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Winter 2010: Go to the Snow with the Busan Haps Ski Guide
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Issue 4 December/January 2009/10
Inside
Kristmas in Korea
The Year in Review He’s Got Games Survival Korean
By Chris Tharp
Film Review Lady Goodman
Having a Kid Here
The Godfather Food: Wazwan
By Craig White
Kim Chi
Is it really all that? By Brian Deutsch
Happy 2010!
www.busanhaps.com
Contents
Features Kristmas in Korea He’s Got Games Kim Chi, Kim Chi Oh Baby! Interview:The Godfather The Year in Review
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Guides Bars Sights to See 2010: Skiing in the ROK Restaurants Sonic Boom Schedule
Reviews
Music: Lady Goodman Food: Wazwan Film
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Regulars
December/January 2009/10
Events Short Stuff Survival Korean Subway Map Managing Editor: Bobby McGill Director of Marketing: Michael Schneider Copy Editor: Jeff Liebsch Contributing Writers: Brian Deutsch Craig White Jacob Worrel Chris Tharp Lynsey Bolin Jen Sotham Ben May Gus Swanda Photography: Robert S. Digby Nichole Blair Illustration: Kang Na Young Xing Shiqi Painting: Rosie Scandurra Layout and Design: Bmc Public Relations: Roxy Kim Submissions: info@busanhaps.com For Advertising: mikey.busanhaps@gmail.com
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Kristmas in Korea
By Christmas Tharp
Christmas is often the toughest day of the year for expats. Even the most hardened, kimchi-gargling veterans among us feel a true sense of isolation when the day rolls around.
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t’s late morning, early winter. You wake up alone to a frigid one room apartment. Groggy. Your head throbs from the nine pints of Cass you consumed the night before. As you stagger out of your undersized bed, you take in the view from your tenth-floor window. The city is splayed out in drab shades of brown and grey - a seemingly endless panorama of shoebox-like apartment blocks, Orwellian middle schools, and neon-crossed church steeples. You turn for a look back into your room, the wall calendar catches your eye. You cast your eyes to the date: December 25th. You resist the urge to fling yourself from the window. Welcome to Christmas in Korea. Christmas is often the toughest day of the year for expats. Even the most hardened, kimchi-gargling veterans among us feel a true sense of isolation when the day rolls around. Christmas reminds us that we really are on the other side of the globe, separated from our families by landmasses, immense oceans and late night drunken dials overseas. It tells us that despite our adventurous spirits, we are alone over here, and that our globe-trotting lifestyles don’t come without cost. You’re forgiven if you are like the rest of us this time of year --just a bit down. If you’re not homesick on Christmas, you may actually be a reptile. For many Koreans, Christmas is just another official holiday, that happy red-number on the calendar and yet it is wholly embraced by the country’s sizable Christian population. Decorations adorn the department stores, holi-
day music is piped in, and even some gifts are exchanged (Spam sets, anyone?). But it just doesn’t feel the same. Christmas here is watered down and feels almost like a token holiday – a halfhearted nod to a Western tradition that’s not quite understood. Many Koreans view Christmas day as a “couples’ holiday.” Rather than spend time with their families, young Koreans go to dinner and movies with their sweethearts. Occupancy rates for the nation’s love motels are said to explode on Christmas Day. One reason why Korean Christmas loses its punch is because only the one day is celebrated. In Western countries, Christmas Day is just the apex of a month-pluslong festival that starts in late November (the day after Thanksgiving in The States) and ends on New Year’s Day. During that time, you might go to several house parties, along with concerts, movies, performances, and religious services. Even the act of shopping has a celebratory air. And despite its holy trappings, believers and non-believers alike embrace the Christmas spirit, which is really a way of warding of the bleakness of winter’s onset with warmth, joy and the gift of love. Yes, most of us are alone over here, far from old friends and loved-ones. But there is absolutely no reason to spend all of your holiday time in a tear-stained marathon call to your family on Skype. Take a deep breath, step away from the window, and beat back that expat existential Christmas gloom.
GET YOUR FEED ON! What better way to ring in the big C than by stuffing your face? There are many excellent opportunities for holiday gluttony here in Busan. Here are a few of the best: •The Seamen’s Club will be doing a full Christmas buffet this year with all the trimmings you know and love for 22,500 won. IMPORTANT! The Seamen’s Club at Pier 3 is CLOSED. This dinner is at the other Seamen’s Club at Pier 8. Call 051-462-8029 for more info. •The Novotel Ambassador in Haeundae has the best buffet in town. Not only do they have Christmas staples such as turkey, ham, and lamb, but there’s an enormous array of seafood and world cuisine. Pricey, at 50,000KRW a head, but well worth it. Make sure you book ahead. •The Sunset Lounge is offering a fully catered Christmas dinner this year. 051-742-2925 •HQ Bar will be hosting a turkey dinner on Christmas day, for 10,000 won a head. Call Johnny Jung at 010-9323-5955 for details HAVE A PARTY! Whether you live in a hagwon-supplied oneroom hovel or a palace with more pyeong than Koreans named “Park,” why not open your doors and warm the place up with a good ol’ fashioned holiday soiree? Cook up some grub, or - better yet - make it a potluck. Christmas parties do wonders to counteract the holiday urge to walk into the East Sea. GO SEE LIVING HUMANS PERFORM! There are plenty of Christmas performances in and around Busan to get you in the festive mood. From plays and dance recitals to classical and jazz concerts, there’s more “high culture” going on here than you might be aware of. Get out and see some!
GET DRUNK! Christmas without booze is like Halloween without costumes. And while most of us expats (or our Korean brethren for that matter) need no excuse to abuse our livers even more than we already do, Christmas is one of my personal favorite days to savor good liquor. It is Christmas, so why not treat your self? Splurge on some expensive French or Italian wine; sip expertly brewed imported beer; knock off a bottle of single-malt Scotch and feel the world become a happier place, if only until you wet your pants and pass out in front of your apartment door. GAMBLE! I come from a loud, boisterous family who used to always bust out some cards at family gatherings, so I honor that tradition each year by heading to the casino and playing a few hands. There are two casinos in Busan (The Paradise in Haeundae and the Seven Luck in Seomyeon) that are more than willing to separate you from your money. Just make sure to go with friends and bring a set amount of cash. Leave the ATM card at home. Who knows, you might get lucky? People do sometimes win. GET YOUR SINNIN’ SELF TO CHURCH! As you’ve probably noticed, there is no shortage of houses of worship here in Busan. All of them have Christmas services, and there are even a few in English. Even a non-Christian can find enjoyment in the beauty and spectacle of a Christmas Eve Mass. And after all the eating, drinking, and gambling, our souls could more than likely use a little absolution. Santa Tharp can be reached through his blog at www. tharp42.livejournal.com
Busan Haps 3
He's Got Games By Lynsey Bolin
Question: Which Busanite created his own interactive trivia game to enjoy with a cold beer? Answer: Read on
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t’s Thursday night at the HQ Bar in the Kyungsung area and Antony Jackson is setting up for a night of trivia. There will be no paper Q&A cards, no dice to roll, no board to move around – just your eyes peeled to the TV on the wall, remote clicker in one hand and a cocktail in the other. It’s called Isis eTriv, short for --you guessed it-- electronic trivia, and Jackson is the man behind it. If you’ve got the brain, he’s got the game. A Canadian expat who has called Korea home for the last ten years, Jackson realized that there are times when people want to just go to the bar for a couple of drinks and could do without hearing about someone’s day at the hagwon. “I think there are a lot of times where you get off work and you just want to have a beer and you don’t want to really talk with anybody or you haven’t got time to hook up with your friends or whatever.” Funny he should say that. Once a game gets going between friends or strangers, the words generally tend to flow without end. The beauty in Jackson’s Isis is its simplicity. Not to be confused with other weekly quizzes that have guest hosts and require a full on team to answer questions, Isis is fully automated and allows up to 20 individual players a chance to test their real or fake college degree against other trivia enthusiasts. And players can jump in or out at anytime. Questions range from general knowledge to music to logic to, well… anybody’s guess. Although anyone can take their best shot, there is a requisite knowledge of world events and Western pop culture. To date, Jackson has over 8000 questions and adds more all the time. The intent is to build a large enough databank to allow 52 weeks’ worth of trivia.
