en j oy gardening SUMMER 2010
Cultivate the gardener in you.
S U M M E R 2010
FRONT ENTRANCE MAKEOVERS First impressions that speak your language TAPA THE WORLD! Small bites with BIG flavou Expand your horizons with WALL GARDENS
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Jim Hole’s
Cultivate Life in St. Albert
As Alberta’s Botanical Arts City, St. Albert embodies a sustainable living philosophy. A community renowned for its botanical arts, its commitment to a green lifestyle and the cultivation of activities that provide for a well-rounded quality of life.
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Cultivate the gardener in you with a free package of sweet peas! Visit www.visitstalbert.com and sign up to receive your seeds today!
SU M M ER ISSU E 2010
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The Designs
A Japanese Garden
The Plan
Overgrown and dying trees, hidden front door, 35-year-old bungalow, northern exposure
An authentic Japanese garden has a set of rules that are quite rigid, but that doesn’t mean the owners can’t create a slightly more flexible version that is still inspired by this style. The L-shape of the house lends itself to the creation of a courtyard, a key element in a Japanese garden. Because the house faces north, most of the plantings will benefit from being distanced from the shade of the house. They will also provide a lovely background for the courtyard. The homeowners can put their skills to the test creating many of the hardscaping elements: a fence, a covered gate and a low deck. The boulders, statuary pieces and stepping stones can be purchased.
Wish List: a Japanese-style garden, a seating area and interesting features. The homeowners purchased their 70s bungalow as a fixerupper. Having finished the interior, they are now ready to get to work landscaping the front yard. Since their renovations reflect a clean-lined mission style, they are interested in creating a garden with a complementary Japanese theme. Luckily, the vertical wood cladding on the house is in keeping with a Japanese style. The homeowners want to do most
Assessing the Design Options
of the work themselves, which means spreading it over two
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Landscape Tip Having a water feature in your garden is a plus but may be problematic in a front yard. For safety reasons, it’s best to install a pebble pool—one with a reservoir that is below ground level and that is covered by a layer of pebbles. Inground pond kits can be purchased, or you can make your own using a sturdy plastic pail as the reservoir and some heavy wire mesh to support the pebbles.
or three years, but will need to hire a tree removal service to create a blank slate and hire an electrician to run power to the water basin and lantern features.
Create an Impression
Landscaping for Curb Appeal By Maggie Clayton
Presenting 23 professionally designed landscape plans that allow gardeners the luxury of implementing designs stage‑by-stage according to time, budget and desire. $21.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 256 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-07-6
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What Grows Here? Volume 2: Problems
By Jim Hole
By Jim Hole
Favourite Houseplants for Every Situation
Favorite Plants for Better Yards
Jim Hole takes the guesswork out of caring for houseplants by addressing issues concerning light, water, pests, diseases and more. Complete with full-colour photography and in-depth plant listings, this book gives you the confidence to select the perfect houseplant for every situation.
Brimming with solid advice from one of Canada’s most accomplished gardening professionals, Problems tackles common gardening dilemmas: poor soil, pests, budget concerns and much more. Complete with detailed descriptions of plants you can count on to tackle the garden’s toughest challenges.
$21.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 292 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-06-5
$19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 264 pages • ISBN 1-894728-03-3
What Grows Here? Volume 1: Locations
What Grows Here? Volume 3: Solutions
By Jim Hole
By Jim Hole
Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim Hole and his team of expert horticulturists present tried-and-true advice, examples to help you tailor your gardening approach and hundreds of today’s best plants, chosen to fill every conceivable location in the garden—including trouble spots. $19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 256 pages • ISBN 1-894728-02-5
D IX PR
What Grows Here? Indoors
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Great Gardening Books from Hole’s
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IE NAD N
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enjoy
What Grows Here? Series
“It’s a paradox, but it’s amazing, man” —singer-songwriter, Bill Bourne on Alberta (AV May 2009)
Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim introduces the owners of 13 gardens in different stages of development, discusses the problems each faces and offers his expert advice on selecting the best plants for specific locations and conditions. Novice gardeners and seasoned experts alike will discover how to make a landscape their very own. $19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 264 pages • ISBN 1-894728-05-X
Subscribe today or call us for a free sample issue. www.albertaviews.ab.ca • 403-243-5334
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Lois Hole's Favorite Bulbs Better Choices, Better Gardens By Lois Hole
Lois Hole’s Favorite Bulbs is both an ultimate get started guide for novice gardeners and a comprehensive reference for experienced bulb enthusiasts. Here you’ll find great advice on planting, growing and maintaining flowering bulbs. You'll also find hundreds of tips on where and when to plant, advice on forcing and naturalizing and fascinating sidebars on bulb science and history. $24.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 320 pages • ISBN 1-894728-00-9
Hole's Dictionary of Hardy Perennials The Buyer’s Guide for Professionals, Collectors & Gardeners Edited by Jim Hole
The perennial marketplace is larger than ever, with thousands of species and varieties from which to choose. Keeping track of perennials has become an awesome task—but the experts at Hole’s have a solution. Hole’s Dictionary of Hardy Perennials is the comprehensive guide, perfect for anyone who loves perennials, whether retailer, professional grower, breeder, collector, novice or veteran home gardener. $49.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Hardcover • 356 colour photos • 144 pages • ISBN 1-894728-01-7
Linda Bodo breathes life into the ordinary as she upcycles everyday objects into inspired designs for the home. • Easy-to-follow projects • Concise step by steps, supported by colour photography • Materials lists, timelines, helpful tips and more Whether you have one hour or one weekend, this book has a project to fit you. Inspired, a tistic and easy. The Art of Upcycle turns DIY into DIwise. $21.95 • 9 x 10 • Softcover • Colour • 144 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-09-6 Order online at www.holesonline.com By Phone 1-888-884-6537 By Fax 780-459-6042
Ordering Order these and other Hole’s publications online at www.holesonline.com • By Phone 1-888-884-6537 By Fax 780-459-6042 Hole’s • 101 Bellerose Drive St. Albert, Alberta • T8N 8N8
Also by Linda Bodo $21.95 • 9 x 10 • Softcover • Colour • 144 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-08-9
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reflect relax reconnect
ISSN 1916-095X
SU M M ER 2010
Published by Hole’s Greenhouses & Gardens Magazine Publisher
Jim Hole
Editor-in-Chief
Carmen D. Hrynchuk
Graphic Design
Carol Dragich, Dragich Design
Principal Photography
Akemi Matsubuchi
Photographic Assistant
Brenda Lakeman
Image Management
Jean Coulton
Contributors
Linda Bodo, Roberta Laurie, Jen Sayers Bajger
Staff Writers
Jean Coulton, Bruce Keith
Proofreader
NJ Brown
Floral Design
Lisa Alary, Tikina Gordey
Food Styling
Alexei Boldireff
Advertising & Promotion Printing
Bill Hole
Worldcolor, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Distribution
Disticor Magazine Distribution Services
Hole’s Publishing Staff Publisher
Bill Hole
Publishing Manager
Bruce Timothy Keith
Chief Horticulturist
Jim Hole
Editorial Advisory Group Dave Grice, Olga Jubb, Bruce Keith, Brenda Lakeman, Liz Nobbs, Karen Wilson, Lindsay Zimmer Enjoy Gardening is published twice-yearly by Hole’s Publishing. It is available on newsstands across Canada. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the written consent of the publisher.
For more information on the magazine or advertising, please contact us at: 101 Bellerose Drive St. Albert, Alberta, Canada, T8N 8N8
Telephone 780-419-6800 Facsimile 780-459-6042 Subscriptions 1-888-884-6537
Website www.enjoygardening.com editor@enjoygardening.com advertising@enjoygardening.com
About the Cover Special thanks to Marlene Willis for letting us into her yard with two gnomes and not much of a plan. Photography: Akemi Matsubuchi
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Letter from the Editor
Knowing how to do things is wonderful, but as someone recently reminded me, it’s in the moments of not knowing that we gain new ability. It’s a fantastic truism but one that’s been lost along the gardening path. For some reason, gardening’s acquired the intimidating prerequisite of experience—something that has no bearing on ability, talent or aptitude. Well, it’s time to change that image. To take gardening and to slip it into something a little more comfortable. As we’ve been telling our readers for the last three years, gardening isn’t just about growing vegetables and flowers. It’s about a lifestyle—enjoying little things like the perfect nap in a hammock or what raspberry jam does to peanut butter. It’s about appreciating a glass of wine, the colour of the grapes, the passion of the people who grew them, the romance of the harvest. It’s about you. When we first launched this publication, that idea of reflecting, relaxing and reconnecting was meant to inspire our readers to take the pressure off themselves
and gardening—to find inspiration in what others have done but to stake claim in new experiences and their own definitions of gardening. Most importantly, we wanted our readers to measure their results not by what they had created, but by the thrill of having created it. Those, after all, are the moments when everything is possible; the moments we see the beauty in the things we love. It’s what moves us forward. Keeps us enticed. Invites us to experience more. It’s how all beautiful things are made. In a lot of ways, that’s exactly how I feel about making this magazine. Each time a new spring or summer issue arrives, I gleefully run copies around to everyone in the office and garden centre. And along the way, at least one person excitedly asks if it’s my favourite issue yet. Every time, also without fail, I smile exuberantly and proudly profess, “No.” My favourite issue’s always the one waiting to be made. Enjoy gardening! — Carmen Hrynchuk
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reflect
Plan Learn Discover inspiration points
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Front Entrance Makeovers First impressions that speak your language
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Wine 101 An introduction to the world of wine
the hot list
28
Jim Hole’s Favourite 100 Days of Summer Roll out those crazy, lazy, hazy days
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relax
Entertain Style Entice
reconnect Do Change Enrich
trend spotting
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shift
Aromatherapy
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Awaken your senses and emotions
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Wall Gardens
Container Landscaping From pot to plot—landscape plants pull double-duty
how do you do
Expand your horizons and go vertical
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Tool Obelisk with Linda Bodo
second look
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Rake in the compliments with this upcycled obelisk
Invisible Enlightenment Nature meets infrared photography
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No Stone Unturned with Linda Bodo
floral design
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Design Challenge
Create custom paving stones from fabulous find
Two designers, one bouquet, endless possibilities
recipes
74
Tapa the World! Small servings with big flavou
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the path to enjoy
Enjoy the Future with Bruce Keith
“The future is now,” someone once said, and it’s been repeated often. It used to be when people thought of the future, visions of plastic furniture, flying cars and entire meals in pill form jumped to mind. But these days, the future is computers, instant communication and 24/7 connectivity.
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It’s sometimes hard to imagine what these things have to do with gardening or lifestyle, but as we move toward 2011, we discover in more and more ways that this new view of the future is already here. Companies and individuals alike are communicating and sharing through Twitter, Facebook and other social media. Word of mouth has gone high-tech and is now the hottest thing in advertising, current affairs and plain old keeping in touch. Over the last 20 years, Hole’s has built a reputation for gathering high-quality information and then exploring non-traditional ways (at least in the gardening
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world) of disseminating it. In the early 90s, this meant branching out from newspaper articles and brochures to a book publishing program that, ultimately, sold over 1,000,000 books. By the late 90s, reading trends inspired Hole’s to move into magazine publishing, which at its peak reached 125,000 readers per issue. Ten years of Spring Gardening and three years of this publication have once again brought us to a turning point. Now, in the age of blogs and smartphones, Hole’s is again exploring new ways of expressing old ideas. This magazine will live on, but it too is moving forward to a
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the path to enjoy
i n f or m new reality. Technology platforms like Apple’s iPhone and Google’s Android present unique opportunities to move traditional publishing and information services to a new and more robust form. As a result, we find ourselves looking to build an app that allows us to repurpose and revise materials that have become the de facto standards of gardening in Canada and, at the same time, keep our readers up to date with the newest and the best. We’ll partner this app with a new website that represents our vision of gardening as part of a lifestyle that includes
entertainment, trends, wellness, community and sustainability—everything that encompasses our Enjoy mandate. Then we’ll all be able to sit back and say to ourselves, “The future is now!” Of course, it won’t happen all at once. Growing things can sometimes be difficult—just look at all the people who claim to have “black thumbs.” But I’ve always believed it’s not the person who makes a black thumb, it’s the person’s attitude. Here at Hole’s, growing has meant having to change pretty much every aspect of our
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ma tion environment. From job titles to product lines, the garden we’ve been tending for so many years has been tilled up and turned over until some of us no longer recognize it. But if every growing process has pains, they rarely stop us. Like parents watching their children struggle, we know the process is worth the effort. And through all this, a new home has slowly emerged over the last year, and we can finally start filling it. We’ve planted the seeds and can settle down and begin growing a new experience. From computers and e-mail
to traditional person-to-person contact, this experience holds so much promise. And like all things good, it’s hard to know exactly what the harvest will be. But like all good gardens, there’s nothing as satisfying as tending it. We’ve always believed the enjoyment of gardening is about more than what you make; it’s about gardeners themselves growing in mind, body and spirit alongside the plants. Our vision for the future seeks to make everyone better gardeners, and, this time, not just in the garden.
