swing_set_plans_pluto_express by Bill Calhoun

PLUTO EXPRESS SWING SET KIT

INTRODUCTION Thanks for signing up for our free swing set plans! Your kids will love the finished product, and we hope that you will enjoy the process of Building-YourOwn Swingset. We have planned this project so that most people with basic carpentry skills should have little difficulty. We have also taken extra effort to make sure our instructions are easy-to-follow, so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worry. Chapter 1 of this manual provides all of the background information that you will need to complete this project, including fort site preparation, how to purchase lumber, and tools and techniques. Chapter 2 consists of the step-by-step building instructions for completing the fort. We have included detailed written instructions to accompany the full-page diagrams for the project. Chapter 3 is a short chapter on maintaining and finishing your fort. Where do you start? Your first step should be to briefly read through Chapter 1 to understand the fundamentals of the project. Once you have done this, use Tables 1A and 1B to purchase your lumber and any tools that you do not have access to. You should also take Table 2 if you are planning to have the hardware store make some of the lumber cuts for you. After you have purchased your lumber, plan on about 15 hours to build your fort. All swings, hardware, accessories and add-ons are available on our website, www.byoswingset.com for purchase. Please click here to go to see what accessories you need to complete your new fort! Good luck and let us know if you have any problems! Email: info@byoswingset.com Toll Free: 1-877-777-8144 When you have finished building your swing set, please email or post a picture of your new backyard fun zone on our facebook page.

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Table 1A. PLUTO EXPRESS WOOD MATERIAL LIST Size

Fort Qty 1 2 6 2 0 3 2 2 4 0 0 6 7

Clubhouse Qty 0 0 0 0 1 0 4 0 1 2 1 2 7

4x6x10 4x4x8 4x4x10 4x4x12 2x6x6 2x6x10 2x6x12 2x4x8 2x4x10 2x4x12 5/4x6x8 5/4x6x10 5/4x6x12 * Use 2x6 if 5/4 x 6 is not available ** Add (1) 2x4x12 and (1) 2x4x8 and delete (1) 5/4x6x12 if adding turbo slide

TABLE 1B. TOOLS REQUIRED TO COMPLETE THE PROJECT Required: Circular Saw w/ all-purpose blade (carbide tipped preferred) Electric Drill (cordless preferred) 1-1/8", 7/16" diameter spade drill bit 7/64", 1/4" diameter twist drill bit (all come in standard set) Combination Square Tape Measure (at least 12' long) Extension cord (12' if you have a cordless drill, 50-100' otherwise) (2) Saw horses Socket wrench w/ 9/16" socket 9/16" wrench Hammer Pencil Safety Glasses, Work Gloves, Dust Mask Recommended: Router w/ 3/8"-1/2" radius roundover bit Framing square String Level, String Sand Paper Wood Clamps

Total Qty 1 2 6 2 1 3 6 2 5 2 1 8 14

TABLE 1C. PLUTO EXPRESS Bolt Reference List Type Lag Screws: 3/8" x 2"

Where Used

Tube Slide Supports Swing Plate

Total: 3/8" x 4"

Clubhouse Floor Supports Lower Wall Supports Upper Wall Supports Floor Supports Swing Leg Support Ladder Extra

Total: Carriage: 3/8" x 7" 3/8" x 6-1/2" Washers: 3/8" Flat Total: 3/8" Lock

Swing Beam A-Frame Braces

For all lag and carriage Extra For all lag and carriage Extra

Total: Nuts: 3/8" Hex

Quantity

4 2 6 26 18 16 24 8 2 6 100

2 2

104 11 115 104 11 115

For all carriage bolts

Fort Floors Fort Walls Clubhouse Floors Clubhouse Walls Clubhouse Wall Supports Clubhouse Floor Supports Ladder Roof Boards 6' Deck Guards Tube Slide Supports Extra

70 96 55 96 40 16 40 12 8 8 14

Decking Screws: 8x2-1/2"

Total:

455

Swing Hangers: 6" Shaft Length

Swings

Quick Links:

Swings

* If using optional upgraded swing hangers, then add (8) 3/8x4-1/2" lag screws and (8) 3/8" lock washers and (8) 3/8 flat washers

TABLE 2A. CUT WOOD TO LENGTH FOR PLUTO EXPRESS Description Fort Posts #1, #2 Fort Posts #3, #5, #6, #8 Fort Posts #4, #7 Swing Legs Swing Beam Lower Wall Supports Floor Supports Floor Supports Swing Leg Top Brace Cluhouse Floor Supports Swing Leg Top Brace Clubhouse Floor Support Cluhouse Floor Supports Cluhouse Floor Supports Mid Leg Brace Ladder Steps Ladder Sides Upper Wall Supports

Size as Purchased 4x4x8' 4x4x10' 4x4x12' 4x4x10' 4x6x10' 2x6x10'

Qty Purchased 2 4 2 2 1 2

2x6x10' 2x6x12'

1 1

2x6x12'

2x6x6' 2x6x12' 2x6x12'

1 2 1

2x6x12' 2x4x8' 2x4x10'

1 2 3

Roof Boards Clubhouse Wall Supports Clubhouse Wall Supports 5' Deck Floor 5' Deck Floor End Floor Pieces* 6' Deck Floor 6' Deck Floor End Floor Pieces* 7' Deck Floor 6' Deck Side Safety Guard 6' Deck Front Safety Guard End Floor Pieces* Side/Back Walls 5' Fort Side Wall Clubhouse Floors

2x4x10' 2x4x10' 2x4x12' 5/4x6x10' 5/4x6x12'

1 1 2 1 1

5/4x6x10' 5/4x6x12'

1 1

5/4x6x10'

5/4x6x12' 5/4x6x10' 5/4x6x12'

5 1 3

Clubhouse Floors

5/4x6x10'

Clubhouse Floor End Piece Clubhouse Walls

5/4x6x8' 5/4x6x12'

1 4

Cut to Size 4x4x87" 4x4x10' 4x4x12' 4x4x114' 4x6x9' 2x6x37-3/4"

Cut to Qty 2 4 2 2 1 6

2x6x37-3/4" 2x6x37-3/4" 2x6x16" 2x6x37-3/4" 2x6x16" 2x6x32-3/4" 2x6x6' 2x6x6' 2x6x64" 2x6x26-1/8" 2x4x6'-6" 2x4x37-3/4"