While most of the questions spring from Jackson’s own creativity and research, he welcomes those who would like to create their own questions to add to the game. For now, Jackson seems readily apt to handle the stockpile himself. “I always keep a note pad with me in case I get an idea. One question seems to lead to a dozen.” The basics of the game are relatively simple: there are four 25 minute sections a night with a five minute break in between. Each game is made up of three rounds. The first two rounds have 15 questions: Round 1 = 100 points/question; Round 2 = 200 points/ question. The final ‘tie-breaking’ round has only one 500 point question. Sounds simple enough, right? Just head on down and bathe in the adoration of standers by. Actually, according to Jackson, who is also a teacher, there is a hitch. “It’s important to level the field by throwing in a couple of very difficult questions that nobody is expected to get correct. Not unlike marking for my students. 100% is an imaginary number that nobody should achieve. As of yet, nobody’s come close to getting 100%. My system tracks the results, so I can look at the database and analyze the answers afterwards to assess the difficulty and read whether or not I need to dummy-down the quizzes or make them harder. The highest percentage is 72% -- which is pretty good considering it’s very general, across the board knowledge and most people are specialized in one area of knowledge.” As to the future of Isis, Jackson is gunning for a bigger market. “I plan to approach all of the Western bars across the country,” said Jackson. “Right now I’m networking and finding out names of owners managers and contact numbers. After that we will get it all packaged together and ready to go and start doing demos.” Check out Isis every Thursday @ HQ Bar. If you want to learn more about Isis: isis_etriv@yahoo.com Busan Haps 5
“We are all of us in Haeundae
Kyung Sung
Blowfish - A short taxi ride from Jangsan Subway Station to Song Jeong Beach lands you at the hippest beach side bar in Korea. As the motto says “Thailand in the Front, Afghanistan in the Back.” Open 366 days a year.
HQ - Very cool place to chill out. Open Air, with tables in the window. Home to Tom’s great pot roast and Johhny’s electrifying dance moves. Map: page 28
Miami 88 – Across from Haeundae Beach. Open air bar with large patio. Hip-Hop Music Nightly. Loads of Import Beers on Tap and quality western food. Located right behind the new BMW building. 051-746-6488 24/7 Bar - A swank new spot in Haeundae that just opened but is already pulling a good crowd. A TV bank like you’ve never seen. See map on page 4. Fuzzy Navel – Nightly fire shows. Isn’t that enough? Good selection of drinks and friendly staff. Be careful when asking the bartender for “a light,” you could get far more than you bargained for. Murpii Bar – On the beach at Novotel. Swank bar. Good spot to dance dance dance. 051-743-1234 U2 Bar – Dance Bar/Live Bands. Darts. One of the longest running expat bars in Busan Across from the Novotel. Ask for “Joo.” Sunset Lounge – Named as one of the top 10 bars in Korea by that other magazine in Seoul, Sunset sports five flat screens inside. Dinner parties, wine parties and weekly special events. 051-742-2925 www.busanhaps.com/sunset
Club Fabric - Dance Club with visiting DJ’s from all over the world. If you are looking to get your serious dance on this is your spot. Awesome decor. Foxy - Same owner as Fabric. Great spot for dancing and very good drink prices. Nice-uh. Thursday Party – Stylish, open air bar with outside seating and a good view of the Kyung Sung weekend night parade. Jacky has found the right mix for drinking and relaxing. Nice-uh. New York 88 - Great selection of import beers and cocktails. Dart board, great music including Hip-Hop. They have a wide selection of beers and cocktails, buy 4 get one for free. 051-622-6988 Metro Dart Bar – Big bar with lots of good seating for large parties. Home to the best dart players in Busan. Stick to the pool table if you are weary. Food nightly and a good staff. 010-9323-5955 Ghetto – Urban chic. Very popular with the Korean youth, but frequented by foreigners. 010-4588-4697 Ol’55 – A music bar with character to spare. Live music on the weekends from some of Busan’s best musicians. Pool table. They have open mic on Wednesdays.
Thursday Party – Great atmosphere, darts and a wide selection of beer. Jangsan: 051-703-6621. By the beach: 051-744-6621
Vinyl - One of the longest running bars in Busan. A Large dance floor high ceilings, nice stage. Live music on weekends. Look for Andy Warhol’s big yellow banana. 051-628-0223
Starface – On Dalmaji Hill. All you can drink 15,000 Friday and Saturday. Awesome house band. They’ve got good grub. 051-742-0600
Eva’s – Open air bar. Happy hour 1012pm. Good menu. Eva is hella cute when she wears her glasses. Across from HQ.
Club Elune - Busan’s hippest place to dance. On any night there could be as many as 3000 people in this spacious club. They have a dress code, so leave the flip-flops at home.
Kino Eye- Just look for the evil looking rabbit and you are there. Dark and chill.
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For more listings visit busanhaps.com
the gutter. But some of us are looking at the stars.” ~Oscar Wilde
Seomyeon
O’Brien’s - Just past Seomeyeon on the #2 subway line, Gaya station. Good drink specials. Ask for Pat, give him a big hug and let him kiss your girlfriend on the lips. 051-994-6541 Foxy - Two story dance club in the heart of Seomeyeon. Packed during the weekends. There is a private room you can rent with friends so you have access to the dance floor and still escape the mass. Rock n’ Roll Bar - Look for the large sign with Kurt Cobain down the small street perpendicular to Lotte Hotel. 3000 KRW cocktails, live music and a cooldive atmosphere. 051-818-3425 Guri Bar - Happening, divey bar behind Lotte Hotel. Thursday Party - Good selection of drafts and cocktails. Busy on the weekends. Cozy atmosphere, great staff. Can’t go wrong with that. 051-818-6621
PNU Area
Soultrane – One of the area’s oldest and most well known foreign bars. In the basement beneath Crossroads. The Basement – One of the most popular bars in Busan for the past several years. Live music, pool, miniature basketball, hookahs and an excellent staff. Open Mic Tues, German-Reggae on Wed. Live music on Sat. Rub Matt’s head, he loves it. Crossroads – Open Mic on Thurs. Great music. 051-515-1181. Right in the heart of the PNU district. Interplay – Live music, Jazz, Korean Indie. Open Mic Thurs. 011873-2200 Monks Bar - Good spot for Korean indie bands. Great punk scene. Fallen off a bit with the expat crowd, but it is still Funky.