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reflect
Plan Learn Discover
inspiration points
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Front Entrance Makeovers First impressions that speak your language
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20
Modern Contemporary Formal Fresh Country
Wine 101
21 24 26
An introduction to the world of wine
The Art of Grape Growing Knowing Your Grapes Demystifying the Wine List the hot list
28
Jim Hole’s Favourite 100 Days of Summer Roll out those crazy, lazy, hazy days
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inspiration points
Front Entrance Makeovers First impressions that speak your language
There’s no denying the importance of a first impression. And with porches and patios becoming the new “fifth rooms,” there’s no better time to make them shine. To show you how, we’ve taken one front entrance and given it three different looks: one contemporary, one fresh country and one traditional. So start here and get a feel for the basics. From tips on colour palettes to the principles of proportion and balance, we’ve got everything you need to create a entrance with style—yours!
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inspiration points
Modern Contemporary Contemporary designs are all about clean lines. But our makeover relied on restraint as much as any other design principle. To create your own contemporary look, follow our tips and prepare to impress. Here’s how. The colour palette
The plant material
The accessories
To create a contemporary look, start with a neutral or monochromatic palette, then select an unexpected colour for an accent. We woke up our neutrals with a blast of lime green.
Two tall, tapered containers create the perfect homes for the dracaenas that anchor each side of the entranceway. Tropical plants are often overlooked for outdoor use, but give them the right conditions, and they enjoy a summer outdoors as much as you do.
• Oversized, tapered planters
The principles of proportion
In simplest terms, proportion refers to the harmonious relationship between elements in a composition with respect to size, height, width and depth. Still sound confusing? Well, here are a few examples to help you understand. • Define the physical space you wish to decorate. Our front entrance included the steps of the landing, as well as everything in front of and around the door. • Create shape agreement between the elements you’re working with. In other words, the shape of one design element should fit the shape of its adjoining element. For example, when a large
• Concrete ‘serenity’ benches with lime-green cushion • Cape Cod rug • Extra-large black house numbers • Sleek, black mailbox
container is dotted with a tiny plant, those elements are considered out of proportion. • Create major and minor areas in your design. When all elements in a design are equal in terms of size, it creates a monotonous and, often, boring effect. Be careful, though, to ensure that the size difference of your elements is not so extreme that they no longer relate to one another. • Think about scale. Make your plant containers fit the size of the door they’re framing or the steps they’re sitting on. As a general rule, planted containers placed next to an entranceway should be three-quarters the height of the door.
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When creating a contemporary look, it’s important to choose containers with clean lines and little-to-no embellishment. These oversized, granite-inspired pots fit the bill perfectly while conforming to the neutral colour palette. Dracaena ‘Limelight’ is an easy-to-grow tropical that’s perfectly happy to spend its summers outdoors. Just be sure to keep it out of direct sunlight (it will scorch the leaves) and in temperatures no lower than 15°C. Note that the colour of the long bright-green leaves will also be less intense in higher light. As an indoor specimen, this low-maintenance plant is a great choice for homes or offices. Indoors it also performs well in lower light. Height: up to 3 m; width: 60–90 cm.
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inspiration points
Formal There’s no denying the presence of a formal design. For our version, we chose a symmetrical design to reinforce the formal theme and emphasize our door as the focal point. Now it’s your turn to try. Here’s how. The colour palette
The plant material
To create a formal look, start by selecting a strong traditional colour, such as the deep red we chose. The richness of the colour is important in that it creates a visual strength and value that complements the strong greens and black that complete this colour palette.
A pair of pyramidal and globe cedars may seem like a lot of greenery for a front landing, but that rich base of colour gives this design a feeling of formality and elegance. The structured shape of the evergreens also emphasizes its formality. Red chrysanthemums inject a shot of saturated colour while the uniformity of their tight blooms mimic the well-groomed structure of the cedars.
The principles of symmetrical balance
Symmetry in design produces formal balance, a feeling of permanence and a sense of stability. It is accomplished by distributing elements evenly around a vertical axis. It is the simplest type of balance to recognize and create. Here’s how. • Mirror elements to create balance. Repeating similar shapes in a similar position on either side of a vertical axis creates a mirror image. This type of visual organization suggests the idea of strength and stability.
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The accessories • Black urns • Black pots • Wrought-iron-inspired rubber mat • Victorian mailbox • Wrought-iron-inspired chair • Reddish-orange chair cushion
• Create an instant focal point. Symmetrical compositions create and instant emphasis on the element placed in the central axis. For this front entrance makeover, that focal point was the door. • Vary elements to create approximate symmetry. Pure symmetry lacks tension and, therefore, can sometimes slip into monotony. So if you like the look of symmetry but crave a little more interest, try approximate symmetry. It still creates a repetitious relationship on each side of the composition but will vary enough to create an added visual interest.
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The ornate pattern and silky lustre of the cushion we chose are a perfect complement to the style of chair it sits on. The unexpectedness of using an elegant fabric outdoors also adds interest to this symmetrical design.
Lustrous green foliage makes ‘Emerald’ a well-named cedar. Immature specimens are well suited for container displays, while a hedge is a perfect site to let this compact pyramidal cedar grow to its mature size It’s a fast-growing cedar that retains its shape as it matures. Prefers moist soil. Height: 3–4 m; width: 1–2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.
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inspiration points
Fresh Country The inviting charm and casual feel of a country design is timeless. But that doesn’t mean it has to be dated. With some careful editing and a refined colour palette, we created a fresh take on this old favourite. Here’s how.
The colour palette
The plant material
The accessories
To create a fresh country look, begin with a canvas of green foliage. Besides making a great neutral, a mass of green plant material is perfect for showcasing a fresh country palette of bright and happy colours. We chose pinks and oranges.
Too often, country-inspired looks are synonymous with chaos. To keep our design focused, we selected plant material that felt naturalized yet structured. Airy plums of ‘Aubrum’ pennisetum hint at a prairie feel yet avoid the cliché. Adding visual weight at the base of the pennisetum are cascading mounds of ‘Tiki Hot Pink’ calibrachoa and velvety-green plecanthus. The pink theme is repeated in ‘Galleria Pink Punch’ geraniums, which spill over the tops of their galvanized containers.
• Galvanized buckets for containers • Wicker chair with floral cushio • Sisal rug • Homemade house number mounted on a wooden block • Wicker mailbox basket • Tree stumps
The principles of unity
Unity is the hallmark of good design. When achieved, it creates a sense of order and the appearance of completeness. To accomplish that within your design, follow these basic tips and principles. • Pick a theme and communicate it clearly. Be critical of your design. Any elements that deviate from your theme (colour palette, etc.) should be edited. The relationship between your design elements should be so strong that removing even one weakens the theme. • Create balance through visual weight and symmetry. Equally distributing the visual weight of objects
throughout your space is one way to achieve balance. For our three looks, we divided our elements so that visual weight on either side of the front door would be equal. • Use repetition to create similarity. Repeat colours, textures, shapes and lines. • Focus on alignment. Arrange your elements so that the lines or edges of one shape lead into the lines and edges of another. Elements that are positioned close to one another suggest relationship and a sense of belonging.
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inspiration points
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WINE
1O1 An introduction to the world of wine Wine continues to grow in popularity, but selecting the right bottle is still intimidating for most consumers. With hundreds of producers and thousands of wines, it’s difficult to know what to buy. So if you know what you like but can’t call it by name, now’s the time to learn a bit more. From knowing your grapes to demystifying a wine menu, we’ve got the basics to get you started.
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inspiration points
The Art of Grape Growing
There are around 10,000 grape varietals used for winemaking, but, of these, perhaps only a dozen are well known to most consumers. Although each produces wine with a series of general traits, soil, climate, location and growing practices play such an important role that one cannot count on the grape varietal to dictate the quality or characteristics of a wine. Here’s what you need to know.
Climate
Location
Grapes are a temperate crop. They grow well in regions with dry summers and mild winters. Most of the popular modern-day winemaking varietals originated around the Mediterranean but now thrive in South Africa, Southern Australia, other areas of Europe, much of South America, New Zealand, the Balkans, the United States and the milder regions of Canada.
The Chardonnay grape offers a good example of the importance that location and winemaking practices play in influencing the taste of a grape varietal. Chardonnay grapes grown around the village of Chablis in the Burgundy region of France live on a bed of limestone soil rich in oyster shells and fossils. Given the appellation of Chablis, the wine produced in this region is distinctive for its flavour. Chablis smells of green apples and is best described as crisp, dry, even “steely,” with a refreshing acidity. The area of Meursault is believed to produce some of the finest white wine in France. The soil around Meursault is a stony, chalky limestone marl. Wine given the appellation of Meursault is made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes grown with an east or southeast exposure. However, where Chablis is crisp and refreshing, Meursault has a nutty scent and is lush, mellow and buttery.
Soil Grapevines grow in a wide range of soil conditions, from light sand to limestone. It’s even said that grapes grow best in poor soils, and there’s much truth to this. Poorer soils restrict vegetative growth and allow flavour to develop in the grape toward the end of the growing season. Common to all varietals is the need for good drainage. Water-logged plants lead to cracked fruit and, ultimately, fungal and bacterial contamination. Porous soils allow for drainage. They also encourage heat absorption and tend to reflect sunlight, creating ideal microclimates that nurture the grapes to maturity.
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Science & Technology
Terroir (pronounced “ter-wah”) is defined as the relationship between the grape varietal and the variables that go into growing and making a great wine: sun exposure, terrain, wind, soil composition and the estate’s winemaking practices.
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inspiration points
K n o w i n g Yo u r G r a p e s
In general, dark-skinned grapes make red wine, and light-skinned grapes make white. But this is not always the case. Red wine is made by allowing the juice to macerate with the skins, enabling the tannins (a natural preservative) to permeate the juice. Rosé is produced by allowing less time for maceration. White wine can be produced from a dark-skinned grape by removing the skins and not allowing them to macerate at all. A good example of a white wine made with dark grapes is the White Zinfandel, a much lighter, sweeter, fruitier wine than its red counterpart. The Who’s Who Chardonnay is a green grape used to make white wine. Although it originated in France, it is now grown throughout the winemaking world. Chardonnays range in flavour from crisp and fresh to rich and oaken. Wines given the appellation White Burgundy, Chablis and Meursault are all made from the Chardonnay grape. Sauvignon Blanc is a green-skinned varietal originally from the Bordeaux region of France. Cuttings of the plant were brought to California in the 1880s, and it has since spread to many countries. Sauvignon Blanc wines are characteristically acidic and, therefore, tart and zesty, even when made into dessert wines. When produced in Bordeaux, it is often blended with Semillon to soften its naturally aggressive character. The Chenin Blanc varietal originated in the Loire Valley of France but is now also grown with success in South Africa, California and other wine-growing regions. Chenin Blanc produces a crisp, dry white wine; however, it is often left on the vine to develop noble rot, a naturally occurring fungus that concentrates the grape’s natural sugars, making it ideal for producing dessert wines.
The Pinot Noir is a demanding red-skinned grape requiring consistently warm days followed by cool nights. It is grown with great success in the Burgundy region of France, where it is known as Red Burgundy. It’s also grown in British Columbia, California, Italy and other regions with varying degrees of success. A good Pinot Noir will have a distinctive spiciness and a silky texture with an aroma of raspberries. Cabernet Sauvignon requires a long growing season in a semi-arid climate. It is one of the grape varietals grown in the Bordeaux region of France and is also successfully grown in California. The wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon can smell of blackberries and black cherries. Its flavour hints of cedar and, sometimes, of green pepper. Merlot is the most widely grown red grape in the Bordeaux region of France. It is also grown in California, Chile and Australia. Merlot is usually made into red wine but can also be used to produce White Merlot. Merlot is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon. It has similar flavours to Cabernet Sauvignon but is less acidic and more herbaceous.
Living in a cold climate can make grape growing and winemaking seem impossible. But as new cultivars become available, more possibilities become practicable for gardeners living in challenging climates. ‘Frontenac’ is a vigorous red-wine grape with excellent disease resistance. Self-pollinating, it produces heavy quantities in massive fruit clusters. Frontenac produces white blooms in late spring and fruit in August. This varietal is good for making juice and wine. Grapes require deep, well-drained soil. For best results use winter protection. Prune yearly. Height: 1–1.5 m; spread: 1–1.5 m. Sun. (Opposite page) enjoygardening 25
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inspiration points
Demystifying the Wine List For the average consumer, a typical wine list is far from user friendly. Traditionally, wines are listed under sparkling, white, red, or dessert or categorized according to country of origin or grape varietal—not much to go on. To help remove some of the mystery, don’t be afraid to ask your waiter for advice on food pairing. He or she should have an intimate familiarity with the menu and know which selections are best suited to your order. If you do, however, find yourself faced with a cryptic menu and an inexperienced waiter, it’s best to be prepared. Here are the basics to help you along.
White Wines
Red Wines
Chablis goes well with grilled salmon, poultry, lobster and shellfish. Chardonnay is popular for good reason. It pairs well with a variety of dishes, such as cream sauces with chicken, pork or shrimp, as well as with Caribbean cuisine, shellfish and brie cheese. Avoid pairing with tomato sauces, steak and wild game. Chenin Blanc pairs well with salads, rice dishes, sushi, seafood and poultry. Pinot Grigio is best served with turkey, veal and shrimp or recipes with a cream sauce. Avoid pairing with tomato sauces and spicy dishes. Riesling works with many foods, including fish dishes and most cheeses. It also combines well with complex, spicy foods. Sauvignon Blanc goes well with pork, lamb, goose or shellfish and can hold its own with goat or smoked cheese and food containing tomatoes, bell peppers, cilantro or garlic. Sauvignon Blanc also pairs well with both Greek and Caesar salads.
