ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
TROPER LAUNNA 2102 — 1102
CHAIRMAN’S LETTER
THIS year has seen the British Fashion Council focus on Development of key initiatives and growth. The British Fashion Council thanks its sponsors, partners, patrons, ambassadors, the Mayor of London, UK Trade and Investment (UKTI), European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) and Arts Council for their support this year. London Fashion Week has continued to go from strength to strength. In July 2011, Vodafone signed a three year deal to be Principal Sponsor of London Fashion Week and title sponsor of Vodafone London Fashion Weekend, commencing February 2012. Canon, a long term partner of London Fashion Week has now taken on a broader role across numerous initiatives, becoming the British Fashion Council’s official imaging partner. The content of London Fashion Week has been enhanced through focusing on designer showcasing initiatives, digital and creative partnerships. This year saw the introduction of Rock Vault, curated by Stephen Webster and sponsored by the International Palladium Board, showcasing British fine jewellery designers. Fash/on Film, sponsored by River Island, has brought together a panel of film and fashion experts to curate a fashion film festival at the heart of London Fashion Week and commission new works between young designers and film-makers throughout the year. The International Fashion Showcase was launched as a new partnership between the British Fashion Council and British Council to encourage international embassies to showcase the best of their emerging talent in innovative ways during London Fashion Week in February each year.
During his speech, marking TOPSHOP’s 10 year annniversary of supporting NEWGEN, Sir Philip announced a further 10 years of support for the British Fashion Council’s landmark new talent identification, support and showcasing initiative. As part of the British Fashion Council’s 2012 programme, Stella McCartney and McQ were invited to show during London Fashion Week. Both shows exceeded all expectations, through experiential shows, demonstrating their incredible creativity in London, their home city. Growing international profile was a key objective for the year. Through London Show Rooms, the British Fashion Council took designers to Paris, Los Angeles, New York and Hong Kong, generating media coverage, supporting development of order books and creating partnerships in key markets. British Fashion Awards 2011, re-affirmed the event as the industry’s celebration of excellence. Sarah Burton OBE, was named Designer of the Year and Sir Paul Smith was honoured with the Award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design. In January 2012, the British Fashion Council announced the launch of London Collections: Men, a standalone showcase for British menswear that will take place for the first time in June. The year ahead will see a dedicated programme for 2012, The London Olympics and the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee year, the British Fashion Council aims to build on our successes providing new opportunities to support and promote British designers to a global audience. Harold Tillman CBE Chairman
At the opening press conference of London Fashion Week February 2012, Sir Philip Green joined us to announce a new report ‘The Future of Fashion – Strategic Considerations for Growth’, highlighting key challenges that lay ahead for the sector.
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
CONTENTS
AprIL 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW May 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW Mission Statement JunE 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW British Fashion Council Overview JulY 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW British Fashion Council Initiatives AugUST 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW Designer Support
Introduction NEWGEN NEWGEN MEN BFC Fashion Trust BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad Headonism Estethica Fashion Forward BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund London Show Rooms FASH/on Film Rock Vault
27 28 29 29 30 30 30 30 31 32 33 33
SepTEMBER 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW Events & Celebrations
Introduction London Fashion Week Vodafone London Fashion Weekend Fashion 2012 Britain Creates 2012 BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation British Fashion Awards
41 42 43 43 44 44 45
OctOBER 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW Education & Industry INSIGHT
Introduction BFC Colleges Council colleges council Annual Programme Business Support Business Support Network London Fashion Showcasing Fund Business support seminars Market Reports Future of Fashion Road Map
November 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW December 2011 / YEAR IN VIEW Promoting / British fashion January 2012 / YEAR IN VIEW What Else DO WE DO? February 2012 / YEAR IN VIEW British fashion council team March 2012 / YEAR IN VIEW
51 52 52 54 54 54 55 55 55
03 07 11 13 17 19 21 23 27
35 41
47 51
57 61 65 69 73 77 81 83
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BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
YEAR IN VIEW
APRIL / 2011
Apr BFC/ELLE TALENT LAUNCH PAD REtailer EVENT / HERVIA BAZAAR / Stanwells /
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April / 2011
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01 — 03 Hervia bazaar, Manchester 04 Stanwells
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MAY / 2011
May 0 4
COLLEGES council GRADUATE PREVIEW DAY ALL PARTY PARLIAMENTARY GROUP FOR FASHION AND TEXTILES / BURBERRY HQ /
ESTETHICA 5TH BIRTHDAY
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May / 2011
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01 COLLEGES COUNCIL Graduate Preview Day 02 ESTETHICA 5th year 03 All Parliamentary Group Conference
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MISSION STATEMENT
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The British Fashion Council supports , promotes and nurtures British fashion talent to a global market. We are committed to developing excellence and growth in a sector that is a significant contributor to the British economy. We PROMOTE THIS through globally recognised events including London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Awards; a designer support pathway that includes NEWGEN and the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund; and an integrated global communications strategy which embraces creativity and innovation to secure London’s and the UK’s position as a global leader in fashion. 1
2
3
[1] Designer Support — Pg 27 [2] EventS & Celebration — Pg 41 [3] Education & Industry Insight — Pg 51
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YEAR IN VIEW
JUNE / 2011
June NEWGEN & NEWGEN MEN ANNOUNCEMENT HILARY ALEXANDER CELEBRATION WOMEN’S TENNIS ASSOCIATION ANNUAL PRE-WIMBLEDON PARTY HEADONISM AT ROYAL ASCOT LONDON SHOW ROOMS MEN PARIS / LE LOFT PARIS /
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June / 2011
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01 Hilary Alexander celebration 02 NEWGEN and newgen Men Announcement 03 headonism at royal Ascot 04 WTA Tour Pre Wimbledon Party 05 London Show Rooms MEN PARIS
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BFC OVERVIEW
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OVERVIEW
FUNDING
BUSINESS & CULTURAL AMBASSADORS
The BFC is funded by industry patrons and commercial partners. It has received grant support from the London Development Agency, the Mayor of London and recently the Greater London Authority, to enable it to strengthen the content and international profile of London Fashion Week and the profile and impact of London’s designers.
The BFC Ambassador programme aims to develop a strong network of business and cultural ambassadors to support the BFC’s strategic goals. Samantha Cameron, Sarah Mower MBE and Alison Edmonds have supported the BFC over the last 2 years, giving freely of their time to support the sector. This year Alexa Chung, Laura Bailey and Poppy Delevingne have helped to develop a cultural programme.
Funding from UK Trade and Investment (UKTI) supports specific initiatives that directly deliver increased opportunities for British businesses to grow. Since July 2011, the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) Programme 2007-2013 has supported London Show Rooms, the BFC’s business support seminars and digital showcasing. The BFC prides itself in developing long term partnerships with Commercial Partners for its events and initiatives, delivering both opportunities for designers and partners alike. The BFC thanks all of its patrons, partners and sponsors who have helped make the recent growth and profile of the designer sector possible. London Fashion Week now draws more influential audiences of fashion media and designer fashion retailers to the capital than ever before to see British designer businesses. Media coverage of London Fashion Week exceeds £100m each season demonstrating the global reach of the event and its role in promoting British creativity and London as a creative capital.
