The joy and beauty of hydrangeas...........Carol Ann Harlos

CAROL ANN HARLOS

The joy and beauty of hydrangeas

Photo by Carol Ann Harlos

Hydrangeas’ appeal is multifold: they are aesthetically pleasing (simply gorgeous), practical (they attract pollinators), and resilient (they don’t die easily). I grow several types; they bring me such joy.

A few years ago, a friend brought me two bigleaf hydrangeas that had been tossed out. They were about six inches across and some of the leaves were a crispy brown (she knows I love a challenge). I trimmed off the dead leaves and broken roots, soaked the plants in water overnight, and dug each a hole. I mixed dugout soil with some compost, planted, and watered them. Not only did they survive, but the next year sent up fresh green growth. I wasn’t expecting any flowers—I assumed they were putting energy into root and leaf development— but the next two years the plants expanded to about two feet in diameter and did produce a few flowers. I cut back new stem growth each year around the fourth of July so that the next year’s buds, which form in late August, would be protected over the winter. This past winter and spring were mild, so I believe the buds didn’t freeze. This year, I had two bigleaf hydrangeas bursting with bright pink color. They’ve produced a few flowers in the past, but this year they outdid themselves! There are several types of hydrangeas. Some grow on “old wood” (meaning buds for next year’s bloom are formed at the end

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of the current growing season on stems produced during the previous summer), and some on “new wood” (meaning the plant doesn’t create buds until after growth begins in spring). If old wood hydrangeas are cut back in autumn, no new flower buds will be produced next spring. If you don’t know what kind of hydrangeas you have, don’t prune them.

Let’s make this easy. When purchasing a hydrangea, note the type. The acronym “MOM” refers to the first letter of the three groups that flower on old wood: macrophylla, oak leaf, and mountain. That leaves you with panicle, smooth, and climbing, which bloom on new wood. (Yes, I know that some hydrangeas bloom on both old and new, but this doesn’t work well for many gardeners; they need a rule that tells them when to prune.)

Go outside and look at your hydrangeas. Watch the bees and other pollinators go to the flowers. Cut some, bring them inside, and enjoy their beauty.

I love hearing from you: caharlos@verizon.net FY

Carol Ann Harlos is an awardwinning retired math and science teacher, Master Gardener, beekeeper, writer, and speaker. She tends extensive gardens, including herbs, and loves learning from others and sharing her knowledge.

Types of hydrangeas

Old wood hydrangeas Bigleaf hydrangeas (macrophylla)

Also called florist, mophead, or lace cap, macrophylla hydrangeas include the Endless Summer series. Certain macrophylla hydrangeas’ color can change from pink to blue through the addition of an aluminum sulfate, or from blue to pink with the addition of dolomitic lime. Frankly, I don’t understand why anyone wants to do this, but it’s most easily done on containergrown hydrangeas. Remember: you cannot change a white hydrangea to another color.

Oak leaf hydrangeas

These are named for their leaf shape and like partially shady, moist soil.

Mountain hydrangeas

Mountain hydrangeas’ leaves resemble those of big leaf hydrangeas, but the plants are hardier. Prune them immediately after they flower and relax.

New wood hydrangeas Panicle hydrangeas

This type can grow to be up to twenty-five feet and includes Limelight and Pinky Winky.

Smooth hydrangeas

These are the easiest to grow and include Annabelle, Invincible Spirit, and Invinciball.

Climbing hydrangeas

I have none; they need a strong support and extremely vigorous once established. The flowers are a gorgeous lacy cap.

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