Busan Haps Issue 22 by Haps Magazine

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CONTENTS FEATURES

Shaking Up K-pop | 16 Winter Hot Spots (Outside of Korea) | 18 A Bright Day, Indeed | 24 Interview: Daniel Tudor | 26

REGULARS

SPORT

Ski Korea | 28

TRAVEL

International: Great Wall, Refreshed | 32 Korea: â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tis the Season | 34

COMMUNITY Going Holistic | 36 Expat Extracts | 37

FOOD

The Dish: Vegan Pate and Pumpkin Scones | 38 Crazy for Cupcakes | 39

MUSIC

Jake and the Slut | 40 Vinyl Turns 10 | 41

HAPS_winter 2012/13

On the cover: Kood Island, Thailand On this page: Kood Island, Thailand

EDITOR’S LETTER I have lived in Korea off an on for the past ten years. I love it here, and while I don’t see myself leaving anytime soon, I do take advantage of every winter vacation to get as far away from this latitude and closer to the equator as I possibly can. Having grown up in California and Florida, Korea is the first place I have lived that is actually cold during the winter. When my friends say, “Busan isn’t that cold!” I look at them in puzzled amazement. It is cold, and I don’t like it. That’s why this issue we decided to focus on some hot spots outside of Korea, where you can make your winter getaway like the migrating birds that are, apparently, smarter than several humans I know. This issue also has our yearly lineup of places to go skiing, Michael Fraiman writing about the Great Wall, (which is far far colder than here), Jen Sotham talks with film director (and world-famous son-in-law) Simon Aboud, James Turnbull looks at the trend of empowering K-pop; there are cupcakes and British journalists, holiday events and sports and a whole bunch of other stuff that make this issue so much more than great kindling for warmth. Have a great winter. I’m outta here.

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CONTRIBUTORS KENDALL MAIZE

Depending on her mood, Kendall will say she’s from Chicago, New Jersey or Arizona. Her adventures include being escorted home by police in Spain and herding sheep in the Australian outback. She is also now hostess of The Weekly Haps on Busan’s eFM 90.5 Fridays at 7:30 a.m.

JAMES TURNBULL

Since coming to Korea in 2000, James has become widely known for his highly respected blog The Grand Narrative. He lives in Busan with his wife and two daughters, Alice and Elizabeth.

CHRIS THARP

Chris hails from Washington State and has lived in Busan for over six years. When not when banging on a guitar or screaming into a microphone, he likes to write. If you buy him a drink he’ll tell you all about the times he met Kurt Cobain, but you probably already know the story.

MEGAN RUSHBROOK

Megan Rushbrook is a health and nutrition enthusiast from the US. She is currently studying to be a registered holistic nutritionist, and runs a blog, The Empowered Way, which encourages people to engage in a healthy lifestyle.

EUGENE SMITH

Haps’ music editor Eugene Smith was born in Costa Rica to Korean and British parents. Along with writing about the Busan music scene, he is the singer, songwriter and guitarist for the Busan rock band Millstone Grit.

MARY MCCARTNEY

Mary McCartney’s photo of her husband, film director Simon Aboud, is featured in this issue of Haps. Along with having photography in her genes, she’s also got the music: her mother is late rock photographer Linda Eastman McCartney; her father, famed former Beatle Paul McCartney.

JEN SOTHAM

Jen hails from New York and has been eating her way through Busan since 2006. The first Korean phrase she learned was chal-mo-gu-soob-ni-da.

PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill MARKETING DIRECTOR Michael Schneider MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch ASSOCIATE EDITOR Michael Fraiman

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Eugene Smith WRITERS: Jen Sotham Harold Swindall Kendall Maize Michael Fraiman Frankie Herrington Megan Rushbrook Chris Tharp James Turnbull Bobby McGill Jeff Liebsch Eugene Smith Danbee Lee Natalie Smith

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DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Mary McCartney Mike Dixon Jen Sotham Ben Weller Kendall Maize Frankie Herrington Seo Ji-hye ILLUSTRATORS: Matt Ferguson Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung

INTERN Shin Kyung-bin

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001

ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com

FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: Ocean Tower #1726, 760-3, Woo 1 Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822 www.busanhaps.com

ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

Events & Culture

SANTACON

DECEMBER 15 Kyungsung will host one of the most festive nights of the holiday season with one of the largest gatherings of Santa’s in Korea: SANTACON. For those of you who have never heard of Santacon, it’s pretty straightforward; dress like the big guy in red, sing carols, drink and be merry and all for a worthy cause. In the spirit of holiday giving, HQ, Eva’s, Ol’55, Sharky’s and Blue Monkey will have donation boxes set up and the proceeds will go to buy much needed supplies for the Busan Women’s Shelter. Give whatever you can because no donation is too small. Join in a night of food, drink specials and live music from some of Busan’s biggest names.

MADAME TUSSAUDS BUSAN

KOREA GRAND SALE

JANUARY 11 - FEBRUARY 28 ONGOING Receive up to 70-percent discounts Mingle with stars like Lady Gaga, David this winter as 85 companies and 24,700 Beckham and Johnny Depp on the sixth stores, including department stores, floor of Shinsegae Department Store un- duty-free, hotels, retail outlets and contil the end of March, as the Madame Tus- venience stores participate in this year’s sauds continues to bring their famous version of the Korea Grand Sale which blend of glitz and glamour to the city. takes place around the country. Enjoy Open from 10:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, the Hallyu concerts from Korea’s best in Klife-like wax figures have been a hit since pop, as well as all of the fashion, tradiits opening back in the end of June. tional food and culture Korea has to offer. www.madametussauds.com/busan www.koreagrandsale.co.kr

THE

BIG

FIVE SARAH CHANG

DECEMBER 11 Korean-American violinist Sarah Chang, along with pianist Ashley Wass, will perform Bach’s Air on the G String and Leonard Bernstein’s West Side Story at the Busan Cultural Center for a night of great classical music. The former child prodigy graduated from Juilliard School and has collaborated with most major orchestras, including the New York Philharmonic and Berlin Philharmonic. For more info.: 051-220-5341~3

50 CENT LIVE TOUR

JANUARY 13 Curtis James Jackson, a.k.a. 50 Cent, makes his first pilgrimage to Busan with a concert at BEXCO on January 13. Named the sixth-best artist of the 2000s by Billboard Magazine, 50 Cent is set to release his fifth studio album, Street King Immortal, in early January after months of delays. The 37-year-old rapper is best known for hits such as “P.I.M.P.”, “Candy Shop”, “Disco Inferno”, “How We Do” and “In Da Club”, which broke a Billboard record as the most listened-to song in radio history within a week back in 2007. Tickets run from 70,000 to 150,000 for VIP seats, though all seats for the concert are standing. interpark.com/global or call 02-2182-5541

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WORD ON THE STREET

SNØHETTA

SELECTED TO DESIGN THE BUSAN OPERA HOUSE

The Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta was recently selected as the winner of the Busan Opera House Competition in South Korea with their “Unpacking the box” concept. The proposed building will have a slanted roof that extends down to meet the ground, allowing visitors to climb up to a rooftop public square. The basis for the lay-out refers to Kun (Heaven) meeting Kon (Earth) which again meet Kam (Water). The classical trigrams of these elements both describe this site exceptionally well, whilst they refer to the historical and philosophical relationships that are of great importance to Korean culture. The slight bending of the surfaces in Snøhetta’s design are the bars of the trigrams slightly deformed to touch and meet each other in a subtle manner. The facility, which is slated to open in 2018, will house an auditorium, roof-level restaurant and park, an academy, rehearsal and VIP rooms and be a focal point of the North Port development.

LUXURY HOTELS ON THE RISE

As Busan is increasing its name as a popular tourist destination, hotels have taken notice and have begun either renovating or building as the demand for luxury accommodations rises. Currently, there are only six five-star hotels in the city, but with the planned Grand Hyatt to open in Marine City in February, the Hilton planning to open in 2015 in Gijang and the Hotel Shilla in 2016, Busan is establishing itself as a major competitor on the hotel builders wishlist. Lotte has taken notice with a recent 60-billion won makeover to its facilities, spurned by the expected competition for luxury rooms around the city. “As Busan has become a popular resort destination, more tourists are flocking to the city for vacations by the sea or the annual Busan International Film Festival. However, the city only has six five-star hotels, which makes it very attractive for investors in the luxury hotel businesses,” said a spokesperson for Lotte. 10 HAPS_winter 2012/13

Community & Living

KIM SI-JIN TAKES OVER THE HELM AT LOTTE

The Lotte Giants will have a new skipper in 2013, as Kim Si-jin takes over the managerial duties from Yang Seung-ho, who stepped down in early November. Kim signed a three-year,1.2 billion-won (US$1.1-million) deal to try and lead the Giants to the finals of the KBO, a feat not seen in years. “We think highly of his long-standing experience as a professional baseball manager and his ability to develop players,” a Giants official said. Kim is no stranger to the Giants, having pitched for Lotte before he retired in 1992. He comes to Busan via the Nexen Heroes, though was fired in September after the team fell apart in the second half to finish sixth in the standings.

ASIA’S LARGEST PORT TERMINAL TO BE BUILT IN BUSAN

Construction on the Busan Port International Passenger Terminal, deemed to be the largest in Asia upon completion, got underway at the end of October. At a total cost of 236.3 billion won, the Busan Port International Passenger Terminal is estimated to consist of five, five-story buildings on a 92,945square meter site between the former Pier 3 and Pier 4 at Busan North Port according to city estimates. With an annual capacity of 2.78 million people, the new Port Terminal will be equipped with facilities for customs and quarantine procedures, a waiting room, shipping company offices, a duty-free shop, a multi-purpose conference hall and convenience facilities among a host of others. The terminal is expected to be open for business by December 2014. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 11

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IN THE NEWS

GIMME A HEAD FULLA HAIR

AHN THEN THERE WERE TWO

Though the election is (hopefully) finished if you’re reading this after December 19, this season’s news cycle is rightfully dominated by the question of who will be the sixth president of the Sixth Republic of Korea. Software billionaire-turned-almost-politician Ahn Cheol-soo dropped out of Korea’s presidential race late November. It wasn’t that surprising—his biggest opponent was Moon Jae-in, the liberal candidate from the official opposition, the Democratic United Party. Everyone knew that two left-wingers would split the vote, paving the way for a sweeping win by conservative Park Geun-hye, whose own political reputation is marred by her father being one of the country’s most historically tyrannical dictators. So everyone assumed that with one left-wing candidate, all the lefty votes (something like 50-60 percent of the total voting populace) would swing to Moon and the DUP. Nope: Ahn was a loud leftist, but ran as an independent, which means a lot of his voters were undecided, or even prefer right-wing policies. Polls held soon after Ahn’s resignation showed that Moon’s popularity nearly doubled, sure, from 25 percent to 45 percent, but Park lept up just enough, from 45 to 55 percent. Polls taken in the last week of November call for a slim Park victory on December 19. In related news, Lee Jung-hee, the official candidate for the ultra-left, ultra-xenophobic United Progressive Party, also registered as an official candidate. If she wins, expect free education, free medical care, no more nuclear power, Samsung and Hyundai to be declared illegal corporations, and any ties between the ROK and the US completely severed. Isn’t it nice to end on a light note?

There is such a thing as the “Seoul City Government Student Human Rights Ordinance”, and in it it’s stated that public schools must allow students the right to grow their hair however long they please. Fair law, right? Well, a study taken this fall confirms that over half of all Seoul schools flat-out ignore this ordinance: 88 percent of middle and high schools have hair restrictions, just as a little over half of all schools in the city do. At one school, according to newspaper the Hankyoreh, “a teacher in charge of the disciplinary division personally cut the hair of 20 students at the school gates on the morning of Oct. 8.” Protesting youth can blame Lee Dae-young, acting chief of Seoul’s ministry of education. The municipal branch that’s meant to enforce the ordinance in fact repeated to Lee that he should enforce it, to which he effectively replied, No, let teachers do whatever they want. He has since totally ignored the government’s recommendations that he play by the rules. To quote one anonymous but perhaps villainous Seoul teacher in the Hankyoreh: “The time for that kind of nasty hair is over.”