Gwangan-li
Fuzzy Naval - Similar in style and atmosphere to the one in Haeundae. Ditto on the fire show. They also serve food in the evenings. Not to be mistaken with the yet to be opened bar, Linty Navel. WA Bar - Korean chain of beer bars. Famous for its very wide selection of bottled beers laid out in large ice chests. The lighting is cool and the atmosphere friendly. Hollywood Star - Relaxed bar a few blocks off the beach. American nostalgia right down to the motorcycle in the middle of the bar. Pool/Darts. 051-622-6621 Thursday Party - Two locations to go with the others in Haeundae, Seomeyeon and Kyung Sung. On the Beach. 051-7580822/051-753-6621
Busan Haps 7
Lady Goodman
Music
After spending just a few minutes with these guys you can feel that the chemistry they share on stage follows them off into the real world. They were all born and raised in Busan. Founding members, Roy Kim and Jimi Lee, who share duties on guitar and vocals, were in several bands before putting Lady Goodman together. Along with bassist Tori Wong, drummer Peter Lee and keyboardist Eugene Han, the tightknit group puts out a mix of originals and covers reminiscent of Dave Matthews or Coldplay with a sound that is still, uniquely, Lady Goodman. The band’s name comes from the Kate Hudson character
By Jefferson Lipsky
in the Cameron Crowe movie, Almost Famous. As their following grows in Busan with both Korean and ex-pat listeners it is only a matter a time before “almost” will be scratched from their bio. Jimi Lee, who pens the tunes for the group, literally has music in his blood –his father is one of Korea’s most renowned jazz drummers. According to Jimi, the bands major influences range from The Beatles to Kool & the Gang. If you want to know more about Lady Goodman you can check out when their playing on busanhaps.com or join their Facebook group: “ladygoodman.”
On any given day in Busan there are... -77 Births -52 Deaths -59 Marriages -24 Divorces 8 Busan Haps
-651,000 Subway Riders -28 Traffic Accidents -995 Tons of Fish Caught -3,563 Tons of Garbage
-2.26 Million Drivers -198 New Driver’s Licenses -8 Fires -18 Construction Permits For more stats on Busan, check out www.busanlife.or.kr
Busan Sites Worth a good look. Beomeo Temple One of Korea’s “Great 5 Temples,” Beomeo is an incredibly serene temple complex. Founded in 678, the temple offers a unique view into the life of Korea’s Buddhist Monks, and Korea’s unique interpretation of Buddhism. Take Subway Line 1 to Beomeosa station. Head out exit 5. From there you can hop in a taxi or take the city bus up the mountain. Beomeo Temple is open all year.
Yonggung Temple Located right on the coast near Haeundae, Yonggung Temple offers stunning views of the sea as well as a dozens of statues and Buddhist artwork. Visit the three-story pagoda that is home to the four lions. The lions symbolize sadness, anger, joy, and happiness. After just a short time at Yonggung you will forget the former two and fully embrace the two latter.
Busan Tower/Nampo Dong Market Busan Tower offers a view on high of the port area. Nearby is the massive Nampo Dong Market where you can find just about anything. The area is recently polished up and has a great shopping district and a gazillion restaurants to check out. To get there, take Subway Line 1 to Nampo Dong station. It is a great place to get lost, so I will leave the directions at that. Enjoy.
Geumjeong Mountain Fortress An ancient wall and guard towers lining the ridge of the Dongnae Area, Geumjeong Mountain Fortress offer not only a view into the past but also a great view of Busan. To get there take Subway Line 1 to Myeongnyun-dong station. From there head west. If you aren’t up for a hike to the top then you can hitch a ride on the bright red and yellow cable car and glide right on up to the ridge in comfort. 10 Busan Haps
Busan Aquarium The largest aquarium in Korea and one of the most highly regarded in all of Asia, Busan Aquarium is a must see. Located literally on (and under) Haeundae Beach it is a great place to round out a day on the coast. You can check out shark feeding, penguins, and the bizarre looking Eagle Ray. To get there take Subway Line 2 to Haeundae station and hoof it towards the coast.
Jagalchi Fish Market Great place to pick up seafood to cook at home or to just kick back and have it cooked for you. Home to the largest seafood market in Korea, Jagalchi is located just across the street from Nampo-Dong market, so make it your last stop when you visit the area. Wouldn’t want to be walking around smelling like fish. (Busan Haps wishes in no way to offend people who find the smell of rotting fish appealing).
Nurimaru/ Dong Baek Island On the south-west end of Haeundae Beach you can take in some incredible views of the full breadth of Haeundae and Gwangan. There is an elaborately done pathway that leads you around the area, an old lighthouse and densely wooded areas to pretend you are lost in. Also look for the stone inscription of the Silla Dynasty scholar, “Haeun” (which means “sea” and “clouds) who visited there centuries ago. Historic Graffiti. Cool stuff.
Taejongdae Natural Park Located on the island of Yeongdo-gu, Taejongdae is an incredibly scenic park with great views from high cliffs facing the sea. There is an evergreen forest to wander around in and several facilities for tourists such as an observatory, an amusement park with a full on Ferris wheel and a cruise ship terminal. And there is the funky abstract art to boot. To get there just take bus 88 or 101 from Busan Train Station.
Busan Museum of Modern Art A sprawling 3-story 21,000 square meter building housing everything from traditional to modern art, the BMOMA is one of Busan’s prized jewels housing an enormous collection. And it is all available to the public for a mere 700 KRW. That is no misprint. To get there take Subway Line 2 to the Museum of Modern Art Station. They are open Seven days a week. 051-744-2602 Busan Haps 11
In a country with over 70% mountains and a long winter, there are bound to be some good spots to ski. For Busanites there is one hitch: Get ready for a serious trek to reach them. The peak season runs from mid-December to mid-February, but good skiing can be had before and after this time. As with most seasonal attractions, expect a lot of company on the slopes. Here are a few places worth a look. For more listings check: www.lifeinkorea.com/travel2/skiing Muju Resort
Bear’s Town
Muju features the highest and longest slopes as well as a Nordic Run going 48 km from Muju to Chonju. Kangsan Travel sells package trips from Busan including chair lift, transport and rentals at a reasonable price. www.mujuresort.com. 063-322-9000 elev:1530 m
While the chances of seeing a bear are as likely as catching a glimpse of an ajuma taking to the slopes in the buff, there is some decent skiing to be had here. There are also hot springs and some good local grub. www.bearstown.com. 031-540-500
Yongpyong
High-One
Opened in 1976, Yongpyong is way up in Gangwondo Province, so count on long bus ride from Busan to get there, but expect some great slopes and resort living. www.yongpyong.co.kr, 033-335-5757. elev:1350 m
The newest ski resort in Korea, has all the modern amenities including those musts such as a couple of casinos. Catch the train from Seoul’s Chongnyangni Station at 9:50pm that arrives 1:45am. www.high.co.kr, 033-590-7811 elev:1150m
Phoenix Park
Pine Resort
Up near Yongpyong, Phoenix Park is considered to be one of the more snowboard-friendly resorts. If you are looking to whip it around without tee-ing off the ski bunnies, this is your spot. www.phoenixpark.co.kr, 1588-2828 elev: 1050 m
If you happen to be up in smog central for a few days, Pine Resort is close to Seoul and offers some fair to midland skiing for the average Joe or Joesphine. But if you are going all the way from B-Town, pass. www.pinersorts.com, 031-338-2001
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Illustration by Xing Shiqi
Events for Dec/Jan 12/12 3rd Annual Bachelor/Bachelorette Auction: If you feel a bit hesitant about selling your soul, you can at least auction off your body for a good cause. 6:30 PM at Club Fabric in Kyungsung. Through 12/13 Art Exhibition by Alan Charlton: Some serious command of the straight line concept. At Johyun Gallery. www.johyungallery.com/ Through Dec 20th - Films in Our Memories: Busan’s Cinemateque will screen classics from “The Graduate” to “Dr. Zhivago” to “Midnight Cowboy.” 051-742-5377, www.cinema.piff.org Through 12/31 JUMP 2009 : Comic Martial Arts Performance: Whacky, wild, over the top. The pairing of comedy and violence --you can’t go wrong. www.hijump.co.kr 12/31 Busan New Years Festival: Goes all the way until the crack of dawn. Watch the sunset and make those resolutions you’ll soon break. At Yongdusan Park, Haeundae Beach. 051-888-3396 Dec-Jan Park Young-sook’s Photography Exhibition The display is called “Cry Crack Crazy.” Go figure. But mos def some great talent. You can find it at the ultrahip Go-eun Museum www. eng.goeunmuseum.org 1/16 Busan ATEK Golf and Bowl: Get your Bowl on and talk teaching. www.atek.or.kr For Much Much More, Visit www.busanhaps.com
Shoulda Asked a Foreigner First
The “Magic Hole” phone. Thanks to the fine folks over at Samsung Anycall we have a phone, “With a sleek design and a colorful hole in the middle.” Umm, yeah. He at least looks happy with the whole (hole) concept. And thus we send our glory whole heartedly to the marketing department down there at Samsung. Busan Haps 13
Kim Is it Really All That?
