Busan Haps Issue 24 by Haps Magazine

CONTENTS FEATURES

Korea’s Growing Single Culture | 22 Korea’s Medical Past | 20 Fine Dining in Busan | 26

REGULARS

SPORT

Back to Work | 34

TRAVEL

Bangladesh: Here’s Watching You, Man | 36 Korea: 48 Hours in Seoul | 38

COMMUNITY

The Eden Center: An Oasis for Korea’s Gifted Misfits | 40 Expat Extracts | 41

FOOD

My Table is Yours | 42 The Dish: Potato, 포타토 | 43 Wine: Five for Spring | 44 More Fine Options | 45

MUSIC

The Rise of Jumi Lee | 46 CrossNote | 47

DIRECTORY/GUIDES Hotel News & Directory | 50 Directory | 50-57 Busan Metro Map | 56 Area Maps | 51-57 Chef Louis Kim at Hotel Nongshim’s Ristorante. Photography on this page by Ben Weller. 6

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FINE DINING

Looking for that extra something special for your next meal? Check out our picks for fine dining in the city.

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EDITORS LETTER

pring has sprung. There, I said it. I never really cared that much about spring until living in Korea, where the warm weather waits for the end of March to show us some love. And I hate the way it teases during winter’s final weeks, yanking our chains with the occasional, bitter-cold day, like a lover reminding you how much you require their affection. Who thought a season could be so smug? If Korea’s fabled four seasons were looked at as lovers, I would give winter the edge by a hair. It just lays it out there on the table for you: “Look, I suck, take me as I am.” I like that. Especially when our relationship is conducted at a long distance through Facebook from a beach in Southeast Asia. Concerning more practical matters, I am very happy with the 24th issue of the mag. There’s some great stuff on food, jazz, wine, sports, the solo life and travel; and, of course, it’s all wellpeppered with more than a few references to our spiteful lover spring having finally arrived. On the subject of lovers, of the several great articles submitted this issue, I was especially fascinated by columnist James Turnbull’s piece on the increase in single households in the ROK. The aspect that stuck out for me most were findings by the Samsung Economic Research Institute (yeah, they do that, too), that Korea has one of the world’s highest growth rates for single households. The study anticipates that nearly one in three apartments will have a single person dwelling within by 2020. Perhaps most interesting is the effect it will have on DVD rooms and love motels, whose motherly-born necessity for private interludes is quickly waning as single Koreans increasingly have a place of their own. Who knows what that will do to the low birthrate? Have a fruitful spring.

ON THE COVER One of the delectable dishes on offer at Paradise Hotel’s Collavini’s Italian Restaurant. Photography by Ben Weller.

46 JUMI LEE

THE RISE OF

Haps talks to jazz vocalist Jumi Lee about her music as well as the increasing popularity of jazz on the peninsula. Jumi Lee at Nekubaru Hall, Kyushu, Japan. Photography on this page by Kang Duk-ho 8

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H Regulars

CONTRIBUTORS ANTHONY VELASQUEZ

Anthony claims Steve Perry, lead singer of the band Journey, is the second most famous person ever to come out of Hanford, California. Who’s the first? This guy. “Don’t Stop Believin’.” Along with a cafe review, Anthony has some great wine picks for spring this issue.

CHRISTY SWAIN

A fashion-loving girl, this Kiwi would like to divide her time between Paris and Milan, but for now she’ll settle for Busan, browsing the vintage stores of Seomyeon or the High St. of Nampo-dong.

SAM HAZELTON

Sam Hazelton grew up in Boise, Idaho. When he’s not scrapbooking at the nearest gelato eatery, he’s pumping iron with a cadre of militant lesbians. He lives in Busan and is a total jive turkey.

BEN WELLER

Originally from the States, Ben Weller has lived in Busan for the better part of a decade, and the city continues to inspire his work. You can see more of his excellent photography on his website at www.wellerpix.com

DR. SANGHYO RYU

Dr. Ryu works at Good Gang-an Hospital in Busan as a board certified neurologist. He is also licensed in the US, where he lived in Oklahoma. Before returning to Busan he was a regular guest on GFN radio in Gwangju.

HAL SWINDALL

Hal is a California native who has been a vagabond professor around the orient since the ‘90s. He is interested in many aspects of Asian society and culture, and currently works at Busan National University.

MICHAEL ROY

Michael Roy is an American artist who never sleeps and rarely cleans his fingernails. He is currently working out of Seoul, South Korea.

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PUBLISHER Ju Shin-hye EDITOR IN CHIEF Bobby McGill MARKETING DIRECTOR Michael Schneider MANAGING EDITOR Jeff Liebsch ASSOCIATE EDITOR Michael Fraiman

ART DIRECTOR Russell McConnell WEBMASTER Danny Himes

CULTURE EDITOR Jen Sotham FASHION EDITOR Christy Swain MUSIC EDITOR Eugene Smith WRITERS: Anthony Velasquez Chris Backe Jen Sotham Chris Tharp James Turnbull Eugene Smith So Yeon Kim Eugene Oh Sanghyo Ryu Harold Swindall Michael Fraiman Christy Swain Jeff Liebsch Bobby McGill

DESIGNERS: Kelvin Brassbridge II PHOTOGRAPHERS: Ben Weller Bobby McGill Karen Ng Will Jackson Lee Jeong-hwa Nichole Post Kang Duk-ho ILLUSTRATORS: Michael Roy ACCOUNTS SERVICES Marie Sung INTERN Shin Kyung-bin

SUBMISSIONS busanhaps@gmail.com

BUSINESS REGISTRATION NUMBER: 00001

ADVERTISING busanhaps@gmail.com

FIRST PUBLICATION DATE: Sept, 2, 2009 OFFICE ADDRESS: 1491-8 Miruville #501 Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu Busan, Republic of Korea 612-822 www.busanhaps.com

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H Regulars

Events & Culture

BUSAN INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL MAY 31-JUNE 4 Heading into its ninth year, the Busan International Dance Festival offers an eclectic mix of dance by showcasing classical ballet, modern dance, samulnori (traditional Korean dance) and B-boying, to name a few. The five-day festival, which takes place around Haeundae Beach, combines the beauty of body movements and the ocean with over 200 teams participating in the hopes of uniting cultures through the language of dance. eng.bidf.kr

BUSAN INTERNATIONAL GLOBAL SHORT FILM FESTIVAL GATHERING MAY 8-13 Started in the 1980s, the Busan International Short Film Festival has transformed into a major film festival which actively discovers and introduces outstanding short films directed from around the world. This year, the festival takes over the Busan Cinema Center for six days of short films vying for over $25,000 in prizes. For more info, check out their official site at www.bisff.org.

MAY 25 Global Gathering is the city’s largest yearly expat gathering, with over 70 countries and hundreds of local groups and businesses taking part. Shifting from October to May this year, Naru Park in Haeundae will host over 50,000 people to enjoy performances, the Global Culture Zone, stage and experience zones, as well as authentic cuisine from some participating countries. www.globalgathering.or.kr

THE

BIG

FIVE BIPAF CELEBRATES ITS 10TH YEAR

MAY 3-12 The Busan International Performing Arts Festival celebrates a decade of great theater with performance teams from Austria, France, Japan, Taiwan, Spain, England and Korea. Categories include 10-minute plays and a street showcase being planned at various theaters and locations around the city. You can check out checkout bipaf.org for more info about tickets and show times.

VAGINA MONOLOGUES

APRIL 26-27 Every February through April, women around the world proudly identify their anatomy in a call for women’s rights by staging performances of Eve Ensler’s The Vagina Monologues. Now in its fourth year, Busan women will once again present a production of the powerful, emotive, and humorous show, which will take place April 26 and 27 at the Vinyl Underground near Kyungsung.

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??? THE

MAGAZINE FOR WHAT’S HAPPENING IN BUSAN.

For advertising information, contact mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com

ARMY BASES FIND A COPY OF HAPS AT ANY USChinhae Naval Base, Camp Walker (Daegu) Camp Carroll (Daegu), Pier 8 (Busan) OF THESE GREAT LOCATIONS! Seaman’s Club (Busan) GWANGALLI Fuzzy Navel Thursday Party Burger n’ Pasta Tom & Toms Angels n’ Us Good Gangan Hospital Beached Sharky’s Kai Surf

PNU The Basement Thirsty Moose The Crossroads Soultrane Paco Taco Red Bottle Angels n’ Us PNU Charlie Brown

HAPS

MAGAZINE

KYUNGSUNG Ol’55 Thursday Party HQ Eva’s Kino Eye Burger & Pasta Blue Monkey Dugout Almost Famous Fully Booked O’Taco California Burrito Kyungsung University

SEOMYEON Lotte Hotel 7 Luck Casino English Global Village Rock n’ Roll Bar Thursday Party Fuzzy Navel Metal City Vito T.G.I. Friday’s Kang’s Dental Clinic St. Louis Orthodontics Pagoda Jungchul Academy

HAEUNDAE TOURIST CENTERS Sharky’s Bar Busan Train Station Thursday Party Gimhae Airport Billie Jean Ferry Station Fuzzy Navel Haeundae Beach Rock n’ Roll House BEXCO Novotel Jungang Dong Paradise Hotel/Casino Gwangalli Beach Wolfhound Song Jeong Beach T.G.I. Friday’s Busan Global Center Seacloud Hotel UN Cemetery Hi Korea Hostel Busan Foreign Service Center Tap and Tapas Itaewon (Seoul) HQ Jangsan Myeong-dong (Seoul) 13 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com

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WORD ON THE STREET

FESTIVAL SEASON IS ONCE AGAIN UPON US

KOREA’S TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS ARE USUALLY BASED UPON AGRICULTURAL RITUALS, MYTHS AND ALWAYS HAVE LOCAL DELICACIES TO SAVOR.

FIVE FESTIVALS WORTH CHECKING OUT BOSEONG GREEN TEA FESTIVAL

May 14 - May 19 The birthplace of the commercial tea industry, the area is the largest producer of tea in the country. Experience hands-on programs such as picking tea leaves, making tea and sampling green tea snacks. A number of celebratory performances are also scheduled. dahyang.boseong.go.kr

CHEONGDO BULLFIGHTING FESTIVAL

April 17 - April 21 Home of the largest bullfighting festival in the country, the tradition spans 1000 years, highlighted by the over 100 bulls competing against each other in the ring. The United States rodeo team and a genius rodeo featuring members of the US Armed Forces also make appearances. www.xn--hq1bj5xh5aw0hv6i.kr

GIJANG ANCHOVY FESTIVAL

April 18 - April 21 The Gijang Anchovy Festival is held in Daebyeon Port, a fishing village famous for their unique recipes for raw anchovies. The harbor is known as the largest anchovy fishing ground on the east coast of the country. english.gijang.go.kr

HAEUNDAE SAND FESTIVAL

May 31 - June 3 One of the more frequented festivals by expats in the city is the Haeundae Sand Festival. The festival, inspired by the beach’s clean sands, features fireworks, sand sculptures, concerts, beach sports and hot sand baths, known to cultivate health and beauty.

BUDDHA’S BIRTHDAY BEOMOSA TEMPLE

May 17 Set serenely at the base of Geumjeong Mountain, Beomo Temple is adorned with colored lotus lanterns in one of Busan’s more beautiful traditional events. The day is usually celebrated with a free breakfast/ lunch of sanchae (mountain vegetable), bibimbap and tea.

JYJ TO PROMOTE INCHEON ASIAN GAMES

Hallyu superband JYJ was selected to be the face of upcoming Incheon Asian Games, which is set to take place in 2014. The trio of Kim Jae-joong, Kim Jun-su and Park Yu-chun, formerly of the K-pop group TVXQ, made their debut in April 2010 and have rose to stardom around Asia as well as South America. They’ve also previously worked with UNAIDS in Asia as its regional goodwill ambassadors and promoted nuclear safety and awareness for the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit according to Allkpop.com. “Through JYJ’s international following, we hope to make the Games known to some four billion Asians living in the continent,” said the organizing committee’s president Kim Young-soo. The 17th version of the second largest multi-sport event in the world takes place for the third time in the country, after Seoul first held them in 1986, as well as Busan in 2002. 14 HAPS_spring 2013

Community & Living

JISAN VALLEY ROCK FESTIVAL CHANGES NAME, VENUE The Jisan Valley Rock Festival, one of Korea’s biggest rock festivals, which has taken place since 2009, will move its location this year and be rebranded as the “Ansan Valley Rock Festival”. The new home, Ansan Daebu Sea Aroma Theme Park in Ansan, is close to Incheon International Airport and double the size of

the previous location. This year’s event will take place from July 26-28, with only a few big names so far announced: Nine Inch Nails, The Cure, Foals, Coheed and Cambria and The xx. You can check out the latest information on the what’s happening at www.valleyrockfestival.com.

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H Regulars

IN THE NEWS

NK FILM POPULAR WITH U.S. FILM FESTS A North Korean produced film that debuted in the Unit-

ed States in February will be featured at two more film festivals in the America this year. The romantic comedy Comrade Kim Goes Flying is a joint production by North Korean, British and Belgian film companies and has been is being featured at both Hawaii and Wisconsin film events slated for April, according to Radio Free Asia. The movie is set and filmed entirely in Pyongyang, and portrays the life of a 28-year-old coal miner who overcomes hardships to fulfill her dream of becoming a trapeze artist. It was also shown at last year’s Busan International Film Festival. The film has generated much attention due to its portrayal of the “lighter” side of life in the isolated country that has been on the world’s radar screen for its oppressive government and continuing nuclear weapon development program. The movie was first shown at the Miami International Film Festival in early February and then again at the Center for Asian American Media festival held in San Francisco. This is the first time that a North Korean film has been featured so prominently in the United States. You can read a Haps exclusive interview with the directors here: busanhaps.com/article/comrade-kim-goes-flying

LOTTE TO OPEN 101-STORY HOTEL

The hotel scene is booming in Busan and, in step with the times, Lotte announced plans to open a new property in 2017 at Haeundae Beach. The company says the new hotel will be housed in a 101-story building, which will be built on a 66,000-square-meter lot. The site will also feature 84-story residential towers and seven-story buildings, which will hold residential and commercial properties as well as numerous shopping facilities. With the growing number of tourists descending on Korea’s second largest city, there has been increasing demand need of more hotel rooms and accommodations. To meet the new demand, luxury brands such as the Hyatt and Hilton hotels are flocking to open new properties at high-rise development sites near Haeundae Beach, the city’s most popular tourist destination. According to Lotte officials, the company signed a memorandum of understanding with the developer LCT PFV to complete the project. The new hotel, which is slated to have 290 guestrooms, will be Lotte’s seventh five-star property in Korea.

BUSAN POLICE CHIEF TAKES TOP NATIONAL POST

Busan police chief Lee Sung-han, has been nominated to take over Korea’s top police post, officers said in March. A seven-member National Police Commission held hearings on the nomination and recommended Lee as the single candidate for the post to President Park Geun-hye. Though Lee’s nomination is technically subject to a parliamentary confirmation hearing, current laws and procedures dictate that the national Assembly cannot reject the nomination. Lee, who graduate from Dongkuk University with a bachelor’s degree in police administration, joined the agency in 1983. On his nomination, Busan’s top cop told reporters that he feels a huge sense of responsibility for the post that handles such a difficult and important task. Throughout his career as a police officer, Lee has earned a reputation for his “expertise and strong insight” on various issues, especially in the field of foreign affairs. 16 HAPS_spring 2013

Korea & World News

JEJU ARCHITECTURAL BEAUTY DEMOLISHED

Against numerous international protests, the Casa del Agua was demolished in early March. The building, known as “The Gallery”, was designed by a world-renowned Mexican architect named Ricardo Legorreta (who died in 2011 at age 80), and was lauded by architectural critics in Bloomberg and the New York Times, who described it as a masterpiece of color and admired its ability to blend into Jeju’s signature natural landscape. But in November, 2011, a company named Booyoung Co. Ltd. purchased the land underneath The Gallery—not The Gallery itself—in order to complete a pre-existing hotel contract. The GI JOES BECOME BB KINGS business folk at Booyoung apparently decided that The GalThree American soldiers have recently admitted to purchasing lery blocked the sea view for future guests at the hotel, which and subsequently firing off a BB gun in Itaewon, Seoul just for is true enough, since Legorreta’s entire vision was to incorkicks. When the police arrived, they got scared, hit one Kore- porate the structure with nature along Jeju’s famous coast. an officer and proceed to drive off in what turned into a Hol- Booyoung began looking for ways to tear it down, and dislywood-esque 12-km high-speed car chase, complete with the covered that, because it was built less than 100 meters from American driver being shot in the shoulder and (as of publica- the coastline, it failed to meet Jeju’s environmental land laws. tion time) still lying in a hospital bed on painkillers. Mexico’s ambassador to Korea has had in hands full, and the That’s the story, anyway, that most news organizations have arts communities of Jeju and the world cried out, but it will been leading off with. The real details are foggier: none of the nevertheless soon become a hotel park. three accused can agree on which one of them was the leader; The barely happy ending is that the Jeju government has they insist they were shooting BBs at signposts, not people; and agreed to “relocate” the building elsewhere on Jeju Island they don’t remember hitting a police officer with their car at all. and designate it as a cultural landmark, with consultation So says Robert Koehler at The Marmot’s Hole: “Do we really from the upset communities. have to take these guys back after they complete their jail sentences here?”

