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THE LIPS GUIDE 46
CIAO, BELLA
BEAUT Y REP ORTER 22 Drawing lines with Dior’s new launch 24 Brazilian-born blogger Camila Coelho’s Lancôme lipstick collection 26 Latina-run beauty launches we love • The case for glittery hair 28 Fresh citrus scents 32 High-tech cleansing • Gentle exfoliators that make a big difference • A new take on a classic cream 37 Fall’s hottest colors • Upgrade your brow routine • The cutest lip balms
DANIEL JACKSON
Bella Hadid models a rainbow of sherbet-colored hues and tells us what she won’t leave home without.
70
POWER POUTS
NEWS & TRENDS 20 Oral History. The Sweet Spot. How the lipstick that defined the ’90s came to be. 38 Behind the Scenes. Shades of Meaning. The origin of the evocative names behind your favorite hues. 56 Background Beauty. Welcome to Kandyland. Up your accessory game with a look at L.A.’s trendy tooth-gem studio. 61 Oral History. Doctor’s Orders. How a partnership with a regional soft drink led to a beloved lip balm that’s stood the test of time. 62 Injectable Report. Get Your Fill. The definitive road map to lip fillers. 66 Cutting-Edge News. Shape Shifter. Meet the lip lift. 68 Under the Radar. The 7 Best Lip Products You’ve Never Heard Of. Insiders share their faves. 78 Directory. Mouth off to these top-tier experts, from New York City to Los Angeles. 84 Smiles 101. Pearlier Whites. Our guide to modern dentistry.
90 What the Pros Do. The 25 Best Lipstick Tips of All Time. Experts share their triedand-true methods. F E AT U R E S 46 Bella Hadid Has an Eye for Color. The model answers our most pressing beauty questions. 70 Loud Mouths. Lip looks so bold they speak for themselves. By Cotton Codinha 92 Two of a Kind. Actress Anya Taylor-Joy talks about her punk phase, her fascination with magic, and her favorite red lipstick (you can swim in it). By Brennan Kilbane REGULARS 16 Editor’s Letter 18 Beauty by Numbers 100 A Final Word. These lips are legend.
ON THE COVER Bella Hadid’s look can be re-created with the following: Backstage Eye Palette in Warm Neutrals, Eyeliner Waterproof in Intense Brown, Diorshow Pump’N’Volume mascara, and Dior Addict Lacquer Plump in Dior Glitz by Dior. Paco Rabanne dress. Details, see allure.com/credits. Photographed by Daniel Jackson. Fashion stylist: Michael Philouze. Makeup: Romy Soleimani. Hair: Esther Langham. Manicure: Casey Herman. Production: Prodn.
ALLURE IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT © 2018 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 28, NO. 9. September 2018 ISSUE. ALLURE (ISSN 1054-7771) is published monthly by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Condé Nast, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President & Chief Executive Officer; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Chief Revenue & Marketing Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. POSTMASTER: Send all UAA to CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: Send address corrections to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to ALLURE, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-678-1825, or email subscriptions@allure.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to ALLURE Magazine, One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast.com or call 717-505-9701, ext 101. For reuse permissions, please email permissions@condenast.com or call 800-8978666. Visit us online at www.allure.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.condenastdigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-678-1825. ALLURE IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ARTWORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ARTWORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY ALLURE IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.
8 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
QUENTIN JONES
{ THE LIPS GUIDE }
You don’t need makeup to make a statement, but looks like this one will ensure you have an audience. Color Sensational lipstick in Smoked Silver by Maybelline New York. For fashion credits, see allure.com/credits.
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WHERE WAS YOUR FIRST KISS?
EDITOR IN CHIEF MICHELLE LEE DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL OPERATIONS AMANDA MEIGHER
B E AU T Y EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y DIRECTOR JENNY BAILLY DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR ELIZABETH SIEGEL EXECUTIVE BEAUT Y EDITOR JESSICA CHIA SENIOR BEAUT Y FEATURES EDITOR COTTON CODINHA SENIOR WRITER BRENNAN KILBANE BEAUT Y ASSISTANT KATHLEEN SUICO
V I S UA LS VISUALS DIRECTOR RHIANNA RULE BOOKINGS DIRECTOR HELENA SURIC SENIOR VISUALS EDITOR JACQUELINE LADNER VISUALS EDITOR HANNAH CHOI ASSISTANT VISUALS EDITOR PAIGE VITI
ON A RENTED YACHT DURING A FRIEND’S
CASTING ASSISTANT KELSEY LAFFERTY
SWEET 16 THAT
R E S E A RC H
PROBABLY COST
RESEARCH DIRECTOR LORI SEGAL
MORE THAN MY FUTURE WEDDING.
DIGITAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR KELLY BALES
FAS H I O N FASHION DIRECTOR RAJNI JACQUES ASSOCIATE FASHION EDITOR MARION B. KELLY II
A RT I C L E S EDITORIAL ASSISTANT JESA MARIE CALAOR
A RT DESIGN DIRECTOR NICOLE ARGENTO ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR KATELYN BAKER
THE STAIRWELL OF MY JUNIOR HIGH SCHOOL. I CUT MATH CLASS
DIGITAL DESIGNER BRITTANY THEOPHILUS
TO HANG OUT
P RO D U CT I O N
HAD A CRUSH ON.
WITH THE BOY I
DEPUT Y MANAGING EDITOR NICOLE STUART PRODUCTION MANAGER BRENT BURKET
C O PY COPY DIRECTOR CATHERINE GAMBRELL COPY MANAGERS LESLIE LIPTON, DAWN REBECKY
RESEARCH MANAGERS AMBER ANGELLE, CRISTINA RIVERA
AT SUMMER A L LU R E .C O M DIGITAL DEPUT Y DIRECTOR SAM ESCOBAR DIGITAL DEPUT Y BEAUT Y DIRECTOR SOPHIA PANYCH DIRECTOR OF CONTENT DEVELOPMENT TRACEY ZANE DIGITAL BEAUT Y EDITOR SABLE YONG
HAVE BEEN ASLEEP
AU D I E N C E D E V E LO P M E N T A N D S O C I A L ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT AND SOCIAL LINDSAY SANSONE COMMERCE COMMUNIT Y MANAGER LAUREN SWANSON SENIOR SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER DANIELLE ODIAMAR ASSOCIATE SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER MADISEN THEOBALD MANAGER, ANALY TICS ADRIANA ACOSTA
NO IDEA WHAT WE WERE DOING.
COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR JAIME MARSANICO
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS AMANDA BOHNSON, JILLIAN DEMPSEY, DAVID DENICOLO, ROSEMARY DONAHUE, JOELLE HYMAN, FRANCIS KURKDJIAN, CHRIS McMILLAN, LIDIA MOORE, THERESA O’ROURKE, MARCI ROBIN, LIANA SCHAFFNER
ENTERTAINMENT EDITOR MAXWELL LOSGAR ASSISTANT BUSINESS MANAGER TAYLOR SHEA
FO U N D I N G E D I TO R LINDA WELLS
ARTISTIC DIRECTOR ANNA WINTOUR 10 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
RANGE AT NIGHT,
DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER MONICA PERRY
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT SHANELLE DRAKEFORD
WE BOTH HAD
COURSE DRIVING WHEN I SHOULD
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR KALEIGH FASANELLA
WHEN I WAS 14.
ON THE GOLF
DIGITAL EDITORS JIHAN FORBES, SARAH KINONEN
BEAUT Y REPORTER DEVON ABELMAN
AT A POOL PARTY
SLEEPAWAY CAMP.
IN MY BUNK.
WHERE WAS YOUR FIRST KISS?
CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER ALISON MOORE CHIEF INDUSTRY OFFICER, BEAUTY/HEAD OF REVENUE LUCY KRIZ VPS–REVENUE LAUREN KAMEN, HEDDY SAMS PIERSON VP–FINANCE & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT CHRISTINE DIPRESSO MORRA
A DV E RT I S I N G SALES DIRECTOR FOR COLLECTION ABIGAIL BREENE EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTORS DORENE BAIR, DEBORAH B. BARON, KELSEY KIRSCH, LAUREN DECKER LERMAN, STEPHANIE SLADKUS
NEW YEAR’S EVE. A CLOSET AT A HIGH SCHOOL PARTY. SENIOR VARSITY BASKETBALL PLAYER.
SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTORS LAUREN HIMELSTEIN, CARLY GRESH PASTERNAK ACCOUNT DIRECTORS ALEXANDRIA HAUGHEY, STEPHANIE LEINBACH, BERRY MORSE ASSOCIATE ACCOUNT DIRECTOR MANEKA MAHAJAN EXECUTIVE ASSISTANTS RACHEL HERRING, JAY R. MALSKY SALES ASSOCIATES MANUELA BONGIORNO, GIULIA GIACOBELLI, SYDNE KILBERG, ALEXANDRA KOTLER, AMANDA MADISON, TEAH SISTI, MADELINE WALKER, SUE WARDA
MARKETING VPS, MARKETING JENNY RYAN BOWMAN, JILL STEINBACH FRIEDSON EXECUTIVE DIRECTORS, BRAND MARKETING ERIN BRENNAN, CAMILLE SIGNORELLI SENIOR DIRECTORS, BRAND MARKETING STEFENI BELLOCK, TONI NICOLINO
ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, SAN FRANCISCO ALEXANDRA SLUSSER ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, ITALY LAURA BOTTA, ENRICA MANELLI DIRECTOR, NETWORK SALES & PARTNERSHIPS, DETROIT MARISA HANSEN SOUTHEAST PETER ZUCKERMAN, Z MEDIA, 305-532-5566 TEXAS CAROL CONTESTABILE, LEWIS STAFFORD COMPANY, 972-960-2889
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MANAGER, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY NICOLE SAFIR
LIKE ME HAS HERS—
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THE BACK OF A
IT PROBABLY
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12 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
SEVEN MINUTES
ASSOCIATE FINANCE DIRECTOR NILSA SERRATA
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETPLACE STRATEGY LEAH ASHLEY
KENTUCKY GIRL
ROOM PLAYING IN HEAVEN.
SENIOR BUSINESS DIRECTORS KELLY HWANG, KAREN MANVILLE
MANAGERS, BRAND MARKETING ABBY ADESANYA, HALEY HOOVER
IN A LAUNDRY
FINANCE DIRECTOR JESSICA GIVNER LEVINE
DIRECTORS, BRAND MARKETING KATIE MACK, KERRI-ANN OGRUDEK
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, EXPERIENCES NATALIE GREENFIELD
HOMEGROWN
SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, LOS ANGELES KAYTE BENEDICT, DEBBE LEVY
EXECUTIVE BUSINESS DIRECTOR JENNIFER JACKSON
ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING BETHANY VERDONE
EVERY GOOD,
EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTOR, BOSTON & CARIBBEAN KRISTIN HAVENS
SENIOR DIRECTOR, EXPERIENCES JENNIFER MA
DIRECTOR, EXPERIENCES CHRIS MANCIVALANO
THE SAME PLACE
BRANCH OFFICES EXECUTIVE ACCOUNT DIRECTORS, MIDWEST CHRISTINA KROLOPP, ANGIE PACKARD PRENDERGAST
LASTED FOR SEVEN SECONDS.
{ LETTER FROM THE EDITOR }
HEARTS UNKNOWN I’m pretty sure I’ve watched every episode of every Anthony Bourdain series ever made. Anyone who knows me knows that I’m absolutely obsessed with food. But the late chef also had a major impact on the way I view the world. I’ve often talked about how I admire the way he used food as a lens to explore culture. And I’ve strived for that at Allure when it comes to beauty. He once said, “Food is everything we are. It’s an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma. It’s inseparable from those from the get-go.” Parts Unknown wasn’t a show about cooking. It was a show about culture. It opened us up to places and people that we might have written off as too foreign or too redneck or too weird or even too dangerous. He broke bread with people around the world and didn’t shy away from difficult conversations, showing us that we’re all more alike than we seem. Of course, his suicide came just days after Kate Spade’s, a brilliant designer and lifestyle doyenne—who had been a Mademoiselle editor earlier in her career, like me, although we were there at different times. Both were household names. Icons. But their deaths illustrated how depression can be lurking within anyone, even the people we view as life’s lottery winners. September 10 is World Suicide Prevention Day. And with U.S. suicide rates sharply on the rise over the past 20 years, it’s a good time for us to revisit kindness: for ourselves and for others. In these trying times, remember: Self-care, in all its forms, is an act of love. It’s OK to ask for help. Be kind. Take care of each other.
HOW TO GET HELP Crisis Text Line Text 741741 from anywhere in the U.S. at any time to talk with a trained crisis counselor. After the death of Kate Spade, the Kate Spade New York Foundation Campaign donated $250,000 to this organization. It plans to donate over $1 million to mental health awareness causes. crisistextline.org
Dr. Brandt Foundation Dedicated to destigmatizing the conversation about mental health issues. Services focus on art and art therapy, reflecting the late Fredric Brandt’s passions. drbrandtfoundation.org
National Suicide Prevention Lifeline This service provides 24/7 free and confidential support to people in crisis. 800-273-8255; suicidepreventionlifeline.org
The Trevor Project National 24/7 suicide hotline for LGBTQ+ youth. They offer TrevorChat, which is a free instant-messenger service, and TrevorSpace, a social-networking site for those under 25. 866-488-7386 to talk to someone; 202-3041200 to text with someone. thetrevorproject.org
16 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
PUCKER UP
74
Percentage of people who turn their heads to the right when they kiss— typically, the hand you write with predicts which way your head will tilt.
