WOKE zine by Brooklyn Collum

WOKE WOKE

Brooke H Collum brookehuntercollum@gmail.com @Brookec0llum & @Brklyn3000

CONTENTS Editor's Letter........1-2 Art-@TheBoiThatTrips........3-6 INDUSTRY-The Players........7-8 AUDIENCE........11-13

ear Reader, My favorite thing about fashion is that it goes far beyond just wearing clothes. It is the product of an interaction with an insanely fast moving culture. When searching for inspiration I find myself turning to my own youth culture. I am part of the millennial generation and have chosen to embrace that we are constantly seeking new, stimulating information to keep us interested. This may be good, or badâ&#x20AC;ŚThe thrill in fashion is that it takes inspiration from both the good and bad. It feels like it is harder to predict the future than ever before as everything around is moves so quickly. We are creatives, thinkers, doers, questioners. We believe we can never be too informed. Or are we too informed? Are we retaining this information we are being fed? Upon reading, I wish for you to question this. Our youth culture does not dislike the need to be constantly stimulated, things moving at a fast paceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;we have chosen to embrace it. Life is a beautiful chaos.

editor's

letter

ART

MILY JURELLER glues together themes of gender, nostalgia and human behavior in her intricate, eyecatching collages.I love Emilyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quirky Instagram

handle, a play on part of the process for her collages,

ripping. The Brooklyn, New York based photographer and collage

artist works to create pieces surrounding melancholic memories that are re-represented in a more cynical and ironic light. I have been friends with Emily for quite sometime now and have always been visually stimulated by her work. This was the first time we have been able to sit down her art and aesthetic as an artist more thoroughly. Through FaceTime, (bless technology!) we had a chat about her work, copy cats, social media, and our youth culture.

ART ART

“

We try to live in nostalgia that we never even felt in the first place. We are trying to recycle things from eras before our birth…It is not a bad thing necessarily, it is just what I associate our generation with. We are constantly demanding an upgrade in technology…it seems like there is no satisfaction, but fortunately we see the importance of things in the past.”

ART

She spends hours ripping from the

to communicate with those from

pages of books she has found at junk

across the world. I personally find the

stores, garage sales, on the street, or

worldwide audience we can reach on

just about anywhere. These are images

Instagram a beautiful thing. It creates

that begin to have a conversation with

a massive connection from one corner

her, each piece bouncing off another

of the world to the next. It can take

to find the next. The result is a magical us from a collage artist in Brooklyn to masterpiece that speaks no real words

a graphic designer in Berlin to a shop

but appears story-book like. Emily

owner in Japan. From a creative lens,

describes her collaging as a harmonious there is a network of full exposure to chaos, a phrase that feels relatable

show your work; editing your Instagram

to everyday life. As much as we love

page is like curating your own exhibit.

it, much of our chaotic world can be

However, Emily also speaks on the

attributed to the realm of social media. downsides of social media saying, It is an endless world of constant

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I have a constantly battle between

information for us to visually stimulate having an Instagram and feeling like I ourselves. We love it and cannot get

should delete it because I am on it so

enough. Instagram specifically has

much and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even know what I am

become one of, if not the, biggest

looking for anymore.â&#x20AC;? This is a familiar

platform for sharing and displaying art

feeling when we live in a world where

and creative work. Emily explains the

we are constantly seeking immediate

plus side of sharing her work on her page, which is getting

information. Emily tells me she is aware of this as it often hinder to

slow social media.

ART her ability to slow down and appreciate her surroundings. However, I find that her work brings a refreshing light to a society that often takes themselves too seriouslyâ&#x20AC;Ś especially on social media.These collages are an attempt to make fun of herself with tongue-in-cheek humor. I love this concept and idea of exposing yourself and f laws, making them a joke and taking away the opportunity for others to.â&#x20AC;˘

Emily has created all of these funky lighters herself for friends using collage.

A 8

S R E S Y R A PLAYE

INDUSTRyY

L E P H TTHE

Overtime, the fashion industry has slowly evolved from a dog-eat-dog world to a unique collaboration. What now seems to be hot and popular is the idea of a creative team. The industry’s players now more than ever wish to push the boundaries and make moves as one united think tank. It brings us back to the days where we think of artists and creatives sitting around the ‘ol drawing room wearing white wigs discussing their ideas. The spotlight has shifted from a single individual pushing the weight and now sheds light on the team behind them. What has pushed this idea to transpire? Have we as humanity been making an effort toward lending each other a hand rather than pushing each other down? What is the product of a team effort? I find this idea refreshing to consider. I mean, hey—it is 2017 people, we love teamwork!