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MATERIAL WORLD

KOREAN FURNITURE DESIGN MASTERY

HAPS TAKES A LOOK AT SOME OF KOREA’S TOP FURNITURE DESIGNERS, ALL OF WHOM HAVE RECEIVED GLOBAL ACCLAIM FOR THEIR UNIQUE CREATIONS.

KIHYUN KIM, SEOUL

While it may look like an ordinary chair, this design, known as the Zeitraum 1.3 Chair, took top honors at the 2012 Design Museum London Awards. Not bad for a guy who graduated from London’s Royal College of Art just a year earlier. The word zeitraum is German for “period of time,” while the “1.3” denotes the fact that the chair weighs in at an unbelievably low 1.3 kgs (2.8 lbs). Constructed of compressed balsa wood, then layered with a hardwood veneer to give it structural stability, it comes in even lighter than designer Gio Ponti’s famed 1957 chair design at 1.7 kgs. www.kihyunkimdesign.com

KAMKAM DESIGN, SEOUL

As their website states: “We are in the dark, made of millions of colors,” KAMKAM is the realized dream of Seoul designers Seo Hyun-jin and Kim Jae-kyoung who have seen their creations featured everywhere from Milan to London. Much of what they do is fabric-based (yes, even in tweed), stuff for kids’ rooms and highly-stylized, though questionably functional, woodwork and metal pieces. www. kam-kam.org

CHOI BYUNG-HOON, GANGWON-DO

One of Korea’s early innovators of modern design, in 1977 Choi founded the Society for the Creation of Decorative and Applied Arts, which profoundly affected the future of design in Korea. Through his travels in the ‘70s, Choi found inspiration from the Mayan, Incan, African and Indian cultures. His work, which often infuses natural stone shapes with finely worked wood, has been exhibited throughout Korea and the world. www.choibyunghoon.com 18 HAPS_spring 2013

DIN AND DIP DESIGN STUDIO, SEOUL

The designing pair of Jongho Park and Junbum Park have put their own spin on the role of traditional Korean furniture for a contemporary setting with their series desks, stools and varied furniture pieces. The featured piece here is based on design of traditional pieces such as gyi-byeok-gan and jang-seok, designed to “expresses elegant and simple beauty through the division of the furniture space.” Sounds good to us. And it simply looks great. www.dinndip.com

Gadgets & Gear

SAMWOONG LEE, SEOUL

Samwoong Lee is known for far-out designs that just scream for attention from anyone that sets foot in your home. The Octopus Series is no different, comprised of several pieces including the sofa pictured here, an accompanying ottoman and matching lamp, all constructed with lacquer and mother of pearl. Lovely though it is, it will discourage couchsurfers from overstaying their welcome. www.lee3woong.com

JOONHYUN KIM, TOKYO

An illuminating idea from Korean designer Joonhuyn Kim, the Flat Bulb is a flattened version of the traditional incandescent light bulb with one-third the volume. Not only is it much easier to package, it’s flat-out cool. (There, we said it.) In Kim’s own words: “When I think of light bulbs, I think of how hot they are, how they give me light at night, and how easy they are to break!” If you’re lucky, you might be able to get one at Yanko Design. If not, they are stock full of all kinds of cool stuff. www.yankodesign.com. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 19

H Regulars

STYLE FILES

KEEP CALM AND SWAG ON:

CL TURNS MODEL FOR MCQ

KOREAN FASHION’S INDEPENDENT BOOST

Independent fashion brands from small boutiques, online shops and Dongdaemun Fashion Town are now making their way into previously out-of-reach luxury department stores such as Lotte and Shinsegae. As the fashion market continues to stall, buyers are looking locally for a jumpstart; Lotte is planning to expand its number of in-store shops with 13 new independent brands across the country. Korean consumers are also becoming more discerning, which is consequently motivating large stores to adapt: “As consumers preferences become more diverse, there is more room for big retailers and independent brands to collaborate,” said Park Yeong-su, deputy general manager of the Korea Fashion Association.

K-pop fashionista CL (2NE1) will star in a 10-page London-themed spread in W Korea, modeling the stunning designs of Alexander McQueens’s label, McQ. The singer is the Korean endorsement model for the brand, which features uniquely tailored silhouettes, corsetry and McQueen’s trademark gravity-defying heels for spring/summer ’13. 2NE1 are well known for their love of avant-garde fashion, evidenced by their constantly evolving looks and frequent collaborations with quirky American designer Jeremy Scott.

I’LL HAVE THE NUMBER 6, THANKS

North Korea has its very own fashion police—and its reach extends to the realm of hair, according to recently released images. Eighteen officially approved hairstyles are deemed appropriate for women; however, the gents only have 10 options to choose from. Cropped bobs and wavy mullets are the standard for the ladies, yet once again the rules for men are stricter with a snip required every 15 days to ensure locks don’t grow longer than the sanctioned five centimeters. Contrary to the regulations, First Lady Ri Sol-ju has been seen sporting a more modern slicked-back do… perhaps a potential style for the number 19 spot?

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STYLE MEETS

SUSTAINABILITY AT H&M

This spring, our favorite high-street store proves that affordable fashion and a social conscience can go hand in hand. The “Conscious Collection” (fronted by French beauty Vanessa Paradis) presents organic cotton and recycled fabrics in crisp white, yellow and green, ‘70s-inspired jungle/ floral prints and feminine lace cutouts. H&M is proudly the number user of certified organic cotton in the world—for the second year in the row.

Style & Beauty

PRESIDENT PARK: FASHION ICON?

In recent years, women in power have been setting a higher standard of style, shaking off the power suits and shoulder pads of the past. Fashion experts love analyzing the clothing choices of female politicians and first ladies such as Michelle Obama, Carla Bruni and Hillary Clinton. Now Park Geun-hye is setting trends of her own with her modest choices. On March 13, while visiting a famersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market in southern Seoul, Park was garbed in a tailored yellow coat clutching a quilted lavender wallet fastened with a traditional string toggle. Sales for the accessory, which retails for around 4,000 won, have gone through the roof since the president was spotted with it.

OUTDOOR SPORTSWEAR MARKET EXPLODES IN KOREA

If you want to make money in clothing in this country, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the great outdoors. Koreans of all ages have been donning puffy jackets and hiking-themed couple-wear in record numbers for the past few years, both on and off the mountain. The market has grown 4.8 times since 2006, from 1.2 trillion won to 5.8 trillion won in 2012. The North Face has made history by becoming the first fashion brand to top 600 billion won in sales in a 12-month period. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 21

HSocial

ISSUE

KOREA’S GROWING

SINGLE CULTURE BY

JAMES TURNBULL

ACCORDING TO RECENT STUDIES, KOREA HAS ONE OF THE WORLD’S HIGHEST RATES OF GROWTH FOR SINGLE HOUSEHOLDS. JAMES TURNBULL LOOKS AT HOW THE COUNTRY IS ADAPTING TO A TREND THAT SHRUGS OFF CENTURIES OF HISTORY. “I know about high rents, low wages, no wages, exploitative landlords, travel costs, dangerous areas, debts, student or otherwise, and the housing ladder... But come on. For Britons, if you've always been healthy but you're still living with your folks in your late-20s, never mind mid-30s, something has gone wrong. And no amount of defensive yammering about high rents is going to change that.” (Barbara Ellen, The Guardian, June 3 2012)

“Good girls go to heaven, bad girls go everywhere.” (Helen Gurley Brown, Sex and the Single Girl, 1962)

las, I’m not a girl, either good or “bad”. But I did leave home at the tender age of 18. And the liberation, empowerment, and—yes—sexual freedom that came with that move played no small part in giving me the courage and spirit of adventure to get on a plane to Korea six years later. Once I’d arrived, though, and started befriending and dating Koreans, I kept running into the same conundrum: they would be no more or less intelligent, sophisticated, or worldly-wise as Westerners… but invariably they would still be living with their parents. Often, the women even had curfews, too. Frankly, this placed definite limits on how far our relationships could develop. Sometimes, this was for practical reasons, like one girlfriend having to catch a 9:30 bus home every night. (Anyone else resorted to quickly making out behind their hagwon?) More often, it was because it was ultimately impossible for me to respect them as adults. So it would be no coincidence that my wife lived in a “oneroom” with her sister when we started dating. Or that—before we all hit our 30s and/or got married, that is—all my Korean friends either a) had rare progressive parents that didn’t mind that their children openly cohabiting; b) kept their living arrangements a closely guarded secret from their more traditional ones; or c) at the very least, bitterly complained about being stuck at home due to their financial circumstances. Indeed, it’s those financial circumstances that meant perhaps I shouldn’t have rushed to judge, as the combination of high security deposits required under Korean rental systems, 22 HAPS_spring 2013

the low wages at part-time jobs, and the dearth of suitable single accommodation make living away from home very difficult for most. Moreover, these realities remain truer than ever in recent years, with many 20-somethings remaining in higher education because of the poor job market. In addition, it’s been a long time since I came to Korea in 2000, and now many adult children are actually given a great deal of freedom by their parents, who often remain in willful ignorance about what they do at night. Add that many mothers still tend to do all the domestic chores (daughters, however, are usually expected to help more around the home), and that they become well accustomed to living with their parents as an adult, then even if they do graduate with good jobs it’s debatable if moving out for a few years before marriage is really worth the hassle and—especially for women—the social stigma. But perhaps this focus on 20-somethings and lifestyle choice is misguided. Starting in the 1960s with miners and nurses sent to Germany and construction workers to the Middle East, then workers moving to Seoul for factory work in the 1970s, then husbands being transferred to other cities while their wives and children remained in their good school districts in Seoul; in fact Koreans are very used to their families being split up for the sake of work. So much so that, by 2008, one in eight had at least one immediate family member living away from the rest. What’s more, according to the Samsung Economic Research Institute, Korea has one of the world’s highest rates of growth

for single households, which now comprise one household in communities also need strong social security nets that free four. This is actually higher than in countries like the US and people to pursue their goals. Not only is this sorely lacking in Australia, and is expected to rise to nearly one in three house- Korea, but it’s important not to romanticize the singles trend holds by 2020. here, as the reality is that it is sharply polarized along sex and One positive of this trend is the new consumer market be- income. In short, whereas most singles in their 30s to 40s are ing made available. Partially, this is simply because ‘singles’ middle-class professional men, there are an equal number of tend to have less children and therefore more to spend. How- women in their 60s to 80s living in abject poverty. ever, it’s also true Often it’s only that they require ACCORDING TO THE SAMSUNG ECONOMIC RESEARCH churches that are smaller fridges and INSTITUTE, KOREA HAS ONE OF THE WORLD’S HIGHEST left to provide the washing machines, latter with basic RATES OF GROWTH FOR SINGLE HOUSEHOLDS, WHICH social smaller servings of welfare. food (e.g., bottle Add the sense of NOW COMPRISE ONE HOUSEHOLD IN FOUR. THIS IS sizes), and smaller that ACTUALLY HIGHER THAN IN COUNTRIES LIKE THE U.S. community furniture specially draws singles of designed for small AND AUSTRALIA, AND IS EXPECTED TO RISE TO NEARLY all ages, and inhomes. Companies come levels, as ONE IN THREE HOUSEHOLDS BY 2020. are responding. well as the netAlso, a host of ‘hire-a-hubby’ type-companies have spawned working opportunities available at them; suddenly Koreans’ to provide basic repair work and/or to buy groceries, in par- long history of being uprooted from their homes and families ticular for (supposedly) impractical female singles. provides an un(der)acknowledged reason for high church atAnother positive is that singles tend to concentrate in areas tendance in Korea. where suitable accommodation and jobs are available, often Likewise, however much Koreans like to think of themselves leading to thriving and creative communities. In Seoul, for in- as family-orientated, Korea’s singles trend is already having a stance, fully half of all the singles in the entire city live in the profound impact on economics and politics. Hopefully Korean narrow band around subway line 2, which is dense with cafes, policymakers and the public will not just dwell on the ensuing restaurants and retail spaces as a result. problems, but also come to see the positives and and the ecoHowever, as the Economist noted in August last year, such nomic opportunities as well. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 23

HInside

STORY

KOREA’S

MEDICAL PAST BY

SANGHYO RYU

THE KOREAN PENINSULA HAS LONG BEEN HOME TO ANCIENT MEDICAL PRACTICES WITH INFLUENTIAL TECHNIQUES THAT STRETCHED ACROSS NORTHEAST ASIA.

he history of Korean medicine and its early innovations can be traced back as far as 3000 B.C. to stone and bone needles unearthed in North Hamgyung Province, in what is now North Korea. In fact, the oldest known piece of Chinese medical literature, the Hwangtui Suowon, which dates to 50 B.C., makes reference to “stone needles originating from the East”—in this case, “East” referring to the varied kingdoms on the Korean peninsula. Considering that ancient Korean medical documents are pretty rare, we can only guess that compounds, comprised of things such as garlic and mugwort, might have been used for medicinal purposes. The legend of Korea’s mythical founder Tan-gun centers on a bear wishing to be a human, and how it was given mugwort and 20 cloves of garlic before eventually being transformed into a woman, who then conceived a child, who then began Korea’s bloodline. During the era known as Koguryo, the Three Kingdoms Period, which spanned nearly all of the first millenium, Korean medicine was largely influenced by Chinese medicine. Beginning in 414 A.D., and for roughly three centuries after, even the Japanese became heavily reliant on Koreans for their medical needs, including their physicians and drug experts. The cultural exchange between Korea and Japan during this period is well documented in Nihonshoki, Japan’s oldest book of history. However, records of medical books written by Koreans of that time have not yet been discovered. It was in 1596 when King Seon-jo of the Chosun Dynasty commanded his court physician, Heo-jun, to compile a book of Korean traditional medicine based on local herbs and remedies that could cater specifically to life on the peninsula. In 1610, after 13 24 HAPS_spring 2013

years of intensive work, the Dongui Bogam (동의보감) was published. It has since been reprinted 18 times in Korea, China and Japan and, since its initial publication, replaced practically all the previously existing books throughout the Orient as a textbook or a bedside reference book. After two devastating invasions at the turn of the 16th century, one by Japan (1592-1598) and the other by the Manchu in China (1636-1637), a group of scholars emerged called Silhakpa (silhak meaning “practical learning”). They had a vision for the world to come, and strived to develop new technology from both Korea and abroad to strengthen their kingdom. But the Japanese and the Manchus had left an indelible mark, and the sentiment of the time was that Korea would simply stop embracing knowledge from outside its borders. Thus, the voices of those Silhak scholars fell on to the deaf ears of quarrelling Confucian mandarins in the court, and Korea became what would known for centuries as the Hermit Kingdom. One cannot help but wonder, if the Silhak scholars had their way and had their cries been heard, if Korea would have been better off sooner in history, able to develop modern culture and technology earlier than we did. In the 19th century, when colonialism was was running rampant in the Far East, Korea had become easy prey for Japan and it’s newly born colonial ambitions. The Hermit Kingdom suddenly had no choice but to open its door to the outside world. From a positive perspective, worldly medical knowledge slowly seeped in across her shores. In 1885, for the first time in Korea, a Western medicine was introduced by Dr. Horace Allen, a protestant missionary who graduated from medical school in Miami, Ohio. Dr. Allen’s methods won over the Korean elite when he saved Min

THIRTEEN YEARS IN THE MAKING, DONGUI BOGAM (동의보감) WAS PUBLISHED IN 1610. AT THAT TIME IT REPLACED PREVIOUS MEDICAL TEXTS IN KOREA, CHINA AND JAPAN.

