Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011
INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY
REFLECTING ON FALL
LARRIMOR’S 249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh 412-471-5727 The Galleria, Mt. Lebanon 412-344-5727 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
FEATURES 4 8 26 28 34 44
Welcome Letter Art Is My Passion: Jack Tomayko Family House Uncommon Loyalty Winchester Thurston Allegheny Valley School
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FASHION 16 38 40 48 56
Women’s Fashion Profile: A Decade of Agave Style: Trends for Men Life Is But a Dream Why Style Matters
DEPARTMENTS 14 22 36 64 68
Ask Forum for Her Food: Cooking With the Stars Ask Forum for Him World Scene End Page: Closet Therapy
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
Passion for Life 15MilMil15 Suit
LARRIMOR’S
Dear Friends, Please turn the pages of this FORUM Magazine carefully and thoughtfully. In addition to beautiful fall fashions and stylish essays, you will learn much about our community and the work of extraordinary individuals and organizations that are giving back to our city so that our children and our region prosper. Giving back to the community is a privilege. To those of us at Larrimor’s, this embodies a deep commitment to making a difference among the diverse neighborhoods and individuals that we proudly serve. This legacy of giving is one that we have nurtured since our founding in 1939. And this core, enduring philosophy is one that we intend to continue well into our future. Over the years we have supported countless charities. While their individual missions may differ, their collective efforts have had a broad and significant impact. For at-risk children and families. Arts and humanities. Science and education. Environment and world peace. Public television and public health. The historical and emerging needs of our community speak to an enduring duty to lend a hand where and whenever possible. Our community is our home. It is the embodiment of where we live, work and play. And it deserves the very best we have to offer. Thanks to our customers and our associates, Larrimor’s has prospered and grown over the past seven decades. And with that success comes responsibility: to give back to the community and to the city that have given so much to us in return. Please consider doing the same whenever and wherever you can. With gratitude and appreciation,
Carl Slesinger, Lisa Slesinger and Tom Michael Co-owners, Larrimor’s
Comfort you can’t wait to get home to.
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Art is my passion JACK TOMAYKO:
Business owner by day, art collector in evening and weekends.
BY COLLEEN C. DERDA
O
NE OF JACK TOMAYKO’S FAVORITE PAINTINGS features a New York City tavern. The bar in Frank Herbert Mason’s Little Italy gained notoriety because of the painting and because the building became a location for movies such as The Godfather III and episodes of The Sopranos television series.
But it’s not the building that interests Tomayko. It’s the painting itself. It’s about how the artist captured dignity in his subjects’ faces. It’s about the painting’s “light effect.” And it’s about how the artist applied the oils and the type of canvas he used. “Frank Mason spent years investigating techniques and materials used by the Old Masters,” says Tomayko, a long-time art collector. “Little Italy is a great example of his classical style infused with impressionistic flair. The painting points yet again to why Frank Mason is one of the most acclaimed American artists of our time.”
Art Collector and Entrepreneur Tomayko has developed his innate sense of art with years of promoting gifted artists such as Mason. London-based artist Paige Bradley has also captured his attention, as has Mexican sculptor Gustavo Torres. Tomayko showcases these and other artists at private and public events. His annual open house in Shadyside is anticipated by friends and buyers alike. He works with a number of businesses in the community, including Richard Lawrence Interiors and the Inn on Negley, to promote regional artists and offer their works for sale. And his own offices are chock full of art.
Tomayko owns a portfolio of integrated healthcare companies and services that specialize in diagnostic imaging. Among other honors, he was named the 2011 Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year in Western Pennsylvania for his work in health services. The Tomayko Group of businesses fills his daylight hours, and TomaykoArts fills his evenings and weekends. Current projects include promoting Rivers of Steel, an art exhibition at Point Park University celebrating Pittsburgh’s industrial heritage over the past century. The show features works by Aaron Gorson and other artists of regional and national acclaim. Tomayko played a key role in developing the university’s Lawrence Hall Gallery and arranging noteworthy exhibitions by Associated Artists of Pittsburgh and individual artists. To mark the gallery opening in 2009, Tomayko commissioned an almost life-size bronze sculpture by Paige Bradley and donated it to the university. Tomayko also arranged a Frank Mason solo exhibit that year, but sadly, the artist died only months before.
Little Italy 1979, by Frank Mason
“Frank was excited about the exhibition because he dedicated his life to teaching,” says Tomayko. The collector and artist had a long-standing relationship, and Tomayko now works with Mason’s wife Anne to promote and sell the artist’s remaining works. This spring the Pittsburgher returned to New York City to bring yet another group of patrons to acquire art at the late artist’s studio, which Anne maintains above the tavern depicted in Little Italy.