Chi By Brian Deutsch
The magical-mythical-restorative-rejuvenating properties of Kim Chi are a matter of pride with most Koreans. Named by the government as a “national treasure,” said food can cure everything from Swine Flu to the blues. It can make women more beautiful, better your golf swing, and even remedy the gastric cancer one study showed it may actually contribute to. One of Korea’s top expat commentators, Brian Deutsch, takes a look at Korea’s beloved national dish.
E
very foreigner has had enough of kimchi from time to time. Not necessarily grown tired of eating kimchi, but grown tired of hearing about it. Tired of hearing things like, “Kimchi is good for you,” “Kimchi prevents swine flu,” “Kimchi prevents SARS,” or “Kimchi makes Korean women beautiful.” My “favorite” example of over-the-top kimchi pride was an editorial a few years ago in the Chosun Ilbo, in which the writer said one reason Korean women are so good at golf is because the dexterity required by golf is also the same required in making kimchi. And in this time of worry over H1N1, kimchi’s mythical medical heroics against disease were embodied recently in a collection of animated shorts called “Kimchi Warrior,” circulating around the Internet, in which the caped “Kimchi Crusader” defeats enemies 16 Busan Haps
like Swine Flu, Mad Cow Disease, and Malaria. The benefits of eating kimchi are frequently touted by studies, newspapers, and the guy sitting across from you. The fermentation of various spices delays the growth of gastric cancer cells, says one study by the Rural Development Administration in 2008. The vitamin B12 - in kimchi and other Korean foods - is said by Korean researchers to have anti-aging properties and again, it can prevent stomach cancer. There was even the chairman of Gwangju’s Kimchi Festival quoted by Agence France-Presse in September saying: “You know why there are so many beautiful women in Korea and Korean women have such smooth skin? It’s because they have been grown on kimchi.” It’s not only Korean sources talking-up kimchi. America’s Health Magazine named it one of the world’s five
healthiest foods, pointing out the high levels of Vitamin A, B, C, and lactobacilli that aide digestion. While that may all be true, it is the belief in the healing power of kimchi that invites criticism from some expats. It’s easy to sneer at a sign that reads “Kimchi prevents Influenza A virus subtype H1N1” posted at the Kimchi Love Festival when, as we’ve read from teachers, that “schools and authorities consider foreigners more at risk for swine flu than their kimchi-fed Korean coworkers.” And those who dismiss the “Kimchi Saves!” message often point out its connection to stomach cancer. Indeed, the LA Times made the same observation about a link between stomach cancer and Kimchi. The article quoted a research paper on the high rate of gastric cancer in South Korea - ten times higher than in the United States - suggesting the cause is due to the enthusiastic consumption of kimchi and other fermented foods. One Korean researcher dodged a question telling the Times, “I’m sorry, I can’t talk about the health risks of kimchi in the media. Kimchi is our national food,” That so many English-language news articles in Korea bring up stomach cancer only to say that kimchi prevents it or delays its growth is telling. Perhaps today’s intense pride is an effort to counter how poorly-received it was by foreigners during an era of Korean poverty three generations ago. A 1953 article from the Associated Press said: “Kimchi is something that smells good to Koreans. To Americans, it just smells.” A US army captain was quoted in the piece: “Try to imagine Limburger cheese several stages decayed - and you’ll get the idea.” Other decades-old articles call kimchi “Korean sauerkraut,” “spoiled cabbage,” or “jellied, rotten cabbage,” and describe it as “highly aromatic” or “pungent.” An edition of Lonely Planet not too long ago called it “a reasonable substitute for tear gas.”
so much of it today is imported from China, or that when kimchi first gained international popularity, it was Japanese “kimuchi” winning the export battle. Thus, it’s not surprising that a team of researchers claimed earlier this year to have found evidence that Koreans used red pepper spices centuries before the Japanese were believed to have originally introduced them to the peninsula in the 16th century. Though known among those who served tours of duty in Korea in the 1950s, kimchi first seems to have attracted the attention of the Western world in the 1980s, before and after the Summer Olympics came to Seoul. A 1987 New York Times article said, “No Two Kimchis Taste Alike.” Going on to say, “Culinary authorities hail kimchi as ‘King of the pickles,’ because it ferments of its own accord, without vinegar. Its fiery juices carry the nation’s ‘’lifeblood,’’ cultural historians say. Its glory was certified when the South Korean government designated kimchi a national treasure.” I don’t think it’s a coincidence that the myth of kimchi grew at the same time South Korea did - back when it became more than just a country where people were stationed. And today, it’s not so important to dispute whether kimchi is “all that” or not. In fact, I would liken the debate to going back to my mom’s house and criticizing her chicken soup for whether or not it really is a good remedy for the common cold. As with kimchi, the restorative powers or the myths that surround it matter immeasurably less than our understanding of how important Koreans think it is. Enjoy. Brian Deutsch is an American from Pittsburgh, PA teaching English in South Jeolla Province. You can reach him through his highly popular blog on Korea, “Brian in Jeollonam-do.” w w w. b r i a n d e u t s c h . blogspot.com
Learning to Love it
K
oreans are inculcated with their kimchi pride at a young age. Here’s a remarkable passage from a middle school textbook I taught from: “I often hear my friends say they don’t like kimchi. But that’s unbelievable. Remember, kimchi is our traditional food. And it’s a key to maintaining good health. If we Koreans don’t like to eat kimchi, who will? No one will. Then kimchi will die away. Would you be pleased with that? It’s time we stopped throwing away our traditional pride. So, let’s say to ourselves ‘There’s nothing I like more than kimchi,’ and eat kimchi every day. Thank you.” English-language articles from the last few decades all bemoan that the younger generations aren’t making kimchi, as Western food grows more popular. It has been important, too, to show how Korean kimchi actually is, and it doesn’t help that
Busan Hap 17
Restaurant Guide
Featuring the Paintings of American Artist, Rosie Scandurra.
Haeundae
Blowfish - A Bar, a restaurant. Same owner as The Basement. A short cab ride from Jangsan Subway station to Seong Jeong Beach and you’re there. Good Burgers! And Matt is a hunk of a man. Sunset Lounge - Great BBQ on the roof, near the beach. Try the Ranch Chicken Tacos. www.busanhaps. com/sunset 051-742-2925 Big Tuna - On the road that borders the backside of Jae-Rae outdoor market in Jangsan. Go for the raw or cooked tuna, a little pricey but excellent grub.
Gwangan-li
Saigon “Pho”- Vietnamese restaurant. Across the street from the Starbucks just off the beach. Big yellow sign. It is on the same street as Hollywood Star. Guess Who? Family Restaurant Coming from the Gwangan Subway station, make a right at the beach road. They have just about everything on their buffet and the prices are very reasonable.