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Samantha Cameron / BFC Ambassador Sarah Mower / Ambassador for Emerging Talent Alison Edmonds / LA Ambassador Alexa Chung / Style Ambassador Laura Bailey / Cultural Ambassador Poppy Delevingne / Young Ambassador PATRONS Arcadia Group Aquascutum Aurora Fashions Bicester Village Burberry Condé Nast Publishing Debenhams GAP Harrods Hearst Magazines UK HSBC House of Fraser Issa London Jaeger John Lewis Partnership Labelux Group LF Europe Marks & Spencer Mayor of London Mulberry Next Radley & Co River Island Selfridges Tesco
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BFC OVERVIEW
YEAR IN VIEW
OVERVIEW
JULY / 2011
GOVERNANCE An Executive Board was established in 2009 with the appointment of the organisation’s first full-time management team. The Executive Board briefs an industry Advisory Board quarterly on strategy, achievements and challenges. The Advisory Board comprises BFC committee chairs, representatives from education, industry patrons and corporate partners who give freely of their time and expertise to help develop a focused programme of promotion and support for leading British designer businesses. ADVISORY Board Anne Tyrrell Designs Anne Tyrrell MBE Aurora Mike Shearwood / CEO Bally UK for Labelux Group Victoria Hennessey / Vice President Consumer Marketing Bicester Village Tamara Benjamin / PR Director British Fashion Council Sarah Mower MBE / Ambassador for Emerging Talent Burberry Sarah Manley / Chief Marketing Officer Central Saint Martins Louise Wilson OBE / MA Course Director Daily Telegraph Lisa Armstrong / Fashion Director Hilary Alexander Debenhams Karen Peacock / Design Director GAP Fiona Collins / PR Director, Europe Harper’s Bazaar Lucy Yeomans / Editor (until April 2012) Jenny Dickinson / Acting Editor Harrods Marigay McKee / Chief Merchant Hearst Magazines UK Meribeth Parker / Group Publishing Director House of Fraser Marie Jones / Design Director HSBC Carol Bagnald / Regional Director
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ISSA London Camilla Fayed / Chairwoman John Lewis Partnership Peter Ruis / Director of Buying for Fashion LF Europe Spencer Fung / President London College of Fashion Frances Corner OBE / Head of College London Evening Standard Maurice Mullen / Head of Fashion Marks and Spencer Tania Littlehales / Head of Product PR Matthew Williamson Joseph Velosa / Chief Executive Mayor of London Justine Simons / Head of Culture Strategy Mulberry Vanessa Lunt / Communications Director Radley & Co. Lorraine Pringle / Brand Director River Island Josie Roscop / Head of Marketing Royal College of Art Wendy Dagworthy MBE / Head of School Selfridges Sophie Hedley / Communications Director Tesco Clothing Jan Marchant / Category Director TOPSHOP Mary Homer / Managing Director Vogue Stephen Quinn / Publishing Director Alexandra Shulman OBE / Editor
July PORT ELIOT festival BFC FUTURE VINTAGE SHOW CHINA/BRITAIN FASHION ALLIANCE BFC FASHION INSIDERS RECEPTION / DORCHESTER HOTEL /
Executive Board Harold Tillman CBE / Chairman Caroline Rush / Chief Executive Simon Ward / Chief Operating Officer Anya Hindmarch MBE / Non-Executive Director Christopher Inman OBE / Treasurer “I would like to take this opportunity to thank Harold Tillman CBE, Chris Inman OBE and Anya Hindmarch MBE for their valuable time and expertise which they generously give on a pro bono basis. Thank you.” Caroline Rush
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YEAR IN VIEW
BFC INITIATIVES
JuLY / 2011 01 Port Eliot 02 China/Britain Alliance EVENTS & CELEBRATIONS
EDuCATION & INDuSTRY INSIgHT
01
DESIgNER SuppORT
MARKET REpORTS BuSINESS SuppORT NETWORK
02
BFC pRINCESS OF WALES CHARITABLE TRuST
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YEAR IN VIEW
AUGUST / 2011
Aug SUMMER
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YEAR IN VIEW
YEAR IN VIEW
August / 2011
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YEAR IN VIEW
DESIGNER SUPPORT
Designer Support The British Fashion Council has strong values. We focus upon key areas which help create a robust framework that supports the fashion community. Designer Support is an area we are committed to, championing designers to innovate and commercialise their creativity. This section highlights the great work that we are involved in.
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DESIGNER SUPPORT
NEWGEN In 1993 the British Fashion Council created New Generation (NEWGEN), one of the world’s most internationally recognised talent identification schemes. NEWGEN continues to showcase and promote new designer businesses. The scheme is sponsored by Topshop who have been supporters since 2001. NEWGEN offers catwalk designers financial support towards their show costs and the opportunity to use the BFC Catwalk Show Space. Others receive sponsored presentation or exhibition space to showcase their collections, offering an important introduction for young UK-based designers to influential press and buyers from around the world. NEWGEN also provides business and mentoring support through the BFC in partnership with Shoosmiths, Baker Tilley and Lloyds TSB. Since NEWGEN’s inception, its roll call includes Alexander McQueen, Boudicca, Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald, Lara Bohinc, Antonio Berardi, Ann-Louise Roswald and more recently Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff. Internationally recognised as a prestigious showcase of the best up-and-coming British fashion talent. Recipients are selected by a panel of media and buying experts chaired by Sarah Mower MBE, the BFC’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent. Catwalk designers receive financial awards up to £10,000 to cover their show costs, designers exhibiting receive sponsored show space and all designers selected have access to business support mentoring. This year saw TOPSHOP celebrate their 10th anniversary of sponsoring the scheme at London Fashion Week. During a press conference at the opening of London Fashion Week February 2012, Sir Philip Green commited a further ten years support for NEWGEN.
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WINNERS 2011 / 2012 — Christopher Raeburn Craig Lawrence David Koma Dominic Jones Jewellery Felicity Brown Holly Fulton Huishan Zhang J.JS Lee J.W.Anderson James Long Jordan Askill Louise Gray Lucas Nascimento Michael van der Ham Nasir Mazhar Palmer Harding Simone Rocha Sister By Sibling Thomas Tait Tim Soar NEWGEN PANEL 2011 / 2012 — Sarah Mower MBE / BFC Ambassador of Emerging Talent (Chair) Alexander Fury / Showstudio Emma Elwick-Bates / Vogue Holli Rogers / Net-a-Porter Kate Phelan / TOPSHOP Laura Burlington / Fashion Consultant Madelaine Evans / TOPSHOP Melanie Rickey / Grazia Rebecca Lowthorpe / ELLE Ruth Chapman / Matches Sophia Neophitou / 10 Magazine Yeda Yun / Stella McCartney BFC Representatives: Louise Carter / Katie Bain / David Watts
DESIGNER SUPPORT
NEWGEN men
BFC FASHION TRUST
In August 2009, the BFC launched NEWGEN MEN for emerging menswear designers in the UK to assist in showcasing their collections and to receive business mentoring and support. This intiative assists the BFC in promoting the breadth of British menswear talent internationally. NEWGEN MEN is sponsored by TOPMAN. Designers are selected by a menswear committee of leading editors and buyers.
The BFC Fashion Trust was founded by the British Fashion Council in February 2011 to further support British designers in becoming global brands. The BFC Fashion Trust launched in the US and Asia in October 2011.
WINNERS — Bunney Christopher Raeburn Christopher Shannon Dr Noki James Long J.W.Anderson Katie Eary Lou Dalton Martine Rose Matthew Miller New Power Studio Sibling NEWGEN MEN PANEL — Simon Ward / British Fashion Council, Chief Operating Officer (Chair) Alex Bilmes / Esquire Ben Reardon / GQ Style Charlie Porter / Fantastic Man Gordon Richardson / TOPMAN Jason Griffith / TOPMAN Lulu Kennedy MBE / MAN Patrick Grant / E. Tautz Simon Chilvers / The Guardian Stephen Ayres / Liberty Tim Blanks / Style.com BFC Representatives: Anna Orsini / Katie Bain
The BFC Fashion Trust has three key objectives: — To create a business support and mentoring programme for designers — To build a global network of advisors for the designers to access — A unique, fashion-insider, annual programme of events created for BFC Fashion Trust members internationally The vital donations made by BFC Fashion Trust members are invested back into designer businesses in areas which will have the most significant impact, for example trade marking, business strategy and brand development. Kim Hersov and Heather Kerzner, co-chairs of the BFC Fashion Trust, Jessica de Rothschild, Head of the BFC Fashion Trust US, and Yana Peel, Head of the BFC Fashion Trust Hong Kong help build the global network of members and advisors. The BFC Fashion Trust will formally be launched in August 2012. The BFC would like to thank Smashbox Studios for sponsoring the Fashion Trust Launch party in Los Angeles, in March 2012.