It’s the least effective way to burn calories and the most effective way to share microbes—but nothing makes us feel more alive than a good kiss. —JESA MARIE CALAOR
Number of bacteria that can pass between mouths in that passionate lip lock—most of which are harmless, of course.
59
80 MILLION
2
Approximate duration, in seconds, of the first-ever onscreen smooch, in Thomas Edison’s 1896 (very) short film The Kiss. It was highly scandalous and denounced by the Roman Catholic Church. (The papal jury is out on rose smooches, though.)
58.6
Number of hours the world’s longest kiss lasted. The Guinness World Record was set in 2013 during a contest organized by Ripley’s Believe It or Not!
22
The number of men the average woman will kiss before finding “the one,” according to a pre-royal-wedding study conducted in the U.K.
6.4
Number of calories burned during one minute of passionate kissing, according to The Art of Kissing by William Cane. That’s half an hour of making out to offset one Original Glazed Krispy Kreme doughnut, which actually sounds like a morning very well spent.
HARLEY WEIR/ART PARTNER
{ BEAUTY BY NUMBERS }
Percentage of men who have ended a budding relationship because of bad kissing, according to a study conducted by the University at Albany. (Women aren’t as generous—66 percent have quickly called it quits with subpar kissers.)
The routine way to radiant lips.
NOURISH.
ENHANCE.
The ChapStick Total Hydration Collection
©2018 Pfizer Inc.
EXFOLIATE.
THE SWEET SPOT
Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey looks much (much) darker in the tube than it does on lips.
photographed by graham pollack 20 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
Black Honey started in the ’70s disco era, when the look was super glossy, wet makeup—very Halston. But it wasn’t Black Honey as we know it. The original wasn’t a stick; it was a shiny, potted black lip gloss that our founder, Carol Phillips, thought looked like a honey pot because it was so gooey. It was one of several potted glosses with Honey names, but Black Honey was Carol’s baby—there was nothing else like it at a time when everyone was wearing bright disco colors. It’s like she had a crystal ball. Fast-forward to the late ’80s, and potted glosses had gone out of fashion. Carol decided to convert just one of the Honeys, Black Honey, into a stick. She wanted everyone to be able to wear it, so—like she’d done with the potted gloss—she dreamt up a formula that would be black in the tube but sheer on the lips so it would work on all skin tones. It would have to look totally different in the tube than it looked on. It took a lot of work to make a formula like that. You don’t need 50 million ingredients, but you need the right ratio of pigments to color-sheering waxes. Enter Black Honey—again: This blackened shade came out in 1989. You take off the cap, swivel it up, and you’re like, Oh, wow, this color is black. But when you swipe it on, it’s magical—a beautiful sheer berry-raisin-brown. At the time, there were a lot of full-coverage, very intense lipsticks that not everybody could wear. This looked good on everyone, and it actually felt good on your lips. It’s so crazy—it caught on fire from the day it launched, and it’s still our number-one-selling lip product today. Never went away! It was made on gut and intuition, and now we sell one Almost Lipstick in Black Honey every three minutes. It’s not a fussy product, but it’s got a special something that people just love. Sometimes there’s no market research or trend to back up a product—just a little nagging something inside of you that says, “This is right.” —AS TOLD TO ELIZABETH SIEGEL
PROP STYLIST: RACHEL STICKLEY
{ ORAL HISTORY }
Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey started a ’90s craze for blackened lipstick—with a twist. Janet Pardo, senior vice president of global product development, remembers it fondly.
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BEAUTY REPORTER LOOK WE LOVE
Finer Liners As you read through the most comprehensive lips-themed issue any magazine has offered to date, take a moment to forget everything you know about lipstick. That’s what we asked of makeup artist Yuki Hayashi when we gave him a handful of Dior’s marker-like Rouge Dior Ink Lip Liners, out this month. All 12 shades (a mix of reds, pinks, and nudes with a few standouts, such as near-black and peachy orange) stain your lips (instead of sitting on top of them and feeling waxy), and their felt tips come to a fine point, so they’re easy to draw with precisely. Hayashi used them to create lip art inspired by Picasso’s Cubist period, contrasting shadows with shocks of color and light. If you’re more minimalist, Hayashi suggests starting simple: Run a liner a few shades darker than your lipstick down the center of your lips, or trace your Cupid’s bow in a lighter shade. But there’s little need for trepidation—it’s all temporary. —BRENNAN KILBANE
Sonia Boyajian earring. Makeup colors: Rouge Dior Ink Lip Liners in Rouge Zinnia, Tender, Star, Poison, Radical, and Love. Fashion stylist: Kirby Marzec. Makeup: Yuki Hayashi. Hair: Takayoshi Tsukisawa. Model: Elizabeth Davison. Details, see allure.com/credits.
photographed by jens ingvarsson
AU TO cyc l e RENTERS b oat rv
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Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states, in all GEICO companies, or in all situations. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. Homeowners, renters and condo coverages are written through non-affiliated insurance companies and are secured through the GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc. Motorcycle and ATV coverages are underwritten by GEICO Indemnity Company. The GEICO Personal Umbrella Policy is provided by Government Employees Insurance Company and is available to qualified Government Employees Insurance Company and GEICO General Insurance Company policyholders and other eligible persons. GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. Š 2018 GEICO
{ BEAUT Y REPORTER }
E XC LU S I V E
Success Story The true—and improbable—tale behind Brazilian-born superblogger Camila Coelho’s lipstick collection for Lancôme. When I was six years old, I took my first passport photo— with red lipstick on. My grandmother had given it to me. She was the one who let me put red lipstick on for the first time. My hair had been lightened by the sun because we lived in Brazil, so I had short blonde hair and red lips. In high school, my family and I moved from my Brazilian hometown, Virginópolis, to Scranton, Pennsylvania. I was an honor roll student, but instead of going to college after I graduated, I got a job at the Macy’s Dior counter selling makeup. My mother was upset, but I told her not to worry, that I would make her proud. Then I found YouTube. It started as a hobby, of course—making beauty tutorials on YouTube wasn’t a job eight years ago. I would do crazy-colorful eye makeup, contoured lips. I would try anything. I think that’s why I stood out. People started watching and giving feedback. So I created a blog. In the first 12 days, I had 120,000 visitors, and it just grew from there. [Coelho now has 8.5 million followers between 24 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
YouTube and Instagram.] Today, my mom is so proud. Her best moment yet, she says, is that I’m launching 10 lipsticks with Lancôme this month. She’s so obsessed with the brand—she wore Trésor when I was growing up. I’ve never been more excited than when Lancôme suggested we create lipsticks together. They see me as a lipstick girl, and I am—it’s the one thing I cannot live without. Going to their lab in Paris and seeing how everything gets done, choosing my own shades—it was so much fun. I spent a full day at the lab with makeup artist Lisa Eldridge just choosing shades. I knew I wanted them to be matte but hydrating. I wanted a statement red [Rouge Empire], at least two nudes [Last Minute and Parisian Nude], and a fuchsia with cool undertones, because you can’t find that kind of pink just anywhere. I created a unique magenta [Tropical Pink] that’s so beautiful on olive and darker skin tones. It’s the type of pink I’ve worn forever. —AS TOLD TO JESSICA CHIA
FROM TOP: WILL ANDERSON (PROP STYLIST: GOZDE EKER); COURTESY OF LANCÔME
The names of many of Lancôme’s L’Absolu Rouge x Camila Coelho lipsticks were inspired by Coelho’s Brazilian roots. From top: Carioca Summer, Coral de Janeiro, Ipanema Sunrise, Rouge Empire, and Copacabana.
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Brain Trust According to Statista, Latinas bought makeup more frequently than any other group in the U.S. last year. So it should come as no surprise that these beauty brands (and others) took notice. —Jessica Chia
CAMILA CABELLO L’O R É A L P A R I S The Cuban-American recording artist’s L’Oréal Paris Camila Cabello Havana Collection is poised to be a drugstore hit. Clockwise from top: Gotta Give Brow in Medium, Lip Dew in Lit Up, Flash Liner, ultracreamy Eye Shadow in In Love, and Sun-Lit Bronzer in Medium/Deep.
CAMILA COUTINHO LCN BRASIL
Above, from left: LCN Brasil by Camila Coutinho in Grace, Naomi, and Diane.
JENNIFER LOPEZ INGLOT A proud Puerto Rican (she donated $1 million to disaster-relief efforts there last year) and entrepreneur, Lopez’s comprehensive makeup line is as glowing as you’d expect.
M AY E L A VA Z Q U E Z XANTERÍA
Above, clockwise from top left: Jennifer Lopez x Inglot Pure Pigment Eye Shadow in Ethereal; Lipstick in Flor; Boogie Down Bronze in Sunkissed; Freedom System Palette including Eye Shadows in Pearl, Café Au Lait, and Rich Gold and Face Blush in Blush; Lipglossy Lip Gloss in Goldilips; Viva Las Lashes Mascara; and Livin’ the Highlight in Radiant.
A makeup artist from Monterrey, Mexico, Vazquez dreamed up a brilliant gizmo—four makeup brushes nested inside one tool. So you can apply blush, bronzer, foundation, shadow, liner, and powder, all with the Mayela Vazquez for Xantería Cosmetica The Multitasker brush (above).
OUR NEW OBSESSION
Shimmer Lights Hair is best served with a sprinkling of glitter throughout, and generously tossed.
We proudly present...an ironclad case for glitter-strewn hair. Argument A: When your peers are still perfecting their cat eyes, you’ll be leagues ahead of them, having moved on to a whole new dimension of glamour. Argument B: How else will you accessorize for that mermaid-themed Labor Day pool party? Argument C: It’s extremely easy. Just mist the subtly sparkling, excellent-smelling Drybar x Too Faced Glitter Spritzer throughout your lengths for KiraKira-like twinkle, or spray the amped-up, brilliant IGK Preparty Hair Strobing Glitter from root to tip for gleaming highlights. Argument D: Life is far too short to not embrace glittering hair. —BRENNAN KILBANE
JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (STILL LIFES); COURTESY OF SUBJECT (PORTRAITS)
{ BEAUT Y REPORTER }
This fashion blogger from Recife, Brazil, created 10 nail lacquers— a mix of neutrals and vivid brights— to go with any outfit.
Freshly Squeezed
Calvin Klein Women. A scent that contains notes both floral (orange flower) and fiery (black pepper). The bottle, designed in collaboration with artist Anne Collier, is possibly the most affordable objet d’art available at Macy’s. (You’ll find some of Collier’s other work at the Guggenheim.)
Givenchy Eau de Givenchy. Neroli lovers will marvel at how the note is transformed into a cheery bouquet with lemon and petitgrain. Everybody else will buy it for the elegant bottle, which is also fine.
Tiffany & Co. Intense. A potent re-up of the original’s musky orange (this one doubles down on powdery iris) proves yet again that a little Tiffany on the wrist and neck is never a bad idea.
Chanel Paris-Deauville. So fresh and orangey-smelling, it’s nearly straight from the grove. A gift to any nightstand—and anybody who meets you, too.
28 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
PROP STYLIST: GOZDE EKER
{ BEAUT Y REPORTER }
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Italian Zest. Still the citron-scent equivalent of diving off of a yacht into the azure Gulf of Naples, now garnished with a lemon wedge—like a refreshing, postswim glass of limonata.
Should anybody challenge your choice to wear a citrus fragrance this close to fall, just tell them it’s spring in Buenos Aires. (And also, you’re a grown person and you can do whatever you like.) —BRENNAN KILBANE
photographed by will anderson
PLUSH LIPSTICK
merlenorman.com © 2018 Merle Norman Cosmetics, Inc.
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ST R A I G H T-A B E AU T Y
High Achievers for Fall Every year, Allure editors sift through thousands and thousands of products and carefully test each one, looking for the cream of the crop—the ones that give you the shiniest hair, the most radiant skin, the smokiest eye. The products that win a coveted Best of Beauty Award are the ones you can return to again and again, knowing they simply work.
As summer fades into fall, it’s a great time to switch up your beauty regimen. Here, some of the most sought-after Best of Beauty winners—the ones that top the list year after year—and insider tips from Allure’s executive beauty editor, Jessica Chia, and digital editor Jihan Forbes, who went back to school to share their best tricks with college seniors Chandi and Dominique.
THE REPORT CARD OLAY EYES ULTIMATE EYE CREAM. What makes this eye cream an absolute must-have? It’s all about the ingredients: peptides to minimize lines and niacinamide to get rid of puffy eyes. Plus, it feels great going on and works with all skin types.
