Summer 2013 by Brigham Young University Editing Students

Summer 2013

SUMMER 2013

Swedenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Midsommar Dream

Celebrate summer in Sweden, p. 28

Cultivate fresh ideas and help them take root.

peacecorps.gov

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

Live, learn, and work with a community overseas. Be a Volunteer.

Also in this issue

Heritage Lights: Cape Town, South Africa, p. 34 Bali Your Way: The Beach, the Past, and the Pose, p. 38 Fighting AIDS in Uganda, p. 44

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On the cover: Youth and flowers epitomize the Swedish Midsommar celebration. Photo by Ulf Bodin

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Bazinga! Get Your Geek on at Comic-Con

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Happenings: Fire in the Sky

“By Yon Bonnie Banks”: Two Sides of Loch Lomond

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Sweden’s Midsommar Dream

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Escapades: Manufacturing Happiness

The Music and Magic of Québec City

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Heritage Lights: Cape Town, South Africa

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Southward Flight: Sailing the Coconut Milk Run

Bali Your Way: The Beach, the Past, and the Pose

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Fighting AIDS in Uganda

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Staff Essay: Gelato Moments

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Parting Shot

4 ▶ summer 2013

Features

Editor’s Note: Wanderlust with Words

Getaways

Photo by Hilton Tee

Culture

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Stomp, Step, Slide! Clog America Takes the Worldwide Stage La Tomatina Festival: Don’t Eat Your Vegetables— Throw Them!

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Striking Gold: A Walk through Jacksonville, Oregon

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Bugs Bite—Is It Time to Bite Back?

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British Food: Kicking the Stereotype

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Zucchini: Four Corners of the Kitchen

Field Notes

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Back in Black: Caravan the Black Sea Ring Highway

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Life on the Rocks: Dr. Summer Rupper, Glaciologist

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Running with the Gods: The Easter Island Marathon

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Building HOPE in Peru

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Tales from the Trip Photo Contest Winners

Insider

Take a walk along the beach in Cape Town, South Africa.

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Lens Trends

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Phone Home: Using Your Cell Phone Abroad

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Getting Your Feet Wet: Tips for the Beginning Water Skier

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The World Health Organization: A Resource for World Travelers

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Stowaway in Your Pocket

You Ain’t Nothin’ but a Rock Hound

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 5

Bert Fuller

Katja Nelson

Leah Robinson

Amy Carlin

Suzanna Davis

Assistant Managing Editor

Copyeditor

Patrice Carey

Jessica Johnson

Senior Editor

Chelsey Saatkamp

Cassidee Feinauer

Courtney Feinauer

Senior Editor

Associate Editor

Kevin Haws

Ali Kirk

Kacey Schneider

Bryn Clegg

Associate Editor

Art Director

Victoria Candland

Miriam Shumway

Assistant Art Director

Managing Editor

Mickell Summerhays

Copyeditor

Madeleine Brown

Assistant Managing Editor

Web Team

Carmen Bailey

Ben Keeley

Serenity Kimball

Brooke Randell

Cami Wilson

Senior Designer

Marvin K. Gardner

Julie Ogborn

Dana Kendall

Eugene Tapahe

Editing Advisor

Design Advisor

Cameron Smithson

Editor in Chief

Design Advisor

Web Advisor

Social Media Team

Carmen Bailey Patrice Carey Cassidee Feinauer Courtney Feinauer Jessica Johnson Ali Kirk Chelsey Saatkamp Kacey Schneider Mickell Summerhays Cami Wilson* Advertising Team

Amy Carlin* Suzie Davis Kevin Haws

*team leader

6 ▶ summer 2012

Printed by Brigham Young University Press

Stowaway is produced as a project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, designing, and advertising. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and do not represent the views or opinions of BYU. Stowaway takes inspiration from the words of Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Photos by Rachel Haslam

Photo Credit: See style guide to review credit wording before writing this.

Ben Keeley Serenity Kimball* Brooke Randell

editor s note

Wanderlust

Inset photo by Miriam Shumway; background photo by Calsidyrose

Drinking fountains, civilian firearms, ethnic diversity—I remember every detail of that first day back in the United States after I had spent 18 months in Eastern Europe. It was the most patriotic day of my life. A month after my return I started school again, and a month after that I got engaged. Another year passed and I was itching to travel the world again. My new wife and I left our desert home for an island vacation in Oahu and then took a 6,000-mile road trip across this sweet land of liberty and back. But that still wasn’t enough. We needed to get abroad! We booked a flight to Moscow and stayed there for four months. And while we were there, we visited Scandinavia and the Baltics. Unfortunately, that sort of reckless abandonment isn’t sustainable for paupers like us. However, since we’ve been stuck at home I’ve learned about a new kind of travel. Even though I can’t spend six months out of every year learning foreign languages

with words

among the natives, I can at least hear about the vast travel experiences of the people around me and live vicariously through them. This has proved a satisfactory, albeit temporary, substitution. We at Stowaway realize that our readers long for travel. Naturally, we can’t visit Sweden or Estonia for you, but we can share the firsthand experiences of those who have been there. In fact, this is exactly what we strive for. We put about 4,000 volunteer hours into each issue of Stowaway, and we use this time to create a sense of transport for our readers. Since a magazine isn’t a plane ticket, we try to stir up wanderlust with our words and photos. I hope that as you thumb through this summer issue, you’ll feel an urge to find yourself at a station or a terminal you’ve never seen before. If that happens, every minute of those 4,000 hours will have been worth it. For this issue of Stowaway I am pleased to introduce you to two

new additions. First, we’re including playlists at the end of selected articles. Each of these playlists has a QR code that links you to our Spotify library. Second, we’re introducing a new department that highlights useful travel apps. This issue’s app article shows you how you can read Stowaway anywhere, anytime—with or without Wi-Fi. Besides our app article, there are a few other articles I’d turn your mind to in particular. One of our features explores Bali and suggests three ways to visit the same place— something to consider wherever you find yourself. Our “Off the Beaten Path” article describes an almost mythical marathon on the mysterious Easter Island. And in the “Eats” section you’ll discover the true meaning of entomophagy. But no matter where you start, you’ll find clean prose and sharp images. Welcome to summer 2013.

!"#$%&'(("# Bert Fuller Managing Editor

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 7

Fire in the

!"# Ever since the Chinese invented pyrotechnics some time before the seventh century, fireworks have been used to celebrate summer holidays and festivals all over the world. But fireworks sometimes scream and burst throughout the sky purely for the thrill of competition. —Madeleine Brown

Boston, Massachusetts

Boston Pops Fireworks Spectacular In 1974, Boston Pops Orchestra conductor Arthur Fiedler added church bells, howitzer cannons, and fireworks to Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture so that, as the composer said, “all hell could break loose.” The Boston Pops Fireworks Spectacular, held annually at the Charles River Esplanade, is the nation’s premier Independence Day celebration. At night, the concert begins with a flyover, while the band plays the national anthem. As the 1812 Overture is wrapping up, fireworks shoot up and fill the sky with color, ending the finale with a bang. ▶

www.july4th.org

Brasilia, Brazil

Dia da Independência Brazil celebrates its Independence Day on September 7, or “Sete de Setembro.” Along with speeches, military exhibitions, concerts, and libations, the country celebrates with parades in the morning and fireworks in the evening. The largest celebrations take place in Brasilia, but big cities like Rio know how to put on a great party as well. Brazilians line the streets with balloons, banners, and streamers as they fly their flags and sing songs. At night, the people crowd the streets and beaches to enjoy the impressive firework displays that celebrate the day Dom Pedro famously said, “By my blood, by my honor, and by God: I will make Brazil free!” ▶

8 ▶ summer 2013

www.thingstodo.viator.com

happenings

Scheveningen, Netherlands

Sceveningen Vuurwerkfestival In a little beach town near Den Haag, Netherlands, fireworks stream off of Van der Valk Pier every year in the third week of August (this year, it will take place August 15–17). Several countries vie for the Scheveningen Fireworks Trophy, the winner’s prize for the Vuurwerkfestival, or “firework festival.” This international festival is the highlight of the year for thousands of people in and around the Netherlands. Locals and tourists visit the Dutch coast to watch the noisy and colorful displays of fire in the sky—two shows every evening for three days. Other light shows set the sky ablaze during July and August. Spectators can get a good seat and enjoy a bite at the cafés along Scheveningen Boulevard during summer nights. ▶

Tarragona, Spain

Photo by Daniel Goncalves

Tarragona International Fireworks Displays Competition Silent astonishment on Miracle Beach often accompanies the impressive shows of six international pyrotechnic companies. The Tarragona firework competition, held the first week of July at Punta del Miracle, is perhaps the most impressive firework display in the Mediterranean area. A 16-member panel judges the fireworks—both aerial and aquatic— based on brightness and duration of colors, intensity, elegance, originality, and final crescendo. This year’s competition runs July 3–6. ▶

www.tarragonablog.com

Brno, Czech Republic

Ignis Brunensis Latin for “Fire of Brno,” Ignis Brunensis is an international firework competition presented on Brno Dam, where the fireworks reflect off the water. Around 200,000 people come to watch each 22-minute show over the course of two weeks in May and June. Noncompetitive firework displays are also launched from Brno’s city center for the opening and closing ceremonies. Pyrotechnic companies from Germany, Switzerland, Poland, and the Czech Republic compete this summer, May 24–June 16, sending fireworks streaking through the sky in sync with music on the local radio station. ▶

www.vuurwerkscheveningen.nl

Tondabayashi, Japan

Perfect Library Art of Fireworks in Tondabayashi Firework festivals are iconic in Japan, and August 1 marks one of the biggest firework festivals in the world: PL Art of Fireworks in Tondabayashi. The festival, a summer tradition in the Kansai region, has been held since 1953 as a religious event for the Church of Perfect Liberty. During the firework shows, around 20,000 shells are launched, including the gigantic Star Mine. But be careful: this spectacular finale’s rumblings sound like the end of the world is coming, and its streaking fires light up the entire neighborhood like it’s daytime. ▶

www.perfectliberty.ca

www.ignisbrunensis.cz

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 9

Don’t let classes stop you from studying abroad, going home, or taking that long overdue road trip with your friends. With BYU Independent Study, you get the freedom to travel while earning the credits you need to graduate. Who says you can’t be successful in school and still have fun? Sign up for courses at anytime, with up to a full year to complete them. Set your own deadlines and create your own schedule. You can even look at the syllabus before you enroll so you know exactly what you’ll be doing. Don't let a couple credits limit your freedom. Why not take a look?

10 ▶ summer 2013

Getaways As you walk the streets of Old Québec, you get striking glimpses of the towering Château Frontenac.

Away for a Weekend

Away for a Week

Away for a While

Embrace your inner geek at Comic-Con in San Diego, or escape to a beautiful lake in the heart of Scotland.

Experience Québec City through its Festival of Summer, or get to know Cincinnati through the boomtown’s history of baseball and emancipation.

Photo by Artur Staszewski

Dip down south for a cross-Pacific sailing voyage.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 11

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Stephanie Wilson of Portland, Oregon, was sitting on the curb at the Gaslamp Quarter—an area directly across from the San Diego Convention Center—waiting patiently to go grab dinner with some friends. Suddenly, a swarm of zombies emerged from around the corner. “At this point, it didn’t even matter that my friends were late because, well, zombies!” says Wilson. Zombies and other creatures in costumes are common at the San Diego Comic Convention. This international convention, known colloquially as Comic-Con, runs for four days each July. This year it will run July 18–21. What started 40 years ago as a gathering in the basement of a hotel has grown into an event that draws more than 150,000 people to the San Diego Convention Center each of the four days. Though created to showcase comic books and science fiction/ fantasy films and television, the convention has now grown to include video games, collectibles, anime, and other kinds of pop culture.

Enter the Convention

The Comic-Con event uses two levels of the large San Diego Convention Center. After purchasing a $150 badge—the price for a four-day pass— Comic-Con attendees are free to explore. The first level of the event is an open floor filled with booths. The space is so large that companies like AMC and Marvel buy up huge areas of the floor to create full-scale television and movie sets as their booths. One year, Marvel recreated Thor’s

12 ▶ summer 2013

Golden Throne; another time, AMC built one of the houses from its zombie series, The Walking Dead. The second floor of the event is used for forums, which anyone can attend if they are willing to wait in line several hours beforehand. These forums include panels of famous movie and television casts, such as the actors from Supernatural, Twilight, and The Big Bang Theory. To be involved with Comic-Con, studios, networks, and publishers send proposals explaining their potential event exhibits. Comic-Con then decides which exhibits would interest attendees most and would showcase diversity.

Explore Iconic Comic-Con

The beauty of Comic-Con is that it is different each time. “It varies every year,” says Barbara Staigerwald of Baltimore, Maryland, “but you’ll still find Robert Downey Jr., Stan Lee, and casts of shows like Dexter and Arrow, plus tons of amazing comic book-related artists.” Staigerwald is the editor-in-chief of www.whennerdsattack.com, a website that novice Comic-Con attendees can use for tips, news, hotel reviews, etc. “There are screenings, Q&A panels, costume contests, and more,” Staigerwald

says. “There really is something for everyone.” One of the most iconic aspects of this event is the tradition of wearing costumes. Every year, attendees dress up as a variety of famous characters from movies, television, or comic books. Joseph Slinker of Provo, Utah, says costumes are a major part of the novelty. “You always see tons of Storm Troopers and Princess Leias,” Slinker says. He first attended the event in 2009, coming mostly for the illustrators and artists. When he came back in 2010, Slinker’s group embraced this novelty and dressed up as Harry Potter characters. “We just robed up and got matching ties and badges,” says Slinker.

Pop in for Pop Culture

While costumes are a continual feature of Comic-Con, many other aspects change as Comic-Con assimilates more types of pop culture. For example, in 2011, Stephanie Wilson went specifically for the TV shows Doctor Who and Supernatural. Similarly, Staigerwald attended Comic-Con in 2010 because of the appearance of the TV show Dexter. Staigerwald believes this new wave of pop-culture fans has positive

getaways

effects. “There are some people out there that don’t like the influx of ‘new blood,’” says Staigerwald, “but why hate? That young girl who shows up because of The Big Bang Theory might end up finding a comic book to love.” Slinker agrees: “If you want to be a hipster about it, then be a hipster and find some unknown convention. But don’t complain about the one that is like the pinnacle of nerdom and pop culture. You can’t bag on that.”

Photos by Aly Lebow, Anna Fischer, San Diego Shooter, Ed Kwon, and Kevin Dooley

Geek Out to Fit In

Stephanie Wilson believes that regardless of why they come, everyone can enjoy Comic-Con. “There’s something for every geek,” she says. “There are comic books, movies, TV shows, even web-based content and books. Comic-Con is a place where we can all geek out together, even if we’re geeking out about different things.” Whether it’s spotting Robert Downey Jr. or witnessing a swarm of zombies, Comic-Con offers camaraderie for all kinds of fans. As the zombies passed by Wilson on the curb, she enjoyed the moment. “It didn’t even matter if they were there for comics or movies or whatever,” says Wilson. “We were all having fun together.” ▶

www.comic-con.org

—Courtney Feinauer

Clockwise from top right: He might not have his cart, but Mario and his moustache make their way around the convention. Robin waits for the Bat-Signal. Crowds of more than 150,000 people gather daily at the San Diego Convention Center for events and exhibits. This might be a good place to reach Kim Possible. Look out for Wolverine and other superheroes in costume.

Derezzed ̶The Glitch Mob Main Title from Star Wars Iron Man ̶Black Sabbath

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 13

Light shines through the beautiful greenery surrounding the banks of Loch Lomond. Strolls along the shore oďŹ&#x20AC;er quiet meditating time, while other activities around the lake can be more boisterous.

14 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

getaways

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Two Sides of Loch Lomond

Scotland can be a noisy place with its bagpipes and highland games, but this northern British country is also full of vast landscapes of calm and solitude. One destination in particular provides travelers with a Scottish experience that’s both peaceful and energetic.

Photo by Scott Morris

The Escape

Loch Lomond, the largest inland body of water in Great Britain, offers an escape from the busy cities on tourists’ hit lists. Loch Lomond—loch being the Scottish word for lake—is a picturesque gateway to the lessinhabited highland. Amanda Fronk, who visited the lake as a college undergraduate, says all her constant traveling to and from Scotland’s more bustling cities wore her out. But she says, “Loch Lomond allowed me to slow down and take in the beauty.” This beauty is also the reason Rick Duerden takes his study abroad students to enjoy the loch during the month of May. “The landscape there is beautiful in a kind of soothing way—that is, hillsides of bracken, and at that time of year, bluebells,” says Duerden. “What you’re seeing is ferns and this faint lavender-bluepurple hillside, so it’s just gorgeous.” Duerden says he takes the students to “see, talk, relax, and sort of spiritually let everything go for a while.” Only a 30-minute drive from Glasgow, the lake has many trails winding through dense green forest. One such trail leads to Rowardennan Hostel, located on the east shore of Loch Lomond. “It’s a beautiful location,” says Duerden, who hiked for a couple of hours with his students to reach it. The hostel is isolated enough that you can drive only a small car to it—and it sits only 15 feet from the

shore, an idyllic lodging for those seeking peace and relaxation.