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DESIGNER SUPPORT
DESIGNER SUPPORT
BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad
Estethica
BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND
The BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad aims to support selected young designers to grow their businesses through marketing and PR opportunities and helping them to build relationships with British retailers, brand development experts and fashion influencers.
Estethica aims to ensure the UK leads the world in eco sustainable fashion. Launched 6 years ago, Monsoon have been great sponsors of this initiative and have helped to make it the recognised platform that it is today. Estethica is co-curated by Anna Orsini, BFC Strategic Consultant, Orsola de Castro and Filippo Ricci of the label ‘From Somewhere’.
Each year the charity BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund offers a significant financial award that enables a designer to considerably increase their profile as a creative British business, to develop the infrastructure of their company, generating employment and with the assistance of high level mentoring, making the transition from a developing creative business to a global fashion brand.
We work with retailers to select the talent that they want to stock and promote the winning designers’ collections to their local audiences. Retail Partners — Anna / Cricket / Hervia Bazaar / Stanwells / Square ELLE magazine gives the winning designers access to the industry’s top stylists, photographers and creative directors and supports the initiative with extensive editorial and promotional support. Selected DESIGNERS — Claudia Catzeflis / Saloni / Sophie Hulme / Vassilisa
Headonism
Estethica has evolved to become the leading fashion initiative to support sustainability. The success of this initiative, the strongest of its kind, is evident in its rapid growth. Estethica labels this year included Ada Zanditon, Aiste Nesterovaite, Charini, Dr.Noki, Reclaim To Wear, Henrietta Ludgate, Joanna Cave, Junky Styling, Makepiece, Monsoon, Pachacuti, The North Circular, Victim Fashion Street. Estethica provides a platform to showcase the very best in ethical initiatives including Ethical Justice Foundation, Ethical Fashion Forum, and selected projects from the Centre for Sustainable Fashion. Estethica has also embarked on a successful student and young graduates programme, creating synergies between experienced designers and the new generation. Projects such as Reclaim To Wear with Central St Martins and Dr Noki’s collaboration with Kingston University, both exhibited in February 12, will become core to Estethica’s future activities.
Headonism, curated by Stephen Jones, celebrates the new wave of emerging London milliners, which showcased at London Fashion Week and provides a platform for promotion throughout the year.
FASHION FORWARD
Headonism was launched during the BFC’s 25 year celebrations by the Mayor of London and is supported by Royal Ascot. Selected emerging designers are given the opportunity to showcase collections at the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot. This partnership reflects the British Fashion Council’s aim to support emerging British design talent, providing an additional showcasing opportunity to an audience of race goers from around the world.
Fashion Forward, supported by the Mayor of London, was established in 2006 to provide funding to talented emerging British designers to show on schedule alongside structured mentoring support to help designers to develop their businesses in London.
Selected Designers — Charlie le Mindu / J. Smith Esquire / Noel Stewart / Piers Atkinson / William Chambers
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In 2012 the award was opened up to allow menswear designers to apply, the first Menswear Designer awarded Fashion Forward support was James Long alongside the three new womenswear designers: Mary Katrantzou, Louise Gray and House of Holland.
Jonathan Saunders was announced as the 2012 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund winner at a cocktail reception hosted by Alexandra Shulman OBE and Harold Tillman CBE at Nobu Mayfair. In May 2011, Erdem, the inaugural winner of the Fund reported significant progress in business development within the first year of winning the award. He not only developed his business in terms of team, orders and studio space, but also broadened his professional network through the mentoring committee which has agreed to continue to support where possible for a further six months. Marigay McKee leads on co-ordination of the mentoring panel and plays a key role in supporting all shortlisted designers. HSBC ensured that all shortlisted designers had the opportunity to have an HSBC mentor for the year to build greater understanding of what is required when applying for credit and how to build strong relationships with banking partners.
2012 SHORTLISTED DESIGNERS — Peter Pilotto / Nicholas Kirkwood / Richard Nicoll / Marios Schwab / Meadham Kirchhoff / Zoe Jordan / Mary Katrantzou / Roksanda Ilincic 2012 WINNER — Jonathan Saunders The committee and judging panel — Alexandra Shulman OBE / Vogue UK (Chair) — Carol Bagnald / HSBC Caroline Rush / British Fashion Council Glynn Chilton / Paul Smith James Tarbuck / Toni&Guy Jan Marchant / Clothing at Tesco Joan Burstein CBE / Browns Karen Peacock / Debenhams Kate Bostock / Marks & Spencer Marigay McKee / Harrods Mary Homer / Topshop Myf Ryan / Westfield Shopping Town Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck / Toni&Guy Samantha Cameron / British Fashion Council Ambassador Sarah Manley / Burberry Susanne Tide-Frater / Brand Consultant Tony Yusuf / Hardy Amies (LF Europe) BFC would like to thank sponsors of the Fund — Aquascutum / Burberry / Clothing at Tesco / Debenhams / Harrods / HSBC / Jaeger / LF Europe / Marks & Spencer / Paul Smith / TONI&GUY / TOPSHOP / VOGUE / Westfield Shopping Towns 2011 Shortlisted Designers — Charlotte Olympia / Christopher Kane / E.Tautz / Jonathan Saunders / Nicholas Kirkwood / OSMAN / Peter Pilotto / Richard Nicoll Charity number: 1139079 BFCVDFF Limited
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DESIGNER SUPPORT
LONDON SHOW ROOMS London Show Rooms provides a unique opportunity for emerging British designers to promote themselves outside London. The pop-up showroom is a strategic element of the British Fashion Council’s support, mentoring and showcasing pathway. A project aimed at boosting British designer exports, London Show Rooms has grown to include show rooms for women and menswear collections in Paris, New York,Hong Kong and Los Angeles with plans for expansion into mainland China later in the year. Launched in 2008, the project is co-directed by Anna Orsini and Barbara Grispini for the British Fashion Council with the support of the BFC’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent, Sarah Mower MBE. The showroom is a partially subsidised space for designers to sell their collections with the support of international marketing, media and sales advisers. London Show Rooms are supported by the European Regional Development Fund and UK Trade and Investment (that in London is partially funded by the European Regional Development Fund). In 2011– 2012, the following designers have participated in the London Show Rooms Initiative: AGI & SAM / BAARTMANS AND SIEGEL / BERNSTOCK SPEIRS / BUNNEY / CASSETTE PLAYA / CHRISTOPHER KANE / CHRISTOPHER KANE MENS / CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN / DAVID KOMA / CHRISTOPHER SHANNON / CRAIG LAWRENCE / DOMINIC JONES / DOMINIC JONES JEWELLERY / E.TAUTZ / ELLIOT ATKINSON / ERDEM / J. JS LEE / FANNIE SCHIAVONI / FASHION EAST / JAMES LONG / FELICITY BROWN / H by HARRIS / HOLLY FULTON / J.W.ANDERSON / JONATHAN SAUNDERS / JORDAN ASKILL / JUNKY STYLING / KATIE EARY / KTZ / LEE ROACH / LOU DALTON / LOUISE GRAY / LUCAS NASCIMENTO / MAARTEN VAN DER HORST / MARIOS SCHWAB / MARK FAST / MARTINE ROSE / MARQUES’ALMEIDA / MARY KATRANTZOU / MATTHEW MILLER / MICHAEL VAN DER HAM / MR. START / NASIR MAZHAR / PALMER//HARDING / NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD / OMAR KASHOURA / PETER JENSEN / PETER PILOTTO / PIERS ATKINSON / RICHARD NICOLL / ROKSANDA ILINCIC / ROSE AND ROSE / SHAUN SAMSON / SIBLING / SIMONE ROCHA / SISTER BY SIBLING / THOMAS TAIT / TIM SOAR / TODD LYNN / WILLIAM RICHARD GREEN / YANG DU