LOTTE GREETS HI-MART PURCHASE

Welcome, early stages of global corpocracy: the Fair Trade Commission greenlit a proposal by Lotte to buy a 65-percent share in Hi-Mart for 1.24 trillion won (US$1.13 billion) in late October. According to the FTC, “We approved the deal as we determined that their combined businesses would not hurt the market significantly.” The FTC exists to stop giant companies like Lotte from taking over the world via throwing dollar bills at their competition to eliminate them. So all this says is that Hi-Mart is a small enough fish that Lotte won’t absorb it like some sort of snowballing Katamari Damacy ball and envelop the world—not as long as Hyundai, Homeplus and Shinsegae still exist. 12 HAPS_winter 2012/13

Korea & World News

10 MILLIONTH KOREAN TOURIST CELEBRATED

On Wednesday, November 21, Korea’s 10 millionth tourist (probably) walked through the gates of Incheon International. It’s a probable guess for a country that’s counted 9.46 million tourists in 2012 as of October 31, and is expecting around 11 million by New Year’s. When you consider that the ROK saw only 10,000 tourists circa 1961, a figure which slowly rose to five million by the new millennium, the last decade has produced a massive jump with its K-pop craze and leading-class tech leaps. But these 10 million aren’t doing enough. The Ministry of Tourism clocks in only 5.2 percent of Korea’s annual GDP, nearly half of the global average of 9.1 percent. But, at least, we may imagine one lucky person’s celebration, as s/he, the first 10 millionth, got rained down upon by colorful confetti and balloons in the middle of the airport on November 21.

NORTH GETS KNOCKED DOWN, BUT THEY GET UP AGAIN

Recall, if you will, when North Korea’s famous rocket-launching failed spectacularly back in April, in an attempt to celebrate the 100th birthday of national founder Kim Il-sung. The debacle was so undeniably embarrassing that even the state’s own propaganda newspaper had to acknowledge the mess-up. And yet here we are, so many months later, and NK is back at it. According to a South Korean military source in the Chosun Ilbo, “We’ve detected signs of personnel preparing for a rocket launch near the launch pad in Tongchang-ri after the fuselage was moved there from a military factory near Pyongyang early this month.” Apparently, there’s heightened activity of tents and trucks milling about the area, and upped their military training for both stealth infiltration and general winter exercises. All signs point to another attempt in either late December or January. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 13

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MATERIAL WORLD

MERRY CLICKMAS CAMERA PRICES TEND TO GO DOWN DURING THE HOLIDAY SEASON, CREATING AN OPPORTUNE TIME TO GET A LOT OF CAMERA FOR A LITTLE PRICE. AND THANKS TO SOME INNOVATIVE MINDS, YOU CAN EVEN GO BACK IN TIME. HERE ARE SOME GOOD PICKS FOR GREAT PICS.

POLAROID SX-70

Yes, you read that title right. The Impossible Project, a Netherlands firm composed partly of former Polaroid employees, has set about refurbishing all sorts of old cameras, including Polaroid classics such as the SX-70, which was first released in 1971. While there might be slight wear, the company guarantees all of the internal components are restored to factory specifications. According to the Impossible website, “The leather on the SX-70 is 40+ years old and may show signs of wear and age, but this will not affect the performance of the camera.” They ship all over the world, too. You can get more info about all the cool stuff IP is doing on their website: www.the-impossible-project.com 1. CAMERA AWESOME (IOS)

This free app that the entire tech world is raving about has too many features for the space offered here. Check it out at the app store.

PHOTO APPS FOR YOUR PHONE 1.

2. VIGNETTE (ANDROID)

Offers more than 70 customisable filters as well as digital zoom, a self-timer and more cool features. 3. PAPER CAMERA (ANDROID)

Real-time cartoon and painting effects illustrated directly on top of your images make for a cool look at a drab winter world. 4. PICSAY PRO (ANDROID)

While full of editing features, the most fun is the captioning and crop feature that allows you all sorts of creative options. 14 HAPS_winter 2012/13

Gadgets & Gear

CANON EOS REBEL T3I

If you are serious about your photos and feel a less expensive compact will simply not adequately cultivate your flourishing artistic talent, then dig a little deeper and start with Canon’s EOS Rebel T3i. Way back in 2003, Canon introduced its original Digital Rebel, which famously became known as the first ‘affordable’ digital SLR on the market. The latest version comes with 18 megapixels, HD 1080 video and the solid build and reliability that people have come to expect from Canon offerings since 1937. Here in Korea look to pay about 1,200,000 won, but, hey, isn’t capturing your latest meal for your friends on Facebook worth it?

SONY NEX-5R

Combining a sleek, stylish, lightweight design and interchangeable lenses with large-sensor image quality, the new Sony NEX-5R compact offers all the benefits of a DSLR in a portable package. An additionally cool feature of the NEX-5R is that it allows you to upload your photos directly from the camera to Facebook over Wi-Fi. If that’s not your thing, you can wirelessly transfer your images and videos directly to your phone or tablet on both the Android and Apple iOS platforms and touch them up to your liking. On the tech-side, the NEX5R offers a first for Sony’s interchangeable lens line, a “Fast Hybrid AF” autofocus technology that allows crisply accurate autofocus in just about any shooting situation. It was just released in late October, so look for it to be making its way to Korean shores soon for about 650,000 won. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 15

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ISSUE

SHAKING UP K-POP BY

JAMES TURNBULL ILLUSTRATION BY MATT FERGUSON

K-POP GIRL GROUPS WERE CRAFTED AND CREATED TO APPEAL TO 20-SOMETHING BOYS, BUT A LOT OF THE SONGS THEY SING NOWADAYS ARE TRENDING TOWARDS EMPOWERMENT AND INDEPENDENCE. YOU GO, K-GIRL!

ired of “Gangnam Style” and its numerous parodies? Finding it difficult to keep track of the hordes of pretty girl groups and boy bands, many of whom can’t actually sing? Wondering why you should even bother? Persevere. Because despite appearances, female singers are shaking up K-pop in ways that would have been unthinkable just a few years ago. Leading the charge is Ga-in of Brown Eyed Girls, who released “Bloom” as part of her mini-album Talk About S in October. Sporting blonde locks, two minutes into the video she suddenly appears in a tight red sweater, strongly resembling 1940s Hollywood actresses like Lana Turner—and just as sassy. Add leather hot pants and you immediately sense something big is up. And, indeed, almost before you know it, she’s masturbating on her kitchen floor. Yes, you read that right. As Dana D’Amelio, a writer at popular K-pop site Seoulbeats puts it, the video “doesn’t just come uncomfortably close to themes of the discovery of one’s sexuality, it portrays them using visuals that are both striking and shocking. I can’t think of any other K-pop music videos that portray masturbation and sex quite so literally.” Granted, it may sound more like pornography than anything else. And it’s also true that sex isn’t just pervasive in K-pop, but that courting a ban by the prudish Ministry of Gender Equality and Family (MOGEF)—as did happen to “Bloom”—has become a common and overused method of gaining publicity. With that background, it seems absurd to argue that Ga-in has 16 HAPS_winter 2012/13

in fact presented a rare vision of female empowerment here. Moreover, if you do follow K-pop, likely that’s a term you’ve heard a dozen times before. But consider the ways in which it’s usually meant. Take it with KARA for instance, the most successful Korean group in Japan. In “Mister”, one of their most popular songs, they quite literally presented a very sexual side to themselves with their famous ondongi-choom, or “butt dance”. Yet the actual lyrics reveal that, for all the protagonist’s supposed bravado, she can never muster the courage to actually approach said “Mister”. Instead, she mentally pleads with him to pay attention to her and make the first move. Likewise, “Gee, Oh!” and “Tell Me Your Wish” are some of the most iconic and best-known songs by Girls’ Generation, flagbearers of the Korean Wave. But, for all the leg displayed in the MVs, the common theme of the lyrics is the submissiveness, timidity, innocence and/or virginity of the singers, overwhelmed by their strange new feelings for the male love interest. While these are just a handful of songs, and those of many other groups—most notably 2NE1—arguably provide obvious exceptions, such enfeebling themes are repeated by a significant number of others (just try a Youtube search for the term “몰라,” for instance, which means “[I] don’t know”). What’s more, whenever you do hear that such groups are— yada yada yada—paving the way for a new generation of gutsy, emboldened Korean women, there’s a conspicuous absence of the voices of the singers themselves. Instead, you find it’s their entertainment agencies and/or the Korean government speak-

ing for them, both with strong vested interests in maintaining a positive image of the industry. However, it’s not the place of this author—a slightly fat, bald, middle-aged man—to tell any young female singer or consumer what they should and shouldn’t consider empowering. And, as if to ram that point home, many K-pop commentators were surprised to learn that Girls’ Generation’s Japanese fans are actually overwhelmingly women, despite the group being specifically created for men in their 20s and 30s. Also, one shouldn’t dismiss any female singer for pandering to the male gaze, let alone “slut-shaming” them for it. As Maria Buszek explains in Pin-Up Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, and Popular-Culture (2006), an eye-opening tome that deserves to be much better known, unfortunately all too many feminists are very uncomfortable with women who willingly flaunt their bodies for pleasure or profit, and especially their numerous female admirers. With that in mind, Hyuna of 4Minute is also frequently touted as a sexy, brazen role model for young Korean women; and “IceCream”, part of her mini-album Melting (released shortly after Ga-in’s), a great example of her in action. And this author is certainly not about to judge her for writhing around in a foam bath in her lingerie for the MV. Yet one crucial difference between that and what Ga-in does is that the former is gratuitous, whereas the latter is integral to the song. As D’Amelio puts it: “Though Ga-in is directly engaged in the act of sex and pleasure itself, she emerges as the empowered one; she is a willing and equal participant in her sexuality,

while HyunA is a carefully designed product intended for consumption by men and men alone.” On top of that, Brown Eyed Girls have a long tradition of taboobreaking and/or social commentary in their songs too, most notably “Abracadabra”, “Sixth Sense” and “Cleansing Cream” (the lyrics to all of which were written by Kim Eana, who also wrote Sunny Hill’s ground-breaking “Grasshopper Song” and “Is the White Horse coming?”). In contrast, the record of 4Minute is much more varied, if anything sharing only a streak of narcissism. By all means, these are (necessary) generalizations and oversimplifications, and fans of either group can certainly disagree with their characterizations of her—indeed, it is precisely the controversy, contrast and discussion that has been raised by these and many other songs that is their most encouraging aspect. So long as that continues, then surely it won’t be much longer before the Korean public no longer tolerates the ridiculous double-standards and puritanism of MOGEF. A trend that, as I discussed in my previous column for Haps, is already happening with Korean cinema. On that note, keep an eye out this Christmas, when Brown Eyed Girls will be giving the first-ever R18 concert by a girl group. Just don’t be surprised if the audience is mostly women. James Turnbull is a writer and public speaker on Korean feminism, sexuality, and pop culture. He can be found at the grandnarrative.com. Illustrator website: inkonpaper.org.uk 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 17

HCover STORY

WINTER HOT SPOTS (OUTSIDE OF KOREA)

OF THE MANY THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT LIVING IN KOREA, WINTER RESTS FIRMLY AT THE BOTTOM OF THE LIST. WITH THAT IN MIND, WE PUT TOGETHER FIVE HOT SPOTS WORTH ESCAPING TO THIS SEASON.