3 3 1 3 1 1 4 1 1 5 2 8

2x4x37-3/4" 2x4x37-3/4" 2x4x37-3/4" 2x4x6' 5/4x6x37-1/4" 5/4x6x37x1/4" 5/4x3x30-1/4" 5/4x6x37-1/4" 5/4x6x37x1/4" 5/4x3x30-1/4" 5/4x6x34" 5/4x6x37-3/4" 5/4x6x37-3/4" 5/4x3x30-1/4" 5/4x6x34-1/2" 5/4x6x28-3/4" 5/4x6x6' 5/4x6x37-3/4" 5/4x3x30-1/4" 5/4x6x37-3/4" 5/4x3x30-1/4" 5/4x3x30-1/4" 5/4x6x23-3/4"

1 3 3 4 3 2 2 3 2 2 5 1 2 1 20 4 5 1 1 4 2 3 24

Label Abbrev. #1, #2 #3, #5, #6, #8 #4, #7 SL SB LWS7, LWS6, LWS5 BLWS6, BLWS7, FLWS7 FS FS SLB FCFS1, LCFS1, CFS2 SLB FCFS2 RCFS, LCFS2, BCFS, CFS1 CFS1 MLB ST LS BUWS6, BUWS7, LUWS5 RUWS5, FUWS7, UWS7 UWS6, FUWS5 CWS1 RB CWS1 CWS2 5F 5F EP 6F 6F EP 7F 6SSG 6FSG EP W 5W CF1 CF2 CEP CF2 CEP CEP CHW

* See Techniques Section for Instructions on Rip Sawing Note: Label each piece according to the table above (the end of the piece is the best place for the label).

Changes if Adding Tube Slide: Add Tube Slide Supports

2x4x12'

2x4x34-1/2" 2x4x26-1/2" Add Tube Slide Foot 2x4x8' 1 cut per tube slide instructions Delete 7' Side Wall - Delete (1) 5/4x6x12' which is cut into (4) 5/4x6x34-1/2"

2 2

TSS1 TSS2

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION GENERAL ASSEMBLY: 1. This swingset should be built on level ground, not less than 6 feet from any structure or obstruction, such as a fence, garage, house, overhanging branches, laundry lines, or electrical wires. 2. Do not build this swingset over concrete, asphalt, packed earth, or any other hard surface. A fall onto a hard surface can result in serious injury to the equipment user. 3. In order to prevent serious injury, children must not use the equipment until properly assembled per these instructions. 4. The maximum fall height for this product is 8 feet. Please refer to the Consumer Product Safety Commission's information sheet on playground surfacing material in these instructions. This information will help you determine the proper amount of surfacing material required to make your play area safe.

OPERATING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Observing the following statements and warnings reduces the likelihood of serious or fatal injury: 1. This equipment is designed for children ages 2-12, with a single occupant weighing no more than 125 lbs. 2. Children playing on this equipment should have on-site adult supervision at all times. Adults should carefully instruct and teach children the following important safety rules before allowing them to play on equipment: 3. Do not to walk close to, in front of, behind, or between moving items. 4. Do not twist swing chains or ropes or loop them over the swing beam since this may reduce the strength of the chain or rope. 5. Avoid swinging empty seats. 6. Sit in the center of the swings with your full weight on the seats. 7. Do not use the equipment in any manner other than the intended. 8. Never get off the equipment while it is in motion. 9. Adults should dress children appropriately and avoid ponchos, scarfs, and other loose-fitting clothing that is potentially hazardous while using equipment. 10. Do not climb on or use the equipment when it is wet. 11. Do not attach items to the playground equipment that are not specifically designed for use with the equipment, such as, but not limited to, jump ropes, clothelines, pet leashes, cables, and chain as they may cause a strangulation.

Consumer Product Safety Commission Playground Surfacing Recommendations Each year, about 200,000 children are treated in U.S. hospital emergency rooms for playground equipment-related injuries - an estimated 148,000 of these injuries involve public playground equipment and an estimated 51,000 involve home playground equipment. Also, about 15 children die each year as a result of playground equipmentrelated incidents. Most of the injuries are the result of falls. These are primarily falls to the ground below the equipment, but falls from one piece of equipment to another are also reported. Most of the deaths are due to strangulations, though some are due to falls. 1. Protective Surfacing - Since almost 60% of all injuries are caused by falls to the ground, protective surfacing under and around all playground equipment can reduce the risk of serious head injury. Falls on asphalt and concrete can result in serious head injury and death. Do not place playground equipment over these surfaces. Also grass and turf lose their ability to absorb shock through wear and environmental conditions. Always use protective surfacing. Certain loose-fill surfacing materials are acceptable, such as the types and depths shown in the table. Certain manufactured synthetic surfaces also are acceptable; however, test data on shock absorbing performance should be requested from the manufacturer. =============================================================== Fall Height In Feet From Which A Life Threatening Head Injury Would NOT be Expected ---------------------------------------------------------------Type of Material

6 "Depth

9 " Depth

Double Shredded Bark Mulch Wood Chips Fine Sand Fine Gravel

6 7 5 6

10 10 5 7

12" Depth 11 11 9 10

Parent Woodworking Safety Working with powertools and heavy lumber can be dangerous activities. You should take every precaution, including following all tool manufacturers guidelines and using the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Tools and Techniquesâ&#x20AC;? section of this manual for tips. Always wear safety goggles when drilling, powersawing, or routing wood. It is also a good idea to wear gloves to prevent splinters in your hand. As with any project, good judgement and a healthy respect for all powertools required for this project would reduce your risk of injury

NOTICE The information in these plans is presented in good faith; however, results can vary depending on user's level of skill. Furthermore, instructions are meant to be safe, and all safety instructions, including those given by tool manufacturers, should be followed. B.Y.O. Products, Inc disclaims any liability incurred in connection with the use of these plans if they are not followed exactly, and in no event shall B.Y.O. Products be liable for amounts greater than the sales price of this order.