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PARIS MEN — Spring / Summer 2012 Saturday 25th – Tuesday 28th June 2011 LOS ANGELES — Spring / Summer 2012 Monday 17th – Wednesday 19th October 2011 Sponsored by Mondrian LA and Concept @ Ace Gallery HONG KONG — Spring / Summer 2012 Monday 31st October – Tuesday 1st November 2011 Sponsored by LI&FUNG NEW YORK — Spring / Summer 2012 Wednesday 9th – Thursday 10th November 2011 Sponsored by Soho Grand
DESIGNER SUPPORT
FASH/ON FILM FASH/ON Film was launched in February 2012 at London Fashion Week. The scheme, sponsored by River Island aims to support and develop relationships between fashion designers and film makers, providing a showcasing opportunity at London Fashion Week. It recognises the on-going growth of fashion film as an important creative product of the industry and London’s position at the centre of this film revolution. Panel — Alyn Horton / Test Kathryn Ferguson / Film maker and curator of the BFI’s Birds Eye View Festivals ‘Fashion Loves Film’ Strand Jaime Perlman / British Vogue Josie Roscop / River Island Laura Bailey / BFC Cultural Ambassador Stephen Whelan / White Lodge BFC Representatives: Clara Mercer / Rosanna Falconer / Laura Hinson
ROCK VAULt Rock Vault is a fine jewellery initiative to support, showcase and promote Britain’s most innovative, fine jewellery talent. Curated by Stephen Webster and sponsored by the International Palladium Board, BFC Rock Vault launched during London Fashion Week, February 2012, at Somerset House. This unique showcasing initiative is designed to give designers the opportunity to further develop their businesses and gain exposure amongst both UK and international media and retailers who attend LFW. Selected designers are awarded cash support to create their own unique installation within the dedicated BFC Rock Vault space at the London Fashion Week Exhibition. They also receive business support mentoring. Designers — Alexandra Jefford / Fernando Jorge / Hannah Martin / Husam El Odeh / Jo Hayes Ward / Jordan Askill / Katie Hillier / Melanie Georgacopoulos / Sophie Bille Brahe / Tomasz Donocik
PARIS MEN — Autumn / Winter 2012 Saturday 21st – Tuesday 24th January 2012 PARIS — Autumn / Winter 2012 Thursday 1st – Thursday 8th March 2012 LOS ANGELES — Autumn / Winter 2012 Tuesday 13th March – Thursday 15th March 2012 Sponsored by Concept @ Ace Gallery NEW YORK — Autumn / Winter 2012 Tuesday 20th – Thursday 21st March 2012 Sponsored by Industria Superstudio, Grand Life and Tribeca Grand
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YEAR IN VIEW
SEPTEMBER / 2011
Sept BRITISH FASHION AWARDS NOMINEES PARTY BORN TO WALK TALL: SAVE THE CHILDREN CHARITY WALK LONDON FASHION WEEK / LONDON FASHION WEEK OPENING / DOWNING STREET RECEPTION / / HEADONISM AT LFW / BFC/ELLE TALENT LAUNCH PAD PARTY / / DESIGNERS PARTY / ESTETHICA RECEPTION /
VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND LONDON SHOW ROOMS PARIS / LE LOFT / OPENING RECEPTION /
BRITISH EMBASSY RECEPTION PARIS BRITAIN CREATES & FASHION 2012 ANNOUNCEMENT
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EVENTS & CELEBRATION
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evenTS & CeleBraTIonS The British Fashion Council promotes the uk Fashion Industry and its designers internationally. It does this through a diverse strategy including events around the world.
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EVENTS & CELEBRATION
EVENTS & CELEBRATION
LONDON FASHION WEEK
VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND
lonDon FaSHIon week TakeS plaCe TwICe a year In FeBruary anD SepTemBer SHowCaSIng over 250 DeSIgnerS To a gloBal auDIenCe oF InFluenTIal meDIa anD reTaIlerS. LFW is one of the four leading fashion weeks. Sitting alongside New York, Milan and Paris it has developed the reputation of ‘innovation and creative capital’ and the ‘birthplace of talent’. LFW comprises the official show schedule includes catwalk shows, presentations, the exhibition and digital screenings. Also includes a vibrant events schedule of launches, after show parties, dinners, gallery and museum exhibitions. In February 2012, Vodafone became the new Principal Sponsor of LFW, Title Sponsor of Vodafone London Fashion Weekend and sponsor of the British Fashion Awards. Canon continues to be an Official Sponsor of London Fashion Week and their support of BFC initiatives has grown to include Vodafone London Fashion Weekend, British Fashion Awards and designer support activity. New Sponsors for 2012 include International Palladium Board, American Express, River Island and LG. pROgRAMME SpONSORS — Headonism sponsored by Royal Ascot NEWGEN sponsored by TOPSHOP NEWGEN MEN sponsored by TOPMAN Estethica sponsored by Monsoon Elle Talent Launch Pad NEW pROgRAMME SpONSORS FROM 2012 — Rock Vault sponsored by International Palladium Board Fash/on Film sponsored by River Island.
LONDON FASHION WEEK SpONSORS: — September 2011 —
February 2012 —
principal Sponsor Canon — Coutts & Co DHl F&F at Tesco glaceau vitamin water lavazza lg london evening Standard m.a.C mayor of london mercedes-Benz monsoon The may Fair Toni&guy Topman TopSHop uk Trade and Investment vodafone
principal Sponsor vodafone — Canon DHl F&F at Tesco glaceau vitamin water lavazza lg london evening Standard m.a.C mayor of london mercedes-Benz monsoon International palladium Board The may Fair Toni&guy Topman TopSHop uk Trade and Investment
with thanks to the following for their contribution to london Fashion week: — CBS outdoor Jo malone In Digital mulberry
with thanks to the following for their contribution to london Fashion week: — admiral Scaffolding american express CBS outdoor Jo malone In Digital mulberry righster
In 2011, THe BFC Began To reFoCuS voDaFone lonDon FaSHIon weekenD To BrIng IT more In lIne wITH lonDon FaSHIon week, anD To gIve THe ConSumer a Truer FaSHIon week experIenCe. In September 2011, we introduced a new Retailer Plus package, which introduced brands such as Hoxton Pony, Levi’s and Hemingway Design into the event as partners. For February 2012, the revenue from Retailer Plus brands saw a 76% increase as new brands such as LOV Tea, Benefit and Essie Nails got involved in the event. New sponsors included Veet, Canon, American Express and Compeed. In September 2011 David Koma designed the Weekend tote bag, and in February 2012, Holly Fulton lent one of her iconic designs. SEpTEMBER 2011 — principal Sponsor Vodafone — Chambord Diet Coke Elizabeth Arden Elle Fridja Lavazza Shopstyle Superdrug The May Fair Toni&Guy
FEBRuARY 2012 — principal Sponsor Vodafone — Canon Chambord Compeed Diet Coke Elizabeth Arden Elle Lavazza Shopstyle The May Fair Toni&Guy veet
FASHION 2012 Fashion 2012 is the official fashion industry activity for the Olympic year. Created by the British Fashion Council, with the approval of LOCOg, it is a central platform under which the industry is able to showcase and celebrate British fashion. It will provide a core focus for the industry and a schedule for the major fashion events and activities throughout London’s Olympic year. Fashion 2012 has three key objectives – to celebrate and showcase our extraordinary talent in the world of Fashion; to inspire and educate young people to get involved with the industry; and to leave a legacy of future support and nurture for our fashion stars of tomorrow. The programme was announced on 16th September 2011 at the opening of London Fashion Week by BFC Chairman, Harold Tillman CBE and London Mayor, Boris Johnson. The Fashion 2012 online resource promotes and showcases events, exhibitions and activity surrounding fashion throughout 2012. Fashion 2012 will highlight the breadth and depth of the talent in the UK and will position London as the creative capital. Activities include: — A series of showcases and exhibitions including two London Fashion Weeks in February and September, major exhibitions at the V&A and London Show Rooms international showcase promoting BFC designers abroad — A joint BFC / British Council project bringing the world’s most exciting emerging fashion designers to London for the Fashion 2012 International Fashion Showcase — A major push for British Menswear featuring a series of activities both in the UK and abroad — An educational project in collaboration with Adidas and the BFC’s Colleges Council — The BFC / Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation’s 2012 Showcase – “Britain Creates 2012” – in collaboration with the Mayor of London www.fashion2012.com