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AO LEUK BEACH, KOH TAO

KOH TAO, THAILAND Over the years, Koh Tao, which translates to “Turtle Island”, has become one of the cheapest, most popular dive spots for first-time divers the world over. Second only to Cairns in Australia, Koh Tao’s crystal clear waters PADI-certifies thousands of new divers yearly. Though mostly known for great diving and snorkelling, the 21-square kilometer paradise has become increasingly frequented by non-divers as well—especially those looking for beaches on par with nearby Koh Samui and Koh PhaNgan, without the hangover-seeking masses. For diving or snorkelling enthusiasts, the island really shines, with dozens of spectacular reefs and an abundance of marine life including hawksbill and green turtles

that use the area as their annual pick-up spot for mates. The most popular destination for tourists is Sairee, located on the west coast, with its gorgeous 1.7-kilometer stretch of white sandy beach. Head inland for great rock climbing and trekking to add a little something different to Koh Tao’s great mix of laid-back offerings and sexually-active terrapins. Getting there: Thai Airways generally offers the lowest prices on daily flights to Bangkok. From there you can fly to Ko Samui and grab a ferry over to Ko Tao. If you’re not in a hurry, book the overnight sleeper train from Hualamphong Station in Bangkok to Chumphon and hop on the ferry from there. For more info: www.kohtao.asia

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HCover STORY

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OPPOSITE PAGE: SRI MARIAMMAN HINDU TEMPLE IN SINGAPORE ABOVE: BASÍLICA MENOR DEL SANTO NIÑO, CEBU

SINGAPORE Singapore is one of those places that offers a little bit of everything with very little chance you will ever get bored. Whether it’s shopping along Orchard Road or wandering through virgin rainforests at the botanic gardens, there is always something interesting to keep you occupied in this unique little corner of the world. Being one of the world’s wealthiest nations per-capita, Singapore does quite well in the glitz department. There is great nightlife featuring clubs and bars to suit any taste and tons of great restaurants serving up a treasure trove of local and international cuisine. And for those unconcerned with their budget, there are dozens of art galleries where you can pick up a souvenir slightly more upscale than a t-shirt. Among the myriad of great spots to visit during the day is Heritage Chinatown where entire scenes from the late-19th century and early-20th century, including British colonial architecture, have been either restored or recreated. This authentic slice of Singapore history, which features a mesmerizingly colorful Hindu temple as well, is especially remarkable when viewed in contrast to the nearby groves of gleaming skyscrapers that mark the city skyline. As mentioned earlier, shopping is a popular tourist pursuit. If you are looking for the latest in high-tech, few places in the world rival Singapore for variety and low prices. And, luckily, they are all clumped in one area at the Funan Digitalife Mall and Sim Lim Square. In short, pound for pound (or kilo for kilo) the tiny island nation punches way above its weight and is the one hot spot that has a little bit of all the rest wrapped into one location. Getting there: Several airlines offer flights throughout the week from both Busan and Seoul. For more info: www.yoursingapore.com

of the island or the southwest coast for white sand and clear blue waters. But, before you do, there are some great historical sites worth checking out in Cebu City proper, as it was settled by Spain in the early 16th century to resupply and refit their Manila Galleon fleet on the journey between Mexico and Europe. Along with the Jesuit House and its peek at 18th century life of the Jesuit Order, Cebu is also home to the country’s oldest church, the Basílica Menor del Santo Niño. Consecrated in the 16th century, it was built on the spot where a purported image of baby Jesus was witnessed by Spanish explorers in 1565 in a burned wooden box left behind by Ferdinand Magellan 40 years earlier. Also while you’re in Cebu City, drop by and pay homage to the statue of Lapu-Lapu, a national hero in the Philippines who is remembered as the first native to stand up to Spanish colonialism when he led the Visayan forces that killed Magellan in 1521 during the Battle of Mactan, denying the Conquistador a chance to complete his round-the-world journey. (Though he gets credit for it anyway.) Getting there: As far as we know, the Manila Galleons are no longer servicing Cebu, so try Air Busan or Cebu Pacific, who both offer competitive prices direct to Cebu throughout the week. For more info on Cebu: www.cebu.gov.ph

CEBU, PHILIPPINES Though lacking the easy-going island feel of Asia’s other tropical destinations, Cebu offers a great warm weather winter getaway at very affordable prices. It’s not uncommon to score a ticket on Air Busan or Cebu Pacific for as low as 140,000 roundtrip, but expect to pay a little more during the winter season. If you’re looking for good beaches, head to the northern tip 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 21

HCover STORY

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LEFT: SNORKELLING IN PALAU ABOVE: BEAUTIFUL PERHENTIAN ISLAND BEACH

PALAU, THE REPUBLIC OF PALAU Listed on Lonely Planet’s lineup of “Top 10 Countries that Didn’t Exist 20 Years Ago”, Palau exists now (whatever that means) and we’re damn thankful for it. With some of the world’s best diving that features wartime wrecks, blue holes, giant clams and the underground, saltwater-fed Jellyfish Lake, where you can swim with a school of more than 20 million jellyfish, you might very well spend most of your time in Palau underwater. Above water, Palau has, over the millennia, passed through the hands of Philippine Negrito settlers 3,000 years ago, onto the Spanish, then the Germans, followed by the Japanese, and finally under the administration of the Americans who granted it republic sovereign status in 1994 while continuing to provide defense, infrastructure funding and access to social services. The island is also teeming with wildlife and fauna. From exotic birds flying below the jungle canopy to crocodiles chilling in the mangrove swamps, hiking around Palau guarantees great sights at every turn. Getting there: The downside is that getting to Palau will run you upwards of US$1,500 with flights out of Korea connecting through Taiwan and Japan. But, hey, sometimes paradise costs. For more info: www.visit-palau.com PERHENTIAN ISLANDS, MALAYSIA Located about 20 kilometers off the northeastern shores of Malaysia, the Perhentian Islands have some of Southeast Asia’s most incredible beaches. Another great thing about the Perhentians is that they are relatively unknown (even Lonely Planet doesn’t give them their full due), so you can take in the white sand and crystal blue seas with little in the way of other tourists to disturb your leisure. Located in a protected marine park, the two main islands are Perhentian Besar (“Big Perhentian”) and Perhentian Kecil (“Small Perhentian”), with Kecil offering the cheaper accommodations of the two. The clear waters off of the Perhentians (which means “stopping point” in Malay, for its historical role in trade between Bangkok and Malaysia) also make for some excellent diving and snorkelling. In addition to vast coral reefs and colorful fish life, the area is home to several species of sea turtles and sharks—none of them of them the dangerous, swim-back-to-shore-with-one-arm variety, unless you want to try your luck provoking them. Getting there: There are several carriers that fly into Kuala Lumpur, including the famously cheap AirAsia. From the airport, grab a taxi or bus to Kuala Besut Jetty, where you can catch a speedboat or slow boat for the Perhentians. For more info: www.perhentian.island.my. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 23

HInside

STORY

A BRIGHT DAY, INDEED BY

JEN SOTHAM

PHOTO COURTESY OF MARY

MCCARTNEY

HAPS’ CULTURE EDITOR JEN SOTHAM SITS DOWN WITH FILM DIRECTOR SIMON ABOUD TO TALK ABOUT HIS JOURNEY INTO FILMMAKING, THE MEANING OF THE WORD “VALUE” AND WHAT IT’S LIKE TO BE SON-IN-LAW TO ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS MEN IN THE WORLD.

ack in October, as the closing credits rolled at a Busan International Film Festival screening of the film Comes a Bright Day, my friends and I gave each other strong, slow nods of approval. For a first-time feature director, Simon Aboud had delivered a masterfully told story with a polished look and killer soundtrack. Enter Aboud, whose laid-back demeanor and insightful answers to the post-screening Q&A had me wondering, “What makes this guy tick?” When the Q&A finished, I made a beeline for Aboud, who eagerly agreed to a sit-down over lunch. After almost 20 years in advertising, where he oversaw high profile campaigns for Coca-Cola, Microsoft, Bacardi and MTV, Aboud walked away from his lucrative job at McCann-Erickson to pursue filmmaking. As our waiter collects our menus, I ask Simon about the impetus for his career shift. “I’ve always wanted, since the age of about eight, to be a film director. Advertising was just a way of getting to direct feature films. If you want to make films, you have to find your way into it somehow. You know, when I got into advertising, some of the biggest film directors were coming out of advertising. It seemed like a good training ground.” Comes a Bright Day has had an interesting journey from script to screen. Originally, Aboud was set to direct a different script of his, called This Beautiful Fantastic. Despite the fact that he had heavy hitters such as Tom Wilkinson and Bill Nighy attached, he failed to get it financed. 24 HAPS_winter 2012/13

“Basically, I thought, ‘I just gotta get a film made,’ and so I wrote Comes a Bright Day. I’d always had this story in my head. I like the idea of this kid who has nothing and kind of wants everything. My dad had this saying, which I guess has always stuck with me—”You know the price of everything and the value of nothing.” He offers up Shinsegae (which he comically mispronounced) as an example. “There’s a wine cellar downstairs and they’re selling this wine. It’s not a spectacularly good year and its not a spectacularly good wine, but they’re selling it for, like, two thousand dollars a bottle, and someone’s going to buy it. People wear these things as badges.” Comes a Bright Day explores the idea of value, both in obvious ways and in subtleties contained in the character arcs. The film tells the story of a blossoming romance set against the backdrop of a robbery gone wrong in an antique jewelry store. Despite the fact that the price tags on his wares are exorbitant, Charlie, the shop’s owner (magnificently portrayed by Timothy Spall), is quite disdainful of money. He then muses about the difference between value and price tag. “I love the idea of jewelry that has stories attached to it. You walk down Bond Street in London, and you can walk into somewhere like Moussaieff or Chaumet or any of those places where someone has designed a ring and it costs a million

ABOVE: SCENES FROM THE MOVIE ‘COMES A BRIGHT DAY’

pounds because it’s got eight carats of blah-di-blah. Then “Is it okay to ask you a question related to your personal life?” you can go into S.J.Phillips and the guy will sit you down and Simon smiles and nods. He knew it was coming. I mean, it’s say, ‘In 1845, this was commissioned by Lord Blah-Blah-Blah Paul friggin’ McCartney, he’s gotta know it’s always coming. on his return from India for his wife who he hadn’t seen for Here is this truly talented man trying to make a name for four years and he commissioned it by letter, and he sent them himself as a filmmaker, and he has married the daughter of drawings.’ It’s extraordinary, the real kind of thought that went someone who’s incredibly famous. into these things, real detail and love an affection rather than Simon laughed. “He’s quite famous, yeah.” just flash.” Okay, like the most famous person possible. I know that this I wonder aloud how a first-time director was able to secure has garnered a lot of attention towards him, and I’m curious if such a stellar cast, from indie darlings Craig Roberts and Imo- this has influenced his career path at all. gen Poots to Grey’s Anatomy’s Kevin McKidd to screen veteran “The short answer is no,” he said. “I mean, I wonder if it Timothy Spall. Simon makes the casting process sound like a would have if I’d been a lot younger. I’m very aware that no-brainer. what I need to do is what I need to do—it has nothing to do “I knew Imogen’s agent, so I sent the script, we did a Skype with him. But, Paul and I will go out and have coffee and call, and that was done. Then Craig came to the readings, and we’re talking normal stuff, and as we say our goodbyes he’ll he nailed it, and that was done. Kevin came up on a list of turn around and this whole heap of people are like, caught people, and I thought he’d be perfect to play Cameron, and we in the headlights. And suddenly you realize just who this is. did that one via Skype.” He’s so famous and the light is so bright—it’s just easier for Simon leans forward, and any air of nonchalance vanishes me to go my own way. I don’t see it creating anything other from his voice. than expectation.” “And then there was Tim. The problem is that if you’re shootWhat about doors being opened for him? ing an English independent “The thing is, it hasn’t film, and you have some“I’VE ALWAYS WANTED, SINCE THE AGE opened any doors in one that age in it, then you The peoOF ABOUT EIGHT, TO BE A FILM DIREC- filmmaking. will have a list that has these ple that Paul would TOR. ADVERTISING WAS JUST A WAY OF know in Hollywood are quite heavyweight guys and none of them need to work GETTING TO DIRECT FEATURE FILMS. IF not the people who I’d and all of them get every have any conversaYOU WANT TO MAKE FILMS, YOU HAVE tion with at this stage script. So you just get, ‘No, no, no, haven’t read, can’t TO FIND YOUR WAY INTO IT SOMEHOW.” in my career. Maybe be bothered,’ whatever. And somewhere down the then I just got the most lovely phone call from Tim. He was line, but they’re the kind of people who’d only talk to me if very sweet, he said, ‘I’ve read your script, I’d love to do it.’ I they’d seen the body of work I’d done and it would be purely was like, ‘Wow.’ The first time I met him, he said, ‘You know, on merit.” I’m very nervous about playing this character,’ and I was like, His relationship with Sir Paul did open one very special door. ‘Get out of here,’ and he was like, ‘No, I still get very, very “The coolest thing is that he let me use his music for the film. nervous about getting into characters.’ Then on the first day I never asked him for it. We got well into the production of filming he turned up and I was like, ‘Action,’ and bang, he process and he came up to me one day and he handed me was on it.” a CD and said, ‘See if you like anything on this.’ It wasn’t Our food arrives and our conversation turns to New York. The Beatles’ music or Wings music, but there was this We compare notes on favorite neighborhoods, chat about the track—track 22...” city’s constant state of flux, pontificate about the intimacy of The second it comes out of his mouth, I know exactly which New York and the warmth of its people. track he is referring to—the funky, piano-fueled song that “New York is one of those places... When you meet some- opened and closed Comes A Bright Day. In fact, while watchone who doesn’t like New York, you literally have to question ing the film, my friend and I had leaned in at the same mowhat’s wrong with them.” ment and whispered, “Wow, what is this music?” As we share a laugh, I think, ‘Okay—here’s my chance.’ Just We had done as much damage as we could on the three before our meeting, I did a Google search to prepare. The curries we had ordered. Simon eyes a nearby TV screen first results page turned up a host of articles about Aboud, playing Indian music videos. and most were all tagged with a familiar name... McCartney. “I could watch Bollywood all day. It’s mesmerizing.” Turns out, Aboud married Paul and Linda McCartney’s oldHe shrugs and lets a kid-like smirk creep across his lips. est daughter, photographer Mary McCartney, in 2010. I know “It is pretty cool. I mean, I reckon there are few directors I have to ask him about this, but I am tentative about how to that Paul McCartney would walk up to and say, ‘Hey, do you frame the question. like any of these songs?’ 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 25

