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the watch and jewellery show
Zenith CEO JeanFrédéric Dufour speaks about the virtues of classical watchmaking and manufacturing. Page 2
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where business begins and trends are created
Heavenly timepieces – the moonphase is one of the most traditional complications and yet cutting-edge. Page 6
The Muraro group wins the licence to distribute Baraká men’s jewellery. Marta Muraro talks about the prestigious brand. Page 24
BASELWORLD 2010 fulfils all expectations show has gone very well for us. The high quality items were in demand in particular. There were a lot of customers from other European countries this year. We still have continual appointments booked right through until Thursday. All of the customers who registered showed up as well as plenty of new customers”.
A good atmosphere was also prevalent among jewellery exhibitors on First Avenue. As Giuseppe Picchiotti said: “There was a lot more happening than last year, we are very pleased. The trend for luxury is back.” Dr. Marcus Mohr of Victor Mayer added: “It has gone brilliantly. We have plenty of promising
march 18 - 25, 2010 The estate jewellery market is alive and well, from Van Cleef & Arpels, to Louis Comfort Tiffany, you can find it here. Page 33
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Runway to success Events at BASELWORLD 2010 have confirmed the hopes of the exhibitors and show management of an upturn in the luxury goods industry. Martin Bachmann, CEO at Maurice Lacroix, said: “We came to Basel with high expectations and have not been disappointed. The customers and journalists were also in an optimistic frame of mind, without exception. Certain markets even exceeded our expectations such as Asia, in particular China, Germany and Switzerland”. Loek Oprinsen, President and Commercial Director at Ebel added: “The trade show was very satisfactory for us, which is what we had expected. Our new items enabled us to focus on our core skills and as such we were able to capture the enthusiasm of our customers. Overall, the atmosphere was very positive. BASELWORLD has been an indicator for us that the year will go well.” Exhibitors in the Hall of Elements like Bernd Willi Ripp from Groh + Ripp have also appreciated BASELWORLD 2010 as the start of an upturn. “We are very pleased; the
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new contacts as well as numerous new contacts from the Far East. Fine gold jewellery is back in demand.” And Jacques J. Duchêne, President of the BASELWORLD Exhibitors’ Committee, said: “We are very happy overall. It’s still too early for euphoria but we can certainly look to the future with optimism.” (ahe) n
After an eventful week, I am sure that you, as a visitor or an exhibitor, have been able to engage in a large number of interesting talks, meet up with old acquaintances again and also forge new contacts. High hopes are associated with BASELWORLD. And I am delighted if, after challenging times, the event has once again been able to herald a phase of recovery or upturn for you as a part of this industry. Over the past few days I have received a great deal of positive feedback from people who return to Basel every year. Not only because this show constitutes the most important event for the watch and jewellery
The BASELWORLD 2010 fullfls all expectations and sends optimistic impulses to the luxury sector worldwide
The ethos of perfection Mikimoto President Noriyuki Morita on brand heritage and product development BWDN: What are the challenges for the next couple of years for Mikimoto? Noriyuki Morita: We have the big milestone of the 120th anniversary of the discovery of cultured pearls in 2013. As we do our best to realize the great dream of our founder Kokichi Mikimoto – to adorn the necks of women all around the world with pearls – we continue to conduct product development and promotional expansion. In addition, along with enhancing the High Jewellery Collection that we are exhibiting at this year’s BASELWORLD, we will, while exhaustively seeking out new perspec-
tives, continue to be particular about quality and fabrication, which is our core. Concerning luxury prêt-a-porter jewellery, we continue to expand product collections with unified designs in Mikimoto internationally.
Noriyuki Morita
BWDN: In the universe of Mikimoto, what are you most proud of? Morita: Since our founder, Kokichi Mikimoto, discovered cultured pearls, they have been developed into a Japanese industry and are now enjoyed all over the world. Our company has achieved high quality control through a consistent system of production, procurement, design, fabrication and sales for over a century – something unique within the world’s jewellery brands. I believe it is because our staff in each department, no matter the era or the region, has always done their utmost for Mikimoto.
BWDN: What is the brand philosophy of Mikimoto? Morita: The best quality. The best design. The best service. BWDN: What is Mikimoto’s most important contribution to the world of jewellery? Morita: To have accomplished the great achievement of cultivating pearls in 1893, and then having cultured pearls recognized in Europe and world markets as jewels – making it possible for even more people to wear and enjoy pearls that were originally only obtainable for a small minority of people. Interview by Nina Hald n
industry, but also because the particular benefits of a show are especially tangible here in Basel: personal contacts, one-to-one conversations and immediate experiences in the halls. I trust that you, as our guests from all over the world, have had an enjoyable stay here in Basel so far and wish you every success and satisfaction during the final phase of BASELWORLD too. I am already looking forward to being able to welcome you in Basel once again next spring. Sylvie Ritter Managing Director BASELWORLD
watches
Page 13 Wednesday. March 24. 2010
Mondaine hits the rails
Steadily growing its brands the Group is buzzing with excitement Very few watch companies in the world can boast nearly 25 years in existence based on a very singular look. Mondaine Watch Ltd., creator of the official Swiss Railway watch collection, licensed by the Swiss Railways SBB, is an exception to that rule. Mondaine represents the wristwatch version of the 3,000 Swiss Railways Clocks found in all the Swiss train stations for more than 60 years. These very
Mondaine Watches went to the Swiss Railways in 1986 and asked for the license to make these famous clocks into wristwatches. The rest is history. Since the launch of the wristwatch version of the clock by Mondaine, the timepiece has gained the reputation as one of the top ten design classics in the watch industry due to its clean styling and its extremely readable dial with the famous red second hand with a round tip. Even from a distance, the watch is easy to tell time from because of its crisp, clean dial design. Additionally, while the brand regularly updates and evolves the designs with creative new functions, illuminated technology and accessories, it remains true to its original concept. Now, at BASELWORLD 2010, the brand unveils a host of exciting new products, brings customers to its new factory and poises itself for growth for 2010. Indeed, according
Savonette
distinctive clocks were designed as easy-to-read clocks for passengers in the rail stations and became the symbol of Swiss ontime performance.