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43 BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
EVENTS & CELEBRATION
BRITISH FASHION Awards
BRITAIN CREATES Britain Creates 2012 is an artistic project which forms part of our Fashion 2012 activity to celebrate the year of London’s hosting of the Olympic and paralympic games. The BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation has been working with the Mayor of London, LOCOG and a panel of influential individuals across fashion and the arts to deliver this unique cultural programme and event which will form a part of the London 2012 Festival, a spectacular 12-week nationwide celebration from 21st June 2012. 'Britain Creates 2012: Fashion & Art Collusion', is part of this artistic project, providing a unique opportunity to celebrate and strengthen the longstanding relationships between fashion designers and visual artists. Susanna Greeves, curator of Britain Creates 2012 and our working party have commissioned 9 works of art, each a collaboration between an artist and a fashion designer. — Giles Deacon and Jeremy Deller Hussein Chalayan and Gavin Turk Jonathan Saunders and Jess Flood-Paddock Mary Katrantzou and Mark Titchner Matthew Williamson and Mat Collishaw Nicholas Kirkwood and Simon Periton Paul Smith and Charming Baker Peter Pilotto and Francis Upritchard Stephen Jones and Cerith Wyn Evans The Britain Creates 2012 project is the start of an ongoing artistic project and bursary to support and encourage further collaboration between fashion and other art forms. The money for the bursary will be raised through the auction of the pieces and through the proceeds of a Gala event. “With its innovative designers, cutting edge street style and catwalk pizzazz, it's no wonder London has been voted fashion capital of the world. We want to show the city at its creative best in 2012 and these intriguing collaborations will bring together some of the most exciting designers and artists working in Britain today. I've no doubt we'll be seeing work that is as challenging as it is inventive, showing the power of creative collaboration and adding to a summer like no other.” Mayor of London Boris Johnson
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EVENTS & CELEBRATION
Britain Creates has been made possible by generous donations from private funders including Megha Mittal and through Arts Council funding. They have not only provided essential start up funding to get this project underway but have also given valuable input on the working committee. The BFC thanks Megha Mittal and the Arts Council for their generous support. pROJECT pARTNERS — Arts Council / Selfridges / Victoria & Albert Museum / Phillips de Pury
BFC FASHION ARTS FOUNDATION The BFC/Bazaar Fashion Arts Foundation aims to nurture collaborations and foster relationships between fashion, film, music and art talent.Through this strategy the BFC aims to highlight London’s position as a leading creative capital and re-affirm our fashion industry’s reputation for innovation. Registered charity number 1147729 FASHION ARTS FOUNDATION
Once a year, the British Fashion Council presents the British Fashion Awards. This event is an opportunity for the fashion industry to celebrate and promote the extraordinary creative talents in the uK. Since its inception, the Awards ceremony has been a highlight of the industry calendar. The British Fashion Awards 2011 generated £12 million of media value. The 2011 British Fashion Awards were held on Monday 28th November 2011 at The Savoy Hotel and Theatre, London. A theatre style awards ceremony in the Savoy Theatre for 1500 guests followed by a dinner at the Savoy hotel for 500 guests. Hosted by presenters George Lamb and Lauren Laverne, the ceremony saw the best of the British and international fashion industries joined by a glamorous line-up of guests and presenters, including BFC Ambassador Samantha Cameron, Kate Moss, Victoria Beckham, Kate Hudson, Colin Firth CBE, Olivia Palermo, Josephine de la Baume, Marc Jacobs, Lady Amanda Harlech and Alexa Chung. Sarah Burton OBE for Alexander McQueen won the esteemed Designer of the Year award 2011 and twelve other leading fashion figures were honoured. The ceremony included two new awards – New Establishment and Emerging Talent – Menswear.
THANK YOu TO OuR SpONSORS — M.A.C Toni&Guy Vodafone AND THE FOLLOWINg FOR THEIR CONTRIBuTION — HSBC Diptyque Evian Hello Marks & Spencer Mercedes-Benz Savoy WINNERS — Emerging Talent Award / Ready-To-Wear Mary Katrantzou Emerging Talent Award / Accessories Tabitha Simmons Emerging Talent Award / Menswear Christopher Raeburn Accessory Designer Charlotte Olympia Menswear Designer Kim Jones Designer Brand Victoria Beckham Model Stella Tennant BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Sir Paul Smith Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator Sam Gainsbury Red Carpet Award Stella McCartney Designer of the Year Sarah Burton OBE for Alexander McQueen New Establishment Award Christopher Kane British Style Award Brought to you by Vodafone Alexa Chung
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OCTOBER / 2011
Oct SARAH MOWER MBE CELEBRATION LONDON SHOW ROOMS LOS ANGELES / ACE GALLERY /
RECEPTION HOSTED BY JESSICA DE ROTHSCHILD LONDON SHOW ROOMS Los Angeles / CLOSING PARTY /
Chairman’s annual dinner / Dorchester hotel /
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47 BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
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49 BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
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EDUCATION & INDUSTRY INSIGHT The British Fashion Council understands that fashion is always changing and developing. Educating and helping others is a progressive way forward. Education & Industry Insight is an intelligent and smart way to support the fashion community. This section highlights how we are leading the way.
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EDUCATION & INDUSTRY insight
EDUCATION & INDUSTRY insight
BFC COLLEGES COUNCIL
2011–12 ANNUAL PROGRAMME
The Colleges Council was founded by the British Fashion Council in 1993 to create an interface linking education and industry. It provides students with opportunities like competitions, bursaries and events.
MAY
JULY – MA Scholarship
The Colleges Council Graduate Preview Day is organised to foster relationships between graduates and industry.
The BFC MA scholarship is funded by the Princess of Wales Charitable Trust, the BFC’s educational charity. The award is made on the basis of talent and financial need and this year was split between Alice Bastin who was able to take up her place at Central St Martins and Felix Chabluk-Smith who is studying at the Royal College of Art.
The selection process of choosing the overall winner and two runners-up was a lengthy decision due to the calibre of the work submitted, that took Mulberry’s Creative Director, Emma Hill and Head of Ready to Wear, Frances Stringer many weeks to complete.
AUGUST
Kyle Graham Spires from the Royal College of Art won the Nicole Farhi Graduate Competition 2012. This sees him undertaking a three month paid internship working alongside the Design Team at Nicole Farhi.