Yong-ik, a member of the pro-Chinese party, stabbed and criti- Medicine”. We have several great traditional medical hospitals cally wounded though the power struggle in Seoul with a pro- including Jaseng Hospital, which began in Korea and has since Japanese faction. opened a location in Los Angeles, and has become famous From that time the prestige of Western medicine soared. In since they successfully treated slipped disc via invasive surgery 1908, Daehan Hospital (the great Korean hospital and origin of on famous Korean athletes, such as figure skater Kim Yu-na and Seoul National University Hospital) was built by Emperor Ko- footballer Park Ji-sung. jong’s decree. While most of the country continued practicing One of my dearest friends, who is one of the few doctors that traditional Korean medicine, advances of Western medicine had have both Western medicine and traditional medicine certifigarnered a solid foothold. cates, told me that what we The end of the Korean War, saw, what we were taught in 1953, posed a new prob- IT WAS IN 1596 WHEN KING SEON-JO OF in college, is not always true lem for the new nation of THE CHOSUN DYNASTY COMMANDED when applied to real paSouth Korea: How do you tients. As a physician and start from scratch? On April neurologist myself for the HIS COURT PHYSICIAN, HEO-JUN, 27, 1965, the first traditional past decade, I couldn’t agree TO COMPILE A BOOK OF KOREAN Korean medical education more. And he also added institute in Korea was deare many diseases TRADITIONAL MEDICINE BASED ON there veloped by the union of that could be treated or at Kyung Hee University and controlled by so-called LOCAL HERBS AND REMEDIES THAT least Dongyang Medical College. “New Medicine”. Soon after, however, a third Now, in Korea, we have 11 COULD CATER SPECIFICALLY TO school, Dongwang Medical traditional medicine collegLIFE ON THE PENINSULA. School, was shut down after es and one graduate school. years of financial struggles. They are striving to bring Kyung Hee University took over the college and established global acceptance to traditional Korean medicine, to make it the Department of Traditional Korean Medicine. The college more commonplace across the world, through exchanges and succeeded in drug-free acupuncture anesthesia for the first joint research with overseas traditional medical schools in Chitime in the world in 1972, and launched a research project na, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Australia. Sooner or later, I hope to on applying the combination of both traditional Korean and see the New Korean Wave of medicine. Western medicine. Sanghyo Ryu is a neurologist at Good Gang-an Hospital in Busan. Now, new traditional Korean medicine is defined as “New Find them online at eng.gang-an.or.kr 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 25

HCover STORY

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LEFT: ADRIATIC SEAFOOD BRODETTO AT HOTEL NONGSHIM’S RISTORANTE

FINE DINING

IN BUSAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN

WELLER

THE TERM “FINE DINING” OFTEN CARRIES WITH IT CERTAIN IMAGERY. CRISP, WHITE LINEN TABLECLOTHS, WAITERS IN FRESHLY PRESSED TUXEDOS OR A DIZZYING ARRAY OF SILVERWARE OF WHICH YOU’RE OFTEN UNSURE WHAT TO USE FIRST. (HINT: START FROM THE OUTSIDE AND WORK YOUR WAY IN.) IN CELEBRATION OF THE ART OF FINE DINING, HAPS HAS PUT TOGETHER A FEW PICKS FOR WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY SOME OF THE BEST FOOD THE CITY HAS TO OFFER. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 27

COLLAVINI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT Paradise Hotel, Haeundae Beach Located on the second floor of the Paradise Hotel, just off the sands of Haeundae Beach, Collavini’s offers a great, unobstructed view of the water from full-length windows or its terrace. Its luxurious European-themed interior comfortably seats upwards of 100 patrons. Along with an excellent selection of Italian cuisine, executive chef Paolo Collavini has put together a fantastic menu featuring an array of seafood, including fresh lobster, and a well-rounded selection of steaks dressed with dozens of different herbs and spices. While you’re waiting for your meal, visit the large appetizer buffet which features all sorts of scrumptious dishes ranging from steamed mussels to a variety of salads, sushi and freshly baked bread and pastries. One of the signature offerings of the restaurant is the wide selection of exotic dressings to accompany your meal and give 28 HAPS_spring 2013

it that special something extra you might be looking for. Originally from Como, Italy, Paolo Collavini has worked in some of the world’s best Italian kitchens across Asia, Europe, the Caribbean and the Middle East. Collavini recently returned back to the restaurant he founded several years ago with a passion to create a premier menu for patrons visiting Haeundae Beach and are seeking something that goes beyond a simple meal. “I like to keep the food simple and let the flavors come through,” says Collavini. And, true to form, the wonderfully tender Korean beef dish which the kitchen cooked for several hours at low temperatures, certainly pleased our palates during a recent visit. If you have a large party call ahead for reservations. Otherwise drop in anytime during business hours. 051-749-2274 www.busanparadisehotel.co.kr

NONGSHIM RISTORANTE

Geumjeong

The landmark Nongshim Hotel, even after all these years, still surprises and captivates its guests. Case in point: Ristorante Geumjeong. Ristorante was designed by world renowned HBA/ Hirsch Bedner Associates that have designed five-star hotels from Aruba to Zanzibar in the most alluring destinations across the globe. With its giant floor-to-ceiling windows, its installation hanging above made of 36,000 white, gold, and amber bulbs, a handful of large, glass, temperature/climate controlled wine displays containing some of the most sought-after wines for oenophiles of all stripe and budget, Ristorante’s interior bespeaks its sleek, modern design. While designer Calvin Dix has worked in various locales and received international accolades, so have co-executive chefs Maurizio Ceccato and Louis Kim. Ceccato hails from Italy, and obtained his culinary education and experience in Venice, cooked at Michelin-starred restaurants in France’s countryside, and the best hotels in Seoul before moving to Busan. Kim’s impressive resume includes cooking in Amsterdam, Beverly Hills,

Seoul, and the luxurious United States restaurant: the French Laundry in Yountville. This formidable duo’s approach puts great effort into procuring the best local ingredients, but will also provide diners the best ingredients imported from Italy including organic flour for its pasta, olive oil from Puglia, and cheeses such as taleggio, fontina Val d’Aosta, and mozzarella di bufala. In addition to the antipasti bar featuring numerous hot and cold appetizers, the freshest seafood, a cheese board, and dessert, the entrees feature dishes that adhere to tradition but may add inventive twists. For classics, there’s a perfect fettucine carbonara, a beautiful brodetto (fisherman’s stew) featuring Busan’s bounty from the sea, and the best steak in Busan: the filet mignon of Korean beef. For more creative takes on tradition, the bucatini Bolognese which substitutes ground beef for octopus or their take on canard l’orange such as the Mediterranean spiced duck breast with kumquat marmalade are fantastic. Salute! 51.550.2301 www.hotelnongshim.com 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 29

LOCANDA ROSSI Marine City, Haeundae Though only recently-opened, Locanda Rossi has already established itself as one of Busan’s best choices for Italian cuisine. Located in Zenith Square on the second floor of the towering condominium complex overhead, Locanda Rossi offers a warm, welcoming atmosphere for dining patrons. Renowned Italian chef Federico Rossi says that the name Locanda translates to “family”, and he has set out to offer a traditional taste of Italy in the middle of the rapidly expanding, posh Marine City neighborhood just off the shores of Haeundae. Rossi has been running the kitchens in several prominent Italian restaurants before opening his own here with his wife, Mina. And while local tastes may vary, Rossi sticks to a simple plan of keeping his menu as authentic as possible with Italian style and flavors. “The Korean style of Italian food is more fusion, they like to mix,” says Rossi, a native of Italy whose lived in Korea for several years. 30 HAPS_spring 2013

“I like to make it simple, more traditional and 100 percent Italian.” tLooking over Locanda Rossi’s menu will bear out Rossi’s aim to keep it traditional. From la bufalina con pomodoro e basilica (buffalo mozzarella cheese with marinated vegetables) to the bianca pizza generously covered with imported mozzarella and gorgonzola cheese, walnuts and spinach, the menu is a treasure trove of native Italian ingredients that Rossi imports weekly. The restaurant itself is the smallest on our fine dining list, seating up to 50, while offering the warm feel of a brick and natural wood interior along with a heated deck for outdoor dining. While offering the perfect atmosphere for an intimate dinner with someone special, Locanda Rossi also seats large groups as well. And if there is something you don’t see on the menu that you would like to special order, just call ahead and Rossi says he can have something special made to order for your visit. 051-744-8807 www.locandarossi.com.

PARK HYATT DINING ROOM Marine City, Haeundae With arguably the best new restaurant view in the city, the main dining room of the Park Hyatt sits perched on the 32nd floor with incredibly stylish splendor. Modeled after the inside of a traditional Korean house, the dining area as well as the interior of the entire hotel was designed by the noted Japanese firm Super Potato, which has earned worldwide distinction for design innovations. According to executive chef Stefano Di Salvo, who has been with Hyatt for 11 years running kitchens and designing menus everywhere from Shanghai to Bangkok to London, the Park Hyatt in Busan focuses on an open grill and varied selections of seafood. “We feature premium meats and seafood on the grill, so the grill is our main focus and attraction,” says Di Salvo. “The food is very simple, we focus on the quality of the product and the cooking skill.”

With the open-air design, diners are able to look on as Di Salvo’s team of top tier chefs prepare a variety of meats and seafood over an open charcoal grill. The restaurant also features a sushi bar with a wide selection domestic and international seafood, including sashimi and a wide variety of maki rolls, all served at their very freshest. The restaurant also features an expansive collection of premium wines stored in an elegant walkin glass wine cellar and of course, there is an excellent selection of sake to drink along with your meal. Afterwards, take the glass elevator down one floor to the “Living Room,” or two floors down to the “Lounge”, where both offer full-length windows looking out onto the Gwangan Bridge—an especially breathtaking sight in the evenings as Busan’s famed icon glows in various shades and hues of light. 051-990-1320 busan.park.hyatt.com 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 31

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2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 33

HSports

TALK

AMERICAN PITCHER, SHANE YOUMAN.

BACK TO WORK

JEFF LIEBSCH

ast year was a turbulent one for the Lotte Giants. “I just want to improve in every statistical category from last They finished fourth in the league with a 66-63-6 season,” he says. “Other than that, I just want to stay strong record, which are good stats for fourth place, but and healthy for the entire season, help us get over that hump, fans won’t soon forget their disappointment in make it to the Korean Series and win the title.” the playoffs against SK. The Giants lost the bestThe Giants started out the season on a sour note when Caof-five series, falling short in their bid to make their first nadian and former Toronto Blue Jays pitcher Scott Richmond finals appearance since 1999. went down to a knee injury, replacing him by acquiring veterFollowing a rocky offseason which included the firing of man- an starter Chris Oxspring. The former LG Twins pitcher helped ager Yang Seung-ho, the departures of import pitcher Ryan Sa- Australia at the World Baseball Classic in Taiwan in March dowski, outfielder Kim Joo-chan and fan favorite Hong Seung- and the Giants are hoping he and 36-year-old ex-Hanwha hoon, the fate of Lotte this season slugger Jang Seung-ho will also brings a lot of speculation of what be key contributors. “I WAS UPSET ALSO, BUT new manager Kim Si-jin has in “The addition of Jang Seung-ho THAT’S THE BUSINESS OF THE should help out greatly also. He’s a store at Sajik this year. One thing’s for sure—this year’s squad will veteran player, and he knows what look much different. And now that GAME. WE’LL MISS THEM BOTH to do with a bat,” Youman says. spring training has come to an end, “The addition of Jang Seung-ho DEARLY, BUT WE HAVE GUYS it’s time for the real work to begin to should help out greatly also. He’s a RETURNING FROM LAST bring the city its first championship veteran player, and he knows what in a long 20 years. to do with a bat.” SEASON READY TO STEP UP A key bright spot last season was The bar is always set high in Busan, AND PICK UP THE SLACK.” the acquisition of 33-year-old Amerhome to some of the sport’s most ican starting pitcher Shane Youman. notoriously lively fans. But the manNobody quite knew what to expect from the Iberia, Louisiana agement hasn’t made it easy for players to live up to such lofty native when he reached the peninsula in 2012, but by the end expectations. After losing Lee Dae-ho to Japan in 2011, and of the year, a season which saw him lead the team in almost ev- with the departures of Kim and Hong this year, Youman underery statistical pitching category, including a 13-7 record, with stands fan reactions but notes that it’s certainly not the end of 142 strikeouts and a 2.55 ERA in 179 2/3 innings, he came out the world. of nowhere to become not only the ace of the staff, but one of “I was upset also, but that’s the business of the game. We’ll the most dominant pitchers in the league. His season was also miss them both dearly, but we have guys returning from highlighted by a one-hit gem on April 30 against LG, which saw last season ready to step up and pick up the slack. Don’t know him strikeout seven. if it will be in the form of homers and stolen bases, but hopeAny expectations to beat those numbers this season may fully it will be in ways that translate into scoring runs, which is seem a stretch, but Youman is up to the challenge. all that matters.” 34 HAPS_spring 2013

FIVE KEY PLAYERS TO WATCH SONG SEUNG-JUN

The crafty ex-major leaguer failed to win 10 games for the first time in the last five years and will need to regain the stuff that saw him win 52 games the previous four seasons. JEON JOON-WOO

Jeon’s batting average plummeted to .253 last season from .301 in 2011. He will be counted on heavily to spark the offense this year.

PARK JONG-YOON SOHN AH-SEOP

The first baseman picked to replace Lee Dae-ho in 2012 hit nine homers and batted .257, but didn’t quite fit the shoes left by the big man as expected.

Sohn led the team with a .314 average last year, including a league-leading 158 hits, and Lotte will be counting on his production once again.

KANG MIN-HO

The 29-year-old veteran catcher will need to stay healthy the entire season, a feat he has failed to do in his 10 seasons with Lotte.

