachi DERA BASSI/ Super sales India ltd., Coimbatore International Clients Toyo cotton, Japan Shikibo ltd, Japan Marusan Industry company ltd, Japan Avanti Inc, Japan PhuBai 2 joint stock company, Thailand
Spinning Of Appachi Suvin Cotton
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Appachi Suvin for Wills Lifestyle Recently Appachi Suvin has collaborated with Wills Lifestyle and created a range of formal shirts using the superfine Suvin Cotton yarn of the count 2/140s. Shirts are produced under the brand name ‘Wills Classic Luxuria” and a piece of shirt is priced at around 7,000 rupees. Currently Appachi Suvin has been discussing about collabaration with brands such as Louie Phillip and Van Husen. This adds a Luxurious high-end final product to complete the value chain of Appachi. Indeed this is a crowning glory moment in the history of the company.
Wills Classic Luxuria Formal Shirt Made With 2/140’S Superfine Suvin Cotton
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Packaging Details Of A Wills Lifestyle Formal Shirt Made With Appachi Suvin Cotton
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Inspiration Appachi has been practicing organic cotton cultivation with the farmers of Kabini area of karnataka. The region around Kabini river falls under the UNESCO World Heritage site and it is also a crucial hot-spot of biological diversity in the world. One of the reason for practicing organic farming in this region is for the conservation of natural heritage of Western Ghats. Natural habitat of Western Ghats is home to many exotic bird species. Birds play an important role in maintaining balance between eco systems. Hence, to spread awareness about goodness of conservation of nature and wildlife, birds of Western Ghats has been chosen as inspiration for the next saree collection of Ethicus. Project Brief Project started with the research and compilation of birds of Western Ghats. Then the birds will be categorized in two groups, for winter and summer. This categorization will be purely based on the color of the birds and international trend and color forecast are to be studied for color reference. Then sub-groups of similar looking birds are to be formed under each category, this will help in chosing color palette for a saree. Thus a saree will not necessarily represent one birds but it could be a group of similar looking birds. Ethicus wants to break away from the format of its previous saree collection that has elaborate motif designs and structured pallu layout. This saree collection will be play of colors, experiment of different weave structures, different materials like fine high twisted organic cotton yarn that would create organic cotton chiffon, unlike anything available in the market!
Shola Grasslands and forests in the Kudremukh National Park, Karnataka
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The Western Ghats Older than the Himalaya mountains, the mountain chain of the Western Ghats represents geomorphic features of immense importance with unique biophysical and ecological processes. Western Ghats (also known as Sahyadri) is a mountain range that runs parallel to the western coast of the Indian peninsula.It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the eight “hottest hot-spots� of biological diversity in the world. It is sometimes called the Great Escarpment of India. A total of thirty nine properties including national parks, wildlife sanctuaries and reserve forests were designated as world heritage sites - twenty in Kerala, ten in Karnataka, five in Tamil Nadu and four in Maharashtra. Outstanding Universal Value The Western Ghats contain exceptional levels of plant and animal diversity and endemicity for a continental area. In particular, the level of endemicity for some of the 4-5,000 plant species recorded in the Ghats is very high: of the nearly 650 tree species found in the Western Ghats, 352 (54%) are endemic. The forests of the Western Ghats include some of the best representatives of non equatorial tropical evergreen forests in the world. At least 325 globally threatened (IUCN Red Data List) species occur in the Western Ghats. Animal diversity is also exceptional, with amphibians (up to 179 species, 65% endemic), reptiles (157 species, 62% endemic), and fishes (219 species, 53% endemic).
Top: Tea Plantation In Valparai, Tamil Nadu Bottom:white Fronted Bee-Eaters, Valparai.
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Birds Birds are wherever we are. They are our companions. Birds are mediators between heaven and earth. Once upon a time, When women were birds, There was the simple understanding That to sing at dawn And to sing at dusk Was to heal the world through joy. The birds still remember what we have forgotten, That the world is meant to be celebrated. – Terry Tempest Williams, When Women Were Birds
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
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Why Do Birds Matter?
