CITY GUIDE BUCHAREST 2012
BR City Guide Benefiting from the expertise and Western media standards of a mixed local and expat team of journalists, Bucharest City Guide brings you the must-read insider’s lowdown on what to see, where to eat and what to do in Romania’s vibrant capital city. With a portable and easy-to-use format, the guide is divided into four sections and features two maps. The sections are: Tourist Info – how to get around Bucharest; Sightseeing – with subsections on Landmarks, Byzantine Bucharest, Museums, Souvenir Shops and Guided Tours; Old Town – the historical zone bustling with restaurants, bars, terraces and cafés at the very heart of the city, with accompanying map; and Restaurants – our recommendations of the best places to eat, organized by type of cuisine (including the top restaurants serving Romanian food). Venues are marked on the map by symbols reflecting the type of establishment they represent. Business Review – Romania’s premiere English-language business weekly – has been covering the local economy and financial environment, within a broader socio-cultural perspective, for more than 14 years.
BR Guides Published by Bloc Notes Media Editors: Debbie Stowe, Oana Vasiliu • Sales: Oana Molodoi Publisher: Anca Ionita • Cover Photo: Mihai Constantineanu Contacts: Editorial: oana.vasiliu@business-review.ro Sales: oana.molodoi@business-review.ro www.business-review.ro BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 1
TOURIST INFO ARRIVAL AIRPORT: OTOPENI The only commercial airport in Bucharest is now Henri Coanda – Otopeni, situated 17 km north of the city. Taxis, trains and buses go to the city center. Ignore the taxi drivers who will assail you as you make your way through Arrivals. To pay a fair price for a ride into the city, walk through to Departures and pick up a regular taxi when it drops somebody off. Honest taxi firms charge between RON 1.39 and RON 1.69 per kilometer. A cheaper alternative is taking bus 783, which stops in front of the Domestic Arrivals hall and goes to the city center, stopping at Victoriei Square, Romana Square, Universitatii Square and terminating at Unirii Square. Buses theoretically run every 30 minutes from 05:25 to 23:00. The 780 connects the airport with the central train station, Gara de Nord, with the same timetable. An express bus journey costs RON 7 (travel within the city is cheaper) and you need to purchase an Active Card before boarding, which costs RON 3.5 and can be topped up at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest for all means of transportation in Bucharest: buses, trams and metro. The airport is connected to Bucharest by railway line. The 2 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
train departs at irregular intervals and you need to take a minibus to get to the airport station. Timetables and tickets are available in the Arrivals hall.
RAILWAY : GARA DE NORD If you arrive in Bucharest by train it will be at Gara de Nord. There are ATMs, shops, kiosks and fast-food restaurants. If you’re hailing a taxi, walk some distance from the station first, as the drivers that loiter in this area will rip you off. To get to the airport from Gara de Nord, take bus 780.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT SUBWAY Open: daily, 5:00 - 23:00; Tickets: RON 4 (90 cents)/roundtrip; RON 6 (aprox 1.25 euros) daily card The metro system is the cheapest and easiest way to get around if you don’t know Bucharest and also the quickest, although the network is not comprehensive. There are four lines, numbered from M1 to M4. It’s particularly useful for north-south journeys along the central axis of squares (M2), mainly Unirii to Aviatorilor. Tickets are on sale from kiosks near the ticket barriers and most trains have maps. For the local version of an Oyster card, which can be used also for buses and
TOURIST INFO MIHAI CONSTANTINEANU
Rush hours might cause traffic congestion trams, ask for instructions at the ticket kiosks.
BUSES AND TRAMS Open: 5:00 - 23:00 Tickets: RON 1.3 for urban lines; RON 3.5 for express lines
which should be RON 1.39 (less than 50 cents) per km. A higher rate of RON 3.5 per km is charged by few companies. These are the taxi companies that we recommend for booking by phone:
AUTOCOBALCESCU Buses and trams are more comprehensive and frequent. You can buy electronic passes charged with a certain number of journeys which must be touched in on board; most stops have a ticket kiosk.
Phone: 021.9451 Rate: RON 1.39 / km
CRIS TAXI Phone: 021.9466 Rate: RON 1.39 / km
GRANT TAXI
TAXIS Taxis, which are still cheap by Western standards, can be booked by phone, hailed on the street or found at taxi ranks (the most central one is located next to the Intercontinental Hotel). If you don't book, be sure to choose a reputable cab – look for the tariff displayed on the door,
Phone: 021.9433 Rate: RON 2.19 / km or RON 3.49 / km, depending on the type of car
LEONE Phone: 021.9425 Rate: RON 1.39 / km
MERIDIAN Phone: 021.9444 Rate: RON 1.4 / km BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 3
OLD TOWN This thriving pedestrian area at the very heart of the city, with its intricate narrow streets full of small shops, terraces, cafÊs, bars and restaurants, is also the place where several layers of 550 years of Bucharest’s documented history overlap, conveying the image of a city in constant transformation. The 16th-century ruins of the Old Princely Court (Curtea Veche), the capital city of Wallachian princes since Vlad the Impaler (Dracula), lay in the vicinity of underground mural remains of 17th-century buildings. The archeological site on the main street of Lipscani brings to light the red-brick ruins of one of the many inns built in this area, which got its name from the town of Lipsca (Leipzig). The German city was at that time the trading partner for the local merchants and artisans who had their busy shops on what was, from the mid 16th to late 19th century, the most important commercial area of Bucharest. The narrow streets around the Old Court were named after the artisan guilds that had their workshops here (for example Selari Street). Many churches and monasteries, built in the local Brancovenesc architectural style, dot the Old Town. Also known as the town of inns, the neo-classical facades of the Lipscani buildings erected after 1850 are part of the modernization of the capital city under the rule of King Carol I. All important historical buildings constructed during this time on the ruins of old inns, from the Central Bank to the National History Museum, were designed by French and German architects. 4 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
LANDMARKS THE CENTRAL BANK - BNR 25 Lipscani St MAP p13 C4 1
HANUL LUI MANUC (MANUC INN) 62-64 Franceza St, tel: 021.313.14.11 MAP p13 C4 2 Built near the Old Princely Court by an Armenian merchant known as Manuc Bei in 1806, the wooden inn’s open architecture, with its galleries that look upon a generous inner courtyard, was innovative for its time. Recently reopened after renovation works, the historical building today houses three restaurants, Romanian, Lebanese and Italian, and a café.