SCHEDULE FRI, APRIL 5 - KIA SAT, APRIL 6 - KIA SUN, APRIL 7 - KIA TUES, APRIL 16 - NEXEN WED, APRIL 17 - NEXEN THU, APRIL 18 - NEXEN TUES, APRIL 23 - SK WED, APRIL 24 - SK THU, APRIL 25 - SK FRI, MAY 3 - SAMSUNG

SAT, MAY 4 - SAMSUNG SUN, MAY 5 - SAMSUNG FRI, MAY 10 - LG SAT, MAY 11 - LG SUN, MAY 12 - LG TUES, MAY 14 - NC DINOS WED, MAY 15 - NC DINOS THU, MAY 16 - NC DINOS TUES, MAY 28 - DOOSAN WED, MAY 29 - DOOSAN

BUSAN I’PARK SCHEDULE SUNDAY, APRIL 7 - SEONGNAM WEDNESDAY, APRIL 17 - SUWON SUNDAY, APRIL 28 - DAEJEON SATURDAY, MAY 11 - POHANG SATURDAY, MAY 25 - INCHEON

SON HEUNG-MIN’S FUTURE LOOKING BRIGHT South Korea’s berth to 2014 Brazil World Cup took a step in the right direction with a 2-1 last second victory over Qatar at the Seoul World Cup Stadium at the end of March. Son Heung-min, the hero in the victory over Qatar, scored his first goal in nearly two years on the international level since earning his first cap in January 2011 after coming on as a substitute in the 80th minute. The 20-year-old Son has attracted a lot of interest around Europe, as he’s scored nine goals for his German club, Hamburg SV this season, and has been linked with possible transfers to Arsenal, Liverpool, Chelsea and Manchester United, and his dazzling skill and goals are being compared to Cristiano Ronaldo. “My contract is up in 2014, and a player is supposed to work hard on the field,” he said as he kept avoiding the most pressing question by reporters upon returning to Germany after the game. Son has been an integral part of his club, but has yet to crack manager Choi Kang-hee’s starting lineup, to the dismay of fans and media alike, with some calling for the ex-Jeonbuk manager to get the axe for relying too much on his aging veterans, and not the young core of talents like Koo Jae-cheol, Ji Dong-min and Son. Korea has 10 points from five games, a point behind Uzbekistan who have played one more game in Group A, while Iran and Qatar both have seven points. South Korea has three games remaining—one each against Lebanon, Uzbekistan and Iran—in order to qualify for their eighth straight World Cup appearance. All three games will take place in June. The two best teams in the group will get an automatic berth at the World Cup in Brazil. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 35

HTravel INTERNATIONAL

36 HAPS_spring 2013

BANGLADESH:

HERE’S WATCHING YOU, MAN BY

SAM HAZELTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILL JACKSON

SAM HAZELTON RECOUNTS HIS TIME IN BANGLADESH THIS PAST WINTER. FROM FEVER TO RIOTS TO BEING THE CONSTANT CENTER OF ATTENTION.

fter being sick with fever for the past few days, I’ve never experienced a place so loud. It is utter madness, a I sit on the beach at Cox’s Bazaar in Bangla- boiling hive of humanity where everyone is doing everything all desh when a little boy of about 12 walks over the time. Dark-skinned, leathery men chipping away at graveto my parasol and ducks his head beneath the stones, rickshaws rickshawing, buses honking, children naked canopy holding a thermos of tea. He’s bare- from the waist down sifting through piles of urban rubbish, foot with dirty jeans rolled up just below the legless beggars navigating the broken landscape at my feet... knee, an old collared t-shirt, jet-black hair and It shouldn’t work, it is simply too crowded, but somehow a chamatching dark eyes. A warm wind is blowing, and for the first otic inertia keeps it from having a full blown and colossally bleak time this entire trip, it is quiet. In front of me is a powdery sun seizure. the color of a nectarine hanging two fingers above the horizon. Here on the beach, famed for being a 125-km stretch of unbroFishing boats shaped like elf-shoes are just off the shore lan- ken white sand, it is inevitable that I’ll be surrounded by inquisiguidly floating in the Bay of Bengal. tive Bangladeshis. Some will film me with their camera phones, This is the first time in days I’ve done anything other than some will beg, some will peddle, but most will be happy to simwrithe in bed. I’m sitting here knowply watch me watching something. ing that at some point a group of loThey’ll just watch. If I adjust my hat, IT SHOULDN’T WORK, cals will be watching me. All of them or cough, or smile, it will highlight will want to know where I’m from the episode. IT IS SIMPLY TOO CROWDED, and I’ll tell them “England” or “NorIt has been constant for three way”. I won’t tell them “Antarctica” BUT SOMEHOW A CHAOTIC weeks. Outside of one’s hotel room because I’m not feeling cheeky tothere is no solitude, no stopping to day. I definitely won’t tell them the take it all in. There are two gears: INERTIA KEEPS IT FROM truth—that I’m American—because moving or being surrounded. On on my first day in Dhaka, the capital HAVING A FULL BLOWN AND the train from Khulna to Rajshahi, no city, I watched buses burn and colthan 40 grown men watched COLOSSALLY BLEAK SEIZURE. fewer umns of black smoke twist into the me drink a 7-Up. If they come to sky as military personnel deployed watch me today, feeling like I’m feelflash-bang grenades and shot rioting Islamic activists (Jamaat e ing, like I’ve walked out of a dark movie theatre into daylight, Islami) with rubber bullets outside my hotel window. post fever lassitude and all, I’ll go back to my room and watch Old wounds leftover from a vicious war of independence with one of the Twilight movies. Pakistan. One in which America is still seen as complicit with the So, I’m sitting here and it’s a beautiful day and I’m... melanenemy. As the riots raged I decided I didn’t want my American- choly. Three weeks in Bangladesh—the warmth of the people, ness spreading to those who feel honor-bound to kill me. the bracing poverty, the disfigured, but most of all the deafenIt would seem as though I’ve crossed some invisible line that ing bedlam of 150 million souls clamouring for space has shaken exists somewhere in and around Indonesia. In Bangladesh I feel me. Then this little boy with bare feet and dirty jeans holding like I’m under the gaze of Mecca. The Muslims here are less at- a thermos of tea dips his head beneath the canopy, raises the tenuated by the diluting mysticism of the Southeast that seems thermos and asks: “You enjoy tea?” to blunt the edge of Islam’s saber. If lying about my nationality “No thanks,” I say. makes me a coward, so be it. And he turns and leaves with no extra ceremony, no extra I spent my days in Dhaka searching for an analogue, some sort push, no bargaining, nothing. I’m all by myself, and I almost start of connection with things I had seen in my past. The choking to cry. That was the kid I wanted to buy tea from. I watch him traffic reminded me of Manila, but it lacked that Filipino glue- go and it’s windy and warm and silent and I can only hear the sniffing destitution. Perhaps Medan, in Sumatra, with it’s osten- sound of the surf detonate on shore. sible piety might bear a resemblance, but Dhaka is different— 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 37

HTRAVEL KOREA

48 HOURS IN SEOUL STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRIS BACKE

HEADED TO SEOUL ON A WEEKEND? TRAVEL WRITER CHRIS BACKE LAYS OUT A CONCISE 48-HOUR PLAN FOR WHERE TO GO AND WHAT TO DO.

pending two days in Seoul is a bit like spending a halfhour inside a three-story museum. You’ll enjoy it, but you’ll quickly realize how little time that really is. “Seeing it all” isn’t an option. That said, two days will fly by with a mixture of old and new.

alley comes to an end, bear right and walk about 50 meters. Ride the subway two stops towards Daehwa, exiting at Dongnimmun Station. 3:30 P.M.: Arrive at Seodaemun Prison Museum Hall (from Dongnimmun Station, take exit 5 to street level) and begin taking in a place that somehow combines “torture” and “kid-friendDAY 1 ly”. In one example, a webcam takes your picture, then superim10:00 A.M.: Start with the National Museum of Korean Contem- poses it into a projected movie torturing your body. porary History. That the museum gets campier shouldn’t be sur5:00 P.M.: After the torture, it’s time for a little trivia. In a city prising. Be sure to enjoy the room where you can beat a drum to of 10 million, where might you find some sheep? Located near a video from the World Cup. Hongik University, the sheep cafe holds a pair of cute animals Gwanghwamun Station, line 5, exit 2. Walk straight down the for your photographing pleasure. Hongik University Station, sidewalk, pass the US Embassy and look right. exit 9, walk 100 meters and turn left. You’ll pass a building con11:30 A.M.: Make your way to Gwanghwamun Plaza in the taining a number of restaurants (including Subway and Dos Tacenter of the road. Head inside Sejong’s statue for the “Story of cos). Where that building ends is a set of stairs heading down Sejong”, a quaintly-sized archive of Korea’s most highly regard- and a large tree providing shade; head down for the Thanks Naed king and some of his creations. ture Café. 12:00 P.M.: Head towards Cheonggyecheon, home of the beThe evening is yours: check out Hongdae Park nearby to see low-street-level stream and dozens of restaurants. The red-and- what’s up. From the sheep café, keep walking up the hill towards blue spiral vividly marks the start of one of Seoul’s largest de- the university. Cross the road to the right, then head up the velopment projects in recent decades. Get some lunch nearby. side road to the right. After climbing the short hill, look left for 1:30 P.M.: Begin making your way to Insa-dong. With the red- the park. and-blue spiral at your back, walk to the second major intersection of Cheonggyecheon (청계2가 사거리, Cheong-gye-2-ga DAY 2 sa-geo-ri). Turn left. At the next intersection cross straight, then For better or worse, a certain video by a now-infamous musician bear left. has given Gangnam a style to live up to. Wear comfortable shoes To the left is the Knife Gallery, an odd mash-up of store, for the fair amount of walking today. gallery and museum. A 1,000-won entry fee is well worth the 10:00 A.M.: Even if you’ve never had an interest in plastic suropportunity to take in some exotic corners and time periods. gery, the BK Plastic Surgery Museum (BK 성형 박물관) is unusual Also on your left is Toto’s old toy museum (토토의오래된물건), enough to merit a visit. Jawbones, silicone breasts, and plenty a nostalgic look at yesteryear’s playthings, both of Korean and more are on display. Western origin. Directions: Sinsa Station, line 3, exit 2. Walk 10 meters and look Once finished in Insa-dong, get thee to the subway. When the right for the BK Hospital, then head to the second floor. 38 HAPS_spring 2013

Once finished, make your way to exit 8 and walk 300 meters, then turn left down Garuso-gil. Walk another 100 meters and look for it on your left. 11:00 A.M.: The third through fifth floors of the Simone Handbag Museum are the museum part of the building, featuring everything from post-modern designs with exotic materials to last century’s more practical bags. Other floors include a purse store and the requisite coffee shop, but go further down for the “Material Bazaar” to have a bag custom-made. Once finished here, meander down the tree-lined street to the main road. When you reach Apgujeong-ro-14-gil (the main road), make a right and continue towards Apgujeong station. There are ample restaurants around, but be prepared for the upscale nature of the area. 1:30 P.M.: Time to see where “Gangnam Style” got started? Walk to Rodeo Drive, an area started in the early ‘90s emulating the Beverly Hills area it’s named after. From exit 2 of Apgujeong Station, make a quick U-turn to your left, then walk down the street to your right. Cross straight about 500 meters, then begin looking right for the side streets. 3:30 P.M.: When finished, take a taxi down to Sinnonhyeon station (신논현역) and Gangnam’s main strip. Restaurants,

cafes, and clothing shops line Gangnam’s sidewalk, and ensure a crowded lane. The touchscreens showing information and the skyscrapers all bring an energy to the air. Head out exit 5 or 6 and walk straight; either side of the street will be interesting, as are the side streets. 6:00 P.M.: Hop on the subway at Gangnam and ride line 2 east to Konkuk University station. Take exit 2 down to street level, then allow yourself to meander through the dozens of options for dinner and drinks. Kondae lacks the clubs and overpriced pretentiousness, and feels more Korean. Your last stop of the night is Dongdaemun History and Culture Park. Take exit 13 or 14 to street level. Dongdaemun’s mix of shopping, performances, and crowds takes it to 11... and later. Some of the department stores don’t close until well after the subways stop running for the evening. Chris Backe is an avid travel blogger at chrisinsouthkorea.com, and has made it a point to visit a new place or event every week. He’s recently released “Weird and Wonderful Korea”, a travel guide with pictures and directions to over 100 of Korea’s off-thebeaten-path places, available as an e-book on Amazon, Apple, B&N and in print.

ASK A LOCAL

HAPS ASKS SOME SEASONED LOCALS ABOUT WHAT THEY LIKE ABOUT BUSAN AND WHAT THEY WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE LIVING AND VISITING HERE. NAME: Kim So-yeon OCCUPATION: Student at PNU RESIDENCE: Busan WHAT IS A PLACE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? The first place that comes to mind is Bukchon Hanok Village. It is presumably the only place in Korea where people can see both traditional and modern Korea. It gives a distinctive impression about Korea now and in the past. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT? There is a very unique restaurant called Gipeongol Hwangto Maru in Gijang-gu, Busan. They serve high-quality meat grilled on a large stone plate on your table along with fresh organic vegetables. After the meal, you can chill in a Hanok (traditional Korean house) with a stone floor, go hiking or play foot volleyball. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY SPRING IN KOREA? Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do would be the best place to enjoy spring in Korea. Boseong is famous for green tea farms and, of course, in the spring, all the new leaves come out and seeing them refreshes the mind and body. You can also drink as well as enjoy green tea dishes, stroll along the cedar tree trail and relax at Yulpo beach. CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMEWHERE TO ENJOY THAT EXPATS MAY NOT HAVE DISCOVERED? There is a beautiful, hidden trail along the southwestern most coast of Busan, at the start of Haeparang Trail. It stretches from Oryukdo to Igidae and it has beautiful scenery. Walking through its natural trails distant from the city will make you feel relaxed while enjoying the great view of coastal Busan, Gwangalli and Haeundae.

NAME: Kim Keun-young OCCUPATION: Student at Dong-a University RESIDENCE: Dangni, Saha Gu WHAT IS A PLACE YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO PEOPLE VISITING KOREA FOR THE FIRST TIME? Jeonju, where you can feel traditional Korea at Hanok Village and a traditional market. (Jeonju Hanok Village is known as a slow city.) And you can feel young at the “real new town” (레알뉴타운). Jeonju is also famous for hanji (traditional Korean paper), bibimbap and its painting village. You can get lots of different experiences. WHERE IS YOUR FAVORITE PLACE TO EAT IN BUSAN THAT PEOPLE MAY NOT KNOW ABOUT? Nampo-dong, but specifically in the alleys. There are some very good places hidden away, from fine Korean food to Thai cuisine. If you walk around the alleys at Nampo, you can find lots of unique places to eat. WHERE IS THE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY SPRING IN KOREA? At Jinhae, just outside of Busan. The Jinhae Gungangje (Cherry Blossom Festival) is held from April 1 to 10. It is one of the biggest spring flower festivals in Korea. You can definitely feel the spring and can enjoy many performances. CAN YOU RECOMMEND SOMEWHERE TO ENJOY THAT EXPATS MAY NOT HAVE DISCOVERED? I would recommend Hwamyeong Sumokwon (화명수목원). You can feel real naturein the middle of the city by taking a walk and seeing many kinds of trees. I think it is a good place for a picnic and rest.

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 39

Community Corner

THE EDEN CENTER:

AN OASIS FOR KOREA’S GIFTED MISFITS BY HAL SWINDALL

STANDING OUT IS NOT ALWAYS THE BEST WAY TO SUCCEED IN TRADITIONAL NORTHEAST ASIAN CULTURE, BUT ZHE HYOUNGBEOM HAS CREATED A SPECIAL ENVIRONMENT WHERE KOREA’S GIFTED YOUTH CAN EXCEL.

round the world, Korean kids are famous as aca- by saying, “My child is gifted.” To keep his community together, demic whizzes who study endlessly and score Zhe publishes a regular newsletter and offers family workshops, high. With so much emphasis on scholastic where some mothers become tearful as they describe their tribachievement, one would think that intellectually ulations to each other. gifted and creative kids would easily succeed For the kids themselves, Zhe leads activities which provide socially and academically in Korean schools. Yet them with learning experiences. These include a “cooking scithere is a dark side to the system, namely an oppressive con- ence class” in which they learn about scientific principles by formity, which influences everyone to avoid being labeled a cooking with their own hands, as well as making such things wangtta, or social outcast. as stories with pictures, drums, dolls and ancient sword repliZhe Hyoungbeom, a former IT worker with major companies, cas. This hands-on approach makes Eden different from govfounded the Eden Center in Bundang, just south of Seoul, in ernment-funded gifted education in Korea, which focuses on 2009. In a country where emphasis is placed on effort rather accelerated math and science ability. Eden also deviates from than inborn talent, Zhe offers a haven the norm by offering emotional develwhere brilliant misfits from all over opment to gifted children, which Zhe TO KEEP HIS COMMUNITY Gyeonggi-do can develop their crebelieves they need as much as intellecativity. The center gets its name from tual training. TOGETHER, ZHE PUBLISHES A Edison, Da Vinci, Einstein and Newton, At present, Zhe has 20 to 25 regular REGULAR NEWSLETTER AND all of whom were a little peculiar. It is mentees coming in, with about 30 famprecisely the unusual personalities of ilies attending workshops and 30 to 35 OFFERS FAMILY WORKSHOPS, gifted children who come to Eden that children participating in monthly field creates difficulties in relating to peers, WHERE SOME MOTHERS BECOME trips. Half are from Seoul, the rest from since they are more sensitive and have around Gyeonggi-do. Eden receives no TEARFUL AS THEY DESCRIBE wider vocabularies. They are often perstate funding, with all revenue from priTHEIR TRIBULATIONS. ceived as arrogant know-it-alls, and vate sponsors and fees. It is thus commake less gifted children feel jealous pletely independent. and insecure. The subsequent bullying begins with verbal atAlthough willing to continue going it alone, Zhe hopes similar tacks, but can escalate to physical violence without teacher in- centers will open across the country. He refers to his charges as tervention, and many of Zhe’s pupils have been traumatized by “jewels in the mud,” and believes they can be highly valuable to one or both forms of abuse. Zhe is currently writing a manual their society when they grow up. for bullied gifted children, and advises them to respond to and The issue of inborn giftedness is debated in the West as well report incidents of harassment. as East Asia, but all of Zhe’s clients have children who clearly Gifted children also have problems with their parents, so Zhe inherited something that makes them different. Their parents provides counseling to couples with unusual children whom did not raise them to be the way they are. Smart kids do not they think may be gifted. Since gifted children are sensitive to have it so easy in Western countries, either, but at least there are environmental stimuli such as noise, their parents sometimes official programs for them like Gifted and Talented Education. think they may be abnormal; also, gifted children are strong- Although it may not single-handedly reform Korean education, willed and have emphatic preferences, so they often clash with the Eden Center provides vital aid to a fortunate group of spetheir parents, who sometimes become emotionally exhausted. cial youngsters. Zhe has therefore created a community of gifted children’s parFor more info, you can visit their website at cafe.daum.net/edenents in which they can “come out of the closet” and “stand tall” center (Korean) or contact Zhe: zhehb@e-ges.com 40 HAPS_spring 2013

Ask an Expat

BFIA’S NEW BOSS BRINGS MORE SERVICES BY TORY MOCK

EXPAT EXTRACTS

NAME: John Baratta AGE: 52 HOMETOWN: Portland, Oregon OCCUPATION: Innovation Director HOW LONG IN KOREA? Over five years WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA?