From Authors To Ornithologists, Avian Enthusiasts Share Their Thoughts. Birds are important because they keep systems in balance: they pollinate plants, disperse seeds, scavenge carcasses and recycle nutrients back into the earth. But they also feed our spirits,marking for us the passage of the seasons, moving us to create art and poetry, inspiring us to flight and reminding us that we are not only on, but of, this earth. —Melanie Driscoll, Director of bird conservation for the Gulf of Mexico and the Mississippi Flyway Immeasurably and profoundly, birds have been a fundamental source of human aesthetics. It’s possible that they taught us to sing. Something within us continues to thrill when they do, and if they ever stopped, we’d find the silence maddening. They’re alsovisually stunning, from a tanager’s or a honeycreeper’s or a sunbird’s brilliance, to a hummingbird’s iridescence, to a lyre-tailed nightjar’s or a quetzal’s or a Indian peacock’s impossible tail feathers, to an Andean cock-of-the-rock’s crest, to the liquid undulations of thousands of black kites flocking above Karachi, to every albatross’s and eagle’s majesty, or to the angelic glide of the red-crowned cranes that inspired art, myth, and metaphysics. —Alan Weisman, Author
European Bee-Eater, Migratory Bird Seen In Tamil Nadu
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How Are Birds So Colourful? Birds have captivated us for time eternal, not only because of their ability to fly, but also because of the colour they add to our lives. Colour in birds is not a simple thing. But rather it is a complex concoction of some very specific recipes. There are two main ingredients that are essential in the making of colour. The first is pigment and the second is keratin. And the ways in which these two fundamental ingredients are added to the colour cooking pot are what produces the final colours that we see. Pigments are relatively simple colour makers. There are three main pigments that give feathers their colours. • Melanin • Carotenoids • Porphyrins
The Red In This Avadavat Is Produced By Carotenoid Pigments And The Black Color, By Melanin
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The first pigment is called melanin and it produces black or dark brown coloration. Melanin is also very strong and is thus often reserved for the flight feathers. White feathers are caused by a lack of pigmentation and are much weaker than black feathers due to the lack of melanin. This might explain why many predominantlywhite bird species have entirely black or black-tipped feathers in their wings. These feathers are exposed to the greatest wear and are required to be stronger than regular feathers.
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The second group of pigments are called carotenoids and they produce red, orange or yellow feathers. Carotenoids are produced by plants. When birds ingest either plant matter or something that has eaten a plant, they also ingest the carotenoids that produce the colors in their feathers. The pink color of flamingoes, for example, is derived from carotenoids found in the crustaceans and algae that the birds sieve from the water.
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The third group of pigments are called porphyrins and these are essentially modified amino acids. Porphyrins can produce red, brown, pink and green colours. This pigment group is the rarest of the three pigment groups and is found in only a handful of bird families.
This Pied Kingfisher Exhibits Melanin Pigmentation (Black) And Lack Of Pigmentation (White)
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Mixtures of pigments can also produce different and unusual colour hues and shades. For example, the dull olive-green colours of certain forest birds is actually a mixture of yellow carotenoid pigments and dark-brown melanin pigments. Then the second main ingredient that produces colour: keratin. Keratin is the tough protein of which feathers are made. It also covers birds’ bills, feet and legs. Keratin is responsible for the iridescent colouring of many spectacular bird species. How keratin produces color is a rather complex process, Keratin produces colour in two main ways: by layering and by scattering.
The Blues And Greens Of This Blue-Tailed Bee-Eater Is Caused By Blue And Green Scattering.
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Layering colours are produced when translucent keratin reflects short wavelengths of colours like blues, violets, purples and greens. The other colors are absorbed by an underlying melanin (black) layer. The ways in which the keratin of the feathers are layered will dictate the colour of the iridescence. Examples of layered colouring include the iridescence of glossy starlings and the speculums or wing patches of many duck species.
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Scattering is produced when the keratin of feathers is interspersed with tiny air pockets within the structure of the feathers themselves. These air pockets and the interspersed keratin scatter blue and green light and produce the shimmering colors of birds like kingfishers, rollers and bee-eaters.