Cabernet Sauvignon is a versatile wine that pairs well with red meat, lamb, strongly flavoured cheeses and dark chocolate. Avoid serving with tomatoes and fish. Chianti tastes great with pizza or pasta in a tomato-based sauce. Merlot is very versatile and can be served with beef, pork, poultry, salads, tomato pasta dishes and chocolate. Pinot Noir goes particularly well with grilled salmon, roast beef, lamb, goose and mushroomflavoured dishes. Avoid pairing with very spicy foods. Shiraz/Syrah is a bold wine and goes well with peppered steak, sausage, stews, roast turkey, pasta in cream sauce and aged cheddar. Avoid serving with fish. Zinfandel is robust, so it can be served with grilled steak, burgers, pizza, tomato pasta dishes and many cheeses.
Three Steps to Tasting Wine 1. See. The best way to examine the colour of a wine is to pour it into a clear glass filled no more tha one-third full. Next, tilting the glass, hold it in front of white background (such as a napkin or tablecloth). As you look at your wine, you’ll notice the colour will vary tremendously from variety to variety. White wines will range from green to yellowybrown, while reds will vary from pale red to deep brownish-red. When examining your wine, take time to also observe its rim colour (the colour around the edges of the wine). A brown-to-orange tint in a red wine may indicate maturity, while a purple tint may indicate youth. Wine should also be examined for clarity. 2. Sniff. Hold the glass by its stem and swirl the wine to help release its aroma. Next, take a deep, short sniff and make note of what you smell. It may be difficult t describe the subtleties at first but with practice you’ll be able to detect hints of aromas such as fruit, spices, herbs—even chocolate and leather. If the wine smells like vinegar, varnish, must or mould, it has gone bad and should not be drunk. 3. Sip. Although wine tasting is very subjective, there is technique involved in appreciating the full taste of a wine. To enjoy the full experience, take your time and break the tasting into three stages: the initial taste, the taste and the aftertaste. This will allow you to critique the overall flavour and balance of the wine. As you roll the first sip through your mouth allow it to reach all your tongue’s receptors: sweetness at the tip of your tongue, bitterness at the back, sour on the sides. Once swallowed, note the wine’s finish—its aftertaste. Was the last flavour enjoyable, or did it leave a bitter or acidy taste in your throat? Was it light bodied, medium bodied or full bodied? Most importantly, did you enjoy it enough to take another sip? enjoygardening 27
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the hot list
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Days of Summer Roll out those crazy, lazy, hazy days Gardening is a passion I share with many of you. But as we all know, it’s not difficult to lose sight of that passion in the hustle and bustle that is summer. Perhaps part of the challenge has to do with our compressed Canadian growing season, which leaves some of us with less than 100 days of gardening. Whatever the reasons, they’re about to change. To help you make the most of your summer, we’ve tackled its crazy, lazy and hazy phases and come up with plants and ideas to kindle your passion not only for gardening but also for sharing that enthusiasm with others. Of course, we’ve also included tips to minimize your workload and maximize your efforts. We’re sure this list will help you enjoy your 100 days of summer!
Jim Hole
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Dahlia
Dahlia ‘Café au Lait’
The stunning dinner-plate sized flowers on ‘Café au Lait’ are a gorgeous shade that isn’t often seen. This dahlia produces an abundance of rich, creamy-coloured flowers on each plant. Dahlias are traditional favourites that make superb garden displays and are marvellous as cutflowers. Blooms from summer to frost. Remember to lift dahlia roots in the fall and to store them in a cool, dark location so they can be replanted the following spring. Height: 1 m. Sun.
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Days of Summer
Crazy Days The frenzy of planting and preparing for the season is highly satisfying, but the workload can feel daunting as the last days of spring meld into summer. Of course, effort at this point will reduce the overall workload and generate great results later in summer. This is also the time to reconnect, so don’t forget to enjoy the freshness of the season and its early blooming offerings. Honeyberry
Lonicera edulis var. kamtschatica ‘Svetlana’
Keep a close eye on the birds when these berries begin to ripen, or you may get left empty handed. In fact, it’s best to put netting over the plants as soon as the elongated, blueberrylike fruits begin to show colour. Fruit flesh turns from reen to purple when fully ripe and is at its sweetest in mid to late June. ‘Svetlana’ produces large 2–3 cm berries, which make excellent jam. As with all honeyberries, you will need to plant another variety for cross-pollination. The best pollinators are ’Blue Belle’ or ‘Borealis.’ Height: 1–1.8 m; width: 1.2–1.5 m. Sun. Peony
Paeonia ‘Auguste Dessert’
Peonies are the perfect flowers to bridge the gap between late spring and early summer. Besides being an investment that will yield years of wonderful returns, these long-lived perennials are easy to grow and rarely need division. ‘Auguste Dessert’ features semi-double, light-pink flowers in spring. Plant so that root eyes are at a depth of 5 cm or less. Any deeper and the peony will not bloom. High-nitrogen fertilizers will also inhibit flowering. Height: 75 cm; spacing: 75–90 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Lady’s Slipper
Cypripedium calceolus var. pubescens
Study the distinctive, slipper-shaped flowers of Cypripediums and you’ll have a great clue to their botanic lineage. If you haven’t already guessed, they’re related to orchids. As is the case with tropical orchids, lady’s slippers can be challenging to cultivate. However, this particular variety will thrive in a woodland garden that has dappled sunlight and organically rich, slightly alkaline soil. Just remember to keep it moist. Spring blooming; colony forming. Height: 25–40 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.
Quick Tip
Position support rings or stakes around your dahlias at the time of planting. Waiting until later in the season means running the risk of damaging the roots or even breaking new growth. Peonies should also be supported early in the season.
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Rhododendron
Rhododendron ‘Haaga’ and ‘Hellikki’
Rhododendrons are at their prime when in flower from late spring to early summer. The showy flower clusters of ‘Haaga’ are deep pink, whereas ‘Hellikki’ has red flowers. Both varieties were developed in Finland and are hardy to –34°C. Nevertheless, to help overwinter, plant them in a sheltered site with snow cover. Evergreen. Needs acidic soil and moist conditions. ‘Hellikki ’ height: 1–1.5 m; width: 1–1.5 m. ‘Haaga’ height: 1.5–2 m; width: 1.5–2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.
Tulip
Tulip
If you’d like a tulip that’s a little out of the ordinary, look no further than this regal specimen. The blooms of double-flowering hybrids, such as ‘Orange Princess,’ look much different than single-blooming varieties. The deep-orange petals flamed with purple provide a stunning show of colour in early spring. Let foliage die back before removing, otherwise the tulip bulbs won’t have enough stored energy to produce blooms the following season. Height: 20–30 cm. Sun.
This early-spring-blooming tulip is a superb choice for any rock garden. Species tulips generally have smaller, more open blooms, shorter statures and smaller bulbs than hybrid tulips. This one has fragrant, purplish-rose flowers with yellow bases. Ensure these tulips have adequate moisture in spring or the flowerbuds won’t develop. Provide a well-drained site. Height: 10 cm. Sun.
Tulipa ‘Orange Princess’
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Tulipa humilis ( var. pulchella)
Petchoa, Supercal Series
Petunia x calibrachoa ‘Neon Rose’
What’s not to admire about these newcomers on the annual scene? They’re sun loving, wind and rain tolerant and quite forgiving of being dry between waterings (although too much stress will reduce flower numbers). Flowers in the Supercal series are semidouble and bloom prolificall . Mounding and semi-trailing habit. Height: 25–30 cm; trails to 60 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
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Days of Summer Vegetables Artichoke
Cynara scolymus ‘Green Globe’
Artichokes are gourmet vegetables that can double as ornamentals in your yard with their bold thistle-like foliage. In fact, if you allow the buds to bloom, they look like over-sized thistle flowers. or eating, harvest the unopened, scaled globes in mid August. ‘Green Globe’ produces extremely thick and flavou ful hearts with the rich, nutty taste artichokes are prized for. Height: up to 1.5 m; spacing: 90 cm. Sun.
Chives
Allium schoenoprasum
Chives are one of the finest flavoured members of the onion family. They’re also one of the easiest-to-grow plants in the garden. Besides being delicious, the cylindrical, hollow leaves and globe-shaped flowers are decorative, hardy and virtually pest and disease free. You’ll notice more intense flavour if the chives receive less water. Divide this perennial every three years to maintain plant vigour. They also grow well indoors. Height: 20–60 cm; width: 30–40 cm. Sun.
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Jerusalem Artichoke
Kohlrabi
There aren’t many hardy perennial vegetables, but Jerusalem artichoke is one. It’s grown for its small potato-like tubers that have a nutty flavou . However, despite its common name, this plant isn’t related to the artichoke. It actually belongs to the sunflower family and is native to North America. Its chocolate-scented yellow flowers will also add an unexpected ornamental value to the garden. Harvest tubers in fall. Height: up to 3 m; spacing: 45 cm. Sun.
Crunchy kohlrabi is an easy-to-grow, but not-that-common, vegetable. It’s often thought of as a root vegetable, but the edible portion that grows above the soil is actually an enlarged segment of the stem. The plant belongs to the Brassica or crucifer family, whose members are known for their high levels of healthful sulphurcontaining phytochemicals. Eat fresh, or cook as you would turnip. ‘Pheres’ is an early maturing variety. Kohlrabi prefers cool weather and can tolerate light frost, so plant it early. Height: 15–30 cm: spacing: 8–15 cm. Sun.
Helianthus tuberosus ‘Challenger’
Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes ‘Pheres’
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Expert Advice For some people, weeding is therapeutic. For the rest of us, it’s a chore. Unfortunately, it’s also a chore that shouldn’t be ignored. Doing so will allow the weeds to go to seed, which will mean even more work the following year. So remove weeds when they’re small and easiest to eliminate.
Quick Plant A Row, Grow A Row Tip
Participate in Plant A Row, Grow A Row. It’s a brilliant program that encourages gardeners to set aside a little garden space to grow a few vegetables for the food bank. And therein lies the beauty of the program: one doesn’t need to convert an entire yard to make an impact on hunger. All it takes is some collective spirit. If a lot of people dedicate a small corner to a few hills of potatoes or a small row of carrots, it translates into a lot of vegetables for feeding a lot of people. Contact your local food bank and find out what produce they’d like to have
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Days of Summer Leek
Allium porrum ‘Ashton’
Leeks have a distinct growth pattern that dictates how they should be planted. The leaves consistently emerge opposite each other and directly above the previous leaf set. So, to make the best use of your space and to avoid tangling, transplant them so that the leaves of each leek are parallel to the leaves of the next plant. In late summer, the edible white shafts will be 15–20 cm in length. Spacing: 10–15 cm. Sun. Banana Pepper
Capsicum annuum ‘Flexum’
Besides being spectacularly attractive, ‘Flexum’ is a thick-walled crunchy pepper that never tastes bitter. As it reaches maturity, this pepper changes from ivory to yellow to orange and, finall , to red. Tastiest and sweetest when red, but can be eaten once it has turned yellow. Peppers average 15 cm in length. Performs well in containers. Height: 60 cm; width: 30 cm. Sun. Tomato
Lycopersicon esculentum ‘Minimato’
If you’ve got limited space, can’t wait to taste a fresh tomato or are fascinated by novelty plants, try ‘Minimato.’ It’s a dwarf cherry tomato with fern-like foliage and very sweet fruits that mature early. Mature plants, sold in greenhouses, have been specially pruned to achieve the bonsai-like form and don’t need further pruning or support. Over a two-month period, each plant will yield 40–50 tomatoes, each weighing 11–13 gm. In addition, Minimato plants can be grown indoors during summer months, provided they receive direct sunlight in a south-facing window. Height: 35 cm. Sun. Tomato
Lycopersicon esculentum ‘Red Pear’ and ‘Yellow Pear’
Quick Tip
Corn is my favourite vegetable, but, with limited space, I can never grow enough to satisfy my craving. So, as summer comes to an end, I start scouting for my favourite corn at farmers’ markets. For optimum garden-fresh taste, buy early in the day and cook as soon as possible.
In the what’s-old-is-new-again category, check out these pear-shaped gems that have a mild, sweet flavou . ‘Red Pear’ and ‘Yellow Pear’ are heirloom tomatoes that date back to the 1700s and 1800s, respectively. Both varieties bear heavy crops of small fruits (3–5 cm long) borne in clusters. Each variety requires pruning and staking and takes 70–80 days to mature. Height: 1–2 m. Sun.