HInside

STORY

KOREA IMPOSSIBLE: AN INTERVIEW WITH DANIEL TUDOR BY

BOBBY McGILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEO JI-HYE

ECONOMIST CORRESPONDENT AND AUTHOR OF THE NEW BOOK, KOREA: THE IMPOSSIBLE COUNTRY, TALKS ABOUT THE KOREAN BRAND, WHAT TOURISTS REALLY WANT AND KOREA’S DRIVE TOWARDS THE IMPOSSIBLE.

f those with even a brief experience dealing with South Koreans, there is one thing on which all will concur: they are a proud people. Proud of their food, their history and their culture, while imbued with an abundant sense of achievement regarding all the country has done in such a short span of time. That is not to say that Korean pride begets satisfaction. Far from it. As collective narrators of the world’s most improbable tale of rags to riches, the Korean storyline remains painfully strained and irrevocably anchored to writing the next chapter, all the while crafting weighty expectations into the story arc of characters that might better be called impossible rather than improbable. It is from this point of view that Daniel Tudor writes his recently released book, Korea: The Impossible Country. Though a fitting title, the idea for using it first came about during an interview with a former aid of late dictator Park Chung-hee, who remarked that back in the 1950s, “Korea was the poorest, most impossible country on the planet.” A wide-ranging, Sunday-on-the-sofa read, Tudor’s book spans Korean history from its mythical founding by Dangun to the modern glitz of the world’s 15th-largest economy. He does so by means of personal insights, coupled with assorted interviews featuring notable Koreans ranging from Oldboy’s Choi Min-sik to a Shaman priestess to the country’s first astronaut, Yi So-yeon. I recently had a chance to interview the interviewer and get some of his thoughts on life here on the peninsula. Born in Stalybridge, England, just outside of Manchester, and educated in politics, philosophy and economics at Oxford, the 30-year-old Tudor has spent the past five years living in Seoul 26 HAPS_winter 2012/13

as a correspondent for both The Economist and Newsweek. While thankful to be here covering the “impossible”, he is even more grateful that it’s only in the role of professional observer. “I love living here, but often, I feel thankful that I'm not part of this society's rat race,” said Tudor, before segueing into the dual meaning of his book’s title. “I think that this society makes life 'impossible' for its citizens in some way, by setting up impossible ideals to live up to, and forcing people to accept a very narrow definition of what 'success' can be.” This irresolvable notion of success and the path to get there, from attaining high test scores to cosmetic surgery, is widely spoken of in Tudor’s book, his first, which now takes its place in the sparsely occupied English-language canon on Korea. Before settling in for his five-year stint, he had been coming to Korea off and on since 2002. His covering Korea for two of the world’s most famous publications came by chance. “I just applied online for an internship with The Economist in 2008. I decided to apply on the spur of the moment, on deadline day. It was a really lucky thing that I did, because it changed my life.” During his time here, Tudor has witnessed vast changes. The nickname “Hermit Kingdom” is a dated cliché, as is “The Land of the Morning Calm”, but South Korea is still weaving its way into the global conscious for attributes other than Samsung, Hyundai, K-pop and breaking news related to the non-resident string of North Korean Kims. For the first time in its history, the country must consider the concept of “soft power” and the image it projects to the world. With that in mind, over the past several years, the government has made great efforts to brand itself. Many observers, including Tudor, say these efforts have missed the mark.

TOP: INTERVIEWING MOON JAE-IN (PHOTO COURTESY OF THE OFFICE OF MOON JAE-IN) BOTTOM: WITH YI SEOK, DESCENDANT OF KOREAN ROYALTY.

“The thinking is, 'What do we want foreigners to recognize so that often leads to boring interviews. And if you criticise about us?' Usually the answer is all that is 'traditional', safe, someone, they are liable to go ape on you. There's a little overand frankly not that exciting,” said Tudor. “Koreans themselves sensitivity, especially where the foreign press is involved.” don't, by and large, get excited about pansori (traditional KoPart of Tudor’s job is keeping up with the Korean media. As rean songs) or traditional dance, and yet the rest of the world for his fluency in Hangeul, he says, “It is about 50 percent. I is supposed to? The question instead should be, 'What in our can read a newspaper slowly, but my speaking isn't so great.” culture will be interesting or inspiring to people from other What about his take on the newspapers he reads? countries, and how should we provide it?'” “The media is a business, with each article clicked on a source Tudor feels that ordinary life in Korea is its most marketable of revenue. It is unfortunately in the interests of the media to quality and that tourism should emerge organically, without pander to basic fears and biases, and exaggerate everything, perceived notions of because doing so makes what foreigners want to more money. And in these THE BIG QUESTION, AS FAR AS I’M CON- days of declining revenue, it do when coming here. “I think it's all about the CERNED, IS NOW, CAN KOREA START TO becomes even more temptexperience, rather than, Just wait and see how ABANDON ITS OVERZEALOUS COMPETI- ing. ‘Look at this old palace, this election is reported: It'll TION MANIA? COMPETITION IS WHAT be fascist Park Geun-hye and go to this kimchi museum.’ I've had loads GOT KOREA THIS FAR, BUT AS TIME GOES versus commie Moon Jaeof people visit me over in, depending on whose BY IT IS BECOMING A HINDRANCE. the years and they've all story you read.” been impressed by how much fun Korea can be—let's say we Returning to his book, I wonder: What if the publisher go out for an evening, eat some great food, drink makgeolli, comes back asking that his next book be titled, “Korea: The talk to random locals in a pojang macha (small tent restau- Possible Country”? rants), do some noraebanging (karaoke), and so on, but the “The big question, as far as I'm concerned, is now, can Korea government never promotes that. They even move pojang ma- start to abandon its overzealous competition mania? Competicha out of the way when big international events come to Ko- tion is what got Korea this far, but as time goes by it is becomrea, as though they were something to be ashamed of.” ing a hindrance, not just psychologically but also economiTudor says that he still has a few more books to write while cally, in many indirect ways. If Korea can be flexible enough he is here, but for now, journalism pays the rent and he is per- to change in this regard, then it will be a truly 'possible', not to fectly content covering the quickly evolving Korea. mention, happier country.” “Korea is a great long-term story. I love this theme of developmentalism giving way and Lee Myung-bak being the last deYou can get Daniel Tudor’s book in selected bookstores, order velopmentalist president of Korea.” it online in Korea at www.whatthebook.com or download the What about the drawbacks of being a foreign correspondent Kindle version through Amazon.com. based in Seoul? “On the downside, people don't like to be so outspoken here,

2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 27

HSports

TALK

SKI KOREA

IN A COUNTRY THAT’S 70 PERCENT MOUNTAINS AND HOME TO A LONG COLD WINTER, YOU CAN EXPECT THERE TO BE SOME GOOD SPOTS TO SKI. FOR BUSANITES, THERE’S ONE HITCH: IT’S A SERIOUS TREK TO REACH THEM. THE PEAK WINTER SKI SEASON RUNS FROM MIDDECEMBER TO MID-FEBRUARY AND AS WITH MOST SEASONAL ATTRACTIONS IN THE ROK, EXPECT A LOT OF COMPANY ON THE SLOPES. HERE ARE A FEW PLACES WORTH A LOOK.

MUJU RESORT

Standing 1530 meters, Muju features the peninsula’s highest and longest slopes, as well as a Nordic Run spanning 48km from Muju to Chonju. Kangsan Travel, located in Jangsan, sells package trips from Busan including chair lift, transport and rentals at a reasonable price. www.mujuresort.com 063-322-9000

BEAR’S TOWN

While the chances of seeing a bear are as likely as seeing an ajumma take to the slopes in the buff, there is some decent skiing to be had here. There are also hot springs and good local grub. Several hotels near the resort if you don’t wanna pay resort prices.

www.bearstown.com 031-540-500

SUNGWOO

HIGH 1

www.hdsungwoo.co.kr 033-340-3600

www.high.co.kr 033-590-7811

You can take a train to Wonju Station and then hop in a taxi for a 20-30 minutes, or hitch a ride on the local shuttle bus that runs during the day to the resort. There are plenty of hotels near the resort. Not one of the higher mountains, but the runs are good.

28 HAPS_winter 2012/13

Stop with the stoner jokes. This is the newest ski resort in Korea, and it has all the modern amenities including those absolute-musts, like a couple casinos. Catch a train from Seoul’s Chongnyangni Station at 9:50 p.m., which arrives at 1:45 a.m., and ski the next day.

PHOENIX PARK

Near Yongpyong and boasting 1050 meters at its peak, Phoenix Park is considered to be one of the country’s more snowboard-friendly resorts. If you’re looking to whip it around without teeing off the ski bunnies, this is your spot.

www.phoenixpark.co.kr 1588-2828

PINE RESORT

If you happen to be up in smog central for a few days, Pine Resort is close to Seoul and offers fair-to-midland skiing for the average Joe or Josephine. But if you’re going all the way from B-Town, pass.

www.pinersorts.com 031-338-2001

YONGPYONG

Opened in 1976, Yongpyong sits way up in Gangwon Province, so count on a long bus ride or Mugunghwa train from Busan, unless you prefer to jump over from Seoul. It’s worth the trip since it has some great slopes shooting as tall as 1350 meters.

