4 minute read
Upcycle inspiration
Turn Your Trash Into Treasure With Three Easy Makeovers
Photography CATH MUSCAT Styling SAMANTHA POINTON
Lamp Revamp
We gave the shiny stand a matt white update, then reduced the drop-fitting shade height to a modern drum shape with on-trend macramé cord stripes.
1 Remove the lampshade from the stand. Mask off the electrical cord and light socket with painter’s tape and clean the stand thoroughly using sugar soap wipes.
2 Working on a drop sheet, spray the stand using primer and paint, holding the can 300mm from the surface and moving left to right to apply three light coats, leaving to dry after each.
Tools & materials n Safety equipment (eye protection, mask and disposable gloves) n Drop sheet n Utility knife n Tape measure and pencil n Mitre box with handsaw n Scissors n Preloved floor lamp with drop-fitting shade n Painter’s tape n Sugar soap wipes n Spray primer and paint in matt white n 6mm pine dowel n Superglue n 6mm macramé cord in three complementary colours
3 Cut the fabric from the wire lampshade frame with a utility knife, leaving a top ring with the attached drop fitting, and a separate base ring. Remove adhesive residue with sugar soap wipes.
4 To make a drum-shaped frame, centre the top ring over the base ring, standing it up on the drop fitting. Measure from outside the base ring to inside the drop fitting and cut three 6mm dowel pieces to length with a mitre box and handsaw.
Diy Toolkit
5 Space the dowel equally around the base ring and drop fitting. Secure with adhesive and leave to dry. Tip: We used Selleys ‘Power Grip’ all-purpose adhesive that is heat resistant.
6 Secure cord to the top ring with a double knot, run it over the top and around the base ring, then up to cover the knot, repeating to form a stripe of about 100mm. Tie off and repeat with alternating colours to cover the frame, tucking in the last knot. Fit the shade on the stand.
Keep in mind…
n When spray-painting, always wear safety equipment (eye protection, gloves and a mask) and ensure the work area is well ventilated.
n If painting a lamp stand, make sure it is not plugged into the power, avoid getting paint on electrical parts and allow to dry thoroughly before use.
Tools & materials
n Safety equipment (mask, gloves, ear and eye protection) n Tape measure and pencil n Circular saw with straightedge n Hammer
On The Side
Take a discarded chipboard or plywood box of about 400mm square and clad it in dowel for mid-century style. Add furniture legs and finish in an oak stain to create a high-end designer side table.
n Microfibre cloths n Combination square n Mitre saw n Drill with 3mm and 9mm bits n Screwdriver n 7mm plywood sheet n Chipboard box n 180-grit abrasive paper n Timber adhesive n 25mm x 1.25mm bullet head nails n Nine 2400mm lengths 30mm x 12mm half round dowel• n Timber filler with scraper n Four 3/8” vertical leg plates n Four 125mm x 65mm round furniture legs n Timber stain n Scandinavian oil
1 Make a top and base by marking around both open ends of the box on 7mm plywood and cut using a circular saw with straightedge. Tip: Elevate the plywood or work off the side of the bench to ensure the blade is unimpeded underneath.
2 Sand around the top and base with 180-grit abrasive paper to remove breakout. Apply adhesive around the raw edges of the cube, position the top and base, securing with nails 5mm in from the edges. Wipe away excess adhesive and leave to dry.
3 Check the width of each side (our box is 400mm x 395mm) and divide by 30mm for the number of dowel pieces. Measure the height to cut dowel on a mitre saw, using a clamp to set the length. Smooth the cuts with abrasive paper to round them over.
4 Test-fit the dowel, one side at a time, adjusting the spacing slightly as needed. Apply adhesive along the back of each piece, reposition and leave to dry before working on the next side. Tip: This box has 14 pieces with overhang on two sides and 13 on the others.
5 On the top, use a scraper to smooth filler into the nail holes. Leave to dry, then sand off excess. Smooth all over the box, creasing the abrasive paper to sand away any adhesive along the dowel joins. Wipe all over with a damp cloth to remove dust.
6 On the base, position leg plates in the corners, marking the holes to predrill with a 3mm bit and securing with the supplied screws. Predrill the centre holes with a 9mm bit for the leg lug screws, then twist them in to be flush against the plates.
7 Use a cloth to apply stain over the top, sides and legs, pressing it along the dowel joins for even coverage. Leave to penetrate for a few minutes, then wipe away excess. Repeat to apply Scandinavian oil with a clean cloth, leaving to dry thoroughly.
CUT & RUN
Give an old rug in natural fibre – such as jute or coir – a new life as a bespoke hallway piece. Select the least worn section and cut it down to size. Then trim the edges with webbing to help prevent fraying and create a border. Our finished runner is a standard size; simply adjust the measurements to suit your space.
Tools & materials
n Safety equipment (mask) n Tape measure and marker pen n Heavy-duty scissors n Preloved floor rug n 50mm poly webbing n Super-strong adhesive n Rug gripper roll
6
1 2 3 4 5 7
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1 Position
2 Cut
6 on a flat surface. Use a tape measure and marker pen to mark out the width and the length of the new runner. Tip: We kept the length of a 2900mm rug, cutting it to 750mm wide.
Keep in mind...
3 Roll out poly webbing along both ends of the runner, cut to length, then trim the ends at a 90° angle, which will create neat corners. Repeat for the sides.