PNU
Fish & Pork - BBQ Shell fish is their specialty. Cheap. Can sit outside. There are a number of good restaurants nearby. Staff is made up mostly of PNU students some usually they speak English. Won Cho - Ultra cool place with all kinds of “real Korea” feeling. There are a variety of traditional Korean dishes from bulgogi (marinated meat) to chicken feet. Located a block upstream on the same one way street as The Basement. Kebabistan - Listing this Turkish restaurant is probably a waste of ink. Everyone has been there. If not, head out gate 1 PNU Subway Station towards PNU. On the left past the main road. Pho - At same spot as Kebabistan is a great little Vietnamese restaurant. 2nd floor with a great view of the PNU student throng. Real Vietnamese coffee.
Cusco - Dig on some spit fired chicken. The rice-stuffed chicken is popular. 51-624-0990
Wazwan - Serious Indian food (read the review on pg. 20 ) cooked by top
Four Season Raw Fish - Be prepared to drop some fairly decent coin, but the food is great. Real Korean style. Set meals run from 3050,000. Don’t be a wimp, try the live octopus --tell your grand kids. At the Millak Raw Fish Center 2F.
chefs from a family that has migrated around the world to cook fantastic Indian food. No alcohol is served but you are more than welcome to bring your own jug. A must eat. 051-5171947. Notice that the tel # is 1947?
Sushi Miga - Sushi boat style, high end raw. Good stuff and the interior is awesome. Across from the beach, Harbor Town. 051-746-0196 Taco Senora - A little tough to find. Take the street next to SFUNZ (Haeundae Station) towards the beach. In a little alley on the left near Save Zone. 051-744-4050 An-Ga - Stylish KBBQ. Word has it that they have the best meat in Busan. Check it out for yourself. Jung Dong subway station towards the overpass. Little pricey but worth it. 051-742-7852 Jagalchi Eel - BBQ eel in a spicy sauce. Goes great with soju. Very popular with Korean celebrities, especially during, Near Paradise Hotel. PIFF. 051-742-5387 Maris Buffet - Gigormous buffet with everything. A ton of salads and desserts. 30-40,000 KRW. Eat to your heart’s content. Jangsan Station across from Primus. Somunnan Beef Rib - If you have a preference for the gender of the beef on your plate, they have 40 years experience serving only female cows. Go figure. Walk the beach road east, a few blocks before you get to the RR tracks. 051-746-0003 Starface -Bar/Restaurant. Mexican, Italian and British cuisine. Good food fo’ sho. And Charles is there if you need help finishing your meal. See Ad on page 9. 18 Busan Haps
Korean Natural Food Restaurant Vegetarian food. If you don’t like meat, try a little Korean and say, “Gogi-no” and cross your arms in front of your chest. 051-751-5534
Taco’s Family - Nice hole in the wall with great burritos. But, don’t be surprised if there is Clam Chowder on special that day or even lasagna. It is 1/4 block just south of The Crossroads. 010-5688-6303
You can contact Rosie about her paintings at: rosiescan@gmail.com *Paintings slightly cropped for layout purposes
Check busanhaps.com for complete restaurant listings with maps and more typos than you can shake a chopstick at.
Kyungsung
Seomyeon
Bae Dae Po - Korean BBQ seafood and meat. About 75 meters from “Buy the Way” towards Mega-mart.
Florians’s - Across the street from TGI Fridays. All you can eat Buffet Have a little bit of everything. 18,000 KRW
Eu Dae Di - BBQ pork. Across from Thursday Party. Both here and Bae Dae Po have signs written in Korean. So start learning.
Loving Hut - Vegetarian. Take the Exit 2, left across from Outback. Try the “Noble Spaghetti” or Spicy noodles.
Pasta Factory - On the same road as Dunkin Donuts. Try the creamy tomato basil and chicken. Eva’s - Serving western-style brunch, lunch and dinner selections in an open air bar. Open for breakfast also. 051-628-5653. Chen Chen - Excellent Chinese food like back home. Good prices and a wide variety of styles. 010-625-8848 Bey Kebap House - Great Turkish food from the folks that wheel that cart around the Kyungsung area. The restaurant is right across from the Family Mart.
Buffalo - Got a strange logo with a Buffalo strangling a chicken. No Buffalo on the menu, just great chicken. If you are facing Lotte Dept. Store, take the street on the left side. It’s adjacent to the back edge of Lotte. 051-805-3512 Golm OK - Further down the same street as Buffalo two blocks, on the corner. Great BBQ and excellent side dishes. Judie Nine Brau - A brewery with good bar food. Seomyeon station, Exit 2, walk three blocks, make a left, across from the Taehwa pharmacy. 051-667-7979 O’Brien’s Gaya - Bar with a great selection of food. Subway Gaya station, Exit 2. 051894-6541
Indian Food
Just Like Mom Never Made By Jen Sotham
Tucked away in a little alley around the PNU area is a true taste of India. The food is prepared by chefs descending from a family that has migrated to all corners of the globe to cook their local cuisine. Luckily for Busan, a few of them ended up here.
W
henever heading out for a night in PNU, I usually suggest dinner at Wazwan to my cohorts. Much to my surprise, many of my friends, even those who claim a Busan-dae zip code, don’t even know it exists. I often get to bring along newbies, which allows me the privilege of seeing the look on a dinner companion’s face when they take the first bite of their Samosa or lick the spoon after the last bite of Palak Paneer. My first experience in the place that is now one of my staples wasn’t a pleasant one. Nearly three years ago, a friend had heard about the opening of a new spot called “Indian Village,” and a gang of us ascended the stairs into a gaudy lair that had rows of movie theater seats in lieu of chairs. The food wound up being as unappealing as the décor. I crossed Indian Village off my list at about the same time that Ali Shawkat added it to his…to purchase. Mr. Shawkat moved to Seoul in September 2002 to open a textile business with his brother. Several years later, he endeavored to bring the traditional cuisine of his home to Korea. When I learned he was from Pakistan, I threw out the obvious line of questioning. His reply, “Though our countries were separated by politics, Pakistan and India share the same culture, the same food. And people can identify Indian food.” Ali knew that the only way to do this right was not only by importing the right ingredients, but also by importing a proper chef. “Sure, I can cook the foods I grew up with – but I am not a professional. I cannot do it as well as someone with training.” 20 Busan Haps
Mr. Shawkat wasn’t the only one who sought a chef with credentials. According to him, Korean immigration laws require ten years of professional experience in order for a foreign chef to secure a work visa in Korea. With an authentic Indian chef on board, the first Wazwan made its debut in Itaewon during August of 2006. When Ali moved to Busan to open a second location two years later, he hired Kirti Singh, and soon after, his brother-in-law, Pratab Singh. Not only did the both of them hold the requisite experience, (Kirti has cooked in Germany, Tokyo and Dubai; Pratab in Thailand and Singapore) but they hail from a New Delhi family whose ‘thing’ is to cook Indian food abroad. There are brothers and cousins sprinkled around the globe, serving up authentic Indian fare. When asked what their personal specialties were, Kirti and Pratab engaged in a lengthy and serious discussion in a language I didn’t understand. After a minute or two, Ali turned to me and simply said, “Everything is special. And everything is common.” It was reminiscent of that scene with the director in Lost in Translation. It is apparent that the cooks put a lot of love into their food – from the texture, flavor, and down to the very vessels they are served in, each dish rings true to its intent. With a vast selection ranging from an above standard Chicken Masala to a tangy Alu Gobi (potato and cauliflower curry) to tender Kadhai Gosht (lamb with capsicum and onions) to the variety of Biryanis (rice dishes), you will find yourself needing extra orders of the perfectly fired Garlic Nan to sop it all up with. An added bonus is that Wazwan is vegetarian (and vegan) friendly, a rare find in this meat loving country. But for the booze loving expat community, be forewarned that Wazwan does not serve alcohol. However, they will allow you to bring in your own wine and they will provide the glasses. In that respect, Wazwan certainly lives up to its name -- which means ‘red carpet’ hospitality. Make sure you top the meal off with a cup of Chai. It is not to be missed. Getting there: Walk from McDonald’s going towards the PNU Gate. Turn left into the alley at the Baskin Robbins. 051-517-1947 www.wazwan.co.kr
Cookin’ Korean Samgye Tang (Chicken Soup with Ginseng) Ingredients: *1 small chicken (Cornish hen) *3-4 “Insam” Roots (Ginseng) *4-5 “Bam” (Chestnuts) *6-7 “Daechoo” (Jujube) *1/3 Cup sweet rice, washed and drained *8 cloves garlic, peeled *1/4 inch piece ginger, peeled -Clean the chicken inside and out. Trim as much of the visible fat as is possible. Wash rice, ginseng, the chestnuts and the jujubes. -Stuff the chicken with the sweet rice. (What fun that is). -In a pot, toss in the chicken, ginseng, jujubes, chestnuts, garlic and ginger. -Pour water to cover the chicken. -Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. Skim out the fat on top occasionally and baste the bird. -Cook about 2-3 hours until the bones fall apart. It is a tad bland so feel free to add your favorite veggies and ready the salt and pepper. BTW: If you wanna go easy on yourself and wimp out, you can purchase a “Samgye Tang Package” at the store and just throw it all in a pot of water with a chicken. But, where is the fun in that?