CHAPTER 1: GETTING READY A. Site Layout and Preparation It is important to take the time to find the perfect place for your new swingset. For the Pluto Express design, you will need to have a space that is 26’W x 27’D. This includes the extra 6’ safety zone that the Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends. See Diagram 1A for a detailed footprint. In general, you should try to find a relatively level area for the set. The area that the fort sits on must be completely level, even if that means doing a little digging or building up. You can use a string level (see Part C of this chapter) to determine if a large area is level or not. You should also consider the shading pattern of the area. It is not ideal to have a play area that is in the sun continuously. A little bit of shade can make playing on those hot summer days much more enjoyable. Finally, if you live in a neighborhood with a homeowner’s association (H.O.A.), you should check ahead of time to find out if there are any rules regarding building a structure in your yard. Many H.O.A.’s will require that you submit a site plan as well as an idea of what the set will look like. By checking out the H.O.A. requirements ahead of time, you could save yourself some headache later. B. Purchasing Lumber WOOD TYPES Pressure-treated southern yellow pine is one of the strongest, hardest, most decay resistant woods available. It is also very cost effective. We recommend using a non-CCA treated wood, such as the ones sold under the brand names of ACQ Preserve, Osmose Naturewood, or Wolmanized Natural Select. Cedar and Redwood are the other two common types of wood used in swingsets. Neither are as strong as Pine. Some of our customers have used pine for the structural members of the swingset (4x4 and 4x6) and used redwood or cedar for the nonstructural members. Check

with your local lumberyard to find out if a suitable alternative is available. Pressure treated wood has been chemically treated to protect it from rotting, termites, and other forms of decay. Manufacturers treat the lumber by using a pressurized injection method that forces a mixture of water and chemicals into the wood. Until recently, the most common form of chemical treatment is CCA, or Chromated Copper Arsenate. The use of CCA treated lumber has been phased out of use for most applications. It is being replaced with an alternative treatment called ACQ that should be available in lumber yards and Home Depot / Lowes. Many experts believe that this treatment is more environmentally friendly and safer than CCA treated lumber. When working with treated lumber (as well as many other types of lumber), it is recommended that you observe the following precautions: 1. When sawing and machining treated wood, wear a dust mask. Whenever possible, these operations should be performed outdoors to avoid indoor accumulations of airborne sawdust from treated wood. 2. When power-sawing and machining, wear goggles to protect eyes from flying particles. 3. After working with the wood, and before eating, drinking, and use of tobacco products, wash exposed areas thoroughly. 4. If preservatives or sawdust accumulate on clothes, launder before reuse. Wash work clothes separately from other household clothing. 5. You can dispose of treated wood with ordinary trash collection; however, you should not burn the wood. If you want to find out more information about pressure treated wood, there are several sources available on the web. - www.awpi.org (American Wood Preservers Institute) - www.southernpine.com/treated.htm (Southern Pine Council) DIMENSIONS AND GRADING Did you know that if you buy a 4”x4”x8’ post at your local lumber or hardware supply store, the actual dimensions of that lumber will be about 3.5"x3.5"x8.2”? This illustrates the difference between nominal and actual dimensions in the lumber industry, and although this is an industry standard, it can cause confusion to consumers. The dimension quoted by the lumber or hardware store is always the nominal dimension. This is the dimension that is cut from the tree. However, after being cut, the lumber is surfaced to

make it smooth and flat and also dried, with the final result being a reduction in the lumber dimensions. The following table illustrates nominal vs. actual dimensions for some of the size lumber you will be using for this project. NOMINAL DIMENSION 4x6 4x4 2x6 2x4 5/4x6

ACTUAL DIMENSION 3½x5½ 3½x3½ 1½x5½ 1½x3½ 1x5½

All lumber is graded and stamped based on several physical characteristics of the lumber itself. Imperfections such as knots, bowing, twisting, and splitting all reduce the grade of lumber. The higher the grade numbers, the worse the lumber quality. For example, a Grade 2 lumber has more defects than a Grade 1 lumber. Even within the same lumber grade, there can be variation in the quality of the lumber. This is why it is very important for you to visually inspect the lumber before you purchase it to make sure that you are getting the best pieces available. MAKING YOUR PURCHASE Taking the time to purchase quality lumber will pay off later when you are assembling the swingset and fort. For your convenience, there is a lumber material sheet (Table 1A) that you can use in purchasing your lumber. You can choose a lumberyard, a local hardware store, or a national chain hardware warehouse to provide your lumber. If you choose to have a lumberyard deliver to you, make sure that you understand their return policy for lumber. If you choose a local lumber supply store, you may want to call ahead just to make sure that they have all of the sizes that you will need. You should reserve about one to two hours for shopping for your lumber. It is not advisable to shop on the weekends because this is the busiest time for home improvement centers and you may not get help if you need it. Plan to go on a weekday afternoon/evening if possible. During your trip to the hardware store, you can also buy any tools that you may not have access to. Take inventory of your current tools and compare it to the requirement list

(Table 1B) before you go to buy your lumber so that you can buy everything at once. It is also helpful to take someone with you to purchase the lumber. Some of the larger pieces can be heavy and hard to get off the shelf by yourself. Make sure that you inspect every piece for knots, straightness (look down the edge of the wood from one end to the other), or other defects. As far as grade is concerned, make sure that you get #2 or better. Purchase the best grade of wood that you can afford or that is available, especially for the fort walls and fort floor. Thomsonized wood, or other specially treated wood may be a good option because it is generally a better grade of wood. The best place to purchase the lumber for this kit that we have found is a hardware superstore such as Home Depot or Lowes. These stores are located in almost every state and usually carry all of the sizes required. While most stores should now have ACQ treated lumber available, you should call first to make sure. One of the advantages of going to these superstores is that some will cut lumber to length for a small charge (first two cuts are free, $0.25 for additional cuts). We recommend that you use this service for cutting your posts (4x4) to length. Use Tables 2A and 2B to determine the lengths you need. It can be difficult to cut these with a circular saw, and it will only take a few minutes to have the staff cut them for you with their professional equipment. Many hardware superstores also rent trucks right from the store premises for about $20 so that you can haul the lumber home if you do not have access to a pickup truck. Call your local hardware superstore to make sure that they provide these services in your area. Plan on letting the lumber dry for about 2 to 3 days BEFORE you start working with it. Pressure treated lumber can be wet coming out the store, which can make it very difficult to work with. Wet lumber will dull your tools and will also make it difficult to drill straight holes in thick pieces. Go ahead and plan that two to three days into your project schedule because it will be well worth it in the long run. You can use the time to find and prepare your swingset site (Section A of this Chapter).