The Adventure

Tranquility is only one side of Loch Lomond. “There really are two very different Loch Lomonds,” Duerden says. He explains that although the east side of the lake is peaceful and quiet, “the west side of Loch Lomond keeps up a constant hum of traffic because it’s the main artery from the highlands to the south.” The west side is where excitement-seeking travelers usually venture. There, activities, restaurants, and festivals are generally located near the harbors, an area that’s more populated and accessible. The lake is a hotspot for activities where the Scottish mountainside juts straight out of the water. Although the water’s temperature is quite chilly even in the summer, you can canoe, water-ski, sail, and fish. Jade Thomson, from Dundee, Scotland, says, “You have to jump off the pier—if you don’t mind the cold, that is.” She also recommends using a paddleboat to enjoy the surroundings. Being on the water isn’t the only way to actively interact with the lake. In the summer, Thomson plans to bike around its shoreline. One route takes cyclists along the west edge of the lake on a 15-mile path that passes through small villages, picnic areas, and national park information centers. You can also go shooting, golfing, or off-roading. After all this physical activity, you can eat at a restaurant or visit the food vendors. Scottish vendors sell fruits, homemade cheeses, and crafts. “Scottish people are very vibrant,” says Fronk, “so they’re interactive. They want to come up and get to

know you.” The lake also hosts many festivals, including the Lomond Folk Festival, which will be held July 26–28 this year. The festival features three days of live music and workshops that teach participants to whistle, hula hoop, or play the bodhran—a handheld Irish drum. Lodgings on the west side include the Cameron House, which is nothing short of a castle nestled in the woods next to a golf course. “If you’re up for splashing the cash, then Cameron House is the hotel to stay in,” says Thomson. “It’s a very traditional Scottish hotel right on the waterfront and is known to be the hotel of choice for the rich and famous visiting Scotland.”

The Mix

Travelers looking to experience both the peace and the activity offered at the lake should visit Ben Lomond, a hike that Duerden takes his students on every time he visits Loch Lomond. He says that trekking the seven-mile roundtrip hike is the perfect mix of both sides of Loch Lomond: the tranquility and the adventure. “It’s a cross between two very opposite things,” Duerden says. “One is the peace of just hiking away and finding yourself in a tangle of brush, with a few oak trees, and a stream. That’s sort of the leisurely peaceful moment.” The other side is the strenuous hiking up the peak and feeling quite tired. He says, “It’s that contrast of feelings that I really like—one’s peaceful, and one’s exhausting but exhilarating.” ▶

www.lochlomond-trossachs.org

—Carmen Bailey

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 15

Find yourself in the Alps

let your portfolio

take flight

Publish your travel photos and anecdotes in Stowaway magazine. Visit our website for contest details. See previous contest winners at 16 summer 2013 www.stowawaymag.com. â&#x2013;ś

Alpenwild.com

801.226.9026

Pick Your Continent

International Study Programs at the Kennedy Center serves students, faculty, and departments by facilitating the development and implementation of quality international academic experiences. Use the Program Finder (http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp) to choose the best fit for your academic and professional goals covering four types of programs for any major to department-specific opportunities. Study Abroad

Students attend classes taught by BYU faculty that are enriched by excursions to local sites and immersion in a new culture. Some programs offer general education courses while others offer major-specific courses. These are excellent for students who are traveling overseas for the first time and who want a structured program with plenty of interaction with BYU faculty and students.

Direct Enrollment

Students attend classes at an international institution of higher education. Classes are taught by local professors with the credit transferring back to BYU. Direct enrollment is ideal for students who are willing to accept the challenges of facing a new culture on their own or in small groups of other BYU students.

International Stud\ Programs Field Schools

Field Schools are designed to help students prepare for graduate school or a career in cross-cultural/international consulting or research. Small groups of students, or individuals, live within a communityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;immersed in the local culture, as they carry out their own research projects. This type of program requires independent, committed, and self-motivated students, who are willing to prepare themselves through a semester-long preparation course, and who are willing to live in local conditions as members of a culture and community. Students are academically guided by one or several faculty mentors.

International Internships

Individual students or small groups work with international companies, government organizations, or development agencies. International internships are intended to provide a practical application of classroom learning. On-the-job experience is enhanced by regular feedback from a BYU faculty mentor. These internships are geared toward students who are independent, self-motivated, and willing to face the challenges of a new culture on their own. 101 HRCB | (801) 422-3686 | isp@byu.edu | kennedy.byu.edu/isp

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 17

The Music and Magic of

Québec City glitters along the banks of the St. Lawrence River.

Where can you go for a musical experience that spans everything from rock 'n' roll to jazz, electronica, pop, blues, heavy metal, and more? Québec City’s Festival D’été (the Festival of Summer). This music extravaganza draws international crowds for 11 days every July; this year it runs July 4–14. During the festival, an impressive assemblage of musical venues dots the town, and Québec City is transformed into the largest outdoor music festival in Canada.

n its own, Québec City is an enticing destination. The natural charm of the city—with its historic features and culinary flair—makes it a prime destination. Add in the eventof-the-year music festival in July, and the city becomes a sensation. “For visiting Québec City,” says native Gabriel Soucy, “July is the best time of the year.” Visitors who come during the festival can experience both the music and the magic of Québec for a multifaceted adventure.

The Music

The Festival D’été has grown exponentially since its conception in 1968. What began as a celebration of Canadian artists has expanded to encompass styles of music from around the globe. In 2012, close to a thousand artists performed in shows scattered throughout the city. A festive ambiance permeates the

18 ▶ summer 2013

town as guests mingle and visit the various indoor and outdoor venues. The festival offers tickets for specific performances, day passes, and festival passes that span the entire 11 days. Last time Soucy attended the festival, he purchased the 11-day pass for a mere $65. “It’s kind of like a passport that lets you go anywhere you want,” he shares. “It’s definitely worth it.” Festival-goers are free to wander throughout the city, catching their favorite artists and exploring new musical tastes. Massive crowds gather to see the big-name performers—artists like Aerosmith, LMFAO, Sarah McLachlan, Our Lady Peace, Bon Jovi, The Offspring, and Skrillex, all of whom headlined in 2012. This year’s lineup will include Bruno Mars, Ellie Goulding, Belle & Sebastian, and Lisa LeBlanc, to name a few. “They do really good shows with fireworks and special effects,” says

Soucy. “And at smaller venues you can find new artists you didn’t know about. That happened to me the first time I went.” Soucy attended a performance by rock band The Heavy and enjoyed the unexpected warm-up act by a DJ artist called Kid Koala. “He did a kind of jazz with turn tables,” Soucy remembers. The festival offers a powerpunch of musical excitement. And if festival-goers want to stray from the music scene for a few hours, the rest of the city is just waiting to be explored.

The Charm

The festival takes place in and around Old Québec. Built 400 years ago, this city is one of the oldest settlements in North America. Entering Old Québec feels like stepping out of Canada and into a slice of old France. “The European architecture is rich here,”

getaways

Soucy says. “It’s mostly from France, which is really cool.” The area is one of the oldest European settlements on the continent. Steeped in historical significance, Québec City was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO because of its unique historical value. Old Québec is the only walled city north of Mexico. It is surrounded by the original 40-foot-tall stone wall that France erected centuries ago to protect this outpost. The city exudes charm. Wide cobblestone streets wind between buildings crafted from sixteenthand seventeenth-century stone. Specialized shops line the Rue SaintJean, a central plaza in the heart of Old Québec. Towering over it all, the Château Frontenac sits on a ridge overlooking the St. Lawrence River. This spectacular Victorian-style castle is now refurbished as a lavish hotel.

made with fresh-cut fries smothered in thick gravy and dotted with cheese curds. Poutine is such an entrenched part of the culture here that it is even served at the local McDonald’s. “Lots of people know about poutine,” Soucy says, “but not a lot of people know that Chez Ashton, the restaurant that made poutine famous, is found only in Québec City. They have the best poutine.”

behemoth cascades for a distance equivalent to 20 stories. Visitors can admire the view on foot, by boat, or via the cable car that stretches across the falls. Visiting Québec City during the Festival D’été is like living a chooseyour-own-adventure experience. The city is a great destination spot on its own, but throw in the Festival D’été and you’re guaranteed a fantastic

Left: photo by Yves Tessier; right: photo by John Marino

The Cuisine

With its French heritage comes a tradition of fabulous food. So Old Québec is the place to go for Frenchstyle pastries and fine dining. The bistro Chez Boulay creates mouthwatering dishes using only ingredients that are found above the 49th parallel (the circle of latitude that runs roughly along Canada’s southern border). Menu items include flavors like bison, local cheeses, salmon, and wild berries. Minutes away, the Érico ChocoMusée offers a museum’s insight into the history of chocolate. Here guests can learn how chocolate has evolved over the years and can watch artisan chefs make chocolate right before their eyes. Admission is free, but visitors may want to spend money in the museum bakery. Varieties of fresh gourmet chocolate line the walls. In the summer, the bakery offers 69 flavors of homemade ice cream. Old Québec is also famous for a true Québecois classic: poutine (pronounced pu-TEEN). This rich dish is

Music lovers ﬂood the streets of Québec City during the Festival D été to see hundreds of performances over a span of 11 days.

The Beauty

Outside the city, the beauty of the countryside unfolds. Stretches of forest reach northward, and the St. Lawrence River shimmers to the east. Ferries cart visitors across the St. Lawrence to the town of Lévis (pronounced luh-vees). “It’s a 15-minute ride,” Soucy says, “and on the other side, you can get a great look at Québec City.” Back on the mainland, Montmorency Falls is an impressive stop. This 272-foot waterfall

trip—everything from countryside and castles to cuisine and concerts. The variety and excitement of the festival and the host city work hand in hand to offer a splendor that can appeal to the palate of any traveler. ▶ ▶

www.infofestival.com www.quebecregion.com/en

—Suzanna Davis

Moon River ̶Kid Koala Cerveau ramolli ̶Lisa LeBlanc Just the Way You Are ̶Bruno Mars

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 19

''''''!"#$"##%&" Home Run Destination

The first boomtown in America’s heartland was none other than Cincinnati, Ohio. Although it was quickly surpassed in size by the urban sprawl of Chicago, Cincinnati remains a gateway to some of America’s most fascinating historical monuments and cultural landmarks.

America s Crossroads

As the crossroads of America’s struggle against slavery, the Ohio River may be one of our greatest symbols of freedom. Historically, the Ohio River bordered the Mason-Dixon Line from pre–Civil War America and served as a major hub of activity for the Underground Railroad. The banks of

this river offered refuge to thousands seeking hope and a new way of life. Established in 2004, the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center highlights the struggles once endured by slaves and presents the world’s first permanent exhibition on the subjects of modern-day slavery and human trafficking. The exhibit also brings to life the important struggles for freedom around the world and throughout history. However, the Ohio River served as more than just a symbol of freedom in the early days of Cincinnati. The river was also the main source of trade and the reason the city became industrialized so quickly after its settlement in 1788. Even today, the

Ohio River remains the central focus of the greater Cincinnati area. “My favorite thing about Cincinnati has to do with anything on or near the river,” Antus says. “You can get a beautiful view of it from just about anywhere.” For a fun day trip, cross over the river by riding in the BB Riverboats or by walking across the suspended Rumbling Bridge to arrive at Newport on the Levee—the Kentucky riverfront area of the city. In Newport on the Levee, you’ll find Newport Aquarium, complete with a daily penguin parade, and a wide variety of shops, theaters, and restaurants all along the beautiful Ohio riverfront.

Riverboats oﬀer one of many ways to enjoy the Ohio River, a historical crossroads in American history.

20 ▶ summer 2013

Photo by Cincinnati USA Regional Tourism Network

“Cincinnati is a wonderful place to visit because it has such a vast history and covers an entire region, not just a downtown area,” says Linda Antus, president of Cincinnati USA Regional Tourism Network. “A lot of what’s helped shape America started right here.”

getaways

Cultural Center

Photo by Cincinnati Reds

In addition to the Ohio River, Cincinnati is also known for the architecture in its historical neighborhoods. One of these is Over-theRhine, the largest urban historic district in the United States. Overthe-Rhine also boasts one the world’s largest collections of Italianate architecture. Attractions such as the Music Hall, the Cincinnatian Hotel, and the Shillito Department Store claim this architectural style, which is characterized by wide, ornamental roofs and elaborate entryways. As a student at the University of Cincinnati, Gabrielle Walter enjoys visiting the Cincinnati Zoo and Botanical Garden. This zoo is often referred to as “America’s Sexiest Zoo” because of its unique breeding program and because several baby animals are born there each year. The summer months are the best time to see the zoo’s vast array of flora and fauna. “It’s the first place I always take my friends who come visit,” Walter says. “It’s one of the oldest and most famous zoos in the country, and it has great programs during the summertime.” Another main attraction is the Cincinnati Museum Center at Union Terminal. Originally built in 1933, the building is a national historic landmark and was renovated and reopened as The Museum Center in 1990. The Museum Center hosts a wide variety of museums that cater to all kinds of interests. A few of the museums are the Cincinnati History Museum, Duke Energy Children’s Museum, the Museum of Natural History and Science, and the Cincinnati Historical Society Library. An OMNIMAX wrap-around theater shows science documentaries.

!"#$"##%&"'!(")" I didn t know there was another kind of chili until very recently, says Gabrielle Walter. I always thought the Cincinnati version was the only kind of chili there was. A sauce usually used over spaghetti or hot dogs, Cincinnati-style chili contains a unique spice blend that gives it a very distinct taste. Created by Greek immigrant Nicholas Lambrinides in 1949, the recipe is a well-kept family secret among Lambrinides surviving children. However, many people believe that the unique taste of Cincinnati chili comes from chocolate and cinnamon, spices popular in Greek meat dishes. The ﬁrst and most famous restaurant chain to serve this unique style of chili is Lambrinides Skyline Chili, although many competitors have popped up over the years. Skyline s menu includes their signature dishes: cheese coneys (a hot dog topped with Skyline Chili, mustard, onions, and cheese), 3-ways (spaghetti topped with Skyline Chili and cheese); 4-ways (choice of beans or onions added), and 5-ways (beans and onions both added). No matter which way you choose, be sure to eat the chili with oyster crackers on the side.

in 1869 and originally known as the Cincinnati Red Stockings, the Cincinnati Reds is the oldest major league baseball team in the country. No visit to Cincinnati is complete without a trip to the Great American Ball Park, a stadium that grants patrons another breathtaking view of the Ohio River. Right next door to the Great American Ball Park is the Cincinnati Reds Hall of Fame and Museum. This place offers baseball fans a

comprehensive look into the sport and into the team’s heralded past. Adjacent to the ballpark is the brandnew Riverfront Park, a 45-acre park located along the riverfront that includes an outdoor event stage, promenade, bike center, labyrinth, and interactive fountains—this setting is guaranteed to give your day at the ballpark a whole new feel. ▶

www.cincinnatiusa.com

—Chelsey Saatkamp

America s Pastime

There’s no sport more American than baseball, and Cincinnati has perhaps the most hard-core baseball fans you’ll ever meet. Established

Enjoy a beautiful view of the Ohio River from the Great American Ball Park̶home of the Cincinnati Reds, the ﬁrst major league baseball team.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 21

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Southward Flight

Photo by Tropenmann

Sailing the Coconut Milk Run

Not many people have plucked passion fruit from trees in the South Paciﬁc after sailing for weeks on end to get there, and fewer still have caught and cooked mackerel straight from the ocean. Because, after all, who has the time, funds, or freedom to sail from North America to Oceania? In fact, thousands of people do it every year. www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 23 Mast and boom and jib and batten̶spread your sails and disappear.

What is the Coconut Milk Run?

Nobody knows exactly who named it the Coconut Milk Run, but we do know that it refers to the smooth sailing most seafarers can expect from its gentle currents and mild weather. And while it may be easy for the saltiest salts—those sailors used to passing through pirate blockades or seeking the white whale—for most people, it’s a challenge of proper proportions. The Coconut Milk Run marks out the world’s most popular Pacific seaway. Countless islands dot the Pacific, leaving sufficient leeway for each crew to customize its own trip. Most people start in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, and stop along the way at the Galápagos, the Marquesas, the Tuamotu Archipelago, the Cook Islands, Fiji, and Vanuatu. Some end up in Australia, others in New Zealand. The voyage can take months, though the fastest sailors do it in just a few weeks.

Who sails to Oceania?

Experts and novices alike sail along the Coconut Milk Run. Joseph and Marci Paravia finished the run in just 24 days. But they’re exceptional. They’ve lived on their 38-foot Hans Christian sailboat, the Horizon, for the last 11 years. The Paravias’ boat, like most boats equipped for deep-sea voyages, has comforts like a bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen. “After several months of preparation,” says Marci, “we were ready to set sail to the South Pacific. We were eager to participate in the legendary Coconut Milk Run: days of soft downwind sailing in gentle breezes over azure water and starry tropical nights.” But not only experts make the voyage. Many Coconut Milk runners are landlubbers like you and me—normal people of all ages, who

24 ▶ summer 2013

join up with experts like Joseph and Marci for the trip.

How do I join a crew? Unless you own a blue-water boat, the first step is to join a crew by getting in touch with the sailing community. Websites like www. cruisersforum.com and www.latitude38.com help people orchestrate voyages. Depending on the website, you can either contact an owner or a captain directly—or you can post your qualifications and an owner or a captain will contact you. For the Coconut Milk Run, your best bet is www.pacificpuddlejump. com. The Pacific Puddle Jump (PPJ) makes the Coconut Milk Run its annual hotspot since it follows the most trafficked Pacific sea route. Every year, PPJ organizes a veritable flotilla that leaves Puerto Vallarta around March 1 and lands in French Polynesia around June 30. This year, nearly one hundred owners and captains went to the Seattle Boat Show in January to meet with fellow PPJ sailors and potential crew members. Next year, there will be a similar preseason rendezvous, so check out this enclave if you’re interested in crossing the Pacific with a crew of expert PPJ sailors.

Wondering why they’d want a novice on their crew? Simple: sailing is a lot of work for one person. Some can do it alone, but nobody wants to. You’ll help out with night watches, cooking, cleaning, rigging, and so on. For doing all this work, sometimes you don’t even have to split the cost of food and fuel! Think of that—living for three or four months with no bills. It’s hard work, sure, but it’s secure, serene living.

What should I keep in mind?