HANUL CU TEI (THE STREET INN) 63-65 Lipscani St MAP p13 C4 3 One of the few well preserved street inns, Hanul cu Tei was built in 1833 by two merchants, Anastasie Hagi Gheorghe Polizu and Ștefan Popovici, who owned
CURTEA VECHE (OLD PRINCELY COURT) 27-31 Franceza St, tel: 021.314.03.75 MAP p13 C4 4 Dating back to the 15th century, the Old Princely Court is a real slice of Bucharest history. Built during the reign of Vlad III (aka Dracula), it has since undergone restoration. Hitherto overlooked as a tourist attraction, efforts to improve and promote the Old Town should see Curtea Veche gain a deserved foothold on the visitor’s map.
VILACROSSE MACCA PASSAGE In between Calea Victoriei and Lipscani Street MAP p13 B4 5 A walk through the Vilacrosse passage can take you back in time to late 19th-century Bucharest, provided you visit it at the least crowded hours of the day. The passage, which now hosts numerous pubs and coffee shops, links Calea Victoriei to the Central Bank on Lipscani Street. The U-shaped skylight-covered passage was built in 1891 by Felix Xenopol and carries the name of Catalan architect Xavier Viacrosse, who moved to Bucharest and served as the capital’s chief architect from 1840BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 5
TOURIST INFO
Possibly the Old Town’s flagship landmark, the headquarters of BNR – Romania’s National Bank – is another neo-classical masterpiece, again with French architects at the helm. Constructed in 1885, the building boasts Corinthian columns and marble halls inside. Though its size and smartness put it somewhat at odds with ramshackle Lipscani, its grandeur is not dented.
several shops located over highceilinged cellars. Both the Lipscani and Blanari Street entrances are guarded by tall iron gates that used to be closed by night, for the safety of travelers and goods. Today, the inn hosts art galleries, antique shops, cafés and restaurants.
central staircase, transforming the place into a ball venue. Today it hosts the city’s museums, with a permanent urban and anthropological collection, as well as a pinacotheque which includes major Romanian and European painters.
RESTAURANTS
OLD TOWN
BELLINI Cuisine: Italian 2 Ion Ghica St, tel: 021.310.29.78 MAP p13 C3 7
Crama Domneasca 1850. The passage has two branches: Vilacrosse (which faces Lipscani) and Macca (name after the brother-in-law of the passage’s constructor). In between you can find, among other venues, an Egyptian-themed coffee shops, a Chinese restaurant, and the Opium Stage Club.
STAVROPOLEOS MONASTERY 4 Stavropoleos St, www.stavropoleos.ro MAP p13 C4 31 See Sightseeing, p 17
SUTU PALACE – BUCHAREST CITY MUSEUM 2 I.C. Bratianu Blv, tel: 021.315.68.58, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro MAP p13 C3 6 The lavish neo-Gothic style palace was built in 1832 by one of the wealthiest aristocratic families, the Sutus. Sculptor and decorator Karl Storck added a grand 6 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
If you are in the area and you crave a pizza or any other Italian “al forno” dish, this is the best place to go. Pasta fans should try their tortellini “al forno” or the “cannelloni della nona al forno”. The fish dishes are also a specialty, as is the wide range of pizzas. Another plus is the quality of the food.
CARU’ CU BERE Cuisine: Romanian 5 Stavropoleos St, tel: 021.313.75.60, 0726.282.373 MAP p13 B4 8 Be prepared for the full range of Romanian dishes served in the oldest beerhouse in the city. Opened in 1879, this historical landmark is one of the few venues in Bucharest preserved as such, with architecture that reminds visitors why Bucharest was once dubbed the “little Paris”. Distinctive elements include the murals, stained glass and carved cross-beams. Along with the beer, made to a secret original recipe, The Beer Cart is
TOURIST INFO
Where future meets the past The best way to pay in Bucharest Bucharest’s Old Town is the place where the capital city’s 553year history blends harmoniously with the vibrant rhythms of the 21st century. Sit and admire the slender silhouette of the Old Princely Court ruins from the open terrace of a trendy restaurant. In a space where tradition and change merge seamlessly, using your Visa card instead of cash to pay the restaurant bill feels like the natural choice. The vast majority of the coffee shops, terraces and restaurants in Bucharest accept Visa card payments. It's a more convenient and safer way to pay, as you don't need to carry large amounts of cash on you. Because most of the POS terminals accept Chip & PIN cards, you will probably need your PIN to pay by card. ADVERTORIAL
BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 7
OLD TOWN The Old Princely Court 8 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
also famous for its atmosphere. The place is packed all week.