And like any really good dish, there are times when several ingredients need to be mixed together to produce a really good recipe. And both keratin and pigments can be combined to produce certain colours. Birds come in a huge range of colours. The colours can be useful to a bird in two ways. 1. Camouflage colours help to hide the bird, and 2. bright colours identify the bird to others of the same species. Often the male is brightly coloured while the female is camouflaged.
Chestnut-tailed Bee-eater
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Collage Of Endemic Bird Spices Of Anamalai Hills.
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Compilation of Birds of Western Ghats Western Ghats is home to 508 different species of birds. There are around 30 bird species endemic to this region. From the book ‘Birds of the Indian Subcontinent’, some 350 birds seen in Western Ghats have been identified and 209 of them have been documented here. Images of these birds have been taken from the FaceBook page ‘Indian Birds’
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Blue-faced Malkoha
Sirkeer Malkoha
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Southern Coucal
Lesser Coucal
Oriental Scops Owl
Barn Owl
Indian Scops Owl
Brown Hawk Owl
Mottled wood Owl
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Crested Treeswift
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Common Hoopoe
Malabar Trogon
Indian Roller
Strok-billed Kingfisher
White-throated Kingfisher
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Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher
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Common Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher
Black-caped Kingfisher
Blue-eared Kingfisher
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Brown headed Barbet
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Malabar Barbet
Coppersmith Barbet
White cheecked Barbet
Blue-beareded bee eater
Blue-tailed bee eater
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Brown-capped Pygmy
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Lessr yellownape
Yellow-crowned woodpecker
Streak-throated woodpecker
Greater goldenback And 200+ more....
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Bird And Color Selection Process Classification of birds for summer and winter is done based on the colors. A group of 3-4 similar looking birds is formed and from that two major colors, three accent colors and two minor colors have been extracted. Each color-board has seven different colors that represents a particular group of birds. Twelve such groups are made for winter and summer each.
Facing Page Color blankets are made for each of this group of birds. The purpose of these color blankets is to know the possible color combinations with warp and weft interaction. There are two color blankets for each group. Blanket on the left has same color proportion as that of the color-board. Blanket on the right has every color of colorboard in equal amount.
Additional Colors
Major Color 2
Major Color 1
Accent Colors
Bird 1
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Bird 2
Bird 3
Bird 4
Color-Board
Color blanket with same color proportions as the color-board
Color Balnket A
Color blanket with every color in equal amount
Color Balnket B
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Autumn Winter 2016-17 FALL 2016: A Unity of Strength, Confidence and Complexity The desire for tranquility, strength, and optimism have inspired a Fall 2016 color palette that is led by the Blue family. Blue skies represent constancy as they are always above us. Grays give a feeling of stability, Red tones invite confidence and warmth, while the hot Pinkish Purples and Spicy Mustard Yellows suggest a touch of the exotic. Leatrice Eiseman Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute™
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Autumn Winter 2016-17 color and trend forecast for reference
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Winter Color boards
Selected Birds
W1
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
Malabar Trogon
White-napped Woodpecker
Black-capped Kingfisher
W2
Chestnut-winged Cuckoo
Lesser Coucal