VENUS SWIRL. Allure editors love this innovative razor because its flexi-ball allows the five blades to move easily around the tricky areas, like knobby ankles. And the serum strip surrounding the blades gives you a little extra lubrication to prevent irritation—without that slimy feeling.
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JESS’S PRO TIP: “I LIKE TO APPLY MY EYE CREAM WITH MY RING FINGER —IT’S THE MOST GENTLE ON THE FACE. I USE SWEEPING MOTIONS TOWARD MY TEMPLES TO HELP REDUCE PUFFINESS EVEN MORE.”
JIHAN’S PRO TIP: “AFTER THE SHOWER, DON’T BOTHER WITH THE TERRY-CLOTH TOWEL. DRY YOUR HAIR WITH A COTTON T-SHIRT TO HELP REDUCE FRIZZ.”
SECRET FRESH. People tend to go to town on their underarms, but two swipes are all you need to get the job done — especially when you’re talking about a Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award winner. The innovative technology counteracts “nose-blindness” — so you’ll keep smelling that fresh scent all day.
PANTENE DAILY MOISTURE RENEWAL SHAMPOO & FOAM CONDITIONER. This shampoo and conditioner duo locks in moisture to keep hair soft and shiny — they are the answer to your dry-hair woes. Surprise bonus: The formulas give hair bounce, too!
EASY DOES IT GENTLE NEW ACID E X F O L I ATO R S M A K E E V E N F U S S Y S K I N R A D I A N T. 1
After you cleanse with the Mia Smart, snap on the Sonic Awakening Eye Massager and smooth it over your undereyes, brow bones, and temples to stimulate circulation.
Your Own Devices Clarisonic just got a couple of high-tech updates: The new Mia Smart syncs with your phone so you can track how often you cleanse and (more importantly) check out before-and-after photos in the Clarisonic app to decide whether your routine is worth sticking to. It also comes with a softer, gentler cleansing brush head whose indicator turns red when it’s time for a fresh one. But even more exciting (if you ask us): The Mia Smart debuts with a massaging undereye attachment, and data shows that it firms puffy skin and smooths crow’s-
feet and undereye wrinkles in as little as two months. “The rapid oscillation can stimulate circulation so your eyes look brighter, and anytime you massage your skin, you’re waking up fibroblasts to trigger collagen production,” says Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist in New York City. “After I give patients certain fillers, I have them massage the area for five minutes a day for a week so it sets nicely. Many patients keep at it because manual manipulation makes skin suppler and healthier-looking.” —ELIZABETH SIEGEL
All Clear Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion, the butter-colored cream that’s been a bestseller since the ’60s, has a new sibling: Dramatically Different Hydrating Jelly. The packaging and super hydrating powers remain the same. But the gel (now with skin-smoothing barley extract and hyaluronic acid) has a cooling sensation on skin. Refreshing, indeed. —COTTON CODINHA
3
1. Tata Harper Resurfacing Serum sloughs off dullness with mild alpha and beta hydroxy acids, moisturizes with olive-derived squalane, and disguises ruddiness with a tomatoderived green tint. 2. Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is a once-a-week treatment with lactic acid molecules that don’t penetrate (and potentially irritate) skin as deeply as other exfoliating acids, so it left our skin softer, not scarier. 3. Moon Juice Beauty Shroom Exfoliating Acid Potion is a natural toner with a trio of acids (glycolic, lactic, salicylic) tempered by emollient tocotrienols (a relative of vitamin E) and antioxidant reishi mushrooms (the extract that’s made the brand’s powdered supplements a cult hit). —C. C.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WILL ANDERSON (PROP STYLIST: GOZDE EKER); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (4)
{ BEAUT Y REPORTER }
2
WA R M E M B R AC E FIERY REDS AND GLITTERING ORANGE, SUNRISE PINK A N D T R O P I C A L P L U M S — O U R FAV O R I T E N E W L I P C O L O R S A R E H E R E T O H E A T T H I N G S U P. —AMANDA BOHNSON
Clockwise from right: Shiseido VisionAiry Gel Lipstick in Code Red, Nars Full Vinyl Lip Lacquer in Cape Town, Burt’s Bees Liquid Lipstick in Lavender Lake, Shiseido VisionAiry Gel Lipstick in Pixel Pink, Shiseido VisionAiry Gel Lipstick in Future Shock, Anastasia Beverly Hills Lip Gloss in Sunscape, and Giorgio Armani Rouge D’Armani Matte Lipstick in 506.
N I C E PAC K AG E
{ BEAUTY REPORTER }
Benefit’s Brow Contour Pro 4-in-1 pen reimagines the multicolor click pens of the ’70s as a four-way brow enhancer. Because yes, there are now that many ways to enhance your brows. There’s a deep shade (to fill from tail to arch) and a lighter one (to subtly enhance inner corners). Two more clicks get you two shimmer-free highlighters—a darker one to define the top and bottom edges of your brows and a more champagne-y color to accentuate arches from below. Plus, each creamy pencil has a precise point for natural, hairlike strokes that equal brow perfection. Times four. —MACKENZIE DAWKINS
Bkr Paris Water Balm. This rose-scented lip balm snaps in and out of the cap of our favorite water bottle, so you can consolidate all your modes of hydration.
Balm. We think the next best thing to being dressed by Karl Lagerfeld is twisting his head off to enjoy a sweet shea butter lip balm.
Wear
The Pineapple Lip Balm. Confusingly tastes like mangoes and strawberries, but it’s so adorable (and effective), we can’t stay mad at it.
Soft
Smoother lips from very cute, very kitschy balms. —A. B.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WILL ANDERSON (PROP STYLIST: GOZDE EKER); JOSEPHINE SCHIELE (5)
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THE LIPS GUIDE 2018 ALLURE 37
SHADES OF MEANING
Maryam Nassir Zadeh dress. Fashion stylist: Kirby Marzec. Hair: Takayoshi Tsukisawa. Makeup: Yuki Hayashi. Manicure: Ami Vega. Model: Marta Piekarz. Details, see allure.com/credits.
LINE GOES HERE TK WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S IN A NAME? WHEN IT COMES TO LIPSTICK, THE ANSWER IS AN INTRICATE WEB OF HOPES, DREAMS, AND SUBLIMINAL MESSAGES GALORE. LIANA SCHAFFNER EXPLAINS THE COLORFUL WORDPLAY. photographed by jens ingvarsson 38 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
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THE BEAUTY EXPERTS BEHIND THE BESTSELLING LIP COLORS ARE SKILLED STORYTELLERS.
“I don’t want to wear just any nude,” says consumer psychologist Kit Yarrow. “I want to wear a sexy, continental, Italian nude.” This isn’t wishful thinking; Yarrow is describing the evocative name of her everyday By Terry lipstick, Nudissimo—a made-up word that conveys voluptuousness and excess with just a few extra vowels. “It’s an exciting name for a shade that I slap on in the car without a mirror.” To be clear, Yarrow, the author of Decoding the New Consumer Mind: How and Why We Shop and Buy (Wiley), is an expert at analyzing how the human brain responds to branding mechanisms. She studies our reactions to marketing cues with scientific objectivity—the way a marine biologist might observe a barracuda darting after shiny objects. But with lipstick, even she warms to the supple themes that entice the average shopper. To the pragmatic observer, this implies a universal Achilles’ heel, a chink in every consumer’s armor. The idea that informed buyers lose all objectivity around lipstick has evolved into established fact. “We’ve been talking about lipstick as a hallmark of consumer psychology for forever,” says Yarrow. “It’s the indulgence you carry with you; it’s the thing you splurge on when you’re cutting back on everything else; it’s the ultimate fantasy makeup.” It’s hard to deny, or resist, the transformative power of a swipe of pigment. But when you consider the name of a lipstick—not just its saturated color—the product tells a richer, deeper, more declarative story. Viewed from this angle, lipstick isn’t just a common indulgence or shared affinity, but a powerful stamp of individuality. The first lipstick name that dove deep enough to reflect a woman’s private inner life was also the first lipstick to acknowledge that women had a private inner life. In 1952, Revlon released its iconic red Fire & Ice. The famous ad for the opaque hue featured a questionnaire that probed the reader’s psyche. “The quiz was fantastic,” says Linda Wells, chief creative officer at Revlon. “It had a psychological aspect that tapped into the duality of the way women see themselves.” The questions alternated between provocative (“Do you secretly hope the next man you meet will be a psychiatrist?”) and playful (“Do you ever wish on a new moon?”), exposing the many contours of a woman’s identity. “It confirmed women had conflicting wishes and desires, as well as a rich inner life that could in some ways be expressed with a beauty product,” says Wells. “Remember, this was 1952. Women weren’t seen as multidimensional. You weren’t lots of different things in one package.” The following year, Revlon launched another classic lip color, Cherries in the Snow, a chilly red with a vivid name that prompted an emotional response (Sylvia Plath wore the shade and referenced it in The Bell Jar—enjoy psychoanalyzing that one). “The name is poetic, not logical,” says Wells. “Cherries don’t grow when it’s snowing. But you 40 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
envision that contrast, and it becomes a whole story.” Today, the beauty experts behind the industry’s best-selling lip colors are also skilled storytellers; they distill a world of intent into a single word or phrase. Take Charlotte Tilbury’s wildly popular Pillow Talk, a beige-y pink tint that inspired an online frenzy when it launched. “Pillow Talk was all about evoking a sumptuous, come-hither pout,” says Tilbury, a makeup artist and the founder of her eponymous line. “It’s sensual and naughty, while also speaking to the silky texture of the lipstick.” The name seduces us with subtext—it conjures a delicate hue while exuding sex appeal. That dual meaning is a recipe for success. Other famous lip colors have names that take a less subtle approach, echoing both the intensity of the shade inside the tube and the mentality of the person wearing it. Chanel’s number one red is a bolt of crimson called Pirate—a word that’s basically shorthand for all the world’s vices, rolled into one spirited package. And then there’s M.A.C.’s Ruby Woo, a matte cherry that out-reds all its rivals. First released in 1999, the classic pinup shade is among the top-selling lipsticks across the country and arguably the most phonetically pleasing. Pronounce the name, and you sound as though you just touched something hot or experienced a quick adrenaline rush. The beauty of it? You did. It takes a particular kind of genius to develop a product name that captures and then sustains the imagination—and François Nars is that particular genius. “I want to give products a character and an identity; I give them names that bring them to life and click with women,” says the French makeup artist, who started his beauty empire in 1994 with a collection of 12 lipsticks. Since then, Nars has dreamed up original names for every formula in his line. “I keep a notebook at my side and bedside so I can write down my inspirations at any moment.” For Nars, inspiration assumes many forms. His cult classic Schiap lipstick is an electric pink with moody blue undertones and is named for designer Elsa Schiaparelli; it’s a manifestation of the creative mind. But Nars’s most iconic color name has a more carnal flush to it. “Orgasm” aroused a global response when it launched as a blush almost 20 years ago (it’s now a popular lip color, too). “I remember thinking, Oh, wow, it all makes sense,” says Yarrow. “You do get a nice flush when you orgasm.” A simple connecting of the dots is exactly the reaction Nars was going for. “It didn’t feel daring,” he says. “I just thought the color was a good way to mimic an orgasm.” It turns out that honesty—not innuendo—gave Orgasm its edge. The peachy lipstick version is now attracting a new generation of fans to the concept, but for Nars, Orgasm represents a moment in time when naming products was a purely gratifying experience. “These days, the process is a bit more challenging given legalities surrounding usage rights,” he says. At least no one can claim exclusive rights to an orgasm.