KT SONIC BOOM SCHEDULE WEDNESDAY, DEC 12 - WONJU DONGMU PROMY SUNDAY, DEC 16 - INCHEON ET LAND THURSDAY, DEC 20 - SAMSUNG THUNDER SATURDAY, DEC 22 - ULSAN MOBIS PHOEBUS THURSDAY, DEC 27 - GOYANG ORIONS SATURDAY, DEC 29 - KCC EGIS THURSDAY, JAN 3 - ANYANG KGC SATURDAY, JAN 12 - SAMSUNG THUNDER FRIDAY, JAN 18 - LG SAKERS SUNDAY, JAN 20 - SK KNIGHTS THURSDAY, JAN 31 - ULSAN MOBIS PHOEBUS

www.yongpyong.co.kr 033-335-5757

EDEN VALLEY

Near Ulsan, Sinbulsan and her seven runs are home to the only ski resort in our very own Gyeongsang Province. You can get there on a bus in a few hours. Two of the slopes are for beginners, three for intermediate skiers and two for advanced.

www.english.yangsan.go.kr 055-379-8000

GANGCHEON

Most notably for featuring ice-climbing on nearby frozen waterfalls for those who want a bit more of an adrenaline rush. It also has a few steep runs, unique location and plenty of accommodations in the nearby town. The train departs from both Cheongnyangni or Seongbuk Station. When you get off the train, turn right to go into town. The local shuttle buses or taxis will get you to the hill in short order.

www.gangchonresort.co.kr 033-260-2000 WHEN TO GO: Resorts open around mid-to-late November, with the peak season for skiing running from December 15 to February 15. It’s generally better, if you can swing it, to hit them on a weekday to avoid the crowds. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 29

30 HAPS_winter 2012/13

2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 31

HTravel

INTERNATIONAL

GREAT WALL, REFRESHED

BY MICHAEL FRAIMAN

ISOLATED FROM CHINA’S POLLUTION AND PRICE-GOUGING, GREAT WALL FRESH TURNS THE COUNTRY’S BIGGEST TOURIST ATTRACTION INTO A UNIQUELY MEDITATIVE EXPERIENCE.

ccording to Google Maps, Chen Yang’s farm is situated in the middle of a patch of complete, unblemished grayness. There is no Street View. Driving directions on his website are an exhausting 368 words long: Jingzang Expressway to Badaling, a tunnel to exit 62, keep right after a Uturn 200 meters after a toll booth at a fork in the road. It’s safe to say that Chen and his family live in the middle of nowhere. So what’s easiest is to pay them 600 yuan (roughly a hundred bucks) for a round-trip car ride from a northern Beijing subway station to their family farm in Chenjiapu Valley. If traffic’s bad, which it was for us, it can take a full hour to escape Beijing’s filthy suburbs and abysmally wide streets to reach what, at first, appears to be “rural China”: a gaggle of crumbly bungalow walls, single dirt lanes, twists and turns through the communist state’s shrubby mountains. But that’s just the halfway mark. Only once paved roads disappear, and one passes a donkey carting two old men smoking on rickety wooden planks, does one realize 32 HAPS_winter 2012/13

that one has yet to witness “rural China” whatsoever. Chen’s home, as far from Beijing as Daegu is from Busan, is less a house and more a series of concrete standalone single-room buildings painted white, set upon a large plot of land with a garden in the center. When we arrived, the women of the house—one just past middle-aged, one in her 30s—sat us down in the sweltering heat of their backyard and laid out an English menu. The Chens themselves, however, speak no English—not even the Konglish chitchat one comes to expect living an expat’s life in South Korea. It took 15 minutes of Google Translate to clarify that we wished to take a hike of mid-range difficulty (there are three options, only one of which is “easy” and is still three hours long). We unpacked the bulk of our bags in one of their rooms, grabbed fridge-cooled bottles of water and set off with the younger of the two women. She led us to the beginning of the unmarked trek. We followed her uphill for 20 minutes, passing scuttling lizards as she practically skipped by, cheerful singing and picking branches to whack at bushes, ostensibly to ward off wild animals. Soon we

met a crew of descending Caucasians; at the group’s tail stood Mr. Chen himself, wearing a long-sleeved fleece polo and the kind of loose-fitting striped dress trousers one might find cheap at a Nampo-dong thrift shop. He smiled as the other foreigners continued their descent, breaking for no longer than one minute before restarting his mountain climb with us in tow. The entry point of the wall is a decrepit section of the 21,000-kilometer-long, centuries-old behemoth; stones have crumbled into a heap and been reassembled into de facto stairs onto the wall itself. Chen handed us crisp, bright red farm tree apples and miniature fresh-picked cherry apples from his knapsack, encouraging us to shout into the valley below, which we did, creating a palpable echo that rattled the otherwise totally quiet nature surrounding us. The Chenjiapu section of the Great Wall is overgrown with weeds and covered in dirt, ravished by hundreds of years of wind and rain. But the guard towers are still relatively intact. I immediately noticed that these structures drew out dreams of both the child and adult in me: I wished I were an archaeologist, able to appreciate its ancient beauty, yet it’d be way more

awesome to be 10 years old with a paintball gun. After we’d climbed back down to the farm, the older woman immediately offered us an unbelievable late lunch: homegrown potato and pork stew, scrambled egg and green onion pancakes, tangy tofu-cucumber salad, freshly-grown and roasted almonds, Hebei radishes, hard-boiled quail eggs. Chen’s seriously shaggy dog (like, so shaggy he’s got dried shit specks hanging off all the shaggy hair covering his bum) waddled up to us before rejoining Chen’s quietly leering cat, watching us inhale the food and cheap Chinese beer. Behind all this, literally, stood the Great Wall: an idyllic backdrop, impenetrably vast, forever strong, taunting us with its picturesqueness just a few kilometers away. It taunted us at the farm and snaked along the highway, taunting us past the yellow mountain, past the highway interchange, back into Beijing and beyond, in my mind, where it still taunts me today.

Prices, contact info, menus and the rest can be found at Great Wall Fresh’s website, made by one kind expat few years back: www.greatwallfresh.com 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 33

HKorean

HOLIDAY

‘TIS THE SEASON SOLAR NEW YEAR HAPPENINGS There’s plenty to do around the city this New Year’s—from the traditional to the local bar and club scene or a quiet sunrise on the beach. Around one million visitors and locals hit the city’s festivals, which turn into the city’s largest winter gathering. The Dadaepo Sunrise Festival, the Haeundae Beach Sunrise Festival and the traditional “Bell of Hope”, “Bell of Love” and “Bell of Peace” ringing 11 times each at Yongdusan Park ring in the new year with a slew of concerts and activities for the family. Check out the Busan Haps event page at busanhaps.com/events as the holidays approach. BUSAN CHRISTMAS TREE FESTIVAL

The Fourth Annual Christmas Tree Festival hits Nampo-dong’s main thoroughfare again this year. The festival runs December 1 through January 6, highlighted by the Christmas Tree Festival belt, a 450-meter-long decorated road; there are also traditional Christmas songs to be performed under this year’s slogan, “Shine a Light for Peace.” Other seasonal events to look for include the Songdo Beach and the Kosin University Christmas Tree Festivals.

For more information, you can check out www.bctf.kr/xe (Korean only). Take the subway to Nampo Station, walk 10 minutes out exit 1 to Gwangbok-dong. You can also hop on any of the following buses: 5-1, 6, 7, 9, 11, 17, 26, 41, 61, 71, 113 or 1003 (to Nampodong Geukjang-ga). 34 HAPS_winter 2012/13

LUNAR NEW YEAR: FEBRUARY 10 Lunar New Year, or Seollal (撲陳), as it is commonly known in Korea, falls on a Sunday in 2013, making the three-day holiday run from a Saturday through Monday. Seollal falls on the day of the second new moon after the winter solstice, and is the most important Korean holiday after Chuseok. Many Koreans like to visit east coast locations such as Gangneung and Donghae in Gangwon Province to also catch the first glimpse of the sun as it rises for the first time in the New Year. Traffic is at its worst, so be prepared for some long commutes if you plan on hitting the roads.

ASK A LOCAL NAME: Song Min-jeong OCCUPATION: KBL cheerleader RESIDENCE: Changwon WHAT IS A PLACE TO SEE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? I’d recommend Insadong in Seoul. You can see Korean traditional houses there, and you will feel like you’re in the 1980s. It’s so wonderful! WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN? I like to eat anything near the Gwangalli seaside. It’s especially really sweet to eat sashimi with your partner. It costs just around 10,000 won. DO YOU HAVE ANY NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS? I have started my new life since I got a job recently. I even have a part-time job too, so I became independent from my parents two months ago. In the new year, I will save a bunch of money and do my filial duty to my parents. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO GO SHOPPING IN BUSAN? I used to go around the streets of Busan National University, but lately I usually go to the underground shopping area in Seomyeon. NAME: Jang Byung-jin OCCUPATION: Sports reporter, Busan Ilbo RESIDENCE: Dong-gu WHAT IS A PLACE TO SEE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? Gwangju. It has very famous food and good weather. I think Korea is the fastest country to develop democracy, which has made Gwangju very memorable. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN? Taejongdae. You can walk the Taejongdae sightseeing course, which will make you very hungry! The seafood, especially burned clams, with the great scenery is fantastic. DO YOU HAVE ANY NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS? I want to climb more mountains in Korea. I want to be healthy and have a slim body. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO GO SHOPPING IN BUSAN? I think the best place is Seomyeon. It has everything from a traditional market to department stores and cutting-edge fashion. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 35

Cultural Corner

GOING HOLISTIC BY MEG RUSHBROOK PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAIZEN WELLNESS WORKROOM

SOME OF US NEED AN EXCUSE TO GET IN SHAPE. THERE’S A BIG ONE COMING SOON, AND IT’S TIME TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF IT.

hose classic holiday words are back: “It’s the most wonderful time of the year.” No, not Christmas—it’s time to make a New Year’s resolution. Some roll their eyes, some get a glimmer of enthusiasm, but who doesn’t love the prospect of starting a new year with a clean slate? For a lot of us, resolutions involve losing weight or “getting buff”. Life-changing and meaningful goals, right? But if they’re so important, why do we often fail? Is our focus wrong? The focus with these goals is usually always on the outside—being skinny, buff, sexy, etc. Anytime one focuses solely on the outside, the results will always be short-lived. While wading knee-deep through the swamp of web-based info on diet and exercise, it’s easy to give up. Living in a foreign country without access to health and fitness professionals that speak your native tongue makes it even easier. This year, try rethinking your goal: most people go on a diet to lose weight, but lose steam after a while. Others obsessively exercise at the gym or run every day, but they lose motivation. What I suggest is a holistic approach to wellness, rather than a “lose weight fast scheme”. “Holistic” simply means taking everything into consideration, looking at the whole. Your diet, your activity level, the amount of sleep you get, the amount of stress you endure and even your mindset all contribute to how your body looks and functions.

36 HAPS_winter 2012/13

Here are a few simple and effective ways to incorporate holistic living in your life that your body will reward you for. ONE: Eat as close to nature as possible. The less your food has been touched (read: processed), the more your body likes it. Things full of color and water are full of the nutrients your body needs. When you eat a large pizza and are still hungry, it’s not because you haven’t eaten enough food—you haven’t taken in enough nutrients. TWO: Move. My students do yoga and practically run laps all day long, but they don’t see it as exercise; they see it as fun and natural. Find a fun way to move: dance with your friends, or alone in front of the mirror; skip around your parking garage; get some audiobooks and walk around your neighborhood. THREE: Rest. Take some time out for yourself. Resting on the couch watching Parks and Recreation doesn’t count. Unplug from the electronic world and plug in to yourself. Meditate, pray, think, plan, hope, dream—slow down and breathe deeply. Your stress will melt away. FOUR: Sleep. Sleeping is one of the most important things we can do for our health. During sleep, all of our hormones are charged and refilled. These hormones are responsible for everything from weight loss to mental performance to sex drive. A good night’s sleep should never be underrated. FIVE: Find a community. Having a group of people to work out with, share recipes with and even lean on for moral support is priceless. There are lots of gyms in Korea that have communities of like-minded individuals. Find one.