to Dr. Ronnie Bernheim, board member of Mondaine, the company escaped the recession in 2009. “The Mondaine brand has had good development, with strong
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NEWS.TRENDS
Lorenz introduces a new collection of quartz watches for ladies. The Blue Moon line features several models in square and round designs distinguished by their mother-of-pearl dial with applied indexes or Arabic figures. They are outfitted with a stainless steel bracelet featuring a butterfly clasp or a crocodile leather strap. (sz) 2.0, A06
Ronnie and André Bernheim
key factors for this success being the unique and distinguished position of Mondaine in the watch market,” says Bernheim. “For many watch retail stores, Mondaine is the entry price Swiss watch brand, and this is today a strong argument in the watch trade.” In fact, some of Mondaine’s key market, such as the United States and the UK reported growth of more than 40% over the previous year, as they opened new doors and brought in exciting new products. This year new product highlights include the Mondaine Retro Automatic, part of the Retro line that was first introduced in 2009. The Retro Automatic, with curved sapphire crystal, is water resistant to 10 ATM and houses the ETA automatic 2878 caliber. The watch
features a sapphire caseback and crystal with anti-reflective treatment, and retails for CHF 650. Also garnering much attention at BASELWORLD is the Mondaine Savonette, a sophisticated 48 mm pocket watch with lid and snake chain retailing for CHF 250. This year, too, Mondaine releases the Mondaine Valjoux 101 (limited to 101 units). An exceptional collector’s piece, the Mondaine Valjoux 101 houses the ETA Valjoux 7750 caliber with chronograph and commemorates the 101st anniversary of the locomotive B3/4 no. 1348 – built in Winterthur, Switzerland in 1909, by Swiss Locomotive and Machine Works. The watch retails for CHF 2,500 and is created in a matte steel case with sapphire caseback. Each watch is individually numbered. (rn) ■ 1.1, D41
Blue Moon Collection from Lorenz
Candino introduces a notably sporty chronograph. Its impressive case, which encloses a quartz movement, features a tachymeter scale. The reference is distinguished by the fresh combination of red and black. Thus, its black dial with luminous hands has a clear legibility. (sz) 1.0, A25
Keep on running Watch winders keep fine watches on the go Movement keeps you fit – this sporting principle also applies to automatic watches. On the wrist, their motor generates enough energy to keep the movement running. But if watches lie dormant in the safe or on a bedside table for a longer period, they stop as their power reserve runs out and need to be set by hand before they are worn again. This is a time-consuming and laborious effort, especially if you own many watches, or even a perpetual calendar. In view of the fact that very few of these precious specimens can be adjusted backwards, watch-
Pantom 8 from Buben & Zörweg
makers are required to attend to the setting if the displays have once been turned or pressed too far in haste. Quite apart from this, as precision instruments, mechanical watches are designed to be constantly in motion. If they lie still, there is the risk that their lubricants will in time congeal and damage the movement. Watch winders ensure that unworn timepieces always stay in motion and their movement is in good shape. They simulate the natural movement of watches in everyday life using a motor. When it comes to high-end watch winders, there is no such manufacturer as the Austrian company Buben & Zörweg. It has been on the market since the middle of the nineties and a long time exhibitor at BASELWORLD. Collectors throughout
Harald Buben from Buben & Zörweg
the world appreciate the Time Mover products due to their exclusive design and high-quality craftsmanship: precious woods with fine inlays create the characteristic look of the casings, and within these, the microprocessor-controlled motors ensure careful winding of the watches. The impressive range caters to discerning collectors: from handy devices right through to the exclusive collector’s salon, a form of wall cabinet that keeps up to 1000 watches running. At this year’s BASELWORLD, the Austrian manufacturer, who is also
known for exquisite clocks, presents several new products under its motto ‘The fine art of collecting’. The Phantom 4 is designed for four or eight watches, comes in piano black or macassar and features a special security lock system. The same applies to the Collector 16, which offers a classy and secure presentation for up to 16 watches. The Collector 32 Deluxe debuts in a new style dominated by precious wood inlays, such as from macassar. It is designed to keep up to 32 timepieces on the go. The French manufacturer Elie Bleu is also widely known for its exceptional quality watchwinders combining traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design. At this year’s BASELWORLD, they add a model with a capacity for three watches to the Yachting collection. Its front is inlaid with real optical lenses that highlight the details of the watches. The inside of the precious wood case contains high precision electronics ensuring a smooth and continual movement for the timepieces. (sz) ■
Candino 4429/3
In response to numerous requests, Lorenz launches its Portoro collection, which has been available in rectangular shapes, in a new tonneau case. It is enriched by different versions as a classical three-hand, a chronograph and two ladies’ watches. The chronograph comes in a stainless steel case with a white enamel dial on which the observer finds Arabic numerals applied alternating with indices and a metal bracelet or a leather strap. (sz) 2.0, A06
Lorenz Portoro chronograph