Orange Minivet
Black-headed Munia
W3
Banded-bay Cuckoo
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Red-wattled Lapwing
Egyptian Vulture
Mountain Imperial Pigeon
Winter Color boards
Selected Birds
W4
Asain Fairyblue bird Blue-eared Kingfisher
Knob-billed Duck
Common Hawk Cuckoo
Blue-capped Rockthrush
W5
Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
Common Stonechat
W6
Red-breasted Flycatcher
Black Redstart
Flame-throated Bulbul
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Winter Color boards
Selected Birds
W7
Red-wiskered Bulbul
Purple Swamphen
Purple Sunbird
Southern Coucal
W8
Indian Roller
Blue-faced Malkoha
Asian-paradise flycatcher
W9
Blue-napped Monarch 44
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Grey Hornbill
Nilgiri Blue Robin
Blue-throated Flycatcher
Ultra-marine Flycatcher
Winter Color boards
Selected Birds
W10
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Malabar Parakeet
Green-imperial Pigeon
W11
Cotton pygmy goose
Coppersmith Barbet
W12
Crimson fronted Barbet
Red-napped Ibis
Ashy Prinia
Wynaad Laughingthrush
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Color Board W1
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch
Malabar Trogon
Color Blanket W1A
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White-napped Woodpecker
Black-capped Kingfisher
Color Blanket W1B
Color Board W2
Chestnut-winged Cuckoo
Color Blanket W2A
Lesser Coucal
Orange Minivet
Black-headed Munia
Color Blanket W2B
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Color Board W3
Banded-bay Cuckoo
Color Blanket W3A
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Red-wattled Lapwing
Egyptian Vulture
Color Blanket W3B
Mountain Imperial Pigeon
Color Board W4
Asain Fairyblue bird
Color Blanket W4A
Blue-eared Kingfisher
Knob-billed Duck
Color Blanket W4B
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Color Board W5
Common Hawk Cuckoo
Color Blanket W5A
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Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher
Blue-capped Rockthrush
Color Blanket W5B
Common Stonechat
Color Board W6
Red-breasted Flycatcher
Color Blanket W6A
Black Redstart
Flame-throated Bulbul
Color Blanket W6B
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Color Board W7
Red-wiskered Bulbul
Color Blanket W7A
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Purple Swamphen
Purple Sunbird
Color Blanket W7B
Southern Coucal
Color Board W8
Indian Roller
Color Blanket W8A
Blue-faced Malkoha
Asian-paradise flycatcher
Color Blanket W8B
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Color Board W9
Blue-napped Monarch
Color Blanket W9A
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Grey Hornbill
Nilgiri Blue Robin
Blue-throated Flycatcher
Color Blanket W9B
Ultra-marine Flycatcher
Color Board W10
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Color Blanket W10A
Malabar Parakeet
Green-imperial Pigeon
Color Blanket W10B
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Color Board W11
Cotton pygmy goose
Color Blanket W11A
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Coppersmith Barbet
Color Blanket W11B
Crimson fronted Barbet
Color Board W12
Ashy Prinia
Color Blanket W12A
Wynaad Laughingthrush
Red-napped Ibis
Color Blanket W12B
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12 Winter colorboards together
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W1
W4
W7
W10
W2
W5
W8
W11
W3
W6
W9
W12
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Major Winter colors
Winter colors arranged in gradation in their respective proportion
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Final colors for the winter saree collection:
Black 38
Cadet 18-3812 (close to-48)
Gray 80
Dark Earth 19-1020 TPX (Brown)
Br. White 76 Anokhi Grey 83
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Liberty 19-3850 ()
Eclipse 19-3910 (close to-47)
Azure Blue 17-4139 (close to-48)
Placid Blue 15-3920 TPX (close to-92)
True Blue 19-4057 TPX () Blue Ashes 18-4023 TPX ()
Oasis 16-0540 TPX (Close to-63) Foliage green 18-6018 TPX (Close to-)
Light Grass Green 15-6322 TPX (close to-64)
Deep Claret 19-1840 TPX (close to-20) Bran 17-1336 TPX (Close to-adobe)
Biscay Bay 18-4726TPX (close to-52)