LACRIMI SI SFINTI (TEARS AND SAINTS) Cuisine: Romanian
CHARME Cuisine: Mediterranean 12 Smardan St, tel: 021.311.19.22, www.charme.ro MAP p13 C4 9 A minimalist design, classy atmosphere and a well-balanced menu that combines some fine pasta dishes, including seafood and fish, with generous steaks and a good selection of desserts.
Cuisine: Turkish 46 Franceza St, tel: 021.312.30.34, www.thedivan.ro MAP p13 C4 10 They have a larger selection of kebabs on offer than their competitors and this includes beef, lamb, beef and lamb combo, chicken and marinated meat stuffed in an eggplant. It is vastly superior to other Turkish eateries in town and has a larger menu. The evening entertainment program comprises belly dancers.
LA BONNE BOUCHE Cuisine: French 30 Franceza St, tel: 0731.247.876, www.bistrovin.ro MAP p13 B4 11 One of the best French bistros in town is also one of the most crowded venues in the historical area (make a reservation). The classic menu includes both meat and fish dishes, while the wine list features special labels that are hard to find elsewher.
If your Romanian friends invite you to taste the “modern local cuisine”, make sure they have enough money to pay an extremely pricey bill that is not quite justified by the quality of the food. Owned by a famous local poet turned chef, the restaurant thrives more on his persona than on the local culinary specialties.
CRAMA DOMNEASCA Cuisine: Romanian 13-15 Selari St, tel: 0726.322.004, www.cramadomneasca.com MAP p13 C4 13 Serving up Romanian cuisine at its best, from the classic sour soups, “sarmale” and “mici”, to large pork steaks and eggplant salad, the restaurant located opposite the National Bank also has a good selection of house wines. The service is friendly and the live “taraf” music program lends the place its unique atmosphere.
BARS & PUBS ABSINTHERIE SIXTINA 1 Covaci St, tel: 021.310.35.66 MAP p13 C4 14 Under the “Liberte, egalite, absinthe” motto, the pub/café/bar offers a plethora of BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 9
TOURIST INFO
DIVAN
16 Sepcari St, tel: 0725.558.286, www.lacrimisisfinti.com MAP p13 C4 12
alcoholic beverages, from wines and beers (including a wide range of Belgian beers) to absinth, of course. The music is not too loud and not too commercial. Another plus is its capaciousness, as it takes up an entire floor of an old building, and never seems too crowded. Adding to the charm there is the small balcony, home to just one table with two chairs.
OLD TOWN
BIUTIFUL 7-8 Gabroveni St MAP p13 C4 15 The coolest new place on the crowded Old Town map, this bar is a happy combination of trendy interior design, excellent (yet affordable) food and good quality service. Both the beef burger and the chicken and lamb kafta served with tzatziki salad are worth trying, alongside one of the many choices of beer, wine and nonalcoholic drinks on the house list.
BEER O’CLOCK 4 Gabroveni St, tel: 0735.187.012, www.beeroclock.ro MAP p13 C4 16 Welcome to beer land, where even the most knowledgeable drinker can be pleasantly surprised by the taste of a new brand from the 164 kinds on offer at this beerhouse. The 30-page menu reads like a book, providing inside information on taste, ingredients and the brewing process. Prices range from RON 10 (about EUR 2) for a Czech Primator Dark pint to RON 10 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
300 (around EUR 66) for a Sink The Bismark Scottish beer with 41% alcohol.
INTERBELIC 1 Selari St, tel: 0722.100.193 MAP p13 C4 17 A well-hidden location, at the intersection of Blanari Street and Lipscani, the bar’s intimate atmosphere gives you those long awaited moments far from the madding crowd. The friendly staff and reasonably priced drinks make the place a target destination for locals and expats.
MOJO 14 Gabroveni St, tel: 0760.263.496, www.mojomusic.ro MAP p13 C4 18 Split between three levels, this British-themed joint has a roomy cellar, which hosts live rock, jazz, blues and folk bands and standup comedy, a bar on the ground floor and an upstairs karaoke lounge, open nightly, where even the most feeble attempts to sing are warmly applauded by the friendly crowd. In its short lifespan MoJo has established itself as something of an institution, thanks to the jolly atmosphere and events.
CAFÉS CHOCOLAT 12A Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.314.92.45 MAP p13 B4 19 Located right next door to Carul cu Bere, Chocolat stands out as a
OLD TOWN
unique mix of bistro, coffee shop, bakery and confectionery outlet to offer freshly made products, all using natural ingredients. There is a non-smoking section, and a terrace for warm days. The menu starts with brunch offerings, extending through salads, snacks and pasta to dinner varieties, a selection of cakes and pralines made with Belgium chocolate, pastry and French bread.
GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH 9 Smardan St, tel: 031.107.63.71, www.vangogh.ro MAP p13 C4 20 Classiness ooziness from the high ceiling, understated wooden furnishings and thick drapes at the entrance, and there’s a range of fresh, simple and appetizing eats and drinks appropriate for all times of the day. The delicious smoothies and luxury hot chocolates are just two of the many highlights. In summer you can avoid the smokiness by sitting on the terrace.