2011 Steering Committee — The Colleges Council steering committee represents the 34 member colleges and comprises: Chair: Anne Tyrrell MBE / Anne Tyrrell Design Elinor Renfrew / Kingston University Wendy Dagworthy MBE / Royal College of Art Louise Pickles / Bath Spa University Malcolm McInnes / University of Brighton Sharon Rees / University of Wales, Newport Member Colleges — Arts Institute at Bournemouth Bath Spa University Birmingham City University Bucks New University Central Saint Martins De Montfort University Doncaster College Edinburgh College of Art Glasgow School of Art Heriot Watt University Kingston University London College of Fashion Manchester School of Art Middlesex University Nottingham Trent University Northbrook College Plymouth College of Art Ravensbourne College of Design & Communications Royal College of Art Thames Valley University University for the Creative Arts, Epsom University for Creative Arts, Rochester University of Brighton University of Derby University of East London University of Huddersfield University of Leeds The University of Northampton University of Northumbria University of Salford University of the West of England University of Wales, Newport University of Westminster
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The annual event brings together industry insiders from media, recruitment, retail, design, manufacturing, sales, marketing and PR to preview the work of graduating students who will be entering the job market later in the year. In 2011 the Graduate Preview Day was held on the 6th May at The Mayfair Hotel. The 27 exhibiting colleges submitted portfolios to be judged by a panel of industry experts. Headed by Chair of the Colleges Council — Anne Tyrrell MBE the panel included: — Hannah White / Fashion Monitor Lauretta Roberts / WGSN Nick Chalkley / Harrods Caroline Burstein / Browns The ‘Fashion Monitor Colleges Portfolio Award’ was given to University of Salford The ‘WGSN Digital Presentation Award’ went to London College of Fashion The ‘BFC Fashion Illustration Award’ in association with Fashion Monitor went to De Montfort University Attendees included: — Harrods / Browns / Vogue Italia / Nicole Farhi / Selfridges / Vogue UK / Warehouse / Marks and Spencer / Max Mara / Maria Luisa / Aquascutum / Love Magazine / Another Magazine CHARITIES: PRINCESS OF WALES CHARITABLE TRUST The purpose of the Trust is to provide educational scholarships for British graduate fashion design students to further their training. Trustees: Simon Ward / BFC Anne Tyrrell MBE / Anne Tyrrell Designs Anna Harvey / Conde Nast International
The winner of the third joint competition with Warehouse was announced as Shivani Chavda from De Montfort University. This year for the first time the competition also searched for new talent in photography with Emily Smeaton from University of the West of England selected as the winner. Both winners have the unique opportunity to join the innovative brand for a sixth month paid design placement, post-graduation. Design winner Shivani Chavda saw pieces from her graduate collection produced and sold exclusively in selected Warehouse stores nationwide. Photography winner Emily Smeaton shot the campaign for the collection. This competition allows the winners to follow the full journey of the collection development from the initial design process, through production, to campaign creation and marketing the collection launch. JANUARY Judging of the first competition with Mulberry awarded a £2000 prize to Jousianne Propp from the Manchester School of Art. Entrants were encouraged to submit at least five looks solely designed with the autumn/winter 2013 season in mind. Entrants also had to submit all research and inspiration material including mood boards and fabric selections that inspired their creations.
FEBRUARY
A senior panel of judges including Anne Tyrrell, Chair of the BFC Colleges Council; Caroline Rush, CEO, BFC and Nicole Farhi, Creative Director, Nicole Farhi chose the winning graduate based on their portfolio, written case study and final presentation. Nicole Farhi and the judges praised the three finalists who came highly commended in the competition, Louise Bennetts, Edinburgh College of Art; Joseph McGee, Royal College of Art and Vic Riches, Kingston University. MARCH The now annual Harrods Seminar was held on 27th March 2012. Primarily aimed at keeping tutors updated on the changes and challenges in the industry. THIS YEAR’S speakers included David Watts / BFC Geoff Watts / Editd Amber Siegel and Wooter Baartmans / Baartmans & Siegel Julian Vogel / Modus Publicity Antonio Berardi / Womenswear Designer Philip Treacy / Millinery designer David Downton / Fashion Illustrator The BFC would like to thank Harrods and Marigay McKee for their continued support of the Heads of Course seminar.
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EDUCATION & INDUSTRY insight
EDUCATION & INDUSTRY insight
BUSINESS SUPPORT
BUSINESS SUPPORT SEMINARS
FUTURE OF FASHION ROAD MAP
As part of the BFC’s on-going commitment to nurturing and supporting designer businesses, it provides business support and mentoring as an integral part of all of its designer support schemes including BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund; BFC/ELLE Talent Launch Pad; NEWGEN sponsored by TOPSHOP; NEWGEN MEN sponsored by TOPMAN; Fashion Forward supported by Mayor of London, and BFC Fashion Trust.
Business support seminars throughout the year provide an opportunity for designers to receive advice from industry experts.
The British Fashion Council launched the ‘Future of Fashion – Strategic Considerations for Growth’ report at a press conference, hosted by Sir Philip Green and Harold Tillman CBE, to open London Fashion Week February 2012.
BUSINESS SUPPORT NETWORK The Business Support Network in an online easyaccess tool found on www.britishfashioncouncil. com/businesssupportnetwork. The Network provides information about organisations offering business support to the fashion industry from showcasing opportunities and funding, to training and advice for manufacturers and designers.
LONDON FASHION SHOWCASING FUND The LFSF provides financial support for emerging designer initiatives. With funding from the Mayor of London, the BFC manages the Fund’s application and delivery process with the support of a high level panel of industry press and buyers. Funding recipients during 2010/11 were Estethica, Fashion East menswear, Fashion East Man, Fashion East Women, On|Off and Vauxhall Fashion Scout.
Speakers and topics of discussion for seminars held in July 2011 and January 2012 were: — Alex Frankpitt / Baker Tilly / How to value your business for investment Anna Orsini and Barbara Grispini / BFC / Strategic analysis of Order Book – Identifying best sellers and developing future export strategy / International Markets – current analysis Barbara Wilson / UKTI / International Markets / International Trade Missions Japan and Korea Gary Assim / Shoosmiths / Protecting your Name, Brand, IP and Trademark Geoff Watts / Katie Smith / EDITD – How using trends (social media data) can help shape your business Nina Morris / Shoosmiths – Terms & Conditions, Contracts and Bad Debts Rachel Bremer / Twitter Europe / an Introduction to Twitter Sarah Curran / CEO My-Wardrobe / Designer Brands working with e-commerce
The UK fashion industry is worth £21billion to the UK economy and makes a vital contribution to the global reputation of Great Britain as a leader in creative excellence. Much more can be done to drive the sector forward and contribute to the growth for the UK economy. In this report The British Fashion Council lays out its vision for the sector, identifying five areas which it believes have great potential and highlights the action required to ensure this potential is met, spanning skills, training, education, job creation, talent development, retail, manufacturing, philanthropy and sponsorship. The considerations offer inspiration and hope for the future of this great industry and for the UK economy.
MARKET REPORTs With support from UKTI, the BFC produces up to three Market Reports per year looking at cities in established and emerging markets to create in-depth views of the designer fashion landscape and opportunities for British businesses. When completed these reports are presented in seminars and are available to purchase from the BFC. The BFC also use this information to update its database and for targeting buyers to attend London Fashion Week and London Show Rooms.
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NOVEMBER / 2011
Nov LONDON SHOW ROOMS HONG KONG / ACE GALLERY /
AFTERNOON TEA HOSTED BY ANGELICA CHEUNG LSR CLOSING PARTY HOSTED BY YANA PEEL LONDON SHOW ROOMS NEW YORK / SOHO GRAND HOTEL /
LONDON SHOW ROOMS NEW YORK / OPENING BRUNCH / CLOSING PARTY /
NEWGEN MENSWEAR & WOMENSWEAR ANNOUNCEMENT BRITISH FASHION AWARDS
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57 BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
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01 — 02 BRITISH FASHION AWARDS 2011 03 London Show Rooms NYC 04 London show rooms Hong Kong
Photograph: Zac Frackelton. Image courtesy of the Telegraph Media Group.
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DECEMBER / 2011
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Dec BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND JUDGING Christopher Inman receives an OBE in the Queen’s New Year Honours List
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01 — 02 BFC Vogue FASHION FUND Judging
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BFC
Promoting / British Fashion
Communicating with the global fashion industry is a vital part of the promotion of british fashion, london fashion week and its designers. The BFC’s communications strategy is multi-faceted, targeting a global audience collectively and key audiences specifically through multiple platforms. The BFC works with PR companies in New York, Paris, Los Angeles and Hong Kong to assist in market engagement and the London Fashion Week Guest Programme. The BFC PR team also directly contacts media and buyers in key countries placing editorial, inviting guests and encouraging their attendance to London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Awards, London Show Rooms and other BFC events.