Ocher 14-1036 TPX (5)
Nutmeg 18-1326 TPX (41)
Flame 17-1462 TPX (close to-14)
Molten Lava 18-1555 TPX (Close to-19)
Golden Poppy 16-1462w TPX (Close to-23)
Warm Olive 15-0646 TPX (close to-61) Color codes as mentioned in the Pantone color guide
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Spring Summer 2017 “Influenced by the world of art, new global doors opening and the desire to disconnect from technology and unwind, paying homage to the beauty of natural resources, colors emerging in the Spring collections serve as vehicles that transport wearers to more tranquil, mindful environs which encourage relaxation first, followed by curiosity and exploration.� -Pantone Color Institute
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Spring Summer 2017 color and trend forecast for reference
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Summer Color boards
Selected Birds
S1
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Indian Pitta
European Bee-eater
S2
Great Hornbill
Chestnut-tailed starling
Malabar grey Hornbill
S3
Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse
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Grey Junglefowl
Lesser Whistling duck
Red Spurfowl
Summer Color boards
Selected Birds
S4
Rudy shelduck
Oriental Turtle-neck Dove
Black-hooded Oriole
S5
Oriental-whiteeye
Indian spot-billed Duck
Speckled Woodpecker
Yellow-wattled Lapwing
S6
Brown Headed Barbrt
Streak-throated woodpecker
Lesser Yellow-napped woodpecker
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Summer Color boards
Selected Birds
S7
Green bee-eater
Jerdon’s Leafbird
Golden-fronted Leafbird
S8
Lesser Yellownape Woodpecker
Crimson-backed Sunbird
Emerald dove
S9
Strok-billed kingfisher
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Oriental-dwarf Kingfisher
Asain-Paradise Flycatcher
Summer Color boards
Selected Birds
S10
Blue -bearded bee-eater
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Verditer flycatcher
S11
Common Kingfisher
Loten’s Sunbird
Purple Sunbird
S12
Indian Yellow Tit
Grey-headed Bulbul
Yellow wattled Lapwing
Red-necked Falcon
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Color Board S1
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
Color Blanket S1A
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Indian Pitta
European Bee-eater
Color Blanket S1B
Color Board S2
Great Hornbill
Color Blanket S2A
Chestnut-tailed starling
Malabar grey Hornbill
Color Blanket S2B
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Color Board S3
Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse
Color Blanket S3A
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Grey Junglefowl
Lesser Whistling duck
Color Blanket S3B
Red Spurfowl
Color Board S4
Rudy Blue-tailed shelduck
Color Blanket S4A
Oriental Turtle-neck Dove
Black-hooded Oriole
Color Blanket S4B
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Color Board S5
Oriental-whiteeye
Color Blanket S5A
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Indian spot-billed Duck
Speckled Woodpecker
Color Blanket S5B
Yellow-wattled Lapwing
Color Board S6
Brown Headed Barbrt
Color Blanket S6A
Streak-throated woodpecker
Lesser Yellow-napped woodpecker
Color Blanket S6B
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Color Board S7
Green bee-eater
Color Blanket S7A
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Jerdon’s Leafbird
Color Blanket S7B
Golden-fronted Leafbird
Color Board S8
Lesser Yellownape Woodpecker
Color Blanket S8A
Crimson-backed Sunbird
Emerald dove
Color Blanket S8B
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Color Board S9
Strok-billed kingfisher
Color Blanket S9A
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Oriental-dwarf Kingfisher
Color Blanket S9B
Asain-Paradise Flycatcher
Color Board S10
Blue -bearded bee-eater
Color Blanket S10A
Blue-tailed Bee-eater
Verditer flycatcher
Color Blanket S10B
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Color Board S11
Common Kingfisher
Color Blanket S11A
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Loten’s Sunbird
Purple Sunbird
Color Blanket S11B
Color Board S12
Indian Yellow Tit
Color Blanket S12A
Grey-headed Bulbul
Yellow wattled Lapwing
Red-necked Falcon
Color Blanket S12B
