Style The beauty, subtlety and versatility of cotton

FOR 20 years, cotton farming stagnated in the Philippines, specifically in Pinili, Ilocos Norte. But a native Ilocano, Dr. Joven Cuanang, spearheaded in revitalizing the industry. With guidance from Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan awardee Magdalena Gamayo, and vital support from the Philippine Fiber Industry Development Authority, the National Seed Industry Council, and the Philippine Textile Research Institute, Cuanang is steadily realizing his dream of helping cotton farmers and inabel weavers.

A neurosurgeon, Cuanang is also the enterprising president and founder of the Pintô Art Museum in Antipolo, Rizal. In Algodon: The Story of Cotton, staged on February 5 at the sprawling museum’s Gallery 7, he tapped the stellar talents of fashion designers Pepito Albert, Vic Barba, JC Buendia, Tonichi Nocom and Randy Ortiz to “demonstrate the beauty, subtlety, and versatility of inabel fabrics made of pure cotton and dipped in organic dyes.”

The sustainable effort, assures Cuanang, is worthwhile: “Cotton farming supplements traditional products: rice, corn, monggo and vegetables. It can be a farming substitute for tobacco, most especially as this is harmful to health. Moreover, it provides the yarn for cotton fabric, now preferred ethically over synthetic fibers.”

Cotton, among other plant-derived fibers like abaca, maguey and pineapple, which are cultivated in farms, fertilized organically, and colored from plantderived dyes, is consonant to acceptable standards for clothing prevailing globally. Ecologically, Cuanang said, this direction is sound.

“Algodon, which is Spanish for cotton, is a statement of an idea put into action. Painstakingly, over the last six years, we nurtured it from seed farm to fiber to fashion. Farm-produced cotton has its rightful place in our times. It is part of our cultural heritage. It should be revitalized all over our country,” declares Cuanang.

Cotton is a soft, fluffy, feel-good fabric, and the designers have fully committed to supporting its resurgence. Pepito Albert, who has been indisposed as of late, sent down a single look of a sexy, sculptured inabel blazer paired with a skirt made of silk taffeta and Swiss lace worn by supermodel Jo Ann Bitagcol.

Here, the country’s four other foremost fashion purveyors share their design process for “Algodon.”

BARBA BY VIC BARBA

AlGODON’ being the title of the show was also the working title [of my collection]. My design mission was to show the fabric in prominence alongside other

ONE thing that’s not openly talked about in beauty circles is underarm care but many people do struggle with it. Finding the right deodorant is one of the problems. For context, I sweat a lot and 15 years ago, I decided to stop using antiperspirant, except for certain days when I know there will be extensive physical activity.

I have used everything from well-known products used by Hollywood celebrities to those from local indie brands and to be honest, nothing has worked except for maybe four. Most products don’t work, meaning you’ll still stink after using it, or they can be itchy, sticky, and never dry down.

The ones from multinational brands work but they make my underarms itch. I suspect the culprit is aluminum, which has been linked to contact dermatitis. Another culprit could be the dyes used in manufacturing the deodorant.

If you’re someone with very sensitive skin, it’s probably best to switch to a natural deodorant because underarm deodorant or antiperspirant is one of the most common sources of allergies. It makes a lot of sense because, aside from aluminum, most underarm products contain fragrance which can cause irritation.

Unfortunately, most of us need to wear deodorant because our underarm is a warm and moist environment where bacteria and fungus like to grow, so it’s natural for the area to have a funky smell. If you have underarm hair, then that’s a breeding ground for bacteria. A 2016 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed that the strongest armpit odors came from those who left their pit hair unshaved or unwaxed. Meanwhile, the study showed that those who removed their armpit hair had the cleanest underarms.

A 2018 study in the Microbiome Journal showed that sweat itself does not have any odor. The odor is caused by the bacteria in your armpits, which is usually trapped by the hair fabrics we use in the tropics like cotton and linen, and to show the Abel Ilokano in ways other than the usual ‘Filipiniana.’ The show was conceptualized in May 2022 and was originally slated to be shown last October. Majority of the pieces were already done by then. New fabrics and colors came in November and December so we incorporated that in the collection.

“I’ve had orders pouring in while the show was going on. Does that mean it’s saleable? Definitely! Mass production possibilities? The fabric itself is not mass-produced. It is made by hand which makes it quite dear. But it is a beautiful fabric so it certainly has its place in the design world.”

JC BUENDIA

“WOUlD you believe I sewed the collection in two weeks? Because it was wedding season, I started making the collection just two weeks before the show. I already had a mood in mind and I’ve already asked experts regarding appropriation. If I use stampitas as accessories, it’s best I only use a representation.

“I’ve said too often that designing is problemsolving. In designing my capsule collection for ‘Algodon,’ I thought of addressing our problem with fluctuating weight. We can be fit and toned one day, and by the weekend we’ve gained again.

“It was a joy working with the new inabel weaves of pure cotton. They were soft and breathable, and very easy to iron. I decided to make bibs that can be tied tight or loose at the sides [so go ahead with the second serving of Japanese fried rice]. The collection wouldn’t be complete without new interpretations of the Philippine Terno. I came up with Terno bibs worn over pleated tulle skirts for a garden reception, perhaps, or with a beaded embroidered tulle skirt for candlelit dinners.”