KLEIN CAFÉ 11 Smardan Str, at Rembrandt Hotel mezzanine, tel: 021.313.93.15 MAP p13 C4 21 Finding a quiet place in the bustling Bucharest Old Town can be a challenging task. Add to that the non-smoking policy and you have a unique and winning combination for Klein Café. 12 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
Located on the mezzanine of the Rembrandt Hotel, next door to Van Gogh Café, it can be easy to miss unless you are specifically looking for it. And if you do, you can expect friendly service in a cozy and relaxed setting. The place is good for business meetings or as an out-of-theoffice work space as it offers free wireless internet and a quiet spot in a central part of the city.
NIRVANA 16-20 Calea Victoriei, tel: 0722.658.126, MAP p13 B4 22 Located in the Vilacross Macca Passage, this high-ceilinged, two-storey cafe is one of the best places in town for Nargile smokers. The Italian house menu includes a wide variety of pizzas, at affordable prices.
VALEA REGILOR 16-20 Calea Victoriei, Macca-Villacross Passage, tel: 021.311.29.69 MAP p13 B3 23 The famous Turkish coffee prepared on sand, peppermint tea (erfe) and non-alcoholic wine (karkale) are only a few of the Oriental aromas that blend together in this beautifully decorated place located in the Villacross passage.
Sights & Museums Landmarks, Restaurants Bars & Pubs, Cafés
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SIGHTSEEING Romania's checkered history is written large on the face of its capital city, which boasts an eclectic mishmash of architectural styles and eye-catching structures. It's worth taking a while to stroll through the center of town; almost any wander will take you past some striking and attractive buildings. However, there are a few landmarks that merit being sought out. Most are on or around Calea Victoriei, one of the city's two main north-south thoroughfares, so easily visible on a walking tour.
ISTOCKPHOTO
The Arch of Triumph 14 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
LANDMARKS ARCH OF TRIUMPH Piata Arcul de Triumf, Sos Kiseleff MAP p32 A1 24 One of the first flagship pieces of Bucharest architecture visitors see en route into town from the airport, the current structure dates from 1936, though the site has hosted an arch since a wooden one was thrown up to commemorate Romania's independence in 1878. Soldiers still parade beneath to mark Romania's national day, and the arch is also a favorite for wedding photos.
THE ATHENAEUM 1-3 Franklin St, opposite the Hilton Hotel MAP p13 B1, p32 C4 25
BELLU CEMETERY 249 Calea Serban Voda, tel: 021.636.35.71, www.bellu.ro
Calea Victoriei, opposite the History Museum MAP p13 B4, p32 C6 26 Built in 1900, this must rank as one of the most attractive banks anywhere. Capped by a dome, it features an eclectic array of architectural styles and exudes Renaissance elegance. Arches, columns and spires all compete for your attention. When lit up at night it is glorious.
GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM / CANTACUZIONO PALACE 141 Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.318.14.50, www.georgeenescu.ro MAP p32 B3 27 Romania's most illustrious musical son is celebrated more famously in the biannual festival, but his museum is housed in the Cantacuzino Palace, a lesser known Bucharest gem. Dating back to the early 20th century and resulting from an architectural collaboration, sculptures adorn the elegant façade, creating a truly impressive spectacle.
PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL The final resting place of almost every great Romanian academic, artist, writer, musician, poet and politician is the Bellu Cemetery. Many of the graves have special monument-like designs. Since 2011 the site has been included in the European Cemeteries Route, a mosaic of Europe’s diverse funerary art and customs over the last two centuries.
21 Dealul Mitropoliei St. MAP p32 C6 28 Considered one of the most most valuable historical monuments of Wallachian religious art of the 17th century, the site has been the center of the Romanian Orthodox Church since those days and houses the cathedral and the residence of the head of BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 15
SIGHTSEEING
Probably the city's most beautiful building, the Athenaeum is a neoclassical delight. It opened in 1888 after being made possible by public donations. Catch a concert for an opportunity to admire the fabulous frescoes.
CEC PALACE / THE SAVINGS BANK
SIGHTSEEING
Stavropoleos Monastery is located in the heart of the Old Town the church, Patriarch Daniel Ciobotea. Although the building has had a number of facelifts, the majority of the cathedral’s structure is still original, built between 1654 and 1658.
PEOPLE'S PALACE 2-4 Izvor St, tel: 021.316.03.00 MAP p13 A5, p32 B6 29
BYZANTINE BUCHAREST Byzantium’s spirit is kept alive in the old churches of Bucharest, whose architecture, frescoes, altar pieces and religious sermons mirror life in Emperor Constantine’s Empire. KRETZULESCU CHURCH
Though often dubbed a monstrosity and a monument to Ceausescu's megalomania, there is no denying that the dictator's vanity project, whose records include the world's largest civilian administrative building, most expensive administrative building and heaviest building, is a memorable edifice. The tour, while not matching the outside impact, is well worth taking. 16 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
47 Calea Victoriei MAP p13 B2, p32 C5 30 Constructed in 1722 in the same Brancoveanu style, the red-brick church was built by boyar Kretzulescu, one of Prince Brancoveanu’s sons-in-law. The exterior frescoes have been preserved in their original state, while the interior was the work of a famous 19th-century painter, Gheorghe Tattarascu.