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Licensing headaches aside, some marketing realities can be a source of inspiration, says Peter Philips, creative and image director at Dior. “We’re a French house, but we’re also a worldwide brand. Not all of our customers speak the same language, so numbers play an important role for us.” At Dior, a number can possess more significance than a name. Just consider the classic red Dior 999. The best-seller is a composite shade of two reds created by Christian Dior in 1953 (known then simply as 9 and 99). The combined numbers pay tribute to that legacy while signaling something entirely new. “That kind of storytelling and detective work is something we try to do over and over again,” says Philips, who designs Dior’s luxury products and embeds messages in their names with the finesse of a Freemason. His newest lip-color collection, Ultra Rouge, has formulas that allude to the year 1947 (when Dior showed his first collection) and includes a fresh red called Ultra Kiss 555, which contains a clever double meaning. “In most countries, 555 is a lucky number,” he explains. “So this shade is literally a good-luck kiss.” If beauty is a secret code, then makeup artist and entrepreneur Bobbi Brown is the visionary who cracked it. In 1990, she designed a tawny lipstick that she called— blatantly—Brown. The bullet stood out in fresh, dewy relief against the chalky and aggressive hues of the time. “The colors on the market were so loud and garish because lipstick was supposed to be this mood-changer,” says Brown. “I thought it would be exciting to just do something that made sense.” Brown (the color) and Brown (the creator) sent a straightforward message that resonated with women everywhere (it also jump-started the brown-makeup trend that pulsed through the decade like a caffeine kick). When Brown launched a complete lipstick collection a year later, she held to the same spare, confident approach. “The first 10 lipsticks I designed were named things like Orange, Red, and Pink,” she says. “I took
the guesswork out because I wanted to make beauty easy and accessible.” She succeeded by doing exactly that. Brown may balk at the notion that she started a makeup revolution (“I’m glad it’s called that; to me it’s just common sense”), but the staying power of her message proves that she struck a deep chord. With a new wellness line called Evolution_18 and a return to her roots (“I have an agent, and I’m doing makeup again”), Brown is doubling down on her back-to-basics philosophy. “When people hire me, I know it’s because they want me to make them look like themselves, not change them into something they’re not,” she says. “And I’ve never been more confident that that’s what makes women the most beautiful.” The idea that beauty can exist on its own, independent of any other guise or deeper meaning, may be the boldest, most naked statement of all. And it’s one that Wells, who is also the founding editor of Allure, is embracing with her new makeup line, Flesh. “I picked that name because it’s earthy and visceral and something that you can almost feel,” she says of the range of eclectic nudes, which she designed to complement all skin tones. “‘Flesh’ is not that beige crayon. It’s every color of skin; it’s the color of your skin.” With frank, physical names such as Hungry, Bruise, and Firm, the lipsticks in Wells’s line present a stark contrast to that original Fire & Ice ad, which explored a woman’s inner landscape. And that’s the point. “Women today, well, we know we have dimension,” she says. “That’s just a given. This is about claiming your physicality and feeling the very best in your skin.” Overt and explicit or secretive and subliminal, the most effective lipstick names have one thing in common: “They offer an emotional benefit,” says Yarrow. “People don’t want to listen to what makes a product great. What they want to know is, ‘What’s in it for me?’” That’s certainly a deeply personal question. And sometimes the answer is right there in the name. THE LIPS GUIDE 2018 ALLURE 45
{ BEHIND THE SCENES }
A mash-up of iconic colors, including Dior 999, Charlotte Tilbury Pillow Talk, Flesh Queen, M.A.C. Russian Red, Tom Ford Violet Fatale, Nars Schiap, and M.A.C. Twig.
bella hadid has an eye for c o l o r. photographed by daniel jackson 46
THE WOMAN WHO NEEDS NO INTRODUCTION ANNOUNCES HERSELF IN SHADES OF TANGERINE, CANARY, AND RED-HOT PINK. coral society Fiery salmon highlights warm skin tones. Try patting the edges of color with a finger to give the look a lived-in feelâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and make the mouth seem a little fuller. Makeup colors: 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Inflame and Rouge Dior lipstick in Stand Out by Dior. These pages: Fashion stylist, Michael Philouze. Makeup: Romy Soleimani. Hair: Esther Langham. Manicure: Casey Herman. Production: Prodn.
O U R FAVO R I T E EQUESTRIAN, 2 1 -Y E A R- O L D BELLA HADID, SUBMITS TO A RAPID-FIRE BEAUTY QUIZ. What’s in your purse? Skin care, mostly: a moisturizer, three serums, a night face mask, and my [Dior] Lip Glow. Hair risk you’d like to take? I definitely want to do a pixie cut. I want to do bangs again. I want to go blonde. Right now I love a long weave—I’m obsessed with long hair. Do you have any beauty idols? Cher has so much joy and is such an amazing person. I aspire to be like her for the rest of my life. And Monica Bellucci is just one of the most beautiful women of all time. Best cure-all? My mom always said, “Drink water. You have a stomachache, a headache? Drink water.” She said it would heal everything, and now I’m realizing she was so right. But I have to force myself. I’m not a good water drinker. What’s your foolproof feel-good move? At night, I have meditation music to prepare for the next day. If I’m having a bad day, I’ll text my friend and she hypes me up. She’s like, “You got this. You’re here.” Best drugstore buy? Sheet masks. The best are from Korea. —KELLY BALES David Koma dress. Jacquemus top. Details, see allure.com/credits.
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palm beach pink To let a bright color speak for itself, makeup artist Romy Soleimani recommends a light touch on the rest of the face. “You can play with sparkles and highlights as long as it feels easy—shimmery shadow can give the eyes another dimension without any heaviness,” says Soleimani. Rouge Dior lipstick in Rose Caprice by Dior.
morning glory Choose the right lip shade and you may just open your eyes to irises of a deeper, richer, sparklier color. Soleimani (who mixed neon pink with coral for the look you see on the opposite page), often finds that painting the mouth actually does more to enhance the eyes than painting the lids. Her guidelines: “Blue and violet bring out the yellow in green or hazel eyes, and orangey tones bring out bright blues and aquacolored eyes.” To turn blue eyes Elizabeth Taylor–level violet, try a marigold hue, like Dior’s limited-edition Rouge Dior Sunny Matte, shown on this page. Dior’s Sunny Matte shade is no longer available, but to re-create Hadid’s look on this page, try Nyx Macaron Lippies in Citron. Opposite page: Rouge Dior lipstick in Ultra Kiss by Dior.
don’t be shy “I’m very self-conscious about wearing a red lip,” says Hadid. “I usually stick to nudes and darker colors, but this shoot made me come out of my comfort zone a lot.” Rouge Dior lipstick in Ultra Star by Dior. Opposite page: Paco Rabanne dress. Details, see allure.com/credits.
gemini rising Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no need to limit yourself to just one hue if there are two that strike your fancy, as in the look on the opposite page. Choose matte formulas to keep blending to a minimum, but a little movement is the name of the game, so pick shades that will look good if there is a bit of color transfer when you inevitably close your mouth. Dior pants. Opposite page: Marni earring. Makeup colors: Rouge Dior lipstick in Stand Out and Darling by Dior. Details, see allure.com/credits.
54
B AC KG R O U N D BEAUT Y
On a busy day, Susie Juray (left) will see 10 to 12 clients (about half of whom have traveled from outside of Los Angeles).
Juray’s most popular request is a single Swarovski crystal, followed by the more expensive diamonds in gold. “People gravitate toward the shine,” Juray says.
Welcome to Kandyland A LOOK INSIDE THE LOS ANGELES TOOTHGEM STUDIO WHERE “A SPARKLING SMILE” TAKES ON A WHOLE NEW MEANING. BY BRENNAN KILBANE The hardest part about affixing multiple tiny gemstones only slightly larger than sesame seeds to the teeth of a living human person has nothing to do with the meticulousness it requires. Nor does it have anything to do with straddling the roles of both jeweler and dentist, two careers fundamentally rooted in precision and discipline but not frequently linked. It’s not painstakingly sourcing the best Swarovski crystals on God’s green earth or even asking Kendall Jenner to lie absolutely still while you apply semipermanent accessories to her teeth. No, the hardest part of offering such a wildly specific service is figuring out what to call it. “It took me six months to come up with the name,” says Susie Juray, aka Tooth Kandy, aka owner of the United States’ most popular destination for getting small gems glued to your front teeth. “It was to the point where I couldn’t sleep, I couldn’t eat, because I knew the name was so important.” After brainstorming with an artist friend, they came up with Tooth Kandy. “It is the only adequate name for what I do.” For the past six years, Tooth Kandy has operated out of the back of Kokopelli Ink Tattoo in central Los Angeles, right next to Kokopelli Smoke Shop—Juray owns both. She spent the first 16
photographed by carly foulkes
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One of Juray’s special touches: bubblegumflavored gloves used by pediatric dentists.
“I’M TRYING TO BE THE GUCCI OF T O O T H G E M S .” years of her professional life in the smoking-accessories business, selling everything but the smoke itself, before branching out. “My friends and I are tattoo collectors, so we thought, Why don’t we open a tattoo shop?” she says. “But I don’t tattoo! I was like, What am I going to do?” She was going to bedazzle teeth in the back. Before she started Tooth Kandy, tooth jewelry was an economy relegated to orthodontists’ offices and Coachella, though Juray claims jade teeth adornments were popular among Mayan princesses, lending the concept an illustrious past. Juray carved out a space for herself offering dental adornments as a luxury cosmetic service, complete with candy-apple-red branding. Medically, we have come a long way from the Mayan dynasty—gems are not drilled into the teeth, as they historically had been, but glued on with the same stuff orthodontists use to keep braces brackets in place. While she’s not a medical professional, Juray trained under an orthodontist to master the procedure, which is painless, reversible, and takes about 30 minutes. Her shop is meticulous about raw materials. “We get them only from authorized Swarovski retailers,” Juray says. “You can run any of my Swarovski crystals under a microscope and you will see the brand name engraved in all of them. The best of the best. I’m trying to be the Gucci of tooth gems.” Depending on what you want—from a single logo gem on your front incisor like Adwoa Aboah, a client of Juray’s, to a mosaic “disco-ball tooth”—the whole deal will run you between $100 and $300. The bedazzlement lasts for about six months to a year if you avoid caramelized things and chewing gum. Perfect for subtly telegraphing to others that you are actually a reincarnated Mayan royal with an eye for tradition but a flair for the modern. Or, you know, for fun. 58 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
{ ORAL HISTORY }
DOCTOR’S ORDERS
PROP STYLIST: RACHEL STICKLEY
Dr Pepper Lip Smacker has been a bestseller since the ’70s. Megan May, brand licensing manager for Dr Pepper, reflects on the quirky balm that someone is buying right now (a tube sells every two minutes).
Dr Pepper Lip Smacker started in 1975 with a handshake agreement between Dr Pepper’s CEO, Foots Clements, and Bonne Bell Lip Smacker’s founder, Jess Bell. At the time, Lip Smacker was only two years old, and Clements was growing Dr Pepper beyond being just a regional Texas, Louisiana, and Arkansas soft drink, so he was looking for new ways to expose folks to the brand. The lip balm launched with an ad in Seventeen magazine that explained how we’d taken a beverage and put it in a lip balm. That wasn’t something other brands were doing at the time. [Lip Smacker had just invented flavored lip balm two years before, in Strawberry, Lemon, and Green Apple.] Now there was a lip balm that smelled and tasted like Dr Pepper, and it was spot-on. It was fun, it was flavorful, it gave your lips a little color—everything just worked. Most licensing partnerships like this only last for two years. People get bored with the product, and they move on. But our partnership with Lip Smacker was renewed after a few years, and again after another few years, and so on. Dr Pepper Lip Smacker is 43 years old now—generations of kids have grown up using it—and it’s still going strong. When you think about other flavors—cherry, watermelon, bubble gum—they’re just not as unique. Ours has survived the test of time. —AS TOLD TO ELIZABETH SIEGEL
photographed by eric helgas
Is That Lipstick... or Filler?
{ I N J ECTA B L E R E P O RT }
GET YOUR FILL
The newest lip-filler techniques mimic the best tools in your makeup bag— they make lips permanently glossy and more defined, but not necessarily bigger. Here’s how the pros are using fillers as...
THE MENU FOR LIP INJECTIONS USED TO BE LIMITED—BIGGER, POUTIER, DUCKIER. BUT NOW DOCTORS ARE USING THEIR NEEDLES IN WAYS THAT’LL MAKE YOUR LIPS LOOK SMOOTHER, SHARPER, EVEN SHINIER. A WORDOF-MOUTH PRIMER, COMING RIGHT UP.
LIP LINER: “As
we age, the line around our lips becomes less crisp,” says Melissa Doft, a plastic surgeon in New York City. “A little filler helps delineate them.” Doft uses smaller-than-small dosages (aka microdroplets) of hyaluronic acid around the lips’ border to make it look more defined, similar to the effect you get with a lip pencil. It only takes about half a cubic centimeter of product, “and your lipstick won’t bleed for the next 6 to 12 months,” she says. GLOSS: “Kids have plump, moist lips because they produce a lot of hyaluronic acid naturally,” says Jessica Wu, a dermatologist in Los Angeles. Over time, however, that production wanes and lips get thinner and drier. Once you’re all grown up, small amounts of hyaluronic acid filler injected superficially—so they’re just below the lips’ surface—help bind water to the mucous membranes and restore that youthful plumpness and smoothness, says Wu. The result isn’t Lipglass, but you will notice a healthy sheen.
HIGHLIGHTER: The Cupid’s bow tends to flatten with age, but the right filler, in the right spots, can restore its shape. “I put a small amount of a more viscous hyaluronic acid filler, like Restylane L, at the peaks of the Cupid’s bow and up along the philtral columns, which are those two ‘legs’ that go from the lips up toward the nostrils,” says Wu. (Just think about where you might apply highlighter.) Defining the Cupid’s bow can also make filled lips look more natural. “If you only fill the lips without enhancing the Cupid’s bow, you could end up with an upper lip that goes unnaturally straight across and sticks out, like a duck,” says Wu. CONTOUR: “To make lips look pillowy, you want more filler in the center of the lips than on the sides,” says Doris Day, a dermatologist in New York City. It creates the same kind of effect as dabbing lip gloss onto the bottom of the lower lip—only, you know, using needles. “I often put a little filler in the chin as well to bring the lower lip forward without having to overfill the lips,” says Day. —BRENNAN KILBANE
62 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
artwork by nicola kloosterman
THE EVOLUTION OF ENHANCEMENT
1893 Gustav Neuber, a German plastic surgeon, uses fat from a patient’s arm to fill a scar, paving the way for fillers.
1899 In Vienna, a surgeon injects paraffin into a man’s scrotum, and doctors then start injecting it into lips (and breasts and noses). Most patients wind up with permanent masses, called paraffinomas.