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Lazy Days The height of summer really is the time to revel in your garden or someone else’s. It’s also when many plants are at their prime and, sometimes equally satisfying, when garden to-do jobs are few and and primarily maintenance related. That means more time to relax! The widest variety of fresh produce is also available at this time of the year, so look to these plants and tips for inspiration. Annuals Argyranthemum, Madeira Series
Argyranthemum frutescens ‘Double Blush’
This annual is also known as a cobbity or marguerite daisy. But no matter what you call it, what you’re going to remember are the mounds of flowers it produces throughout the summer. The Madeira series has compact, well-branched plants with darkgrey-green foliage. And their double, 4 cm blooms are known for their longevity. Keep them moist and you’ll be rewarded up until frost with profuse blooms. Height: 30–45 cm; width: 40–50 cm. Sun. Baby’s Breath, Gypsy Series
Gypsophila muralis ‘Deep Rose’
It may be short in stature, but this baby’s breath is certainly not short on blooms. You’ll get masses of tiny, double, dark-rose flowers throughout the summe . This annual baby’s breath will also maintain its compact, mounding form throughout the growing season. An excellent selection for containers or short borders. Height: 25–30 cm; spacing: 30 cm. Sun. Begonia Boliviensis ‘Elegance’
Begonia boliviensis ‘Million Kisses Elegance’
Abundant blooms blanket this begonia all season long. Show off these elegant, downward-facing flowers in a han ing basket or mixed planter. Either type of container will also accommodate the mounding and trailing habit of this annual. Boliviensis begonias also feature fleshy pink stems and long, narrow leaves with serrated edges. Height: 20–30 cm; spacing: 20–30 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
African Daisy, Spring Flash Series
Arctotis ‘Orange’
Add a cheerful touch to your garden with these boldly coloured African daisies. They have big, dark eyes surrounded by a flash of orange petals and are impressive performers in hot, dry conditions. As an annual groundcover, they look striking planted en masse. Single blooms are each about 8 cm in diameter. Height: 25–30 cm; spacing: 10–15 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. 36 enjoygardening
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Days of Summer Browallia
Browallia speciosa major ‘Blue Bells’
If you want magnificent blooms in a shady spot, look no further than browallia. Its prolific bluebell-like flowers are each 3 c in diameter and a deep shade of violet that can’t be missed. The rounded, bush-like form of this annual also makes it well suited to hanging baskets or containers. Height: 25–30 cm; spacing: 15–20 cm. Shade to a.m. sun. Vegetative Coleus
Solenostemon ‘Henna’
Vegetative coleus flourishes in the sun, which means this beauty will shine no matter where it’s grown. The leaf edges of this variety look as though they’ve been trimmed with pinking shears, thereby creating a distinctive textural quality. Adding to the distinctive quality are henna-coloured marks on the lime-green leaf tops and solid-henna undersides. Height: 55–70 cm; spacing: 35–45 cm. Sun or shade. Cordyline
Cordyline australis ‘Red Star’
Add height and texture to planters or borders with this exceptional plant. Its sword-shaped and ruby-to-burgundy foliage creates a superb focal point, and it can be overwintered indoors to create an even larger specimen the following year. To do so, keep it in a cool, but bright, sunlit room. Height: up to 80 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Daisy
Chrysanthemum paludosum ‘Snowland’
Few things are better in the world than this annual daisy on a sunny day. It has excellent drought tolerance yet produces a storm of blooms. Each of the single white flowers with yellow centres is about 4 cm in diameter. They’re impressive in mass displays and just as grand as accents in planters. Height: 15 cm; spacing: 15–20 cm. Sun. Miniature Fuchsia, Sunbeam Series
Fuchsia ‘Rocky’
Miniature fuchsias have a showy yet elegant appeal, and ‘Rocky’ is no exception. Its petite dangling blooms are bold pink and purple. Showcase this profusely blooming annual in a hanging basket, or add it to a mixed planter. Provide with a sheltered location out of the wind and hot sun. Height: 30–50 cm; trails: 30–60 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.
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Lantana, Landmark Series
Lantana camara ‘Citrus’
Add zing to your plantings with the vivid colours of this lantana. It’s an outstanding annual with dense clusters of golden-yellow to orange blooms. Flowers are fully double, and the plants are bushy and mounded. Whether in hanging baskets, containers or flowerbeds, lantana will attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Height: 5–50 cm; width: up to 60 cm. Sun.
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Mandevilla, Sun Parasol Pretty Series
Mandevilla splendens ‘Pretty Crimson’
Mandevillas in this series are known for their compact, bushy forms. Plants are as vigorous as those in the Sun Parasol Giant series but have smaller leaves and flowers. Grow them in a hot location for optimum performance. Can be overwintered indoors near a sunny window. Height: up to 1.2 m; width: 20–30 cm. Sun.
Passion Vine
Passiflora hybrida ‘Sapphire’
Indulge your passion for the exotic with this vine. Curly purple-and-white flower filaments not only make thi annual stand out but also serve the practical purpose of directing pollinators to the flowers’ centres. The blooms on this variety are each 5–10 cm in diameter. Fertilize weekly to encourage flowering throughout the summer. Can be overwintered indoors in a sunny spot. Height: up to 1.8 m. Sun.
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Days of Summer Petunia, Supertunia Series
Petunia x hybrida ‘Raspberry Blast’
Maxing & Relaxing
Poppy
• Visit a farmers’ market. They’re one of summer’s greatest pleasures and a fantastic way to taste the season’s best. Fresh produce, baking, cheeses, meats and honey await, so do some research and find the ones near you
Add a blast of colour to your hanging baskets or containers with this bright petunia. Supertunias are prolific bloomers, and this variety is no exception. It’s also a fast grower with a vigorous trailing habit, as are all the petunias in this series. Single flowers are 6-8 cm in diamete . Prefers sun but will tolerate light shade. Height: 20–25 cm; width: 1–1.2 m. Sun to p.m. sun.
Papaver rhoeas ‘Shirley Double’
Delicate tissue-like flowers are the trademark of this outstanding performer. Available either as seeds or annual sets, in a mix of bright-red, white, salmon and pink flowers. he large 7–10 cm blooms have white centres and are individually borne on pipecleaner-like stems. These poppies readily self-seed and are an ideal choice for a wildflower or English garden. Height: 40–50 cm; width: 20–30 cm. Sun. Purple Heart ‘Variegated’
Setcreasea pallida ‘Variegata’
Double your options by using this versatile annual as either a groundcover or a trailer in a container. It’s popular because of its vibrant-pink and dark-purple leaves and its fast rate of growth. May produce flowers, which are mauve and relatively insignificant. Height: 30 cm; spacing: 40–50 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Rudbeckia
Rudbeckia ‘Tiger Eye Gold’
Rising up to the challenge of hot locations, this annual rudbeckia produces a dense canopy of flowers. ‘ iger Eye’s’ large, semi-double flowers are long-lasting, and the plant is compact. Excellent in mass displays, medium-tall borders or as a feature plant in a container. Height: 60 cm; width: up to 60 cm. Sun.
• Scope out local garden tours and botanical gardens. Other peoples’ gardens are ideal places to get inspired and to see how plants look once established. They’re also a great place to meet people with similar interests and share growing tips. • Invest in one really comfortable chair for your balcony, deck or backyard. Place it in your most-loved spot where you can read, admire your garden, bird watch or catch a lazy afternoon nap. • Satisfy your berry cravings with a trip to a U-pick farm. If you’re not a keen berry picker or can’t pick, look for farms that sell pre-picked berries. • Host an evening garden party instead of an afternoon barbeque. Outdoor lighting is really all you need to set the mood. And if you’re thinking ahead, you can design your patio containers to include flowers that are most fragrant at night.
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Hosta
Hosta ‘Golden Tiara’
Placed front and centre, this hosta is the crowning touch to any shade garden. Because of its relatively short stature, ‘Golden Tiara’ not only works well as an edging plant but also makes quite a fast-growing groundcover. This bright hosta has heart-shaped leaves and wide chartreuse-and-white margins. In addition, it has darker lavender blooms than many other hostas. Height: 45 cm; width: 90 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.
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Days of Summer Perennials Alumroot
Heuchera ‘Plum Royale’
The frosty lustre on this alumroot’s purple leaves is remarkable. For an impressive colour block, plant ‘Plum Royale’ in groups, or use it singly as an accent within a flowerbed. Known primarily for its foliage, this perennial also produces delicate blush flowers in summer. As with all alumroots, this variety requires mulching annually to protect its crowns, which tend to push upwards. Clump forming. Prefers moist and fertile soil. Height:15– 20 cm; width: 30–55 cm. Sun to a.m. sun. Astilbe
Astilbe ‘Rhythm & Blues’
Like a swirl of candy floss, the bold pink plumes of this astilbe float effortlessly above its foliage. The plumes are both richly coloured and richly scented. Moreover, this astilbe has dark-green leaves and a compact form. Astilbes are good choices for shady and damp woodland or waterside gardens. Flowers in early summer. Clump-forming perennial. Width: 25–40 cm; height: 45–60 cm. Shade to a.m. sun. Betony
Stachys macrantha ‘Robusta’ (syn. S. grandiflora)
In a battle for top billing, ruffled edged hooded flowers compete with the scalloped, grey-green leaves of this lamb’s ears’ relative. Produces rose-pink flowers in summer and has a compact habit. Height: 30–60 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Expert Advice Slugs love hostas, so be proactive and follow these tips: • Turn the soil around hostas in the fall. This will expose the slug eggs to freezing temperatures and reduce populations the following year. • Use non‑toxic pellets. Just be sure to set them out before the slugs start eating your plants. The pellets need to be replaced after rain.
Clustered Bellflowe
Campanula glomerata ‘Caroline’
What’s not to love about this bellflower’s charming mauve flowers? ‘Caroline’ is a fairly tall variety that blooms from spring to fall. The mauve petals are each edged with a darker purple and, like other plants in the glomerata species, are star-shaped and clustered. Clump-forming and spreading habit. Height: 40–50 cm; spacing: 30–45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
• If you’re not too squeamish, handpicking is another option. You’ll have more success finding slugs in the morning and evening when they’re most active. enjoygardening 41
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Hakone Grass
Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’
A warm spring to jump-start growth will assure success with Hakone grass. So, to improve the odds in cooler climates, plant where the ground warms up the earliest (such as near the foundation of your house). There is, however, a hitch: this plant also prefers partial shade, so a southern exposure won’t be the best choice. Despite the challenges, this tender perennial can be grown successfully on the Prairies. The striking striped foliage is accented by green seedheads that turn purple in late summer. Clump forming and slow spreading. Height: 30–40 cm; width: 30–50 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
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Days of Summer Pacific Bleeding Hea t
Daylily
Ferny foliage distinguishes this perennial from its relative, the common bleeding heart. When it blooms, you’ll also see a difference in the flower shape, although both species have elegant stalks with dangling blossoms. The Pacific bleeding heart is also a shorter plant. It is clump forming and often used as a groundcover in woodland gardens. Produces pink flowers from spring to summer. Avoid hot and windy sites. Height: 30–45 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Shade to a.m. sun.
Tinted the same deep red as a male towhee’s breast feathers, it’s easy to understand the origins of this daylily’s name. Petals also have thin yellow stripes that extend from the yellow eye zone of each flowe . It is a late-season bloomer that also contributes texture and height to flowerbeds with its grass-like foliage. Divide these clump-forming perennials every 3–5 years to maintain vigour. Performs best in a moist site. Height: 60–65 cm; width: 45–90 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Dicentra formosa
Hemerocallis ‘Towhee’
Jacob's Ladder
Polemonium ‘Stairway to Heaven’
It’s the foliage of this Jacob’s Ladder that will have you over the moon. The cream and pink margins on grey-green leaves are a standout. To best show off this perennial, plant it in front of dark-green-coloured plants. Clusters of blue flowers from early to midsummer. Spreading habit. Prefers moist and fertile soil. Height: 30–60 cm; width: 20–40 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
White Mugwort
Artemisia lactiflora ‘Guizhou’
White mugwort could be described as the black sheep of the Artemisia genus. But not because of its black-green foliage and mahogany-coloured stems. No, what makes this mugwort an anomaly is that it requires a moist site in order to flourish. But give it moisture, and you’ll be rewarded with vigorous growth and fragrant creamy-white blooms from summer to fall. Prune back to 10 cm in spring to encourage bushy growth. Clump forming. Height: 1–1.5m; width: 45–60 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Pink, Double Star Series
Dianthus ‘Pop Star’ (‘Devon Esther')
Spicy fragrance is the best reason to have Dianthus in your plant repertoire. ‘Pop Star’ is particularly striking with double pink flowers and bright-magenta eyes. And, like the other varieties in this series, this favourite is longblooming and has sturdy, compact foliage. Blooms from late spring to summer. Bluegreen foliage is evergreen. Height: 10–20 cm; width: 15–20 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. enjoygardening 43
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Cutting Garden Asiatic Lily
Lilium ‘Coral Sunrise’
Mimicking the changing hues of a sky at sunrise, this lily’s petals change from lavender-pink to peachy coloured as they mature. An extremely hardy lily that makes a great cutflowe . ‘Coral Sunrise’ prefers to have its base shaded, so grow shorter plants in front of it. Clump forming. Provide organically rich soil. Height: 1 m; width: 30–45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Bells of Ireland
Moluccella laevis
The spectacular spires of this annual’s bell-shaped blooms are beloved in both fresh and dried flower arrangements. Besides being a fantastic cutflowe , bells of Ireland makes an equally impressive accent plant in a flowerbed or containe . Height: 60 cm; spacing: 25–30 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Martagon Lily
Lilium x dalhansonii
This beauty is an easy-togrow lily. However, it is slow growing—as is the rule with martagons—and will be most productive when it’s three to five years old. Recurved maroon flowers with gold spots bloom in early summer. Suitable for a woodland garden, where it will perform beautifully in filtered afternoon light. When grown in full sun, it requires more moisture. Clump forming. Provide organically rich soil. Height: 1–1.5 m; width: 30–45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Asiatic Lily, Tango Series
Lilium ‘Cappuccino’
Abundant flowers on every stem make this striking bloomer a worthy addition to any lily collection. Its heavy burgundy speckling produces a bold accent on the pure-white petals. It’s also an extremely hardy lily that multiplies quickly. Let it flourish in your perennial bed, or cut the flowers to enjoy indoors. Clump forming. Height: 90–100 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Quick Tip
Share your bounty. Fresh cut bouquets are especially prized by people who can no longer garden for themselves.