Ask an Expat

EXPAT EXTRACTS NAME: Amelia Maria Tantono AGE: 21 HOMETOWN: Jakarta, Indonesia OCCUPATION: University Student HOW LONG IN KOREA? Three years WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I always wanted to study abroad since I was young, and I saw that Korea is quite promising because many Korean companies have started their businesses in Indonesia. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE BIGGEST CULTURE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN YOUR COUNTRY AND KOREA? Ninety percent of Indonesians are Muslim and don’t drink. On the other hand, Koreans really like to drink, and drinking is a part of their culture. So I was quite surprised when I first came here. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: Shinsegae Centum City is a must, as it is “The Biggest Department Store in The World”, and Gwangan Bridge at night is very beautiful. Nampo-dong is also great for shopping. BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? I like samgyeopsal and, to be honest, I eat quite a lot. So I like to eat in a buffet restaurant called SelfBar around Kyungsung University because the price is reasonable and it has many different kinds of foods. HOW MUCH LONGER DO YOU SEE YOURSELF STAYING IN KOREA? I’ll graduate in February 2014, so I will be in Korea at least until then. I’m thinking to work for about one or two years in Korea, then go back to my country for good. NAME: Mathieu Baduel AGE: 33 HOMETOWN: Aix en Provence, France OCCUPATION: French Teacher HOW LONG IN KOREA? A year and a half WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I came here to teach French at Busan Alliance Française. Korea is not very popular in France, but I lived six years in China before, and all my Chinese friends kept telling me about how great Korea is, so I was curious to see what it was all about. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: What I liked most in Busan was going to eLune or Hive nightclub in Haeundae, and watching the sunrise on the beach in the morning. If you don’t like clubs, I’d recommend going to Hwangryungsan at night to enjoy the view over the whole city. It’s a very famous getaway for most Korean couples. BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? Definitely Chungsapo (청사포) for eating. It’s a little port between Dalmaji and Songjeong Beach where you can have grilled seafood, the best shells and eel in Busan, while enjoying the view on the sea. For drinking, near Kyungsung University there are a lot of secret bars (GolMok, Radio) where you can relax, have a beer and choose your music from a huge collection of LPs and CDs. For partying, definitely Haeundae clubs. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 37

Home Cooking

VEGAN PATE AND PUMPKIN SCONES THE DISH:

BY FRANKIE HERRINGTON

GOT YOUR WINTER WEAR PULLED OUT OF THE CLOSET YET? IF YOU HAVEN’T AND YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO WARM UP YOUR INSIDES TOO, OUR RESIDENT VEGAN URBANITE HAS WHIPPED UP TWO AWESOME RECIPES THAT WILL HELP KEEP YOU NICE AND COZY IN THE COLD WINTER MONTHS AHEAD.

PUMPKIN SCONES: Lightly flavored with ginger, a touch of nutmeg and cinnamon, these scones are perfect with a hot coffee. TIME: 30 minutes INGREDIENTS: • 1/2 cup sugar • 3 1/2 cups flour • 2 tsp baking powder • 1/2 tsp baking soda • 2 tsp ginger powder • 1 tsp nutmeg • 1 tsp cinnamon • 1/2 cup plant based butter • 2 cups pureed pumpkin PUMPKIN PUREE: Chop a small sweet pumpkin into eighths and cook side-down in an inch of water at 200˚C for 30-40 minutes. Once cooled, scoop out the pumpkin flesh and pulse into a blender until smooth. Add warm water if necessary.

VEGAN PATE: TIME: 50 minutes + overnight setting time INGREDIENTS: 3 tbsp toasted sunflower seeds 3 cups + 2 tbsp water 1 large finely diced yellow onion 1 tsp crushed fennel seeds 1/2 tsp dried thyme leaves 2 cloves minced garlic 1 tbsp tomato paste 1/4 cup dry white wine or apple cider 1 1/2 cups of rinsed, dried red lentils 1 bay leaf 1 tsp salt ground black pepper basil or mint to garnish DIRECTIONS: Brush oil on the sides and base of a large loaf pan, sprinkle sunflower seeds and set aside. In a large pot, cook the onion in 2 tbsp of water on a med-high heat, for 5-6 minutes. Stir in fennel, thyme, garlic and tomato paste stirring constantly until the water evaporates, about 1 minute. Add the remaining 3 cups of water, lentils and bay leaf. Bring to the boil then cover for 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper and cook a further 10-20 minutes until the lentils form a coarse puree. Remove the bay leaf and add more salt to taste. The mixture should be thick and smooth. If it’s still runny, cook uncovered, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Ladle puree into the loaf pan and leave uncovered at room temperature until cooled. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Flip onto a plate to serve. 38 HAPS_winter 2012/13

DIRECTIONS: In a large mixing bowl, combine and mix dry ingredients. Using a knife, cut in the butter a bit at a time then crumble together with your fingers. Add the pumpkin and combine well. On a lightly floured surface, knead the dough and cut into 12 or so triangle pieces. Bake on a lightly greased tray at 180˚C for 12-15 minutes, or until done.

Dining & Food

CRAZY FOR CUPCAKES BY KENDALL MAIZE

A TIP OF THE HAT TO DAVID PARK FOR OPENING BUSAN’S FIRST CUPCAKE SHOP, AND TO KENDALL MAIZE FOR TELLING THE TALE.

was sitting in a park in New York City with my childhood friend as she told me about a guy she was dating. I was only half listening, because my mind was being blown by my first-ever gourmet cupcake. She eventually married him, and I have continued a near matrimonial love affair with cupcakes. I’m not alone in this love affair. Cupcakes have a legion of followers: the wee snack cakes are popular enough to have generated their own reality show back in the States, Cupcake Wars, which is currently in its seventh season. Thanks to some innovative entrepreneurs (and an episode of Sex and The City), the humble little cake has been elevated from tasty treat to international craze. In Busan, we can thank David Park for opening the city’s first gourmet cupcake shop, Red Velvet. While studying English in Australia, David developed an interest in baking. Upon his return to Korea he thought that cupcakes would be a good addition to Busan’s culinary scene. Before opening his shop he

traveled to Los Angeles, New York and Japan. He wanted to discover the key to cupcake success. Park’s favorite cupcake is, predictably, the red velvet, which he has perfected. A soft red cake in color and flavor that melts in your mouth, topped by a cream cheese frosting so subtle that it required a few bites until I was convinced it was cream cheese. The frosting and cake compliment each other beautifully in texture and flavor. Red Velvet in Nampo has been open for five years now. It is a family operation, run by Park as well as his wife and sister. All three are artists and their work decorates the walls, windows and canvases that give the shop its cute, comfy and retro feel. The cupcakes are baked fresh daily and the decorative swirls and candies that top the (almost) too pretty to eat cakes are changed regularly. Red Velvet in Nampo-dong is open every day from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. Individual cupcakes are 4,000 won and custom orders are available.

OTHER PLACES IN BUSAN TO GRAB A GOOD CUPCAKE Red Velvet in Jung-dong - The store has the same retro décor, mellow music and uses the same recipes. They have a nail polish station, allowing customers to give themselves manicures in the cafe. Open from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. every day except for Tuesdays. At Jung-dong station, exit 2, make an immediate left, and Red Velvet is just off to the right.

Penguin Cupcakes – Located in Millak IPark on the river walk between Millak and Gwangan. This hidden gem has been open for a year. Owner Choi Youn-hee uses organic flour and high-quality ingredients, something which definitely sets her cakes apart in texture and flavor. Cakes range from 4,0006,000 won.

Good Ovening - Located in the basement level of Lotte Nampo. These are my personal favorites, cupcakes so lush that the sugar rush is instant. They’re around 4,500 won for individual cakes, while a box of nine gets you a five-percent discount. They also have a catalogue of special occasion cupcakes.

Manoffin – Located on the basement level of Shinsegae, near the subway entrance. This little shop has something for everyone, from muffins to cupcakes to heavenly tortes. The chain’s only Busan location offers the best value, with prices ranging from 1,800-2,800 won for an individual cake. Packs of six, nine or 12 range from 11,000-21,000 won. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 39

Music Scene

JAKE

AND THE

WHO? BY EUGENE SMITH THEIR NAME WILL GIVE YOU PAUSE, BUT JAKE AND THE SLUT DROP THE SOUNDS THAT WILL MAKE ANYONE MOVE.

ake and the Slut have been having a good run these past few years. They’ve won the annual School of Basement Battle of the Bands twice in a row, rocked the UN memorial center, performed in multiple Korean cities and, perhaps, most importantly, got people to mosh to Stevie Wonder covers. Despite all of this, the obvious question still remains… Who is the slut? The source of the band’s name originated from a drunken scheme between Canadian frontman Jake McDonald and Irish guitarist Michael Park in early 2010. The proposal was composed of two segments; the first was to design the perfect razor to shave your private parts (which unfortunately didn’t follow through), and the second was to start a band. Quickly, the name debate arose. During this intoxicated discussion, the two founding members were enjoying burgers over eight inches thick that were falling all over the place, which they best described as being “slutty burgers”. This evolved into Jake and the Slutty Burger, which then was shortened to Jake and the Slut. The name has been modified to “Slot” or “Strut” during performances of formal backgrounds, such as weddings or children’s parties. Despite the band’s initial fear of “pissed off feminists giving us a hard time,” the name has, in fact, been praised for diffusing the word with its humorous nature. Although not all were satisfied with the moniker, McDonald’s fiancée Colleen Turlo, who used to occasionally sing backing vocals, has had plenty of people accidently directing the name at her, which is probably why she no longer sings for the band. The band that McDonald and Park originally started together is no longer recognisable today. What used to be an acoustic folk/country/soft rock duo has transformed into a fast heavy rock band, thanks to the additions of English drummer Duncan 40 HAPS_winter 2012/13

Morris and American bassist Neil Hamm. Despite the band’s metal sway, it still remains a cross-genre group with each member contributing their own musical influences, such as Neil Young, CCR, Frank Turner and Black Sabbath. They base their recent second victory in the Basement’s annual Battle of the Bands on their very loyal fan base. “There are two main crowds in Busan,” Park explained. “The PNU audience and the KSU audience. We felt more at home in Seomyeon, but after the venue Metal City closed down, we felt like orphans. So we are very lucky to have a fanbase spread all over Busan that were willing to support us at the Basement.” Duncan was impressed with other performances at the Basement, particularly with industrial newcomers Damagia. “They were fantastic, and totally blew me away,” he said. “All the bands at the finals deserved to win, as well as a bunch others who didn’t make it to the finals.” Despite the band’s deserved victory, some members have expressed slight guilt in utilizing a more “cover-heavy” set, rather than their usual 50-50 ratio of covers and originals. The band hoped to incorporate more originals and has plans to record some songs in the future. McDonald explained that “it in fact takes far longer to rehearse and practice a cover than it does with writing an original song. The whole process of deciding what cover to play itself takes ages. We would walk into a bar to decide what we want cover and two or three hours later, we would walk out with no idea.” The band’s solid foundation in Busan has given them the confidence to play in cities even farther out. With all this in mind, there’s no reason why they shouldn’t take the crown for the third time in next year’s Battle of the Bands. Recordings of Jake and the Slut’s performances can be found on their Facebook and Reverb Nation page: www.reverbnation.com/ jakeandtheslut

Nightlife & Music

VINYL’S KIM DONG-HA, LEFT, WITH MIKE EDMUNDS OF THE POSITIONS.