Frank Herbert Mason: a light in the dark Mason has an international reputation for his classical-style paintings, his commitment to preserving traditional methods, and his dedication to encouraging public participation in art conservation issues, says Tomayko. The artist expressed strong disapproval of restoration practices used on Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel. “He was contrary to the whole stream of thought of the art world,” says Anne Mason in a new documentary, A Light in the Dark: The Art & Life of Frank Mason, which Tomayko hopes to screen in Pittsburgh. Mason influenced generations of artists as a teacher for more than 50 years at the renowned Art Students League of New York. He frequently traveled to Europe to teach classes on lost techniques and to take on portrait commissions. As a young man the artist also traveled to western Pennsylvania for portrait commissions arranged by his brother, who lived in the area. A few of these patron families and former students attended the Mason exhibition in Pittsburgh in 2009. Little Italy was on display in the show. Today, the painting hangs in Tomayko’s office suite, one of the many locations where the collector displays his art. “I have more than 30 Frank Mason paintings and a selection of works by other distinguished artists available to view, many of which are for sale,” Tomayko says. “Art is my passion, and I enjoy when fellow art lovers see what I see. It’s particularly rewarding when I’m showcasing works by up-and-coming artists and helping people who have never before collected art.”
Tomayko donated Freedom Bound by Paige Bradley to Point Park University
A trailer for the new Frank Mason documentary is available at www.frankmason.org. For a private appointment to view works by Mason and other artists offered for sale, contact TomaykoArts at 412-481-1566.
GALLERY PHOTO BY TOM BELL JACK TOMAYKO PHOTO BY TOM BELL LITTLE ITALY PHOTO BY DAVID ASCHKENAS
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ASKFORUM Q:
I wear jeans almost everywhere, but wish I had alternatives. Can you recommend some other stylish options? Colored denim is the way to go for fall 2011. Not your typical jeans, the new colored denim adds personality to all kinds of tops and jackets. We love a bright jean (preferably skinny ankle length with heels or boots) worn with a contrasting bright top, or else with neutrals. As for your regular blue denim jeans, slim is still in but so are wide legs and flares. You really need both styles this season.
Q:
I own a few scarves but am not sure how to wear them. Any ideas?
Q:
Are leggings still in style? (I see so many women wear them who shouldn’t...)
Most definitely yes! Leggings are a great way to add a youthful flair to almost any outfit. They make mature women look young and chic, they cover winter-white legs when there’s no time to get a tan, and they’re generally very slimming. Our main caveat: leggings are not pants! Make sure to wear a long enough top so that your derrière is completely covered. If you don’t own the right long tops (and there are plenty of gorgeous ones in our store for fall), you can wear your leggings with a flowy dress or even a pencil skirt and high-heeled wedges. In fact, good-quality leggings make everything you own look just a little more hip. Come into the store and we’ll be happy to show you how.
14
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA
Scarves and shawls are bigger than ever for fall 2011, in cashmere, silk and blends. Fold a large square diagonally and drape it around your shoulders. (Keep one in your handbag if you tend to get cold.) Or take a long oblong, fold it in half and put the ends through the loop (very European) or else wrap it a few times around your neck or waist, or even your handbag. Stop by and we’d be happy to demonstrate. And while you’re here, check out our newly arrived scarves in fabulous colors and textures. With a simple top and trousers, the scarf makes the outfit (and makes a perfect gift if you’re unsure of sizes)!
(;&/86,9(/< $7 /$55,025路6
by lisa slesinger | photography by tom cwenar
LARRIMOR’S FALL FASHION
ETRO < MAX MARA
VALENTINO RED MOSCHINO >
LARRIMOR’S FALL FASHION
ROBERT RODRIGUEZ <VINCE
food
WINE RECEPTIONS AND TASTINGS PROVIDE AN OPPORTUNITY TO GET UP-CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CULINARY HEROES.
COOKING WITH THE STARS
PURE HEAVEN FOR A FASHION FOODIE. BY SUSAN F. SIDOR t’s a crisp fall day, perfect for a bike ride in the park or brunch with friends at an outdoor cafe. But thanks to the French Culinary Institute, I am instead joining 200 other food enthusiasts at the third annual New York Culinary Experience. The event raises money for the The Future Chefs Scholarship Fund, enabling aspiring chefs to attend culinary institutes. It’s also a unique opportu-
nity to spend two days with the world’s most renowned chefs. For foodies, tasting a truly great dish is pure bliss. But cooking side by side with illustrious chefs like Todd English, Morimoto, Marcus Samuelsson and Jacques Torres, among many others, is ecstacy. Participants attend two classes each day. Between morning and afternoon sessions, lunch seminars feature conversations with
key experts. In the evening, wine receptions and tastings provide yet another opportunity to get up-close and personal with culinary heroes. Unlike other “fantasy food camps” I’ve attended, these classes were truly interactive. For starters, a pastry class with Gina di Palma, who insists that baking need not be an exact science: even if results vary, it will likely still be
Mediterranean SHADYSIDE
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2000 Smallman St Pittsburgh, PA 15222 412.261.6565 Pan-Asian SHADYSIDE
5847 Ellsworth Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15232 412.362.5656 Japanese/Sushi SHADYSIDE
5849 Ellsworth Ave Pittsburgh, PA 15232 412.362.6198 Funky Fresh Cal-Mex PITTSBURGH
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Previous page, left: David Bouley with his students Right: Pan roasted duck This page, left: Todd English slices stuffed turkey breast. Right: English tops off his pumpkin lasagna. The next New York Culinary Experience will be held on April 28th and 29th, 2012. Email nyce@nymag.com to request more information.