1960s Doctors begin injecting liquid silicone into lips. The permanent material causes bumps and nodules, but the practice continues for decades.
1981 The first collagen filler, Zyderm, is FDA approved. It’s derived from cows and requires an allergy test. Human-collagen fillers follow 22 years later.
1984 Dermatologist Arnold Klein pioneers collagen lip injections in—where else?—Beverly Hills. “Lips are the only visible sexual organ,” he tells The New York Times years later.
1996
{ I N J E C TA B L E R E P O R T }
Swedish scientists create Restylane, the first nonanimal hyaluronic acid filler. It’s approved by the FDA in 2003, but not approved for the lips until 2011—so doctors use it on the lips off-label for years.
2015
Kylie Jenner admits she had her lips injected. Google searches for “lip fillers” increase by 11,300 percent within 24 hours.
2016 Juvéderm Volbella XC, the filler with the lowest concentration of hyaluronic acid out there, is approved by the FDA. The gel has a soft consistency that’s ideal for subtle enhancement and filling lines around the lips.
2018 Kylie Jenner says, “I got rid of all my filler [two wide-eye emojis and a smiley face]” on Instagram. Google searches for “lip filler removal” spike 10,000 percent that same day. —JESA MARIE CALAOR
WITH THE TERRITORY Lip fillers come with side effects. Most likely to occur: swelling. Your lips may be at least twice their size for the first few hours, so make plans afterward only if you’re willing to divulge where you’ve been. “I’d advise a low-key night, just to be safe, and avoid eating salty foods right after, too, to minimize swelling,” says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston. “Skip happy hour and sleep on an extra pillow for the same reason. Don’t worry if you toss and turn—the filler’s not going to move, I promise.” But that’s no guarantee you’ll wake up and see your final results. “A quarter of my patients experience minor swelling for a few days,” says Robert Anolik, a dermatologist in New York City. Also likely: a few days of bruising where the needle entered the skin (icing immediately after helps). And if you get cold sores, your doctor should prescribe Valtrex beforehand to head off a flare-up, which can be triggered by the stress of the injection. Less-talkedabout side effects? Loose or sagging lip skin after habitual overinflation (say, filling your lips to twice their size for years at a time), says Santa Monica dermatologist Karyn Grossman. —JESSICA CHIA
64 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
Confessions of a Lip-Filler Virgin Why, at age 68, did I decide to get lip fillers? Well, I started noticing some wrinkling around my lips—my mother has the same lines, even though neither of us is a smoker. There was one wrinkle that was quite pronounced that just bothered me, so my doctor filled in the lines I was worried about. I definitely didn’t want the full-blown lip filler that the movie stars have. This just makes my lips more rounded, so when I put my lipstick on, they look fuller. I did it just for me. I’m a recent widow—I’m not looking to go out and meet anybody or anything. I was married to a dermatologist for 47 wonderful years. He did fillers on patients, but he always told me I didn’t need it: “You’re beautiful the way you are.” I don’t think other people notice the change, but I do, and it makes me happy. I’ll definitely go back. It made me feel upbeat—kind of like a rebirth. —AS TOLD TO B. K. BY A PATIENT OF MELISSA DOFT’S
A crash course on the language of lip fillers.
Talk the Talk
Cubic centimeter, the volume measurement most doctors use to describe how much filler they’re using. Most syringes hover just under or above 1 cc (but you pay per syringe, not per cc). Subtle lip enhancement usually requires about ¼ to ½ cc.
1
CC:
HYALURONIC ACID: Not an actual acid—it’s a sugar that plumps skin by holding 1,000 times its weight in water. This is the filler itself, the stuff you’re getting injected into your lips. Different versions have different molecular weights (some are bigger and better for volume, and others are smaller and more subtle). It’s naturally found in human joints, for lubrication, and is also used by orthopedic surgeons.
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JUVÉDERM: The hyaluronic acid filler comes in several varieties, two of which are great for the lips. Juvéderm Volbella XC is a soft and malleable filler that’s supposed to last up to a year. (Most last about six months in the lips.) The firmer Juvéderm Ultra XC is preferred among biggeris-better filler fans.
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LIDOCAINE: An anesthetic included in many filler formulas to minimize the pinch of injection. You can enjoy it in Juvéderms Volbella and Ultra, Restylanes Silk and Refyne, and more.
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HYALURONIDASE:
A chemical that dissolves hyaluronic acid fillers. In other w o rd s : a s a fe t y net if your injector g o e s o v e r b o a rd . RESTYLANE: The OG hyaluronic acid filler has now spawned a whole family. Restylane Silk, a soft filler said to last six months to one year, is the go-to for lips. There’s also Restylane Refyne for lines, and Restylane-L, a firmer filler that some doctors like for Cupid’s bow enhancement. For what it’s worth, experts say the brand of filler doesn’t matter nearly as much as the person injecting it, which is why it’s best to defer to your doctor.
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W h a t 9 9 p e rc e n t o f d o c t o r s s a y g e t t i n g i n j e c t e d w i t h f i l l e r fe e l s l i ke ( i .e . , n o t a w e s o m e , b u t n o t t e r r i b l e ) . BEE STING:
VERMILION BORDER: Another name for your lip line. Dermatologists have started to inject here for more defined lips.
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FAT: Some doctors will plump lips using fat—it’s thicker than fillers, so it’s more dramatic, and it can last for months or years, depending on how it’s injected. “You can’t just take it off a shelf,” says Wu. “You need to have liposuction first. Also, there’s more swelling and bruising with fat than with other fillers.” —B. K., WITH ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY AMBER ANGELLE
COMING AT T R AC T I O N S “In the distant future, we may be able to inject lip fillers using a high-velocity, very focused stream of water instead of a needle,” says S. Manjula Jegasothy, a dermatologist in Miami. “It’s like a Waterpik.” Only it uses a stream of water so powerful, it breaks through the skin, bringing filler ingredients in with it. A technique for injecting Botox with water “is already beginning beta testing, and I could see that happening for fillers down the road,” says Jegasothy. It’s as big a deal as it sounds, and it means injectables could get even less painful than they already are (for reference, they have about the same pain factor as a flu shot—some say they hurt less, since a flu shot involves a much bigger needle) and be less likely to cause bruising. Updates to the fillers themselves are expected, too. Hyaluronic acid formulas that feel more like your lips and cause fewer side effects (like swelling and bruising) are already used in Europe and Asia and could be available in the U.S. in the coming years. “They’re not necessarily a replacement for the fillers we already have, but they’ll give us more options to customize treatments. The new fillers have different chemical properties—cross-linking of hyaluronic acid— that allow them to integrate better with the soft tissues of the face, so they can move more naturally,” says Joubin Gabbay, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills. —J. C.
SHAPE SHIFTER
{ CUTTING-EDGE NEWS }
Ellery top. Lemaire earring. Details, see allure.com/credits. Fashion stylist: Kirby Marzec. Hair: Takayoshi Tsukisawa. Makeup: Yuki Hayashi. Manicure: Ami Vega. Model: Aleece Wilson.
For years, fillers have dominated the lip-modifying field. But a growing number of women are looking to amplify their lips in a different way—one that can’t be found at the business end of a syringe. Meet the lip lift. By Jolene Edgar photographed by jens ingvarsson 66 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
COURTESY OF DR. LARA DEVGAN, MD, MPH
The path to enhancing your lips used to be found behind door number one (injections) or door number two (actually, there are also injections behind this one). But now more women are choosing to unlock door number three—the lip lift. “No one knew this procedure existed two years ago, but now I have twentysomethings requesting it by name,” says Dara Liotta, a facial plastic surgeon in New York City and Dubai, who performed dozens of lip lifts last year. The standard lip lift has long been done on older patients, often at the same time as a face-lift, but surgeons have modified it in recent years (more discreet scars, faster recovery) to make it an appealing stand-alone option for younger patients. Typically done under local anesthesia in less than an hour, the operation shortens the space between the bottom of the nose and the top of the lips (aka the philtrum) by carving out a bullhorn-shaped strip of skin just below the nostrils. “The procedure raises the vermilion border [the edges of the lips], causing lips to look more enhanced, and defines the Cupid’s bow, so its curves are prominent and crisp,” says Jennifer L. Walden, a plastic surgeon in Austin. And why not just get fillers? “I’m seeing a lot of patients tired of repeat injections—maybe they’re bruising each time, or maybe their lips don’t always turn out exactly the same—and they want something more permanent and consistent,” says Michelle Henry, a New York City dermatologist and Mohs micrographic, reconstructive, and cosmetic surgeon. “The lip craze is also evolving. People are focusing on the more nuanced structure and shape of their lips, which this surgery can address elegantly, rather than just wanting to be full at all costs.” Doctors are, essentially, removing a wedge of skin when they perform a lip lift—the larger the wedge, the greater the lift—but results are still customizable. “We can manipulate the shape of the excision to make subtle changes in the Cupid’s bow,” like giving its peaks a more obvious boost or minimizing asymmetries, says New York City plastic surgeon David Shafer. One could argue that worrying about your philtral length is some next-level self-scrutiny, and it is. But according to experts (and anatomy textbooks), there is an ideal measurement, should you choose to care: 11 to 13 millimeters for women and 13 to 15 for men. And even if genetics are kind enough to deal you a philtrum within this range, “the space can expand one to three millimeters each decade,” says Lara Devgan, a plastic surgeon in New York City. (Blame dwindling collagen and stretching ligaments.) Curious as to the state of your own philtrum? Open your mouth: “On someone with a proportionate philtrum, a sliver of the upper incisors can be seen when lips are gently parted and the mouth is in repose,” says Devgan. “As the philtrum drops, the top teeth become hidden behind a bulky upper lip.” That bulk can cause the top lip to curl under—an issue commonly mistreated with an abundance of filler. Beverly Hills plastic surgeon Sheila Nazarian blames the flock of duck lips she’s remedied on injectors “trying to roll up top lips with filler when what those patients needed was this surgery.” A lip lift will run you anywhere from $2,000 Before to $8,000, depending on where you live. We This 48-year-old patient had tried recommend choosing a board-certified plastic fillers but felt they gave her a surgeon, and definitely expect downtime: protruding upper lip and wanted “Maybe three days of a slight pulling sensation more natural-looking fullness. and two weeks of swelling,” says Nazarian. Most patients don’t need prescription pain medication—just ice and Tylenol. After about one week, stitches come out, and redness can be veiled with concealer. “This new acceptance of downtime is an interesting phenomenon among millennials,” says Liotta. “They want the most perfect result and realize it can’t always be found in a syringe.” But keep in mind: When the tool at hand is a scalpel and not a needle, the result isn’t going to wear off in a few months. If you indeed consider it perfect, that’s great news. If you don’t—or eventuAfter ally tire of it—permanence is far less thrilling. Three weeks after a lip lift, So when in doubt, we’re happy to recommend she has a fuller upper lip and a some great lip liners. more defined Cupid’s bow.
THE 7 BEST LIP PRODUCTS YO U’ VE N E VE R HEARD OF Call us the Lewis and Clark of lipstick. The Buzz Aldrin of balm. Our scouts explored the runways of Paris, the souks of Morocco, and Springfield, Missouri (yep), to find the sweetest props for your lips. By Meirav Devash
{ UNDER THE RADAR }
PARIS BERLIN LE CRAYON LEVRES IN CR 211 Recommended by makeup artist Benjamin Puckey
HENNÉ ORGANICS ROSE DIAMONDS LIP EXFOLIATOR Recommended by Kerrilynn Pamer, cofounder of the CAP Beauty boutiques At clean-beauty mecca CAP Beauty (in New York City and Los Angeles), shelves burst with natural lotions and balms. Suffice it to say, Pamer has tested a lot of organic lip things. This formula, made with sugar, coconut oil, and rose oil, was special. “I fell in love as soon as I tried it,” she says. “It’s great for exfoliating without being super aggressive. And it’s easy. Just rub it around your lips and wipe it off.” Should you accidentally ingest it, consider it an inadvertent dessert. “It’s really sweet and delicious,” says Pamer.
photographed by eric helgas
L.A. GIRL MATTE FLAT LIPSTICK IN MANIC AND LOVE TRIANGLE Recommended by makeup artist Mark Carrasquillo Even for the fanciest makeup artists, there’s a thrill in finding highquality, low-priced lipstick. “The texture [of these formulas] is insane,” Carrasquillo told Allure backstage at a show in Paris, where he mixed these two L.A. Girl shades to create a stunning winetinged fuchsia. He bought them last-minute at a local beauty store, and the tubes were not clearly labeled. Allure’s own Sophia Panych was able to suss out the brand behind the formula, which was beautiful on every model’s skin tone that day. Another thing she sussed out: The lipsticks are available in the U.S. at Ulta (for $5).