C. Tools and Techniques TOOLS Table 1B contains a complete listing of all of the tools that are required to complete this project. You should be familiar with most of the tools on this list. Below are some notes about some of the tools: 1. Spade drill bits (or wood boring) are used for drilling long or wide holes. If you do not have these, you should be able to find them at most hardware stores. 2. We have sent you a square drive bit for driving decking screws. Using this bit will prevent stripping out decking screw heads and should make installing the screws much easier. 3. There are some excellent plastic folding sawhorses out on the market now. These can be folded and stored after use, unlike wooden sawhorses. They sell for around $25. 4. Unless you have a cordless drill (highly recommended), you will need a long extension cord to reach the swingset site. TECHNIQUES Measuring The two main tools that you will be using here are your tape measure and your combination square. For most measurements, you will be using the tape measure to mark the correct distance along the length of the lumber and the combination square to mark the correct distance along the width. Let’s say that you need to mark the centerpoint of a hole that is 32” from the end of a board and 1-1/2” from the side. First, you would use the tape measure to mark off the 32” along the side of the board. Next, you would loosen the adjustment screw on the combination square and adjust the ruler to the 11/2”. Finally, you would retighten the adjustment screw, push the combination square against the side of the wood, and make your mark.. You can also use the combination square to mark perpendicular (90 degree) and 45 degree angle cut lines across a board. To mark a perpendicular cut line, push the square edge flush with the edge of the wood and use the ruler as a guide to draw a straight line on the wood. To mark a 45 degree cut line (you will need to do this for the corner braces later), push the angled side of the combination square flush against the wood and mark along the ruler.

Cross Cutting: Cross cutting refers to cutting a piece of lumber across its width to make it shorter. After you have used your tape measure and combination square to make a cutline, you are ready to start cutting with your circular saw. Sawhorses will be required for this operation. Adjust the spacing between sawhorses until the wood that you are cutting is stable. Make sure that you position yourself so that you are cutting on the “waste” side of the guideline -- ie the side that you are cutting off. This prevents you from cutting a board too short. Occasionally, you will need to crosscut boards that are too short to fit on the sawhorses (the step supports for this project are an example). The best way to accomplish this would be to place a longer board across the sawhorses and then clamp the short board to be cut on top of the longer board, with the end to be cut hanging off of the long board. This should allow you to make the cut safely. Circular saws are notorious for “kickback” and binding. This can be dangerous, so it is very important to hold the saw with both handgrips whenever possible. You should also try to position yourself outside the area of potential kickback. If the saw binds near the end of your cut, try the following: 1. Let the saw stop and back it out of the wood 2. Turn the board over and finish the cut from the other direction. Rip Cutting Rip cutting refers to cutting a piece of lumber down its length to make it narrower. Make your cutline by using your combination square to mark the required width in a couple of places along the length of the board. Then use a long ruler to draw a cutline through the marks. Some circular saws come with a rip guide that can be adjusted to required ripping width. It is difficult to rip boards using a sawhorse. Instead, try placing the board to be ripped on top of some 4x4s placed on the ground. Secure the board that is to be ripped to the 4x4s, and use the circular saw to cut along your guideline.

Drilling The two types of holes that you will be drilling are through-holes and countersunk holes. The first type of hole is relatively straightforward. You want to make sure that your drill is at a 90-degree angle to the wood so that your hole will be straight. This is especially important when drilling thru holes into the posts. To make this task easier, you may want to try drilling the hole ½ through the post on one side and then turning the post over and drilling the other ½ through from that side. In either case, make sure that you hold the drill straight up and down to ensure a straight hole. You can also try using a longer drill bit with a smaller diameter as a pilot hole. If you are having a hard time penetrating the wood, you should pull the drill bit out and clean the wood shavings off in order to maximize cutting effectiveness. You can also try to move the drill bit in and out of the hole as you drill. Countersunk holes are really two holes in one. The purpose of countersunk holes is to “bury” bolt ends inside the wood. You will be using the 1-1/8” spade bit to drill the countersink portion. You can either eyeball the countersink depth, or you can place a piece of tape on the drill bit at the required depth. This will serve as a visual cue for you to stop drilling at that point. Once you have drilled the countersink portion of the hole, the remaining thru portion is drilled exactly like the holes described above. Rounding Wood Corners Using A Router We would highly recommend rounding the edges of all of your posts and 2’ x boards (you do not really need to route the decking and wall boards, although it will make them look better). This makes the swingset look much more professional and also gets rid of sharp edges. You will use a router with a 3/8"-1/2" radius roundover bit to do this. Routing sprays a lot of wood chips, so you may want to consider wearing a long sleeve shirt. Routing is very straightforward and simply involves positioning the router so that it the guideface is level on the wood and then pushing the router with both hands along the wood edges. It is more important to round the sides of the wood than it is to round the ends. Framing/Squaring Framing, or squaring, is the process of making sure connecting boards are level and square. A large carpenter’s framing square is the tool of choice for this task. As long as you cut and drill everything exactly according to the

diagrams in these plans, squareness should not be an issue. However, you should check squareness periodically during the assembly process to doublecheck your drilling and cutting accuracy. Squareness can be checked by placing one edge of your framing square flat against the first piece of wood and then pressing the other edge of the square against the second piece of wood. If you cannot press the both edges flat against the two pieces of wood, then they are not square relative to each other. You will have to adjust the two pieces until there are no gaps between the framing square and the wood. Leveling You should use the string level to check levelness of your planned swingset site. Place the string level on the string using the hooks on top of the level. While holding the string taut between two points, you can determine if the points are level with each other. By adjusting one end of the string up or down and measuring the difference, you can determine the exact slope. If your fort site is unlevel, you can then add dirt or shovel away dirt. If your swingset A-frame site is unlevel, you can either add or shovel away dirt, or you may want to think about making one leg of the set longer than the other one.