One of the most major teams celebrating collaborative teamwork is the Vetements crew in partnership with fellow Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy. Together, they make up a band of Post-Soviet break out youth that have climbed to the top of the industry. They have decided it is now the time more than ever to break out of a shell and be seen as artists and creatives. The team consists of Demna Gvasalia, creative director and founder, Guram Gvasalia, Demna’s brother, the strategist and business man behind the scenes and Lotta Volkova, stylist and muse. Gosha first appears as a member of the coveted crew when walking for the Vetements show at the 2015 Paris Fashion Week. The whole thing feels like a clique you want to be a part of. This idea is has spread appeal toward Westerners who are experiencing it for the first time. Separate, they may each be a jack of all trades but only together can they master them. They represent an idea that has been ingrained into our society but we often look past… teamwork. Demna Gvasalia is the head creative voice for the group. The original idea for Vetements was inspired by his

INDUSTRY interest in uniforms. In Georgia, where the creative director comes from, there is a lack of diversity fashionably and socially. To Denma, uniforms send a social message and get people thinking–it is all about the connotation of clothes. He explains this further in an article with Vogue by sharing a personal story of wearing a shirt that appears similar to that of a security guard. When wearing this, people automatically assumed his job and life. What Vetements stands for is one strong idea: plain and simple clothes with a powerful underlying message. But don’t be fooled…it is their marketing strategies and ideas that keep the brand luxurious, exclusive and ahead of the game. Guram is the business brains backing this powerful force. To Guram Gvasalia, keeping the brand exclusive is one of the most important parts to Vetements. According to Vogue, Guram explains this further in a discussion with Sarah Mower at The Royal Insititute by saying, “We are always trying to change the supply curve, making it just a little bit less than the demand curve, to make sure that you sell out.” It is this strategy that works for them…keeping the brand

mysterious and exclusive. When people see the clothing in stores, there is a fear that if they pass up an opportunity to buy it, they will not see it again.

AUDIENCE

e are not limited to the young; instead, we wish to create a bridge between the youth and those who are generations above looking in. It is the influencers vs. those who are influenced, whether you are aware you're being influenced or not. We are for the hypebeast as much as we are for a wallflower who displays their creativity more discretely. We are fashion-centric. We love exploring the idea that fashion pulls pieces from every inch of our modern culture. from politics, popculture, fictional characters on the television. It keeps us moving ever-so fast.

Much of our culture today centers around the idea of influencers. But who are the influencers and who are those being influenced? It is a cycle that I have drawn a great deal of curiosity and inspiration from. A particularly eye-catching individual is John Galliano and the way he portrays himself as an influencer in the industry. He challenges the traditional idea that influencers are older folks trying to shine their knowledge upon the youth. Instead, he lives through the concept that today’s youth culture is just as knowledgeable, if not more, than generations above them. After becoming creative director for Maison Margiela in 2015, Galliano has discussed with press how he has chosen to embrace the digital age, and it has in fact made him feel much freer. He has a team of young, fresh kids who keep him in the loop and turns to what he calls, “Instagram babes” for inspiration. He has accepted that the youth really does matter as they in fact, influence him. The kids have even taught him more about a smart phone than he ever knew before.

AUDIENCE

’m from the Bronx, New York, I went to high school with the contents of Vineyard Vines catalogue, and now I study Studio Art in the middle of nowhere, Massachusetts. I essentially don’t expect anything from anyone. I want to buy a fly ass bike when I get back home. I think I’m creative. I look like shit most of the time but it’s a pretty carefully-cured image. I listen to a lot of fucking music. I think that’s the only interest of mine that I don’t hate. Name

great tunes on your iPhone/iPod:

1. Provider by Frank Ocean

What

things do you hate?

1. Unjustified positivity 2. Most forms of Christianity 3. My hair 4. Ingrown toenails

2. Rolls Royce Bitch by 2 Chainz

5. Sharing 6. Flavored Drinks

3. Night and Day by Everything But the Girl

7. The homogenous nature of goals of the modern liberal

4. Put the Word Out by Heatwave

arts

5. OKAGA, CA by Tyler the Creator

8. Flavored drinks 9. Fake cheese products

6. Anthems for a Seventeen Year Old Girl by Broken Social Scene

7. Death on Two Legs by Queen 9. Biscuit Town by King Krule

What are of your favorite things to eat? One to cook yourself, one to splurge on and one to eat for a late night snack.

10. Lord Pretty Flacko Jodye by A$AP Rocky

1. Cook some soy sauce eggs

8. Feel Flows by The Beach Boys

2. Late-night chicken shwarma

of your favorite things to watch:

3. Splurge on a korean barbeque

1. It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia 2. David Blaine videos

4. Chicken Tikka masala

3. Trailer Park Boys 4. Bojack Horseman

5. Hazelnut chocolate bars

5. Nardwuar Interviews 6. Beavis and Butthead

6. Platanos maduros

7. The Untitled Action Bronson Show 8. Neo Yokio

of your inspirational heroes

YIf you could teleport to any

1. Nardwuar the Human Serviette

places at any given time what

2. Tyler the Creator

would they be?