Oh, Baby!
In a joint media project between Joe McPherson of SeoulPodCast.com and Busan Haps’ Bobby McGill, a selection of foreigners who work in the Korean English media sat down one Sunday morning over coffee and Skype, sharing stories, grievances, and uplifting viewpoints of working in Korea’s English media, while juggling married and/or family life in Korea. The following is part article and part summary of the show and its guests, both of which you can check out at www.seoulpodcast.com. By Craig White
A
s Korea opens itself to world, internationalization naturally begins to take shape. While the country struggles to find that elusive mix that will allow for an embracing of international idealism, there remains an undertone of conservative ideology that is hardwired in the collective conscious. Without a doubt, the path to internationalizing Korea is paved in Korean thought and lined with Korean customs and behavior. Koreans want foreign investment and foreign tourism, and in short, global acceptance. But when foreigners try to counsel and nudge aside the Korean version of internationalization, it is akin to a cowboy trying to break a steed. And yet, the horse stubbornly thinks that it can break itself in alone; citing its own looking glass perspective of the global community. The English media industry of Korea has become a new battleground pitted between those (usually foreigners) who feel that internationalization in Korea should be heavily influenced or even outright led by the guidance of foreigners, versus conservative media who wants to keep one hand (or often, two hands) latched onto the umbilical tether that connects Korea to its traditional idealism, regardless if it impedes true globalization of its mindset, and subsequently, its economy. In the fray of this cultural tug-of-war, are a handful of foreigners who work in English media and also walk through the front door after a hard day’s work to find Asian thought permeating their domestic lives. And I am one of them. Having a child in Korea is something that leaves one even more perplexed with the culture than at any time in pre-parenthood. Think you’ve seen enough of the cross-cultural idiosyncrasies over the years that you’ve got this place figured out? Nope. Not until you have to deal with the potent combination of living with a Korean spouse, in-laws, and a newborn can you truly know how different things are between 22 Busan Haps
the Western world and the Eastern world. New levels of logic get tested, the moment that the pregnancy test shows positive. Things such as a pregnant wife cannot sleep near electrical outlets. Reading to the baby must begin in mere weeks after conception, even though the baby’s ears have yet to even form, let alone have any cognitive ability. No aircon. Not even during the summer. And the thick-ass socks the pregnant wife must wear, to prevent what the Koreans call, “wind in the bones”. Wha-? Yeah. Apparently, Korean women are especially sensitive to wind and drafts, pre and post-natal. If they don’t wear thick, woolly socks, their legs absorb the draft and they frequently get the leg chills which, so the story goes, last throughout their life. New levels of patience are discovered when you rent some furniture, like a baby crib, and you have to watch your in-laws throw salt at your feet, before the second-hand furniture enters the house. Why? Well, to ward off any lingering bad spirits formerly associated to the furniture, of course! And you get the stink-eye look from your in-laws, if you don’t at least know that. You know the “we’ll give the benefit of the doubt, if foreign boyfriend/husband doesn’t have his head fully around the labyrinth of cultural requirements” treatment you get? That benefit of doubt eventually begins to seap away into the form of expectations. So, as a general rule, fellas (or gals), don’t try to be the ‘cultural rule exemption’ policy in your Korean family. Instead, pay attention to the lectures that you get now and get up to speed on what makes the Korean family unit, purr like a kitten. Even if you often mistake the purr for the howls of an annoying alley cat. Well, that’s my take on things. Here is a run down on what the panelists had to say to Bobby and Joe on the Seoul Podcast show.~ Illustration by Kang Na Young
Michael Simning Mike has been in Korea for over a decade and married for almost all of his time here. Michael is the host of City of Light, a talk show program on Gwangju’s English Radio, GFN. He presently lives in Gwangju with his Korean wife and 2 yr old daughter. Additionally, he remains a busy man with not just his family and media endeavors, but also being actively involved with local orphanages. He runs “Underground Grocers” (an imported food store that he cofounded), and is looking at starting up a restaurant in the near future. In our radio interview, Michael touched on some interesting moments he has had, such as the time when a young Korean man gave the finger to his daughter with no regard to the fact that Mike was looking right at him. Mike also talks about his issues with Korean-style internationalization, like not being allowed to say the word ‘crazy’ on the radio, even if it is being used in the context of ‘funny’, and not necessarily implying ‘certifiably insane’, which is the only transliteration that nonEnglish speaking Koreans tend to identify with. On an upbeat note, Mike recalled over how much Korea has evolved with respect to immigration governance over married foreigners. “Eleven years ago, I was flat out told by immigration that I couldn’t get a spousal visa,” regardless of the fact that he was, indeed, married to a Korean. But he is pleased to see that, despite the average foreigner’s present grievances with Korean immigration, there has been a sea change in many aspects concerning married foreigners and spousal visas, over the past decade.
on the podcast panel discussing the ‘hazmat suit’ lifestyle that many father’s have to live, regarding the H1N1 flu scare, even if just to go to the corner store to get milk. Or you can hear about my up close and personal account of seeing a bronzed baby penis at one of Korea’s post-natal recovery centers.
Nathan Schwartzman Nathan, while not married to a Korean, nor presently living in Korea anymore, is married to a Japanese wife and juggles his marital life with his day job as a law clerk with Indiana’s Attorney General. But what keeps him perpetually at the frontlines of English media in Korea, is his pet project: KoreaBeat. com. It is considered by many as being the #1 English language blog covering Korea. Every day for the past 2 years, Nathan translates Korean news into English and posts it on his blog. And judging from his site’s traffic and the occasional flare-up with conservative Korean websites who read his articles, it’s obvious that he has the nose for seeking out those Korean articles that deserve the English light-ofday, but were never intended to be seen in English media. In contrast with the Korean-bound fathers on the panel, Nathan talked about the ease of the Japanese visa system compared to Korea’s, and also claims that his wife has always been supportive of his blogging hobby, but even moreso, now that Nathan has moved his blog under the umbrella of the Asian Correspondent Network, which helps provide him with some cash flow for his tireless efforts•
Rob York Rob is based out of Chuncheon and used to be a reporter for a pair of newspapers in Tennessee. But now, he finds himself as a reporter and editor for the Korea Herald. Recently married to his Korean bride last fall Rob also now has a 5 month old son. A child to which he admits having become a 3rd string quarterback to taking care of, after his wife and live-in mother-in-law. Rob talked about these challenges of domestic life and struggling to be recognized as the father and a central figure in the baby’s life. He also gave his take on his recent processing of American citizenship for his baby and dual citizenship status.
