6 minute read
Sustainability in Fashion
Founder of Victoria Grace Fashion, Jennifer Ijeoma Rönne, discusses the direction of Sustainability in Fashion and how it is the responsibility of the consumer and the fashion industry to tackle the effects of fashion on the environment.
Is Sustainability in Fashion becoming a buzz word that is seen to be thrown around and sometimes lacking depth and substance?
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The conversation about Sustainability in Fashion involves many facets. It can start by addressing the issues, plights and trials in any ecosystem where fashion items are being produced and consumed and needle its way through the supply chain from crop to cloth with/without consideration for the culture, economic development and societal norms and habits of the country and people.
What is becoming more evident is that one shoe does not fit all. For example, when Sustainability is used in the Fashion space for the issues of an African-American, it can be quite different for an African designer living on the Continent. Both are BIPOC (Black, Indigenous and People of Colour); and can be addressed under the umbrella of black owned business, but as one faces issues strongly from race and colonialism, the other faces issues strongly from bias and nepotism. Therefore discussions in this Sustainability sphere come and go in different directions and need to address specific issues which bring current and totally new facets to the same topic of Sustainability. So buzz word or not, Sustainability is relevant and here to stay.
In my opinion, the question of Sustainability and its answers or solutions would also depend on the person and where they operate from and live. There are many definitions of Sustainability, today this is my best, it addresses where I am at now on the subject. This was by McGill University: ‘’Sustainability means meeting our own needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. In addition to natural resources, we also need social and economic resources. Sustainability is not just environmental- ism’’. This definition touches on how an African Designer can be active in the Sustainability dialogue, and since Sustainability can mean Inclusion, which means that some have been excluded from the dialogue, that is some have not been counted or represented, it also touches on the rising issue of Bias in Fashion.
Whether Sustainability means radical transparency and accountability, what is beginning to matter are the individual steps taken with honesty, and about the difference one can make and show they are making. We have noticed during COVID-19 a culture of calling out. It has positively made the Fashion industry leap frog towards becoming 100% responsible for their contribution in record time, but it has also created a culture of Green washing which has further confused the customer on what is really going on.
Both consumers and producers are encouraged to be conscious, to opt for slow fashion, to reuse, recycle, repurpose and up cycle. The producer is encouraged to use natural and recycled fibres as well as adapt to pattern cutting techniques that keep waste to its minimum. The battle is to curb fast fashion and pressurised consumerism. This is a fight shared by all on the planet.
African designers are encouraged to continue in their way of slow fashion; by making made to order luxury fashion, heritage fashion, keeping up with the use of local artisanal skills such as embroidery, textile designing and woven techniques. Some have had to clear up the second-hand markets by upcycling; using up the
excess deadstock which fills the local markets, to make timeless and essential designs. African designers continue to look for ways to turn their food and fruit waste into natural dyes and biodegradable fabrics.
In 2019, the UK consumed 11.1 million single use outfits for holidays which later got binned. According to WRAP (the Waste and Resource Action Plan), the average clothing is used for 3.3 years (UK). As a result, options to swap, reuse, repurpose and even not buy at all are at the top of the Sustainability dialogue which involves everyone’s participation.
Gucci announced its new climate strategy at the World Economic Forum 2021 in Davos. The Natural Climate Solutions Portfolio champions regenerative agriculture, looking beyond the brands commitment to carbon neutrality towards restoring environments impacted by deforestation. Tackling the effects of fashion on the environment requires all stakeholders to be fully responsible for their output. The abuse and issues with deforestation, wildlife preservation and biodiversity affects both us and the planet in many harmful ways.
It takes up to 10,000 litres of water to produce a single pair of Jeans. It goes without saying that upcycling Jeans is great way to go. One should also choose to re-wear and repair.
Consumers should be exposed via Social Media to brands which choose to make timeless products that can be ones companion for years and a brand that takes damaged second hand clothes and upcycles and repurposes. Victoria Grace Fashion based out of Togo West Africa is committed to both.
Designers should reduce their production and use past purchases as indicators to create. Seasonal collections may have to be a thing of the past. If a products end-of-life cannot be recycled, upcycled or will end up in a landfill, then do not create it.
In the meantime, we look forward to seeing more qualified manufactures who meet the standards of the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards)
Certifications – A textile production certification limiting the use of toxic bleaches, dyes and other chemical inputs during the production process of textiles. It is internationally recognised as the toughest organic textile standard because it goes beyond verifying the organic farming process to include every step of manufacturing.
In conclusion, I would like to take insights from The Circular Economy Action Agenda for Textiles released February 2021 which outlines the key opportunities available to enable a full system shift:
(a) To incentivise and support design for longevity and recyclability. (b) To produce virgin natural fibres sustainably, including land use. (c) To encourage the market to use less clothing and for longer. (d) To guide and support new business models for environmental, financial and social triple-win. (e) Where used textiles trade occurs, ensure environmental and socio-economic benefits. (f) To strategically plan collection, sorting and recycling operations. (g) To increase efficiency and quality in textiles sorting. (h) To make the recycled fibres market competitive. (i) To integrate and advance decent work in the transition to a circular economy for textile. (j) To investigate the socio-economic impacts of a circular economy for textiles
In the words of Vivienne Westwood: Buy less, Choose well and Make it last
Victoria Grace is an ethical fashion and lifestyle brand created in Africa. Our label is a fusion of world cultures; bridging differences in a blend of styles, fabrics and colours, each style tells a story. It was established in Lagos, Nigeria in 2016. Today, we have reinvented ourselves as a social, ethical and sustainable brand building communities, helping those found along our value chain, advocating for change, transparency, and fair trade whilst actively promoting Made in Africa. Victoria Grace has featured on several media platforms worldwide for their contribution towards Style and Sustainability.
Jennifer Ijeoma Rönne is the founder of Victoria Grace Fashion. After first working in the fashion industry, Jennifer changed course to work with KPMG, Lehman Brothers and Morgan Stanley before relocating to Lagos, Nigeria in 2008. She returned to fashion in 2016 after holding a couple of conferences supporting the Nigerian textile and manufacturing industry. www.victoriagracefashion.com - pr@victoriagracefashion.com
Jennifer Ijeoma Rönne