CHAPTER 2. STEP-BY-STEP BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS A. Project Overview Once you have your site planned and your materials and tools laid out, you are ready to start building. From this point, you can expect to spend about 23-28 hours completing the project. For simplicity, the project has been broken down into the following phases: BUILD FORT (16-18 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router (optional) 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood and finish labeling 4. Assemble Fort BUILD CLUBHOUSE (5-7 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router (optional) 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood and finish labeling 4. Assemble Clubhouse BUILD SWINGFRAME (4-5 hours) 1. Round wood corners using router (optional) 2. Cut wood to size and label 3. Drill wood and finish labeling 4. Assemble Swing legs 5. Assemble Swing beam 6. Install Swing accessories

B. Build Fort STEP 1. ROUND WOOD CORNERS Rounding the wood edges will enhance the look of your swingset tremendously and will also eliminate sharp corners. You should go ahead and use your router to round all of the SIDES of the wood that you purchased. It is better to do this before you cut the wood to length because you will eliminate the changeover time of placing multiple short pieces of wood on the sawhorses instead of just routing one long piece. Do not route the ENDS until the wood is cut to length. STEP 2. CUT WOOD TO SIZE AND LABEL Remember the saying “measure twice and cut once.” Use Table 2A to cut the Fort wood to size. Note that the wood you purchase will not be exactly the length it is advertised. For instance, if you buy a 4x4x10’ post, it will most likely be slightly longer than 10’. Therefore, in order to make this into (2) 4x4x5’ posts, you cannot simply cut the 4x4x10’ post in half. It is very important to measure each piece after it is cut to make sure that it is the proper length. Labeling will help you remember which piece is which later when you start assembling the swingset. It is not absolutely necessary, but it is highly recommended. Label each piece with your marking pencil. Draw the label on one end of the piece so that it will not be in the way of drilling operations later. STEP 3. DRILL AND FINISH LABELING WOOD (DIAGRAMS 2-14) Note: As a consistent convention in these diagrams, it is assumed that you are FACING the front of the fort/swingset. When the plans refer to “Left”, and “Right”, they are referencing your left and right if you are facing the swingset. Another way to remember this convention is to think of the swing side of the fort as the Right Side, and the accessory beam side as the Left side.  Drill Fort Posts (Diagrams 2-9) These diagrams are probably the most critical in the whole project, so first take a few minutes to study them to make sure that you understand them. Also, take extra care in measuring and drilling in the following operations.

Diagram 1A illustrates the post numbering system. The first step is to label each face of each post with your pencil. The labeling corresponds with the appropriate side of the fort – ie the Front face of the post is on the Front of the fort, the Right face is on the Right side of the fort, and so on. It does not matter which side you choose to designate as the front side – just pick a face and put a small (F) near the bottom of the post. On that same (F) face, label the top (T) and the bottom (Bot). Next, while looking down at the front face and facing the top of the post, label the side on your left with a (L) and the side on your right with a (R). Finally, label the side opposite the front (F) side as (B) for back. Follow Diagrams 2-9 to measure and drill the holes in the fort posts.  Drill Supports (Diagrams 10-13) Label the faces as you did for the fort posts. Measure and drill holes as shown  Drill/Mark Ladder Sides (Diagram 14) First, drill the hole that will be used to bolt the ladder sides to the fort posts. Once this is done, mark the ladder sides with your pencil as shown. These marks will be used to position the step supports. Also, label the Top and Bottom of the sides.

STEP 4. ASSEMBLE FORT (Diagrams 15-22)  General Notes about Bolt Installation: 1. All nuts and washers that are included in the kit are the same size and will fit any bolt included in the kit. 2. All bolts are 3/8” diameter. They are designated by their shank length – ie the length from the head to the end of the bolt. Check the bolt reference list included in Table 1C and sort the bolts accordingly before beginning assembly. 3. Carriage Bolts - Carriage bolts do not have pointy ends. The threaded end of carriage bolts should be in the countersink portion of connecting piece. A flat washer, then a lock washer, and then a hex nut should be placed on the threaded end of the bolt. The nut should be tightened using your 9/16” socket wrench. 4. Lag Screws – Lag screws have pointy ends. Lag screws should be tightened with a lock washer and flat washer next to the head. The head will always be placed into the countersink in the wood. NOTE: In the assembly diagrams, a circle with an X in it represents a bolt head. This means the bolt is going into the plane of the paper. An open circle means the bolt is coming out of the plane of the paper.  Assemble Back Wall Structure (Diagram 15) Complete this assembly very near the site so that you do not have to drag it over when completed. It will be very heavy. Attach the Back Wall supports with 4” lag screws. Assemble the middle wall structure with 4” lag screws as well. If you are adding the turbo slide, attach (1) TSS2 to the back side (outside) of the 7’ deck post. This should fit between the upper and lower wall support to make a level surface. Attach one TSS1 and (1) wall piece to the inside of the wall supports. Attach (1) TSS2 to the outside of the TSS1. Again, it should create a level surface to attach the Turbo Slide.  Assemble Fort Floor and Side Wall Supports (Diagram 16, 17) This step will take two people. Hold the back wall structure upright. Attach the floor support, clubhouse floor supports, and wall supports for Fort Post #3. Attach the floor, clubhouse floor supports, and wall supports for #5, and then #2. The details of the connections for the middle posts are detailed in Diagram 17, which shows only the middle fort section of the forts. Attach supports/safety guards where shown.

 Assemble Fort Walls (Diagram 18) Attach wall boards where shown using 2-1/2” decking screws. If you are adding the turbo slide, attach (1) TSS2 to the side (outside) of the post #6. This should fit between the upper and lower wall support to make a level surface. Attach one TSS1 and (1) wall piece to the inside of the wall supports. Attach (1) TSS2 to the outside of the TSS1. Again, it should create a level surface to attach the Turbo Slide.  Assemble Fort Floors (Diagram 19) Attach the floor for the 7’, 6’, and 5’ decks using 2-1/2” decking screws.  Assemble Roof Boards and Tarp (Diagram 20) Place the roof boards on top of the fort posts. Note that the roof board on the side of the 7’ deck should be slightly offcenter to leave space for the tarp to fit in between it and the upper wall support. Attach the roof boards with 2-1/2” decking screws. Attach (2) tarp studs to the underside of one of the side roof boards. Use the tarp as a guide for placement. Screw the studs in and attach one tarp side. Stretch the tarp across the roof boards and mark the location of the remaining snaps. Install screw studs and finish attaching tarp.  Assemble Ladder Step Supports (Diagram 21) Align top of Step Supports with guidelines on Ladder Sides. While holding step support, predrill screwholes into step supports with 7/64” drill bit to avoid splitting wood. You do not need to predrill all the way into ladder sides. Tighten one decking screw so that it is started into the ladder side. Tighten the other decking screw all the way down, and then go back and finish tightening the first screw.  Assemble Ladder (Diagram 22) Lean Ladder Sides against Fort floor (Diagram 28) and line up the ends of the ladder sides with the inside faces of the fort posts. Place all of the Ladder Steps onto the Ladder Step Supports and push the Ladder Sides together as tightly as possible against the ladder steps. "Eyeball" decking screw position so that it hits the middle of the Ladder Step when tightened. There is no need to predrill these holes. Fasten all steps with 2 decking screws per step per side.