Ingredients: 1 sugar pumpkin 7 sheets blanched rosemary pasta (substitute 7 sheets fresh pasta) 1/2 cup mascarpone cheese 1/4 cup ground amaretti cookie 1/4 cup ground almonds 1/2 cup parmesan cheese, grated butternut squash sauce watercress, for garnish For the Butternut Squash Sauce: (Yields 1 quart) 1 butternut squash 1 sprig rosemary, chopped salt and pepper, to taste 2 cups half and half 2 cups heavy cream 2 oz. butter 1/4 cup maple syrup Directions: Peel the squash and dice into large
pieces. Place the squash in sauce pot and add the liquids and rosemary. Slowly cook until the squash becomes soft. Drain off the liquid and reserve. Place the squash into blender. Add just enough liquid to cover, then blend and add butter. Adjust seasoning and consistency. Next, slice top off pumpkin, scoop out seeds and any membrane. Clean seeds and toast separately. Roast pumpkin at 400°F for 40 minutes, or until inside meat is cooked. Turn oven down to 350°F. Toss pasta in butternut squash sauce. Lay one sheet of pasta in the bottom of the pumpkin. Spread 1-2 tablespoons of mascarpone cheese on top, then sprinkle a layer of cookie, almond and parmesan. Continue layering until pumpkin is filled. Top with parmesan cheese and bake 30 minutes. Garnish with watercress and serve.
delicious! Next, bouillabaisse with Alain Sahlac, Dean of the French Culinary Institute, a warm, gentle Frenchman who instructed us in the fine art of putting lobsters to sleep. Then we prepared pan roasted duck and asparagus with Comté cheese foam with David Bouley, a fan of healthful artisanal cooking. My final class was Thanksgivingthemed, led by superstar chef Todd English, whose demonstrations were entertaining and informative with a side order of dry humor. To break with the whole-bird tradition, we made a cornbread stuffed boneless roast turkey breast (and even took home ingredients for our own Thanksgiving feasts). After spending my entire career around fashion’s who’s who, these wonderful food masters have become my new rockstars. I remain their ever-devoted groupie.
PREVIOUS PAGE BY SUSAN F. SIDOR; THIS PAGE BY LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES
PUMPKIN LASAGNA Recipe by Todd English
Relax and enjoy a delicious meal in our bar or dining room. Finish the evening with after dinner drinks in our “gatsby” style cigar lounge.
live entertainment: every thursday and friday | 8pm kitchen open til 11:00pm complimentary valet parking
2350 RAILROAD ST. (at the Cork Factory). PITTSBURGH, PA 15222. TEL: 412.281.6593 | WWW.CIOPPINOOFPITTSBURGH.COM
A PITTSBURGH TREASURE
The Pittsburgh area is full of civic treasures, some more well known than others. Winning sports teams, waterways, green spaces and an active arts and cultural community are all part of the patchwork of the unique Pittsburgh experience. There are other less recognized resources that are part of the fabric of Pittsburgh, such as a generous philanthropic community and a world renowned medical network. Inexorably linked to the medical community is a little-known treasure that complements medical services: Family House, Inc. Serving patients and families from all areas of Pennsylvania, the nation and the world, Family House has been an integral partner to all area hospitals for nearly three decades. Established in 1983 as a private 501 (c)( 3) by a dedicated group of community business and civic leaders, Family House has provided a special “home away from home” for patients and their families who are seeking medical treatment for serious or life-threatening illnesses in Pittsburgh. By offering convenient, safe and affordable housing in a home-like environment, through a network of support and compassion, Family House reduces the emotional and financial stress for people facing a desperate medical crisis in an unfamiliar city. Annually, Family House accommodates over 10,000 guests and since its inception, Family House has served as “home” for more than 120,000 individuals from all over the United States and many foreign countries. Currently, Family House operates four houses with 160 rooms in the Oakland and Shadyside neighborhoods of Pittsburgh. The stellar reputation of Pittsburgh as a world leader in medical care, organ transplantation and other treatments for serious medical situations has positioned Pittsburgh as a premiere medical destination. Located at the doorstep of many of Pittsburgh’s leading medical facilities, Family House offers guests myriad accommodations at a rate significantly lower than area hotels. Beyond the economical advantages, each guest room includes a private bath, television and wireless access. In addition, the numerous amenities include complimentary shuttles to the various hospitals, on-site laundry, state-of-the-art community kitchens, dining areas and living spaces, kitchen pantries, computer rooms, libraries and 24-hour security, as well as onsite management and exercise rooms. Most importantly, Family House creates a unique and supportive home that enables guests to heal comfortably. The unique shared spaces allow the patients and caregivers to mingle and form long-lasting bonds through shared meals, activities and experiences. The generosity of the Pittsburgh community helps to support Family House operations and programs. It is important to note that corporate and foundation giving, as well as individual giving, forms a basis for financial health for Family House. As the economy rebounds, the need for Family House continues and financial gifts of any size are meaningful. Annual gifts, bequests or monthly pledges are all utilized judiciously and with great care. Operating with only 18 full-time staff members, overhead at Family House is consciously kept lean so that the guests’ needs are of primary import. With such a small staff, a critical part of the operations of the four houses is the volunteer base. The nearly 300 volunteers help guide the families through their day-to-day experiences, provide comfort in a time of great need, perhaps cook a meal, share a story or just listen. The many hours of service given so generously by the volunteers makes a stay at Family House a true “family experience.” For more information about Family House and its mission, to make a contribution or volunteer, please visit www.familyhouse.org or call 412-647-5811.