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Days of Summer Roses Tender Rose
Rosa ‘Cinco de Mayo’
A festival of colours will greet you as the blooms of ‘Cinco de Mayo’ open. The lavender and red-orange double flowers are 7–9 cm in diamete . They also offer a fresh-apple fragrance. Blooms from summer to frost. As with all tender roses, provide winter protection. Height: 60–90 cm; width: 60–90 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Tender Rose
Rosa ‘Pink Promise’
The soft-toned blossoms of ‘Pink Promise’ deliver a strong honey and berry fragrance that will have you wearing out the path to it in the garden. We recommend planting one in a decorative pot on your patio or balcony where you can enjoy the aroma from summer to frost. A tender or tea rose costs about the same as a similar-sized patio planter, so why not treat it as an annual— especially if you don’t have anywhere to overwinter the rose. The double blooms are each 10–15 cm in diameter. Requires winter protection. Height: 1–1.2 m; width: 75–90 cm wide. Sun to p.m. sun. Hardy Rose, Parkland Series
Rosa ‘Hope for Humanity’
Quick Tips
Keeping Roses Healthy
The name of this rose and its blood-red flowers might not seem perfectly matched. But it makes perfect sense when you know ‘Hope for Humanity’ was introduced in 1995 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Canadian Red Cross. Since that time, this hardy rose has proven itself a first-rate performer. It has double, 5-cm flowers that are lightly scented. Blooms summer to frost. Height: 45–70 cm; width: 60–75 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Healthy roses are more resistant to diseases and pests, so prune them regularly, and provide them with adequate amounts of water, sunshine and fertilizer. • Remove fallen leaves, petals and other debris to help eliminate potential havens for insects and diseases. • Remove spent flowers to encourage maximum flower production. • If you plan to overwinter your rose, stop picking flowers about six weeks prio to the first killing frost in your area This will allow time for hips to form and for the plants to work their way into dormancy. enjoygardening 45
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Water Bowls
If you’ve ever dreamt of having a water garden but had nightmares about digging the hole, a water bowl is the perfect solution. To minimize algae growth, cover twothirds of the surface area with floating water plants, such as water lettuce, duckweed and water hyacinths.
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Days of Summer Water lily
Nymphaea ‘Colorado Changeable’ As its name states, the flowers on this water lily change in colour as they mature, shifting from yellow to peach and, finall , to pink. These plants often have several blooms at once, all of which are star-shaped and stand well above the water. New leaves of this water lily are mottled with burgundy and mature to green. Plant the bulb in a spot where it will be covered by at least 30 cm of water. To overwinter, remove the bulb from the water after a fall frost (which is needed to trigger dormancy). Then store indoors, keeping the bulb damp and in a cool, dark location. Width: 1.5–2 m. Sun.
Collecting Rainwater Collecting rainwater is a good way to conserve water no matter where you live. But in urban areas where the burden on municipal water-treatment facilities and drainage systems is great, rain barrels are particularly helpful. Your plants will appreciate the chlorine-free water, too. Here’s what you need to know. • Inspect your barrels and fittings Make sure there are no cracks or leaks. Repair or replace as necessary. • Install netting or wire mesh over the opening of your barrel. This will prevent mosquitoes and debris from getting into the water. • Place your barrel on a solid, level base. Also ensure that the overflow opening directs water away fro the house foundation. Attach a hose to the overflow opening to route water to an area in your yard where it will be useful. • Clean your gutters and downspouts. Besides blocking water flow, leaves and other organic materials create perfect environments for growing mosquito larvae. • Drain the barrel in the fall, and store it inside to prevent damage. If you don’t have indoor storage space, turn the barrel upside down to keep water and snow out. And don’t forget to reattach the downspouts to your house.
Quick Tip
Use drip irrigation systems to minimize water loss. Besides delivering water directly to where it’s needed, they also help reduce your workload.
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Coneflowe
Echinacea ‘Green Envy’
Green blooms are a rare find in the Echinacea family, so this variety is novel. As a bonus, it’s also a scented specimen. Lime petals and cones change to magenta and orange, respectively, as the flowers age. Blooms from summer to fall. This droughttolerant perennial needs a well-drained site. Height: 50–90 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
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Days of Summer
Hazy Days There’s no shortage of late-summer showoffs in the garden, so don’t let your love affair wane just because the sun’s lower in the sky. Late summer is also the perfect time to reflect on which perennials need to be moved in the fall, so grab a note pad and a little gumption, and plan on making some changes. Coneflowe
Echinacea purpurea ‘Double Pink Delight’
We’re cheering for this coneflower and its alluring pompom-like flowers. It’s a double flowering variety with an abundance of blooms. ‘Double Pink Delight’ is also a compact, sturdy variety that doesn’t require staking. Flowering begins in summer and continues until frost. This perennial is drought tolerant once established. Provide a well-drained site. Height: 50–60 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Northern Pin Oak
Quercus ellipsoidalis
Stately and majestic, this oak is known for its spectacular red fall colour. It has a pyramidal form typical of oaks, but, unlike most, is drought tolerant once established. Prefers light, sandy soil. Height: 15–20 m; width: 10 m. Sun.
Juniper
Juniperus x pfitzeriana ‘Daub’s Frosted’
Built-in contrast is at hand with this juniper. Mature bluish-green foliage appears frosted by the new soft-yellow growth. And, if you’re looking for a fast-growing groundcover, ‘Daub’s Frosted’ is a superb selection. It’s particularly attractive scrambling around boulders or rocky outcroppings. Tolerates dry sites once established. Height: 30–40 cm; width: 1.5 m. Sun. Olive ‘Silverscape’
Elaeagnus ‘Jefmorg’
Silver-leaved trees look spectacular in the landscape, and this one is no exception. ‘Silverscape’ is a sterile hybrid developed by crossing a wolf willow with a Russian olive. The result is a rounded, weeping form with bright-silver foliage and berries. A great choice for stabilizing a bank or naturalizing the landscape. Tolerates both dry conditions and poor soils. Height: 2.5–3 m; width: 2.5–3 m. Sun to p.m. sun. Sea Holly
Eryngium planum ‘Jade Frost’
Variegation is what sets this newcomer apart from other sea hollies. The blue-green leaves have prominent white edges, although in cool weather the margins of new leaves will show pink. The trademark thistle-like flowers are a bright violet-blue. It’s a clump-forming taprooted perennial that resents being moved. Prefers well-drained soil that’s kept on the dry side. Readily tolerates drought and salt. Height: 60–80 cm; width: 45 cm. Sun.
Expert Advice Low-maintenance gardens and drought-tolerant plants go hand in hand. But having droughttolerant plants doesn't mean you’ll never have to water. You’ll need to supplement natural sources when there hasn’t been any rainfall and when you’re first establishing your plants
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Stonecrop
Sedum ‘Xenox’
Tall stonecrops have a bad reputation for falling over or breaking off, but not this one. ‘Xenox’ has a compact form that makes it a stand-up choice. It features dark-maroon foliage, which emerges green, and pink flower clusters. his perennial blooms from late summer to frost. Even though Xenox tolerates hot and dry conditions, it should be watered regularly for peek summer performance. Height: 20–25 cm; width: 30–40 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Stonecrop
Sedum spurium ‘Blaze of Fulda’
Savour the blaze of red blooms on this creeping Sedum. They contrast nicely against the evergreen burgundy foliage. In addition to its bold look, ‘Blaze of Fulda’ is a vigorous grower that tolerates poor soils and dry conditions. It also has good resistance to pests and diseases. Perennial. Height: 5–10 cm; width: 45–60+ cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Aster
Callistephus chinensis ‘Massagno Mix’
These exotic-looking flowers don’t look like common annual asters. It’s the swirled jumble of quill-shaped petals that differentiate ‘Massango Mix’ from other double-flowering varieties. But what they have in common with other asters is their superb longevity as cutflowers. ou’ll get large 9-cm flowers from midsummer until fall. Mix includes whites, pinks, reds and purples. Wind tolerant. Height: 50 cm; spacing: 20–25 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Ornamental Kale
Brassica oleracea ‘Red Bor’
Like a well-placed exclamation mark, ornamental kale knows how to punctuate the garden. The bold rosettes are an ideal textural addition to planters or flowerbeds. The crinkly leaves of this variety have a deep purplered colour. Of course, these plants perform best in cooler temperatures and look fabulous into late fall. Also edible, although very tannic tasting. Frost tolerant. Height: 45–60 cm; spacing: 60 cm. Sun. Pansy, Dynamite Series
Viola x wittrockiana ‘Beacon Blue’
This series is known for its straight-up faces that reveal dynamite colour. Capped with white, the upper petals of ‘Beacon Blue’ are arresting against the deep solidpurple lower petals. Each flower is about 9 cm across. The series is also known for its heat tolerance. Because pansies are frost tolerant, they bloom late into fall. Height: 15 cm; width: 15–20 cm. Sun to p.m. Sun.
Quick Tip
Late summer is the perfect time to refresh your front entrance with a container of frost-tolerant plants. Fall mums, pansies, grasses or flowering cabbage make great choices.
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Days of Summer Trees and shrubs Apple
Dogwood ‘Golden Shadows’
Malus ‘Hardi-Mac’
Cornus alternifolia ‘Wstackman’
There’s finally a hardy version of the McIntosh apple. So now even Prairie gardeners can grow this ever-popular lunch box staple. Maturing in late August, ‘HardiMacs’ are crisp, bright–red and 5–7 cm in diameter. They’re also excellent for cooking and have long storage life. For successful pollination, you’ll need to plant another apple variety or a pear nearby. Height: 4.5–5.5 m; width: 3.5–4.5 m. Sun.
The burgundy branches of this shrub are horizontally tiered, which is uncharacteristic for a dogwood. In the spring, you’ll notice the new growth is reddish coloured. ‘Golden Shadows’ also has a nice show of creamy blooms in late spring. The resulting berries mature to black in late summer. Mature leaves are yellow with green centre accents. Height: 1.5–2 m; width: 2–3 m Shade to a.m. sun.
Cedar
Thuja occidentalis ‘Fire Chief’
We love this cedar for its intense colour. New growth—which is the most intense—is orange-yellow and matures to a coppery tone in fall. Shear yearly to promote new growth and a full, round form. This cedar should be planted in a site sheltered from drying winter winds. Height: 75–90 cm; width: 75–90 cm Sun to p.m. sun. Euonymus ‘Prairie Radiance’
Euonymus bungeanus ‘Verona’
A radiant fall display is the famed feature of this small tree. In fall, its pink seed capsules split open to expose scarlet seeds, and its green leaves turn soft-pink to cherry-red. In winter, the showy seeds of this euonymus provide beautiful contrast against this plant’s grey bark. The ornamentally insignificant spring blooms are yellow. Height: 3–6 m; width: 3–5 m. Sun to p.m. sun.
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Apple Maggots
Apple maggot flies (o , more specificall , their larvae) can infest every apple on your tree. So controlling these pests is important. Here’s what you need to know. Physical description: Apple maggot flies are smaller than the common housefly and can be easily identified by their brown-black colou , yellow legs and distinctive wing patterns. Where to look for them: Apples and crabapples are the primary hosts for these insects although they can also infest hawthorns, plums, cherries and pears. Controls and prevention: The most common trap on the market is a synthetic “decoy apple” baited with pheromone lures. The traps need to be set out in late June or early July before the adult flies emerge from the soil. It’s also essential that all nfested apples be picked up and thrown away (not composted) so that the maggots can’t enter the soil to pupate and overwinter. enjoygardening 51
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Hydrangea
Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Twist-n-Shout’
If you’re unfamiliar with lacecap hydrangeas, here’s an excellent example. ‘Twist-n-Shout’ is a re-blooming variety and hardier than many other lacecaps. Its centre flowers are fe tile yet small, whereas the outer ring of sterile flowers are large and show . Each cluster is 18–20 cm in diameter. Flowers are pink if grown in alkaline soil; blue in acidic soil. Glossy green foliage. Plant in a sheltered site. Height: 75–90 cm; width: 75–90 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
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Days of Summer
Juniper ‘Prairie Pillar’
Juniperus virginiana ‘Monbell’
There’s always demand for narrow columnar evergreens, and ‘Prairie Pillar’ readily fits the bill. Its striking silvery blue-green colour holds beautifully throughout winter, and its short and dense branches aren’t prone to breaking under snow cover. No pruning required. Height: 4.5–6.5 m; width: 60–90 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Black Locust
Robinia pseudoacacia
Drooping clusters of extremely aromatic blooms are the trademark feature of this tree. As its pea-like flowers suggest, black locust has nitrogen-fixing roots, which means it tolerates poor soils. Black locust leaves are similar to those of caraganas but are larger and have pairs of short thorns at the base of each leaf. The spring blooms mature into attractive seed pods (5–10 cm), and the bark changes from smooth and green to dark-brown and deeply furrowed as it matures. Height: 9–15 m; width: 7–9 m. Sun. Ninebark
Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Tilden Park’
A hard-to-source shrub, this ninebark is a first-rate roundcover. It’s fast growing and dense, which means few weeds will grow through its green foliage. Great on slopes to help prevent soil erosion. Height: 40–50 cm; width: 60–100 cm. Sun or shade. Spirea
Spiraea nipponica ‘Halward’s Silver’
Did You Know?
