Stowaway Spring 2012 by Brigham Young University Editing Students

Spring 2012

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

Travel by Saddle Equitrekking: A New Way to Vacation, p. 42

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE Bostonâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Your Way, p. 36 Spring into Action:Charity Runs, p. 10 10 Travel Tips for the Clean Freak, p. 70

SPring 2012

Departments 7 Letter from the Editor 10 Spring into Action: Charity Runs

Culture 14 16 17 18

Gardens around the Globe The Incredible Not-So-Edible Egg Pretzels: A Twisty History 4 Corners of the Kitchen: Chickpeas

Field Notes 56 What the ZORB are you talking about? 58 Cost-Conscious in Costa Rica 60 Blue Ridge Parkway: America’s Favorite Drive 64 Tales from the Trip 66 Photo Contest Winners

Getaway

Insider

22 Atlanta on My Mind 23 Albuquerque: The Right Turn 24 The Layers of York 26 Berlin: An Architectural Tour 28 New Caledonia: Explore, Dream, Discover

70 72 73 74 77 78

22 ON THE COVER Equitrekking host Darley Newman and her local guide, Dewy Matthews, canter through the Canadian Rockies during the show’s fifth season on PBS. Photo by Chip Ward

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10 Travel Tips for the Clean Freak App-titude for Travel No Ticket Required Escapades: Famous Streets Staff Essay: Leaving the Harbor Parting Shots

36 facing page, left to right: photography by justin brown; Kevin C. Rose/Atlanta Stock Photography; William Lane; Courtesy of ZORB; and illustration by josh talbot

Features 32

Celebrating 100 Years of Friendship

See why friendship is at the heart of the “greatest springtime celebration” at the National Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC.

Boston—Your Way Look no further for a one-stop destination. In “the Athens of America,” explore the topic of your choice: food, literature, sports, or history.

Equitrekking: See the World from the Saddle Darley Newman’s travel show on PBS gives a unique view of the world—one from the back of a horse.

Food Trucks: A Taste for Travel The food offered on today’s 14-ton moveable restaurants is nothing like the pork and beans of its chuck wagon predecessor. www.stowawaymag.com << 5

Three out of every ten Americans will be impacted by a drunk driver in their lifetime.

DRIVE SOBER OR GET PULLED OVER.

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

MANAGING EDITOR Lindsay Brown

ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR Ashley Hasna

ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR Maggie Jensen

COPYEDITOR Vanae Nielsen

SENIOR EDITOR Lauren Bangerter

SENIOR EDITOR Alexa Justesen

ART DIRECTOR Marissa Empey

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Kathy Hopkinson

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Stephanie Smith

SENIOR DESIGNER Lindsey Gardiner

WEB EDITOR Sarah Tomoser

ADVISOR Jordan Carroll

EDITOR IN CHIEF Marvin K. Gardner

Web Team: Kelsey Gee, Ashley Hasna, Kathy Hopkinson, *Sarah Tomoser Business Team: Vanae Nielsen, Stetson Robinson, *Stephanie Smith All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, designing, and advertising *team leader

Printed by MagCloud

To donate to your local MADD chapter, visit www.maddUtah.org

Stowaway is produced as a group project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and do not represent the views or opinions of BYU. Stowaway takes inspiration from the words of Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

staff Photos by Chelsea fitch

G N RI

SP 2012

I’m a bag lady.

y mom will tell you that I’m a bag lady. I have a weakness for bags of all sizes, colors, shapes, and functions, and I hoard them shamelessly. In a single day, I might use three or four different bags. When I studied in London last summer, the occasion indisputably called for a new bag. I needed one that I could put a substantial amount of “stuff” in, everything from my wallet to my camera, guidebooks, and a snack or two. But more importantly, I needed it to be “pickpocketproof.” In addition, I wanted something stylish and non-touristy because I knew it would appear in all my pictures and I wanted to look like a hip local. My mom rose to the occasion and found me the perfect bag—a mid-sized paisley Vera Bradley bag with a shoulder strap for easy transport and a zipper flap that kept my belongings doubly protected. Last Christmas, I was in need of another bag. This one also had a special niche to fill. I needed something professional that I could take to work and on interviews, but I still wanted it to have some personality. Yet again, my mom hit the nail on the head and found me my “professional, yet funky” bag. It had all the essentials of the type of bag I was looking for: durable, big enough to hold a laptop, and professional in design. But on top of that, it had a little extra that endeared me to it: a funky pattern that said, “This is the bag of a professional—but a young professional.” I like to think of this magazine like my bags. First and foremost, this issue of Stowaway contains all the essentials that make it Stowaway. While we are always striving to make each issue better than the one before it, we still want to hold onto the essence of Stowaway. We have written, edited, rewritten, designed, and reworked every article in this issue to ensure that the essentials are better than ever before, bringing you fun, informative, and inspiring travel tips and tales—exactly what you would expect from a travel magazine. In addition to these essentials, we’ve worked very hard to give this issue that “little extra” in order to provide you with some of the unexpected. Among other

things, we take a trip across the globe on the back of a horse in “Equitrekking: See the World from the Saddle” (page 42). We ask you to jump in and let us push you down a hill in a giant plastic ball in “What the ZORB are you talking about?” (page 56). And we invite you to join the trend of gourmet-on-the-go with “Food Trucks: A Taste for Travel” (page 48). I hope that when you read this issue, you feel it speaking to you like my bag speaks to me, saying, “This is the magazine for a professional—but a young, fun, and funky professional.”