If you’ve managed to join a crew, you’re pretty much set. Just remember to sharpen those knot-tying skills and get your paperwork in order. Bring your passport, medical information, and some extra cash. You’ll need enough for a flight home, and you’ll want to have a few hundred dollars on hand for emergencies. Your captain can placate any remaining concerns and offer advice about how to prepare. You shouldn’t have to bring any specific gear since the captain will take care of that. If there are other crew members, you might want to try to get to know them before you go. They’re probably not beginners and could offer some predeparture tips.

I always wonder why birds choose to stay in the same place when they can ﬂy anywhere on the earth. Then I ask myself the same question. ̶Harun Yahya

getaways

Has anything ever gone wrong?

Sometimes sailing isn’t all sun and surf. Horror stories abound. When spouses go together, sometimes one gives up and goes home early. But the most common problems crop up when people don’t prepare properly. Just make sure you square everything away before you go—food, fuel, money, safety, communication, jobs, belongings, rent, pets, and so on. And make certain you’re the type of person who can keep a good attitude. Negativity spoils trips faster than weather conditions ever do.

Is the investment worth the rewards?

Photo by Steﬀen Sauder

“One of the best parts about sailing,” says Austin Secrist, an amateur sailor from Apple Valley, California, “is that the learning curve isn’t very steep.”

Austin and his wife, Steph, are planning a Pacific puddle jump. “We don’t know when we’ll go,” says Steph, “but the sooner the better.” Austin and Steph reassure would-be sailors that though it takes years to master the gales and the mists, 70% of what one needs to know comes within the first few hours. Sailing is a way of life. The distractions of the modern world melt away, and you can meditate and ruminate. That novel, that poem, or that play you’ve wanted to finish comes together at last. You can finally learn the guitar, and then, when you stop in New Guinea, you

can accompany the birds-of-paradise. You can remove yourself from the relationships that still ache, and you can handwrite a few heartfelt letters to those you love. Deadlines and schedules can fall away. With most modern travel, hours and minutes dictate destinations and departures. But with sailing, you can spend an unscheduled week under the shade trees of Tonga. You can speed up or slow down. It doesn’t matter. The ocean is yours.

—Bert Fuller

Yo Ho, Yo Ho! ̶Disney Chorus Orinoco Flow ̶Enya Night Fever ̶Bee Gees

After you ve spent a few long weeks on the open ocean, land is a sight for sore eyes.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 25

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Features Photo by David Stanley

Lotus ďŹ&#x201A;owers, symbols of elegance and beauty, bloom in Bali every summer, brightening ponds throughout the countryside.

Sweden s Midsommar Dream

Heritage Lights: Cape Town, South Africa

Bali Your Way: The Beach, the Past, and the Pose

Fighting AIDS in Uganda

Celebrate the summer solstice in Sweden and discover what a real Midsommar nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dream is all about.

Walk the coast beneath Green Point Lighthouse, the oldest lighthouse in South Africa.

Catch a glimpse of three different ways to vacation in Bali.

Join the fight for life in the developing nation of Uganda.

!"#$#%&'()*$' 28 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

+,,-.(/.#-, By Serenity Kimball

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 29

When most Americans hear about Sweden, they think of Swedish fish, the Muppet chef, and IKEA—but the response from those who have actually been to Sweden is much different. he “word that came to my mind was pristine,” says Leslie Barnts of her first trip to Sweden. “I will never forget it because it was absolutely, hands down, the cleanest of all the countries I saw, and I think I saw 23 European countries that summer. Whether in the city or out in the little villages, it was like being on the earth 300 years ago. . . . Absolutely breathtaking!” Quinn Rogers Schulze shares a similar impression of her Swedish vacation: “While driving through the countryside, I was most reminded of Montana. I thought Sweden would be a lot more populated, but it wasn’t at all. It was nature pure, with scattered red-painted homes built out of wood.” It is this pristine nature that Swedes celebrate at

30 ▶ summer 2013

Midsummer—called Midsommar in Swedish—the holiday second only to Christmas in importance. Midsommar falls on the day of the summer solstice, the longest day of the year, but Swedes now celebrate on the Friday between June 19 and June 24. (This summer, the main festivities take place June 21.) This celebration of the summer solstice has its roots in ancient pagan fertility rites: communities gathered to celebrate the end of a difficult winter, to anticipate a plentiful harvest, and to worship the return of the sun. Now it is mostly about fun and togetherness and enjoying the long daylight hours outside. However, many of the ancient traditions continue, tied inseparably to the Swedish landscape.

Swedes still worship the sun, according to Kristina Olergård Tenney, a native of Stockholm, who recently moved to the United States. She mimics the upturned face and closed eyes often seen as Swedes bask in the first rays of bright sun after a long dark winter. While the sun never rises much above the horizon in the winter, around Midsommar the sun is out even at midnight. Nancy Belliston, who grew up in Dalarna, Sweden, remembers celebrating Midsommar at her grandparents’ 400-year-old

Pages 28‒29, clockwise from top left: photos by Quinn Schulze, Carolina Romare, Ulf Huett-Nilsson, Synöve Borlaug Dufva, Susanne Hulten, Carolina Romare; this page: photo by Lena Granefelt

This page and page 32: stawberry cake photo by Jakob Fridholm; other photos by Carolina Romare

Above: Tiny, tender new potatoes with sour cream and chives are a favorite at the Midsommar picnic. Opposite page: Abundant wildﬂowers and greenery are appropriate Midsommar accessories for people of any age.

farmhouse. The children could stay up as late as they wanted to, so they would make tunnels in the hay and sleep in the barn. She loved waiting up with her cousins to watch the sun set, only to see it rise again a few minutes later. It was magical.

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On Midsommar, this magic endows all of nature with its power, or so the ancient Swedes thought. Herbs gathered on Midsommar’s Eve were considered more potent than those gathered at other times, and the many wildflowers were thought to be magical, too. Because of this, flowers and greenery still have prominent roles in Swedish Midsommar celebrations. During the morning of Midsommar, people of all ages gather birch branches and wildflowers like bluets, marguerite daisies, and poppies to decorate the maypole and to weave into garlands for their heads. Because of the brief summer, the flowers in Sweden all come into bloom at once, and because of generous laws, anyone is free to pick

flowers from nearly anywhere. Young women pick flowers in the evening on their way home from the festivities. The folk tradition is that if a young woman jumps over seven fences while gathering seven different wildflowers in silence and puts them under her pillow, she will dream of her future love. Belliston and Tenney both have fond memories of performing this ritual every year and talking with their friends the next day about their dreams—or not, if they happened to dream about the wrong boy. This prominent role of flowers is one reason Swedes abandon the cities en masse and head to the Stockholm archipelago or to other rural areas to celebrate Midsommar.

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Swedes go to the country not only for flowers but also for tasty food, such as Swedish strawberries and new potatoes (the tiny, newly harvested, nearly skinless potatoes). Tenney explains that because of the different varieties grown and the cool northern growing conditions, Swedish strawberries are sweeter than most; she says she has never really had a good

Top: Whipped cream, Swedish strawberries, and delicate vanilla cake̶nothing says summer like the classic Midsommar torte. Bottom: A classic Nordic dish, pickled herring (or sill) comes in many varieties.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 31

!2- %'#%3(4'(!"#$*'5(4'(67(8#7' Should you be lucky enough to ﬁnd yourself in Sweden for Midsommar, you have several options for enjoying yourself. The best scenario is to befriend Swedes who will include you in their celebrations so you can experience the holiday like a native. If that is not an option, you should look into the festivities at Skansen, a 75-acre outdoor historical museum in Stockholm. The wildly popular Midsommar celebrations have taken place in Skansen since 1892 and last for three days (to accommodate tourists) instead of the usual Friday-only celebration. In addition to the traditional maypole dances and games, there is a handicraft market where you can purchase Swedish crafts. ▶

http://www.skansen.se/en

strawberry in the States. The strawberries are often served with whipped cream as part of a classic cake, the Midsommar Torte. The rest of the traditional Midsommar luncheon consists of pickled herring called sill, and new potatoes served with sour cream and dill. Don’t be deceived by the humble sound of this menu. The taste is phenomenal, as any Swede

or experienced foreigner will attest. When Tenney was a teenager, one of her American friends came to visit for Midsommar. In the middle of the night, her mother found this friend at the fridge eating the new potatoes cold. Eaten outside under the summer sun with good company, the food tastes even better.

Singing and dancing around the maypole have been the highlight of Sweden s summer solstice celebration for centuries.

32 ▶ summer 2013

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After lunch, revelers wrap the maypole with birch branches and tuck flowers in among the leaves. Once the maypole is ready, musicians playing traditional instruments, like the accordion and fiddle, and folk dancers in traditional dress lead the procession to erect the pole. Once the pole is set up properly, the dancing begins. Trained dancers perform first, followed by group dances that everyone participates in. Many of these songs and dances are boy-meets-girl courting songs, but one particularly well-known song, "Små grodorna," is quite silly. The first line of the song, “små

grodorna är lustiga att se,” means “little frogs are funny to watch.” Any observer will certainly find it funny to watch old and young alike hop around like frogs while singing and making frog noises. (Swedish frogs don’t say “ribbet” but “kou ack ack kaa.”) After the folk dances are completed, families and friends continue to visit and play lawn games for many hours. Belliston remembers going for a swim and catching fish in the streams as a child. Other children play soccer. As the evening wears on, teens flirt and get to know each other. It was during one of these late Midsommar evenings as a teen that Belliston enacted another folk tradition: if a young woman closes her eyes while walking around a well

seven times, the first person she sees when she opens her eyes will be her future husband. Belliston remembers doing this only to be furious when she opened her eyes and saw the school bully. He saw her walking around the well and intentionally placed himself so he would be seen first. She walked off in a huff, and he teased her unceasingly about it for weeks afterward. Ironically, she did end up dating him for a while the following year. Dancing for teens and adults goes late into the evening, with the traditional music and folk dances replaced by pop music and modern dances. The drinking songs begin in

the evening—often silly and sometimes raucous. Traditional drinks like schnapps, aquavit, and vodka are drunk from traditional shot glasses called nubbes. Celebrants head home in the early hours of the morning full of food, dance, drink, and fond memories. Visitors lucky enough to experience this celebration of nature firsthand will have fond memories of their own. And next time they hear of Sweden, they too will think of more than red gummy fish and flat-pack furniture. ▶

www.visitsweden.com

Dancing Queen ̶ABBA Wildﬂower ̶The JaneDear Girls Show Me Love ̶Robyn

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 33

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Green Point Lighthouse has guarded Cape Town, South Africa, since 1824.

n estimated three thousand ships have met their doom off the unforgiving South African Coast—that’s one destroyed craft and crew for every kilometer of coastline.

34 ▶ summer 2013

Beginning in the early fifteenth century, around the time when Vasco de Gama and Columbus were sailing toward the New World, the seas of South Africa began swallowing European sailors whole. Generations of fearful crewmen nicknamed the area the Cape of Storms. “The sea currents in South Africa are really weird,” says Charné Van Jaarsveld, 22-year-old South African resident. The Agulhas Current brings water from the Indian Ocean, and the Benguela Current brings water from the Atlantic Ocean. Where they meet, visitors can see the blue and green waters create a stunning line. “It’s one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen,” says Van Jaarsveld. But the currents proved dangerous for the early East India Trading Company; crewmen were stranded, and South Africa was established soon after. While shipwrecks fueled South Africa’s creation, settlers didn’t want the disasters to continue. In 1656, Jan van Riebeeck ordered a signal fire to be lit on Robben Island, a simple navigational aid that warned sailors approaching the Cape Colony settlement. Coal fires replaced these early wood fires, and in the nineteenth century, South Africa’s oldest lighthouse was built at Cape Town.

Photo by JP Grobbelaar

4$1%!.")52)5% 625.-7 In August 1824, Green Point Lighthouse appeared on Mouille Point. Designed and built by German architect Herman Schutte, the building conforms to a square, blocky style. The tower, standing 52 feet in the air, is covered in iconic red and white candy stripes. In its early years, the signal light emanated from a simple oil lantern—not particularly reliable on misty Cape evenings. “The lights were rather primitive,” says Joe Viljoen, lighthouse enthusiast. They were just “single wicks in an Argand lamp

that burnt sperm oil.” This early light could be seen only six miles out to sea. In 1929, the primitive oil was replaced by electricity, and now it can be seen approximately 25 miles out to sea. Despite improvements to the lights, thick winter fog often obscures its protective gleam, so Green Point acquired a foghorn in 1926—a foghorn that can be heard for miles, earning the nickname “Moaning Millie.” Residents and insomniacs have complained about the foghorn since its installation, and some even compiled a letter of complaint addressed to the mayor of Cape Town. As recently as the 1970s, the keeper has received death threats. However, some find the sound soothing. “Some misty nights, when there are ships coming into the harbor, there is a sort of Do-Re-Mi of multiple foghorns going on. One can hear Millie calling the ships and the ships answering her,” writes resident Greenie Fletch. But whatever residents feel about the foghorn, its sound is a distinctive part of Cape Town sound.

=-.$1%625.-7 Green Point Lighthouse is the oldest lighthouse in South Africa̶but other lights have fascinating histories as well.

Robben Island Lighthouse By the time the lighthouse was built in 1865, Robben Island was home to the living dead ̶the sick, the mad, the criminal, and the politically inconvenient. The island bears the infamy of having imprisoned Nelson Mandela for eighteen years.

Cape Agulhas Lighthouse During the ﬁfteenth century, Portuguese compasses would behave erratically near Cape Agulhas, leading Bartholomew Dias to name the area the Cape of Needles and the Agulhas bank the Graveyard of Ships.

4$1%+"82)5% 625.-7% Because lighthouse keepers take great efforts to warn ships, Green Point lighthouse has presided over only a few watery graves. In 1865, the RMS Athensis was driven broadside into the rocks just west of Mouille Point. Green Point residents looked on as foul weather made rescue impossible. Visitors to the lighthouse can still see the ship’s engine block peeking above the water. More recently, in July of 1966, the South African Seafarer also fell prey to stormy waters. While the ship sank, Green Point’s rotating lens was stopped, and the beam provided light for the rescue teams. Because of Green Point’s efforts, all crew members survived.

Danger Point The lighthouse warning of this rocky point was 43 years too late for the HMS Birkenhead (1852), an infamous maritime disaster. Only 193 of the 643 passengers survived, and the crewmembers actions created the British women and children ﬁrst protocol.

4$1%912$):;<% 625.-7 Nostalgia seeps out of Green Point. Visitors can walk up the original wooden ladder leading to the catwalk or read through the

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 35

nineteenth-century register. The walls are decorated, as Viljoen says, with “the numerous lighthouse paintings done by a previous keeper, Richard Wyness.” Richard’s son, Robert, is now the keeper, the last in a succession of more than 25 keepers; most lighthouse keepers who served throughout Africa were taught their trade beneath Green Point’s light. G. A. Dalton, former chief electrical engineer of Lighthouse Services, says, “Succeeding generations of light keepers have carried the

36 ▶ summer 2013

torch of tradition associated with light keeping services so successfully that they can rightfully be very proud.” Visitors can sense this pride as they walk through the original wooden door or look at the plaque proclaiming Green Point the original head office of Lighthouse Services—the unit charged with providing, operating, and maintaining navigational aids along South Africa’s coastline. The lighthouse’s aura of nostalgia is infectious. Viljoen’s interest in

lighthouses began when he arrived early for a business meeting in Port Edward: “I saw a sign to a small coffee shop at a lighthouse. I ordered coffee and noticed that if I paid a small fee I could climb to the top.” The next day he visited the “the much shorter” Port Shepstone lighthouse, and his “interest escalated.” Viljoen made it his “mission” to visit every lighthouse in South Africa. He has currently visited 44 of the 45 working lighthouses, and he maintains a valuable blog with

Photo by Dietmar Temps

The South African coastline has seen more than 3,000 shipwrecks.

recent photos and information on nearly every lighthouse. “There is a lighthouse or lighthouse picture in every room of my home,” he says. Few people belong to this lighthouse community, however. Simon Baillie-Cooper, director of the Lighthouse Company, is concerned that the general public isn’t as aware of lighthouses as it should be. “I can only hope that we can find more followers of these fine sentries of yesteryear,” he says. And yesteryear is

disappearing all too fast—new navigational advances, such as GPS, alert captains to the presence of rocks long before the flashing light reaches their eyes. However, Baillie-Cooper firmly believes that these buildings will always hold “a strange fascination for

those who wish to explore them.” He hopes that visitors will feel the same, becoming fellow souls entranced by that beam of light propelling its way across a dangerous coastline and a lonely history.

Candle on the Water ̶Helen Reddy Lighthouse ̶The Waifs Lighthouse ̶The Hush Sound

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 37

!"#$%&'()%*"+

the Beach, the Past, and the Pose By Miriam Shumway

Imagine yourself actually doing yoga in a rice ďŹ eld of Bali.

38 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

Photo by Jill Gocher

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 39

Bali is a place of many wonders, ranging from ancient temples and nature

reserves to world-renowned yoga centers and warm beaches. With so much diversity in this Indonesian province of nearly four million people, tourists may get overwhelmed when choosing which exotic spot to visit next. Bali is located in the eastern part of the Indian Ocean. It lies south of the Philippines and is about half the size of Hawaii’s largest island. A tourist can easily access everything from the coast to the mountains because of the island’s small size. The best way to visit Bali depends on the traveler. Most sites in Bali fall into one of three categories for vacationers: the peace seeker, the history buff, and the adventurer.