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12 Summer color-boards together
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S1
S4
S7
S10
S2
S5
S8
S11
S3
S6
S9
S12
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Major Summer colors
Summer colors arranged in gradation in their respective proportion
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Final colors for the summer saree collection:
Amazon 18-6024 TPX (57) Black 38
Aruba Blue 13-5313 TPX (55) Dusk Blue 16-4120 TPX (Close to-91,92)
Wild Dove 17-1501 TPX (Close to-80)
Plum Kitten 19-3808 TPX
Bone White 12-0105 TPX (80)
Cactus 18-0130 TPX (Close to-63)
Cyan Blue 16-4529 TPX (Close to-54) Star sapphiire 18-4041TPX close to-(51)
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Citron 130540 TPX (61)
Dark Citron 16-0435 TPX (Close to-59)
Jasmine Green 15-0545 TPX close to-(58)
Blazing Yellow 12-0643 TPX
Arabian Spice 19-1245 TPX close to-(19)
Ginger Snap 17-1418 TPX (42)
Apple Green 15-0543 TPX
Lemonade 12-0721 TPX close to-(62)
Ceylon Yellow 15-0850 TPX (Close to-08)
Pink Flambe 18-2133 TPX (close to-)
Nasturtium 16-4151 TPX (close to-12)
Rose Red 18-1852 TPX (Close to-78)
Adobe 17-1340TPX Porcelain Rose 17-1643 TPX close to-(70)
Purple Magic 19-3540 TPX (close to-34)
Color codes as mentioned in the Pantone color guide
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Winter Colors
Summer Colors
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“Mere color, unspoiled by meaning, and unallied with definite form, can speak to the soul in a thousand different ways. � Oscar Wilde
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Textures Vibrant colors and elaborate contemporary motifs are the identity of an Ethicus saree. One more unique characteristic of ethicus saree is the overall texture in the body. A textureous cotton saree drapes beautifully and feels very different from a normal cotton saree. Different kind of textures are been used in the body of a saree since 2012. For the next saree collection a new set of textures are to be explored. As this coloection is inspired from birds, textures are derived from the feathers, plumage, scales and overall form of a bird.
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Texture Explorations
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Texture Sample 1
X X
X X
X X
Texture Sample 2
X X X X
X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X
X
X X X X
X
X X X X X
X X
X X
Material
Count
Color
Warp
Organic Cotton
100’s
Ethicus no. 3
Weft
Organic Cotton
2/120’s Ethicus no.
Drafting
Straight
Jacquard 120 hooks Shafts
8
Weaving method
1/2 dobby weave
epi ppi
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X X X
X X X
X
X
X
X X X
X X X
X
X
X
X
X X X X X
X X
X
X
X X X
X X X
Material
Count
Color
Warp
Organic Cotton
100’s
Ethicus no. 3
Weft
Organic Cotton
2/120’s Ethicus no.
Drafting
Straight
Jacquard 120 hooks Shafts
8
Weaving method
1/2 dobby weave
epi ppi
X
X X X
X X X X X
X X X X X X
X X
X
X X X X X
X X
X X
X
X
X X
X
X X X
X
X
X
X
X X X
X X
X
Count
Color
Warp
Organic Cotton
100’s
Ethicus no. 3
Weft
Organic Cotton
2/120’s Ethicus no.
Drafting
Straight
Jacquard 120 hooks Shafts
8
Weaving method
1/2 dobby weave
epi
X
ppi
X X
X X X
X X X X X
X
X
X
Material
X X X
X X X
X X
X
X X
X X X X X
X X X
Texture Sample 3
X X X
X X X
X X X
X X X X
X X X
X X X X X X
X
X X
X X X X
X X X 89
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Double Cloth Double weaving is an ancient technique. Double cloth textiles are a characteristic artifact of Pre-Columbian Peru, where they were woven of cotton and alpaca yarns in various combinations. Double cloth or double weave is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. Ethicus has been exploring different kinds of double weave structures possible on a eight shaft 120 hook jacquard handloom.
Dove and Rose jacquard-woven silk and wool double cloth furnishing textile, designed by William Morris in 1879.
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Double Cloth Sample Double Cloth
X X X
X X X
X
X
X X
X X X
X
X
X
Double Cloth Reverse
X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X
X X X X
Material
Count
Color
Warp
Organic Cotton
100’s
Ethicus no. 3
Weft
Organic Cotton
2/120’s Ethicus no.