 Install Fort Accessories (Diagram 22) Position ladder so that the tops of the ladder sides do not extend beyond the inside faces of the fort posts. Using a pencil, mark position of holes on fort posts for lag screws. Remove ladder and use 1/4" drill bit to drill a 2-1/2" pilot hole for the lag screws. Replace ladder and fasten with 4" lag screws. Install the slide using small decking screws provided. C. Build Clubhouse  Assemble Additional Clubhouse Floor Supports (Diagram 23) Attach the additional clubhouse floor supports to the fort posts using 2-1/2” decking screws (2 per side).  Assemble Clubhouse Floors (Diagram 23B)  Assemble Clubhouse Walls (Diagram 24) Assemble the walls supports using the dimensions shown. The bottom wall supports should sit on top of the clubhouse floor. All wall supports should be attached to the posts using (2) 2-1/2” decking screws per side. D. Build SwingFrame STEP 1. ROUND WOOD CORNERS See instructions under Section B of this Chapter. STEP 2. CUT WOOD TO SIZE AND LABEL Use Table 2B to cut wood to correct size. Again, remember, measure twice and cut once. STEP 3. DRILL WOOD AND FINISH LABELING (Diagrams 25-29)  Drill Swing Beam (Diagram 25) Standard Swing Hangers: Measure and drill holes for standard swing hangers through Bottom face of Swing Beam. Upgraded Wood Beam Hangers: Use the dimensions to position the wood beam hangers on the swing beam. Mark hole locations and drill 1/4" pilot holes in the beam. Do not drill through holes as indicated. Measure and drill holes for beam attachment through Top Face of Swing Beam.

 Cut and Drill Swing Legs and Leg Braces (Diagram 26) Mark the holes and draw the angled cutlines as shown. Because the swing leg posts are thick, you will need to adjust your circular saw cutting depth and you may even have to cut the posts from both sides. Once you have made the cut, label the top and bottom of the post and drill holes as shown. Follow the same procedure for the Mid Leg Brace. Follow the same procedure for BOTH top braces. STEP 4. ASSEMBLE SWING LEGS (Diagram 27) You may need some assistance with this step and Step 5. Go ahead and bring the swinglegs and braces to the swingset site. Assemble the Mid Leg Brace first with 4” lag screws as shown in the diagram. Next, assemble the upper braces by positioning the braces over the holes in the swinglegs and pushing 6-1/2” carriage bolts through both braces and the swinglegs. Place the nut and washer for each carriage bolt on the Outside face. STEP 5. ASSEMBLE SWING BEAM (Diagram 28) NOTE: The swing beam is very heavy and hard to handle. You will need the help of at least one other person for this step. Follow the directions on Diagram 28. Note the holes in the fort post for mounting the swing beam are not predrilled. They will need to be marked and drilled. The triangle plate goes between the beam and the fort post. STEP 6. INSTALL SWING ACCESSORIES (Diagram 29) Push the 6" swing hangers through the underside of the swing beam (use a hammer if necessary). Place a washer and locknut on the other end and tighten. If installing wood beam hangers, use the note on the Diagram. If installing wood beam hangers, attach hangers to swing beam with 4-1/2" lag screws. Place the quick links on each swing. Slip the ends of the swingchains into the quicklinks. Adjust height if necessary.

CHAPTER 3. Maintaining Your Set A. Finishing Pressure treating wood does not protect it from moisture and the sun's UV rays. This means that you will need to apply a combination stain/water repellant that contains U.V. blockers to your swingset. You should apply the first coat a few weeks after you have completed the project and reapply every few years thereafter for optimum durability. The first step is to prepare the surface of your swingset by spraying it down with a hard stream of water from your garden hose to remove any debris and dirt. If you are very overdue on your finish job and the swingset if filthy, you should clean the surface with a deck cleaning solution. An oil or acrylic based semi-transparent stain with water repellant and U.V. blockers is your best choice for finishing your swingset. These stains are commonly sold as "deck and siding stains". You will need about one gallon and one quart to apply one coat to your swingset. Read the manufacturer's instructions to determine how to apply the stain and how often to reapply. We recommend that you use a 1-1/2 to 2" brush, as opposed to a roller or sprayer, to finish your set. If you have already installed your swingset accessories, remove them to prevent them from getting splattered with paint. It will probably take two people about 3-4 hours to apply one coat to the swingset. B. Maintenance You should inspect your swingset about twice monthly during the usage season. This should involve tightening nuts, inspecting ropes and chains, and looking for splinters. The wood on your swingset will probably shrink the most during the first month, so do not be surprised if the nuts are especially loose for the first inspection. In harsh cold climates, the swings and ropes should be taken inside when the temperature is below freezing for an extended period of time.