Arching branches add a graceful air to this spirea. In late spring, those branches display masses of white blooms. The plant itself is compact and has dense blue-green leaves that turn coppery bronze in fall. This undemanding shrub adapts to any type of soil. If you need to prune, do so immediately after flowering has ceased to ensure blooms the following year. Height: 60–90 cm; width: 60–100 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
Trees and shrubs should receive their last application of slow-release fertilizer no later than the beginning of August. Fertilizing any later in the season will encourage trees and shrubs to grow at a time when they should be working their way into dormancy. enjoygardening 53
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relax
Entertain Style Entice
trend spotting
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Aromatherapy Awaken your senses and emotions
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Wall Gardens Expand your horizons and go vertical
second look
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Invisible Enlightenment Nature meets infrared photography
floral design
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Design Challenge Two designers, one bouquet, endless possibilities
recipes
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Tapa the World! Small servings with big flavou
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Yellow Tomato Gazpacho Lamb Lollipops with Rosemary Orange Glaze Grilled Goat Cheese with Lemon and Greens Melon Mojito Drunken Peach and Almond Tart
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trend spotting
An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2010
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Aromatherapy Awaken your senses and emotions
At its simplest, aromatherapy is the use of scent to enhance your sense of well-being. So, if you’ve ever walked through a fragrant garden or lit a scented candle to refresh or relax yourself, you’ve already tapped into the power of aromatherapy. As a complementary or alternative medicine, aromatherapy seeks to strengthen self-healing by stimulating the immune system. Obviously, the term “aromatherapy” covers a wide spectrum of applications. But there’s no doubt we respond powerfully to fragrances—our sense of smell is wired to the part of our brain that controls emotion. So take advantage of that natural correlation, and delve into aromatherapy. It’s a sensational trend that’s certain to please. The sweet and slightly citrus notes of freesias are irresistible. So why not grow your own and immerse yourself in the beauty and aroma of these much-loved flowers? You’ll readily be able to find blue, pink, red, white and yellow flowered Freesia x hybrida bulbs with single or double, trumpet-shaped blooms. Unfortunately, as is the case with many fragrant flowers, the amount of extractable odorants from a freesia is minimal. In fact, essences labelled “freesia” are merely blends of other aromatics designed to approximate the smell of the flowers, as opposed to an essential oil from the freesias themselves. (Opposite page) enjoygardening 57
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trend spotting
An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2010
Historically, many cultures have used fragrant plants in their healing practices. However, it wasn’t until the early 20th century that a French chemist coined the term “aromathérapie.” Today, essential oils (extractions from the barks, flowers, leafs, berries and resins of plants) are readily available for us to use. Here’s what you need to know.
Getting It Right
Rosemary
There are three basic ways to reap the benefits of aromatherapy. • The first method is cosmetic aromatherapy. For this method, essential oils are mixed with either skin or haircare products. • A second method is to combine the therapeutic benefits of massage with the aromatic benefits of essential oils. For massage, dilute essential oils in a suitable carrier oil, such as sweet almond or grapeseed. Never use highly concentrated essential oils directly on the skin. • The third approach is olfactory aromatherapy. In this method, fragrances are released into the air through the help of humidifiers, diffusers, candles or spray bottles.
Rosemary is both an aromatherapy and culinary star. This evergreen shrub has leathery needle-like leaves and a fragrance reminiscent of camphor or eucalyptus. Use the leaves fresh, or dry them by hanging bunches upside down in a dark, well-ventilated room. The pale-mauve flowers can also be used fresh or preserved in oil. Rosemary is a tender, short-lived perennial that withstands lows of –10°C to –15°C. It can, however, be overwintered inside. Height: 30–100 cm; width: 30–60 cm. Sun. (Above)
Rosemarinus officinalis
Quick Tip An easy way to capture and enjoy fresh outdoor notes is to hang laundry in the sun to dry.
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Did You Know?
Peppermint
Mentha x piperata
It takes 100 kg of lavender to distill approximately 500 mg of essential oil.
Peppermint is extensively cultivated to source the well-known oil of peppermint, used as a flavouring and therapeutic agent. This herb is also a culinary favourite with a hot, pungent and slightly sweet taste at first, followed by a cool sensation of menthol. Use it fresh in salads, to flavour vinegars, oils and jellies, or for tea. While best used fresh, mint can also be dried or frozen. It’s an easy-to-grow perennial that prefers a moist site. Height: 30–45 cm; width: 45–60 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. (Above right)
Quick Tip Rose petals are perfect for making into potpourri, and it couldn’t be easier. Here’s how. 1. Pick roses early in the morning after the dew has dried. The fresher the flowers, the more essential oils will remain when dried 2. Next, pluck off the petals, and allow them to dry on a screen frame in a well-ventilated room. Do make sure the petals dry completely, or your potpourri will mould. 3. Enjoy the fragrance of the petals by themselves, or create your own fragrance combination. Dried herbs (such as lavender), dried orange skin, or spices (such as cloves) make great additions.
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trend spotting
An insider’s look at what’s hot for 2010
Wall Garden Expand your horizons and go vertical
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New terms such as “living walls” and “vertical gardens” are making their way into our lexicon. But no matter what the descriptor, they all translate to “fantastic garden.” In their traditional rock form, wall gardens evoke an Old World charm. Today, similarly styled versions are made of reclaimed concrete and offer a more contemporary feel. Other modern takes involve wooden or metal frames that range from the simple to the complex. On a small scale, living walls are great for growing salad greens. On a larger scale, they become art. So call them what you will! Green and vertical, traditional or contemporary—one thing’s for certain: wall gardening’s a trend that’s sure to expand your horizons.
The best way to assemble a dry wall (a mortarless stone-and-soil wall with plant pockets) is to build and plant simultaneously so that the roots of your plants are positioned deeply into the centre of the wall where all the soil is. The rule to constructing this type of wall is to build it in the shape of a sawhorse (with a wide base that starts below the soil surface, a narrow top and sloping stone sides). The space created in the centre
Quick Tip
of the sawhorse holds the soil that your plants’ roots will grow into. Small stones and rubble can also be added to the soil. The wall should also be designed with a slight depression in the top to hold water. For the sunny side of a wall garden, try aubrieta, thyme, cushion phlox or pinks. Hens and chicks (Sempervivium) also look beautiful tucked into crevices. (Above left) Similarly, houseleek, sedum species, yarrow and grasses
If you don’t have plants on hand during construction, use narrow rocks or pieces of wood inserted lengthwise and slightly downward. Later, remove these placeholders, and use the holes for planting.
are good drought-tolerant choices for the tops of walls. For shady sides, try saxifrage, violets and small ferns. Climbers can also be planted at the base of a wall and trained to grow over the top. Consider a rose, clematis or grape. On a smaller scale, vertical gardens can be ideal for balconies or patios. Making one
from cedar boards and wire mesh is a relatively simple do-it-yourself project. They’re perfect for vining annuals or salad greens. Try ‘Gourment Blend’ lettuce, a fantastic mix that includes green romaine, oak-leaf and curled-leaf varieties. Premade walls and kits are also becoming readily available.
Did You Know? The flowerheads on enilworth ivy (Cymbalaria muralis) turn away from the light once they’ve been fertilized. So, when grown in or near a wall garden, this ivy will release its seeds towards the wall crevices where they’re likely to take root. enjoygardening 61
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second look
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Invisible Enlightenment Photography by Akemi Matsubuchi
Nature meets i n fr ar ed p h o to g r ap h y Capturing the unseen may sound like a tall order, but that’s exactly what infrared photography’s about—filtering out all visible light, and letting in what’s invisible to the eye: infrared light. The surreal result is an ethereal visual reality luminous with phantom frost. As you are about to discover, trees make ideal subjects for this type of photography because of their ability to reflect large amounts of infrared from the sun. Inspired photography, invisible reality, genius of nature. Take a look.
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second look
Genius is the ability to see things invisible, to manipulate things intangible, to paint things that have no features. —Joseph Joubert
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second look
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Excerpt taken from “The Return” Writing the Land Anthology Alberta through Its Poets.
Akemi Matsubuchi was born in Montreal, Quebec and lived in several countries before settling in St. Albert, Alberta. Her love of photography harkens back to the age of 10 when her father put a camera in her hands and encouraged her to take a second look at the world. She’s been capturing it ever since. enjoygardening 67
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floral design
Design Challenge
Tw o d e sig ne r s, on e b ou qu e t , e n dle ss po ssibilit ie s What do you get when you cross a generic bouquet with two designers? Signature style, of course. And lots of it! The inspiration for this design challenge was simple: take a generic bouquet, like the kind you’d find in a grocery store, and transform it into three inspired arrangements. And that’s exactly what our designers did. Each took her own approach; each created one-of-a-kind pieces. So get ready to learn from the experts. Follow their tips, get inspired and watch as they make one plus two equal extraordinary.
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floral design Design Challenge
Take One Tikina’s inspiration: contemporary designs and vases that echo the shape of their feature flowe Unifying elements: glass vases, decorative gravel, bark-covered wire
Unfurling with effortless beauty, this trumpet‑shaped rose subtly mirrors the conical shape of the glass vase. Sprigs of St. John’s wort support the rose while providing an invigorating pop of contrasting colour. Green decorative gravel and a spire of bark-covered wire accentuate the shape of the vase and add visual weight to the base of this arrangement. (Below)
Sunny, upward-facing gerberas are held in place by a deep layer of decorative gravel and some cleverly disguised armature. Branches of ‘Florida Beauty’ dracaena provide a speckled burst of green as well as secondary support. Loops of bark-covered wire and a nest of ‘Feeling Green’ chrysanthemums complete the circle-inspired theme and mimic the arrangement’s round glass bowl. (Above)
The tapered, reaching petals of this Asiatic lily thoughtfully mimic the corners of the square vase that houses this arrangement. Tufts of ‘Jade Green’ trachelium and a few ‘Feeling Green’ chrysanthemums peek out the top of the vase, creating a delicate landscape atop which the lilies tower. Completing the design is a serpentine of barkcovered wire that provides both secondary support for the blooms and height to the design. (Right) 70 enjoygardening enjoygardening
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The number one rule of design: be fearless! Why not start with a straw hat? Not only does it create a prefect underpinning, the visual weight also counterbalances the sprawling design elements above it. Chicken wire studded with St. John’s wort cradles the vase and creates support for the boxwood that rests against it. A grouping of Asiatic lilies add a blast of yellow to the centre of the arrangement, which is also home to some ‘Feeling Green’ chrysanthemums. (Below)
Design Challenge
Take Two
Lisa’s inspiration: a garden party Unifying elements: gardening relics, metal, straw-coloured elements
Sometimes the best arrangements need just one flawless flower or one great idea. This arrangement has both. To create the bones of this design, Lisa secured a trowel and a hand cultivator across the mouth of a glazed pot, creating both a grid and a decorative element. Next, a layer of green flowers and foliage were created using St. John’s wort, ‘Feeling Green’ chrysanthemums and pittosporum. Tall sprigs of variegated boxwood add vertical interest to the design and mimic the protruding handle of the trowel. Last, but certainly not least, a single yellow rose is nestled among the greens, bringing contrast and elegance to the playful design. (Left)
For a whimsical garden theme, you can’t beat a watering can filled with sunny gerberas. Sprigs of variegated boxwood create the base of this arrangement while butterflylike leaves of ‘Florida Beauty’ dracaena appear to hover above the flowers. A lattice of chicken wire works doubleduty, carrying the garden theme upward and providing a support for the gerberas. As a final touch, the spout is stuffed with ‘Jade Green’ trachelium and wrapped with raffia, proving that a container can be as whimsical as the arrangement it holds. (Above)
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floral design
How to
Manipulate Like an Expert Sometimes, even flowers aspire to be more. Luckily, our experts are magicians at unlocking potential. From turning ti leaves into ribbons to wiring heather into pin curls, it’s all here to be learned. Here’s what you need to know.
Getting It Right
Manipulate foliage. Editing things out can be as effective as adding things in, so be brave in your designs. Here are three easy techniques to try. • For our first trick, we thinned sections of a podocarpus branch to reveal more stem, which, in turn, created a sparse, airy feel. (Above left) • Next, we tackled a sago palm, altering its shape by stripping away sections of foliage and trimming the rest with a pair of scissors. (Above middle) • For our last trick, we turned a ti leaf into voluminous loops of ribbon. It couldn’t have been easier. Simply fold down the leaves and staple them in place. The result is a lustrous ribbon, perfect for adding volume to bouquets. (Above right)
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Wire stems to create malleability. Decorative wire can be used to manipulate the shape of many flowers. We took stems of heather, wrapped each in fine-gauged wire and then gently coaxed them into elegant curves. Not only does this create beautiful shapes, it also changes the design applications for which the heather can be used. (Above left) Turn damaged blooms into accents. Whether the result of a storm or your own heavy-handedness, a damaged bloom can still be made beautiful. Removing the petals from a shattered gerbera, for example, will expose its velvety centre and add texture to your design. Exposed centres are also ideal for accenting with decorative floral pins.
Use grids and armatures to support stems. There’s no reason to limit yourself to tall containers with narrow mouths. With a few clever modifications, a short or widemouthed vase can hold any flower. A few centimetres of decorative gravel is often enough to anchor stems in place, but for ultimate support, create a floral frog from curly willow. Simply wind the pliable willow inside your container until you achieve your desired labyrinth. We used both thin and wide pieces to create architectural interest and support for this arrangement’s four delicate flowers. (Above right)
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recipes
Tapa theWorld! Small servings with big flavour
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! Mediterranean-inspired tapas make light work of summer cooking. Bright and tangy tomatoes; freshly picked honeydew; herbs of all flavours and subtleties—the best summer food is fresh, light and easy. As you’re about to discover, our tapas recipes are as easy to eat as they are to make, so double or triple any of them to feed a crowd. Eaten early, late, or snacked on all night—these small bites will add the perfect casual attitude to your summertime dining.