Craig White Well, that’s me. And like the others I have also been involved in the ‘dragging her, kicking and screaming’ process of the evolving English media in Korea, for the past 5 years. I started Galbijim.com with the intention of it being an information portal, with a heavy slant on food. It has since evolved into a web portal covering all things Korea, with over 9500 articles and 4000 members. My main focus now is bringing a stronger offline media presence to foreigners and English-speaking Koreans. Especially as the managing editor of Daegu’s bilingual magazine, Daegu Pockets. Two weeks after arriving in Korea in 2002, I met my future wife, whom I just married last fall, and recently had a baby girl, this past August. My wife has carried the brunt of the ups and downs of my English media efforts over the years, but there is a lot less friction now that Daegu Pockets has some stable financial traction. You can be here me
Busan Hap 23
DVD Review
By Jacob Worrel
The Power of Kangwon Province
H
ong Sang-Soo is one of Korea’s most celebrated filmmakers --abroad. Amongst local audiences, he remains surprisingly unknown. His films have consistently failed at the box office, and his last effort didn’t even get a wide-release despite boasting a cast with some of the country’s biggest stars. The director’s lack of mainstream appeal can be attributed to the arduous nature of his work. All of his films are fairly intricate puzzles, and fitting the pieces together demands rigorous concentration. With Hong, everything is always understated, and “The Power of Kangwon Province” is no exception. The film follows two seemingly unrelated characters on separate trips to the popular travel destination referred to in the title. Ji-Sook (Oh Yun-Hong) gets involved with an older married man, but ultimately finds the short-lived affair unrewarding and returns home. Sang-Kwon (Baek Jong-Hak) heads to the mountains to escape the humdrum of domestic life, and winds up in bed with a prostitute. In both segments, there’s an underlining feeling that something else is going on, and in the end, the audience finds out the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Like many Koreans who visit Kangwon Province, Ji-Sook and Sang-Kwon are really there to forget their ex-lovers, but they continuously find themselves drawn back into their past. Unlike most movies with convoluted plot lines, many important details aren’t dwelled upon for long, and to make matters even more confusing, a lot of the connections are left up to the audience to figure out. And so, much of what’s actually unfolding can easily elude an absentminded viewer. However, those with the patience and attention span to keep up with the film will find that its subtlety pays off. For all its attempts to link the two stories, “Kangwon Province” is much more intent on showing the disconnect that tears its protagonists apart. Thus, it repeats what every Hong movie says: that people are so hopelessly alienated from one another they’re doomed to wander the Earth alone. When the characters do come together, it’s more often out of desperation and ennui than heartfelt emotion, creating an ironic blend of intimacy and estrangement in one single moment. The director captures this odd situation best in the wonderfully awkward sex scenes. The act of making love is completely stripped of all its romance, and what’s meant to be a warm and passionate encounter comes off as removed. In “Kangwon Province,” Hong embraces his bleak outlook on human relationships more than ever. The absence of his usual comic relief, coupled with the sober tone and slow-moving pace, shows the filmmaker at his least playful. And while it may be his most articulate movie, it’s definitely a bitter pill to swallow. “Woman on the Beach” (2006) makes for a much breezier introduction to Korea’s most Directed by: Hong Sang-Soo underrated auteur. Jacob can be reached through his blog at: www. filminbusan.wordpress.com
Starring: Oh Yun-Hong, Baek Jong-Hak 4 stars out of 5
Busan Haps 25
Way back in 1996 Kim Dong-ha opened The Crossroads in PNU. Today it still stands along with several other spots around Busan that he founded along the way. With arguably the best collection of music in town and a memory for names that defies reason, Dong-ha remains a force on the expat scene. Drummer, Ben May, sat down with Dong Ha and asked him what it’s been like all these years.
The
Godfather -What made you want to get into the bar business? I went to college, but it wasn’t for me. I was just really into music. I wanted a little place to hang out and listen to good music with some friends.
-Why did you start out in the PNU area? I grew up around PNU. It’s always been a great hang out area. -How did you start hanging around foreigners? Before I opened Crossroads, I used to go to this record shop nearby, called “Led Zeppelin”. It was there that I met guys like Craig Lee who liked the same kind of music: Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Bob Marley. -Did you intend to cater to the foreign crowd? Not really. I just had a few foreign friends who shared the same taste in music. I opened the bar and they became my customers -What’s your impression of the foreign crowd in Busan? I love my job because I get to meet a lot of nice people. We all look different, but I was surprised to find that basically we are all human- we’re all really the same. 26 Busan Haps
It’s great to experience a lot of variety, though. There are all kinds. -Is it different now from when you first started? Basically it’s the same, but I have continually learned new things and about new music from all different people. -What’s your impression of the Korean crowd at your bars? Are they are different from your typical Korean? Honestly, I have had a lot of experiences where they can be narrow-minded. If they come into the foreigner environment with an open mind, then it can be a good thing and they can make new friends. If they have a closed mind, then there could be problems. It’s like that with most of life, isn’t it? -Have you had any trouble with other bar owners or neighbors of your business? There has been some competition and a little jealousy from some people- it’s just business. I don’t want to pay attention to it. -Do they ever complain about too many foreigners hanging around? There have been complaints about the noise and lots
of people hanging out on the street in front of the bar. Sometimes they call the police. The police don’t really know what to do and they just complain to me. Some things are out of my control, but sometimes I am a bit of a target. -Some entertainment areas are mob connected. Any run-ins with them? No. I stay away from them and they stay away from me. That’s the way I like it. -University areas are generally mob free. Why is that? Gangsters want high profit businesses and university kids don’t have much money. There’s no money in it. -In the past, Korean law did not allow dancing and also took an issue with live music in the bars around universities. Why was that? The laws were kind of a mystery. They were real strict about specific licenses where you could have a dancing night club with live music or a sit down pub- it couldn’t be both. Thankfully, the Kim Dae-Jung administration relaxed the laws, so there aren’t really any hassles from the authorities any more. People should be free to express themselves with music. -You’re known for your widely varied taste in music and impressive record collection. How did you start getting interested in music that most Korean people do not know about? When I was young, I was really introverted and I lisPhotos by Nichole Blair tened to the radio all the time and heard all kinds of western music: The Beatles, Simon & Garfunkel. I got interested in collecting records and have been ever -That really opened up the scene in Kyungsungdae since. I think of collecting vinyl like someone collects and started the expansion of foreigner friendly bars there and in other parts of town. Do you think you old books. My records are my good friends. inspired a lot of competition? -Do you think that your generation of Koreans knows Yes, there were a lot of bars that copied what was hapmore about other kinds of music than the younger pening. It doesn’t bother me. I just hope that if they are generations? If yes, why do you think that is? successful, I am successful, too. My generation seemed to have more free time and more curiosity about music. We always searched for -Do you feel any difference between the scene in PNU new music and Rolling Stone magazines. These days, and that of Kyungsung? young people have no time for that. Also, it’s too easy It’s a very different atmosphere, from the music to the to get what you want on the computer- there’s no big fashion. PNU is like Busan, while Kyungsungdae is like Seoul. search to drive the curiosity. -How do you deal with fights in the bar? I try to calm them down and work the situation out. I don’t like to call the police. I still feel like a bit of a rebel, so I just don’t like having the police around. Back when there was just Soul Trane, there were a lot of people in one small club and there were many fights. Now, -What do you like to do outside of the bar? there are a lot of places to go, so there is not as much I go hiking on the mountains, do some amateur boxing, trouble. and hang out with my family. -What’s the downside to running bars? -In the early part of the decade, PNU was the only Keeping up with the business. Numbers have never place to be. What made you decide to open Vinyl in been my strong point. Kyungsung? -What’s the upside to running bars? Guitarist Lee Byung Hoon recommended the place. I I have met a lot of great people, get new ideas and thought about opening a bigger place that was for live learn about new music. music and dancing. I don’t dance, but a lot of people love it. I know dancing is important- even the Rolling -Over the years, I’ve heard many people say “DongStones make people dance. I thought it would be good Ha must be rich!”. Is it true? to open a place that people would like. Totally untrue. I would say that I am rich at heart! -You’re not the typical “ajeoshi”. What’s your philosophy of life? Life is difficult for everyone. Just follow your happiness. Doing what makes you happy can be the real success in life.