We have been working/living in Asia for the better part of 20 years; Korea was the next stop on the tour.

ANY DIFFERENCES IN DOING BUSINESS IN KOREA AND YOUR COUNTRY? The hierarchical nature of Korean companies can slow things down, as most decisions need to go to the top for review. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: The Haedong Yonggungsa seaside temple, originally built in the 1300s, destroyed during the Japanese invasion but restored in the 1930s, is a must-see.

THE BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES HAS EXPANDED ITS OFFERINGS, INCLUDING FREE LESSONS NOT ONLY IN KOREAN, BUT IN OTHER FOREIGN LANGUAGES AS WELL.

fter nearly three decades of public service in the city, Kim Young-chun has taken over the helm at the Busan Foundation for International Activities—the first native Busanite to head up the government-run program designed to help foreigners with problems they might encounter while living abroad. BFIA is located in the Busan Global Center, a large, elaborate facility just across from City Hall. Its mission is: to globalize the city by promoting international exchanges both here in Busan and abroad with sister cities located around the world. One of the more popular services offered by BFIA is the international call center (1577-7716) which gives dedicated phone assistance to foreigners—all day Monday through Saturday—in seven different languages including, Korean, English, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indonesian, Russian and Uzbek. Kim says that most of the problems foreigners face when living abroad are language-based and his team is stepping in to bridge that gap. “Foreigners who visit Busan sometimes have problems, and many times it is with communication,” says Kim. “The call center is very helpful.” BFIA also helps foreigners who have difficulties with their jobs here. “When foreigners have problems in their workplace, if they don’t know Korean law and regulations and if they have complaints or other problems, they can ask the call center for help.” Of the many offerings from BFIA, one of the more unique is the free language courses. What makes it unusual is that the center offers not only Korean language courses, but also free classes in other mother tongues such as Vietnamese, Tagalog, Mongolian and several others depending on the popularity of enrollment. For more info on BFIA and their many expat services, you can visit the website at www.bfia.or.kr, or phone the call center at 1577-7716.

BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? During the months that contain an “r”, go to the fish market at Gwangalli and load up with live shellfish, fresh sashimi, etc. then walk down the street to one of the tents that offer grills to use for casual dining fun. For adult beverages, Sharky’s and Wolfhound offer selections of unique beers with new arrivals showing up frequently. ANY ADVICE FOR VISITORS OR NEW EXPATS COMING TO THE CITY? Keep in mind that you are a guest: things are supposed to be different, English is not widely used and frustration is inevitable. What matters is how you deal with the frustration and the creative solutions you come up with. NAME: Mika Lehtonen AGE: 41 HOMETOWN: I was born in a very small archipelago town called Kustavi in Finland but currently living in city of Hämeenlinna. OCCUPATION: President HOW LONG IN KOREA? One year, four months WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO KOREA? I started as the president of GS-Hydro Korea Ltd, which is a Finland-based company doing high-pressure non-welded piping systems for offshore, marine and land-based industries. ANY DIFFERENCES IN DOING BUSINESS IN KOREA AND YOUR COUNTRY? Many but when you get used to local habits, it’s a pleasure to work with motivated & hardworking people. MUST-SEE FOR NEW ARRIVALS: Nurimaru APEC island & house, easy going outdoor area in the heart of Haeundae! BEST PLACE TO GO EAT OR DRINK? Generally Korean (BBQ) food is excellent , but I especially like a tuna-sushi place called Mi Ga in Hadan. ANY ADVICE FOR VISITORS OR NEW EXPATS COMING TO THE CITY? Be extra careful with the traffic! 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 41

Dining & Food

MY TABLE IS YOURS

BY ANTHONY VELASQUEZ

TUCKED AWAY IN HAEUNDAE’S MARINE CITY, MY TABLE IS A GREAT PLACE TO RELAX AND ENJOY AN EXCELLENT SELECTION OF DESSERTS, SANDWICHES AND SALADS.

mong the towers of I’Park in Marine City, tucked in the middle of Zenith Square, where organic farmers, ceramic visual artists and coffee roasters converge in this inviting, aesthetic space, we get My Table Café. Owner Jay Song is a gregarious renaissance woman of a host. Busan-raised and Seoul-educated, Song spent over a decade working in Seoul for Standard Chartered and General Motors. Returning to Busan to teach International Office Management at a local university, she then studied culinary arts and pursued her dream to open a café. While there are a handful of savory snacks on the menu (the organic salad with a ciabatta sandwich, the popular pumpkin soup or the sea mustard noodles, for example), My Table is known as a dessert café which adheres to Slow Food tenets. Almost everything is homemade here, featuring organics and the most superior products one can procure. Song scours the traditional markets looking for the best produce for her smoothies, teas, and fruit-ades (lemon, orange, apple and raspberry). The fresh ginseng milk smoothie that takes days to blend with honey, as many of her fruit teas do, is creative, healthy and delicious.

42 HAPS_spring 2013

My Table’s yogurts, made in-house, offer two tasty flavors. There is a thick, tart, plain flavor like Greek yogurt balanced with raspberries, blueberries, red currants, cranberries and topped with baked crumbles. The other is a persimmon flavor with a subtle sweetness and a consistency between yogurt and sorbet. My Table’s persimmons come only from Gyeongbuk-do, directly ordered from farmers. Another highlight from the dessert menu is the tiramisu made with only 100 percent imported mascarpone. Like these farm-to-table relationships, the same goes with the coffee from farm-to-cup. My Table serves In Earth, which has direct relations to bean farms and is roasted in Songjeong Beach. My drip coffee from Nicaragua was smooth and rich, with nutty, chocolatey notes served in a cup made by ceramic artist Kim Sun-mee, whose ceramics have exhibited in Paris and Seoul. For those looking for a buzz of a different sort, beer and sangrias are also available. Getting there: My Table is located in the Zenith Square complex in Marine City, Haeundae. Enter the building through gate 3, across the road from the IPark SSG Food Market, and walk ahead 10 meters. It’s on the left next to the GS Mart in front of the downward escalator.

Home Cooking

THE DISH:

POTATO, 포타토

BY JEN SOTHAM AND EUGENE OH

THOUGH JEN AND JAE HAIL FROM DIFFERENT CULTURES, THE ONSET OF SPRING GETS THEM CRAVING DIFFERENT VERSIONS OF THE SAME FOOD – PANCAKES!

he longer I live in Busan, the more connected I feel to Korean culture. When holidays come around, I realize that the relationship between Korean families and the traditional foods that define said holidays bears a striking resemblance to that of the Jewish family I hail from. In a conversation with my close friend Jae last week, I told her that the onset of spring made me nostalgic for my mom’s cooking and the foods I associate with Passover and Yom

Kippur; namely, potato latkes. For Jae and her family, spring represents that last of the kimchi that was made in the fall (the most flavorful), which is used to prepare kimchijeon. The following are recipes that have been strongholds in Jae’s and my family traditions. I might try to talk Jae into letting me come to one of her family gatherings this spring to get my pancake fix.

RONI’S POTATO LATKES MAKES 20-24 LATKES INGREDIENTS: 4 large potatoes (grated) 1 small white onion (grated) 2 eggs 1/3 cup all purpose flour 1/3 cup breadcrumbs (a substitute for matzoh meal) 1 tsp each of salt and pepper Vegetable oil (for frying) DIRECTIONS: After grating the potatoes, use a cheesecloth or colander to squeeze all of the excess water out. Crack the eggs into a large bowl and beat them. Mix the rest of the ingredients in the bowl until the mixture is even and sticks together. Heat oil in a pan until it starts to bubble. Each latke should be a whopping tablespoon on the mixture, probably 4-5 per pan. Let one side cook until they are golden brown and then flip. Drain the oil in paper towel. Serve with sour cream.

JEOM JA PARK’S KIMCHIJEON MAKES 4-6 LARGE PANCAKES INGREDIENTS: Small block of tofu 1 cup of jeon (boochim) flour 1 cup chopped kimchi 3 sprigs of green onion (diced) 2 eggs Soy sauce (for dipping) 1 hot red pepper (diced, for dipping sauce) DIRECTIONS: Get rid of all the water in the tofu and mash it. Mix the flour with the mashed tofu until the consistency is thick. Mix kimchi, eggs and spring onions with the batter. Heat oil in a frying pan on a medium flame and when it is hot, fill the pan with a thin layer of batter. When the underside of the pancake is brown, carefully flip it. Drain on paper towel. Mix 1 tsp of diced pepper into 1/3 cup of soy sauce for dipping. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 43

Wine & Dine

WINE:

FIVE FOR SPRING BY ANTHONY VELASQUEZ

CHOOSING THE RIGHT WINE CAN BE A PAIN IN THE GLASS. ANTHONY VELASQUEZ OFFERS UP FIVE COOL PICKS FOR THE WARMING SPRING WEATHER.

GUNTRUM RIESLING 2011

From Rheinhessen in Germany, this family has been making quality wine since 1648. Citrus and pear with its hallmark notes of honey and petrol, pair with spicy dishes or a cheese plate. (Sunz Gallery, 50,000 won.)

CHATEAU GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE 2007

TESCO CENTRAL OTAGO PINOT NOIR 2010

ZONIN PROSECCO BRUT

MEZZACORONA PINOT GRIGIO 2011

G-P-L comes from Pauillac, the most revered sub-appellation of Bordeaux. Despite its 1855 fifth-growth status, it perennially outclasses those of superior pedigree. Comprised mostly of rich, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s a good buy for claret collectors or imbibers. (Shinsegae’s basement wine shop, 70,000 won.)

Prosecco from the Veneto region usually made into Italian sparkling wine, offers ripe Granny Smiths, slight yeast with a lively effervescence to a graphite finish. From aperitivo to dessert, matches almost everything. (Lotte Mart, 25,000 won.) 44 HAPS_spring 2013

From New Zealand, specifically the world’s most southerly wine region, this pinot is replete with dusty cherry, Burgundian barnyard and tart acidity. Give it some time as it melds into cherry cola/coffee bean flavors, especially for oenophiles who enjoy the funkadelics paired with salmon, chicken and grilled duck. (Homeplus, normally 38,000 won, sometimes on sale for 19,000.)

This pinot grigio from the foothills of the Dolomites in northeastern Italy is very crisp with citrus of lemon, kumquats and faint minerality. It is the perfect match for seafood, grilled or raw. (E-Mart, 12,000 won.)

Dining & Food

MORE FINE OPTIONS

STILL HUNGRY FOR MORE FINE DINING SPOTS? HERE ARE A FEW EXTRA PICKS OF SOME OF BUSAN’S BEST, GUARANTEED TO PLEASE EVEN THE MOST DISCRIMINATING FOODIES AMONG US. BON APPÉTIT!

MOMOYAMA POSH NOSH WESTERN FOOD, SEOMYEON Known for its eclectic atmosphere (including an indoor pond) and unique take on Western food, Posh Nosh offers Italian pastas, upscale burgers and stone-oven baked pizzas. 051-804-1211

JAPANESE, SEOMYEON Perched up on the 43rd floor of the Lotte Hotel, Momoyama’s head chef brings over 30 years experience (literally) to your table. 051-810-6360

BELLA CITTA NAE DANG KOREAN, GEUMJEONG Modeled in the style of a traditional Korean hanok dwelling, Nae Dang serves up some of the city’s best Korean cuisine in an elegant setting. 051-550-2335

ITALIAN, GWANGAN Perhaps one of the most unique dining interiors in Busan, with all sorts of nooks and crannies to explore, including a small gallery. 051-711-0010

YEYIJE VENTANAS STEAK AND SEAFOOD, HAEUNDAE Located on the fourth floor of the Novotel Ambassador, Ventanas cozy atmosphere and splendid views of the ocean complement their choice meats and seafood menu. 051-746-8481

KOREAN, HAEUNDAE Your money is well spent at this popular Korean eatery that specializes in meat, seafood and course sets. It’s popular, so call ahead for reservations to be safe. 051-731-1100 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 45

Music Scene

THE RISE OF

JUMI LEE

BY BOBBY MCGILL TRANSLATION BY KIM SO-YEON PHOTOS BY LEE JEONG-HWA JAZZ VOCALIST JUMI LEE IS BUSAN’S OWN CONTRIBUTION TO THE RISING TIDE OF JAZZ HERE ON THE PENINSULA. HAPS SPOKE WITH LEE ABOUT THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF THE GENRE.

efore the debut of jazz vocalist Jumi Lee’s the American military presence and the music they brought CD, The Rising Sun, I was given a preview of along. a few tracks before they were pressed. As I “Among jazz vocalists, there was Park Sung-yeon,” Lee says. listened, I was bowled over by the strong “She auditioned for the Eighth United States Army Band in vocal presence flowing through. The woman 1978 and sang as a jazz musician. Around that same period, has some serious pipes. some big bands came to Korea and they influenced the first A 29-year-old Busan native who received her degree in ap- [generation of] Korean jazz musicians.” plied music from Busan Arts College, Lee pays the bills working Lee considers herself to be a part of the third generation of as a visiting professor at her alma mater, as well as the Dong-Eui jazz in Korea and, thankfully, part of an increasingly growing Conservatory. To look at Lee, with her unassuming demeanor movement away from contemporary jazz (i.e. Kenny G drab) and petite frame, one wouldn’t imagine her to be in possession into the art form’s more traditional roots tied to foundation of the cool yet warmly rich voice which pours forth from her artists such as John Coltrane, Charles Mingus, Ella Fitzgerald recordings and live performances. and Lee’s biggest inspiration, Sarah Vaughan. Aside from the occasional small talk during our interview, This kind of shift is being witnessed by countries beyond our entire conversation was conducted through an inter- just Korea. “Especially, now that so many musicians are compreter and yet, interestingly, every tune on The Rising Sun, ing back from other countries with different styles, it’s beaside of the final track 바람이 (Baracoming so much more diverse,” says mi), is comprised of English lyrics Lee. “For example, last year, 100 jazz NOW THAT SO MANY translated from Jumi’s Korean-written albums were released, which was words, along with four jazz standards, MUSICIANS ARE COMING BACK phenomenal.” including two Cole Porter classics. This is welcome news for jazz lovFROM OTHER COUNTRIES WITH ers. Though the lyrical flow of the origiOn the downside, finding a spot DIFFERENT STYLES, IT’S nal tracks at times sounds forced, Lee featuring jazz in Korea can lead to an and July Chai, her lyrical translator, off-chord tone of despair. Currently BECOMING SO MUCH MORE have done well constructing some in Busan, the only place to consisDIVERSE... LAST YEAR, 100 highly melodic verse on the ninetently hear jazz has been Monk, near track debut disc. University, although the JAZZ ALBUMS WERE RELEASED, Kyungsung Backed by a lineup of exceptionally less-than-one-year-old Jazz Cat, up competent jazz artists, including Hithe street from Monk, may mark the WHICH WAS PHENOMENAL. royuki Oguruma on bass, Tsuneharu genre’s rising popularity. Even still, Kinoshita on drums and Yoko Komori splitting tracks on the pickings are pretty slim south of Seoul, which itself offers piano with Sera Jo, The Rising Sun, which was recorded in Fu- only a smattering of venues. kuoka, Japan on the Universal Music label, is an excellent first The market might soon bend not only the rising public inoffering that is sure to please the jazz purist. terest, however, but also to the wealth of musicians learning I was curious why she chose to use English lyrics rather than the art form abroad and bringing it back home. Along with those of her own native tongue. a sudden growth in Korean big bands here on the penin“Frankly, when I sing in Korean, I cannot sing well, especially sula, free jazz and other more innovative and highly improthe high-pitched tones. It is really difficult to sing in Korean, visational forms of the genre are starting to appear in clubs as other musicians will attest,” says Lee. “Even though Korean around the country. can be very poetic and highly expressive, it is not easy to sing “Even avant-garde jazz is becoming popular,” says Lee with a well. In addition, when I perform in other countries, English is tone of excitement as to where the art form is heading. “Now, the language that everyone can empathize with.” we are running towards our zenith. Musicians are booming On the timeline of jazz history, Korea is a relative newcomer and solid foundations are now all established in many differto the scene and, much like Japan, was heavily influenced by ent styles. I can say, jazz in Korea is on a rapid rise.”