PROP STYLIST: RACHEL STICKLEY
A great lip pencil is hard to find. There’s a fine line (see what we did there?) between too soft and smeary and too hard and waxy. These pencils walk it perfectly. “They’re matte yet creamy, the color is saturated, and they glide easily,” says Puckey, who discovered them in Paris (you can get them online now). And the pencils’ old-school No. 2 design isn’t just aesthetic: “You can sharpen them into a fine point because they’re wooden.”
POPPY AND SOMEDAY CORIANDER LIP STAIN Recommended by Allure senior beauty features editor Cotton Codinha
AQUAREVEAL SMOOTH TALKER WATER PEEL FOR LIPS Recommended by Courtney Dunlop, founder of Good Skin Day, a boutique and spa in Springfield, Missouri
Organic beetroot, coriander (otherwise known as cilantro), and EVOO could be the makings of a delicious salad, so Codinha’s application method for this scarlet stain makes sense. “I just stick my whole mouth in the pot,” she says. “Don’t share makeup with me.” Her method “gives the perfect, almost-inflamed brightness that chapped lips get in the winter, but without the pain.” Certainly without the chap, too, since coconut oil and shea and cocoa butters do a stellar job of soothing dryness and locking in moisture. “I feel prettier with it on, while maintaining some mystery as to what exactly is making the improvement.”
This “peel” contains softening glycerin and no potentially irritating scrubbers or sting-y acids and enzymes, so it’s ideal for sensitive skin. But it still lets you indulge in the type of controlled body horror show that skin-care lovers relish: “You massage the gel on dry lips and what look like chunks of dead skin roll off. It’s so satisfying,” says Dunlop, who uses it to create a perfectly smooth (but not greasy) canvas before she swipes on matte lipstick. Those chunks aren’t all actually dead skin, though (sorry, drama queens). The polymers in the gel are also falling away as you rub—and buff your lips silky and flake-free in the process.
AKER FASSI Recommended by Allure deputy beauty director Sophia Panych
KOSÅS WEIGHTLESS LIP COLOR IN THRILLEST Recommended by makeup artist Katey Denno
It looks like a vessel for a dollhouse-size tagine, but this clay pot hides a different delight: Berber lip stain (sold as aker fassi in northern Africa). It’s a traditional recipe made from ingredients like terra-cotta and poppy seeds. Applied the Berber way, with a finger dipped in water or oil to activate the clay, the sheer, brick-red tint is easy to build up on lips or cheeks. “It leaves the prettiest tint but stains like holy hell,” warns Panych (who first saw it at Paris’s Buly 1803 boutique). Her hard-won advice: Dip a brush in water, cream, or oil and swirl it around the pot before touching down on lips.
A vibrant orange-red lipstick that’s super moisturizing and doesn’t contain petrolatum, propylene glycol, and other not-green things? For Denno, discovering this bullet in the wild was like finding a unicorn. She was at the 2016 Echo Park Craft Fair in Los Angeles, where Kosås had set up shop. “One of the girls at the stand was wearing it, and I said, ‘I’ve got to have that color in my kit and on my lips.’” The juicy shade is bright and balanced, thanks to a nearly imperceptible hint of blue. “I tap it on for a light wash of color or go to town and swipe a few layers on straight from the tube.”
THE LIPS GUIDE 2018 ALLURE 69
MOUTHS THEYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE A HIGHLY EROTICIZED BODY PART. BUT UNDER THE FEMALE GAZE, LIPS ARE MEANT TO BE SEEN...AND HEARD. BY COTTON CODINHA
photographed by quentin jones 70
NO ACCIDENT Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no reason you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t challenge the very structure of the face, like makeup artist Georgina Graham did when she painted on this skewed lavender kiss. And why not translate disco-ball glitter lids to your lips? No need to blot if you really want to leave your mark. This page, on Olivia Anakwe: Miu Miu sweater. Tibi cardigan. Completed Works earring. Makeup colors: Colorful Face Powders in Date Night and Liquid Lipstick in Lavender Purple by Sephora Collection. Opposite page, left: Jil Sander top. Vice Special Effects Lip Topcoat in Litter by Urban Decay (great on eyes and lips). Right, on Saffron Vadher: Jil Sander top. Details, see allure.com/credits. These pages: Fashion stylist, Valentine Fillol-Cordier. Makeup: Georgina Graham. Hair: Shiori Takahashi. Manicure: Robbie Tomkins. Prop stylist: Joanna Goodman.
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M ATC H P O I N T S By all means, coordinate your orange-red lips to your hat, blazer, nails, and fuzzy slippers. If you really want to challenge yourself, though, make the color scheme metallic chartreuse. Next-level coordination isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t about blending inâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it guarantees you will stand out. This page: Gucci dress and sunglasses. Faustine Steinmetz top. Judy Blame necklace. Makeup colors: Lip Studio Glitter Fix Glitter Lip Gloss in Shadow Hunter and Gold Boost by Maybelline New York. Opposite page: Valentino suit. Alyx sweater. Jil Sander top. Tibi slippers. Area hat. UK Tights tights. Powermatte Lip Pigment in Light My Fire by Nars. Details, see allure.com/credits.
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FINISHING SCHOOL Bright colors arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only way to play. Varnish your lips with a slick of gloss (bonus points if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a little holographic, like your jacket). Or outline your lips and skip the fill. For the look at right, Graham chose a navy (and very smudgeproof) liner as a bold nod to Roy Lichtenstein. This page: Sies Marjan jacket. Prada dress. Racil earring. Makeup colors: Brow Pencil in Dark Brown and Hydrating Lip Shine in Soft Blush by Neutrogena. Opposite page: Loewe dress. Jil Sander top and pants. Isa Arfen shoes. Chromat sunglasses. UK Tights tights. Makeup colors: BarePro Concealer in 12 by BareMinerals and One Fine Line Liner in True Navy. Details, see allure.com/credits.
TOP TO BOTTOM Contrasting lip colors look twice as interesting when worn together. To keep them from blurring and blending, fill each lip with pencil and then finish with a matte lip paint, like Graham did at left. When thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not a mirror in sight, run the opposite direction with one creamy, blindingly bright hue dabbed on (and a little over) your lipsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; borders. This page: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC dress. Frame top. Clyde hat. Claire Barrow earring. Linda Bee pin. Makeup colors: Easy Breezy Brow Sculpt + Brow Pomade in Rich Brown and lipstick in Divine Wine by CoverGirl. Opposite page: Louis Vuitton top, skirt, earrings, belt, and glove. Makeup colors: Lipmix in Yellow and Medium Nude by M.A.C. Details, see allure.com/credits.
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{lips} THE WHO-TO-GO-TO GUIDE FOR LIP FILLERS GOOD ENOUGH FOR HIGH-DEF TV, DENTAL WORK THAT DOESN’T LOOK IT, AND MORE.
illustrations by maria ines gul
{ NEW YORK CIT Y } LIP FILLERS Doft Plastic Surgery, Melissa Doft. More than one Allure editor treks from our (way) downtown offices to the Upper East Side to get lipfiller touch-ups here. 755 Park Ave. 212-600-4109. Rowe Plastic Surgery, Norman M. Rowe. Speedily delivers some of the best (and least immediately swollen) results we’ve gotten. 820 Park Ave. 212-628-7300. Union Square Laser Dermatology, Shereene Idriss. An ace at fixing bad work—but we recommend just going to her in the first place. 19 Union Square W. 212-366-5400. COSMETIC DENTISTRY Gary A. Rabinowitz. His before-andafters speak for themselves—always straighter and whiter, never talkshow-host-ier. 515 Madison Ave. 212-832-5214. Lowenberg, Lituchy & Kantor, Brian Kantor. Where our favorite dermatologists send patients who want to polish their smiles, too. 230 Central Park S. 212-586-2890. Madison Dental Arts, David Greene and Ellen Greene. Past patients (some of whom are notable beautyindustry players) are more than happy to provide word-of-mouth advertising. 275 Madison Ave. 212-532-1400. Real Smile Dental, Alex Rubinov. This practice is technically in New Jersey, but it’s worth a bridge or tunnel to share a dentist with angels. (We can’t divulge which Victoria’s Secret Angels are clients, but have you seen one without a killer smile?) 543 Gorge Rd., Cliffside Park, NJ. 201-941-8877. 78 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
{ BOSTON } COSMETIC DENTISTRY Schumacher Dental, Rob Schumacher. This prosthodontist makes sure new teeth look like your own. 4 Centre Ct., Lynnfield, MA. 781-463-5162. { PHILADELPHIA } LIP FILLERS Bucky Plastic Surgery, Louis P. Bucky. Won’t make lips veer into Housewives territory. 230 W. Washington Sq. 215-607-8954.
COSMETIC DENTISTRY Pamela G. Doray. A Philadelphia favorite for aligners, laser teeth whitening, porcelain veneers, and dental implants. 1528 Walnut St. 215-772-3100. { WA S H I N GTO N , D.C. } LIP FILLERS Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery, Tina Alster. In demand among D.C.’s elite—in other words, the lip injector you would go to if you regularly had to appear on the national news. 1430 K St., NW. 202-628-8855.
VA LU E : $68
YO U RS FO R $ 1 0 allure.com/signupnow The September box includes: Tarte Tarteist Pro Cruelty-Free Lashes and 2017 Allure Best of Beauty Winners- Tarte Tarteist Pro Lash Adhesive, IGK Rich Kid Coconut Oil Gel, Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial; plus, 2016 Readersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Choice Award Winner M.A.C. Ruby Woo Lipstick. All new members will receive a gift valued over $10.
{ DIRECTORY }
COSMETIC DENTISTRY Washington Center for Dentistry, Peter Rinaldi. Always looks for the simplest fix. One patient we know went in asking for the works and Rinaldi suggested a speedy (and transformative) gumline fix instead. 1430 K St., NW. 202-873-2644. { AT L A N TA } COSMETIC DENTISTRY Intown Smile Studio, Susan Estep. Her attention to detail—and disarming personality—set her apart. 950 W. Peachtree St., NW. 404-381-8586. { MIAMI } LIP FILLERS Miami Skin Institute, S. Manjula Jegasothy. So meticulous that she always carefully assesses the angle of the needle’s tip under your skin to lower the risk of bruising. 135 San Lorenzo Ave. 305-569-0067. Skin Associates of South Florida, Jeremy B. Green and Joely Kaufman. For lip fillers in Florida that don’t look like...lip fillers in Florida. 4425 Ponce de Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL. 305-443-6606. 80 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
COSMETIC DENTISTRY Dentistry of Miami, Randy Furshman. Furshman’s work is a balance of the nice-to-have stuff (whitening, veneers) and the need-to-have stuff (treatment of sleep apnea, TMJ relief). 7800 SW 87th Ave. 305-598-2622.
{ DALLAS } LIP FILLERS North Dallas Dermatology Associates, Flora S. Kim. Where prominent Dallas-ites go when they want needlework done. 8144 Walnut Hill Ln. 214-420-7070.
{ DETROIT } LIP FILLERS Grosse Pointe Dermatology & Cosmetic Center, David Balle. Known for his light-handed injections and subtle results. 16815 E. Jefferson Ave., Gross Pointe, MI. 313-886-2600.
{ AUSTIN } LIP FILLERS Walden Cosmetic Surgery & Laser Center, Jennifer L. Walden. Will make your lips look really, really good for your face, not someone else’s. 5656 Bee Caves Rd. 512-328-4100.
COSMETIC DENTISTRY Birmingham Center for Cosmetic Dentistry, Mitchell S. Milan. A top choice for (nonblinding) whitening, straightening, and porcelain veneers. 555 S. Old Woodward Ave., Birmingham, MI. 248-644-2136. { CHICAGO } LIP FILLERS Northwestern Medical Group, Samantha B. Conrad. Conrad is the go-to for lip fillers—for both the city’s laypeople and other dermatologists. 1460 N. Halsted St. 312-926-3627.
COSMETIC DENTISTRY Austin Dental Spa, Mark Sweeney. Go for the top-notch veneers or pro whitening; stay for the hand or foot massage offered (by another staffer) with every service. 3305 Northland Dr. 512-380-1300. { LOS ANGELES } LIP FILLERS Ava MD, Ava Shamban. Has all the bona fides you’d want before you let someone inject something into your lips (author, national lecturer, clinical investigator on FDA trials). 2021 Santa Monica Blvd. 310-828-2282.
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Rebecca Fitzgerald. Her restraint makes her an ideal choice for the filler-curious who are just looking to dip their toes. 321 N. Larchmont Blvd. 323-464-8046. Skin Care and Laser, Derek Jones. Our favorite filler provider in a different metropolis says she’d trust Jones with her own lips any day. 9201 W. Sunset Blvd. 310-246-0495. COSMETIC DENTISTRY Bedford Dental Group, Daniel Naysan. Does dental work you could never identify as “work.” He counts celebrities—and some of Beverly Hills’ best plastic surgeons—as patients. 436 N. Bedford Dr., Beverly Hills. 310-278-0600. Ora Dentistry Spa, Sam Saleh. Specializes in no-prep veneers, which are adhesively bonded to the front of your teeth without having to cut or grind them down first. 421 N. Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills. 310-273-0848.