Lindsay Brown Managing Editor

www.stowawaymag.com << 7

Do Something Different. Serve in Leprosy Colonies. Lift Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Outcasts.

2012 Volunteer Sessions Christmas Session—Dec 28–Jan 4 (2011) February Session—Feb 6–22 March Session—March 12–16 March/April Session—March 26–April 4 Summer Session 1—June 11–27 Summer Session 2—July 2–13 Summer Session 3—July 16–Aug 1 Summer Session 4—Aug 5–10 Summer Session 5—Aug 13–24 Summer Session 6—Aug 27–Sept 8 Thanksgiving Session—Nov 18–24 Christmas Session—Dec 30–Jan 5

For more details, or to fill out an application online, visit:

www.risingstartourtreach.org 801.820.0466 dshurtleff@risingstarotureach.org

happenings

Spring into Action Charity Runs

Rex Lee Run Provo, Utah March 10, 2012 Held every spring, the Rex Lee Run gives people the chance to show their support and admiration for cancer victims and survivors. Runners can write the name of a cancer survivor or victim on a “Courage in the War against Cancer” certificate. The race raises cancer awareness and provides funds for cancer research. Runners can choose to race in either a 5K or a 10K. The race was named in honor of a former Brigham Young University president, who died of cancer in 1996.

Race for GRACE Grand Island, Nebraska April 14, 2012 Race for GRACE, which includes both a 10K and a 2-mile family fun run, benefits the GRACE Foundation (Grand Island Area Cancer Endowment). The GRACE foundation assists local cancer patients and their families with the financial burden of medical expenses. As a way to inspire runners and remind them of the cause, the race route is lined with the names of those who have suffered or are currently suffering from cancer. ► www.gracefoundationgi.org

► www.rexleerun.byu.edu

Earth Day 10K San Diego, California April 21, 2012 Celebrate Earth Day by running the Earth Day 10K, located on the San Diego coastline. This beautifully located race raises awareness and inspires appreciation for the environment. The proceeds for the event go to local nonprofit organizations and charities. Don’t forget to wear green! ► www.earthday10k.com

Journey of Love 5K Rockwall, Texas April 28, 2012 Help raise adoption awareness and education by participating in the Journey of Love 5K. A $20 registration fee is required, with all proceeds of the race going toward the Gladney Center ABC program, a 120-year-old nonprofit organization committed to helping families through the adoption process. ► www.active.com/running/rockwall-tx/journey-of-love-5k-2012

10 >> spring 2012

Middlebury Maple Run Middlebury, Vermont May 6, 2012 With its paved and dirt roads, elevation changes, and scenic mountain views, the Middlebury Maple Run is quickly gaining a reputation for being one of the most scenic races in New England. The proceeds of this race benefit the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation as well as several other local charities. Participation fees is $45 dollars for each runner (only $35 for students). Registration forms can be submitted online. ► www.middleburymaplerun.com

Run for the Dream Williamsburg, Virginia May 19, 2012 For this race, runners can choose to run either a half marathon or an 8K down the historic streets of Colonial Williamsburg. Proceeds raised by the event go to the Wounded Warriors Programs, which provide support to severely injured service men and women. The proceeds also benefit the Achievable Dream, a nonprofit organization that operates two nationally recognized schools dedicated to helping children with low socioeconomic status to break out of poverty. ► www.runforachievabledream.com

—Lindsey Gardiner

Walk Now for Autism Speaks West Palm Beach, Florida March 4, 2012 Each year, thousands of people participate in Walk Now for Autism Speaks to help raise vital funds for researching autism, the fastest-growing developmental disorder in the United States. There are no registration fees required, but participants are encouraged to raise as much money as possible in donations. ► www.walknowforautismspeaks.org/palmbeach

www.stowawaymag.com << 11

Summer School Take the classroom to the beach. Enroll in courses online and study on your own schedule. Get the BYU credits you need without sacrificing your summer vacation.