THE PEACE SEEKER

40 ▶ summer 2013

The Yoga Barn in Ubud, Bali, oﬀers classes for beginning, intermediate, and advanced yogis.

poses and mats. Practicing yoga can also help individuals look inward and work on themselves. After people become comfortable with themselves, they can go on and contribute to making the world a better place. The Yoga Barn offers classes every day of the week. Guests are encouraged to completely immerse themselves in the classes. If students need help getting into the element, they can simply look out at the rice

fields and mountains around them. “Many people who come to Bali come here to decompress,” Patton says. “The whole premise behind yoga is to get to know yourself better. For us here, having a healthy and wealthy lifestyle is about giving back to the community and taking care of the temples that are your bodies.” ▶

www.theyogabarn.com

Photo by Matthew Oldﬁeld

On the southern coast of Bali lies Kuta Beach, which houses resorts and pristine shores with board walks and spas right on the beach. Plan to stay and watch an incredible sunset. Charlotte Chen, a public relations account coordinator from Singapore, has visited Bali several times. She says Kuta is one of her favorite beaches and recommends spending time on the beach one day of the trip. “Bali has pretty beaches where the water is warm and the waves are big,” Chen says. “The boardwalk has fun shopping where you can practice your bargaining.” After a relaxing day at the beach, take a taxi (the best mode of transportation) an hour north of Udub. The town is home to the highly rated studio, The Yoga Barn—a local studio surrounded by beautiful greenery that teaches yoga classes geared toward a range of students, from the greenest of beginners to the ultimate yogi. Charley Patton, cofounder of The Yoga Barn, says yoga is more than

THE HISTORY BUFF

Photo by Matthew Winterburn

The number of temples on the island definitely cannot be counted on one hand—or even ten hands. History lovers will be astounded by the number of ancient and modern Hindu temples at the site known as Mother Temple. Located in the town of Besakih on the east side of the island, this site lies at the foot of Mount Agung, a dormant volcano. The Mother Temple is a large complex of over 80 temples that date back to the ninth century. Local families still visit

the site to bring offerings for their ancestors. “Bali is the land of the temples. Every day you smell the incense from the offerings,” says Nancy Zorn, from Captain Cook, Hawaii, who traveled to Bali for three weeks in 2012. “They have a very religious culture. It’s a huge part of their lives.” ▶

www.tripadvisor.com/ Attraction_Review-g294226d506291-Reviews-The_Mother_ Temple_of_Besakih-Bali.html

Zorn also spent time at the Puri Saren Palace, also known as the Ubud Palace, which is an old royal home dating back to 1768 that housed the kings of Ubud. Now tourists can sleep

in the palace-turned-hotel. The city is also a major gathering place for local craftsmen. Sellers bring woodcarvings, weaved fabric, and silver statues to display in Ubud. ▶

www.balistarisland.com/BaliInteresting-Place/Puri-Saren.htm

Across the street from the palace sits Ibu Oka, the famous Bali restaurant known for its babiguling—a traditional dish of suckling pig grilled with coconut shells. This restaurant serves cheap but delicious food for tourists desiring to connect with the culture through a Balinese meal. For dinner and a show, the Devdan Show is the place to be. Located in Nusa Dua, on the

Numerous temples and statues in Bali date back thousands of years and are treasured ﬁnds for history buﬀs.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 41

southern tip of Bali, the Devdan Show is a live show that will entertain people of any age. The show covers the history of Bali, along with other Indonesian cultures such as Java, Sumatra, and Papua. Audience members can watch history come to life through elaborate costumes, acrobatic dancers, and displays of fire and rain on stage. Another major plus for the show is the air-conditioned theater. “The audience will experience cross-cultural encounters in a highly entertaining way,” says Agnes Herdiasti of the Devdan Show. “Devdan Show opens the door for them to see into cultural diversity in the Indonesian archipelago.”

▶

www.balibreezetours.com

Hop off your bike and grab hold of a rope to experience the incredible canyoneering sites that dot the island. On the southern side, voyagers head to Kalimudah Canyon to discover new pools or to Anahata Canyon to rappel through waterfalls. ▶

www.adventureandspirit.com

www.devdanshow.com

THE ADVENTURER Enjoying cheap prices and good food along the way, Kelley Beanmen says the highlight of her trip was a bike tour. She and her new husband traveled from Chicago to Bali for an exotic honeymoon. “People go [to Bali] for the beaches, but I don’t think as many people realize there’s this whole other side of the island,” she says. After an hour bus ride, the Bali Breeze Tours Company dropped

Splash into the water: Bali is also known for spectacular scuba diving on the east coast. The island is surrounded by a coral reef and the crystal-clear water will only deepen your desire to dive in. ▶

www.baliscuba.com

Bali has it all, and a tourist can experience all Bali has to offer. In the rice fields, visitors can bike through or clear their minds with a yoga pose. Families or single travelers can enjoy massages on the beach and a lively show in the evening. With so many options, a traveler must get away for a while to enjoy this island destination.

All of My Days ̶Alexi Murdoch The Lucky Ones ̶Brenden James Bali Ha i ̶South Paciﬁc

42 ▶ summer 2013

Photo by Matthew Winterburn

▶

off Beanmen and her husband with their bikes. The group commenced a 20-mile ride through the scenes of Bali that most tourists never see, like small villages and rice fields. “It felt so uncommercialized,” Beanmen says. “It was like we were visiting friends who were taking us around their neighborhood.”

A waterfall and footbridge in the Gitgit area of northern Bali oﬀer breathtaking views.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 43

The prevalence of AIDS in Africa aﬀects the lives of people of all ages.

44 ▶ summer 2013

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8*$1'$ By Leah Robinson

On a sunny day nearly 10 years ago, Barbara Lawson of San Francisco wandered through a residential neighborhood in Kampala, Uganda, with a local colleague. As they walked, she noticed that most of the people she saw were either elderly or children. When she mentioned it to her companion, she was told that “basically a generation had been wiped out by AIDS” and that now the area is “a neighborhood of grandparents and their grandchildren. The 30- and 40-year-olds are gone.”

Photo by Espen Faugstad

7KH $,'6 (SLGHPLF In the early 2000s, more than 530,000 Ugandans were diagnosed with HIV or AIDS, and millions more throughout the African continent were infected. Men, women, and children were fighting a desperate battle to protect their

loved ones from the infectious plague surrounding them. The AIDS epidemic “was a crisis that couldn’t be ignored,” says Lawson. “Every sector of society needed to pay attention and do something about it.” Pangaea Global AIDS Foundation seemed to agree with Lawson’s call to

action. Pangaea teamed up with Pfizer Inc., the world’s largest research-based pharmaceutical company, to plan and construct a health clinic based at Makerere University in Kampala. In 2001, Lawson was hired at the start of the project as the senior program director for the Infectious Diseases Institute.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 45

3XVKLQJ IRU &KDQJH The concept for the clinic was first introduced when local Ugandan doctors met with doctors from North America to find a solution for the escalating epidemic in Uganda. Then, with funding from Pfizer and with administrative and innovative experts from Pangaea, Lawson and her coworkers were able to put the project into action. Even before construction on the clinic began, Lawson and other workers implemented programs to improve health care in Africa. North American doctors flew in to help train local doctors, who simply needed to be taught how to treat HIV, AIDS, and other infectious diseases. The newly trained physicians then returned to their own cities and communities to share their acquired knowledge with others. Dr. Nelson Sewankambo of Uganda was one of the key players in implementing this program. “Our hope,” he says of the project, “is that the people we have trained will themselves become trainers. If we can train a hundred, then they will train thousands, and that will help. If we can give them the skills and resources needed, they will start clinics throughout Africa providing quality care.” The monumental effort by the Ugandan people was beginning to pay off. In 2001, the Infectious Diseases Institute began a five-year project to construct the clinic. The personnel that were hired to build and manage the clinic were Ugandan, including the doctors and administrative staff who now run the clinic. “I can’t say enough great things about them,” Lawson says. Although the institute helped Ugandans fight their growing mortality rates, the patients weren’t the only ones whose lives were changed by the project. “I can’t think of a single person who came away unchanged,” says

46 ▶ summer 2013

Chuck Wilson, speaking of his fellow project coordinators.

$GDSWLQJ WR 8JDQGDQ &XOWXUH While thinking of the poverty and epidemics sweeping third-world countries like Uganda, it may be easy for some in wealthier nations to view the people living there as helpless and to approach service efforts with the idea of being saviors to the less fortunate. However, this “hero” mindset is often harmful instead of helpful. And while the Ugandans needed help from other countries, they were far from helpless. “Of all of the inputs that went into this project,” Wilson says, “the only ones in which the North Americans came with a sense of dominance were finance and probably technology. But that was only 30% of the equation; 70% of the equation was Ugandan contribution. This was much more of a partnership than many originally conceived it to be.” The Ugandans needed help, but they were active participants in their own rescue mission. Wilson also points out that people trying to help on the project either adapted to the gentler, slower way of life in Uganda or found themselves unable to contribute. One example of this need to adapt was the use of technology for the Infectious Diseases Institute. Wanting the clinic to be a cutting edge facility, some members of the team from New York decided to make a presentation for the Ugandans to explain how to use technology in the clinic, with the goal of a paperless clinical system. They wanted doctors to use handheld

devices to keep track of diagnoses and treatments of patients. This information would be communicated wirelessly to a main database. Unfortunately, the plan wouldn’t work for the Ugandans. “Ugandans are unfailingly polite,” explained Wilson. They graciously agreed to see the presentation, despite their skepticism. When the MIT team welcomed the group and pushed the button on the computer to begin the PowerPoint presentation, something happened that was completely unusual for the New Yorkers but was not unusual at all for the Ugandans: a daily massive power surge sent a bolt of energy down the electrical wires. The laptop began emitting smoke and the lens on the slide projector shattered, effectively ending the presentation. “Everybody burst out laughing,” says Wilson, “because it was just such a great, concrete way of saying, ‘bad idea!’” The Westerners realized that the simpler way of life in Uganda called for a simpler system.

0RYLQJ )RUZDUG Uganda continues to fight the AIDS epidemic in the trenches. When the Infectious Diseases Institute was completed, Makerere University bought it from Pangaea. Today it stands as a locally owned and operated clinic that gives hope to thousands of Africans who suffer from AIDS, both in Uganda and out. The tireless efforts to better the lives of their citizens continue on. “They are people of deep faith who have survived things we could never get through,” Lawson says. With continued help from people worldwide, Uganda continues to thrive and fight for its own health and happiness.

Waka Waka (This Time for Africa) ̶Shakira Baba Yetu ̶Viva Vox African Drum Jam ̶Adjoa Skinner

BeadforLife: Continuing the Fight

The Infectious Diseases Institute is not

northern Uganda to Kampala in an eﬀort

the only example of Ugandans tireless

to protect themselves from the Lord s

ment, BeadforLife creates sustainable

eﬀorts strivings of Ugandans to create a

Resistance Army, a militant group that

opportunities for women to lift their fami-

better life for their children. BeadforLife is kidnaps youth to use as child soldiers. By

lies out of extreme poverty by connecting

an organization that helps impoverished

working in the rock quarries together,

people worldwide in a circle of exchange

women struggling to support their chil-

the family made less than a dollar a

that enriches everyone. Although these

dren. It was founded in September 2004

day̶just enough for a single meal. So

women have been both literally and ﬁgu-

by Torkin Wakeﬁeld, Ginny Jordan, and

Akina was making and selling the paper

ratively beaten and bruised, they rally to

Devin Hibbard.

jewelry to try to eke out more income.

protect their families and create a better

While walking through the streets

Photo by Charles Steinberg

According to their mission state-

The three Americans began to sell

life for their children.

of Uganda, the trio came across a

paper jewelry in the United States to bring

woman, beaten and poor, who was sit-

attention to the plight of Ugandan women an inspiration. They may have diﬀerent

ting in the sweltering sun, rolling paper

like Akina and to help support them. The

into beads for necklaces. Intrigued, they

organization now assists women in making but they are hardworking, hopeful, and

stopped to speak with her and learned

and selling necklaces all across the world

good. As Lawson says, No matter where

that her name was Millie Grace Akina.

and has helped to build schools, homes,

you go, mothers are mothers. Parents

Akina and her children had ﬂed from

and clinics for their families.

want a better life for their children.

The people of Uganda are truly struggles than people of other nations,

The eﬀorts of many are creating brighter futures for Ugandan children.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 47

INTERNATIONAL DAYS 2013 Southwest Salt Lake Valley COUNTRIES INVITED FOR 2013

Martinique, South Africa,Taiwan, Turkey, Uzbekistan, USA August 13

OPENING SPECTACULAR Bingham High School 7:00 pm

August 14

COUNTRY SPOTLIGHT SHOW St. Andrews Catholic School 7:00 pm

August 15

COUNTRY SPOTLIGHT SHOW Sandra Lloyd Performing Arts Center 7:00 pm

August 16

FOLKLORE FUN FOR KIDS South Jordan Library 11:00 am Riverton Library 1:00 pm Herriman Library 2:30 pm FOLKORE FUN FOR SENIORS Riverton Senior Citizens Center 10:30 am South Jordan Community Center 1:30 pm FOLKLORE FUN WITH MUSIC Daybreak’s SoDa Row 7:00 pm

August 17

COLORS OF THE WORLD FESTIVAL FINALE Rosecrest Pavilion 2:00-9:00 pm

All Events48 are Free! summer 2013 ▶

For more information and hosting opportunities go to www.internationaldaysutah.com

Culture

Every year, revelers throw 100 tons of tomatoes at each other in the streets of a small Spanish village.

Arts

Life

Eats

Follow Clog America as the group performs across the world.

Jump into a giant tomato fight at the La Tomatina Festival and explore Spanish culture, or travel back to the 1850s and walk the gold rush streets of Jacksonville, Oregon.

Photo by Viajar24h

Find out why bugs are creeping onto menus everywhere, or consider changing your mind about what the English eat, or check out four recipes for summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best vegetable.

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 49

!"#$%&'!"(%&'!)*+(,

Clog America Takes the Worldwide Stage Among the old, castle-like buildings of Zamość, Poland, the cloggers of the Clog America dance team buck, toe trick step, double double, and slide across the giant stage in the middle of the town square. The dancers and live musicians perspire in the summer heat as they perform to “Five Foot Two, Eyes of Blue” by Art Landry. They are in Poland to strengthen their music and dance skills, to represent the United States, and to bond with other dancers from around the globe—all through American clogging. What exactly is American clogging? It is a footwork dance style akin to tap but with more upward movement of the legs. It has a unique sound because of its looser taps on the bottom

of the shoes. Clogging originated as a social dance in the Appalachian Mountains as early as the eighteenth century and has since become modernized and popularized. Traditional clogging, the style practiced by Clog America, is performed to American Western music such as “(Ghost) Riders in the Sky” by Johnny Cash. Although clogging is cherished by communities throughout the United States, clogging is not known to most people outside US borders. Clog America is made up of youngadult dancers and musicians who are dedicated to their craft and who want to connect with people throughout the world through music and dance. The organization’s mission is to bring clogging to other countries and to celebrate the heritage of American folklore and folkdance.

-#./+*/0'1)#0'2$(3*45

Emily Park clogs at the Eurofolk Festival in , ,

Zamosc, Poland.

50 ▶ summer 2013

Shawnda Bishop, founder of Clog America, loves clogging and wants to share it with the world. She had a dance studio in West Valley, Utah, but she wanted to expand her outreach. Bishop says that Clog America allows “the youth to develop a hunger and desire for travel and to have the experiences that show we’re all the same.” In 1990, Bishop asked Bonnie Romney to be her business partner, and Clog America was born. Since its founding, the organization has danced in the 2002 World Cup

Soccer Games for its Celebration Art Festival in South Korea, participated in Russia’s 60th celebration festival of the ending of World War II, and seen the world through many other adventures.

6*7*"*/0'"8('19(48' :(%.;)*4'5/+'<#)5/+ In the summer of 2012, Clog America toured the Czech Republic and Poland, performing in weeklong festivals and staying with host families or in university dorms. They first went to Brno, Czech Republic, where they held a dance social with J Ánošíek Folklore Ensemble. The Clog America and J Ánošíek musicians played songs while the dancers performed for each other. At the end of the dance social, the two groups came together for a big disco that “lasted for about four hours,” says Bishop. Clog America then went to Lublin, Poland, where it joined in a weeklong festival filled with parades, attentive crowds, and a performance in the middle of the town square. Next, they traveled to Zamość, Poland, which is Poland’s world heritage site. There they proudly held up the American flag and were invited by one gracious Polish family to eat a three-course meal at their home. The group enjoyed a wonderful night with this family, eating on fine china and witnessing the hospitality of the Polish community.

Photos by Brian Alama

culture

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Not only does Clog America participate in festivals, but it also does humanitarian work. In Lublin, they went to a regional children’s hospital, where they performed in the courtyard and gave stuffed animals to the children. “We wanted to make sure every child got something,” Bishop says. Clog America also visited a summer camp for people with special needs in Zamość. One of the Clog America musicians raised almost $400 to donate to the camp through a project called Pennies for Poland. All the kids in her high school put pennies in a jar for a week. Bishop smiles about this story and says, “We try to give back to the countries that we go to.”

For Kaitlyn Gourley, a member of Clog America who performed in the summer 2012 tour, the best part of dancing in these festivals is growing close to the people. “This summer we got to meet teams and people from more than 20 different countries,” says Gourley. “All of a sudden, the world seemed so small.” Gourley adds, “I was amazed at how similar we all were. We all experience emotions the same way—happiness, sadness, joy, pride—and I was amazed at how close we all became in such a short amount of time.” Clog America isn’t just about clogging. To Bishop, Gourley, and each of the dancers and musicians, it’s about promoting unity. Bishop says, “This organization is so important because we need [American] representation in the world besides movies,

media, and politics. We are doing a little something to promote peace.”