3. Kanye West

1. An olive tree in Siciliy

4. Prince

2. The Nike Headquarters

5. Demna Gvsaslia

3. Amsterdam

6. Frank Ocean

4. My best friend's dorm in Tokyo

1. A bummy striped button down 2. A pair of Air Force Ones

1. The fact that oppressed peoples still get their own stories told for them 2. Manhood Policing 3. Neyo's Forehead

essential items in your wardrobe:

5. The Chapel at Notr Dame Du Haut

issues you think deserve more world attention:

7. Spicy Pork Ramen

3. A really big coat 4. a YSL sweater I got for really cheap

2 the

What is Googled?

things you never leave the house without: last thing you

1. Wallet 2. Headphones

- How to survive a solar shower

AUDIENCE Name

great tunes on your iPhone/iPod:

1. Adeline by Alt-J

What

things do you hate?

1. Bullies 2. People who are abusive 3. People who are rude with no manner

2. Unstoppable by Sia

4. People who are arrogant

3. Lilac Wine by Jeff Buckley

5. Arrogant people

4. Let There Be Love by Oasis

6. People who aren't generous with time or money

5. Decks Dark by Radiohead

7. People who belittle others

6. Bring It On by Nick Cave

8. People who are greedy 9. Liars

7. The Magic by Joan As The Police Woman 8. Supposed To Be & Long Way Down by Tom Odell

9. Automan by Jamiroquai

What are of your favorite things to eat? One to cook yourself, one to splurge on and one to eat for a late night snack.

10. Tomorrow Til Infinity by Young Thug

1. A homemade sandwich with fresh sourdough bread

of your favorite things to watch:

2. Sushi

1. Peaky Blinders

3. A croissant in Paris

2. Ozark

4. Oysters

3. Narcos-season 1 4. Any animal documentary narrated by David Attenbough 5. Californiacation 7. Weeds

You have a super power that

8. Billions

allows you to visit any

of your inspirational heroes

places

immediately, what are those 1. New Zealand

3. Jesus

2. Tibet

1. Givenchy Handbag

4. People who win the Nobel Peace Prize, any and all of them

3. Japan

5. People who show kindness to their fellow man

5. Norway

1. Doctor's Without Boarders 2. Humanitarian relief workers in warn torn countries

places for you?

4. Maldive Islands

6. Scientists trying to find a cure for cancer

issues you think deserve more world attention: 1. Global Warming 2. Social Inequality 3. Poverty

6.Anything homemade 7.

6. Arrested Development

5. Cold pasta

the

What is Googled?

essential items in your wardrobe: 2. Rick Owens cropped black suit pants 3. Stella McCartney black 3/4 lengeth coat 4. Y3 Pure Boost Trainers

last thing you

- Tickets for the Margaret Cho stand up show Fresh Off the Boat

things you never leave the house without: 1. Phone 2. Headphones

AUDIENCE HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT THE IDEA OF BEING A PART OF A CULTURE WHERE WE CONSTANTLY NEED STIMULATION? Speak on today's youth culture. Where do you stand in it, what is your role in it?

It’s kind of shitty that I can’t ever sit down and get something done thoroughly; I’m so used to immediacy. I definitely have regrets from times when I didn’t realize how much stimulation people need nowadays…but now I’m way too far caught in it, so I just have to work with it. Two things. One, we still haven’t gotten to a great place. I think people who’ve come from less privileged backgrounds have gotten greater voices and there’s definitely a ton of opportunity, but we’re still super elitist. And the nature of power within our youth culture can be very often misogynistic. Two, today’s youth culture is weird. Nobody wants to label anything so everyone’s stuck in a grey area; it’s probably better that way, though. Sometimes I feel like an outsider to it, to be honest. Or a guru, I honestly can’t tell.

-JOSEPH

I love this idea that you can be an influencer whether it be in fashion, art, music, films or just in every day life. The question for your generation, however, is the following: Do you want to have real influence or just be famous? I see a lot of “influencers” who have nothing to say or show. Be careful that you don't dilute your senses by following vapid influencers. It's not just the size of your network or how many likes you get on Instagram, it's about your capacity to impact the actions and the opinions of others with substance, meaning and originality. My fear is that too many influencers are self serving and inane. It's a very exciting time to be young. Generation Y & Z are more globally aware, better informed. More socially conscious and kinder to each other, at least that is my view of who you are. Via social media, you all have a chance to have your voices heard. Use it wisely and for the greater good. For fear of sounding too cliché: This is your chance to make the world a better place. Generation Y inspire me to be fearless, to be myself!

-LAURA