E X P E R I E N C E S PA J E M A
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dom marchionno
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PHOTOS: ARCHIE CARPENTER
mike daly
15 YEARS
LARRIMORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S uncommon
LOYALTY Celebrating the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most loyal associates IN
A DAY WHEN CHANGE
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and the workplace is more transient than e v e r , w e a re t h r i l l e d t o w o r k w i t h a group of consummate professionals, who we believe are unprecedented in their collective loyalty... to our business, our industry and to their beloved customers.
From our office staff to our tailors and associates, at both One PNC Plaza and the Galleria, you will encounter people who have been with us for ten-plus years. Here, with tremendous gratitude, we pay special homage to the rarefied group who has worked with us for over ten.
JOSEPH DIDIANO
12 YEARS
I am so proud to work for Larrimor’s. Their stellar reputation among both customers and the community is surpassed only by their enduring dedication and commitment to their family of employees. — Paula Blodgett
LARRIMOR’S uncommon
LOYALTY Larrimor’s allows me to respond to the diverse needs of our clients and our market. Immediately. We all are empowered to be decision makers. And that trust and respect have been truly rewarding for me. — Mike Daly
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What Keeps You Up at Night? Nadav Baum, Executive Vice President
In a world where unexpected occurrences seem to happen almost every day – political uprisings in the Middle East, the tsunami and earthquake in Japan, record-breaking tornadoes here in the U.S., and even the demise of Osama Bin Laden – it is not unusual to ask oneself, “How are these events affecting my financial well-being?” “What happens when interest rates start going up? When will the market fall again? What about the price of oil?” These are all legitimate questions if you are anxious about the immediate future and want to protect your assets in the short term. However, as much as today’s headlines can be anxiety producing, the long term may be about what you should really be thinking. More specifically, you should be worried about outliving your assets and long-term threats such as inflation, taxes and distribution rates. You also may want to consider a plan to combat these conventional threats, not just the short-term fluctuations of the market.
Inflation. When planning for the long term, remember that the same dollar today will probably buy far less 5 years, 10 years and 20 years from now. Therefore, in my opinion, you need to make sure you have a growth portion to your allocation mix of stocks, bonds, alternatives and cash to combat inflation. That number can vary depending on your risk profile and how much volatility you are willing to accept in your portfolio.
Taxes. If you are a high income earner in the top tax bracket, ask your advisor if your investments are tax sheltered, tax deferred or tax free. The use of retirement accounts such as 401(k) plans, Roth IRAs, and traditional IRAs may be options for high income earners. Also, tax-free bonds can be one choice to produce an income stream. Distribution Rate. I believe it is prudent to limit the amount you take out of your accounts on which to live – more specifically, no more than 4% per year. One option is to use fixed income vehicles to achieve two thirds of your desired income with the other third coming from a systemic withdrawal from your growth assets. Another option is to leave the other third of your income need in a liquid money market account. I would recommend 18 months. As you spend that down you can then replenish that bucket with your growth assets. So, if you want to reduce your anxiety about outliving your assets, be mindful of these steps, stay in contact with your financial advisor and do not fret about the headlines of the day. Mr. Baum can be contacted at nbaum@bpuinvestments.com
ONE OXFORD CENTRE 301 GRANT ST. | SUITE 3300 | PITTSBURGH, PA 15219 | 412-288-9150 BPU Investment Management, Inc. | a Registered Investment Advisor | Member FINRA/SIPC
WWW.BPUINVESTMENTS.COM
nb060911
The accuracy and completeness of this information is not guaranteed. The opinions expressed are those of the author and not necessarily those of BPU Investment Management, Inc. or its affiliates. The material is solely for informational purposes and is not a solicitation of an offer to buy any security or instrument or to participate in any trading strategy. Our firm does not render legal, accounting or tax advice. Please consult your CPA or attorney on such matters. Asset allocation, diversification and rebalancing do not assume a positive return or protect against loss.