—Victoria Candland

Want to see Clog America perform? Why not make it a vacation? Clog America is going to Haiti for their Summer 2013 tour to the country s ﬁrst international folkdance festival. See the group clog the night away, explore the tropical sites of Haiti, and even engage in humanitarian work in the orphanages Clog America members will be visiting. ▶

www.wwapa.org

Dancers and musicians of Clog America represent the United States at the Royal Castle in Lublin, Poland.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 51

La T matina Festival Don’t eat your vegetables—throw them!

You can experience this chaotic, good time for yourself at La Tomatina Festival. In the tiny village of Buñol, Spain, on the last Wednesday of each August, about 40,000 people gather to throw one hundred tons of tomatoes at each other. The festival is the world’s biggest food fight. It has only one unspoken rule: smash the tomatoes in your hands as you throw them in every direction. The people of Spain know how to throw a party. The giant food fight is part of a weeklong festival that attracts people from all over the world. The tickets sell out each year long before August. Even though this festival is wildly popular, no one really knows how or why it originally began. Rumor has it that the festival first began in 1945, when several rowdy

52 ▶ summer 2013

boys began fighting during a parade and started throwing tomatoes at each other. Some believe the boys might have begun throwing tomatoes as a protest against local officials. Either way, the police quickly stopped that first fight and arrested the boys, but the boys planned a similar fight on the same day the very next year. The food fight soon became tradition and grew into a large festival. “La Tomatina Festival is still relatively very young compared to the rest of Spanish history,” says Joaquinna Hoskisson, a native of Spain. Spain is famous for its culturally significant and religious festivals, but this particular festival is just for fun. La Tomatina Festival was banned for many years by the Spanish dictator Francisco Franco for its lack of

religious significance. After his death in 1975, the festival was started up again, and it continues to draw more and more visitors each year. On the actual day of the food fight, city officials and cleanup teams secure the streets of Buñol with plastic tarps and safety netting. Hoards of people commute in from their hotels in Valencia and crowd into the narrow streets of Buñol wearing white T-shirts and white shorts. “The spectacle draws people in,” says James Davis, a tourism specialist. “There are various types of tourism, and with the growing accessibility to media, it doesn’t take a lot to make an event popular.” Before the tomato trucks roll in, several participants compete to climb to the top of a greased pole to reach the ham tied on top. The crowd surges as throngs of men climb over one another to try to reach the ham first. Giant fire hoses soak the streets with water as soon as the ham is reached, and the massive food fight begins. People dive into the trucks full of tomatoes, and revelers begin to squish and throw the rotten and overripe fruit everywhere. Tomato pulp floods the streets, and participants swim through rivers of red as they

Photo by Davide Restivo

You know that stinging sensation you feel every time water flushes up your nose? Imagine a complete stranger smashing handfuls of overripe tomato pulp in your face, while people swarm around you—jumping, throwing, and diving through waves of tomatoes.

culture

Left: Revelers eagerly participate in the world s largest tomato ﬁght. Right: People from all around the world join in the tomatoey chaos.

Photos by Viajar24h

Tomato pulp ﬂoods the streets, and participants swim through rivers of red as they toss smashed tomatoes at each other. Ik Junoon (Paint it Red) ̶Dance Dance Dance El Amor, El Amor ̶Zumba Fitness Suavamente ̶Elvis Crespo

toss smashed tomatoes at each other. People get wildly drunk and have a crazy good time. The food fight lasts for hours. When it is finally all over, the tomato juice is washed from the street with fire hoses, and the streets are clean again. Even though you might put yourself at the risk of having overripe tomato juice burn down the back of your throat, it might be worth it to experience the chaotic fun of this unique Spanish festival. ▶

www.latomatinatours.com

—Cami Wilson

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 53

54 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

!"#$%$&'()*+,

A Walk through Jacksonville, Oregon

Photo by Pam FalcioniTips

urn your pocket watch back 160 years, and Jacksonville, Oregon, explodes with activity. Gold fever has lured more than 2,000 settlers to the mines, and residents spend those gold nuggets in Jacksonville’s saloons, gambling halls, and shops. A few precious flakes even make their way into the Beekman Bank. Today, the street is no longer crowded with men in overalls and women in hoopskirts. But when you glance down the main street, you still see the same buildings that were there 160 years ago. “The town has a quiet ambiance about it,” says Larry Smith, director of the Jacksonville Woodlands Association.

Jacksonville grew for 30 years before the railroad came in 1884, drawing the town’s population away to settle in the valley floor. For decades, the town’s fascinating buildings, character, and past remained uncultivated—until Jacksonville was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1966, making it the perfect travel destination.

The Buildings

Visitors step through time when they stay at the Jacksonville Inn or as they walk through the indoor halls near one of the favorite local boutiques, such as Terra Firma. Each

store holds its breath, letting the traveler pass his or her fingers over the old wood or brick. These historical buildings, which line Jacksonville’s main street, have been meticulously restored. Caroline Kingsnorth of the Jacksonville Historical Society says owners have to “jump through a seemingly endless set of hoops in terms of compatibility with surrounding properties.” These requirements may greatly challenge residents and small business owners, but they preserve priceless historical architecture. Constance Jesser, owner of the Jacksonville Mercantile, faced these challenges when designing the sign to hang outside her store. “It had to

A covered walkway between stores oﬀers visitors a nostalgic atmosphere and shade from the summer heat.

The Beekman House

Visitors are not limited to businesses along the main street; they can also tour some of the historic Jacksonville homes. One of these is the Beekman House, located on “millionaire’s row”— a row of three buildings that represent the only men lucky enough to strike it rich. While Beekman was the wealthiest of the three, his Gothic Revival– style home is intentionally rather modest. The home is now operated by the Jacksonville Historical Society as a living history site. Members of the society dress like the Beekman family and conduct tours, allowing visitors to

The Britt Gardens Music Festival Nestled two blocks from downtown Jacksonville is an outdoor theater̶an amphitheater that hosts the annual Britt Gardens Music Festival. This world-class music festival goes on for 41 nights̶from June through September̶and brings in as many as 70,000 people. It features artists in pop, bluegrass, electronica, jazz, rock, country, and classical music. Each season opens with a theatrical performance by Jacksonville Elementary; previous performances include Aladdin, The Trial of the Big Bad Wolf, and The Jungle Book. Who would have thought? comments Larry Smith. From gold mining to music!

experience the home as it would have been when Beekman bought, sold, and shipped gold.

The Hiking

Gold is not Jacksonville’s only treasure; hiking is one of its hills’ lesserknown gems. The town offers 16 miles of trails and 300 acres of protected land, all starting with the original Britt estate. Peter Britt preserved nineteenth-century Jacksonville through his land and his photographs,

which became the driving force behind designating Jacksonville a national historic landmark. However, Britt’s legacy lies with Jacksonville’s extensive trail system. “We got the Britt Gardens started in 1989,” Smith says. “It’s the most successful small-town preservation trail project in the state of Oregon.” Residents rejoice in the ability to step outside and onto the trails. “My favorite hike is the one right outside my door,” says Jesser. “It leads down the Chinese digging trail and then

Residents and tourists can shop at Jacksonville Mercantile, a building constructed in the 1850s that houses a modern grocery store.

56 ▶ summer 2013

Photo by Greg Emel

be a certain font, it had to be a certain color—but inside the store, we could have done anything,” Jesser says. She and her husband, David, decided to keep the interior “authentic” and decorated it with antiques. Customers can now purchase hand-rolled pasta and Italian balsamic vinegar in an environment similar to one the early Jacksonville settlers experienced when purchasing their flour and salt.

culture

From top: photos by Greg Emel and Susan Bunny

The storefronts of Jacksonville still appear as they did 150 years ago, oﬀering tourists a glimpse of the past.

up towards Britt.” Most of the trails had nineteenth-century practical uses, such as the Digging Trail, which was used by the Chinese railroad workers. Some of the more popular trails include the Sarah Zigler Trail, the Jackson Forks Trail, and the Panorama Point Trail. These hikes introduce visitors not only to Oregon’s oldest living Giant Sequoia but also to the site of the area’s first gold discovery and to spring and summer’s vibrant array of wildflowers, some of which are entirely unique to this area. Smith remembers one warm July night when he took a teenager staying with his family up to see Panorama Point: “It was 11 o’clock, and I saw the moon coming up, and I said, ‘Mario, let’s just go for a hike.’” Smith and Mario walked all the way out to Panorama Point, which overlooks the city. “We sat up there and just reveled in the warmth and the beauty and being able to see so clearly,” Smith says. What they enjoyed was the pollution-free view of Jacksonville as history’s gift—a nineteenth-century town that is perfectly preserved. Visiting Jacksonville is an experience you can’t find anywhere else. Like so many visitors, Jesser first came to Jacksonville and thought, “Gosh, I want to stay.” There aren’t a lot of places with the quiet ambiance of Jacksonville—that perfect blend of heritage and home. The difficulty of keeping this historical site preserved, even while new businesses like the Jacksonville Mercantile move in to fill economic needs, is well worth any effort. Smith comments, “Walking in the evening, with the church steeple, the backlighting—as I walk down Sixth Street—it is amazing.” ▶

www.jaxhistory.com

—Bryn Clegg

Original signs, like this one showing a miner at work, add historical ﬂavor to the sidewalks.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 57

58 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 59

Left: Fried bug kebabs̶crunchy and salty snacks̶are popular in many Asian countries. Who needs potato chips when you can have these? Right: An adventurous Beijing tourist is unsure what to expect from his ﬁrst taste of bamboo worms.

For Westerners who consider an eight-ounce bloody slab of cow muscle mouth-wateringly delicious, a crispy fried grasshopper or mealworm should pose no problem. But let’s face it, it does. And the whole “facing it” issue may be the real problem. If our food has eyes and a mouth and seems to look back at us, it causes a gut reaction—literally. But here are five ideas to consider about insect consumption that might help you overcome your squeamishness should you be offered something six-legged to eat during your travels.

West, things are starting to change. Adventurous chefs out to please their well-traveled patrons are increasingly featuring insects on their menus, and these insect dishes have become quite a trend at high-end dining establishments. In September 2010, the Brooklyn Kitchen restaurant hosted an all-bug, four-course dinner at $85 a plate. Earlier that year, Specktakel restaurant in Haarlem, Netherlands, held two bug buffets, both of which sold out, and the restaurant always has at least one bug item on the menu.

Everyone Is Doing It

You’ve Done It Before

About 80% of the world’s population regularly consumes insects, according to Florence Dunkel, an entomologist at Montana State University. Westerners are clearly in the minority. But even in the

60 ▶ summer 2013

That’s right. Americans consume an average of one pound of insect matter annually through unavoidable food contamination, not counting the 10 or so bugs we consume in our sleep

Is it time to bite back? each year. The average chocolate bar has eight insect parts in it, and this contamination can be as high as 60 insect parts per 100 grams of chocolate before the FDA will reject it as unfit for human consumption (www. fda.gov). Dr. Morton M. Teich, an allergist, says that many patients with chocolate allergies are actually reacting to cockroach contamination in the chocolate. When Dr. Teich discusses this accidental insect consumption with his patients, he tells them that it is almost impossible to avoid insect matter in food. “You probably would have to stop eating completely,” he says. He also believes that attempts to reduce insect contamination would result in higher pesticide use, which would likely be much worse than eating a few bugs every year anyway.

From top left: photo by Jacek Sniecikowski; other photos by Ville Oksanen

!"#$%!&'(

culture

Bamboo worms and greens̶it s what s for dinner at an upscale Yunnan-style restaurant in Beijing.

Insects are nutritional powerhouses, higher in most nutrients and often lower in fat (depending on the species) than other livestock food sources. For example, according to Dunkel, a 100-gram serving of beef rib roast contains 24 grams of protein, 10 milligrams of calcium, and 3.5 milligrams of iron. An equivalent 100-gram serving of caterpillar (usata terpichore) contains 28.2 grams of protein, a whopping 355 milligrams of calcium, and 35.5 milligrams of iron. The caterpillar is the clear winner. Perhaps in the future we will encourage our children to eat their grubs along with their vegetables. (In spite of this amazing nutritional profile, if you are allergic to shellfish, you may be allergic to certain insects as well—in which case they would most certainly not be good for you. Proceed with caution!)

It Could Save the Planet

According to Aaron T. Dossey, a biochemist, entomologist, and founder of the biotech company All Things Bugs, “Insects hold great potential to contribute to global food security” in a way that also protects the environment. This is because there are edible

species available locally practically everywhere, and they reproduce quickly. Insects also require much less space and water than livestock, have a much higher feed conversion rate, and often eat agricultural waste products that are inedible for people or for other livestock. On top of all of that, they produce fewer greenhouse gasses than cattle.

You Might Even Like It Quite a few bugs get two thumbs up in taste tests, even from westerners. Deborah Curtis, a daring actress and grandmother from Denver says, “For Halloween we make chocolate chip cookies with crickets in them. They’re delicious!” Peter Menzel, author of the book Man Eating Bugs, claims that a fire-roasted witchetty grub from Australia “tastes much like a tender cheese omelet rolled in a smoky phyllo-dough shell.” He also says that fried bamboo worms from Thailand taste “like salty crispy shrimp puffs.” You might even agree with him, but you’ll never know until you try it!

—Serenity Kimball

Many of the commonly consumed insects around the world are species of crickets, grasshoppers, ants, cicadas, and beetle grubs. Here are some especially popular insects you might encounter in your travels.

Mopane Worms̶Africa Large caterpillars of the emperor moth that can be eaten dry and crunchy or covered with a sauce after cooking

Bamboo Worms̶Thailand Larvae of a moth that feeds on the inner pulp of bamboo that is eaten as a snack like potato chips (fried and crispy on the outside while slightly gooey on the inside)

Chapulines̶Mexico Common grasshoppersw harvested from alfalfa ﬁelds, eaten as ﬁnger foods sprinkled with chiles and lemon juice, and occasionally served as a pizza topping ▶

www.foodinsectsnews letter.org

It’s Good for You

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 61

!"#$"%& Cooking the Stereotype

English Food There’s a saying that goes, “Hell is where the cooks are English.” Some people describe England’s food as bland or icky; others claim that the English eat only fish and chips. You may have heard these rumors, been turned off by dishes like blood pudding, or heard horror stories about Marmite. But perhaps you’re looking in the wrong places. Several traditional English dishes have survived through centuries and continue to delight diners today.

Full English Breakfast The full English breakfast was once a daily meal, but now the English eat it only on holidays and weekends. The meal features bacon, eggs, sausages, grilled tomatoes, mushrooms, toast with marmalade, and baked beans. Trevor Stocking, an American who spent a few years in England, says he loved full English breakfasts because “there was lots of protein.” The full breakfast is a bit greasy, but if you want to start the day with a calorie boost, it fits the bill.

Cornish Pasties

Theoretically from Cornwall, Cornish pasties originated with pasties the tin miners ate during their short lunch breaks. Resembling a meat pie, the pasty has a thick crust with a crimped ridge that the miners could easily hold to eat during meal breaks without dirtying the meat, onions, and potatoes inside. The crust of this savory, salty pie also holds in the heat. If you need to pack a lunch, a Cornish pasty will do quite nicely.

Roast Dinners

The English eat roast dinners primarily on Sundays and holidays. This menu includes a meat (generally roast beef), roasted potatoes (cut up and fried in oil), steamed vegetables (carrots, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cauliflower, and so on), and Yorkshire puddings (a scone-like dish), with gravy drizzled over it all. During the holidays, the meal is embellished with pudding, mince pies, and Christmas crackers. Stocking says roast dinners reminded him of Christmas and Thanksgiving at home. However, the English make them “so much more often,” he says, “that it’s all the more wonderful.”

Top: A Cornish pasty holds a hidden treasure of meat, onions, and potatoes. Bottom: You ll never forget your ﬁrst full English breakfast.

62 ▶ summer 2013

If you’re heading to England, how can you find these English favorites? If you are lucky enough to have an English friend to cook for you, thank the powers that be and dig in. If you aren’t that lucky, here are a few tips to finding good food and restaurants. Colin Rivera, a student from London, says it’s hard to give specific

Photos by Kadluba

Finding the Goods

culture

What about the Pudding? In England, pudding can refer to any dessert and was originally a tasty way to get in some extra nutrients. Some traditional English desserts are bread and butter pudding, sticky toffee pudding, and fruit crumble. Robinson explains that fruit crumble is very English in that it s heavy and it s hot̶it s meant to fill you up. If you re a petite eater, you may want to steer away from English pudding. It s meant to pack on the pounds. But if hot and filling is what you like, order up and enjoy.

recommendations because the English divide themselves into communities based around their local pubs, and each community believes its pub is “sacred.” However, most pubs have good food, so it’s hard to go wrong with them.

Clockwise from top: photos by Dulke, Karen Booth, and Blue Waikiki

It s hard to go wrong with a pub. When in doubt, ask a local.

actually quite appetizing before World War I. However, appreciation of good, home-cooked meals faded as microwave dinners and frozen products grew in popularity and as women began working outside of the home. For a long time, Robinson explains, the English didn’t see “cheffing” as a real job, just “something to do if you couldn’t do anything else.” Now, cheffing has taken off, Robinson says,

because of celebrity chefs’ successes in the 1990s, recent improvements in cooking science, and better catering courses. Now chefs are both reviving traditional English recipes and experimenting with new ones, especially “fusion food” recipes. Robinson believes that “fusion foods—local base ingredients coupled with international cooking methods—will become the staple of British cooking within the next five to ten years.” Citing European food as the standard of gastronomic excellence, he declares that “British food can quite happily stand up to that food nowadays.” If you haven’t given English food a try yet, forget the stereotypes and join those who have fallen in love with English fare. ▶

www.goodfoodguide.co.uk

—Patrice Carey

Laurance Robinson, a chef from the Isle of Man (off the coast of England), has worked in British and international restaurants and says any restaurant that looks well-kept should have good food. He recommends checking the restroom because “if they have a clean toilet, they have a clean restaurant.”