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recipes
Ye l l o w To m at o G a z pa ch o When it’s too hot to cook, quench your appetite with this brightly coloured chilled soup.
(Serves four) 5 medium yellow beefsteak tomatoes, cored and chopped 1 large yellow bell pepper, chopped 1 medium cucumber, peeled and chopped 125 mL (1/2 cup) water 45 mL (3 tbsp.) sherry vinegar 1 clove garlic, chopped 2 mL (1/2 tsp.) cumin 125 mL (1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
1. Combine tomatoes, yellow pepper, medium cucumber, water, sherry vinegar, garlic and cumin in a blender. 2. Purée until smooth, then add olive oil and salt. 3. Purée about 30 seconds longer. 4. Press through a fine-mesh sieve and into a bowl or pitcher. Cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hours. 5. Pour the chilled gazpacho into four bowls, and top with garnish.
10 mL (2 tsp.) sea salt 1 small cucumber, thinly sliced (for garnish) 1 red bell pepper, cut into 1 cm (1/2") cubes (for garnish) 60 mL (4 tbsp.) chopped fresh chives (for garnish)
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Lamb Lollipops
with Ros e m a r y O r a n g e G la z e These diminutive chops sing with bright Mediterranean flavours.
(Serves four) 15 mL (1 tbsp.) fennel seeds 5 mL (1 tsp.) sea salt 2 mL (1/2 tsp.) freshly cracked black pepper 8 lamb rib chops, frenched 30 mL (2 tbsp.) olive oil 45 mL (3 tbsp.) chopped fresh rosemary, divided 2 cloves garlic, minced 85 mL (1/3 cup) freshly squeezed orange juice 60 mL (2 tbsp.) chopped green olives 60 mL (2 tbsp.) capers
1. Smash the fennel seeds with a rolling pin, and mix them in a small bowl with the salt and the pepper. 2. Coat both sides of the chops with the salt-pepper-and-fennel mixture, drizzle with olive oil, and rub the seasonings into the meat. 3. Smear garlic on the chops, and sprinkle with 2 tbsp. (60 mL) of the rosemary. 4. Place chops on a plate, cover and let season in the refrigerator for at least two hours. 5. Preheat grill to medium high. 6. Remove chops from the refrigerator, and tap off excess seasoning.
7. Grill the chops, turning only once, for two to three minutes per side. 8. Transfer the grilled chops to a platter, cover loosely with foil and let rest for three to five minutes. 9. In a small saucepan, combine the orange juice with the remaining 1Â tbsp. (15 mL) chopped rosemary and any juices that accumulated on the meat platter. Bring to a boil, and let simmer until reduced by half. 10. Add sea salt to taste, and drizzle over the chops. Sprinkle with olives and capers, and serve immediately.
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recipes
Gr i l le d G o at Ch ees e with Le m on a nd G r e e n s
Crisp cool greens and tangy goat cheese refresh and revive fading appetites. (Serves four) 8 slices baguette, 1 cm (1/2") thick 225 g (8 oz) soft goat cheese 10 mL (2 tsp.) oil 500 mL (2 cups) baby greens 1 small lemon, sliced paper-thin (for garnish)
1. Lightly toast the baguette slices. 2. Cut the goat cheese into four equal slices, and brush the tops and bottoms of each with oil. 3. Grill the cheese over medium-high on a preheated grill until golden brown (about 1–2 minutes per side). Meanwhile, dress the greens with vinaigrette (see recipe below). 4. Divide each slice of cheese in half, and place one atop each baguette slice. 5. Arrange the dressed greens atop of the cheese, and garnish each tapa with a slice of lemon. Serve immediately.
Honey Vinaigrette 60 mL (1/4 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 20 mL (4 tsp.) sherry vinegar 10 mL (2 tsp.) honey Sea salt and freshly cracked pepper (to taste)
1. In a small jar, combine all ingredients. 2. Cover and shake.
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Melon Mojit o Sweet melon and mint come together in this cool green cocktail that tastes as refreshing as it looks. (Serves four) 1/2
ripe honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and cut up
2 limes, quartered 60 mL (1/4 cup) fresh mint leaves Ice cubes, as desired 180 mL (6 oz) light rum 250 mL (1 cup) club soda Slices of lime (for garnish) Mint sprigs (for garnish)
1. Place honeydew pieces in a blender. 2. Blend until smooth. 3. Evenly divide the lime quarters and mint into the bottoms of four tall glasses. 4. With a muddler, bruise the lime and mint to extract their juice and flavours. 5. Add melon purÊe, ice and 45 mL (1.5 oz) rum to each glass. Stir to combine. 6. Add 60 mL (2 oz) club soda to fill each glass, and stir lightly to incorporate. 7. Garnish with a slice of lime and a fresh sprig of mint.
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recipes
D r unk e n P e ac h a n d A lm on d Ta rt Finish your meal with this sophisticated sweet treat of wine‑drenched peaches and luscious vanilla custard atop crisp puff pastry. (Serves four) 2 large, firm, ripe peaches, stones removed 125 mL (1/2 cup) red wine 60 mL (4 tbsp.) sugar, divided 1 cinnamon stick 125 mL (1/2 cup) milk 80 mL (1/3 cup) whipping cream 3 egg yolks 15 mL (1 tbsp.) flou 2.5 mL (1/2 tsp.) vanilla 199 g (7 oz.) store-bought puff pastry, thawed 60 mL (1/4 cup) sliced almonds
1. Cut peaches into 8 slices each, and place in a medium-sized bowl. 2. In a small saucepan, combine wine, 30 mL (2 tbsp.) of the sugar and the cinnamon stick. Heat over medium until almost boiling, stirring to dissolve the sugar. 3. Pour over sliced peaches and set aside for 30 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, combine milk and cream in a small saucepan. Bring it to a boil, then remove from heat and add vanilla. 5. In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar and flour until well combined. 6. Whisking constantly, pour hot milk mixture into egg yolk mixture. 7. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan, and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 5 minutes).
8. Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F). 9. On a lightly floured surface, roll out pastry to a thickness of 0.5 cm (1/4"). 10. Cut the pastry into four equal pieces, and space them evenly on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. 11. Spread the custard overtop each piece, leaving a 0.5 cm (1/4") border of pasty that remains uncoated. 12. Sprinkle 15 mL (1 tbsp.) of almonds over each tart. 13. Remove peaches from wine syrup, and arrange in equal portions on top of custard. Discard wine. 14. Bake for 15 minutes or until the pastry is golden. 15. Serve warm or cool.
Food stylist, Chef Alexei Boldireff Award-winning culinary student. Internationally trained. Ready to take on the world. Poised to make a big name for himself in the culinary world, Chef Alexei Boldireff is tackling every challenge he can, impressing a host of happy clients along the way. Whether styling food for magazines or donating his catering services to the MS Society and the United Way, Alexei’s approach to food is always the same: heartfelt and passionate. 80 enjoygardening
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reconnect
Do Change Enrich
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Container Landscaping From pot to plot—landscape plants pull double-duty
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Tool Obelisk with Linda Bodo Rake in the compliments with this upcycled obelisk
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No Stone Unturned with Linda Bodo Create custom paving stones from fabulous find
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Container Landscaping From pot to plot— landscape plants pull double-duty
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This year, why not make your perennials and shrubs pull double-duty? Put them to work in your
deck pots for the summer, then plant them into your permanent landscape come fall. Besides being stylish, low-maintenance and easy to create, perennial and shrub containers are ideal for stretching a landscaping budget. To inspire you, we’ve designed two of our own—one for a sunny spot, the other for a shady site. So give them a try! Follow our “recipes,” or create your own combinations. Either way, there’s no better time to get started. Here’s how.
Step 1: Planning
• Choose the right pot. When selecting a container, diameter isn’t the primary consideration—volume is. That’s because the root systems of perennials and shrubs require more soil volume than annuals do. As a guideline, choose a container with a minimum width of 45 cm and a minimum depth of 60 cm. The greater the height and width, the greater your creative leeway. Just make sure the container has drainage holes. • Select the right soil. Always start with a good-quality outdoor-container soil mix. It has a heavier grade of organic content, which is more suitable for the large root systems of perennials and shrubs. It also holds moisture better than soilless potting mixes, which are formulated for tender-rooted annuals and seedlings. • Look for added value in your plants. Most perennials and shrubs don’t bloom all season, so it’s important to consider foliage colour and texture when choosing your plants. You also want to
consider the maturity of your plants. For example, if a blooming shrub is part of your combination, buy one that already has buds. Flowering perennials, on the other hand, don’t necessarily need to have buds in place but do need to be mature enough to produce flowers. • Build a focal point. Select plants of various heights, and arrange the shorter ones towards the front to provide depth perception. Generally, arrangements with odd numbers of plants are more esthetically pleasing, but don’t get stuck on that rule. As our sun planter proves, even numbers can work remarkably well. • Try before you buy. Have a dress rehearsal at the garden centre. Gather the plants you want, and arrange them how they’d be presented in your container. Next, substitute larger or smaller plants, add to or subtract from the original group, or switch out plants entirely until you achieve your desired look.
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Made for the Shade For our shady container we’ve chosen a hydrangea as the focal point. It’s complemented by a purple alumroot, two bergenias and a clump of creeping stonecrop. For a slightly different look, try a hosta instead of the bergenia or a golden creeping jenny instead of the stonecrop. Here are the specific varieties (and some alternatives) we used in this 45-cm diameter pot. Hydrangea
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Little Lamb’
It almost looks as if the fleecy-white blooms of this hydrangea float above its foliage. ith strong stems that support its long-lasting blooms, ‘Little Lamb’ is an outstanding choice for a container. It has tight and fairly large panicles (10 cm); however, its flower petals are the smallest in the H. paniculata family. Height: 1.5–2 m; width: 1.5–2 m. Shade to a.m. Shade. Substitute: H. paniculata 'Limelight.' Alumroot
Heuchera ‘Dark Secret’
It’s no secret that alumroots are prized for their fine looking foliage. In this instance, the ruffled leaves are purple-bronze with a silver sheen. ‘Dark Secret,’ like other Heucheras, is a clump-forming perennial that produces delicate, but relatively insignificant, summer blooms. Height: 25–35 cm; width: 30–45 cm. Shade to a.m. sun. Substitute: Heuchera ‘Plum Pudding.’ Stonecrop
Sedum kamtschaticum v. kamtschaticum ‘Variegatum’ Spilling over the edge of a container, this creeping stonecrop creates a cascading layer of interest. In a traditional setting, it makes a superb groundcover. Delicate golden flowers sit above the succulent reen leaves, which have cream edges. This evergreen perennial tolerates poor soils and dry periods. Height: 20–25 cm; width: 30 cm. Sun to p.m. sun.
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Step 2: Planting
Once you’ve selected your plants and a pot, it’s time to put them together. 1. Begin by looking at your plants and picking out the one that came in the tallest pot. Next, fill your container with an outdoor container soil to a depth that allows the plant in the tallest pot to sit at the same height it was in its original container. 2. Reconfirm your design plan by setting all the plants—still in their pots—into your landscape container. Adjust your plan if necessary then set the plants back on the ground. Now you’re ready to begin planting. 3. Take the plant with the tallest pot, and tip it out into your container. Next, gently break up the roots, and place the plant into position. Any other plants that are in pots the same height as the one you just placed
can also be added at this stage. Otherwise, add another layer of soil to a depth that allows the plants in the next tallest pots to sit at the appropriate level in the container. Add those plants, following the method. Repeat the process with each different sized pot. 4. Once all your plants are positioned, fill in any gaps with more soil. Eliminate air pockets by shaking or tapping the pot, but don’t pack the soil. 5. Water thoroughly, and top off with soil if the level drops significantly. 6. If desired, top-dress the soil with a 2–3 cm layer of organic mulch. Not only will it add a decorative finish, the mulch will also slow water evaporation from the soil.
Expert Advice Container Maintenance • Check your container daily to determine its watering needs. How often you have to water will depend on the size of your container, how much sun or shade it gets and what kind of weather it’s been battling. For example, an oversized container in a shady spot may only need water twice per week, while a smaller container in a hot or windy location may need watering daily.
• Fertilize once every two weeks. An all-purpose (20‑20‑20), water-soluble fertilizer for annuals is best. Perennials and shrubs aren’t normally fertilized this way, but it’s the right way to maintain them in containers. As always, stop fertilizing perennials and trees in the beginning of August so they can naturally work their way into dormancy. • Remove spent flowers And don’t be afraid to prune gangly or lopsided growth from shrubs. enjoygardening 87
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Step 3: Replanting
The window for decommissioning your containers and getting the perennials and shrubs in the ground is mid September to mid October. The main objective being to have them planted at least two to three weeks before the soil freezes. Here’s what you need to do. 1. Start by digging out each plant from the container. They should each have a large, healthy mass of firm white roots, so don’t worry about being overly gentle—it’s okay if some smaller roots break in this process. 2. Place the plants in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp, and move them to their new site. 3. For each specimen, dig a hole that’s twice as wide and one-and-a-half times as deep as the rootball. To the soil you’ve removed from the hole, add one-third organic material. However, if your soil is particularly poor, replace it entirely with a triple mix (equal parts topsoil, compost or manure, and peat moss or coconut coir).