For Ari and Rogan, collaborating on projects has been part of their learning process since the 6th grade. A shared interest in neuroscience, coupled with awareness of the growing rates of addiction in Pittsburgh, spurred their most impressive collaboration to date, culminating in a documentary film, A Return to Normalcy: Addiction, Rehabilitation and Reintegration in Pittsburgh, along with their recommendations about models for treatment. Ari Schuman WT ’11 Columbia University
Rogan Grant WT ’11 Haverford College
For Kat, an interview with the mayor of Braddock, Pennsylvania, inspired an abundance of research on urban renewal and the pitfalls of gentrification. Her project discusses the ‘creative class’ and its usefulness in fueling economic renewal in this distressed town south of Pittsburgh.
Moved by murals throughout the city, Blake investigated the process of engaging a community in the creation of public art. She turned that lesson on herself by creating a mural that would both reflect a sense of identity and the values of her community while illustrating that ‘creative thought does matter.’ Blake Uretsky WT ’11 Cornell University
Kat Bovbjerg WT ’11 University of Chicago
Preparation for college and the world beyond. At Winchester Thurston School, our Urban Research & Design program is just one of hundreds of intellectually challenging pursuits that make our approach to education smarter. Learn more at winchesterthurston.org. PreK-Grade 12 - Campuses in Shadyside and Allison Park
Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve worked too hard to let this economy jeopardize your future. While you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have control over the markets, you do have control over how well-prepared you are for them. Working together with your UBS Financial Advisor, you can create a plan for retirement that accommodates future market changes, while still keeping you on track toward your goals. Once your plan is in place, ZPVĂ MM GFFM NPSF DPOĹ&#x2013;EFOU BOE SFTU B MJUUMF easier knowing youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re always prepared for the unexpected. Advice you can trust starts with a conversation. Lee Oleinick Senior Vice Presidentâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Investments lee.oleinick@ubs.com Walnut Wealth Management Group 5600 Walnut Street Pittsburgh, PA 15232 800-605-3767
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"T B Ĺ&#x2013;SN QSPWJEJOH XFBMUI NBOBHFNFOU TFSWJDFT UP DMJFOUT XF PĹĄFS CPUI JOWFTUNFOU BEWJTPSZ BOE CSPLFSBHF TFSWJDFT 5IFTF TFSWJDFT BSF TFQBSBUF BOE EJTUJODU EJĹĄFS JO NBUFSJBM XBZT BOE BSF HPWFSOFE CZ EJĹĄFSFOU MBXT BOE TFQBSBUF DPOUSBDUT 'PS NPSF JOGPSNBUJPO PO UIF EJTUJODUJPOT CFUXFFO PVS CSPLFSBHF BOE JOWFTUNFOU BEWJTPSZ TFSWJDFT QMFBTF TQFBL with your Financial Advisor or visit our website at ubs.com/workingwithus. Neither UBS Financial Services Inc. nor any of its employees provides legal or tax advice. You should consult with your personal legal or tax advisor regarding your personal circumstances. UBS Financial Services Inc. is a subsidiary of UBS AG. h 6#4`'JOBODJBM 4FSWJDFT *OD All rights reserved. Member SIPC. 31.19_Ad_OJ0623_OleL
ASKFORUM Q:
My girlfriend has been buying me scarves but I have no idea how to wear them. Are they in style?
Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky hand knits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpine designs, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to your look. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrap your favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try the European way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around your neck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache. And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a great fashion accent, whatever the weather.
Q:
Magazines show bright color pants, yet on the streets, most guys wear jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color?
Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely a new direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contemporary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, give them a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard to wear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England for decades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket models in neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill and corduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers, there’s no need to be boring—or bored.
While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats. First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods for all accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discount site or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the “same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners and trained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputation depends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closet makeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closet and update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it all together. In addition, store owners stand behind their product, so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.
36
IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA
Q:
Why buy clothing in a specialty store when so much is available online?
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AUGUST 2012 WILL MARK THE 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF AMERICA’S COOLEST DENIM. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans in the world; that’s still our mission today,” asserts Agave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eight jeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a record for us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused on USA-made quality product.”