NOTES:

Diagram 28. ASSEMBLE SWING BEAM Front View of Fort Post #5

Triangle Plate is between swing beam and fort post

Offset View of Beam Attach to Swing Legs

Attach plate to back of swing beam with 2" lag screw Attach plate to post with 2" lag screw

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Raise Swing Leg Assembly Place Swing Beam on Leg Assembly Level Swing Beam and mark holes on fort post (approx 8' high) Drill 7/16" through holes in fort posts Position swing plate over holes and position swing beam over plate Insert 7" carriage bolts and secure with washers/nuts Lag screw Swing Legs to Beam using 4" lag screws (both sides)

4" Lag Screw (Two per side) Offset from center slightly to prevent overlap

Side View of Beam Attached to Swing Legs

Diagram 23B. ASSEMBLE CLUBHOUSE FLOORS End Boards 5/4 x 3-1/2" x 30-3/4" Qty = 5

5/4 x 6 x 6' Qty = 5

Attach Clubhouse Floor Boards with 2-1/2" decking screws

5/4 x 6 x 37-3/4" Qty = 5

Diagram 23. ASSEMBLE ADDITIONAL CLUBHOUSE FLOOR SUPPORTS

CFS2

CFS1

FCFS2

Install CFS1 and CFS2 with 2-1/2" decking screws Install FCFS1 and FCFS2 with 3/8" x 4" lag screws

FCFS1

CFS1

Diagram 24. ASSEMBLE CLUBHOUSE WALLS

RIGHT SIDE VIEW Fort Post #5

BACK VIEW FRONT SIDE VIEW (5' Fort) LEFT SIDE of 5' FORT IDENTICAL

Fort Post #7

Fort Post #2 Fort Post #8

Fort Post #2

Fort Post #6

Attach Clubhouse Wall Supports Using 2-1/2" decking Screws

CHWS2

CHWS2 CHWS1 24"

24"

Fort Post #1

Fort Post #8

CHWS1

Clubhouse Floor Boards Attach BACK Clubhouse Wall Boards (CW) to INSIDE of Wall Supports using (2) 2-1/2" decking screws / side Spacing = 1-3/4" between boards Qty = 4 per section Attach bottom of walls to clubhouse floor supports

Clubhouse Floor Boards

Diagram 17. ASSEMBLE FLOOR AND SIDE WALL SUPPORTS Left Side View of MIDDLE of Fort Side Details removed for clarity Fort Post #4

Fort Post #7

Attach all boards with 3/8x4" Lag Fort Post #1

LUWS5 (Attach to inside (right) of posts)

FS (7' Floor)

Attach 6' Deck Side Safety Guard with (2) 2-1/2" decking screws per side

FS (6' Floor)

FS (5' Floor) Attach FS to INSIDE of Posts

LCFS2

Diagram 16. ASSEMBLE FLOOR AND SIDE WALL SUPPORTS Left Side View Upper Wall Support Fort Post #6, Left Side

Right Side View Fort Post #5

(UWS7)

Fort Post #3

Fort Post #8 Upper Wall Support (UWS6)

Lower Wall Support (LWS7)

Fort Post #2 RUWS5

Lower Wall Support (LWS6)

Floor Support (FS) Attach to INSIDE of Posts

LWS5

RCFS

LCFS1

Attach All Boards with 4" Lag Screws where shown Predrill 1/4" diameter pilot holes in 4x4 fort posts for Floor Supports using holes in Floor Supports for guide

Floor Support (FS) Attach to INSIDE of Posts

Diagram 19. ASSEMBLE FORT FLOOR DECKING (Top View) End Decking Boards (5/4"x3-1/2"x30-1/4")

7' Deck Floor (5/4"x6"x34") Qty = 5 6' Deck Floor (5/4"x6"x37-1/4") Qty = 5

Use 2-1/2" Decking Screws for hole pattern shown

5' Deck Floor (5/4"x6"x37-1/4") Qty = 5

Diagram 18. ASSEMBLE FORT WALLS RIGHT SIDE VIEW

LEFT SIDE VIEW

BACK VIEW Attach TSS2 to Back Side of TSS1 Fort Post #3 Fort Post #6 Attach TSS1 to Inside of Wall Supports (2-1/2" decking screws) Attach TSS2 to Back Side of #6

Fort Post #5

Fort Post #7

22-1/2"

Attach TSS1 to Inside of Wall Supports

Fort Post #8

Fort Post #6 Fort Post #2

Attach BACK Wall Boards (W) to INSIDE of Wall Supports using (2) 2-1/2" decking screws / side Spacing = 1-3/4" between boards

Fort Post #8

Diagram 22. ASSEMBLE LADDER

Side View

Front View Steps

Step Supports

LLS

RLS

Two 2-1/2" Decking Screws per step (both sides) "Eyeball" screw position into Steps

Diagram 21. ASSEMBLE LADDER STEP SUPPORTS Screw Step Supports into LEFT Ladder Side INSIDE Face

2-1/2" Decking Screws (2 per support) Note: Predrill Holes into Step Supports to Prevent Splitting Use 7/64" drill bit for Predrill Hole

Top

Bottom

Screw Step Supports into RIGHT Ladder Side

Position Step Supports so that Top of Support Aligns with Mark Line

INSIDE Face

Top

Bottom Step Supports are made from cutting unused portion of ripped fort floor decking to 3-1/4" length Approximate size is 5/4"X2"X3-1/4"

Diagram 20. ASSEMBLE ROOF BOARDS and ROOF TARP BACK VIEW Roof Boards (2x4x37-3/4") Attach with (2) 2-1/2" decking screws per side

Tarp Dimensions are 94" x 26" TOP View LEFT Roof Board RIGHT Roof Board

Position snap holes using same dimensions on both sides Drill Holes on UNDERSIDE of Roof Boards

MID Roof Board Snaps for Roof Tarp (3 per side) On UNDERSIDE of roof boards Predrill w/ 5/64" bit Install w/ screwdriver

Use 2-1/2" Decking Screws to Fasten Roof Boards to Top of Posts (Front and Back) Position Right Roof Board slightly off-center so that tarp can fit through

A. Position snap holes in center of LEFT roof board B. Stretch tarp tight over roof boards and mark position of RIGHT roof board snap holes

Diagram 27. ASSEMBLE SWING LEGS Upper Swing Leg Supports (6-1/2" Carriage Bolt) Thru inner and outer brace and leg OUTSIDE Face Looking Toward Fort

Mid Swing Leg Brace (4" Lag Screws)

Diagram 15. ASSEMBLE FORT BACK WALL STRUCTURE BACK WALL STRUCTURE

Assemble with 4" Lag Screws All Hole Locations

MIDDLE WALL STRUCTURE Post #4

Post #7

FRONT Side View

BACK Side View Post #3

Post #8 Post #6 BUWS7

FUWS7

BLWS7

FLWS7

BUWS6

BLWS6

BCFS

4" Lag Screws

Diagram 26. CUT AND DRILL SWING LEGS AND BRACES FRONT and BACK Legs Identical Cuts Holes Drilled on RIGHT Face of Front Leg and LEFT Face of Back Leg 114"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

diameter = 7/16" depth = thru

2-7/8"