4. Backfill the hole with the amended soil so that the plant will be at the same level it was in the container. To help the roots reestablish, apply a product containing mycorrhizal fungus to the roots, or put bone meal in the hole. 5. Next, place the plant into the hole, and fill with more soil. Water thoroughly, and add more soil if there is significant settling. 6. Continue to water as needed, until the ground freezes. As a rule, trees and shrubs need a minimum of 15 L of water per metre of height or width per week. However, new transplants may need to be watered twice per week or more, depending on weather conditions. 7. In the spring, resume watering as soon as the ground thaws.
Quick Tip
Lighten the Load
To make an oversized container more maneuverable, fill the bottom qua ter to one-third with lightweight bark chips or nuggets rather than soil. Just be sure to tamp that layer into place so that there’s no major settling after the container is planted.
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Done for the Sun For our sunny container (a 65-cm diameter pot) we’ve chosen a ‘Black Lace’ elder as the focal point. A mugo pine provides a fantastic mound of green but could easily be replaced with a horizontal juniper. Bright pink blooms from a ‘Magic Carpet’ spirea and a ‘Midnight Wine’ weigela complete the container and provide a delicate pop of colour. Here’s the scoop on the varieties we used. Spirea ‘Magic Carpet’
Spiraea japonica ‘Walbuma’
Take a magical ride with this brilliant spirea. Its showy foliage is bronze-red when new and matures to chartreuse, while its summer blooms are a bright pink. It is a compact and slow-growing shrub. Height: 45–60 cm; width: 60–90 cm. Sun to p.m. sun. Substitute: S. japonica ‘Flaming Mound.’ Dwarf Mugo Pine
Pinus mugo var. pumilio
Mugo pines vary greatly in their growth habits—a point to be aware of when choosing which to buy. This dwarf version, with short, dense needles and a compact, round form, is just right for a container, small shrub bed or rock garden. Moderate growth rate; extremely hardy. Height: 90 cm; width: 3 m. Sun. Weigela ’Midnight Wine’
Weigela florida ‘Elvera’
Striking burgundy-purple foliage makes this an excellent accent shrub. The compact ‘Midnight Wine’ is one of the smallest weigelas available. It features deep-pink blooms in late spring. Provide a sheltered site. Height: 30–50 cm; width: 60–70 cm. Sun. Substitute: W. florida ‘Bramwell’ (‘Fine Wine’).
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how do you do
Tool Obelisk with Linda Bodo
Rake in the compliments with this upcycled obelisk
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Rustic, recycled objects are ideal for putting heart and soul back in the garden. This classic garden accoutrement was fashioned from a worn rake, hoe and pitchfork and is the perfect tower for growing ornamental vines or edible climbers. Besides looking great in the summer, this tripod can be left in place over winter to add a sculptural element to an otherwise stark landscape. A surefire way to drive away the winter blues. Materials (for a set of three)
Tools
Three long-handled garden implements (rakes, hoes or forks)
Wire cutters Scissors
Heavy wire or large tie wraps Twine or raffi Finishing wax or sealant stain
Step by Step
1. Wax or stain the handles of three garden implements to help preserve them from damp soil and the elements. 2. With the handles pointing down, create a tripod by tying the tools together with heavy wire or tie wraps at about one-quarter of the tools’ length from the heads. Cover the strapping with twine or raffia for a decorative effect. 3. Position the obelisk in the garden with the legs pulled apart. Slightly bury the legs in the soil until the structure is standing securely. 4. Plant climbing plants around the perimeter of the obelisk. You may have to secure non-clinging vines to the obelisk with ties. You can also attach garden netting to the obelisk to get a very full tepee effect.
Climbing Vines
For those of us with fickle hea ts, annual climbing vines are rewarding plants to grow. We can experiment each year with a new variety of bean or flower without guilt. I think this obelisk is particularly well suited to old-fashioned favourites like this black-eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia elata). Sow the seed directly outdoors right after all danger of frost has passed, or start them indoors to get a jump on spring.
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No Stone Unturned with Linda Bodo
Create custom paving stones from fabulous finds Roadside landslides, babbling brooks and abandoned abodes have become the “stone superstores” for your hardscaping needs. But the objects you find there aren’t just a collection of building blocks—they’re moments in time, souvenirs of places and the perfect muses for do-it-yourself projects. I’ve transformed my finds into these custom pavers. My instructions include enough materials to create four pavers and one reusable mould. However, if you’re keen to make more than one paver at a time, create as many moulds as you desire—just continue to mix only one batch of concrete at a time for ease of process.
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how do you do
Materials
Tools
20 x 20" melamine-coated 5/8" particleboard 11/2" wood screws Silicone caulk 35 lbs. type 50 Portland cement 35 lbs. play sand River rock or pebbles Two 12 x 12" pieces of thin plywood, cardboard or foam core
Table, chop or skill saw Two large utility pails Electric drill and paddle attachment 1/16" drill bit Caulking gun Plastic measure Spatula Hammer or rubber mallet Level
Note: You’ll have enough cement and sand to create four pavers.
Step by Step 1. To create the mould, cut one 12 x 12" bottom from the melamine particleboard. Then cut two 21/2 x 12" pieces and two 21/2 x 131/4" pieces for the sides. Tip: Melamine-coated particleboard has a resin finish that releases very easily from cured concrete, making it ideal for paver moulds, but you can replace melamine with plywood if you seal the wood with several coats of sealant or glossy paint and use a generous amount of release agent (spray silicone) with each pour.
2. Pre-drill screw pilot holes; then attach the side pieces to the bottom unit with screws. Lay a bead of silicone on all seams to seal the mould. Let cure at least four hours. 3. Draw your design on one of the two 12 x 12" boards, and lay out the stone pattern. 4. Prepare the concrete recipe for one tile as follows. In a large utility pail, mix 9 cups of cement and 9 cups of sand. In a second pail, pour 31/2 cups of water. Add the dry ingredients to the water, in small amounts. After each addition, blend thoroughly with the drill-mounted paddle. Continue adding dry ingredients. The concrete will resemble coarse oatmeal. Caution: Concrete is caustic, so follow the manufacturer’s directions for safety.
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5. Place the mould on a level surface. Pour concrete into mould, and spread it evenly with the spatula. Using a hammer or mallet, gently tap the sides of the mould until the concrete has settled into the corners. 6. Place rocks into cement in desired pattern. If your pattern involves straight lines, use straight edges as guides for the design. Larger rocks will have to be embedded deeper in the mix. Note: If your pebble inventory is running low, check out dollar stores or landscaping suppliers for washed river rock or polished stone. And don’t forget that picking rocks from national parks is against federal law.
7. Place the second 12 x 12" board in the mould, and firmly press the stones until level. 8. Cover the filled mould with plastic wrap, and allow concrete to cure for 24 hours.
9. Unscrew and remove one or two sides of the mould, and ease the paver out with a spatula. Scrub the surface of the paver with a stiff brush and water to remove any concrete accumulated on rocks. Cure concrete seven days before setting the pavers in the ground. 10. Re-attach the sides of the mould, and seal seams with silicone before pouring additional pavers. 11. To prepare the ground for the pavers, dig down approximately 3–4" and level the surface. Pour a base of sand approximately 1–2" deep, and level the surface. Place each paver on top of the sand, nestle it into place and level as required. Note: Go easy on your back when lifting and placing pavers. Use a wheelbarrow or cart for hauling.
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the last word
Gardening for Health with Jim Hole I suppose it’s human nature to look for obscure things that might affect our health. Chemicals are always an easy target because they allow us to blame outside forces that are often beyond our control, and, in turn, exonerate ourselves from blame. Unfortunately, it doesn’t take a lot of reading between the lines of health articles to realize that our sedentary lifestyle is the number one threat to a long and healthy life. Fortunately, part of the solution is in your own backyard—literally. Gardening ranks high on the list of activities that can not only help keep our cardiovascular systems in great shape, but also help keep our muscles strong and our joints flexible. So the question is, just how good a workout is gardening? Well, from a caloric burn standpoint, gardening has an excellent track record. The scientific way of measuring how good an activity is for burning calories is to note its METs. MET stands for metabolic equivalent, and by using METs you can compare any activity to the energy cost of resting quietly. For example, if you were sitting on the couch with the remote firmly in hand, your body would be burning one MET worth of energy. So a 1-MET activity for a 60-kg person who’s doing nothing more than contemplating his or her existence would burn about 60 kilocalories per hour (the term calorie is often mistakenly used in conversation). Now, if that same person would rise from the couch, head to the yard and water the lawn, the MET level would rise to 1.5. Better yet, picking fruit from a tree would bring the MET level up to a 3, and general gardening would raise it to a 4. Using a power mower (not the riding or self-propelled type) moves the METs up to a whopping 6! To walk you through the equation, our 60-kg friend in couch-potato mode would burn about 1,392 kilocalories per day (sleeping is a .9 MET activity). That equates to approximately two and a half Big Macs. Now if that
person were to engage in a couple hours of general yard work every day, the kilocaloric-burn picture would change substantially. Working at that 4-MET level would burn an extra 360 kilocalories. Subtract the couch potato MET value of 1 from the general yardwork MET of 4 and you end up with what equates to a whopping five Big Mac’s worth of kilocalories burned per week! Of course, kilocaloric burn is only one of the benefits of gardening. Any time you lift a pot or plant a tree, the very act is part of a good old-fashioned weight lifting program that keeps your muscles strong and promotes bone density. Joint flexibility is also improved by gardening simply because of the variety of movements required. Lunging, stretching, pushing, pulling, bending and balancing can all occur within an hour’s work. But like any activity, gardening should be done safely. Change tasks frequently; don’t lift objects that are too heavy; don’t overdo; protect your knees; and use the right equipment—in the way it’s intended to be used. One final thing to remember is that, although the physical health benefits from gardening are reasonably easy to measure, the mental health benefits are equally important to acknowledge. But just how does one ascribe an equivalent mental MET value to picking a crisp apple off a tree or seeing tulips in full bloom? Well, my heart skips a beat just thinking about it.
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58
The Designs
A Japanese Garden
The Plan
Overgrown and dying trees, hidden front door, 35-year-old bungalow, northern exposure
An authentic Japanese garden has a set of rules that are quite rigid, but that doesn’t mean the owners can’t create a slightly more flexible version that is still inspired by this style. The L-shape of the house lends itself to the creation of a courtyard, a key element in a Japanese garden. Because the house faces north, most of the plantings will benefit from being distanced from the shade of the house. They will also provide a lovely background for the courtyard. The homeowners can put their skills to the test creating many of the hardscaping elements: a fence, a covered gate and a low deck. The boulders, statuary pieces and stepping stones can be purchased.
Wish List: a Japanese-style garden, a seating area and interesting features. The homeowners purchased their 70s bungalow as a fixerupper. Having finished the interior, they are now ready to get to work landscaping the front yard. Since their renovations reflect a clean-lined mission style, they are interested in creating a garden with a complementary Japanese theme. Luckily, the vertical wood cladding on the house is in keeping with a Japanese style. The homeowners want to do most
Assessing the Design Options
of the work themselves, which means spreading it over two
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Landscape Tip Having a water feature in your garden is a plus but may be problematic in a front yard. For safety reasons, it’s best to install a pebble pool—one with a reservoir that is below ground level and that is covered by a layer of pebbles. Inground pond kits can be purchased, or you can make your own using a sturdy plastic pail as the reservoir and some heavy wire mesh to support the pebbles.
or three years, but will need to hire a tree removal service to create a blank slate and hire an electrician to run power to the water basin and lantern features.
Create an Impression
Landscaping for Curb Appeal By Maggie Clayton
Presenting 23 professionally designed landscape plans that allow gardeners the luxury of implementing designs stage‑by-stage according to time, budget and desire. $21.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 256 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-07-6
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What Grows Here? Volume 2: Problems
By Jim Hole
By Jim Hole
Favourite Houseplants for Every Situation
Favorite Plants for Better Yards
Jim Hole takes the guesswork out of caring for houseplants by addressing issues concerning light, water, pests, diseases and more. Complete with full-colour photography and in-depth plant listings, this book gives you the confidence to select the perfect houseplant for every situation.
Brimming with solid advice from one of Canada’s most accomplished gardening professionals, Problems tackles common gardening dilemmas: poor soil, pests, budget concerns and much more. Complete with detailed descriptions of plants you can count on to tackle the garden’s toughest challenges.
$21.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 292 pages • ISBN 978-1-894728-06-5
$19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 264 pages • ISBN 1-894728-03-3
What Grows Here? Volume 1: Locations
What Grows Here? Volume 3: Solutions
By Jim Hole
By Jim Hole
Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim Hole and his team of expert horticulturists present tried-and-true advice, examples to help you tailor your gardening approach and hundreds of today’s best plants, chosen to fill every conceivable location in the garden—including trouble spots. $19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 256 pages • ISBN 1-894728-02-5
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enjoy
What Grows Here? Series
“It’s a paradox, but it’s amazing, man” —singer-songwriter, Bill Bourne on Alberta (AV May 2009)
Favorite Plants for Better Yards Jim introduces the owners of 13 gardens in different stages of development, discusses the problems each faces and offers his expert advice on selecting the best plants for specific locations and conditions. Novice gardeners and seasoned experts alike will discover how to make a landscape their very own. $19.95 • 5.5 x 8.5 • Softcover • Colour • 264 pages • ISBN 1-894728-05-X
Subscribe today or call us for a free sample issue. www.albertaviews.ab.ca • 403-243-5334
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