How do you compete with bigger brands? I knew the secret of making the best jeans was in the denim. I found the best denims from boutique mills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partnering with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with production and laundry in L.A. that made jeans for Levi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentically and accurately. Agave stands for the highest quality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.
How tough is it to work with your spouse? I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Two companies ago we started working together: I was the owner and she was doing production. We hit tough times and had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.
A DECADE OF AGAVE We have the same taste level but complementary skills. We share values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.
What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011? The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo, black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excitement is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocket models, washed down to a beautiful patina.
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Above: Jeff and Lauren Shafer Left: Items from Agave’s men’s and women’s fall collections
For that finishing touch. Shoes in warm premium leather, hand-finished with unsurpassed attention to detail. Made in the U.S.A.
ALLEN EDMONDS TRUNK SHOW FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 22 // ONE PNC PLAZA
style
A patterned sportcoat can be dressed up or down, and a double-breasted camel peacoat satisfies three trends in one.
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The runways of Milan, New York and Paris showcase fashion at its most extravagant. Limited edition wool suits and belts made from the most exotic skins were paraded out to cause a stir—and it worked. Thankfully there’s more to menswear than one-off pieces singularly designed with connoisseurs in mind. This fall, men’s clothing and accessory makers have created some of their most varied and versatile collections to meet the everyday needs of the stylish modern man. Sharp suits and sportcoats in a rich array of autumnal colors and tweedy textures, sporty jackets made of weatherproof materials, big bold knits in solids and multi-hued variations, and even a resurgence of cashmere, corduroy and camel hair are wearable and on-trend. So whether you’re lounging around the house, dashing to the office, going for a weekend road trip, or prepar-
IMAGES COURTESY OF Z ZEGNA AND BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
TRENDS FOR MEN
FALL AND WINTER ARE JUST HEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
ing for that big formal affair, this fall’s offerings have you covered.
DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the office
Technically speaking... This wool and down jacket offers Thermore insulation and taped seams for waterproof performance.
in classic pinstripes or subtle windowpane patterns, these same jackets come alive at night when paired with casual slacks and jeans, coincidentally the way most real men now define weekend wear. If you want to try something new, check out this year’s crop of double-breasted jackets, or DBs, as they’re known. Nearly every designer from Armani to Zegna is banking on double-breasted suits playing a starring role in men’s wardrobes, this fall and beyond. To that end, double-breasted jackets
SWEET PEAS The pea coat originated in the 18th century, when the durable jackets were used to clothe sailors and other military personnel who found the “pij” material (from the Dutch word pijjekker meaning twilled cloth) used to make them incredibly warm. Modern menswear makers could not have foreseen record cold temperatures across the globe when they developed their own versions of these hearty coats, but rest
employed the time-honored ribbed cloth in everything from jeans, jackets and sport shirts to outerwear, blazers, and even tailored clothing. Pinwale corduroy in a cotton/cashmere blend is Hugo Boss’s top dog this season, while cashmere kingpin Brunello Cucinelli prefers brushed corduroy for his collection of quilted coats.
OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in a man’s wardrobe have ever been more luxurious than a camel top coat. Now that familiar topper—a staple of 1930s and 1940s Hollywood royalty—has been reinterpreted in everything from car coats and high-waisted trousers to sportcoats and even full camel hair (or colored) suits. Designers as diverse as Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford and Ermenegildo Zegna offered just a preview of the full camel stampede to come this winter.
>>
THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEAR SOMETHING HIGH TECH. come in many variations, from low four-button models with soft shoulders and very straight lapels to serious, military-inspired high six- and even eight-button, peak lapel jackets with strong shoulders and streamlined waists. Many of these shapes also carry over into outerwear and sportcoats.
assured that the double-breasted toppers are ready to work double duty when necessary.
STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes in many sizes—from pinwale to extra wide wale—and this season top brands like Belvest, Kiton, Zegna, Loro Piana and Canali have
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Zegna’s imaginative I Jacket with its built-in touch control panel at the cuff, allowing one to interface with his iPod without touching it? Or how about Loro Piana’s innovative Storm System technology, which renders even the most opulent fabrics like superfine wool and cashmere water repellent? Those brilliant ideas have come full circle and spawned a whole generation of high tech, high style garments. Whether it’s a polyester and nylon jacket that actually breathes as the temperature rises, or a top coat designed with touch technology that lets you hide your electronics and control them remotely, this season, it’s high style to wear something high tech.