Drafting
Straight
Jacquard 120 hooks Shafts
8
Weaving method
1/2 dobby weave
epi ppi
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Cotton Chiffon In Finest Organic Cotton Yarn Ethicus sarees of all previous collections are woven in organic cotton of the count 100s in warp and 2/120s in the weft. To introduce a different material for the next collection, Ethicus has been experimenting with weaving fine high twisted yarn of the count 160s on a handloom. This material will be the finest handwoven organic cotton chiffon unlike anything available in the market as of yet! Here, a research on the properties of a chiffon fabric and high twisted yarn has been documented.
Weaver Punit Kumar in Ethicus Studio
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Chiffon Fabric Description
A lightweight, balanced plain weave sheer fabric. The yarns are twisted when woven in an alternating S and Z-twist - this causes the fabric to pucker a little in each direction after woven in, giving it a slightly rough feel and some stretch. Chiffon resembles a fine net or mesh, and hence is semi-transparent. Chiffon is one of the most challenging fabrics to work with.
Fabrication
Chiffon is made from cotton, silk or synthetic fibres, although most usually the fibres are silk or nylon.
Dyes, color treatment and washing characteristics
Only polyester chiffon is difficult to dye - other chiffons take dyes well. However, chiffon being delicate, it should be hand washed gently and air-dried flat.
Draping properties
Chiffon drapes well across the body, although it also retains its own structure to some extent. Silk chiffon drapes better than polyester or cotton chiffon.
Cutting properties
Chiffon is very slippery, making cutting difficult. The tissue paper helps keep the fabric together, with the rough surface of the tissue holding the chiffon in place while it is handled.
Uses worldwide
Chiffon is a popular fabric for evening wear, for example, as an overlay. It is also used in blouses, skirts, pants, overbouses, wraps, ribbons, scarves and lingerie.
The American actress Lillian Gish in morning dress in chiffon and lace in 1922
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Yarn Twist Introduction:
• • • •
Twist is the measure of the spiral turns given to yarn in order to hold the fibres or threads together. Twist is necessary to give a yarn coherence and strength. Twist is primarily instructed in to a staple yarn in order to hold the constituent fibres together, thus giving strength to the yarn. False twist is used in textured yarns.
The effects of the twist are two fold:
1. 2.
As the twist increases, the lateral force holding the fibres together is increased so that more of the fibres are contributed to the overall strength of the yarn. As the twist increases, the angle that the fibres make with the yarn axis increases, so prevents them from developing their maximum strength which occurs when they are oriented in the direction of the applied force.
As a result, at certain point the yarn strength reaches a maximum value after which the strength is reduced as the twist is increased still further (Fig).
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The twist value required for the maximum strength of yarn is higher than the normal use since increased twist also has an effect on other important yarn properties.
•
A small amount of twist is used in continuous filament yarn to keep the filaments together, but as twist is increased the yarn strength decreases below its maximum value.
•
But because of the variability of the individual filament strengths, the initial effect of twist is to support the weaker filaments in the yarn (Fig).
•
A filament yarn will be stronger than the equivalent staple fibre yarn as a comparatively large amount of twist is always needed in a staple yarn. Sometimes intermingling is used instead of twist
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Twist effects on yarn and fabric properties: (a) Handle:
• • • •
As the twist level in a yarn is increased it becomes more compact because the fibres are held more tightly together, so giving a harder feel to the yarn. Because of decrease in the yarn diameter, its covering power is reduced. A fabric made from a high-twist yarn will therefore feel harder and will also be thinner. A fabric produced from a low-twist yarn will have a soft handle but at the same time weaker yarn thus resulting in pilling and low abrasion resistance of fabric.
(b) Moisture absorption:
• • •
High twist holds the fibres tight thus restricting water to enter. Such a high twist yarn is used where a high degree of water repellency is required, e.g. in gabardine fabric. Low twist yarn is used where absorbency is required.
(c) Wearing properties:
• • •
With an increase in twist level wearing properties (abrasion and pilling) are improved. High level of twist helps to resist abrasion as the fibres can’t easily pulled out of the yarn. The same effect also helps to prevent pilling (which result from the entanglement of protruding fibres).
(e) Faults:
•
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Because of level of twist in a yarn can change its diameter and other properties such as absorption; same yarn can change the appearance of a fabric, so giving rise to complaints.