STAVROPOLEOS MONASTERY 4 Stavropoleos, www.stavropoleos.ro MAP p13 C4, p32 C6 31 Built in 1724, Stavropoleos Church is one of the most outstanding examples of the Brancoveanu style – an original baroque synthesis of Eastern and Western architecture created under Prince Constantin Brancoveanu’s reign (1688-1714). The vegetal motifs which adorn the façade and the loggia blend harmoniously with the interior and exterior frescoes depicting biblical scenes and the carved wood iconostasis, among which one can admire the bicephalous eagle, the emblem of Byzantium. The building gets a three-star mention in the Michelin travel guide.
STAVROPOLEOS COLLECTION 4 Stavropoleos, www.stavropoleos.ro
ROMANIAN MEDIEVAL ART GALLERY Within the National Art Museum of Romania, 49-53 Calea Victoriei, www.mnar.ro MAP p13 B2, p32 C5 32
MUSEUMS ANTIPA MUSEUM 1 Sos Kiseleff, tel: 021.312.88.63, www.antipa.ro. Tue-Sun 10:00-20:00 MAP p32 B3 33 Created almost 100 years ago at the intiative of Grigore Antipa, the Romanian biologist known for the invention of the diorama, the National Museum of Natural History hosts permanent exhibitions of Romanian fauna and animals. Over 2 million exhibits aregathered in different thematic collections: zoology, paleontology, minerals, rocks and ethnography.
CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM People’s Palace, 2-4 Izvor St, wing E4, entrance from Calea 13 Septembrie, www.mnac.ro MAP p13 A5, p32 B6 34 Located in Ceausescu’s controversial mammoth building, the museum hosts temporary modern art exhibitions in its vast halls, which create a strange yet welcoming space. The museum holds one of the most interesting communist kitsch art collections, unfortunateBR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 17
SIGHTSEEING
Within the monastery precincts are a library and a refectory displaying a small but valuable collection of old religious objects, which includes icons painted on wood and glass, religious artifacts, decorative art and fragments of fresco recovered from churches demolished during the communist regime. The monastery's library holds over 8,000 books and manuscripts, including titles on theology.
Holding the largest collection of its kind in Romania, the museum’s more than 9,500 works include icons, fresco fragments, embroideries and textiles, religious manuscripts and rare books, silver, jewelry, woodcarvings, metalwork and ceramics. On display is a selection of approximately 900 works, spanning five centuries of artistic achievement, from the late 14th century through to the early 19th century.
The Peasant Museum won the 1996 European Museum of the Year Award 18 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
ly not on display. Although access is not very easy, it’s worth the trip since the museum’s roof terrace offers one of the best aerial views of Bucharest
COTROCENI PALACE AND MUSEUM 1 Geniului Blv, tel: 021.317.31.06, www.muzeulcotroceni.ro Built between 1679 and 1681 by Prince Șerban Cantacuzino in the baroque style of the time, the Cotroceni complex served as the official residence of different rulers. Queen Mary left her unmistakable mark on the place, which bears the proof of her artistic affinities. Cotroceni is the only official residence in Romania that has been used for over four centuries, with the palace and medieval cellars still existing today.
NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR)
Besides its European Art gallery, the museum located in the Royal Palace holds the most important collection of Romanian modern art, with 8,600 paintings and 2,000 sculptures (including works by Brancusi). Approximately 700 works offer an overview of the evolution of artistic trends from the early 19th century – when art in Romania became entirely secular – through to late 19th to early 20th century, the age of the great masters of national art. For the Medieval Art Collection, see Byzantine Bucharest.
12 Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.315.82.07, www.mnir.ro MAP p13 B4, p32 C6 36 From prehistoric times, through the gold treasury of Dacian tribes and the Roman Conquest to the modern era, the museum’s 60 halls exhibit historical artifacts, documents and art that connect us to the cradle of European civilization in the neolithyc age (6,500-3,500 BC), located on today’s Romanian territory.
ROMANIAN PEASANT MUSEUM 3 Sos Kiseleff, Sector 1, tel: 021.317.96.60, 021.317.96.61, www.muzeultaranuluiroman.ro MAP p32 B2 37 Relaunched on February 5, 1990, the Romanian Peasant Museum marks the continuation of a long tradition, which started when the first autonomous museum for peasant art was established in 1906. Today the venue is more than a static exhibition of somewhat exotic country life, offering a forum for creativity, urban socializing and the reinvention of lost values.
VILLAGE MUSEUM Admission is RON 6. 28-30 Sos Kiseleff, sector 1 The Village Museum is an openair ethnographic museum in Herastrau Park, showcasing traditional Romanian village life. Covering over 100,000 sqm, it contains an estimated 300 authentic peasant farms and houses brought from all over BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 19
SIGHTSEEING
49-53 Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.313.30.30, www.mnar.ro MAP p13 B2, p32 C4 35
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM
Romania and reassembled bit by bit in the park, clustered and arranged to show the real pattern of Romanian villages.
SOUVENIR SHOPS BUCHAREST SOUVENIR SHOP (SUVENIR DE BUCURESTI) 15 Academiei St, www.suvenirdebucuresti.ro MAP p32 C5 38
Shoppers can admire and buy folk costumes, embroidered blouses (the English for the Romanian “ie”), raw silk headdresses, ceramics, wooden objects, woolen folk weaves, as well as useful handmade objects and home decorations, such as embroideries, blankets, crocheted table cloths, lacy patterned fabrics, crocheted drapes and curtains.
SOUVENIR SHOP An art gallery, where every piece can be acquired, it sells small statuettes, ceramics, glass objects, jewelry and accessories, oil paintings and books. Even the most demanding souvenir hunter will find something to buy!