VINYL TURNS 10 BY EUGENE SMITH PHOTO BY MIKE DIXON

VINYL UNDERGROUND HAS SET THE LIVE MUSIC BAR STANDARD. AND WHILE OTHERS THAT IMITATED HAVE COME AND THEN GONE, VINYL STILL STANDS, 10 YEARS ON.

n 2002, Kim Dong-ha, called the Godfather of Busan expat bars, founded Vinyl Underground, his third venue in the city. Ten years on, it has transformed from a low-key bar into an extremely popular venue where bands from around the world have performed, from Canada’s Handsome Furs to PS I Love You, not to mention the whole assortment of Busan’s best. As Busan’s music scene continues to grow, one can’t help but attribute much of its rise to Kim and his drive to bring the best acts to not only Vinyl, but also his other three bars, Ol’55, Crossroads and Soultrane. Kim’s life before entering the bar business was centered around DJing, which expanded his music taste and resulted in his falling in love with Neil Young and Bob Dylan. After his travels in Canada, he thought that the best way to enjoy live music while working was to open a bar. And so it was, in 1997, that Kim opened up Crossroads, Busan’s first expat bar: a small acoustic-based joint near Busan National University that would emphasize live music. He followed up Crossroads with Soultrane in 1999, which was bigger and underground—a key factor that would allow loud rock bands to perform without worrying about neighbors

or police, though sometimes both showed up anyway. Wanting exposure beyond PNU, he founded Vinyl Underground near Kyungsung University, arguably laying the foundation for KSU to become the primal centre of Busan’s music scene. His fourth, Ol55, opened in 2003 and continued his trend of naming all his venues after classic rock bands and songs. Kim’s musical influence is clearly illustrated in the design of the bars, with The Beatles’ Yellow Submarine logo located at Ol’55’s staircase and Andy Warhol’s iconic banana residing on the stage at Vinyl. Kim has come a long way since 2002, and has concluded that he won’t open another venue in the future. He’d rather invest money in improving the musical equipment at his bars that already exist. As he explains, “I have a family now and my parents are getting old. I no longer have the energy and time that I used to have back then, but now the community has grown to the extent that I no longer need to be the control freak that I used to be. Busan’s Western community is very close which is what Seoul lacks. I’m proud to be part of this society, and hope that my venues have helped create it.” 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 41

Hotel Directory & News

HOTEL GUIDE AND NEWS

LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO STAY WHEN VISITING BUSAN? FIND IT WITH THE HAPS HOTEL DIRECTORY, YOUR LOCAL ENGLISH GUIDE TO ACCOMODATION IN THE CITY. HAEUNDAE

THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: www.novotelbusan.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. HOTEL ILLUA tel: 82-51-744-1331 web: www.hotelillua.com Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. BUSINESS AND BEACH HOTEL tel: 82-51-742-3219 web: www.bnbhotel.co.kr Located in central Haeundae, with easy access to the local historical sites.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here. 42 HAPS_winter 2012/13

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport. BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONG SHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach. After a busy day sightseeing or at the beach, kick back and relax, and make yourself comfortable with our free WiFi, breakfast and top-notch multilingual service.

Accomodation Guide

PARADISE HOTEL

1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr

Enjoy a romantic Christmas at the Paradise at the Cimer Ocean Spa with a three-piece ensemble jazz group, Christmas carols and wine with the Noel package over the holidays, which runs on the 23rd and 24th of December. Prices range from 255,00 to 390,000 won for a suite.

HOTEL NONGSHIM

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20 beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

San Miguel is the beer of choice at The Lounge on the first floor at the Hotel Nongshim, where you can receive a free 500cc glass of the Philippine classic beer with the purchase of four drafts. The cafe opens daily at 10 a.m. and serves wine, light snacks delicious baked goods and specialty teas from around the world.

NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR 1405-16 Jung-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-746-8481 web. www.novotelbusan.com

The Novotel has recently added the Terrace Cafe, located in the lobby of the first floor, where you can enjoy a light snack, dessert or salad while enjoying a great view of the sea. You can also access the free Wi-fi Internet service which is available around the hotel for guests.

LOTTE HOTEL

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web. www.lottehotelbusan.com

Dine on some delicious food and drink at Momo Yama, the hotel’s Japanese restaurant on the 43rd floor which offers a spectacular view of the city. Top your evening off with the buy-oneget-one-free Ginnama Sake promotion for 30,000 won running until December 31.

SEACLOUD HOTEL 287 Haeundaehaebyun-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-933-1000 web. www.seacloudhotel.com

The Seacloud has a plethora of room promotions during the holidays, and you can enjoy a Cupid’s Christmas with your loved one which includes a superior room, a hamper basket package and dinner for two at the hotel’s buffet starting at 270,000 won.

WESTIN CHOSUN

67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-749-7000 web. www.echosunhotel.com

Go all out with an all-out executive package with the Swiss Perfection Spa until December 29 at the Westin Chosun. Pamper yourself with the full body, facial and foot spa care, sauna privileges and an executive room starting at 680,000 won per night. 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 43

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the first year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GINZA [Japanese] tel: 051-751-7077 Pricey, but good quality food. GUESS WHO RESTAURANT [International] tel: 051-757-1213 Always busy with a nice patio deck. 44 HAPS_winter 2012/13

PARIS CAFE [International] Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. PASTA E VINO [Italian] tel: 051-746-2500 Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar Sharky’s brought “California cool” to Gwangalli this summer, as the newest Sharky’s opened to great reviews and a killer view of the bridge. Indulge in their ever-expanding menu while enjoying a cocktail in a cool, comfortable environment. Great deals on dinner specials nightly, and they have the best shuffleboard table in town. SHIM HAE RAW FISH MARKET [Korean] tel: 051-753-6868 Everything seafood, all in one place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganlli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the

menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. HQ JANGSAN [American Sports Bar] Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum. MARIS [Buffet] tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MIAMI 88 [Lounge Bar] On the beach. Patio and good service. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868

Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. ROCK N’ ROLL HOUSE [Casual Lounge] Great atmosphere. Two pool tables, great view. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of the Haeundae Beach crowd renowned for its spectacular food and service. International comfort food is masterfully prepared by their chefs in a comfortable and unpretentious atmosphere. Located just a stone’s throw away from the beach on the second floor of the Pale de CZ. STARFACE [International Pub] tel: 051-742-0600 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ starface SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin. Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous international cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for

Dining & Food outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution.t VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.

CLUB FABRIC [Rock/Event] Live music, warm cozy decor. DUGOUT [Sports Bar] Home of Lotte Giants games. EVAS [International/Lounge] Been around awhile, and still packs them in.

KYUNGSUNG ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff, live music. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. With an impressive menu and a booming sound system, ladies can also drink half price from 7 - 9 p.m. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. CALIFORNIA BURRITO [Mexican] open: Mon-Thu 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 12pm-9pm tel: 051-612-2828 The newest addition to the Mexican food landscape, the large, spacious homestyle restaurant is easily the largest in the city offering Mexican staples, including their signature burrito. The relaxed atmosphere, extensive food and drinks menu, and reasonable prices have made it a must stop on a visit to Kyungsung

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7 - 12am, Fri 7 - 1am Sat 2 - 2am, Sun 2 - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked We are Busan’s first boutique bar run by expats. We serve great beer and wine at reasonable prices. We also serve 3 kinds of fresh panini: Caprese, Chicken Pesto, and AppleSausage. Furthermore, we provide a non-smoking environment for you to peruse our used-books or enjoy one of our many board games. GRAZIOSO [Italian] Dirt cheap Italian located in the Spark Building. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] tel. 010-2857-2367 Where the real mean go to drink and BS. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. LONG. T BAR [Lounge Bar] Large bar with cheap Long Island’s. Pool table and darts. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot.

Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] open: 7pm - late tel: 051-627-5645 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. The atmosphere is cool, there is free pool and a pay dart machine, and Sunday nights host an expat trivia. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] open: Weekends 8pm - late www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area. With over ten years of showcasing live music and DJ dance club weekends, owner Kim Dong-ha has established the “Yellow Banana Bar” as one of the longest must visit watering holes around the area.

PNU

Good Chinese at affordable prices. O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: www.busanhaps.com/otaco

CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. The subtly-lit second floor venue has a Happy Hour on offer every day from 7pm to 8pm on gin,

vodka and rum mixes, and a Ladies Night Friday, for singles to meet other singles. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. GANESH [Indian] Small spot with good Indian fare on the menu. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PACO TACO [Mexican] open: 7pm - late, Closed Mondays The newest Mexican restaurant to hit the city, Paco Taco resides in Kebabistan’s old digs in the heart of PNU. Nightly specials add to the fun in Busan’s first tequila pub which serves up mojitos, green iguanas, margaritas, tacos, burritos, and tostadas amongst others. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. Happy Hours greet every evening from 8pm to 10pm, and it’s the bar of choice for local comedians every first Friday of the Month for the Ha Ha Hole. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti.

2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 45

Services Directory NIGHTLIFE & DINING DIRECTORY CONTINUED CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FLORIAN’S [Italian] Buffet with a wide selection of dishes. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FRESH FRIES FACTORY [International] Some good fish n’ chips and other tasty foods. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. JUDIE NINE BRAU [Brew Pub] Good place for home-brewed beer. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr METAL CITY [Rock/Live Music] Pool, darts and live music. ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. 46 HAPS_winter 2012/13

THE SPOT [Lounge/Bottle Service] Bottle service, recently under renovations. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] Open: Early for lunch, late for dinner tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country. While the exquisite food is served in an elegant surrounding, this eatery is tucked away in the back streets of Seomyeon, though its reputation for quality ingredients, reasonable prices and attentive service are far from a secret.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service.

SERVICES DIRECTORY AIRLINES AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com

LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES web: www.klm.com

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. EUCCK Paradise Hotel (Main Bldg.), 1408-5 Jungdong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-744-6711 web: www.eucck.org The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUSAN 798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

TESOL TRAINING

KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter The Busan-Gyeongnam Chapter of KOTESOL is dedicated to promoting the development of teachers and teacher-trainers, both Koreans and foreigners, in the Gyeongnam province. Details for meetings can be acquired by contacting us either by email or via Facebook. We look forward to seeing you at our next meeting! TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr

INFORMATION EXPAT ASSISTANCE CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432

INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL)

tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608

MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu tel: 051-600-4741

HERBAL CLINICS

DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE

1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr

NAM-GU BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr

BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101 web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong MUSEUMS tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan PAIK HOSPITAL tel: 051-740-2602 1435, Jwa-dong web: www.art.busan.go.kr tel: 051-890-6114 Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday HAEUNDAE Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan

tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111 web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free

RELIGIOUS SERVICES AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HONGBEOPSA TEMPLE Dugu-dong, #1220-1, Guemjeong-gu tel: 010-8771-6265 HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.iccbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. ICC is a close-knit community church that is committed to sharing the incredible good news of grace and forgiveness through Jesus Christ. ICC is developing a community of Christ-followers from all nations. Visit any Sunday at 10:30 am or contact us for more info! www. iccbusan.org 010-8326-1985 NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Gwangalli Beach My Ku Restaurant Weekday Contact: (051) 932-6832 web: www.newphilly.cc Services: Sundays, 2:30 pm ONNURI ENGLISH SERVICE Jangsan, Haeundae-gu tel: 010-7570-9171 Services: Sundays, 10 a.m..

SHOPPING DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500 SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 47

Services Directory

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS

BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BEACH VOLLEYBALL Facebook Group: Busan Beach Volleyball BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans BUSAN SCUBA

Facebook Group: Busan Scuba BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner tel: 010-8344-1410 email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members SALSA DANCING web: www.busansalsa.blogspot.com SOCRATES CAFE Facebook Group: Busan Socrates Cafe ULTIMATE FRISBEE Facebook Group: BusanUltimate

GROCERIES COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr

INTERNET GROCERIES EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com FATBAG web: www.fatbag.co.kr IHERB web: www.iherb.com INDIAN SHOP web: www.indianshopkorea.com NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net

FAST FOOD

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT BUSANHAPS.COM

MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr

POPEYE’S CHICKEN No delivery web: www.popeyes.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr DUNKIN DONUTS No delivery web: www.dunkindonuts.co.kr MISTER DONUT No delivery web: misterdonut.gsretail.com BASKIN ROBBINS No delivery web: www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

PIZZA DOMINOS tel: 1577-3082 web: www.dominos.co.kr PAPA JOHN’S tel: 1577-8080 web: www.pji.co.kr PIZZA HUT tel: 1588-5588 web: www.pizzahut.co.kr MR. PIZZA tel: 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr

Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

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Seomyeon Stn.

THE

MAGAZINE FOR WHAT’S HAPPENING IN BUSAN.