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PRESS COMMITTEE The BFC Press Committee, a panel of key industry figures, advises the British Fashion Council on key issues facing British designer fashion. It provides invaluable industry feedback on London Fashion Week and is instrumental in creating the shortlist for the British Fashion Awards. The BFC would like to thank each member of the press committee for the valuable time and expertise they give to the BFC. BFC Press Committee — Alexandra Shulman OBE / Vogue UK Carola Long / Financial Times Dylan Jones / GQ Gianluca Longo / Freelance Writer Holly Shackleton / i-D Iain R Webb / Freelance Writer Jenny Dickinson / Harper’s Bazaar Jess Cartner-Morley / The Guardian Karen Dacre / The Evening Standard Laura Craik / The Times Lisa Armstrong / The Daily Telegraph Lorraine Candy / ELLE Lucy Yeomans / Harper’s Bazaar (until April 2012) Paula Reed / Grazia Samantha Conti / WWD Sarah Mower / US Vogue Sophia Neophitou-Apostalou / 10 Magazine Susannah Frankel / The Independent Terry Jones / i-D Tiffanie Darke / Sunday Times Style
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PROMOTING
BFC
PROMOTING / BRITISH FASHION
Promoting / British Fashion
INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS
LETTER FROM LONDON
DIGITAL STRATEGY
International markets have never been more important to British designers and vice versa. During difficult economic times around the world, British designers offer something different that stands out in-store and ensures that the consumer remains interested.
The Letter from London is a seasonal publication distributed to 5,000 industry press and buyers. We create separate targeted publications for Menswear and Womenswear.
Fashion2012.co.uk was launched in January to provide a core focus for the industry and a schedule for the major fashion events and activities throughout London’s Olympic year.
Telemarketing in multiple languages, the team ensures that British fashion has a truly international outreach programme, developing relationships with key audiences and ensuring that those audiences have points of contact when in London to introduce them to British designers and ensure that they get the most out of their visit to London Fashion Week.
THE INSIDE GUIDE & LITTLE BLACK BOOK
Britishfashioncouncil.com was re-launched in November 2011, providing designers, press, buyers and the public with a dynamic platform to present the wide range of events, business support and news from the organisation. Highlights include a live feed of the best blogs from our Blog Portal, a press kit with full archive of press releases grouped by initiative, an archive of designer profiles and an events calendar of all our activity which can be downloaded to the user’s personal diary. This coincides with the launch of the dedicated BFC Twitter account and Facebook page. The BFC continues to unite fashion and digital innovation, encouraging engagement with its events through social media, live streaming and pioneering new technologies. The digital schedule at London Fashion Week AW12 was the strongest yet with 45 shows live streamed and a dedicated film programme, curated by the BFC Fash/On Film panel (sponsored by River Island) and screened in the Canon Cinema at Somerset House.
— britishfashioncouncil.com — facebook.com/britishfashioncouncil — twitter.com/bfc — londonfashionweek.com — facebook.com/londonfashionweek — twitter.com/londonfashionwk — britishfashionawards.com — fashion2012.co.uk —
GUEST PROGRAMME
The Inside Guide to London Fashion Week provides an editorial overview of The Exhibition at London Fashion Week as well as providing key information about the event. The Little Black Book is a complete directory of contacts for all participating designers. 5,000 of each are distributed together to all LFW guests upon registering at reception. They are also available in the Press Lounge.
The Guest Programme has become an integral part of the BFC’s London Fashion Week promotional strategy. It is supported by UKTI to ensure attendance of key opinion formers from both media and buying teams, from traditional and emerging markets. The programme is vital in a city where the emphasis is often put on exciting and emerging design talent that, in the majority of cases, do not have marketing budgets with which to advertise.
LONDON FASHION WEEK THE DAILY
ACCREDITATION
The Estethica Review is a magazine devoted to promoting the best in eco-sustainable fashion. Its editor Jessie Brinton tackles important sustainability issues whilst also including insightful interviews and a fashion shoot featuring the Estethica designers.
Each season, the BFC PR department receives applications from those who wish to attend London Fashion Week as a member of the press, as a buyer, photographer or videographer. Each application is individually reviewed to ensure those who attend LFW are of benefit to the designers. Over the past 26 years the BFC has developed one of the most comprehensive databases of global media and retail buyers. The PR team co-ordinates an accreditation list of domestic and international audiences attending London Fashion Week – including both press and trade. These lists, with profiles and contact details are shared with designers and fashion PRs showing at London Fashion Week to ensure they have maximum possible attendance of influential industry figures.
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The Daily newspaper keeps audiences up to date on breaking stories, designer interviews, show reports, event updates and the inside track on what happens at London Fashion Week. ESTETHICA REVIEW
We work closely with Twitter to promote conversation around London Fashion Week using the hashtag #LFW and by mentioning the official account @LondonFashionWk. Q&A sessions were held over the 6 days of LFW from the @LondonFashionWk account, with guests including Anya Hindmarch MBE and Alexa Chung. For the first time, a dedicated photographer was backstage at London Fashion Week to capture a ‘behind-the-scenes’ look for broadcast exclusively on CBS Outdoor UK’s network of Cross-track Projection (XTP) screens on London Underground platforms. This was projected alongside highlights from the @LondonFashionWk Twitter feed and a news feed. This activity is part of an ongoing partnership with CBS Outdoor UK.
The BFC continues to work in partnership with Rightster to distribute official event content to global audiences. This service has enabled the BFC to better manage the quality of content disseminated to key publications, broadcasters and retailers worldwide. The US is the second largest market for content after the UK.
Aurasma brought LFW to digital life this year. Covers of The LFW Daily newspaper transformed into exclusive video interviews with the designer pictured, including Jonathan Saunders and Henry Holland, as well as catwalk imagery which linked to videos of the corresponding catwalk show and LFW visitor passes which linked to our Twitter feed.
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JANUARY / 2012
Jan LONDON SHOW ROOMS MEN PARIS LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN ANNOUNCEMENT BUSINESS SUPPORT SEMINAR
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January / 2012
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WHAT ELSE
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WHAT ELSE DO WE DO?
THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ARE CONSTANTLY LOOKING FOR WAYS TO IMPROVE, develop and add value. SUSTAINABILITY The BFC believes in sustainability. Its ethical fashion showcase Estethica is ground breaking and creates a focal point for the industry to support ethical designer businseses and look at the sustainable challenges facing all businesses. The BFC supports the 10:10 climate change campaign calling for a 10% cut to the UK’s carbon emissions. DIVERSITY The BFC is committed to diversity, believing that the fashion industry is one of the most socially inclusive sectors in this country. SUPPORTING MODELS The BFC brings together a working party comprising the AMA, model agency representatives, Equity and the Mayor of London’s office to develop an ongoing Model Programme. This panel looks at opportunities to help set industry standards. The BFC ensures that designers showing at London Fashion Week supply food and soft drinks for models and workers backstage as part of their contract to show on schedule. All models walking at London Fashion Week must be at least 16 years of age. The BFC undertakes spot checks to ensure that these contractual obligations are adhered to.
The BFC supported Erin O’Connor’s the Model Sanctuary which was available to all working models during London Fashion Week. The Sanctuary provides healthy food and drink, a place to relax, network, access to councellors and nutritionalists. From February 2012, the BFC took on Erin’s work to manage the Model Relaxation Lounge to ensure it continues to provide a dedicated private space, healthy food and to act as an information point for models. MANUFACTURING ALLIANCE The BFC is a partner in the Manufacturing Alliance, formed to look at challenges facing designer fashion manufacturers in the UK. It has identified the need to create a framework to support growth in this sector that is already in place in France, Italy and highlighted as a need in New York. The Alliance comprises of the BFC, Centre for Fashion Enterprise, Creative Skillset and the UK Fashion & Textile Association. “This project has sought to explore how the relationships between designers and smaller manufacturing units can be improved to help both parties capitalise on the growing order books of British designer businesses. The small scale atelier type production units used by designers, most of which are based in London, are vital for our top end designer to sustain and develop sales growth each season.” Harold Tillman CBE The Fashion Alliance has developed downloadable tool kits to help designers communicate their needs effectively to production units. www.fashionalliance.co.uk
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WHAT ELSE
WHAT ELSE
WHAT ELSE DO WE DO?
WHAT ELSE DO WE DO?