IIMAGES COURTESY OF ZEGNA SPORT
TECHNO? TECH YES! Remember
ALLEGHENY VALLEY SCHOOL Lifelong opportunities for people with intellectual and developmental disabilities FOR OVER 50 YEARS, Allegheny Valley School (AVS) has been providing lifelong opportunities for people with intellectual and developmental disabilities (I/DD). Today, AVS provides a variety of residential and therapeutic programs to over 900 adults and children in 125 facilities and programs throughout nine Pennsylvania counties. Headquartered in Coraopolis, PA, AVS cares for some of the most vulnerable citizens in our communities. Approximately 80 percent of the individuals receiving care have a severe or profound diagnosis and many also have physical disabilities or medical complications. In 2008, AVS was acquired by NHS Human Services (NHS), one of the country’s largest non-profit providers of human services. Today, NHS/AVS is the largest provider of care to individuals with I/DD in Pennsylvania. Their goal is to help individuals grow and function at their fullest potential and as independently as possible. AVS works with families to achieve the desired outcomes for their children, siblings or other relatives, so they can live happy, fulfilling lives. (continued on page 46)
THE LEGACY OF
THE TERRIBLE TOWEL®
“My brother John has lived at AVS since he was a young boy. Today, he’s in his 50s. Having John at AVS is such a comfort for our entire family. I know that John is receiving exceptional care, learning new skills and living life to its fullest.” — Diane Barna
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IN 1975, THE TERRIBLE TOWEL® was created by the late Steelers broadcaster Myron Cope to inspire fan involvement in a playoff game against the then Baltimore Colts. Over 35 years later, The Terrible Towel® remains a Steelers fan essential. In 1996, Myron Cope, a longtime friend to AVS, gave the ownership of The Terrible Towel® trademark to AVS. The funds that AVS receives from The Terrible Towel® are contributed to the Capital Development Fund and used to cover costs such as equipment, program expansions and renovations to our facilities.
T H E
U L T I M A T E
T R O U S E R
AVS offers community residential environments and therapeutic programs that help individuals grow and function at their fullest potential, as independently as possible. At left, a dedicated AVS staffer assists a resident in the greenhouse.
PROGRAMS THAT MAKE A DIFFERENCE AVS provides a comprehensive continuum of services to support each person and help them continue to grow and learn at every stage of their lives. AVS offers multiple residential options including Campus Living, Group Homes, Supported Living and Family Living/Life Sharing. Adult Training Programs provide opportunities for individuals to enhance their capacity to achieve. By focusing on cognitive, communications and physical development, a variety of therapeutic programs assist with the cultivation of vocational and living skills. AVS partners with local businesses to encourage employment of consumers. AVSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; programs and services include training for employment, health services, occupational, physical and respiratory therapies, social services and communications training. To enhance services provided, AVS has developed, implemented and distributed an innovative sensory program. People with I/DD frequently have difficulty using sensory information from the environment. This program provides a variety of sensory activities and settings to help consumers interact more comfortably within their own surroundings. Innovative sensory rooms, gardens and specialized activities have helped consumers develop and expand their senses, making a real difference in their lives.
How You Can Help AVS is grateful for the decades of support they have received from the community, family and friends. Donations help cover expenses that are not reimbursable by Medicaid, such as equipment and renovations. Your support for the children and adults served by AVS is greatly appreciated. For more information on AVS services, or to make a donation, please visit www.avs.net, or call 412.299.2228.
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go to facebook.com/etonofsweden tell us your favorite thing about Larrimorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500 eton shopping spree.
fine shirt maker since 1928
life is but a
Fall 2011 has us dreaming about texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft ways to stay warm this fall...
PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio
Kurhajek |
STYLING:
Wendy McNett |
HAIR & MAKEUP:
Claire Bailey
DREAM A LITTLE DREAM OF...
STYLE MATTERS WHY
Making a good impression has never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier! Studies show that well-dressed men get higher paying jobs, enjoy better social status and are more attractive to the opposite sex.
Here are some simple tips on how to spruce up your look, because yes, style matters!
simple updates for all your modes...
1. Dressy Casual
2. Sartorial
BUILDING A GREAT WARDROBE IS SIMPLER THAN YOU THINK.
3. Sporty Casual
WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS) CAN BE BUILT.
Dressy Casual
THE ESSENTIAL
SPORTCOAT THE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL
No single item is more effective in transforming a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and concealing all the right body parts...
Plaid Classic A great neutral plaid adds instant style to jeans and moves gracefully from office to dinner.
Color Statement A bolder plaid in rich fall colors adds excitement to solid basics and layers well with sweaters.
Unconstructed A soft, unlined jacket is an indispensible basic this season. It looks casually elegant and fits like a second skin!
Collegiate Corduroy Toasty warm and versatile, corduroy has come back with a vengeance.
Soft Cashmere Unconstructed and elegant, it works with dress pants, jeans and everything in between.