ORTHODONTIA Grauer Orthodontics, Dan Grauer. This USC professor thinks about tooth tweaks for the long term so you won’t have problems down the road and uses 3D Conebeam CT technology to see how aesthetic changes could affect your overall facial structure. 2200 Colorado Ave., Santa Monica. 310-401-2929. { SAN FRANCISCO } LIP FILLERS Bay Area Cosmetic Dermatology, Kathleen M. Welsh. As good at bad-filler redos as she is with first-timers. 2299 Post St. 415-292-6350.
Prices available upon request. All injectors are board-certified plastic surgeons and dermatologists.
Reporting by: Allure staff, New York City, Boston, Miami, Los Angeles, and San Francisco; Marina Lamanna, Philadelphia; Adrienne Wichard, Washington, D.C.; Emily L. Foley, Atlanta; Kathy Buccio, Miami; Elizabeth Swanson, Detroit; Kristi and Scot Redman, Dallas; Ellen Miller, Austin; Shyema Azam, Los Angeles.
82 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
PEARLIER WHITES
These pages: Fashion stylist, Kirby Marzec. Hair: Takayoshi Tsukisawa. Makeup: Yuki Hayashi. Manicure: Ami Vega. Models: Zuri Tibby and Tehya Elam.
And straighter teeth. And stronger gums. And maybe, just maybe, fewer seasonal allergies? The latest dental advances and gadgets promise to unlock the potential of every woman’s best accessory—her smile—and improve her most intimate relationships. Consider this guide the adult version of the tooth fairy. photographed by jens ingvarsson 84 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
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T H E N E W M O C K TA I L S . . . A R E A L C O H O L- F R E E M O U T H WA S H E S.
Here’s a sobering fact: The ethanol commonly used in mouthwash to kill gumdisease-causing germs can also cause sensitivity and temporary burning and exacerbate dryness. According to recent studies, ethanol-free washes that use gentler antimicrobials can be just as effective—without the hangover. Listerine Sensitivity relies on potassium oxalate to protect teeth from the inside out by forming calcium oxalate crystals. Hello Products Activated Charcoal Mouthwash polishes teeth to a glossy shine. Keeko Coconut Oil Pulling Mouthwash whitens by loosening plaque. Italian-made Marvis Strong Mint Mouthwash uses xylitol to balance pH levels. And for truly delicate flowers, just mix a drop or two of Floris Rose Mouthwash concentrate into water. How refined. —AMANDA BOHNSON
Brushes With Love Toothbrushes, in many ways a biological necessity, have been burdened with all sorts of emotional meaning—some good, some bad, most of it ridiculous. The oral fixations of a select few:
On Loss
On Quirks
On Caregiving
On Earnestness
Adam*, nonprofit adviser, Washington, D.C.
Frances, photographer, Brooklyn
Alessandra, editor, New York City
“After making room for our new baby, my husband and I began sharing a medicine cabinet. We’d been blearily fighting over space when I noticed 10 old toothbrushes taking up a whole corner. He made it midway through his protest that he’d been “saving” them to send to a recycling company he’d read about before we both were in hysterics. They were mailed out, and I moved my creams in.”
“My partner and I care about our dog more than most people probably care about each other, so when we became aware of canine gum problems—and that cleaning requires anesthetic— we got hands-on with nightly toothbrushing. Our pup sticks his tongue out the whole time and I can’t stop laughing, so my boyfriend is the one who does it. Dog’s been sparkly ever since.”
Devon, communications manager, San Francisco
“I fell in love with a girl about a year ago. Days before I ruined the whole thing, I presented her with a toothbrush to keep at my house. I inscribed her initials on it with a Sharpie, in a tiny gesture of romantic fealty. It still sits in my bathroom cabinet. My current wonderful girlfriend hasn’t noticed. It’s a secret, toothbrush-shaped tribute to what could have been.”
“I’d been dating a boy for two months when he bought me a toothbrush. It was a little unexpected, and he was kind of sheepish about it. And then three months later, he was like, ‘Let’s move in together.’ That was three years ago. Mr. Domestic signaled his domestic intentions with the toothbrush.” *Name has been changed.
1945
YEAR GRAND RAPIDS, MICHIGAN, BECAME T H E F I R ST U. S. C I T Y TO F L U O R I DAT E I T S WAT E R I N A N E F F O R T T O P R E V E N T T O O T H D E C A Y. T O D A Y, A B O U T 7 0 P E R C E N T O F T H E C O U N T R Y ’S P O P U L AT I O N D R I N K S F L U O R I DAT E D WAT E R .
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: GOZDE EKER)
{ SMILES 101 }
Eco-friendly Avistar Bamboo Toothbrushes and Lebon Une Piscine à Antibes toothpaste
Dentist Lite
Even It Out
What DryBar is to blowouts, Floss Bar is to smiles. The traveling East Coast outfit offers on-demand cleanings from dental hygienists in scented rooms with upbeat music. “We’ve made whitening, cleaning, X-rays and flossing accessible,” says founder Eva Sadej. Appointments are available until 8 P.M., so regular cleanings are easier to schedule. (Translation: The more you keep up with cleanings, the smoother biannual dentist sessions are likely to go.) If a patient needs greater care, you’ll get a referral to an affiliate dentist for consultation. Floss Bar accepts most insurances, and an exam and whitening cost $315. A quick polish and floss will set you back just $25. —COTTON CODINHA
Metal braces or plastic aligners? Joana Forsea, an assistant professor of orthodontics at New York University College of Dentistry, explains the options.
ES
THE BASICS
N
ERS
BRAC
ALIG
THE COST (money + time)
THE C A N D I DAT E S
THE BOTTOM LINE
Metal wire and brackets move teeth gradually into the desired position by applying pressure via adjustments made every month or so.
Between $5,000 and $10,000 and about 18 to 24 months (depending on the level of adjustment and location of provider).
Most helpful for patients with very twisted or crowded teeth. “Anything in the extremes becomes more difficult for aligners to address,” Forsea says.
With a bite issue or a lot of crowding, braces are ideal. But fear not: “Individual brackets are thinner, smoother, and smaller than 10 years ago,” Forsea says.
Plastic trays prescribed by an orthodontist straighten teeth when updated every one or two weeks (and worn whenever you’re not eating or drinking).
Between $5,000 and $10,000 and about 18 to 24 months (depending on the level of adjustment, frequency of wear, and location of provider).
Generally, best suited for someone with a good bite (defined as a harmonious top and bottom jaw) and mild crowding of the front six teeth.
Because they’re removable, aligners can feel less challenging to live with (and are easier to hide), but they aren’t a viable option for everyone.
N O T H I N G T O S N E E Z E AT CAN THE RIGHT ORAL ROUTINE LEAD TO FEWER ACHOOS?
We interrupt this 24/7 dental program with a special message about the bane of sneezing and wheezing. More pointedly, scientists have developed a strategy to harness the power of toothpaste to help fight respiratory allergies. Currently, those buggers can be dealt with in one of two ways: by ingesting or spraying meds in the nose indefinitely or by opting for three to five years of a weekly shot to expose you to the very thing that your immune system is overreacting to—say, pollen or pet dander—until you become less sensitive to the trigger. But now, let us hail the third option: Allerdent, a fluoride-optional toothpaste, priced at the doctor’s discretion, that your allergist will mix with a tailored-to-your-allergies liquid
serum containing a small dose of the proteins you’re reactive to. The proteins are too large to enter the bloodstream but carry a slight positive charge, so they can adhere to the slightly negative charge of the lining of your mouth. “They stick for almost 24 hours, in contact with the immune tissue in and around the mouth, where they can interact with the immune system as it learns to ignore them,” says William Reisacher, an otolaryngic allergist at Weill Cornell Medicine in New York City, who helped create Allerdent. All you have to do is brush with it twice daily and most users start to notice an improvement in their symptoms within the first six months, Reisacher says. —JESSICA CHIA THE LIPS GUIDE 2018 ALLURE 87
THE NEXT INDUSTRY RIPE FOR DISRUPTION? YOUR FLOSSING ROUTINE.
At the apex of laziness and innovation, there exists the tooth accessory market. Meet the products that promise gleaming benefits with little work.
Brilliant Ideas
{ SMILES 101 }
STRING THEORY
Boka Mint Floss. Its slippery coat is thanks to sustainable beeswax, not petroleum, and its woven microfiber material expands in response to saliva to catch gunk between your teeth. $5 for a three-month supply.
Flosstime. This automated floss dispenser spits out the exact amount you need (18 inches) and lights up when it’s time to do the deed again the next day. $29.99 for the machine and cartridge. —J. C.
There is no product I won’t try in the pursuit of gorgeous teeth. A perfect smile combines all of the virtues I hold dearest—discipline, hygiene, and dazzling good looks. And because I lack most of them, I rely on the evolving oral-care industry to cater to my incredibly lazy and devastatingly handsome lifestyle. For example, I tried Curaprox Black Is White Chewing Gum, which made my teeth feel squeaky-clean but did not render them whiter. I shattered a glass ampoule of Go Smile Stain Eraser (per instruction!) to release hydrogen peroxide into a small sponge and rubbed it vigorously across my teeth. It worked just as well as brushing but included a sexy heightened risk factor. For ambience, I lit Anya Hindmarch’s toothpaste candle, which combines spearmint, peppermint, and menthol and conjured the smell
Talking Dirty
88 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
of a dentist’s office. I would endorse all of the above, mostly because going to the dentist is terrible, and these make me feel like I’m at least treating my teeth with respect. They’re also all fun, a trait the dental industry is not necessarily known for. If caring for your teeth was as amusing as black charcoal gum or as easy as smashing some glass in your mouth, everybody would do it and our teeth would all be perfect. Now, thanks to bacteria-neutralizing mints and space-age toothbrushes, and I guess toothpaste candles (if they are working on a psychological level), we are that much closer to a future when braces will be a nostalgic shared teen experience, or perhaps reappropriated for torture purposes. For now, this is the dental care of tomorrow, and it tastes vaguely of mint. —BRENNAN KILBANE
Let’s get one thing straight: Orthodontic aligners can harbor some pretty icky stuff. But now a group of researchers has developed a water-attracting film that, according to their study, published by the American Chemical Society, can reduce bacterial growth on the surface of aligners by 75 percent. The first-of-their-kind nanofilms, made from cellulose and chitosan, coat aligners and form a layer of water that keeps microbial communities (critters in your mouth that can cause decay and bad breath) from attaching. This could mean “less staining or discoloring of aligners, decreased odor, and an overall lowered risk of bacteria in your mouth,” says California-based orthodontist Katie M. Bales. The film is still in development, but until something like this is available for purchase, a simple toothbrush and floss continue to be the best first defense against germs. —JESA MARIE CALAOR
Bells & Bristles
Spice World
The techie toothbrush that uses megabytes to give you a killer bite.
For many of us, a “clean” mouth is a minty mouth, and globally, mint is the leading flavor of the oral-hygiene industry—but there are a few regional tweaks. The U.S. leans toward a mixture of peppermint and spearmint, while in the U.K. and China, paste is typically spiked with salt, a natural antibacterial and whitener. In India, cardamom—an antioxidant that helps fight odor—is a common ingredient, and further north, in Japan, green tea and elderflower flavors are freshening breath. If you’re looking to branch out, hipster-beloved Italian import Marvis offers a licoricelaced formula, while French company Lebon has evolved flavor profiles of rose– orange blossom and pineapple. Variety, after all, is the spice of life. —A. B.
Inside the fluoride-white walls of the Apple Store, past thousands of dollars’ worth of iPads and MacBook Pros, through the phalanx of Geniuses, there stands a toothbrush that looks like a Brancusi sculpture and operates like an intelligent robot. It syncs to your iPhone (or iPad or Apple Watch) and dispenses more information than you would normally mull over regarding your teeth or brushing routine. (How often, for instance, do you think about the choreography of your brushing?) The Colgate Connect E1 Smart Electronic Toothbrush does everything a smart toothbrush should do (vibrates across the surface of your teeth), plus some things a
human should (coaches you on technique with a 3D diagram of your mouth, highlighting problem areas to work on and sending the details to your dentist, should you opt in to that feature). But all of this is meaningless to me: It was the in-app gaming function, in which your toothbrush acts as a controller to guide a pirate collecting coins, that convinced me to buy it for $99.95. The box bills its contents as a “Smart Electronic Toothbrush with Artificial Intelligence”—and the name, E1, might indicate there’s more to come. Will tiny mechanized butlers be cleaning our teeth by series E5? Maybe. But for now, I just want to brush up on my pirate game, OK? —B. K.
L E AV E N O T R A C E
GRAHAM POLLACK (PROP STYLIST: GOZDE EKER)
GREEN UP YOUR SMILE ROUTINE .
Public Goods Dental Floss. Biodegradable silk floss in a refillable glass bottle.
+
Ollie & Otto Foamy Tooth Powder. Water turns this dental dust into suds—even the sachet dissolves.
+
Goodwell Premium Toothbrush. The biodegradable brush attaches to the recycled aluminum handle.