Getting beyond Stereotypes

Robinson also addresses English food’s bad reputation. He clarifies that the food in England was

Top: A fare of meat pies, bread, cheese, and eggs is an English cuisine tradition. Bottom left: English roast dinners are famous for their delicious taste. Bottom right: Raisins heaped on a buttered scone create a delectable treat.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 63

Zucchini

Four Corners of the Kitchen

Zucchini is one of the most abundant foods of the summer. Whether the cool, crisp vegetable is overflowing in your own summer garden or at a local farmer’s market, consider these unique dishes next time you get your hands on some zucchini. These recipes dress up one of summer’s best vegetables and are sure to bring you something beyond the typical zucchini bread and zucchini fries.

—Mickell Summerhays

Zucchini Salad Mexico

Mexican cuisine uses zucchini and zucchini flowers in everything from quesadillas to soups. This fresh salad is a combination of traditional Mexican vegetables and spices, with just a hint of lime. Serve it as a side salad or as a topping on your favorite tacos.

Ingredients

2 teaspoons olive oil 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon cumin 3½ cups zucchini, diced 1 red bell pepper, diced ½ onion, diced 1½ cups frozen whole-kernel corn 1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped 1 lime salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil, spices, salt, and pepper in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add zucchini, peppers, corn, and onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 to 8 minutes, or until the vegetables are crisp and tender. Remove from heat and stir in cilantro and the juice from 1 lime. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 4–6 servings Total time: 20 minutes

64 ▶ spring 2013

Photos by Chloe Barnes

Directions

culture

Greece

France

Ratatouille

Zucchini Dessert Pie

Grecians are traditionally known to fry zucchini in olive oil. These fritters will satisfy your cravings for something fried with the tastes of the Mediterranean. Serve them hot or at room temperature, with or without dipping sauces.

Originating in France, this traditional dish—once known as a poor man’s food—is the French way to use zucchini. Serve it as a side or over pasta, couscous, or rice.

In the United States, zucchini is sometimes included in dessert by baking it into pies, muffins, and brownies. This baked zucchini dish is a slight departure from the norm. It’s the summer cousin of pumpkin pie, and though it may have a slight green tint, the flavor more than makes up for the color.

Zucchini Fritters

Ingredients

1 pound zucchini, grated 2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons Italian spices ¼ cup ﬂat-leaf parsley, minced ½ cup Parmesan cheese, shredded ½ cup dried breadcrumbs 1 medium yellow onion, grated 2 eggs, beaten 2 tablespoons ﬂour freshly ground black pepper to taste olive oil for frying

Directions 1.

Grate and salt zucchini. Transfer to a tea towel; squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Mix zucchini, Italian spices, parsley, Parmesan cheese, breadcrumbs, onions, eggs, and flour in a bowl. Season with pepper and divide mixture into 12 balls. Press balls into ¾”-thick patties. Pour oil into a 4-quart pot to a depth of 2 inches; cook over medium-high heat until a deep-fry thermometer reads 315° F. Working in two batches, fry patties until browned and crisp, 5 to 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer your fritters to a plate lined with paper towels. Let them drain and cool for 2 minutes, then enjoy.

Ingredients

4 tablespoons olive oil 3 teaspoons herbes de provence 4 cloves garlic, minced ½ yellow onion, diced 2 carrots, diced 1 yellow bell pepper, diced 1 can petite-diced tomatoes 2 zucchini, sliced thinly 1 yellow summer squash, sliced thinly 1 Roma tomato, sliced thinly 1 red bell pepper, sliced thinly salt and pepper to taste

Directions 1. 2.

Yield: 6 servings Total time: 30 minutes

Opposite page, from top: Mexican zucchini salad, Grecian zucchini fritters, French ratatouille, American zucchini pie

Preheat oven to 325°F. In a large skillet, combine 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1½ teaspoons of herbes de provence, 3 of the 4 cloves of garlic, ½ onion, 2 carrots, 1 yellow bell pepper, and salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat until soft and fragrant—about 10 minutes. Add the can of petite-diced tomatoes to the skillet and stir mixture until warm. Spread a layer of the skillet mixture into an oven-safe baking dish. Layer the slices of zucchini, squash, tomatoes, and red bell pepper over the mixture. In a small skillet, combine 2 tablespoons of olive oil, 1½ teaspoons of herbes de provence, and 1 clove of garlic. Cook over medium-high heat until the garlic is soft and tender— about 5 minutes. Pour this mixture over the sliced vegetable layer in the baking dish. Bake the ratatouille at 325°F for 2 hours, or until the vegetables are tender and slightly browned.

Yield: 6–8 servings Total time: 3 hours

United States

Ingredients

2 cups zucchini, peeled, pureed, and cooked 1 tablespoon butter ¼ cup sugar ½ cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ginger ½ teaspoon allspice ½ teaspoon nutmeg 1 cup evaporated milk 3 eggs 1 (9-inch) pre-made pie crust

Directions 1. 2.

Preheat oven to 425°F. Peel the zucchini and cut it up into 1-inch chunks. Cook in butter over medium-high heat for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the zucchini is soft and cooked through. Pour off any excess water from the zucchini (a key step for getting the right texture) and purée in a blender. Mix zucchini purée and dry ingredients together. Add the evaporated milk and eggs to zucchini mixture. Use a hand mixer to blend well. Pour into unbaked 9-inch piecrust. Bake at 425°F for 15 minutes, then reduce to 350°F and bake for 40 to 45 minutes longer, or until a knife inserted slightly off center (about half way between the center and edge) comes out clean. The center will still be slightly wobbly. Let the pie cool and solidify for 2 hours. Serve cold or at room temperature with whipped cream.

Yield: 8 servings Total time: 3 hours

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 65

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/01-203-0445 66 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

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Field Notes Photo by Robin Atherton

Iconic ancient statues of Easter Island seem to preside over the annual marathon on this remote island.

Highway Highlights

Proﬁle

Oﬀ the Beaten Path

Service

Tales from the Trip

Photo Contest Winners

Get your fill of authentic food and local color around the Black Sea Ring Highway.

Hear Dr. Summer Rupper’s exclusive tales and tips from her excursion to the Bhutanese Himalayas.

Run along the shore of the world’s most mysterious island.

Embark on a journey to bring hope to impoverished Peruvians.

Hear travel stories from Stowaway readers.

Take a look at Stowaway readers’ best photos from near and far.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 67

Back in Black Caravan the Black Sea Ring Highway Twelve countries. One road. The Black Sea Ring Highway is a recently formed blacktop highway that encircles the coast of the Black Sea for about 7,700 km and touches major cities in both Europe and Asia. That’s a lot of ground for travelers to cover. Still, whether you’re peddling your way on a bike, cruising in a Soviet-era Polski Fiat, or hogging the road on a motorcycle, traveling this highway is a must for the adventurous spirit interested in Eastern Europe and the Middle East. The Black Sea Economic Cooperation (BSEC) has famously run a caravan of trucks around this highway to promote international commerce, bridging gaps among bickering nations, and testing the efficiency of the border crossings. So if you’re up for a little adventure and a lot of memories this summer, follow in BSEC’s footsteps and start your own caravan around the Black Sea. Avoid getting caught up in touristy clichés and get to know the people and culture of the countries you are visiting by supporting local markets in these key cities along the highway. Smell the spices, devour the baklava, and learn to haggle with the best of the babushkas.

Central Market Chişinău, Moldova Enjoy traditional Moldovan goods along MitropolitVarlaam Street, where thousands of people come every day to purchase fruits, vegetables, and other fresh goods at the farmer’s market. Men and women walk with their arms laden with wares, and other locals sell produce out of buckets on the side of the street. After a morning at the market, head up the road to Cathedral Park and have a picnic with your freshly purchased produce. The central market is a great destination. Even

68 ▶ summer 2013

if you don’t feel like haggling down the relatively affordable prices, you can watch the motley crowd of shoppers and experience the local color of Chişinău. ▶

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/ moldova/chisinau/shopping/market/

Dry Bridge Market Tbilisi, Georgia In this weekend flea market, you’ll find absolutely everything you never knew you needed. In the stalls of the Dry Bridge Market, both history buffs and travelers with a penchant for kitsch will be satisfied with the array of knickknacks. Get yourself a medal from the 1980 Moscow Summer Olympics or perhaps a freshly printed “old” photograph of Charlie Chaplin in prison stripes. As long as you don’t concern yourself too much with which antiques are strictly authentic, you’re bound to find a souvenir that will double as a great conversation piece. ▶

www.lonelyplanet.com/ georgia/tbilisi/shopping/ market/dry-bridge-market

Privoz Market Odessa, Ukraine Diana Nyad of NPR described the Privoz Market as “a cross between a recycling center and a department

store.” In Ukraine’s largest open-air market, which is also one of the largest markets in the world, tourists can find anything and everything. Products range from high-end luxury items such as caviar and perfume to bargains like fresh produce and building materials. Locals suggest that confused foreigners who don’t speak the language look for the starushki, elderly vendors who will usually work with you and treat you well. ▶

http://www.ukraine.com/ sights/odessa-privoz-market

Louloudadika and Chalkeon Markets Thessaloníki, Greece Treat yourself to some summer blooms in the flower district of Louloudadika, near bustling Aristotelous Square. This tiny picturesque gem is tucked away on a street just around the corner from the Thessaloníki Hagia Sophia, one of the oldest churches in the city and a replica of the one in Istanbul. After meandering among the flowers, wind your way over to the Chalkeon copper market where the artisans still craft their goods in the traditional way. And be sure to check out the Church of the Panagia Chalkeon, also known as “the Virgin of the Coppersmiths.” The domed, multi-level church boasts

frescos from the eleventh century and has provided a home and inspiration to copper artisans for centuries. ▶

www.urbanadventures.com/ Thessaloniki_tour_hidden_markets_of_thessaloniki

Bucharest, Romania Targul Taranului Market

If you’re looking for authentic, traditional Romanian goods, look no further than Bucharest’s Targul Taranului farmer’s market. This “slow food” market is a venue for local farmers to sell their goods in the city. After you’ve indulged in local honey and pastravafumat (smoked trout preserved in pine branches), enjoy a visual feast at Bursa Marfurilor (also known as the “Ark Building”) just around the corner. Once the site of the Bucharest stock exchange, the building now celebrates architecture, design, and contemporary art. ▶

www.earthmarkets.net/ network/bucharest

Photos by dynomosquito and Matthias Rhomberg

Grand Bazaar Istanbul, Turkey Rugs, tiles, lamps—this place is Ali Baba’s cave on steroids. Constructed in the fifteenth century, the Grand Bazaar is one of the largest covered markets in the world, claiming sixty streets, five thousand shops, and between 250 thousand and 500 thousand visitors a day. The mad crush of people will be well worth the experience. Although there are tourist traps, local vendors also provide authentic and varied goods and food. Keep in mind that haggling is expected and required in this maze of shops. Go ahead, get yourself that belly dancing costume. We know you want to. ▶

www.grandbazaaristanbul.org/ Grand_Bazaar_Istanbul.html

—Brooke Randell Rugs, ceramics, and jewelry in Istanbul s Grand Bazaar.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 69

Life

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Dr. Summer Rupper, Glaciologist If you were choosing a field of study, would glaciers ever cross your mind? After talking to Dr. Summer Rupper, maybe they would. Rupper is a mother of two, a professor, and a glaciologist, and her field studies on glaciers take her to exotic places all over the world. Although it can be painful for her to leave her family for long stretches of time, Dr. Rupper still loves what she does as a glaciologist. Dr. Rupper studies a sample of an ice core.

What motivated this trip? Bhutan is a developing country with only one major national export— hydroelectric power for India. The glaciers are a major meltwater source for the rivers, and as the glaciers are rapidly retreating, the question

70 ▶ summer 2013

is whether or not that’s going to be a long-term, viable resource. The problem is that glaciers create massive floods. A flood in 1994 damaged one of the most sacred Bhutanese Buddhist temples and killed numerous people. The Bhutanese have a lot of questions about safety and economic resources that are directly tied to these glaciers. So we’re collaborating with them and helping them understand what the issues are.

How did you handle the altitude changes? You have to be really careful about altitude sickness. We did have one member go down with symptoms of cerebral edema [a swelling of the brain], and we had several that stayed in a lower camp because they weren’t adjusting well enough to the altitude. Altitude sickness can hit absolutely anybody. We prepare the best we can; we have medications, including injections.

Did you have any crazy, unexpected experiences? I’m not afraid of spiders or snakes or heights or anything else, but it turns out I really hate leeches. I found that out when we started the hike where it was basically a jungle. There were leeches—and they can go straight through your wool socks and everything. I was really grossed out by those.

What was it like working with the Bhutanese assistants? Many of the Bhutanese working for the company were quite young—in their teens—and they were about the hardest workers I’ve ever seen. On occasion, they would sneak me little pieces of candy or chocolate. They called me Mum Summer. That was really fun.

Photo courtesy of Summer Rupper

This past year, Rupper had the opportunity to hike in the Himalayas with six other scientists and a team of 14 Bhutanese assistants. Dr. Rupper led the glaciologists on the team. They took a seven-day trek through atypical trails that weren’t exactly pedestrian friendly: boulders and rocks from landslides covered the paths, and tree roots also obstructed the way. But neither the rain nor the formidable landscape deterred Dr. Rupper; her desire to study the Himalayan glaciers and their effect on the hydrosphere overcame her dislike of the bad weather. Below, Rupper shares with Stowaway some insights about her trip.

Did you learn a lot about Bhutanese culture during your trip?

a very negative mass balance. That basically means they’re out of balance with the present-day climate, and they have to get smaller. We’ve been able to show that at minimum, even if climate doesn’t continue to change, these glaciers have to change area by at least 10%. That’s a 30% reduction in meltwater. Our initial results show that big changes are going to happen in the coming decades, and we need to prepare for them.

What kinds of things did you eat? Did you have a lot of dried foods?

I thought I knew what hot was.

I’m still learning. Bhutan is predominantly Buddhist and is very peaceful. It’s been given the name “The Happiest Country in the World.” It’s actually illegal to climb above 6000 meters because that’s where the gods live. This means most of the peaks in Bhutan have never been summited, since climbing would disturb the gods. It’s very pristine.

No, actually. I have never eaten such good food in the field. The Bhutanese cooks would go hide in a cook tent, and then they would come out with these amazing dishes. For a typical meal, they would serve some kind of soup that we’d eat first. Next, they’d come out with huge dishes of rice and then four other dishes: a vegetable, a meat, another vegetable, and a sauce that you’d pour over the rice. Then fruit for dessert. Every dinner was like that. One of the main staples in Bhutan is an incredibly hot pepper. I grew up in the southern United States, so I thought I knew what hot was—but these peppers would bring a Cajun to tears. The cooks were very nice to us, and they would often cook without the peppers in certain dishes so we could eat some of them.

What research conclusions were you able to draw?

Photo by Erik Torner

Right now my research is still very preliminary, but these glaciers are in

Do you have any advice for those interested in traveling for study?

For me, it’s making sure that the students I take with me and the colleagues I work with are fun to be around. In the field, you work from two to six weeks with somebody, and conditions can be rough. But the right personality can enjoy any condition. People like this make the most of the experience: they enjoy it, even under the worst circumstances. The people you choose to collaborate or travel with can make all the difference. ▶

www.himalaya2000.com

▶

www.himalaya-experience.com

—Amy Carlin

Beyond the Sea ̶Bobby Darin Papa Loves Mambo ̶Perry Como Feeling Good ̶Vocal Point

At high altitudes, ice and glaciers survive through the warm summer months.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 71

Runners experience the wonder of Easter Island as they race past the coast.

Running with the Gods The Easter Island Marathon

The History of the Island

The Dutch travelers who discovered the island in 1722 named it Easter Island because they found it on Easter Sunday. Easter Island (Rapa Nui) is in the southeastern Pacific Ocean and is a special territory of Chile. But Easter Island lies 2,182 miles away from Chile and 1,289 miles

72 ▶ summer 2013

away from the closest island, Pitcairn Island—placing it truly in the middle of nowhere. The island is famous for the 887 giant moai statues, made out of volcanic ash. These figures fill the island’s horizon. Ancient residents believed they were a medium for connecting the living with the dead. Rodrigo Salas, creator and coordinator of the Easter Island Marathon, says that running past these moai is the best part of the marathon and that all the runners love the turn-around point on the mysterious Anakena beach. Here, surrounded by the moai, the runners feel they are transported into an ancient world of the gods. Salas says that the runners who experience the wonder of the moai experience “the honor to feel the ‘mana’ or blessing of the island’s gods.” The moai heads still puzzle anthropologists, who wonder how these huge figures were created, why they were so important, and exactly what they represented. Archaeologists estimate that the process of creating the heads caused the island to

become deforested and many trees and birds to become extinct. This deforestation—combined with other dangers such as internal warfare, European diseases, and kidnapping— dramatically decreased the island’s population. By the end of the nineteenth century, 97% of Easter Island’s population had either died or left the island. Since then, Easter Island has increased its population and revived its culture. Still, the island remains one of the great mysteries of the past.

The Creation of the Marathon

Salas started traveling to Easter Island in 1989 from his native Chile and has now traveled there more than a hundred times, and he created the Easter Island Marathon in 2000. An avid marathon runner himself, he has already been in the New York City Marathon 14 times, the Moscow Marathon twice, and the Boston Marathon twice. Salas says he created the marathon on Easter Island because of the beautiful scenery and the island’s rich

Photo by OREALC/UNESCO Santiago

Among the larger-than-life statues of ancient gods—called the moai—runners from all over the world gather every June for the Easter Island Marathon. Many of these runners choose to come here because Easter Island is one of the grandest mysteries of Earth’s history. With a population of only five thousand people, the once nearly deserted island is among the most remote places one can dare to travel. Since the Easter Island Marathon is an extreme travel marathon—much like marathons in Antarctica and the Galápagos Islands—runners who come all the way out to the island must be dedicated to their sport.