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Nightlife & Music

CROSSNOTE

BY EUGENE SMITH

CROSSNOTE IS ONE OF THOSE RARITIES IN THE MUSIC WORLD: THEY ACTUALLY MAKE A LIVING OFF OF THEIR MUSIC. EUGENE SMITH TELLS US MORE ABOUT BUSAN’S TOURING JAZZ COLLECTION. A high level of professionalism and finely-honed perfection are the first things one notices during a CrossNote performance. With over 14 years of experience, the jazz-fusion band knows exactly what they’re doing, and they’re doing it right. All members studied music performance and composition during their university years and are all able to play at least three instruments. CrossNote is not limited to its five core members during live gigs, and are often accompanied by guest musicians and vocalists, allowing the band to expand to other genres including pop and soft rock. Since playing in the band is the full time job for each member, they only perform professionally in top-notch engagements that range from government parades to five-star hotels to their regular Thursday night gig at The Back Room in Haeundae. Occasionally, the band does enjoy getting back to the basics by jamming in the city’s smoky bars or busking on Busan’s beaches, where, once, their music set the backdrop for a young couple’s proposal. Due to the fact that their primary income relies on performances, all five band members have, in the past, felt pressure to only play cover-songs to satisfy the average audience member. But the group has recently decided to focus more on original tunes, as demonstrated by the release of their debut album in 2010. The disk contains a mix of well-known covers as well as some original compositions. It is a well-known fact that jazz albums are incredibly difficult to record because of all the improvisation jazz requires. Many of the songs, some reaching as long as seven minutes, have to be recorded in one flawless take. However, in their self-titled album, CrossNote has succeeded in recording their take on familiar tunes as well as introducing their own originals at a high professional standard. For more info, you can visit them on Facebook at: www.facebook. com/CrossNote 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 47

Hotel Directory & News

HOTEL EVENTS AND NEWS WHETHER YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A COMFORTABLE PLACE TO LAY YOUR HEAD, SOMEWHERE TO ENJOY A GOOD MEAL OR THROW BACK A FEW COCKTAILS, HERE’S WHAT’S HAPPENING AT SOME OF OUR FAVORITE LOCAL HOTELS.

HOTEL NONGSHIM

23, Geumganggongwon-ro 20 beon-gil, Dongnae-gu, Busan ph. 051-550-2100 web. www.hotelnongshim.com

It’s strawberry season at the Nongshim Hotel, and The Lounge is celebrating with four delectable new menu items including a frappe, juice, fresh strawberries and ice cream. There’s also a combination of juice and dessert, all of which ranges from 14,000 to 18,000 won until the end of April.

PARK HYATT BUSAN

51, Marine City 1-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-990-1234 web.busan.park.hyatt.com

Enjoy double Gold Passport bonus points through the end of June at the recently opened Park Hyatt Busan, where you can also enjoy a wide variety of packages to suit your needs. Book in advance to earn double points, and to take advantage of all the opening promotions.

WESTIN CHOSUN 67, Dongbaek-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-749-7000 web. www.echosunhotel.com

The hotel’s long-standing Irish Pub, O’Kim’s, celebrates 100 years of Sapporo beer by holding a “Surprise Happy Hour” weekdays between 5 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. until the end of April. Enjoy a set of four pints and a special seafood dish for 65,000 won.

LOTTE HOTEL

772 Gayadae-ro, Jin-gu, Busan ph. 051-810-1000 web. www.lottehotelbusan.com

The Lotte Hotel in Seomyeon has three gift vouchers—between 10,000 and 100,000 won—available to purchase if you are looking for a gift for a loved one. They’re good for rooms, restaurants and bars, banquets and at the Lotte Duty Free shop. 48 HAPS_spring 2013

PARADISE HOTEL

1408-5, Jung Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan ph. 051-742-2121 web. www.paradisehotel.co.kr

Enjoy the seasonal taste of Yeongdeok crab on the Paradise’s third floor Japanese restaurant until the end of April. Chefs will be preparing varieties of the snow crab made famous by their annual festival in Gyeongsangbuk-do.

Accomodation Guide

HOTEL DIRECTORY

LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO STAY WHEN VISITING BUSAN? FIND IT WITH THE HAPS HOTEL DIRECTORY, YOUR LOCAL ENGLISH GUIDE TO ACCOMODATION IN THE CITY.

HAEUNDAE THE WESTIN CHOSUN tel: 82-51-749-7000 web: www.echosunhotel.com Do it right and crash in the same room George W. Bush did. PARADISE HOTEL tel: 82-51-742 2121 web: www.paradisehotel.co.kr On the water, with a casino, excellent spa and a pool. SEACLOUD HOTEL tel: 82-51-933-1000 web: www.seacloudhotel.com Luxury stay with great restaurants. Short walk to the beach. CENTUM HOTEL tel: 82-51-720-9000 web: www.centumhotel.co.kr Near Shinsegae and BEXCO. Good subway access. SUNSET HOTEL tel: 82-51-730-9900 web: www.sunsethotel.co.kr Seventy-two rooms with, according to the site, “individual design concepts”. NOVOTEL AMBASSADOR tel: 82-51-743-1234 web: www.novotelbusan.com On the beach. Great ocean view, Murpii Nightclub. GRAND HOTEL tel: 82-51-740-0610 web: www.grandhotel.co.kr One of the cheaper spots on the strip, but still at the beach. HOTEL ILLUA tel: 82-51-744-1331 web: www.hotelillua.com Lovely hotel with stunning views from its perch on Dalmaji Hill. HANWHA RESORT tel: 82-1588-2299 web: www.hanwharesort.co.kr Beautiful views of Oryukdo, the bridge and close to the beach. PARK HYATT BUSAN tel: 82-51-990-1234 web: busan.park.hyatt.com Five star quality hotel with stunning views and service.

SEOMYEON LOTTE HOTEL tel: 82-51-810-1000 web: www.lottehotelbusan.com Lotte runs a tight ship and it shows in the generous customer service here.

TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Across from Migliore, comfortable, clean and affordable. CROWN HOTEL tel: 82-51-635-1241 web: www.fnetravel.com/english/pusanhotels/crown.html Mid-range hotel decorated in Korean style, good for travellers.

GWANGALLI HOMERS HOTEL tel: 82-51-750-8000 web: www.homershotel.com Right on Gwangalli Beach amidst the myriad of cafes, bars and restaurants. AQUA PALACE tel: 82-51-756-0202 web: www.aquapalace.co.kr Beautiful view of the Diamond Bridge, right in the middle of the beach.

JUNG-GU COMMODORE HOTEL tel: 82-51-461-9703 web: www.commodore.co.kr Beautifully designed traditional hotel. Close proximity to Busan Station. BUSAN TOURIST HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4301 web: www.pusanhotel.co.kr Conveniently located next to the train station. Good for a cheap night’s rest. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com Affordably priced hotel, clean and 10 minutes away from the train station. PHOENIX HOTEL tel: 82-51-245-8061 web: www.hotelphoenix.net Highly trained staff, close to Nampodong. Popular with Japanese tourists. ELYSEE HOTEL tel: 82-51-241-4008 web: www.elyseemotel.com Affordable hotel with good amenities. Close to Nampo-dong.

BUSAN STATION GUKJE HOTEL tel: 82-51-642-1330 web: www.hotelkukje.com About 3 km away from the train station, close to Citizen’s Hall. TOYOKO INN tel: 82-51-442-1045 web: www.toyoko-inn.com

The second location, this one is a minute away from the train station.

OTHER AREAS PARAGON HOTEL [Sasang-gu] tel: 82-51-328-2001 web: www.hotelparagon.com Business comfort, with close proximity to Gimhae International Airport.

HI KOREA HOSTEL tel: 070-4409-3132 web: www.hikoreahostel.com email: hikoreahostel@gmail.com Your home away from home, Hi Korea Hostel offers you an affordable and comfortable accommodation just a stone’s throw away from Haeundae Beach.

BUSAN CENTRAL HOTEL [Yeonsan-dong] tel: 82-51- 866-6225 web: www.centralhotel.co.kr Adjacent to Yeonsan rotary, located 10 minutes away from City Hall. HOTEL NONG SHIM [Oncheonjeong] tel: 82-51-550-2100 web: www.hotelnongshim.com Great area around the hotel. Head north to PNU for original Busan nightlife.

BUDGET BUSAN YOUTH HOSTEL ARPINA [Haeundae] tel: 82-51-731-9800 web: www.arpina.co.kr Opened in 2004, a cheap place to stay for the night. Culture center inside. GOODSTAY THE PLANET GUESTHOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-2780-6350 web: www.earthlinghome.com Women-only dormitory across from Haeundae Beach in the Crystal Beach Office Tel. INDY HOUSE [Kyungsung Uni] tel: 82-70-8615-6442 Super cheap, dorm-style room right in the heart of Kyungsung. MARUB GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 010-6322-3194 web: www.marubee.com Well-placed near restaurants, commercial area in Haeundae. POBI GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-7990 web: www.guesthousekoreabusan.com Renovated guest houses three minutes from Haeundae Beach. SUM GUEST HOUSE tel: 070-8837-0700 web: www.sumhostel.com Renovated in 2011, they guarantee guests a pleasant stay whether in Busan for business or pleasure. HELLO GUEST HOUSE [Haeundae] tel: 051-746-8590 web: www.facebook.com/helloguesthousehello Friendly, clean and cozy atmosphere. Outdoor patio for your enjoyment. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 49

Nightlife & Dining Directory

GWANGALLI BEACH BIKINI [Lounge/Beer Bar] Spacious club with dancing and such. BEACHED CAFE AND SPORTS BAR [Kiwi Sports Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-924-9662 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ beached-cafe-sports-bar Recently renovated, this Kiwi-run sports bar has gained a huge expat following in the first year of existence for its spectacular bridge view, delicious menu and its wide array of Kiwi beer, the only place in the city to boast such a claim. Rugby is the sport of choice on the TV for the punters. BELLA CITTA [Italian] tel: 051-711-0010 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/bellacitta-italian Italian restaurant with an incredible interior, top notch menu and indoor garden seating. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am tel: 051-751-6631 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-gwangan The second of the Burger and Pasta shops around the city, this international eatery offers a great view of the bridge while you enjoy your day on the sand. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant in the middle of the main drag of Gwangalli Beach. FOUR SEASONS [Raw Fish Korean] English speaking owner, 2nd fl. Fish Market. FUZZY NAVEL- MILLAK [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-754-6349 web: www.fncompany.co.kr It has fabulous views of Gwangalli Beach. Facing the Diamond Bridge, come enjoy a drink and some tacos on our patio. Great staff serve fresh made Mexican cuisine and will mix up your favorite cocktail. FUZZY NAVEL- GWANGALLI [Bar] open: 7pm - 6am web: www.fncompany.co.kr Located on the ground floor, offering a great view of the beach and bridge. Friendly staff serve excellent cocktails at the vintage-looking bar. Make sure you take advantage of the outside seating in the summertime. GINZA [Japanese] tel: 051-751-7077 Pricey, but good quality food. GUESS WHO RESTAURANT [International] tel: 051-757-1213 Always busy with a nice patio deck. 50 HAPS_spring 2013

PARIS CAFE [International] Half coffee shop, half bar. Food is good too. PASTA E VINO [Italian] tel: 051-746-2500 Intimate beachside spot with good Italian cuisine. SAIGON PHO [Vietnamese] tel: 051-755-4205 Has been serving up Phở, the Vietnamese noodle soup since 1997. One of the few non-chain Vietnamese spots in town. Look for the big yellow sign, across the street from the Starbucks. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar Sharky’s brought “California cool” to Gwangalli this summer, as the newest Sharky’s opened to great reviews and a killer view of the bridge. Indulge in their ever-expanding menu while enjoying a cocktail in a cool, comfortable environment. Great deals on dinner specials nightly, and they have the best shuffleboard table in town. SHIM HAE RAW FISH MARKET [Korean] tel: 051-753-6868 Everything seafood, all in one place THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A summer staple on Gwanganlli Beach for the past couple of summers, Thursday Party has two locations situated next to each other on the east side of the beach. Both bars are similar to the Thursday Party city-wide theme, and offer a variety of American style pub grub to tempt your palate. WA BAR [Beer Bar] Wide selection of beer laid out for your choosing.

HAEUNDAE AN GA [Korean] tel: 051-742-7852 Very popular bbq meat restaurant in Haeundae. BILLIE JEAN [Lounge/Live Music] tel: 051-742-0297 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ billiejean A Haps favorite. Great decor. Ladies drink for free Thursday nights. BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 2am web: www.busanhaps.com/food/burgerand-pasta-haeundae Recently opened, this Western/ Korean fusion style restaurant has been packing them in since day one. Burgers, pasta and brunch are on the

menu in the stylishly decorated restaurant, where you can also imbibe yourself to a glass of wine, a cocktail or beer after your day on the beach. CHEOLMA HANWOO BULGOGI [Korean] tel: 051-709-4000 Bulgogi done at its best. CINE DE CHEF [Italian] tel: 051-745-2880 In Shinsegae, enjoy a good meal and a movie. CLUB ELUNE [Nightclub] Busan’s super club. A must see at least once. EL OLIVE [Italian] tel: 051-752-7300 Delicious Italian, close to Costco. FUZZY NAVEL [Food/Bar] open: 11am - 6am tel: 051-746-6439 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Great location set on two floors near the beach, other bars, and clubs. Amazing Mexican food is served from lunchtime until the early hours of the morning. Friendly staff and outside seating makes Fuzzy Navel a place to hit when the weather is good. GANGA [Indian] Expect to pay some good money, but it’s worth it. GECKOS [Pub] Beach front bar. Consistently good food. GEN SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-740-6630 Affordable sushi. Good stuff. HELLO THAI [Thai] tel: 051-731-5033 Good Thai food in the heart of Haeundae. HQ JANGSAN [American Sports Bar] Great bar to get your drink on with some wings. LOCANDA ROSSI [Italian] open: 12pm - 3pm, 6pm - 10pm, Closed Monday tel: 051-744-8807 web: www.locandarossi.com Located in the upscale Zenith Square Building in Marine City, Chef Federico Rossi, the ex-executive chef of the Paradise Hotel specializes in offering an authentic taste of Italy in a contemporary and casual trattoria style restaurant. Enjoy remarkably and inspired prepared dishes using the freshest ingredients with an extensive wine list. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-747-2979 web: www.lovinghut.co.kr All organic, all good. Veggie paradise. MAKTUM [Nightclub] If Elune is packed, head to Maktum.