FOR ADVERTISING CONTACT BUSANHAPS@GMAIL.COM

ARMY BASES FIND A COPY OF HAPS AT ANY USChinhae Naval Base, Camp Walker (Daegu) Camp Carroll (Daegu), Pier 8 (Busan) OF THESE GREAT LOCATIONS! Seaman’s Club (Busan) GWANGALLI Fuzzy Navel Thursday Party Burger n’ Pasta Tom & Toms Angels n’ Us Good Gangan Hospital Beached Sharky’s Kai Surf

PNU The Basement Thirsty Moose The Crossroads Soultrane Paco Taco Red Bottle Angels n’ Us PNU Charlie Brown

HAPS

MAGAZINE

KYUNGSUNG Ol’55 Thursday Party HQ Eva’s Kino Eye Burger & Pasta Blue Monkey Dugout Almost Famous Fully Booked O’Taco California Burrito Kyungsung University

SEOMYEON Lotte Hotel 7 Luck Casino English Global Village Rock n’ Roll Bar Thursday Party Fuzzy Navel Metal City Vito T.G.I. Friday’s Kang’s Dental Clinic St. Louis Orthodontics Pagoda Jungchul Academy

HAEUNDAE TOURIST CENTERS Sharky’s Bar Busan Train Station Thursday Party Gimhae Airport Billie Jean Ferry Station Fuzzy Navel Haeundae Beach Rock n’ Roll House BEXCO Novotel Jungang Dong Paradise Hotel/Casino Gwangalli Beach Wolfhound Song Jeong Beach T.G.I. Friday’s Busan Global Center Seacloud Hotel UN Cemetery Hi Korea Hostel Busan Foreign Service Center Tap and Tapas Itaewon (Seoul) HQ Jangsan Myeong-dong (Seoul) 2012/13 winter_ busanhaps.com 49

Ristorante, Hotel Nongshim

Advertorial

RISTORANTE, HOTEL NONGSHIM Ristorante, the new Italian Restaurant in Hotel Nongshim, held its grand opening “Laurent Perrier Dinner” on December 7, 2012. Chef Maurizio Ceccato’s authentic Italian cuisine meets world class interior design at Ristorante, where international interior design company HBA’s design features Italian-inspired chandeliers that cover the entire ceiling. Italian Chef Ceccato will be providing the finest cuts of steak and delicacies from the northern Italian-styled antipasto bar, accompanied by fresh oysters and one of the top five champagnes in the world, Laurent Perrier.

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With an extensive menu which includes Mediterraneanstyle fare, brick oven pizza, handmade pasta and US prime steak, Ristorante is one of nine dining and bar establishments on premise that make all of your dining experiences at the Hotel Nongshim memorable.

Location: First Floor, Main hotel building. Hours of Operation: Breakfast: 06:30 ~ 10:00 (Weekdays & Saturdays) / 06:30~ 10:30 (Sundays & public holidays) Lunch: 12:00 ~ 15:00 Dinner: 18:00 ~ 22:00 For reservations call 051.550.2301~2

California Burrito

CALIFORNIA BURRITO Meeting Steve and Irene Jung, the husband and wife owners of California Burrito in Kyungsung, you immediately feel at ease. Despite having just opened a new restaurant they are relaxed, warm and welcoming. Perhaps it is because this isn’t new for them. Steve previously opened two restaurants, one Italian and one Japanese, while living in Virginia. A year ago, the two came to Korea to wed. While here they noticed a lack of good Mexican restaurants. Irene says that when Steve suggested they come back and open one, she thought he was joking. A year later, on Sept 28th, they opened shop. His history as a restaurant owner in The States shows itself immediately in something that America is known for, customer service. The greetings by the staff, in excellent English, are cheerful, almost neighborly. Irene says that one of their goals is to have their staff speak at least basic restaurant English and

Advertorial follow American service standards. Walking into California Burrito, the first thing you’ll notice is the room’s spacious, airy design. As you approach the counter along the back wall you will be greeted by one, or all, of the staff while they ready themselves to take your order. The set up of the restaurant is logical and efficient, the menu simple and easy to navigate. And all meals, which are priced according to style and filling, are under 10,000W. Your first order of business is to choose your style and protein. The menu contains the usual suspects, tacos (hard or soft shell), burritos and quesadillas, as well as a burrito bowl (all the burrito fillings without the tortilla) or a taco salad which adds guacamole. You choose from the perfectly seasoned carnitas, chicken or beef or opt for black beans as a vegetarian option. Then, the staff will build your meal right in front of you by adding the fillings you indicate. Black beans, delicious lime rice, fajita-style onions and peppers, sour cream and cheese are all options that you can choose to enhance your meal. You can also add their freshly made salsas and guacamole to the mix. Their tangy salsa verde is a standout among the accoutrements. Once your food has been made and you reach the cash register, you can choose from their selection of beer or self-serve soft drinks, as well as side dishes, such as a bowl of chili, guacamole and chips or maybe some chili nachos. The southwestern ambiance of California Burrito Mexican Grill provides a relaxed atmosphere to enjoy what is, for sure, one of the best new food options to grace the K-Dae food landscape. Coming from the Kyungsung subway station exit 6, make your first right. California Burrito will be on your left, in the same building as Kino-Eye.

PHOTO FEATURE BY PETER DEMARCO

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02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/ LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 05 Eva’s 06 Dugout 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak 05 California Burrito CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 04 Angel-In-Us

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05 Beached 06 Sharky’s Business RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta Club 02 Bella Citta Bar/Pub/Lounge 03 Blue Saigon CAFES Restaurant 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place Cafe 03 Starbucks HAEUNDAE BUSINESS 01 Kai Surf Shop CLUBS 01 Murphii PNU 02 Elune BARS/PUBS/ 03 Maktum LOUNGES BARS/PUBS/ 01 Thirsty Moose LOUNGES Wa Bar 01 Thursday Party 02 03 Basement 02 Miami 88 04 Crossroads 03 Wolfhound 04 Soultrane 04 Rock n’ Roll 05 Red Bottle 05 Fuzzy Navel 06 Interplay 06 U2 07 Moo Monk 07 Miami 88 II 08 Bling 08 Sector 510 RESTAURANTS 09 Gecko’s 10 Sharky’s 01 Won Chon 11 Billie Jean 02 The Box 12 Tap and Tapas 03 Tajmahal RESTAURANTS CAFES 01 TGI Friday’s 01 Angel-In-Us 01 Mad For Garlic 02 Charlie Brown 01 Ganga 03 Twosome Place 02 Hello Thai 04 Starbucks 03 Namaste 05 Coffee Bean & 04 Loving Hut Tea Leaf CAFES SEOMYEON 01 Coffine Gurunaru CLUBS 02 Angel-In-Us 01 Fix 03 Angel-In-Us 02 Foxy 04 Starbucks BARS/PUBS/ 05 Caffe Bene LOUNGES GWANGAN 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot BARS/PUBS/ 03 Thursday Party LOUNGES 04 Fuzzy Navel 01 Paris 05 Metal City 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party RESTAURANTS 04 Fuzzy Navel 01 Vito

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The Last Word

THARP ON: MARRIAGE BY CHRIS THARP ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ROY

t’s done. After 41 years of debauchery, debasement and the Kimchee Tattoo”. In fact, when I first met her, I thought that delirious distraction, I finally closed my eyes, took that she had to be Japanese. She was simply too outré to be Koredeep breath and leapt from the cliff into the surging an. After all, she loved the films of Jim Jarmusch and Tarantino, ocean of respectability. along with the music of John Coltrane, Judas Priest and Sonic That’s right: I got married. Youth. How was such a thing possible in Korea, the land of SuLet me pinch myself and set the record straight: I, a schluffy, per Junior and BOA? overripe loudmouth, managed to get hitched to a fantastically All of my suspicions were shattered after one of our early gorgeous Korean girl. I’m punching well above my weight with dates, however. I took her to the Busan Aquarium, where we a woman who possesses less than half of spent two hours walking hand-in-hand, mine. I’m salivating at the chance to take taking in mysterious and beautiful sea I HAVE JOINED THE to her to America for a visit next sumcreatures from all around the world. Durmer, where I’ll watch with glee as all the RANKS OF PAUNCHY, MID- ing those two hours, only one word came handsome young guys glare with envy, DLE-AGED DUDES WHO, out of her mouth: Mashikaeta! Mashikaeta! shake their chiseled-jawed heads, and (“Delicious!” “Delicious!”) EVEN IF NORTH KOREA mouth, “How?” That’s correct: she wanted to eat the But until then I’ll plug away in Korea, TURNS THE SOUTH INTO aquarium. I knew, right then and there, where I am officially a card-carrying lifshe had to be Korean. A “SEA OF FIRE” TOMOR- that er. I have joined the ranks of paunchy, Most Korean nuptials are performed in ROW, WILL NEVER, EVER one of many omnipresent wedding halls, middle-aged dudes who, even if North Korea turns the South into a “sea of fire” LEAVE THE PENINSULA. which are the one-stop-shopping of the tomorrow, will never, ever leave the mighty matrimonial industry. If you’ve peninsula. I can now look forward to spending the one night a never been to a Korean wedding hall ceremony, you’re missing month I’m allowed out at a certain expat sports bar with a gag- out. There are lights, lasers, smoke machines, sound systems gle of other married guys. We’ll eat piles of fried-fat guy food, and dancers. It’s a heady, psychedelic experience, like seeing guzzle Hite and animatedly discuss fantasy football, changes in Pink Floyd in ’78. And these places are all about business. Not Korean visa law, and what brands of fabric softener deliver the a second is wasted. Where, say, a wedding in India takes place freshest scents. over three explosive, celebratory days, the Korean equivalent Yes. I have arrived. is a 30-minute affair, with the guests herded into the attached I adore my wife. She’s brilliant and hip, with killer style, a punk- buffet after the last photo is snapped, where they slop up grub rock haircut and wicked body ink: I like to call her “The Girl with from the communal troughs and then hit the road. 54 HAPS_winter 2012/13

In and out! Bali bali, baby! My favorite thing about Korean weddings is they don’t mess about with bulky gifts or onerous department store registries. It’s all about the bills—real cash money! Guests are expected to hand over white envelopes stuffed with notes, the amounts of which are meticulously recorded by the receiving family. And here’s the best part: you get it all back when your time comes. My mother-in-law has been shelling out envelopes at weddings for some 40 years now. Our wedding was her chance to finally get repaid, and you can rest assured that she called on every friend and family member and friend’s friend whose wedding she had attended over the decades. The result? An army of ajummas turned up, armed with big fat envelopes. The white envelope is like the proverbial Christmas fruitcake back home. No one really eats it; it just gets passed around in an attempt to make everyone happy. And for you all ESL cheapos out there: yes, it is possible to slip by without paying. No one is going to bar entry for not coughing up, but don’t think for a second you’ll go unnoticed once everything’s tallied up. A few folks skated at our wedding, and I’m looking forward to handing them all envelopes full of dirt on their big days. Though the trappings were traditional, our wedding was pretty bohemian, which saved us a lot of cash and gave us even more satisfaction. Ours was the very opposite of an actually traditional Korean wedding, which involves a lot of painful-looking bowing, the employment of wooden ducks and the wearing of colorful hanboks. I swore long ago that I would never get married in a hanbok, since they make most any Westerner look like a ridiculous fat clown, which is pretty much how we’re viewed here anyway. People now often ask me: “How does married life feel?” Well… I haven’t really felt married until recently. It was almost 10 o’clock on a Saturday night, and while my single friends were out downing Jager bombs and taking off their pants in bars around town, I was with my wife, at Costco. I ran into an old acquaintance, who is also married. His exhausted-looking wife corralled two boisterous, dirty-faced little kids. A glimpse into the crystal ball? We made some small talk and briefly reminisced about the old days, until something in my cart caught his eye. “Hey man,” he pointed. “Is that Sunrise fabric softener?” “Uh… Yeah, it is.” “You should really go with Downey, especially the lilies and lilacs scent. It really gives your clothes that spring fresh smell.” I was overwhelmed with the urge to kill—him, myself, anyone—but this feeling quickly subsided when I took in the sight of my lovely wife. One look at her and I knew it would be alright, and that it was all worth it.

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