TONICHI NOCOM

“MY collection is resort dressing—it should be known to everyone that it’s not the generic look of T-shirt/tank tops/shorts. It’s having the right pieces of clothing to wear at a resort. We are a resort country with exclusive beach clubs and private/gated communities along the beach. Weddings are now common in resorts. I have always dreamed of seeing everyone dressed even at the beach. Pinoys for sure have been to resorts abroad and noticed the manner of dressing.

“With the new show date, I had time to do variations until the final edit. My clothes do not call attention, they are essentially basic in silhouette and fabric. I am always guided by the principle of versatility and appeal. My aim is to evoke ease, comfort and self-confidence wherever the wearer finds himself in. The overcoats can be for travel wear. The collection is consistent and cohesive with my DNA as a menswear designer. “This is my first time to work on inabel and the ‘mosquitero’ fabric. I asked Vic Barba about the characteristic of inabel and he said it is a superfluous fabric. Once cut, it frays easily, the width is 22” (if soaked, expect shrinkage), and there is color bleed (evenly).

“To sustain inabel, the government should support the weaving industry in partnership with the private sector, and tap the right people to work as one group focused on a goal. We have no textile industry except for these weavers. We should work together to be partners and be one in fashion.”

RANDY ORTIZ

“AS I have been advocating for several years, modern Filipino fashion is the main inspiration from the cotton inabel that was especially woven and provided for us. I opted to stick with my core, simple and elegant cocktail/lounge pieces, clean classic lines with subtle details of embroidery. The techniques we used are draping, patching and tailoring to create the collection which I think would complement the color story of beiges, grays, and hints of blue, green and rose pink.

“I started early doing the designs and treatments, from soaking to actual patterns as I basically used inabel 70 percent to 80 percent for the whole collection. I took into major consideration wearability with very subtle couture treatments while doing the collection, Some are even hand-stitched to manipulate the fabrics. I’m thinking of infusing it for my future pop-ups until the weaving reaches maximum potential.” n that grows there.

So based on these studies, it’s not true that those who have had their underarm hair removed via laser are more prone to underarm odor that those who still have hair there. Here are the deodorants that have worked on me and why

I like them: n Lafe’s Unscented aLoe spray deodorant. Lafe’s Unscented Aloe Spray Deodorant comes in a spray formula and is made with soothing, certified organic aloe vera. It claims not to contain “harmful chemicals.” The brand has a disclaimer that some products, although natural, may still cause allergic reactions. n BLack chicken remedies axiLLa deodorant paste. I got this Australian-made deodorant paste from my boss, who is also on a quest for the best natural deodorant.

The brand recommends doing a patch test for 48 hours.

I like this because it is easy to use and isn’t sticky. The downside is that it’s not effective during days when you are expected to sweat a lot. To use, just apply on clean armpits. Make sure you dry it before putting on your clothes.

I looked at the brand’s web site and realized that there are several variants of this paste. What I have is the Barrier Booster one. This bicarbonate-free deodorant for sensitive skin, which promises to neutralize odor for all-day protection, is in an eco-friendly tin. It is vegan and cruelty-free, and does not contain alcohol, parabens, propylene glycol, triclosans, synthetic fragrances, or other chemicals deemed harmful for humans and animals. The deodorant paste is also free from aluminum salts or sweat blockers. What I like about this is that it smells good and doesn’t make my underarms itch. It’s more effective that the Lafe’s variant for sweaty days and it doesn’t leave white marks on clothes. It may be a paste but it’s not sweaty and dries down easily. n fresh formULa sgt. at arms deo spray. Fresh Formula is a brand owned by the same company as Colourette Cosmetics. It took a hiatus in December 2022 and came back recently with its best-selling product, the Sgt. at Arms Deo Spray. I have hoarded several bottles of this product after the brand closed in 2022 and I’m down to my last two. “In our absence, we took our time to get to know you better,” said brand owner Nina Dizon-Cabrera during the brand re-launch event recently. “We reflected on our brand purpose and values. We have put the work in developing various product lines, so this is just the first of many to come.” Fresh Formula’s direction forward is to cultivate a safe space for all who embark on the journey of self-love and acceptance so, yes, it’s just right that the re-launch product is the Sgt. at Arms Deo Spray. The new Sgt. at Arms Deo Spray and Overnight Cream now come in improved formulas to address the old products’ areas for improvement like stickiness, texture and drying time. Both are fragrance-, paraben- and cruelty-free. The deodorant spray helps eliminate odor-causing bacteria, provides protection from underarm perspiration, and effectively smoothens and moisturizes your underarm skin while evening out discoloration. I am not sure if this spray has sweat blockers but I like it because it really keeps my underarm area dry and odor-free. I can’t use it for one week straight but I apply it when I’m wearing clothes that aren’t black.

THE new Sgt. at Arms Deo Spray and Overnight Cream now come in improved formulas to address the old products’ areas for improvement, like stickiness, texture, and drying time. Both are fragrancefree, paraben-free, and cruelty-free. dinna chan

B6

Monday, February 20, 2023