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(d) Aesthetic effects :
• • •
The level of twist in yarn alters its appearance both by changing the thickness and light reflecting properties. Different patterns can be produced in a fabric by using similar yarns but with different twist levels; a shadow stripe can be produced by weaving alternate bands of S and Z twist yarns. Level of twist can also be used to enhance or subdue a twill effect: a Z-twill fabric produced by weaving Z-twist yarns will have enhanced Z-twill effect. Same is the case for S-twill.
Twist Applications:
•
Georgette is made of highly twisted yarn (upto 1000 TPM) by weaving S and Z twisted yarns alternately both in warp and weft direction.
•
Chiffon is made in the same way but yarn is more twisted (up to 2000 TPM) and finer than that used in georgette-Cupramonium rayon is used.
•
Herringbone is made by using yarns of different types and levels of twists.
Level of Twist:
• • •
Twist is usually expressed as the number of turns per unit length, e.g. TPM or TPI. However the ideal amount of twist varies with the yarn thickness i.e., the thinner the yarn, the greater is the amount of twist that has to be inserted to give the same effect. The factor that determines the effectiveness of the twist is the angle that the fibers make with the yarn axis.
Fig shows diagrammatically a fibre taking one full turn of twist in a length of yarn L. the fibre makes an angle with the yarn axis.
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The Evolution Of Saree And The Changing Notion Of Blouse Of all the garments that have emereged from the Indian subcontinent it is the sari with its adaptibility and indefinable amalgam of charm, beauty and ingenuity which rules the supreme. Despite dozens of possible drapes, most wearers adopt the Nivi drape: over the left shoulder and pleated in front. However, one element of the sari appears to be changing enough to merit attention: the humble blouse. “There’s an evolution towards experimentation” says Himanshu Verma, curator of The Saree Festival, Delhi, 2016 and also an ardent wearer of the sari. “Women are now willing to let go of any preconceived notion when thinking of a blouse.” Over the last few seasons, fashion editorials have been featuring all manner of garments as sari blouses: t-shirts, white collared shirts, off-the-rack crop tops, even jackets, and sari wearers are starting to follow. And we’re just at the start of the curve, according to Verma.
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Challenging aesthetics and comfort are key drivers of this shift, though perhaps there has been a serendipitous alignment with fashion trends as well. The crop top trend of 2013 took a few seasons to percolate, but soon became an alternative for many girls looking for a new blouse. It is still early days, says Verma, who believes we are in the “first phase” of experimentation. “I’m curious to see whether we might find some structure, say five years down the line. We might work our way through various ideas to find one that strikes and takes hold. Maybe this whole phase will lead to a new way of wearing blouses that are even more beautiful, and sari-appropriate.” And maybe into new ways of wearing the sari … a shift that is needed in order for it to remain worn, appropriated and accessible in the years to come.
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Blouse designs inspired from the nature of birds...
Blouse with puffy gathered elbow sleeve
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Kaftan blouse with short sleeves for simple organic look
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Kimono sleeve blouse
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When bird becomes a saree...
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Bibliography Books - Birds of the Indian Subcontinent, book by Carol Inskipp, Richard Grimmett, and Tim Inskipp - Saris: Tradition and Beyound, book by Rita Kapur Chisti
Web References Pg 9-12 www.appachicotton.com Pg 17 : whc.unesco.org/en/list/1342 Pg 19: www.audubon.org/magazine/march-april-2013/why-do-birds-matter Pg 20-23 : 10000birds.com/how-do-birds-get-their-color.htm Pg 94, 116 : Pantone Color Institute Pg 147 : www.assertivecreativity.com/fabric-info-and-care-instru/chiffoncharacteristics.pdf and Wikipedia Pg 148-151: NPTEL : Textile Engineering : Theory of yarn structures Pg 152-153 : www.borderandfall.com/journal/saving-sari-one-blouse-time/
Image Sources - All birds’ photographs are from the facebook page ‘Indian Birds’ - Other photos are from the Ethicus Studio’s photo library
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