Welcome to Cambodia! A heart-shaped country nurtured by the Mekong, it once ruled the delta as a mighty empire. A lost civilisation, cloaked in legends and myths, it has re- emerged as a hot destination on the Asian trail. Run for the hills in Cambodia’s northeast and steer elephants to cascading water- falls; drink with the indigenous hill tribes and explore their sacred and primitive burial sites as the sun climbs over pristine forests at Mondulkiri ( p236 ) and Ratanakiri ( p233 )