ﬁeld notes

history. “Running in the middle of the Pacific Ocean on the most isolated island in the world is a unique experience,” he says.

The Marathon Today

At the beginning of June, more than 250 international runners enjoy a six-day stay at the Taha Tai Hotel right on the coastline of Easter Island. On June 2, they gather to run a 10K, a half-marathon, or a full marathon around part of Easter Island’s 63.17 square miles. While running, they can sense the history of the island and its utter remoteness as they scan the ocean horizon. After the run is over, they congregate for a special awards ceremony. Salas says that the ceremony is one big party. Runners combine with the locals to participate in “folkdance, music, and movies of the weekend,” building “a lot of friendships among the runners.” One great experience the runners have is interacting with the Easter Island locals. The locals keep their history alive by maintaining the Rapa Nui traditions. Some locals also run in the races or put on shows for the runners on the first day of the trip and in the awards ceremony at the end. The runners get to see the vitality and peacefulness of the locals and their culture. Salas loves bringing people together to experience a race that few people in the world have ever run. For him, the reward is seeing people enjoy what he has created. After all, who wouldn’t enjoy the thrill of running a marathon on one of the most mysterious islands in the world? Photo by Nicolas de Camaret

▶

www.marathontours.com (search for the Easter Island Marathon)

—Victoria Candland Some residents on Easter Island present shows and ceremonies to share traditional culture with visiting marathoners.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 73

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ﬁeld notes

Building in Peru

Photos by Jerry Simons

Ruth was kidnapped when she was nine years old. She had been poor—an orphan child who had spent much of her life scavenging for food in the littered streets of Cusco, Peru. Yet she longed for that life after she was towed 500 miles away to a brothel outside of Lima. Forced to live a life of horror and condemned to physical and emotional abuse, Ruth was held hostage for more than six years.

A donated animal can provide food and livelihood to a village for many years to come.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 75

A police raid on the brothel finally freed the 16-year-old from her servitude. But her hope did not last long. Dropped back onto the streets of Cusco—a home she no longer knew— Ruth was lost in a cruel world and haunted by memories. But hope returned to Ruth’s life one morning, when a police officer arrested her for stealing. The officer took pity on the young girl’s plight and contacted Janet Lopez, the director of the girls’ orphanage supervised by the Hope Projects Foundation. Even though Ruth was too old to go to the orphanage, Lopez was struck by Ruth’s story and determined that something needed to be done. Within weeks, the Hope Projects Foundation had secured a makeshift area to house Ruth and other young women like her. This area was temporary until a more permanent “big girls’ orphanage” could be built. Donations from the United States paid for food, supplies, and clothing. Those who provided donations were given the opportunity to travel to Peru and participate in the service projects made possible by their donations. Like Ruth, many people throughout the high Andes are searching for one thing that feels impossible to find in their harsh circumstances: hope. The founder and director of the Hope Projects Foundation, Dr. Jerry Simons, wants to give hope to these people too.

The foundation is funded by donations from anyone with a desire to help. Dr. Simons created the foundation because of the corruption he saw in various charities around the United States. “I wanted a way to donate to those in need without any of the money going to administration salaries, cars, travel, and so on,” he says. This is the beauty of the Hope Projects Foundation: every penny donated goes directly to help the Peruvian poor. In 2007, the foundation was awarded the Humanitarian Service Award from Brigham Young University. In 2009, the president of Peru gave the foundation the Peru Humanitarian Service Award. This

was the first time a non-Peruvian organization had received the award. Hope Projects Foundation received this award again in 2010 and 2011.

How can you help?

The foundation’s website outlines several donation options. Anyone interested in helping can sponsor a child for $50 per month, pay for a village to receive a pig for $125 (to use for food or to trade), or donate money to build orphanages, schools, clean water systems, and much more. It is easy to help. Dr. Simons tells of a nine-year-old boy who donated 93 cents seven years ago to help pay for two ducks to be provided to a village.

What is the Hope Projects Foundation?

The foundation, which began back in 1967 as a small non-profit organization, continues today to help people of Peru provide for themselves. When it began, it served only one or two villages. But over the years, it has grown to serve 61 villages and help more than 556,000 people.

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Hope Projects help assure little children that the future will be better than the past.

ﬁeld notes

Today, there are more than 200 ducks for the villagers to use for food and trade. People who donate have the opportunity to participate in expeditions to Peru to see the difference their donations have made. These expeditions take place in the spring and last up to three weeks. According to Dr. Simons, volunteers travel to 16 or 17 villages to participate in the dedication of completed projects. The cost for the expeditions is modest and includes expenses only for travel, lodging, and food.

Why help Hope Projects Foundation?

Hope Projects Foundation helps the people help themselves. As Dr. Simons explains, “Hope Projects

provides building materials, farm animal pairs, and a little supervision and allows the people to do all of the work to build and then maintain what they build.” Not only does this program help people gain a sense of purpose and dignity, but it also ensures that the orphanages, hospitals, and systems stay intact and running for years to come. Dr. Simons has dedicated his life to giving hope to the hopeless. When asked what the most rewarding part of the foundation is, he says it’s “seeing a people who live with a sense of nothingness, who are without hope, find light in their own spirits by building a school, a clean water system, or a medical clinic, or receiving a pair of oxen and sharing the plowing ability with their whole village.” The Hope Projects Foundation has made a difference in the lives of

hundreds of thousands of people. Only months after being given a home and a sense of worth, Ruth has grown into a mature young woman. The foundation built the Big Girls’ Orphanage and provided a psychologist to meet with the girls three times per week in order to help them progress. These girls are taught survival skills, hygiene practices, and strategies for returning to normal life after the horrors they have experienced. They find meaning in life through making friends and pursuing their educations. Though the horrible memories may remain, the girls at the orphanage learn that they no longer need to be defined by their pasts. Once left desolate, Ruth and thousands like her have finally found hope. ▶

www.hopeprojects.com

—Jessica Johnson

With the help of Hope Projects, villagers are able to build their own schools and ﬁnd purpose and worth in their work.

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Tales Trip from the

Skinny Dipping in Italy

80 ▶ summer 2013

of us yelled. We shot through the forest, running between and around the trees. It didn’t take long to make a loop around the island and get back to the shore. That’s when we saw, back on land, a man with binoculars. We crouched down and jumped back into the water. We were startled, but we’d heard that it is not a big deal to swim without clothes in Europe, right? As we swam back, we noticed another person on the slope where we had left our clothes. He tried to make it down the steep trail leading to our clothes but turned back to avoid slipping. More people came. As more people gathered, I became more and more nervous. “If this is okay in Europe,” I wondered, “why is it gathering such a commotion?” Back on the shore, we quickly hopped out and put on our shorts. We had no choice; the group stood between our packs and us. We

climbed the ridge and were faced by a group of five people, accompanied by a park ranger. There was a silent tension for a moment. Then a woman in the back yelled out, “Bravo! What courage!” They were impressed by our ability to swim all the way out to the island—and had come to congratulate us. They welcomed us and wished us luck.

—Logan Havens Toquerville, Utah

Illustration by Abe Kimball

The train pulled into the small station nestled in the Italian Alps. From here on, only buses could make the steep terrain to Cortina d’Ampezzo, and we had an hour before boarding. We were in our last few days of a monthlong camping trip through Europe, and we’d taken only one shower up to that point. Lucky for us (and even more so for those forced to deal with us and our smell) a long, slender lake sat in the valley not far from the station. We walked down the lush hillside to the edge of the smooth teal lake. Apart from the bright blue sky, everything was warm and monochromatic green. To keep our clothes from being wet the rest of the trip, we left them on the shore and slipped into the water. About 100 yards away stood a small island covered in trees. We swam to its shores and found a thick forest with a soft carpet of moss. “Well, I’m going for a run!” one

ﬁeld notes

Pants for Paintings in Cuba I’ll never forget when my friend and I traded some clothes and an old backpack for three custom-made paintings in Trinidad, Cuba. When in another country, I personally subscribe to the rule never to buy any sort of knickknack, sit-onthe-shelf-and-collect-dust souvenirs (a lesson I learned from my mother). I was more interested in casually talking to people in the street. My friend Tallan, on the other hand, was on the prowl for some good art to bring home. I came across a portly man whose name I can’t remember—we’ll call him Damian. He was a painter by trade and was selling his own paintings right out of his house. After we made some small talk about my trip and his paintings, he started talking about something completely unexpected: my pants. “Ay, chico, those are some nice pants. You really don’t see that kind of quality here.”

I looked down. Nothing special; just a pair of normal, everyday jeans I had picked up at Walmart for 20 bucks. “Tell you what,” he continued, “since we’re both gordos, and those pants would fit me well, if you see any painting you like, we can talk about exchanging your pants for a painting or two.” While the notion that this heavy man could possibly fit into my jeans hurt at first, a business proposition suddenly occurred to me. I didn’t want art, but I desperately needed cash since I had already spent most of mine on irresistible Cuban cuisine. But Tallan had cash. And he wanted paintings. The next day we returned, armed with goods to bargain with. I laid my pair of jeans and a hooded sweatshirt on the ground. Tallan laid out his bathing suit, a shirt, and his old backpack—practically everything he had brought with him on his trip.

After an hour or so, Damian waved us goodbye, content with his “new” pair of jeans, a hooded sweatshirt, a T-shirt, and a backpack. Tallan walked away with three large paintings and two small ones. And now Tallan owed me 30 dollars and one of the small paintings. All three of us had done very well that day. Every time I look at that small painted figure of Che Guevara upon canvas that now hangs on the wall above my bed, I remember how small yet special that moment was. It might sound funny, but knowing that my pair of jeans is still in Cuba, being used by an artist as he tries to survive the struggles of his everyday existence, really makes the trip more special to me. Cuba has become a part of me, and in a way, I have become a part of it.

—Jason Cronin Medford, New York

Drunk on Disney Air Chest heaving, legs pumping furiously, and hands aiding my lurching strides upward, I glanced to my left to see my father and siblings gliding toward me on the other escalator. No, I was determined to be victorious! I redoubled my efforts and continued battling the pull of gravity. It was the end of a long day at the Happiest Place on Earth. Rides had been ridden, snacks eaten, screams given, and all of us were in that pleasant state of exhausted satisfaction. Before I knew it, we were headed toward Disneyland’s vast parking garage. Because it was closing time, there was a traffic jam of people at the ascending escalator. However, the escalator’s descending twin remained vacant, mournfully continuing its downward slide. My father turned to me.

“Bet you can’t reach the top before I can.” What? My father was actually daring me to run up the down escalator? Dreams really do come true! Looking back, I realize how wholly irresponsible it was of my father to ask this of me—and how completely imbecilic I was to agree. But what can I say? We were drunk on Disney air. Rational thought was not part of that equation. So there I was, risking my life at my father’s whim. While he stood calmly and watched, I was that idiot child working 12 times harder than necessary to reach the top of the parking garage. But, gosh dang-it, I was going to win this race. I was three-quarters of the way up when my right foot slipped, slamming my kneecap down on the edge of the step in front of me. I quickly

got back to my feet and muscled through the pain, cursing the loss of altitude that brought me neck-andneck with my competitors on the lazy side of the stairs. It took a Herculean effort, but I made it to the top a whole three seconds before my family. Victory! Of course, it wasn’t until I had taken a couple of steps toward our car that I realized I had rivers of blood running freely down my leg from two puncture wounds on my knee. I still carry those scars, which look for all the world like some giant purple snakebite. The pain was obnoxious, but the triumph was worth it. Of course, having my mother and grandfather carry me to the truck was an added bonus.

—Kaitlin Barwick Herriman, Utah

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82 â&#x2013;ś summer 2012

First Place Cortina d Ampezzo

Cortina d’Ampezzo is a village nestled in the Alps, surrounded by the Dolomite mountain range in northern Italy. We were told by some mountain bikers to head up there for the best section of mountains. A day later, we climbed up the via ferrata (a rock-climbing route fitted with iron bars and steel cables) to the top for the best sunset of my life.

—Logan Havens Toquerville, Utah

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Second Place

The View from Down Here My young niece is precariously holding a crystal globe in her hands and peering through it. This photo makes me ask, “What does this innocent girl, free from pretense or deceit, see in the not-so-transparent world around her? How do we see children through the world’s eyes? How will the world distort her self-image as she grows up in it?”

—Stephanie Staples Blue Springs, Missouri

Third Place Lake Bled, Slovenia

I love how the stark, natural beauty of the swan captures the foreground, while the aesthetic architecture of the chapel is the focus of the background. These two elements of a Slovenian scene complement each other and represent both natural and man-made beauty.

—Tiffanie Abbott Aurora, Illinois

View honorable mentions and submit your own photos on our website at www.stowawaymag.com. 84 ▶ summer 2013

Insider Photo by Ray Christie

Cell phones have become essential in today s world. On Instagram alone, 40 million photos are posted each day.

Gadgets & Gear

Just the Ticket

Tips & Tricks

Insights

Apps

Find out how taking photos is a snap with pocket-sized smartphone lenses, or learn what tools you need to unearth some gems in your travels.

Keep in contact—easily and cheaply—with your family and friends while you travel the globe.

Try something new during the summer and learn to waterski.

Get the scoop on travel health—check out the World Health Organization’s tips for travelers.

Increase your travel app-titude and pack Stowaway in your own “Pocket.”

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 85

!"#$%&'"#($ Give your back a break and leave that heavy bag of camera equipment at home. Smartphone lenses are the perfect travel companions since they are compact, can snap right onto your smartphone, and are small enough to fit snugly in your pocket. While they might not produce the same caliber of photo as a DSLR camera does, they are one-tenth the weight. Welcome to photography: the cheaper, lighter version.

If you’ve ever wanted to view life from the inside of a fishbowl, then this is the lens for you. The fish eye is an extremely wide-angle lens that can show views of up to 180 degrees or more, giving the photo a spherical effect. The huge angle capture and accompanying distortion means this is probably not the best choice of lens for a clean image, but it’s great for a more creative shot. So break out your favorite beret and get ready to release your inner artist. ▶

Amazon.com

B. Photojojo Wide Angle Lens ($20)

You know those people. The ones who make you squeeze even closer to your uncle Bob in order to make sure everyone fits into the photo you asked them to take. There’s an easier way: the magical wide-angle lens. Attach this fun starter lens to your phone and have the option of playing with perspective or keeping everything in sharp focus. Get more in your photo and stretch the limits of time and space—or at least fit everyone in your party into your photo with ease. ▶

Photojojo.com

C. Patazon Macro Lens ($7)

Go for the macro lens if you want the magnifying glass effect without the hassle. There are some details that just can’t be missed. This is the lens for all those times you can’t get close enough, or just don’t want to. Capture the beads of dew on a fresh green blade of grass . . . or something like that. With the macro lens’s marvelous up-close superpowers, it will snap right onto your phone and expose the texture and life in every subject. ▶

Amazon.com

D. Photojojo Telephoto Lens ($20)

)

86 ▶ summer 2013

It’s time to get around all those roped off areas, walk right past those security guards to that dolphin, and snap the perfect shot. Figuratively speaking, of course. The telephoto lens is the answer for all those times you yearn for the bigger picture. This lens has a longer focal length than the actual lens length. That’s a fancy way of saying that you get a big ol’ picture with a petite little lens. Why walk a hundred yards when you can snap this gem on your phone and refrain from moving any muscles but the ones in your index finger? Say goodbye to pixels and hello to some full-framed goodness. ▶

Photojojo.com

—Ali Kirk

Photos by (a) Piero Fissore; (b) Kevin Dooley; (c) Broo_am; (d) Kevin Dooley

A. Patazon Fish Eye Lens ($7)

insider

You Ain t Nothin but a

+!()#%!,"You don’t have to be an archaeologist to unearth a few treasures. When I was a kid, I bounced down a bumpy road in our old family car on the way to dig up some geodes.

Photo by Jeﬀ Moser

The dust flew into the sky behind us as we crossed the desolate landscape of western Utah. Soon I caught sight of a series of holes and trenches up ahead. We came to a stop, and I jumped out of the car with my shovel in hand. With a little guidance from the adults, we dug in the correct layer of earth until we found the special rocks. On the outside they looked like any old rocks, but we cracked open a few and saw the spectacular, glimmering crystals inside the geodes. You too can be a rock hound— someone who collects rocks, minerals, and fossils as a hobby. All you need is some preparation, a few basic tools, and a way to store and label your treasures.

Preparation

Before taking your own trip, you’ll need to have a few things. Make sure you have permission or the proper permits; laws vary by state,

A young rock hound hits the jackpot near Weeks, Nevada.

and any collecting done on private land requires the owner’s permission. Bring some durable clothes, sunscreen, and maybe a hat. You’ll also need gloves and eye protection if you’re going to be using hammers and chisels. And most importantly, don’t forget to bring enough water.

Collection

Most rockhounding gear is practical rather than technical. To collect geodes, you’ll need shovels, buckets, and hammers to crack the rocks open. But not everything can be picked up or dug up with shovels. You have to extract most of the beautiful minerals and fossils from the surrounding rock. This sort of rockhounding involves examining the layers of rock as you search for veins of the material. To help you find crystals that would otherwise be very easy to miss among the grit, rocks, and dirt, a spray bottle and magnifying loupe are

recommended. Finally, you’ll want a hammer and a chisel made for cutting rock. Heavier tools like a pry bar can help you lift rocks or widen cracks but aren’t usually necessary.