SIGHTSEEING
PEASANT MUSEUM SOUVENIR SHOP 3 Sos Kiseleff, tel: 021.317.96.61. Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00 MAP p32 B2 39 Although the prices are high, you can buy quality traditional peasant clothes, icons and naïve art, as well as artistically unique tapestries, wooden and glass icons, handmade metallic objects, tiles, vegetable thread knitwear, folklore dolls and souvenirs.
www.souvenir-shop.com.ro, daily 10:00 - 20:00 Located in the Old Town area, this outlet has both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts, from postcards to T-shirts with funny messages, such as “Send more tourists, last ones tasted great” – signed by Dracula.
THOMAS ANTIQUES 19 Covaci St, tel: 0752.44.08.18, www.thomas-antiques.ro, Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00 MAP p13 C4, p32 D6 41 Thomas Antiques is not a typical souvenir shop – you can find here everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, all in a place where you can drink a coffee or a beer from an old chair or sofa.
ROMARTIZANA Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel:021.313.14.65, www.romartizana.com.ro MAP p32 C6 40 The gallery shop sells authentic folk art objects that typify the valuable and traditional folklore of the old Romanian regions. 20 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
UNIVERSITATE PASSAGE SOUVENIR SHOP Between Nicolae Balcescu Blv and Regina Elisabeta Blv MAP p32 D5 42 A small souvenir shop can be found in Universitate Passage, near the Tourist Information
Center. Postcards, mugs, traditional clothing and small statuettes are on sale.
GUIDED TOURS
GUIDED BUCHAREST Tour type: walking tour, cycle tour Costs: Free tour (walking), EUR 17 (cycle) Start time: 18:00 every day. Tel: 0745.593.938, 0744.314.110, www.guided-bucharest.com
BUCHAREST CITY TOUR Tour type: Bucharest Sightseeing, Bucharest Panoramic & Mogosoaia Palace, Bucharest Panoramic & Snagov Monastery, Bucharest Panoramic & Walking Tour Costs: from EUR 29 Tel: 021.232.03.31, 0735.525.710, www.bucharestcitytour.com If you are looking for interesting sites and to hear the story of the “Little Paris”, these tours can help. Generally, the fee includes pick-up and drop-off at your location in Bucharest, transport by car/minibus, a map of the city and guide services in English.
SIGHTSEEING
CULTURAL TRAVEL AND TOURS Tour type: Past and Present in Bucharest Architecture, La Belle Epoque a la Bucharest, Unearthing Bucharest’s history, Bucharest in Communist Times, Spiritual Break, Dracula’s Original Haunts, Art & History. Costs: from EUR 29, depending on tour selected and group size. Tel: 021.336.31.63, 0724.718.848, www.cttours.ro To discover something more specific, the answer is here. These tours range from explorations of the city’s arts, mediaeval history, commercial past and eclectic French architecture to a journey of discovery into Communist Bucharest and the daily life of the city’s inhabitants. 22 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
Over the course of more than two hours, one can explore the eclectic architecture and hidden attractions of the city, while unraveling the stories of the old and new Bucharest. Tours on bike depart at 15:30 daily, on request and with limited places. Booking at least six hours in advance is necessary. The EUR 17 (RON 75) fee includes bike, helmet, guide and snack.
HISTORIC HOUSES OF BUCHAREST Tour type: architectural Bucharest from different periods. Costs: from EUR 7 (RON 35). Tel: 0728.323.272, www.historo.wordpress.com Among other activities, architect Valentin Mandache offers expert advisory services on period and traditional properties in Romania. His tours contain analysis and opinions on period buildings, architectural heritage and traditional habitats from Romania’s historical provinces. The city tour is comparable with a back-in-time story of the buildings of Bucharest with details from when they were built, the historical background and sometimes some juicy tidbits about the inhabitants of the buildings.
RESTAURANTS Business Review gives you a selection of top Bucharest restaurants, organized by the type of cuisine, including our recommendations for the best Romanian food restaurants. For the top restaurants in the Old Town, see the Old Town section. You can check the full-length versions of all the reviews by our resident restaurant critics on www.business-review.ro.
FISH
FRENCH
MESOGIOS
BISTRO EPOQUE
49 Jean Louis Calderon St, tel: 021.317.13.55 MAP p32 D4 43
15 C Intrarea Aurora, Epoque Hotel, Cismigiu Garden area tel: 021.313.32.32 MAP p32 B5 45
The oldest and most reliable fish house in town serves a wide variety of fresh fish cooked in a straight, simple, Mediterranean manner.
OSHO FISH 19 Primaverii St, tel: 021.568.30.31 MAP p32 B1 44 Alaskan crab “legs”, live lobsters, cuttlefish, prawns of every size, shrimps in samphire grass and so much more are displayed on the chiller! This is the cheapest fish house in town, as it imports directly. The daily catch is listed on a blackboard. You can find parrot fish, “monkfish”, sole, turbot, red gurnard and captain fish. The Romanian version of fish soup is available, with a base of borsch and lashings of dill. 24 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
With the two Michelin-starred chef Guy Martin behind the menu, French gastronomic creativity and quality are ensured. The “cumin flavored duck liver pate” is in itself an experience, as is the “milk-fed veal with green asparagus and goose liver ravioli”. The wine list is impeccable, showcasing, along with the French bottles, a top-quality selection of Romanian wines.