Sartorial
(NEW)
FIT
The New Slimmer Silhouette is here to stay
From a first interview to the corner office,
one properly fitting neutral suit in a transitional fabric is an essential basic for the welldressed man.
The Intellectual Add a sweater to a windowpane wool suit for a super smart look.
The Young Turk A well-cut dark suit can take you everywhere... and a great wool tie is an easy way to add some personality.
The Player A fun shirt (without a tie) with an open suit jacket is a refreshing upgrade to jeans.
which SUITS you?
The Statesman Herringbone in warm fall tones plus a buttoned vest spells confidence.
The Mogul Navy pinstripe suit, blue shirt, red tie, slim cut... need we say more?
Sporting Event With Client A quilted, fitted, double-* breasted jacket is as warm as it is flattering.
Weekend Outing Cold, blustery days can be faced in style with an elegant update to the classic parka.
Sporty Casual
RELAXED
STYLE Soccer Sidelines Throw a great scarf over a versatile pullover and be the best looking dad on the field.
Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the weekend, or you just want it to feel that way.
Country Drive Go antiquing and lunching in style in a chocolate suede driving jacket, also perfect for everyday.
KAPSALIANA VILLAGE
world scene GREEK REVIVAL
A
few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slight rise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene is quiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brilliant tuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member of Historic Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from the original dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditional Cretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as if time had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.
Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
COLD COMFORT
LAKE PLACID LODGE
A
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s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time for winter sports, a cozy new coat and a heart-warming cocktail. After ice skating, cross country skiing or snowshoeing at the Lake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondack mountains, guests keep out the chill with the hotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. Bartender Lori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater, shares the recipe for this snug concoction. Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz. Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of New York State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mix vodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrup in a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fashioned glass. Top with cream and garnish with a mint leaf. Cheers!
Making Dreams Come True
Stephanie Veenis
RRS,CNE,USAA
Cell Phone: 412-551-9117 Voice Mail: 412-963-6301 Ext.: 250
AWARDS
m?
drea r u o y Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s
Dream Home, Executive Home, First Time Buyers, Investment, Land, Luxury Homes, Move-Up Home, New Construction, New Home
Top OďŹ&#x192;ce Producer Honors -- Multiple Years Member Of National Sales Excellence Club (Recognizes Top 5% Of Realtors Nationwide) Member Of Howard Hanna Champions Club Platinum Level Producer In Realtors Association Of Metropolitan Pittsburgh Consistent 10 + Million Dollar Producer Representing Sellers And Buyers
GILT TRIP
A
MONEY MUSEUM
long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted chocolates and a bottle of Champagne are provided), which brings you to the Money Museum. Here, caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 million dollars worth of paper money and rare coins, including the most comprehensive collection of American gold coinage in existence, is stored. Between courses, the curator of the museum joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.
COUNTRY CHIC
JAYNE THOMPSON
I
n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eightroom house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel John Bowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection of English and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular with antiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) to shop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, Jayne Thompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’s Restaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients and paired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning dining room filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-century Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with English Ironstone china.
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mong the many trendy—and usually pricey— goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish event that’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, residents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and first timers alike, can join certified instructors for “Beach Yoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate South Beach insider happening, which attracts vacationing Broadway stars and fashion editors, among others, has been meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend an hour reaching new horizons.
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DJORDJE ISHERE / CLICKHERE STUDIOS
A STRETCH OF BEACH
ROB ERTGR AHA M .US
THE GALLERIA OF MT. LEBANON will give you a world of choices to complement your own sense of style with: Ȉ A variety of unique shops Ȉ The convenience of shopping under one roof Ȉ From your garage to our garage Ȉ Excellent personal service Ȉ Many dining choices at Houlihan’s, Mitchell’s Fish Market, Bravo Cucina Italiana, China Gate and Panera Bread Ȉ Complimentary indoor and outdoor parking
1500 WASHINGTON ROAD s 412.561.4000 s
WWW. GALLERIAPGH. COM
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SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN. THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUS
CLOSET THERAPY A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm, used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is? You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I play menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate, though I’m not a doctor. Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants fill their shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, transforming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxury. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, the clothes he pulls out each morning helping to determine if people will buy into his personality, business acumen, credibility, or whatever he’s selling. I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneled closet. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenly spaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows, his belts and ties were arranged meticulously. I thought about this client, a bachelor with a high finance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair, beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters! Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect specimen, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics, and not one cashmere knit!
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I looked around his spectacular apartment with its expansive views of Central Park and envisioned the women he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceived wardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud. Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favorite store as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazz song with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensions to help showcase your own unique qualities. Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this music metaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen twoand four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in masculine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is now balanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks, V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces now double as sportswear. His love life has improved, too: wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knit cardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams. When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that when they get dressed each day, they’re energized and inspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think too much! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”
www.natnast.com
www.canali.it