Storage

To protect larger rocks that you have collected, wrap them with newspaper and keep them in a box or a bucket. Keep smaller specimens in a smaller sturdy case so they don’t get lost or broken. You’ll also want to label your specimens. Simple masking tape can serve as an effective label out in the field and will help you keep a history of your special finds until you can make a nicer label back at home. ▶

www.mamasminerals.com

▶

www.estwing.com

—Ben Keeley

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 87

Using Your Cell Phone Abroad

Know Your Service Provider

All of the major wireless providers in the United States allow for international roaming and calling, but certain companies have more extensive networks. AT&T and T-Mobile use the worldwide Global System for Mobile Communication (GSM), so their phones are more likely to work in foreign countries. Verizon and Sprint also have some global services,

88 ▶ summer 2013

but they require either purchasing a data plan or having an internationalcapable phone.

Turn Roaming Oﬀ and Manual On

Data charges are actually one of the more expensive parts of cell use abroad. So consider turning on automatic smartphone functions, like checking email, only when there’s a free wireless connection.

Use a Skype To Go™ Number

If you want to make low-cost international calls, Skype allows calls to be forwarded, which can help you save on roaming charges. Simply enter the international number you want to call, and Skype will give you a new number to dial that will get you through to the same line. Since no Internet connection or data plan is needed to make calls with Skype To

Go, it’s perfect for talking while in a foreign country.

Switch the SIM Card

If you want to avoid renting an international cell phone, which can cost up to three dollars a day, you have two options for SIM cards: local or international. A local card is specific to your destination and is the cheaper option if you’re not a regular traveler. More frequent flyers may want to use an international SIM card because it needs to be purchased only once and can be used in multiple countries. Be like Eliot and E.T. and get creative with your phoning home. With these tips, you don’t have to be afraid of using your cell phone while you’re abroad. ▶

www.moneysavingexpert.com/ phones/cheap-roaming-calls

▶

www.cnn.com/2009/TECH/05/27/ cell.phones.overseas/index.html

—Kevin Haws

Photo by Gonzala Baeza

E.T., the extraterrestrial, isn’t the only one who needs to phone home while in a foreign land. With modern cell phone technology, calling should be a lot simpler now than it was back in 1982. But what about using your cell phone when traveling abroad? Stories of phone bills in the thousands scare us into leaving phones off or at home. But there are certain ways to reduce the costs of using your phone abroad. You just need to be prepared with these cell phone tricks and facts.

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Tips for the Beginning Water Skier Now that the summer sun is shining, ditch those snowboards and slip into some water skis. Forget the winter parka and snow tires and grab your boat and swimsuit. Don’t have the gear? No problem! We’ve got you covered.

Illustration by Bryn Clegg

Need water skis?

Before you try backflips and other tricks, make sure you have the right set of skis. Here are a few helpful hints for finding that perfect set: ▶ Choose Wider Tips A wider tip provides more stability for beginners and makes it easier to get up. ▶ Find the Proper Length The length of the skis depends on the skier’s weight. ▶ Young adults weighing 80–150 pounds should choose skis 66–67 inches long and 6½ inches wide. ▶ Adults weighing 150– 200 pounds should choose skis 68 inches long and 6½ inches wide. ▶ Try Combination Pair Skis A multifunctional set of skis is great for beginners and gives you the option to try slalom skiing after you have mastered them.

Need accessories?

It’s important to have the right accessories before you hit the lake. To become a successful water skier, you must have the following: ▶ Life Jacket This indispensable safety item should fit snugly while still providing total mobility. Choose one with a nylon outer shell to prevent chafing when it’s wet. ▶ Ski Rope Look for a ski rope that is 75 feet long—the standard length. ▶ Gloves Find a standard pair of water-sports gloves. These can eliminate blisters and chafing. Your hands will thank you later. Most outdoor stores sell these items, but some also rent them. If you have friends who are waterskiing experts, they’ll have all the gear you need and additional expert advice to go with it.

Need a boat?

If you don’t have a boat of your own, renting is your best bet if you feel comfortable driving a boat and towing a skier. Ask your water-sports store about rental options. If you arrange a skiing lesson, the boat will be provided for you. Of course, you can always convince a waterskiing friend to take you out on the lake. Each state has different boating laws. So if you are interested in renting and driving a boat, be sure to check with the local DMV to verify whether you need to obtain a boating license. Each state has different boating laws. If you are interested in renting and driving a boat, be sure to check with the DMV nearest you to verify if you need to obtain a boating license.

Need a lesson?

An easy, inexpensive way to learn to waterski is to find water skiers you know and persuade them to give you a lesson or two. If that’s not an option, many water-sports businesses offer waterskiing lessons. Look online for a store or lake near you.

Neon Lights ̶Natasha Bedingﬁeld On Top of the World ̶Imagine Dragons Jump Then Fall ̶Taylor Swift

—Kacey Schneider

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 89

The World Health Organization

A Resource for World Travelers In our globalized world, health is everybody’s business. Gone are the days when epidemics were landlocked, ravaging isolated communities until the disease burned itself out. We’re a world of commuters and globe trotters; travel is how we play and how we do business.

Each time you travel, your destination determines your health risks. You may encounter diseases, sudden changes in climate or altitude, limited availability of medical services, unpurified water, and unhygienic conditions. Before you take off on your next big adventure around the globe, minimize your health risks by checking out the travel section of WHO’s website, where you can get health information specific to the country you plan to visit.

90 ▶ summer 2013

A doctor greets a young boy inside a hospital in Port-au-Prince, Haiti. The boy is visiting his older brother, who was injured during the large Haitian earthquake in 2010.

Health Risk Updates

Infectious diseases spread rapidly, and epidemics break out suddenly. But new vaccinations are invented all the time. With the global health climate changing almost daily, it’s important to keep on top of the spread of infectious disease. That’s why WHO offers frequent health updates for travelers. These updates describe potential diseases and their symptoms, as well as what to do if you contract one of the diseases.

Vaccination Information

If you’re wondering what kinds of vaccinations you should get before you leave home, WHO’s got you covered. WHO provides two comprehensive

lists—one with vaccinations you probably received as a child but should make sure are up to date before you leave, and another for people planning foreign travel. Each listed vaccine links to a description of the virus the vaccine protects against, recommendations according to age, and success rates.

Disease Distribution Maps

Before you leave, take a quick look at the site’s easy-to-read maps, which indicate areas at risk for particular diseases and areas reporting recent outbreaks. These maps inform you about any epidemics you should vaccinate against in the country you plan to visit.

Photo by Steve Cadman

But each venture away from home exposes us to health hazards. That’s why the World Health Organization (WHO), a specialized agency of the United Nations, offers health services to international travelers.

insider

Safe Food Pamphlet

Getting sick from foreign foods is almost unavoidable when you’re traveling. This guide teaches you how to identify what foods are safe and avoid dangerous microorganisms. In case your best efforts fail, the pamphlet provides instructions for diarrhea treatment. You can download a free PDF of the guide to take along.

General Precaution Information

If you have some time on your hands before you leave, take a few minutes to browse the rest of the travel section of WHO’s website. The site offers advice on medical care before and after your trip, travelers’ insurance, what kinds of hygiene

and medical items to pack in your emergency kit, and how to care for travelers with special needs.

WHO Yearly Report

This comprehensive index contains everything you need to know about keeping healthy while you travel and staying healthy once you arrive. You’ll also learn about infectious diseases, including how the diseases are transmitted, what vaccinations are available, and where the diseases are most prevalent. You can order a hard copy for $36 or download a PDF for $12. Much of the information is also available on the website, and you can download select chapters for free.

▶

www.who.int/ith

Why WHO? In the nineteenth century, the Industrial Revolution and New Imperialism spawned increased trade, population mobility, and rapid urbanization. With so much contact between nations, governments and international businesses began to worry about global public health. Following World War I, the League of Nations initiated an intergovernmental health organization, which sought to control and prevent disease,

—Katja Nelson

especially pandemics like smallpox. After World War II, the League of Nations Health Organization was renamed the World Health Organization. Its constitution was formally ratified on April 7, 1948, making the day the first World Health Day. Since then, WHO has initiated the mass tuberculosis inoculation of 1950 and played a substantial role in the eradication of smallpox. In 2000, the UN and WHO worked together to create eight goals for all 191 UN member states, including combating malaria, reducing child mortality, and eradicating poverty and hunger. This summer, as WHO celebrates its sixty-fifth anniversary, the world applauds WHO s health initiatives and

Photo by Utenriksdept

recognizes that WHO makes the world a little safer for travelers everywhere.

The World Health Organization is part of the United Nations, which is headquartered in New York. WHO headquarters is on the outskirts of Geneva, Switzerland.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 91

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insider

Pocket Stowaway

in Your

Climbing Everest or sailing the Pacific? No problem. Now you can pack your favorite Stowaway articles and other online content to read offline during your trip by simply placing them in your Pocket. The Pocket app helps you save web articles, blog posts, videos, and images to read later, and it’s now available for free. Save some space in your suitcase and stow your favorite articles in your new Pocket app.

Get the Free App

The Pocket app is available for your iPhone, iPad, Android, Kindle Fire, or Internet browser. The Pocket app makes it easier to stow all your favorite web articles for your travels, however remote your destinations may be. ▶

getpocket.com

Web Minus Wi-Fi

Later, even when you don’t have an Internet connection, access all your articles in the Pocket app’s great user interface.

Pack Your Pocket

Taking your favorite Stowaway articles to read on the train, on the mountainside, or anywhere you are traveling is a snap. Simply go to stowawaymag.com to find the articles you want in your Pocket.

Share to Pocket Photos by Julie Ogborn

Touch the “Overflow” button in the upper right corner of your screen to get a dropdown menu, and then touch “Share.” Touch “Add to Pocket” from the share menu that pops up, and you’re done. It’s that easy!

Great Features

Visit getpocket.com

Check out these other great aspects of the Pocket app as well: ▶ View your pocketed finds in a tile format or as a list. ▶ Filter or search contents by file type, title, or URL. ▶ Read articles in article view or switch to web view. ▶ Tag articles to organize contents into two categories: Favorites and Archive.

—Julie Ogborn www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 93

@$6>9$./>0"65 $BB 6+,, " A Food Factory Tours Across the US

If thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one summer activity that everyone can agree on, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eating food. Pack your bags, spoons, plates, doggie bags, and appetite, and head for a food-filled road trip through the wonderful world of factories

Cheese Connoisseurs !"##$%&&'()*++,+(-$./&012 !"##$%&&'3(40+5&6 Say cheese! This self-guided tour allows you to watch the production of cheese from a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-eye view. Watch the cheese factory workers as they churn out 167,000 pounds of cheese each day. Along the way, interactive kiosks give additional information about nutritional values, and the tour ends with one free sample of any Tillamook cheese, from Colby Jack to Garlic White Cheddar. And for dessert, stop by the Tillamook ice cream counter. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss this chance to eat cheese and potentially take a picture with a Tillamook cow. Hours: Open daily, 8:00 AMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8:00 PM Cost: Free â&#x2013;ś

www.tillamook.com

Candy Craver

7+##1(8+##1( -$./&012( W q )$#"9&06"$ Never take candy from a strangerâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; unless of course you are in the Jelly Belly factory. In this candy-loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s paradise, you can take a 40-minute tour to see more than 150 treats, from taffies to chocolates. Visit the Jelly Belly Candy Store and Sample Bar. You can try each flavor of Jelly Belly and any new item on the menu. Take the opportunity to eat free candy and to learn what it takes to become an iconic jelly bean. This weeklong process may sound easy, but the jelly beans may actually work harder than we do. Hours: Open daily, 9:00 AMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;4:00 PM Cost: Free â&#x2013;ś

94 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

www.jellybelly.com

Ice Cream Lover

8+6(:(7+001;,(-$./&012( <$/+0=>013(?+0%&6/ Sometimes all you need in your life are two reliable men: Ben and Jerry. Their ice cream brand is considered the ultimate comfort food. The Ben & Jerryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s factory tour allows you to see the ice cream production process in action. The tour starts in the Cow Over the Moon theatre, heads to the

escapades

mezzanine viewing room, and ends in the FlavoRoom with one free sample of the flavor of the day. If one sample isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enough, the Scoop Shop lets you indulge with a few scoops of any flavor choice. Tours during the summer months offer outdoor activities, including picnicking and visiting the Flavor Graveyard, where retired flavors have been laid to rest. This factory is a perfect getaway to add to your summer bucket listâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and you can even fill that bucket with Ben & Jerryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ice cream. Hours: Open daily, 9:00 AMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9:00 PM Cost: $3 â&#x2013;ś

www.benjerry.com

Chocoholic

A+0,*+1;,()*&.&#$/+( 1 i A+0,*+13(C+66,1#D$6"$ Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better than chocolate? Free chocolate, of course, which you can get at the Hersheyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chocolate World Tour. This conveyor beltâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;style tour allows you to experience chocolatemaking through the eyes of a cocoa bean. The process begins in a jungle, where cocoa beans are harvested; then youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re off to the loading docks for

shipment to America. Finally, you head to a simulated factory tourâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you even go through an â&#x20AC;&#x153;ovenâ&#x20AC;? complete with special effects. The result? A free sample of Hersheyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delicious chocolate. After the tour, you can stop by the Hersheyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chocolate Tasting Adventure to taste an assortment of chocolates and become a chocolate expert. Explore the world of Hersheyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and remember to bring your sweet toothâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need it. Hours: Open daily, 9:00 AMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;5:00 PM Cost: Free â&#x2013;ś

www.hersheys.com

Soda Seeker

1 n i E/#$6/$3(F+&05"$ If you like to stick to American classics, this is your factory. Take a trip to Atlanta, Georgia, which harbors the 125-year-old secret of CocaCola. In 1886, Dr. John S. Pemberton concocted the formula of Coca-Cola syrup that combines with carbonated water to create the drink that made polar bears famous. A popular myth states that each of the two company executives knows half the secret. This is untrue; the secret has been revealed to a select few employees and currently resides in a vault in the Sun Trust Bank in Atlanta. Along with the tour, guests can experience exclusive displays, see a giant polar bear, and sample more than 60 beverages from around the globe. Perform your duty as an American and taste the highfructose beverage that unites the nation. Hours: Open daily, 10:00 AMâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;6:30 PM Cost: $16 â&#x2013;ś

www.worldofcoca-cola.com

â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Cassidee Feinauer

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 95

!"#$%&'$(%)&*"& +(,#,-.&/(#,$-#0'111

2*%.$#&#3$&40$$5,-.&0$##$%1& 6$7%$&.*,-.&*8%)$09$)1 Spend time in England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland

Travel Summer term 2014

Application deadline: February 3, 2014 English Language Study Abroad in Britain http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp/

96 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

staﬀ essay

Gelato

Photo by Piero Fissore

Moments Our feet blistered and our backs ached as we wandered around Rome and idly wondered whether Italians ever sweat. This was my first trip to Italy, and my two friends and I had decided to take a couple of days to explore Rome’s cultural and historical sites—a choice that, in the sweltering heat of August and with my flimsy shoes, I was starting to regret. Even my initial awe at the Colosseum began to wear off once the tour began. We weren’t allowed to walk on the crumbling arena—the place was crawling with photo-snapping tourists just like us—and I realized that this historical edifice just wasn’t as fascinating to me the way it was to my friends. “It’s just old,” I thought wearily and wondered whether the whole trip was a mistake. We finished our tour and staggered back out onto the street, debating how we should spend the rest of our evening before heading back to our hostel campsite. Unwilling to walk anymore, we

looked around for a place to sit and found one on the curb. Then one of my friends spotted a gelato stand nearby. “I’m getting some,” she announced. She went to the stand and returned with a cone stacked high with strawberry gelato. My parched mouth began to fill with envious saliva. I leapt to my feet, ran to the stand, and practically hurled my money at the Italian vendor. He handed me a cone laden with chocolate gelato, and I licked it immediately. The cold sweetness filled my mouth with pleasure. As I returned to my seat on the curb, I heard a dulcet melody from beyond a nearby wall. “There must be a concert somewhere on the other side,” I thought, and I was enjoying it for free. This moment was perfect. Each golden thread of felicitous coincidences—the Colosseum, the singer, and most of all the gelato— was woven into one spontaneously flawless moment. Gazing at the Colosseum, amber-colored now in the light from the setting sun, I suddenly

realized that people could love their traveling experiences uniquely. The joy of the journey for me wasn’t in the monuments from time and history. It was in the present. It was in the unexpected bursts of pleasure—gelato moments like this one. Even though we were hot and had swollen ankles every night when we returned to the hostel campsite, our days in Rome were full of those precious “gelato moments.” Like finishing Where Angels Fear to Tread beneath clusters of hanging violets that E. M. Forster discusses. Or following the sound of an accordion playing “Tocatta and Fugue” into the shade of the Siena Cathedral. Or meeting Sam, the street artist, and buying two of his tiny pictures of Florence. Or riding a train for the first time through fields upon fields of Tuscan sunflowers. These were enough gelato moments for me to fill up my heart— and ignore the holes in my shoes.

—Katja Nelson

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 97

Parting Shot The beauty and traditions of Navajoland are endless. The ancient lives are etched in each contour of the beautiful buttes of Mother Earth, reminding us that our existence in this world is a gift. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Eugene Tapahe Monument Valley, Arizona (Navajo Nation)

98 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

Rent by the hour. Any hour. Hertz On Demandâ&#x201E;˘

$9â&#x20AC;&#x201C;10 per hour 4 locations on campus Gas and insurance included in price. Must be 18 or older. Rates subject to change. Questions? Call BYU Travel at (801) 422-3872

Summer 2013

SUMMER 2013

Swedenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Midsommar Dream

Celebrate summer in Sweden, p. 28

Cultivate fresh ideas and help them take root.

peacecorps.gov

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

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Also in this issue

Heritage Lights: Cape Town, South Africa, p. 34 Bali Your Way: The Beach, the Past, and the Pose, p. 38 Fighting AIDS in Uganda, p. 44