CANTINE DE NICOLAI 15 Povernei St, tel: 0725.210.608 MAP p32 C3 46 Even if the 1960s menu is oldfashioned, whatever chef Nicolai Tand produces is perfect! Order the “St Jacques (scallops) with puree potato and shaved fresh
black truffle”. The scallops are grilled for a few seconds so they arrive moist, correctly undercooked and generous with five of the beauties. Or the soft, flakey, moist “saddle of cod”, another dish brought to perfection.
FUSION COLLAGE 10-12 Ion Mihalache Blv, tel: 0758.101.040, www.collageworld.ro MAP p32 B2 47 If you have just finished your visit to the Peasant Museum, then a stop at this “creative cuisine” high-end restaurant just across the street is a must.
THE LOFT 64 Iancu de Hunedoara entrance opposite Mega Image on Stefan Cel Mare Blv. MAP p32 C3 48
MARKET 8 8 Serban Petrescu, off Dorobanti Square, tel: 0734.808.080, www.market8.ro MAP p32 C1 49
INTERNATIONAL ARCADE 8 Ion Cantacuzino, tel: 0753.999.333, www.restaurantarcade.ro MAP p32 B1 50 Over the last nine years Arcade has become a gastronomic institution in this town. It is best known for its fabulous location and vast summer terrace, but also for the warm, homely villa ambiance. This is a top quality, sophisticated chophouse that can compete with the best alternative restaurants in town that could cost twice the price.
DONCAFE BRASSERIE 7 Ankara St. tel: 0746.222.444, www.doncafe-brasserie.ro. MAP p32 C2 51 Located near Piata Dorobanti, this brasserie is a relaxing spot for a long sit-down amid its rich, dark wood and sumptuous seating. On weekdays Doncafe’s plat du jour consists of an international rotation that includes a BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 25
RESTAURANTS
With a state of the art spacious design, The Loft serves food which would be at home in Paris. All dishes are beautifully presented, although the service doesn’t match their standard. Order the excellent ‘clam risotto’ cooked in true keeping with the traditional standards of fine French cuisine or the tender ‘sea bass fillet’ accompanied by a wonderful puree, shaved with a generous slice of fresh truffle.
Located in one of the posh areas of Bucharest, Dorobanti, the restaurant’s eclectic interior decoration mirrors the imaginative flavor combinations of Asian spices and French cuisine on the menu. For starters try the ‘steamed scallops with a ginger and spring onion emulsion’, beautifully presented with three Queen scallops on a thick green bed of sauce. The ‘halibut with miso and lemon risotto’ is another perfect choice, with the risotto packaged in a tennis sized ball.
burger, Moroccan couscous and chicken tikka masala. There’s also a selection of Italian and other European mains, including pork osso bucco with 1,001 aromas, several meat and fish dishes, and some typical homemade pasta choices.
RESTAURANT GINGER 194 Calea Grivitei, tel: 021.223.47.15, 0752.167.703 It is on the wrong side of town, but worth the drive to get there. With an excellent array of familiar main courses priced around EUR 8, you can complement your meal with a bottle or two of Chateau Petrus 2001, a snip at just EUR 3,300. Yes, it has the finest and largest wine cellar in the entire land. At the other end of the scale, they have superb house wines starting at EUR 5.
AQUA 7-9 Sos Nordului, tel: 0731.888.999, www.aquachique.ro Possibly the trendiest place on the Herastrau Lake embankment, providing a gorgeous view, Aqua offers a well-balanced Italian menu, from which we recommend the ‘truffles beef’, ‘black onion beef fillet’ and ‘black mussel risotto’.
AQUARIUM 4 Alecu Russo St, tel: 021.211.28.20, www.restaurantaquarium.ro MAP p32 D3 53 Over the past 12 years, Aquarium has defended its reputation as one of the best Italian restaurants in Bucharest, due to its constant quality and the excellently cooked pasta and fish dishes.
LA CUCINA
ITALIAN
90 Calea 13 Septembrie, JW Marriott Hotel, tel: 021.403.10.10
AL SAPORE
RESTAURANTS
7 Blvd. Unirii, tel: 0723.572.534, www.alsapore.ro MAP p32 C6 52 Relative newcomer Al Sapore is a Mediterranean restaurant for refined connoisseurs of the culinary art and luxury services. Chef Gabriele Orazio, originally from the Italian region of Marche, has put together a menu of “marchigiane” specialties with fish and seafood cooked from family recipes that go back over 60 years. The extensive wine list includes bottles from Romania, Italy and France. 26 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
With a decor reminiscent of a Tuscan farm kitchen and a menu designed by the new chef Carsili that includes authentic pasta recipies and a wide range of pizza, this restaurant offers a complete and delicious Italian food experience.
NOVI AQUARIUM 111-113 Calea Floreasca, tel: 031.405.05.97, www.noviaquarium.ro MAP p32 D2 54 Novi Aquarium is the new incarnation of the long-standing fash-
JW Steakhouse ionable eatery Aquarium. With a sumptuous interior, this newcomer oozes class and must be one of the most sophisticated looking restaurants in Bucharest. The ambience is excellent, and the menu is strong on fish and pasta dishes.