55-1/4"

8-1/2"

1-3/4"

Mid Leg Brace OUTER Face 1-1/8"

1-1/8"

Top

3-1/8"

1-1/2"

3-1/8"

Bottom

2-7/8"

64"

Inside Top Brace (No countersink -- only 7/16" thru hole) Top

3-1/8"

2-3/4" 3-1/2"

3-1/2" 16"

Bottom

bolt diameter = 7/16" depth = thru 2-3/4"

3-1/8"

Both Top and Mid Braces (Except where noted) All holes countersink diameter = 1-1/8" depth = 1/2"

Outside Top Brace Top

3-1/2"

3-1/2" 16"

Bottom

Top

Bottom 6-1/4"

Diagram 13C. DRILL FRONT CLUBHOUSE FLOOR SUPPORT -- FCFS2 (2"x6"x34-1/4"') 1-3/4"

Top

** All holes identical Countersink diameter = 1-1/8" depth = 1/2"

Bolt hole diameter = 7/16" depth = thru Bottom

Diagram 13D. DRILL RIGHT/LEFT CLUBHOUSE FLOOR SUPPORT -- RCFS, LCFS2 (2"x6"x6') Drill Right and Left 2 Clubhouse Floor Supports Identical 2 Pieces Identical

1-3/4"

4" 2"

1-3/4"

36"

Diagram 13E. DRILL BACK CLUBHOUSE FLOOR SUPPORT -- BCFS (2"x6"x6') 1-3/4"

1-3/4"

36"

Diagram 12. DRILL FLOOR SUPPORTS -- FS (2"x6"x37-3/4"') Drill 7' Floor Left and Right, 6' Floor Left and Right, 5' Floor Left and Right Drill all (6) Floor Supports with identical hole pattern shown 1-3/4" 1-3/4" Top 4"

** All holes identical Countersink diameter = 1-1/8" depth = 1/2"

Bolt hole diameter = 7/16" depth = thru

Bottom

1-3/4"

Diagram 12B. DRILL TUBE SLIDE SUPPORTS Drill TSS2 (2x4x26-1/2") Holes identical for each one 1-3/4" 1-3/4" Top

Bottom

Diagram 13A. DRILL FRONT CLUBHOUSE FLOOR SUPPORT --FCFS1 (2"x6"x37-3/4"') 1-3/4"

Top

1-3/4"

Bottom

Diagram 13B. DRILL LEFT CLUBHOUSE FLOOR SUPPORT -- LCFS1 (2"x6"x37-3/4"') Top

1-3/4"

Bottom

Diagram 14. DRILL AND MARK LADDER SIDES (2"x4"x6'-6") Drill LEFT and RIGHT Ladder Sides -- LLS and RLS INSIDE Face

1-3/4"

Bottom

Top

Countersink diameter = 1-1/8" Depth = 1/2" Bolt Hole diameter = 7/16" depth = thru

Mark LEFT Ladder Sides for Step Supports INSIDE Face 11-1/2"

13"

Top

Bottom 14"

13"

Mark RIGHT Ladder Sides for Step Supports

Draw guidelines with pencil. These lines will help to position step supports and steps.

INSIDE Face 13"

13"

14"

Top

Bottom 11-1/2"

13"

Diagram 10. DRILL LOWER WALL SUPPORTS Drill Lower LEFT and RIGHT Wall Supports -- LWS7 and LWS6, LWS5 (identical hole pattern) - 2"x6"x37-3/4" 3 Pieces Identical

Top

1-3/4"

** All holes identical Countersink diameter = 1-1/8" depth = 1/2"

1-3/4"

Bolt hole diameter = 7/16" depth = thru

Bottom

Drill Lower BACK Wall Supports -- BLWS6, BLWS7, FLWS7 identical hole pattern (2"x6"x37-3/4") 3 Pieces Identical 1-3/4"

Top

Bottom

Diagram 11. DRILL UPPER WALL SUPPORTS (2"x4"x37-3/4") Drill BUWS6, BUWS7, LUWS5, RUWS5, FUWS7 identical Top

5 Pieces Identical

1-3/4"

Bottom Drill UWS7, UWS6, FUWS5 identical 3 Pieces Identical 1-3/4" Top

1-3/4"

Bottom

Top End View of Post Front Face

Diagram 2. DRILL FORT POST #1 (4"x4"x87")

Left Face

Right Face Back Face

Drill FRONT Face 1"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Left Face

2-1/2"

Top

1-3/4"

Bottom

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Right Face

Drill LEFT Face 2"

Top

Bottom

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Drill RIGHT Face diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

31-3/4"

Top

Bottom

1" diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Top End View of Post Front Face

Diagram 3. DRILL FORT POST #2 (4"x4"x87")

Left Face

Right Face Back Face

Drill FRONT Face 1"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

2-1/2"

1-3/4"

Left Face

Top

Bottom

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Right Face

Drill LEFT Face diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

31-3/4"

Top

Bottom Drill RIGHT Face 2"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Top

Bottom

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

28-1/4"

Top End View of Post Front Face

Diagram 4. DRILL FORT POST - #3 (4"x4"x10')

Left Face

Right Face Back Face

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

1-3/4"

Drill FRONT Face 1"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Left Face

2-1/2"

Top

Bottom 2" Right Face

33"

Drill LEFT Face

34" 1"

Top

Bottom diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Bottom

Drill RIGHT Face

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Top

80-1/2"

Top End View of Post Front Face

Diagram 5. DRILL FORT POST #4 (4"x4"x12') All Holes (except where noted) diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Drill FRONT Face Left Face

Left Face

Right Face Back Face

57"

Top

Bottom

26-1/2" Right Face

Drill LEFT Face 2"

80-1/2"

Top

Bottom

2" 4"

Drill RIGHT Face 68-1/2"

diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2" Top

Bottom

53-1/4"

58"

Top End View of Post Front Face

Diagram 6. DRILL FORT POST #5 (4"x4"x10')

Left Face

Right Face Back Face

All Holes diameter = 1/4" depth = 2-1/2"

Drill FRONT Face Left Face

Top

Bottom Right Face

Drill LEFT Face 49-1/2"

Top

Bottom 2"

64-3/4"

46"

Drill RIGHT Face

34"

13"

Top

Bottom

61-1/4"