Busan Hap 27
Short
Stuff
Promise of Marriage for Some Action is legal says Korean Supreme Court ruling
A long-standing law that penalized men for luring women into having sex under the “false” promise of marriage was declared unconstitutional by the Supreme Court. (Why didn’t I ever think of that line?) As a result, men currently charged for such an act will see their cases immediately dropped, while those previously convicted can be exonerated if they request a review. Until the court’s ruling, a man convicted on charges of abusing the ultimate beggar’s plea faced up to two years in prison or a hefty five million won ($4,300) fine. Several countries in Europe and states in the U.S. still have similar “I’ll give you the ring if you give me that thing” laws on the books. Of the men charged over the past few years in Korea, only 5.8% actually went to trial.
Royster, Garcia on for another year with the Lotte Boys
Manager Jerry Royster and outfielder, Karim Garcia, have signed on once again with the Lotte Giants. Oddly, Royster, who took the perennial bottom dwelling team to the playoffs his first two seasons at the helm, was the subject of criticism by Lotte Fans upset with the Giant’s early exit from post season play. So much for gratitude. Garcia, who had a strong season last year at the plate, finished near the top in both home runs and RBIs. The Giant’s have yet to choose their second foreigner in the league’s legal allotment of two per club. The Lotte Boys report to spring training in Saipan this March. Contact me if you have any spare plane tickets.
Korea joins the OECD club of major international donors Korea has become a full member of the OECD’s Development Assistance Committee (DAC) after being approved in a special session at OECD headquarters in Paris last month. The 23 members of the OECD such as the U.S., Japan and EU have made large donations to developing nations over the years. Last year Korea provided overseas assistance worth $800 million or 0.09 percent of gross national income, an amount still short of the DAC average of 0.3 percent of GNI. A hearty congrats to Korea for their new efforts at spreading the wealth to those in need. ~Bmc 28 Busan Haps
Busan Hap 29 Busan Hap 9
B-Town B-Ball L
ed by the KBL’s leading scorer, American Jasper Johnson, and a host of local talent such as, Park Sang-o, Cho Sungmin and Kim Young-hwan, the Sonic Boom have been at or near the top of the standings all season. This after kicking around in the cellar for the past few years. Head coach, Chun Chang-jin has got the boys playing tight and giving the sparse local crowd something to get excited about on the tail-end of a great season put on by the Lotte Giant’s right across the street. They even pulled off a franchise-record eight-game winning streak last month. Some good hoops going on in B-Town. And for those die-hard NBA fans who worry there will be too much fundamental basketball (passing, team play, etc.) worry not. There are some American ball hogging showboats to feed your fancy. And mine, for that matter. Go check ‘em out right next to Sajik Stadium. And no, I didn’t make up the teams names, they’re real. 30 Busan Haps
KT Sonic Boom Home Schedule
12/5 vs. Dongbu Promy 12/9 vs. KT&G Kites 12/11 vs ET Land Elephants 12/19 vs. SK Knights 12/26 vs Samsung Thunders 12/30 vs LG Sakers 1/1 vs. Mobis Phoebus 1/5 vs. KCC Egis 1/12 vs. Dongbu Promy 1/20 vs. KT&G Kites 1/23 vs. ET Land Elephants 2/6 vs. Mobis Phoebus
The Year in Review
By Bobby McGill Another year has come and gone and perhaps we’ve all become “A little bit older and a lot less bolder than we used to be.” I don’t know, but if you can’t work Bob Seger into an article somewhere, you have to ask yourself what you really got into this business for anyway. Anyway... let’s get to it. -January, of course, kicked off with the Big O stepping into the big Oval Office. Tears were shed, heartfelt speeches given and the honeymoon lingered on for just a little while longer than usual. Now, here we are eleven months into it and only 45% of Americans feel that Obama’s “Message of Hope” didn’t actually turn out to be the “Message of Nope.” Well, at least I don’t have to say I am Canadian anymore. -Things didn’t fare much better this year for Osaka, Japan’s native son Lee Myung-bak. Though the South Korean president was no doubt happy to see his approval ratings on the rise after they slipped to a dastardly 17% the year before, there wasn’t much else to be thankful for. That nasty scene when he got shouted down at Roh Muhyun’s departure service really took the “fun” out of funeral. R.I.P. Prez Roh. -2009 will be remembered as the “Year of the Mask” as millions of Koreans donned surgical masks to avoid catching the Swine Flu. I would imagine cosmetic surgeons took quite a hit with all those people putting on masks and putting off adjustments to what people wouldn’t see anyway. -While 2009 saw a great many tragedies, few compare with the fact that the Yankees garnered another World Series Championship. My dislike for the boys in pinstripes runs so deep that those older, soju-infused Koreans whom call me “Yankee” from time to time have no idea how much it hurts. -One of my favorite shows, Entourage, managed to pull off a fairly decent season this year. Unfortunately, producer Marky Wahlberg tied the knot in 2009, so you can see where the show’s plot line is headed. Dread. Is nothing sacred? -This down economy is tough on everyone. Suicide Bomber jobs in Iraq saw a sharp decline to less than 100 this year compared with 257 in 2008. Parents across the beleaguered Iraqi nation saw more and more of their sons staying at home glued to the TV watching reruns of American Idol.
-In the “It’s not my money, let’s give it to someone else category,” this year’s top entry is the U.S. Government who contributed $40 million to the Afghan presidential elections. After the big success of the “Cash for Cars” program, I guess they figured the “Kash for Karzai” program was worth a try. Will blunders never cease? -It was reported in March that the CIA destroyed 92 interrogation tapes they had been using on terror suspects abroad. Among those tapes destroyed were K-Pop sensation Super Junior, Mariah Carey’s Christmas Collection, along with Level’s I, II and IV of the Interchange ESL Listening series. -French President Nicholas Sarkozy, following a meeting with Barack Obama last spring, offered to take into custody all Guantanamo Bay detainees should the U.S. president decide to close the facilities. Interestingly, 84% of the prisoners surveyed said they would refuse to go. -North Korea tested another nuke this year. I speculate that the radiation could increase crop yields by creating rice mutations and that next year South Korea will have to send food to only 99.4% of the North Korean people. -Iranian President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad was “elected” president for a second straight term this year. Iranians took to the streets in protest demanding that if he was going to accept the fraudulent election results, the least he could do is shave his neck before traveling abroad. -Ethnic riots in western China left 156 people dead in June of this year. A Chinese university student speaking on the condition of anonymity commented to a western reporter: “What riots? I didn’t hear about that.” -And finally, Busan Haps Magazine was launched this year. What significance this has remains to be seen. But of one thing you can be certain: After busting my hump for the past 6 months, you can bet I will probably be on the beach in Thailand while you are reading this. Happy 2010 to ya.
32 Busan Haps
You can threaten Bobby McGill at busanhaps@gmail.com