WOMEN’S TENNIS ASSOCIATION
BORN TO WALK TALL: SAVE THE CHILDREN
Creative Industries Council
SUPPORTING FASHION FESTIVALS
On the occasion of the WTA (Women’s Tennis Association) annual pre-Wimbledon party and in honour of the 125th anniversary of Wimbledon, the WTA and the British Fashion Council, unveiled a unique partnership celebrating the strong connection between the stars of women’s tennis and the world of fashion. The aim of the WTA-British Fashion Council collaboration is to feature British designers, raise the off-court profile of the stars of women’s tennis and further extend the link between the sport and fashion. The aim is to also increase exposure of British designers on the red carpet, a long standing commitment of the British Fashion Council.
The 2011 British Fashion Award nominees, led by Save the Children and British Fashion Council ambassador Samantha Cameron, celebrated their nomination by taking part in Born to Walk Tall - the first ever fashion mile, to honour the critical work performed by doctors, nurses and midwives worldwide. The walk started at Number 10 Downing Street and finished at the British Fashion Council headquarters, Somerset House.
In July 2011, the Creative Industries Council (CIC) was created to provide the creative industries with a real voice and to support the government in identifying ways in which it can help the sector grow. Caroline Rush, Chief Executive, sits on the council alongside leading figures from across the creative industries including TV, computer games, fashion, music, arts, publishing and film.
Port Eliot The Port Eliot Festival is an annual celebration of words, music, imagination, laughter, exploration, and – above all – fun. In 2011, Sarah Mower MBE, with volunteers from the BFC team, curated the fashion ‘Wardrobe Department’ at the festival. Designers included Luella Bartley, Louise Gray, Nasir Mazhar, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff.
Simon Ward, Chief Operating Officer, sits on the Skillset working party, which focuses on internships and apprenticeships within the creative industries.
Vintage by Hemingway Each year, the Vintage by Hemingway festival celebrates musical, fashion, film, art, design and cultural lineages, from the 1920s to the 1980s. The BFC partnered with Vintage by Hemingway to curate a catwalk show featuring emerging designers who showcased their current season, which one day will be the ‘Future Vintage’, to a wider audience.
BFC FASHION INSIDERS Created in 2010, BFC Fashion Insiders is a network for Executive Assistants and PAs within the fashion, retail and media industries, and those with links to the British Fashion Council through events such as London Fashion Week. It aims to build a strong network of professional and personal contacts through events and to help facilitate development of existing relationships. Hosted by BFC Executive Assistant, Marcos Eleftheriou, events and meeting opportunities are planned throughout the year, including a reception held in New York in March 2012 where assistants from Vogue US, Hearst, Saks, Belstaff, Esquire and the CFDA attended. BRITISH DESIGNER COLLECTIVE Alexa Chung, BFC Young Style Ambassador, hosted the launch of the annual British Designers Collective at Bicester Village on 21 March 2012. Now in its third year, the pop-up boutique concept store is an exclusive collaboration between value retail’s, Bicester Village, and the British Fashion Council, offering emerging British talent the opportunity to showcase their collections in a unique setting.
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ALL PARTY PARLIAMENTARY GROUP (APPG) On Wednesday 18th May, the British Fashion Council and Damian Collins MP hosted a conference on London Fashion Week to an All Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) for Fashion and Textiles. Members of Parliament and researchers from all political parties were invited to attend the event at the Burberry Global Headquarters at Horseferry House in Westminster. The APPG was created to help target and educate party backbenchers to influence change in Parliament with regards to the fashion and textile industry. China/Britain Business Alliance In July 2011, the British Fashion Council announced a historic China/Britain Fashion Alliance; a combined initiative between the BFC, the Beijing International Brand Management Centre (BIBMC) and the ChinaBritain Business Council (CBBC). The China/Britain Fashion Alliance will promote British fashion in China, showcase British fashion designers in China, foster mutual cooperation and collaboration, open strategic and economic dialogue for regular exchange at senior level and provide strategic guidance to the development of fashion in China.
Internships and apprenticeships The British Fashion Council has held several meetings with HMRC to review how internships are used in the fashion industry, following which HMRC has carried out a series of educational visits to designers. Following feedback from these meetings, BFC will be working with HMRC to ensure that national minimum wage legislation is adhered to and that designers’ resource challenges are effectively supported. To this end, the BFC is also working closely with Creative Skillset to explore how Apprenticeships can best be developed to support designers and will be working with colleges to ensure that students have well-structured placement opportunities.
Designers included: Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, Holly Fulton, J.JS Lee, Michael van der Ham, Tim Soar Woman, Thomas Tait.
The BFC is also supporting the work of the newly established Designer-Manufacturer Innovation Support Centre (DISC)
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FEBRUARY / 2012
Feb BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND WINNER’S RECEPTION LONDON FASHION WEEK FUTURE OF FASHION REPORT LAUNCHED DOWNING STREET reception FASH/ON ON LAUNCH LAUNCH OF ROCK VAULT BFC & BRITISH COUNCIL INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE ALEXA CHUNG NAMED BFC YOUNG STYLE AMBASSADOR VODAFONE LONDON FASHION WEEKEND
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01 London Fashion Week 02 DOWNING STREET RECEPTION 03 INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOWCASE 04 ESTHETICA LAUNCHES AT LFW 05 ROCK VAULT LAUNCH 06 FASHION FUND 2011 07 FASH/ON FILM 08 London Fashion Week
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The British Fashion Council Team
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(July 2012)
EXECUTIVE BOARD — Harold Tillman CBE / Chairman Caroline Rush / Chief Executive Simon Ward / Chief Operating Officer Anya Hindmarch MBE / Non–Executive Director Christopher Inman OBE / Hon Treasurer Office of CEO & COO — Marcos Eleftheriou / Executive Assistant Bianca D’Orsi / Administrator and Research Assistant
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SHOW TEAM — Katie Bain / Show Manager Laura Hinson / Show Executive Lucia Heath / Sales Executive Emma Campbell / Show Assistant
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNUAL REPORT 2011— 2012
PR Team (Media & Buyers) — Gemma Ebelis / Head of Press Ellie Wilson / Senior PR Executive Kimberly Carroll / Senior International PR Executive Will Rowley / PR Assistant Charlotte Gray / PR Assistant Naoko Suzuki / Buyers Relations UK & International Public Sector & Projects — Emma Early / Project Manager
EVENTS — Caroline Reader / Events Manager Georgina Riley / Production Manager Tessa Creagh-Barry / Events Assistant
Sponsorship Team — Jenico Preston / Head of Sponsorship Kate Eastop / Sponsorship Coordinator Jennie Becker / Sponsorship Executive
Finance — Lisa Wren / Finance Manager Shandrae Sampson / Accounts Assistant
Business Support — David Watts / Business Support Manager
Marketing Team — Clara Mercer / Head of Marketing Rosanna Falconer / Digital Marketing Executive Marits Roberts / Marketing Executive Ana MacCarrick / Marketing Assistant
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Operations — Anne Lomax / Operations Manager Alex Woodfield / Operations Assistant
Consultants — Anna Orsini / Strategic Consultant Barbara Grispini / London Show Rooms Head of Project and Designer Brand Development Consultant Antonio Fiengo / London Show Rooms Consultant Lulu Kennedy
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MARCH / 2012
Mar LONDON SHOW ROOMS PARIS OPENING RECEPTION
LONDON SHOW ROOMS LOS ANGELES / ACE GALLERY /
LONDON SHOW ROOMS LOS ANGELES OPENING PARTY / SMASHBOX STUDIOS /
LONDON SHOW ROOMS NEW YORK / INDUSTRIA SUPERSTUDIOS /
BRITISH DESIGNER COLLECTIVE / BICESTER VILLAGE /
BFC FASHION INSIDERS RECEPTION IN NEW YORK / CROSBY STREET HOTEL. NEW YORK /
COLLEGES COUNCIL HEADS OF COURSE SEMINAR / Harrods /
Christopher Inman OBE Celebration
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The British Fashion council IS always looking ahead, ALWAYS SETTING THE BAR HIGHER , ALWAYS INSPIRING
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BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL SOMERSET HOUSE, SOUTH WING STRAND, LONDON WC2R 1LA +44(0)20 7759 1999 INFO@BRITISHFASHIONCOUNCIL.COM BRITISHFASHIONCOUNCIL.COM