RESTAURANTS
OSTERIA GIOIA 16 Ion Mihalache Blv, tel: 021.311.37.50, www.osteriagioia.ro MAP p32 A2 55 One of the best Italian restaurants in town. From the starters list try the delicious ‘oven backed pancakes with Fontina cheese and porcini mushrooms’. However, the menu’s forte is its pastas. We recommend the sophisticated ‘taglioni with von28 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
gole clams and arugula’ or the simple ‘linguine with tomatoes and fresh basil’.
ROBERTO’S Athenee Palace Hilton Hotel, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, 021.303.37.77 MAP p32 C4 56 After a complete facelift, Roberto’s is back among the top restaurants in Bucharest. There’s now a semi-open kitchen, and the whole place smells like the interior of a new Bentley, all polished wood and rich leather aromas from the new seats. The menu boasts dishes from a number of Italian regions such as “swordfish Beccaficu” (a Palermo dish usually served with nut and vegetable stuffed sar (a combo of bread, olives, garlic,
balsamic, onion, tomato and basil). Prices are reasonable and Roberto’s can compete on an equal footing with any other quality restaurant in town.
ROMANIAN BISTRO ATHENEU 3 Episcopiei St, tel: 021.313.49.00 MAP p32 C4 57 With a classic traditional menu that includes well cooked dishes from several regions of Romania and around such as the Transylvanian specialty ‘cabbage a la Cluj’ or the southern Greek influenced ‘musaca’, this small and cozy bistro is a culinary landmark for both locals and visitors. Before dessert, for which we recommend the pumpkin pie, you can order a Turkish coffee. If you visit the Enescu Museum on Calea Victoriei, enjoy a nice Romanian lunch at the bistro’s sister restaurant, La Taifas, on 16 Gh. Manu St, just around the corner.
BUREBISTA 195 Calea Mosilor, tel: 021.210.97.04 www.restaurantburebista.ro MAP p32 E5 58
4 Sos. Kiseleff, www.casadoina.ro MAP p32 B2 59 Without any doubt, the best Romanian food in town, with well-balanced traditional dishes such as the excellent trout soup and the fried organic chicken with garlic sauce. At this time of year one traditionally orders as starters eggplant salad and grilled pepper salad. The restaurant is also one of the city’s historical landmarks. The generous garden with old trees surrounds a two-storey villa (classified as an architectural monument), was built in 1892 in the Romanian neo-classical style.
LOCANTA JARISTEA 50-52 Georgescu St., tel: 0744.240.125, 0721.961.936, www.jaristea.ro A place that you shouldn’t miss, mostly for its Bucharest of the 1930s ‘joie de vivre’ atmosphere created by the décor and the live music program. The impeccable service is another plus at this themed restaurant. The food is well judged, as is the wine list.
STEAK HOUSES JW STEAKHOUSE 90 Calea 13 Septembrie, JW Marriott Hotel, tel: 021.403.10.10 Pure Americana, with a selection of the best of the USA, from where all of the produce is imported. BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 29
RESTAURANTS
Named after one of the brave Dacian tribes’ kings, who defe nded the land against the Roman conquest, this ethnic-looking place has one of the largest menus of Romanian dishes, including specialties such as the delicious fish eggs (‘icre’), pork skin (sorici) and last, but not least, wild boar and deer steak. In the evening, there is a live traditional music program.
CASA DOINA
The steaks are aged for 21 days at 4 degrees before you get your teeth into them. Side dishes are chosen with the same care as the meat. The House’s steakhouse concept has been imported intact from the group’s flagship hotel, Grosvenor House in London, where it is a success.
has been lavished equally on the menu, which is based on and features quotes from the novel. The cuisine is surprisingly good for a theme eatery, although vegetarians might be struggling. Call ahead to check what night old Vlad is doing his bit.
EXCALIBUR OSHO 19 Primaverii St, tel: 021.568.30.31, www.osho-restaurant.ro MAP p32 B1 60
39-41 Academiei St, tel: 021.314.56.70, 0730.190.364, www.restaurantexcalibur.ro MAP p32 C5 62
They modestly call themselves a steakhouse, but it is much, much more than that. If you enter it from the front end of the building, you will find yourself in a shop which sells all of the chophouse’s products, ‘over the counter’ at retail prices. This includes not only their extensive range of meat products, but an array of up to 20 Italian cheeses and salamis. Add to that a rich list of French and Italian fine wines, and you have a ‘deli where you can dine’.
The tavern style eatery promises victuals from the middle ages, served by appropriately attired wenches and without modern conveniences such as knives and forks, so be prepared to get thy hands dirty! The food, which is basically meaty Romanian, is humorously styled as Sir Lancelot’s Lunch and Sir Arthur’s Dinner. The big round tables are great for groups. Other outlets can be found at 3941 Academiei St 3 and 9 Blanari St (Old Town).
THEMED RESTAURANTS
TURKISH GOLDEN FALCON
RESTAURANTS
COUNT DRACULA CLUB 8A Splaiul Independentei St, tel: 021.312.13.53, www.count-dracula.ro MAP p32 C6 61 Cheesy vampiric fun doesn’t get much tackier than at Count Dracula Club, which hosts twice weekly visits from the Impaler himself (well, a very amusing impersonator). The atmosphere is suitably creepy and attention 30 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012
18-20 Hristo Botev St, tel: 021.314.28.25, www.goldenfalcon.ro MAP p32 D5 63 After more than 12 years of existence, this place still serves the best Turkish food in town. The largest selection of delicious kebabs and the wide range of starters are pluses that have probably helped it beat off the competition.
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Sights & Museums Restaurants
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