THE 25 BEST LIPSTICK TIPS OF ALL TIME* *FROM THE MAKEUP ARTISTS WHO KNOW THEIR WAY AROUND A RED BULLET. BY KATHLEEN SUICO
1 Complement brown eyes with cool bluetoned lip colors, like deep reds or purples. Against blue or green eyes, warm orangereds and corals pop. —Vincent Oquendo
2 When hydrating your lips, more is more: Apply balm past the lip line, onto the skin. Leave it on for as long as possible before putting on lipstick. —Mally Roncal
3 Choose one place (Cupid’s bow, bottom lip) to overdraw your lips with pencil that matches your lipstick—emphasizing a single area looks natural. —Oquendo
{ W H AT T H E P R O S D O }
4 Less is more when you’re wearing blush with bright lipstick— pick a blush that’s in the same color family as your lipstick, and use a light hand. —Mylah Morales
5 Put on a matte liquid lipstick, then apply a regular lipstick over it. Using similar shades—or different ones—creates its own beautiful color and texture. —AJ Crimson
6 A quick way to find the right nude is to look at the inside of your bottom lip. Pull it down; that color is the perfect natural shade for you. —Roncal
7
9
8 Use a wedge sponge or index card as a guide to line your lips with precision— excess product will come off on it, not the skin around the lips. —Crimson
90 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
If you want to make your lips look pouty, use a slightly lighter lipstick on the center of your upper and lower lips than you do at the edges. —Roncal
10 Most people don’t know where their lip line ends. Tilt your head back so you can line the very bottom of your lower lip, and your lips will look fuller. —Robin Black
Creamy lipsticks can be applied with a brush, but most mattes pay off better when you put them on straight from the bullet. —Matin Maulawizada
11
12
14
17
It’s a myth that you should layer setting powder over lipstick. It can oxidize, change the lip color, and accentuate creasing. —Black
THIS PAGE, FROM LEFT: OLIVIA MALONE/TRUNK ARCHIVE; HEATHER HAZZAN/ THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM. OPPOSITE PAGE: HEATHER HAZZAN/THELICENSINGPROJECT.COM.
21 A little bit of concealer around the lips—or two layers of lip liner— keeps your lipstick from migrating or bleeding into fine lines. —Black
Start putting on lipstick at the center of your lips, and saturate the area— rub your lips together and the color will fade into your natural lip line. —Crimson
22
23 Your lips are not the same color as your skin—try lipstick on your lips, not the back of your hand. [Editor’s note: Clean it with alcohol spray first.] —Peter Philips
24
For the most precise red lip, work backward. Apply lipstick, then liner (in the exact same red or a little deeper) to create the shape. —Oquendo
25 Before you put on bold lipstick, gently blot your lips with a piece of Scotch tape to pull off dry bits without irritating your lips like scrubs can. —Black
If you don’t want a high-maintenance look, tap the shade on with your finger. You get a pretty stain effect as opposed to full-on saturated color. —Crimson
Before you put on lipstick, apply a dab of concealer to the center of your top and bottom lips to create dimension. —Crimson
19
18 Lip gloss is fluid—it’s not designed to wear all day. Put your gloss over a coordinating long-wearing lipstick for a glossy lip that actually lasts. —Pat McGrath
Before lipstick, trace your Cupid’s bow with a light shade of foundation to create a brightness that makes lips look naturally fuller and crisper. —Crimson
16
15 Dot gloss onto the center of your upper and lower lips—alone or over lipstick—and press your lips together. You’ll avoid glop on the sides. —Pati Dubroff
20
13 For an easy-towear take on bold lip colors, put on your lipstick, then press a clean finger along your lip line to soften things up. —Dick Page
To make lipstick last longer, absorb oils from your first coat with an oil-blotting sheet, then reapply your color to add shine and coverage. —Troy Surratt
The point of nudes is to make your lips look fuller, not to make them disappear. Choose a shade that’s slightly deeper or brighter than your skin tone. —Surratt
Fill in the entire lip with liner. When the lipstick on top wears off, the color underneath—instead of your actual lip— will come through. —Black
painted lady This story is all about red lips—and we will get to them!—but a more pressing question here might be: How do you apply eight different colors to your eyelids? “I used the tips of my fingers,” says makeup artist Lucy Bridge. “They’re the best tools I have.” Colour Riche Shine Lipstick in Enamel Red by L’Oréal Paris. These pages: Fashion stylist, Melissa Levy. Hair: Mari Ohashi. Makeup: Lucy Bridge. Manicure: Ami Streets. Prop stylist: Joanna Goodman.
Anya Taylor-Joy and red lipstick have lots in common. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re bold, stirring, and impossible to ignoreâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; the former for her ascent to movie stardom, the latter for being, well, red lipstick. And they both have a message for you. By Brennan Kilbane
TWO O F
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photographed by matteo montanari
all lined up The drama of red lipstickâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;without the red lipstick. A little liner (and little else) goes a long way. Helmut Lang suit. Agmes earrings. Smoothing Lip Pencil in Siren by Shiseido. Details, see allure.com/credits.
slippery when wet This candied-apple effect requires layering (and the avoidance of large sandwiches and windy situations). A combination that always delivers shine for us: Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge lipstick in Caprice topped with two coats of L’Absolu Lacquer Gloss in Brave Lips.
a nya’s c h o i c e Taylor-Joy’s favorite red lipstick, bar none, is Maybelline New York SuperStay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick in Pioneer. It’s a deep, vampy blue-red, but that’s not why she likes it. “It does not come off. Ever. I’m a water baby, always jumping into the ocean or doing silly things, and it stays.” We ask: Do you frequently find yourself jumping into bodies of water with vampy red lips? She laughs. “Surprisingly, yes. It’s freedom!” 3.1 Phillip Lim suit. Sies Marjan shoes. Mahnaz earrings. Details, see allure.com/credits.
MOUTHING OFF A N YA TAY LO R -J OY TA L K S F I R ST T I M E S A N D B R E A K I N G O U T.
Quick question that Anya Taylor-Joy and I are dying to know the answer to: Who, in their perverted wisdom, was the first person to wear red lipstick? Which God-fearing person thought, You know what would be cool? If we painted our mouths bright red—really dialed up the pigment 5,000 percent so that you could see our lips from a great distance! Cursory Internet searches tell me that it could have been the ancient Sumerians, or the Egyptians, or the Romans, but none of this is satisfying enough. Was it for glamour? Intrigue? Sex? A really good going-out look? “Dude, I think about that stuff all the time!” Taylor-Joy says breathlessly. We are just wrapping up our interview when we stumble upon the topic we both want to talk about forever. “The ‘first people’ question gets me. Who was the first person to decide that pasta would be fun if it was tubular? And coated in butter? That person’s a genius. Who cut up an avocado and was like, I’m going to eat this green stuff on the inside?” I wonder aloud: Who decided eyelids should be blue? She laughs. “I think we should bring blue eye shadow back.” She is kidding—and the beauty director of this magazine later informs me that it is already back, so her point is actually moot. But Taylor-Joy suggests it in a kind of conspiratorial way that is partly whimsical and partly illicit, and in that moment I think, Absolutely, let’s do this new thing you just thought of. This is a woman who only started acting in movies four years ago (at age 18), whose second film was a critical hit (The Witch), whose fifth was a financial
success and a critical hit (M. Night Shyamalan’s Split), and whose Marvel movie debuts next year (it’s X-Men, The New Mutants, and she gets top billing). That last one just might catapult her into the celebrity stratosphere, which is both exhilarating and anxiety-inducing for her. Now, in the period before her star crystallizes, she can do anything she wants. Taylor-Joy spent her childhood between London and Argentina—her first name is pronounced ANN-yah, which you cannot say without pressing your tongue to the roof of your mouth and smiling. The daughter of a powerboat racer and a psychologist, she grew up with a childhood bedroom featuring a four-poster bed with a canopy—“very fairy-tale-like,” she says. “I could close the curtains at night and enter into my dream world. I was always obsessed with magic.” She’d watch her mom apply red lipstick at her mirror and marvel at its transformative powers—and then she’d turn around and use the same bullet for war paint. “I used to paint stripes on my face and make myself into a cat, or I would play Rambo or something. I was more excited about the color than the makeup,” she says. When she was 14, she cut off her hair and dyed it pink, signifying the onset of her punk phase. “I had this life force, and I was excited to go out and speak my mind and be in different situations, and be in mosh pits, and listen to very angry music,” she says. “I was never angry myself. I just enjoyed the angry music.” Taylor-Joy describes this period as a right-angle departure from the child with the canopy bed, but in hearing her tell it, there is a kind of mystical through line—the idea that people are just characters with the power to change themselves at any time. One example: “I had really, really long blonde hair my whole life, and then I cut it into a bob, and I was like, OK, I’m going to dye it pink, and I’m going to do this and I’m going to do that. And I’m going to create myself again. When you’re born a certain way, and then you suddenly realize you have the ability to change who you are and be whoever you want to be, that’s magical.” This year, she’s Petronella Oortman in PBS Masterpiece’s The Miniaturist, a three-part series commissioned by the BBC about a (real) Dutch girl married off to a wealthy merchant, her (real) dollhouse, and some (fictionalized) voodoo elements. Her performance is quietly intense, just the way Taylor-Joy likes it, and every shot looks like a Vermeer painting; she is the girl with the pearl earring, the pregnant stares, and the porcelain cheeks. In the context of her career, a television miniseries doesn’t seem like a big break, but as a girl who grew up partly in London, Taylor-Joy is exuberant. “Doing BBC period drama is—when I first heard I had the job, I was like, Oh, my gosh, I’m officially an actress. That’s the legitimate thing.” There are many legitimate things in her career, including that superhero franchise that comes out next year, after which she could be Anya Taylor-Joy the movie star. Right now she’s taking the gap year she never had, backpacking, staying in hostels, breathing in and out, waiting patiently for what is to come.
sweet relief As if you needed any assistance in making red lips stand out, might we suggest a high-octane purple liner? Lean into the chaos. Valentino blazer. Agmes earrings. Makeup colors: Paint Wash Liquid Lip Colour in Vermillion Red and Lip Pencil in Crushed Berry by Laura Mercier. Details, see allure.com/credits.
on the matte To get these lips, you no longer need to engage in painstaking blotting or translucent powder sorceryâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you just need a coat of a great liquid lip stain. One of our favorite formulas and a perfect match for the crimson you see here: YSLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tatouage Couture in Red Tribe. Miu Miu jacket. Charlotte Chesnais earring. Details, see allure.com/credits.
A LEGEND OF A PORTRAIT
{ A FINAL WORD }
ELIZABETH TAYLOR MEETS ANDY WARHOL, AND LIPS ARE FRONT AND CENTER.
Andy Warhol, Liz, 1963, silk screen and acrylic on canvas, © 2018. The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc./ licensed by Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York. Photographed at 212 Arts Gallery, NYC.
A casual observer of Andy Warhol’s work might wonder aloud to the person next to them at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, or the Art Institute of Chicago, or the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, “Why was this guy so obsessed with lips?” Take his portrait of Elizabeth Taylor (featured in the artwork above), lips scarlet and ever so slightly overdrawn. Or consider Chairman Mao Tse-tung, lips tinted to match his jacket, even though the guy was not a noted lover of lipstick. And then there’s that collage where Warhol printed Marilyn Monroe’s lips 168 times. Much of Warhol’s artistic formation came about during his days in advertising, a theme that reverberates through his work. Advertising imagery is all about semiotics: symbols, metaphors, showing rather than telling. Lips convey all sorts of messages, from sensuality to hunger to delight. “A lot of what Warhol did with his early treatments of celebrity and beauty came from his start in advertising,”
says Andy Warhol Museum curator Jessica Beck, noting a tendency in the field to “cut the body up into different pieces that were sellable.” As mixed-media artist Indie184 and I look at her latest work, created for Allure—Warhol’s Liz pasted over a canvas of Indie’s signature graffiti art—she muses about what, exactly, is so captivating about the portrait. Elizabeth Taylor wasn’t known for her lips, and yet in the way Warhol imagines her, they are front and center. “It’s the soul, the spirit, the confidence,” Indie offers. Taylor’s legacy emanated from her great beauty, her wild romantic life, and her diamond rings. How do you convey this in a single image? Warhol, with a nod to period lipstick ads, reddened the lips and cast the background in the very same crimson. If there’s anything we’ve learned from dedicating an entire issue to them, it’s that lips are emotive, even when the message is beyond words. —BRENNAN KILBANE
artwork by indie184
100 ALLURE THE LIPS GUIDE 2018
PUMP UP THE VOLUME INTRODUCING THE NE W AND IMPROVED DOUBLE-ENDED VOLUME S E T
Prep, prime, volumize and intensify the look of lashes all at once with this convenient, 2-in-1 lash duo featuring our conditioning Indigo Blue primer and blackest black mascara for bold, dramatic looking lashes. available at revitalash.com ETERNALLY PINK RevitaLash® Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink Pledge. ©2018 Athena Cosmetics, Inc.