MARIS [Buffet] tel: 051-704-8870 Great seafood buffet. Across from Primus in Jangsan. MIAMI 88 [Lounge Bar] Behind the BMW building. Good service. MURPII [Nightclub] In the Novotel. Dancing, drinking, business class. MY TABLE [Cafe] open: 11 am - 10:30 p.m. tel: 051-744-8989 web: www.cafemytable.com My Table is a great little spot in Marine City that offers excellent coffee and great food to go along with it, including several organic offerings, excellent sandwiches, great yogurts, the popular pumpkin soup or the sea mustard noodles. Make sure to check out the tiramisu made with 100% mascarpone. NAMASTE [Indian] tel: 051-746-1946 Indian fine dining. Good prices and great food. PHO KIM [Vietnamese] tel: 051-740-4868 Good food at a good price. Great soup, located in SFUNZ. ROCK N’ ROLL HOUSE [Casual Lounge] Great atmosphere. Two pool tables, great view. SHARKY’S [American Sports Bar] open: 6pm weekdays, 2pm weekends tel: 010-4038-2907 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ sharkys-bar This San Diego-inspired bar has become a fixture of the Haeundae Beach renowned for its Big Boy Burgers, Authentic Mexican and Killer Steaks. It’s a comfortable and unpretentious atmosphere that is family friendly but still caters to business travelers and locals. Located on the second floor of the Pale de CZ (right next to Paradise Hotel). It’s hard to find but worth it if you do! STARFACE [International Pub] tel: 051-742-0600 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ starface SUNTORY [Japanese] Food and drink in a classy setting. Bonzai! TAP AND TAPAS [Spanish] open: 3pm-5am tel: 051-746-6318 web: www.tapntapas.com Recently opened, Tap and Tapas serves up high quality, well-presented Spanish cuisine in a striking new setting in Haeundae. With an extensive menu of upscale cocktails and a tap room, it’s a great place to

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ALMOST FAMOUS [Dance/Techno] Funky atmosphere, great staff. AUSSIE BURGER [International] Burgers, fries and Aussie pies. AYUTA [Indian] Friendly staff, good food. BEIJING GO-CHI [Chinese] Great skewers, great food, cheap prices. BLUE MONKEY [Dance/Hip Hop] open: 7pm to late tel. 051-611-2888 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ blue-monkey With its illuminative and decorative style, Blue Monkey has impressive DJ sets on the weekend, and doubles as more of a lounge-style chill vibe during the weekdays. With an impressive menu and a booming sound system, ladies can also drink half price from 7 - 9 p.m. BON BON [Italian] tel: 051-621-0906 Great little spot next to Kyungsung U.

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meet for an informal meeting, or out for a night on the town to impress. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-740-6531 Good reliable chain in the Harbor Town Building. THE WOLFHOUND PUB [Irish Pub] open: 6pm - 2am weekdays, 11am - 2am weekends tel: 051-746-7940 web: www.wolfhoundpub.com No city in the world would be complete without an Irish pub, and the Wolf is Busan’s homage to Dublin. Wooden table seating with subtle lighting make this pub a relaxed place to grab a drink, watch some rugby and grab some sumptuous international cuisine. The “No Bullshit Pour” policy is a good indicator for the strength of their drinks. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] tel: 051-744-6621 open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party A staple of the Busan landscape, Thursday Party Haeundae offers a casual, yet comfortable option after a day at the beach. With a patio for outdoor sitting, this open-aired spacious pub brings the usual quality service the locals and expats have come to expect from the Thursday Party empire. U2 BAR [Lounge] Great place to chill, awesome service, a Haeundae institution.t VAN GOGH TERRACE [Italian] tel: 051-741-3767 Nice view of the water while you eat.

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Nightlife & Dining Directory BURGER AND PASTA [International] open: 11am - 11pm tel: 051-625-6651 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ burger-pasta With three locations around Busan, Burger and Pasta offer solid menu, and reasonable prices that make them a hit with young Koreans and expats. Set in the traditional Thursday Party wooden decor, they offer pasta, burgers and a brunch with a small patio to enjoy the street catwalk on sunny days. CAFE RADIO [Cafe] Great atmosphere. Relax with a book. CLUB FABRIC [Rock/Event] Live music, warm cozy decor. EVAS [International/Lounge] Been around awhile, and still packs them in.

FULLY BOOKED [Cafe/Bar] open: Tues-Thurs 7pm - 12am, Fri 7pm 1am, Sat 2pm - 2am, Sun 2pm - 12am tel. 070-8170-9628 web: www.busanhaps.com/fullybooked We are Busan’s first boutique bar run by expats. We serve great beer and wine at reasonable prices. We also serve 3 kinds of fresh panini: Caprese, Chicken Pesto, and Cuban Dijon. Furthermore, we provide a non-smoking environment for you to peruse our used-books or enjoy one of our many board games. HQ BAR [American/Sports Bar] tel. 010-2857-2367 Where the real mean go to drink and BS. KINO EYE [Dance Club] Dark atmosphere. Live music on occasion. MONK’S JAZZ CLUB [Jazz Club] Busan’s only jazz club. Tuesday nights are hot. OL’ 55 [Live Music/Event] tel: 051-627-5645 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ ol’55 Ol’55 is located in the heart of Kyungsung University and is noted for its Open Mic Wednesdays, which are known to host the best Korean and expat musicians in town. PAINTED CHAIR CAFE [Cafe/Gallery] The art, the atmosphere. Good place to chill. 52 HAPS_spring 2013

O’TACO [Mexican] open: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. daily tel: 051-627-8358 web: www.busanhaps.com/otaco Kyungsung’s original Mexican restaurant, O’Taco, has become a staple for those looking to get their Mexican food fix. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients, this must-try eatery has indoor and patio seating, as well as a daily lunch special and extensive menu at affordable prices. Open daily. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-621-4821 Good, affordable Indian food. THE SUSHI [Japanese] tel: 051-611-4043 Affordable, quality Japanese food. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party2 With ten Thursday Party’s around the city, it has become a staple for the young, hip Korean university crowd and expats alike. Beer pong, sports on TV and the free curry popcorn or salted spaghetti sticks are always in play, as is a busy crowd almost every evening of the week. VINYL UNDERGROUND [Nightclub/Event Bar] www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/vinyl Vinyl Underground is known as the spot for live music in the Kyungsung area.

PNU CROSSROADS [Live Music/Pub] open: 7pm-late tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ crossroads A small, but atmospheric watering hole in PNU, Crossroads has been a Busan institution amongst the expats for years. FARMERS BURGERS [American/Korean Fusion] People rave about it. Nominated in Best Burger. INTERPLAY [Live Music/Event] Live music, hit or miss if you catch on a good night.

LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] www.lovinghut.co.kr tel: 051-518-0115 MOO MONK [Live Music] Can catch some great Korean indie bands here. PHO [Vietnamese] Nice Vietnamese food in PNU. RED BOTTLE [Korean/Expat Bar] Good spot to get a drink, and play some darts. SHABANA [Indian] tel: 051-517-1947 Nice Indian food for cheap. SOULTRANE [Comedy/Event/Rock] tel: 051-515-1181 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ soul-trane One of the oldest expat bars in the city, the once foreigner oriented Soultrane nonetheless draws a healthy mix of locals, expats and tourists. THE BASEMENT [Korean/Expat Bar] web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ basement One of the most popular bars in the area. Always a great time, and anchors the PNU scene.

SEOMYEON BUFFALO CHICKEN [Chicken] tel: 051-805-3512 Good chicken chain with several interesting sauces. BUONA OVEN PIZZA [Italian] tel: 051-904-8239 Nice, oven-baked pizza and spaghetti. CLUB FIX [Nightclub] tel: 051-905-5777 web: www.clubfixkorea.info New super club. International DJs and dress code required. DIVISION 9 [Lounge] Pinball, darts, basketball, drinking and good fun. DRAGON DREAM (THE CAVE BAR) [Korean] tel: 051-646-5924 Very interesting decor with a nice selection of food. FOXY DANCE [Club] Dance club, usually packed on the weekend. FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON I [Food/Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-808-1007 web: www.fncompany.co.kr Check out the newly refurbished bar offering a variety of entertainment including, soft darts, pool, and table soccer. Awesome DJs and a wide floor make this place to be at night. Also, new to Seomyeon, the same amazing Mexican food as served at the Haeundae Fuzzy Navel is prepared in our large renovated kitchen.

FUZZY NAVEL- SEOMYEON Il [Bar] open: 5pm - 6am tel: 051-817-2242 web: www.fncompany.co.kr On the ground floor with a sliding window for when the weather is good, an excellent mix of Koreans and foreigners makes this a good place to make new friends. A comfortable atmosphere, where you will be looked after by the friendly staff, who will even give you a fireshow if you are celebrating a special occasion. LOVING HUT [Vegetarian] tel: 051-808-7718 www.lovinghut.co.kr ROCK N’ ROLL BAR [Rock] A true dive. Good atmosphere and pool and darts. T.G.I. FRIDAY’S [Chain] tel: 051-805-3164 Two locations in Seomyeon to choose from. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late tel: 051-818-6621 web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 You can expect more of the same from the Seomyeon Thursday Party, which caters to a young, eclectic mix of Koreans and expats. Nestled amongst a slew of bars and restaurants behind Judie’s Taewha, Thursday Party stands out for their unique charm, quality service and hip atmosphere amongst the Korean cool. VITO [Italian] tel: 051-806-5868 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/vito Fashioned in the tradition of the small Italian trattoria, Vito brings back a taste of the old country.

NAMPO ARUN THAI [Thai] open: 11a.m. - 10 p.m. tel: 051-908-9085 web: www.facebook.com/arunthai.kr The chefs at Arun Thai bring you succulently prepared authentic Thai dishes at very reasonable rates. This delightful restaurant, nestled on the second floor some 50m in the back alleyway next to KFC, is a great meeting place, whether for a light lunch or large-scale dinner in a stylish environment with friendly service. FARMERS BURGERS [International] Enjoy a quality, fresh-made burger and fries on the roof. KUHN [Asian] Hosts a variety of Southeast Asian dishes at good prices. THE PAN [Brunch] Nestled amongst a slew of outdoor terrace restaurants.

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GWANGAN BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Paris 02 Beach Bikini 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Beached 06 Sharky’s RESTAURANTS 01 Burger n’ Pasta 02 Bella Citta 03 Blue Saigon CAFES 01 Tom n’ Toms 02 Twosome Place 03 Starbucks BUSINESS/OTHER 01 Kai Surf Shop 02 New Philadelphia Seaside Church KYUNGSUNG BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Almost Famous 02 Club Realize 03 HQ 04 Blue Monkey 05 Eva’s 06 Ho Bar 07 Thursday Party 08 New Foxy 09 Vinyl Underground 10 Ol’55 11 Fabric 12 Fully Booked 13 Monk RESTAURANTS 01 O’Taco 02 Burger & Pasta 03 Outback 04 Okkudak CAFES 01 Starbucks 02 Tom n’ Toms 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Angel-In-Us

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AIR BUSAN tel: 051-974-8686 web: www.busanair.com ASIANA AIRLINES - DOMESTIC tel: 051-972-4004 web: www.flyasiana.com ASIANA AIRLINES - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-971-2626 web: www.flyasiana.com CEBU PACIFIC AIR tel: 051-462-0686 web: www.cebupacificair.com JEJU AIR tel: 070-7420-1502 web: www.jejuair.net KOREAN AIR - INTERNATIONAL tel: 051-970-3227 web: www.koreanair.com LUFTHANSA tel: 02-2019 0180 web: www.lufthansa.com KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES tel: 02-3483-1133 web: www.klm.com

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MAPS NEW LITTLE INDIA [Indian] open: 11am- 10pm tel: 051-245-4127 web: www.busanhaps.com/food/newlittle-india Situated on the second floor in the heart of Nampodong, New Little India specializes in the finest authentic Indian cuisine. The elegantlystyled interior and superior service complements the remarkably fresh ingredients on their vast menu. A great destination for those looking to enjoy a fine meal at affordable prices and a quiet ambiance. THURSDAY PARTY [Korean/Expat Bar] open: 6pm - late web: www.busanhaps.com/nightlife/ thursday-party-1 The Thursday Party Nampo store offers a slightly varied atmosphere than the others around the city, though by no means is it less exciting. A slightly more mixed crowd of expats and young Koreans is to be expected, as well as the great service that TP has become renowned for.

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Services Directory

BUSINESS ORGANIZATIONS AMCHAM #4501, Trade Tower 159-1, Samsungdong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul tel: 02-564-2040 web: www.amchamkorea.org An independent association of American and international businesses, the role of the American Chamber of Commerce is to promote business and trade between the United States and Korea. ECCK 102-2903 WBC The Palace 1523, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-959-9695 web: www.ecck.eu The European Chamber of Commerce aims to provide an effective network of business associates together with discussion forums and seminars on how to do business in Korea, as well as an array of social networking events.

EDUCATION FOREIGN SCHOOLS BUSAN FOREIGN SCHOOL 1366-3 Jwa-dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-747-7199 web: www.busanforeignschool.org BUSAN JAPANESE SCHOOL 173-8 Millak-dong, Suyoung-gu tel: 051-753-4166 web: user.chollian.net/~pusjpnsc BUSAN OVERSEAS CHINESE KINDERGARTEN 548-1 Choryang-dong, Dong-gu tel: 051-468-2845 web: kbces.com.ne.kr INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BUSAN 798 Nae-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun tel: 051-742-3332 web: www.bifskorea.org

TESOL TRAINING KOTESOL Email: bgkotesol@gmail.com Facebook: Busan-Gyeongnam KOTESOL Chapter TESOL ALLIANCE tel: 051-818-0502 web: www.tesolalliance.com

KOREAN LESSONS BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr email: busanglobalcenter@gmail.com KLIFF tel: 051-513-0131 web: www.kliff.co.kr 54 HAPS_spring 2013

email: jennakang@hanmail.net PNU LANGUAGE EDUCATION CENTER tel: 051-510-1983 web: www.ili.pusan.ac.kr email: bangjy77@pusan.ac.kr

INFORMATION EXPAT ASSISTANCE CALL CENTER FOR FOREIGN RESIDENTS IN BUSAN tel: 1577-7716 FREE TRANSLATION SERVICE (BBB) tel: 1588-5644 MULTICULTURAL FAMILY SUPPORT CENTER tel: 1577-5432

tel: 051-600-4741

HERBAL CLINICS

DONGEUI UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 397-3, Bujeon-1 dong, Busanjin-gu tel: 051-803-5430 GOOD SAMSUN HANBANG 1162-2, Jurye-dong, Sasang-gu tel: 051-325-0300

OPHTHALMOLOGY

HAEUNDAE HYOSUNG CITY HOSPITAL 1094-2, Jaesong 1-dong tel: 051-709-3000 web: www.hshos.com INJE UNIV. HAEUNDAE PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-797-0100 web: www.paik.ac.kr/Haeundae

INFORMATION CENTERS TOURIST INFORMATION SERVICE tel: 1330 BEXCO TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-740-7300 BUSAN GLOBAL CENTER tel: 1577-7716 BUSAN INT’L PASSENGER TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-465-3471 BUSAN STATION TOUR INFORMATION tel: 051-441-6565 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (DOMESTIC) tel: 051-973-4607 GIMHAE INT’L AIRPORT TOUR INFORMATION (INTERNATIONAL) tel: 051-973-2800 HAEUNDAE TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-749-5700 INTERNATIONAL FERRY INFORMATION CENTER tel: 051-465-3471 NOPODONG BUS TERMINAL TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-508-9400 UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY TOURIST INFORMATION tel: 051-625-1608

MEDICAL HEALTH CENTERS DONGNAE HEALTH CENTER 702-54, Myeongryun-2 dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 051-555-4000 HAEUNDAE HEALTH CENTER 1339, Jwa-2 dong, Haeundae-gu tel: 051-746-4000 JUNG-GU HEALTH CENTER 1 Ga 1, Daecheong-dong, Jung-gu

web: www.demc.kr DONGNAE BONG SENG HOSPITAL 766, Anlak 1-dong tel: 051-531-6000 web: www.bongseng.com DONGRAE WOORIDUL HOSPITAL 205-10, Nakmin-dong tel: 051-559-5000 web: www.dongrae.wooridul.co.kr INJE UNIVERSITY BUSAN PAIK HOSPITAL 1435, Jwa-dong tel: 051-890-6114

JUNG-GU HAEYANG HOSPITAL 80-8 Jungang-dong 4-ga tel: 051-469-4456 web: www.haeyang.net MARYKNOLL MEDICAL CENTER 12, Daecheong-dong 4-ga tel: 051-465-8801 web: www.maryknoll.co.kr

NAM-GU

SANTA OPTICAL open: Daily 10 a.m ~ 9 : 30 p.m tel. 051-704-1771 web:www.facebook.com/SantaOptic A short distance from Jangsan station, Santa Optical offers almost every available option to make sure you get the best eyewear. Prescription eyeglasses, sunglasses, progressive lenses, transition lenses, RGP hard contact lenses and contact lenses are all available. Join us on Facebook and receive five percent off.

