Oily classic cars at St Donat’s Castle 24th August 2021 by Peter Bush

OILY FEATHERS CLASSIC CARS AT ST.DONAT’S CASTLE 24th August 2021

On an idyllic summer morning, eleven mostly topless cars, and twenty two drivers and their navigators, congregated to collect their route notes and map, for a two and a half hour drive from Chepstow Garden Centre.

A skilful route had been devised by Bill Phillips assisted by his wife Jenny. Without touching the M4, we started by keeping close to the Bristol Channel. We drove along sparsely inhabited flatlands, with closed pubs of yesteryear and horses tethered on roadside common land. Negotiating the Newport ring road, we were delighted to pass under the historic Transporter Bridge, recently closed for major refurbishment, otherwise we would have been on it! Nearing Cardiff outskirts, we were treated to signs warning of Slag Overhead, but not to worry, as the entire works are in demolition mode. This is reminiscent of the Rust Bucket part of the USA, vast corrugated iron buildings being prised apart for scrap, alongside working railway sidings. Onwards past the airport and into lovely countryside again, and after two and a quarter hours the entrance to St. Donat’s Castle quietly emerged on a corner of a leafy lane.

We were welcomed and directed down the long multi-humped, tree-lined drive to our parking area. By now the sun was strong, and shade was scarce for those of us nursing hot running cars with bonnets thrown open. Although Bill’s briefing about the photo shoot was unusually brief, it turned out to be anything but. Instead of all cars lined up with a Castle background, we individually went through the outer Castle Gate, which we learnt had been demolished by a bin lorry, and rebuilt. Then we turned around to have the Portcullis Tower behind us so that Mike Burmester could photograph car, driver and navigator. My offer of a garden kneeler was given short shrift in order to include the top of the Tower by our worthy tall photographer.

Having parked our cars, we entered the impressive castellated outer walls through the substantial Portcullis Tower with a timber portcullis looking ready for action. Our walk went under another tower and then into a small lawned quadrangle bordered with flowers and quaint houses. On entry to the reception hall we were amazed by the height of the ornate ceiling, walk-in fireplace and arches along one side with glass in-filling. We flopped onto the comfortable furniture before following the guide to an immense hall, like a monastic refectory, with a vast inverted birthday cake ceiling high above.

Leaded windows opened onto the wooded area below. Our £13 lunch with its generous portions of homemade lasagne and salads, followed by pear crumble and custard served in ‘draught’ form was fantastic, and everyone spoke highly of such catering. Certainly, it was unbeatable value and quality. Martin, our castle guide then showed us around. He was delightfully informal and engaged with us well.

This is a lived-in Castle as it is occupied by the Atlantic College school. It dates from about 1100 AD and is thought to be Norman in origin. Some ceilings have been transferred from churches; it is in excellent condition. We moved into the Great Hall, the length of a football pitch, with a multi-beamed ceiling the height of a cathedral. It has two walk-in fireplaces and a beautiful light timbered floor. A dais exists at one end. Prize giving in the hall, with teaching staff in academic robes and hordes of parents and friends, would be spectacular. We learnt about the famous US Newspaper Tycoon William Randolph Hearst buying it in the 1930s. He loved lavishing money on the castle, much to its benefit. He brought a considerable show of opulence to the locality as he was chauffeur driven to the local pub in a polished Studebaker. The castle provided lots of local employment at that time of depression.

Martin explained that in earlier times, much of the land in the Watchet area of Somerset had been in the ownership of the Castle family, and that is why the Castle faces the distant Somerset coastline. Upstairs we were impressed by a sprawling library in a vast L-shaped room with ornate ceilings and yet more walk-in fireplaces. Leaded windows look down over the Top Lawn and across the Bristol Channel. Sloping lawns and garden lead down to the sea. We enjoyed the spaciousness of the wonderful Top Lawn and the views across the Channel on this glorious, balmy August afternoon. Some of us went far down the sloping gardens and pool to the sea, enjoying the panorama of that distant coast to which we had soon to return.

We had all enjoyed St. Donat’s Castle immensely and clambered on board our topless jalopies to enjoy our good fortune of the weather, the venue and even having the sun behind us to drive back. The Castle had been a most unusual outing for us with its 800 year old history and we appreciated Bill Phillip’s excellent selection.

Peter Bush