HOSPITALS BUK-GU/DONGNAE BUMIN HOSPITAL 380-4, Deokcheon 1-dong tel: 051-330-3000 web: www.buminhos.co.kr DONG EUI MEDICAL CENTER San 45-1, Yangjeong 2-dong tel: 051-867-5101

BUSAN ST. MARY'S MEDICAL CENTER 538-41, Yongho 4-dong tel: 051-933-7114 web: www.bsm.or.kr

SEO-GU DONG-A UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER 3-ga, #1 Dongdaeshin-dong tel: 051-240-2400 web: www.damc.or.kr PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL 10, Ami-dong 1-ga tel: 051-254-0171 web: www.pnug.co.kr

SUYEONG BUSAN CENTUM HOSPITAL 1077-1, Gwangan 3-dong tel: 051-760-5000 web: www.centumhospital.com BUSAN HANNAH WOMAN'S HOSPITAL 304, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-2300 web: www.hannah4u.co.kr

HAPS

MAPS LEGEND

Jungkangdae Road

Seomyeon Subway Stn.

Kayodae Road

Jungang-dong Sub. 3

01 02

Seomyeon Road

Lotte Dept. Store

Lotte Hotel & Seven Luck Casino

Lotte Dept. Store

NAMPO-DONG

LEGEND

. g Sub

o-don 3 1

Yongdusan Park

03 01

Daegaksa Temple

Tourist

05 03 04 Information 02

Jalgalchi Fish Market

rgroun

Busan Modern History Museum

d Shoppin g Mall

Busan Tower

o Unde

Namp

NAMPO-DONG RESTAURANTS 01 Arun Thai 02 KFC 03 The Pan 04 The Pho 05 New Little India 06 Farmers Burgers 07 McDonalds CAFES 01 Caffe Bene 02 Starbucks 03 Angel-In-Us 04 Holly’s 05 The Cafe 06 Caffe Bene

Taewha 03 Judie’s Dept. Store 01

4 2

Namp

SEOMYEON CLUBS 01 Fix 02 Foxy BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Rock n’ Roll 02 Spot 03 Thursday Party 04 Fuzzy Navel 05 Fuzzy Navel II RESTAURANTS 01 Vito 02 TGI Friday’s CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 03 Twosome Place 04 Tom n’ Toms BUSINESS 01 Kangs Dental 02 Apple Store

Cafe

02 04

8 10

Restaurant

Sojeon Road 12

Bar/Pub/Lounge

GIFT MINISTRY Myung-nyun-dong, Dongnae-gu tel: 010-7999-8644 web: www.tinyurl.com/lifeisagift Services: Saturdays,10:30 a.m. HONGBEOPSA TEMPLE Dugu-dong, #1220-1, Guemjeong-gu tel: 010-8771-6265

Dongcheon Road

Club

AL-FATIH MASJID MOSQUE Namsan-dong, #30-1 Guemjeong-gu tel: 051-518-9991 web: www.busanislam.or.kr Services: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily

Dongcheon Road

Business

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY CHURCH Minerva Hall, Pusan University of Foreign Studies tel: 010-8326-1985 web: www.iccbusan.org Services: Sundays, 10:30 a.m. ICC is a close-knit community church that is committed to sharing the incredible good news of grace and forgiveness through Jesus Christ. ICC is developing a community of Christ-followers from all nations. Visit any Sunday at 10:30 am or contact us for more info! www.iccbusan.org 010-8326-1985

Jungang Middle School

Migliore Fashion Mall

Cosmetic Surgery Street

RELIGIOUS SERVICES

SEOMYEON Sojeon Road

GOOD GANGAN HOSPITAL 40-1, 41-9, Namcheon-dong tel: 051-625-0900 web: www.gang-an.or.kr

PIFF Squaure

Gukje Market

Restaurant Cafe

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Services Directory New Philadelphia is a diverse community of believers who love Jesus Christ and love people. Our church is full of people who live by faith and we are committed to helping individuals reach their full potential and experience the perfect will of God for their lives! HOSANNA CHURCH Myeongji-dong, #3245-5 Gangseo-gu, tel: 051-209-0191 web: www.him-busan.blogspot.com Services: Sundays, 12:30 p.m.

MUSEUMS

NEW PHILADELPHIA CHURCH Gwangalli Beach, Marine Building 8th fl Behind Twosome Place near Sharkyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tel: (051) 932-6832 or (010) 2970-5594 web: www.newphilly.cc Service: Sunday, 2:30 pm

BUSAN MUSEUM OF ART 40, Apec-ro, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-740-2602 web: www.art.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MODERN HISTORY MUSEUM 104, Daechung-ro, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-253-3845 web: www.modern.busan.go.kr Opening Hours - 09:00 ~ 18:00 Closed - Jan.1, Every First Monday Admission Fee - Free BUSAN MUSEUM 63, UN Peace-ro, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-610-7111

web: www.museum.busan.go.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 20:00 Closed - Jan. 1, Every First Monday Admission fee - Free BUSAN UN MEMORIAL CEMETERY AND PARK 779, Daeyon 4 dong, Nam-gu, Busan tel: 051-625-0625 web: www.unmck.or.kr Hours of operation - 09:00 ~ 17:00 Open Year Round Admission fee - Free

SHOPPING DEPT. STORES LOTTE DEPT. STORE www.lotteshopping.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 FOUR LOCATIONS CENTUM CITY 1496, U Dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 051-730-2500 DONGNAE 502-3, Oncheonjeong, Dongnae-gu, Busan tel: 051-605-2500 GWANGBOK 20-1, 7 ga, Jung-ang Dong, Jung-gu, Busan tel: 051-678-2500

SEOMYEON Bujeondong, Busan-jingu, Busan tel: 051-810-2500 HYUNDAI DEPT. STORE 62-5, Beomil-dong, Dong-gu, Busan tel: 051-667-2233 Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00 SHINSEGAE DEPT. STORE (CENTUM CITY) 1495 Wu-dong, Haeundae-gu, Busan tel: 1588-1234 web: www.english.shinsegae.com Open: 10:30 ~ 20:00

CLOTHING/SPORTS KAI SURF SHOP 183-11 Gwangan-dong, Suyeong-gu tel: 051-753-2746

SOCIAL/NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATIONS

BUSAN BANDITS RUGBY Facebook Group: Busan Bandits BUSAN BOOK SWAP Facebook Group: Busan Book Swap BUSAN BOWLING LEAGUE Contact: David Alderman tel: 010.7919.1223 Facebook Group: Busan Bowling League

Humetro Call Center Lost & Found Center

56 HAPS_spring 2013

Seomyeon Stn.

GROCERIES COSTCO web: www.costco.co.kr E-MART web: www.emart.com HOMEPLUS web: www.homeplus.co.kr MEGAMART web: www.megamart.co.kr

INTERNET GROCERIES EZSHOP KOREA web: www.ezshopkorea.com FATBAG web: www.fatbag.co.kr IHERB web: www.iherb.com INDIAN SHOP web: www.indianshopkorea.com NICE MARKET web: www.nicemarket.net

FAST FOOD

SURELY, WE MISSED A FEW SPOTS! IF IT’S NOT ON THE MAP, LET US KNOW! CONTACT: BUSANHAPS@GMAIL.COM

Business

PNU

Club

LEGEND

[PUSAN NATIONAL UNIVERSITY] 01

Bar/Pub/Lounge Restaurant

Cafe

Good Plus

08 02

PNU Main Gate

Busan Bank Pusan National Uni. Road

02 04 03 02

01 3

PNU BARS/PUBS/LOUNGES 01 Thirsty Moose 02 Wa Bar 03 Basement 04 Crossroads 04 Soultrane 05 Red Bottle 06 Interplay 07 Moo Monk 08 Bling RESTAURANTS 01 Won Chon 02 The Box 03 Tajmahal CAFES 01 Angel-In-Us 02 Charlie Brown 03 Twosome Place 04 Starbucks 05 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

PNU Subway Stn

MCDONALDS tel: 1600-5252 web: www.mcdonalds.co.kr LOTTERIA tel: 1600-9999 web: www.lotteria.com BURGER KING No delivery web: www.burgerking.co.kr KFC No delivery web: www.kfckorea.com

PIZZA DOMINOS tel: 1577-3082 web: www.dominos.co.kr PAPA JOHN’S tel: 1577-8080 web: www.pji.co.kr PIZZA HUT tel: 1588-5588 web: www.pizzahut.co.kr MR. PIZZA tel: 1577-0077 www.mrpizza.co.kr

EPIK TEACHERS IN BUSAN Facebook Group: Busan EPIK EXPAT SAILING CLUB Contact: Mark Chi email: Koreasailing@gmail.com web: www.busansailing.com LAOCHRA BUSAN GAELIC ATHLETIC ASSOCIATION CLUB Contact: Peter Bonner email: busangaa@gmail.com Facebook Group: Laochra Busan Members

ong Roa

BTC FOOTBALL FB Group: Busan Transportation Corporation Supporters Fanpage

BASKIN ROBBINS No delivery web: www.baskinrobbins.co.kr

Geumje

ULTIMATE FRISBEE LEAGUE Email: ch.pyles@gmail.com

DUNKIN DONUTS No delivery web: www.dunkindonuts.co.kr

BUSAN FRIENDSHIP GROUP www.meetup.com/Pusans

QUIZNOS No delivery web: www.quiznos.co.kr

Geumjeong Ro

BUSAN FOUNDATION FOR INTERNATIONAL ACTIVITIES tel: 051-668-7900 web: www.bfia.or.kr

2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 57

The Last Word

THARP ON: MONEY

BY CHRIS THARP ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL ROY

THARP TALKS ABOUT CASH, MOOLA, DOUGH, FUN TICKETS, OR THE OTHERWISE KNOWN GLORIOUS THING CALLED “MONEY”.

et’s start with the obvious: being poor sucks. in the school, but as they paid their tuition in full, the adminThere’s nothing fun about it. A certain amount istration didn’t seem to mind. It goes without saying that I of poverty may be slightly romantic for say, six despised them. months in your early 20s, but it wears thin quickly. These rich kids invariably dined on overpriced sandwichAny bohemian charm it once had transforms into a es from the school’s expensive little café, while I glared and parasitic drain, and you quickly realize how essential money is grumbled, spooning cold refried beans into my mouth straight to do pretty much anything you want in this world. from the can and plotting their deaths. I came to know hunger I know all this from experience, though you wouldn’t know well during those years. Often, instead of eating, I smoked my it from my childhood. I grew up in solidly middle class USA. lunch in the form of a hand-rolled cigarette. It may have been We had it all—a big house, a drivepretentious, but at least it kept me way full of (used) cars, a kitchen skinny; as I was in art school, both GRANTED, WE’RE NOT ALL bursting with pork chops, blueberwere required. LIVING IN AN EGALITARIAN ry muffins, and boxes of Captain I continued this life of the “starvUTOPIA HERE. I’VE MET Crunch cereal, a John Deere riding ing artist” for an embarrassingly lawn mower, and even a Colecovilong time after college, until I found ENGINEERS AND SHOE sion (cutting edge in ’83). Up until myself over 30 and still broke, with DESIGNERS WHO FART MORE my late teens, I took the largess a credit rating that would make of Cold War America for granted: MONEY THAN I MAKE IN A YEAR. Greece blush. So I upped and Such was our birthright, we were moved to Korea, where, for the taught. You can imagine my horror as I then watched my par- first time in my life, I could pay my bills, see the doctor, travel ents lose it all and slide into the inescapable morass of the and still have enough left over to eat and drink my way into a working poor. daily Bacchanal stupor. Is it a wonder that, after eight years, I “It’s not a trailer!” I’d later say, correcting my friends, mid- haven’t even thought about leaving? sentence. “It’s a mobile home—a double wide at that.” Korea is an interesting place, in that almost all of us Western My first brush with real rich people came straight after high expats have more than enough money. This is especially true school, when cash was especially scarce. With the help of for the ESL crowd, where we all have similar jobs and earn generous scholarships, grants, and an avalanche of student roughly the same amount. It’s like living in some kind of socialloans, I attended a very snooty and expensive arts college. ist utopia. We’re all taken care of. When I call my friends and Some of my fellow students hailed from the true upper crust ask them to join me for grilled meat or sushi, at no time do I and deigned to mix with us hoi polloi in the name of “self- ever question whether or not they can afford it. Of course they expression”. They drove convertibles, wore clothes without can. We ALL can. holes, and were usually among the most talentless students Ah, Korea: The Great Expat Equalizer. 58 HAPS_spring 2013

Advertorial

Granted, we’re not all living in an egalitarian utopia here. I’ve met engineers and shoe designers who fart more money than I make in a year. Same goes for some of the military guys. And not all ESL folks keep their heads above the current, either. Some of us ass-out and are sent packing, penniless (see: The Asia Fail), while a few others blow through their cash at the casinos and juicy bars and are constantly borrowing from flush friends. Is there anything more pathetic than a perpetually broke English teacher? During my tenure on the peninsula, I’ve lived it up mightily and, sadly, my bank account reflects it. But others are more careful with their cash and manage to save tens of millions won a year. Some people leave Korea with serious stacks of dough and go home to buy houses, start businesses, and develop serious coke habits. Real saving can be done, but at what cost to basic fun and decency? This brings to mind my Canadian brothers and sisters, who seem to have frugality hardwired into their DNA. Working a post-dinner check with a group of Canucks is like pouring over a test problem with advanced calculus students. Calculators are brandished, who-ate-and-drank-how much-of-what is argued and changed is produced to the 10-won coin. Some may take umbrage with me pointing this out, but perhaps our northern neighbors’ financial acumen is the reason their economy thrives while that of the USA continues to burn and collapse like a barn fire. But there is a limit, no matter what the nationality. I’ve met some cheap-ass expats here, but none so much as the people who believe that they are entitled to money for every one of their possessions when they move or leave Korea for home. We’ve all seen these guys sell their worthless wares on Koreabridge, trying to get cash for used slacks, old tennis shoes, plastic hangers, wrinkled magazines, half-dead houseplants, out-of-date guidebooks, and even those free wooden chopsticks that come with every order from Kimbap Cheongook. Note to such folks: Go ahead and give some stuff away. People will appreciate it. Besides, no one wants to travel across town to Hadan to pay 5,000 won for your nasty old dish towel, tightwad. 2013 spring_ busanhaps.com 59

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