Online courses ADVERTISEMENT

elearn.byu.edu

Culture Arts >> Discover the art of spring—from exquisite gardens to elaborate Easter eggs. pages 14 & 16

Eats >> Snack on twisty pretzels, and explore the world

through our chickpea recipes. pages 17 & 18

photo courtesy of Virginia Museum of Fine Arts

Fabergé’s 1903 Peter the Great Easter Egg commemorated the 200th anniversary of the founding of St. Petersburg. page 16

arts

Gardens around the Globe

ith the earth as their canvas, gardeners use many varieties of plants during the springtime to create magnificent works of art. Even in extreme climates, gardens have been created to beautify the earth and inspire the imagination of all who have a chance to see them. Many locations around the world have large, elaborate gardens that highlight the cultures, values, and beliefs of their creators. From the rock gardens of Japan to the cactus gardens of Arizona, there are many destinations where travelers can appreciate the peaceful beauty of these artistic gardens.

England: Exbury Gardens Exbury, located in Hampshire, England, is a beautiful garden that contains more than 10,000 varieties of flowers. During May, the flowers are in full bloom, providing amazing fields of color that are reflected in Exbury Lake. Spring is the best time to catch the lovely meadow of golden daffodils. Exbury is also known for its display of rare trees such as the Chilean Laurel, which has very scented leaves and pink

14 >> spring 2012

cup-shaped flowers that appear in the spring. One unique feature of this garden is the steam railway that runs through it. This vintage-style train is a popular way to experience the garden. During the 20-minute ride, the train goes through a pumpkin and exotic fruit patch and around floral displays and herbaceous gardens. Visitors can also register to drive the steam train over 10 miles with an instructor as they take in the garden scenery. π www.exbury.co.uk

United States: Desert Botanical Garden Located in Phoenix, Arizona, the Desert Botanical Garden is full of unique plants native to the desert. Designed to showcase the beauty of the desert, the garden consists of an impressive array of cacti, wildflowers, and desert trees. Many different walking trails lead throughout the garden, and each trail highlights unique plants that flourish in a dry landscape. The Harriet K. Maxwell Desert Wildflower Loop Trail has gorgeous year-round displays. The peak of the wildflower season is in March and April. π www.dbg.org

Above: Desert Botanical Garden’s Sonoran Desert Nature Loop Trail has views of the surrounding deserts and mountains in addition to the cactus and flower exhibits. Top: Exbury Garden is in full bloom during the months of April and May.

opposite page: photos courtesy of exbury gardens (top); desert botanical gardens (bottom). This page: photo by ellen smith (left); melissa lindsay (bottom right)

Japan: Ryoan-ji’s Zen Garden In Kyoto, Japan, the Zen temple Ryoan-ji is best known for the unique, meaningful rock garden that surrounds the structure. The garden is believed to date as far back as the 1400s, although no one is sure exactly when it was created or who created it. Japanese rock gardens typically use simple designs that consist only of rocks, sand, and moss to express Zen beliefs. This particular rock garden has 15 boulders arranged on white gravel. In Buddhism, the number 15 represents completeness, but only 14 boulders can be seen from any angle in the garden. Because it is impossible to see all 15 at once, the garden emphasizes the Zen belief that the conditions of this world make it impossible to see things completely as they are. π www.ryoanji.jp

France: Claude Monet Gardens in Giverny Claude Monet, one of the most famous impressionist painters, was also a gifted gardener. He created a beautiful garden around his home in Giverny, France, that became his inspiration for a number of his most famous paintings of water lilies. These gorgeous gardens are now open for visitors to enjoy. At the front of the house is a flower garden called Clos Normand. Monet did not like gardens to be

organized in rows, so the gardens surrounding his house have a variety of flowers that differ in height. Roses freely cover iron arches throughout the garden. Monet also built a garden on the land across the street from his house, which he patterned after a Japanese water garden, complete with a large pond and bridge. The vegetation that surrounds the pond includes weeping willows, flowers, and bamboo. π www.giverny.org/gardens/fcm/visitgb.htm

Canada: Butchart Gardens The Butchart Gardens, located near Victoria, Canada, are full of color and sweet fragrance during the springtime. This elaborate 55-acre garden contains thousands of flowers, trees, and shrubs that are beautiful all year round. As if to complete the picture of spring, thousands of butterflies fly freely throughout the gardens. Illuminated floral displays can also be enjoyed on summer nights. Fountains and streams throughout the garden add to the splendor of the design. Coins tossed by visitors into these streams and ponds are donated to the Garth Homer Society, a foundation that creates opportunities for people overcoming developmental and physical obstacles.

Each day, thousands of people visit Ryoanji’s simple rock garden to contemplate Zen philosophy.

π www.butchartgardens.com

—Lindsey Gardiner

Above: The beautiful flowers in the Butchart Gardens accent the water features found throughout the gardens. Left: Claude Monet’s Garden in Giverny was modeled after Japanese water gardens and inspired his most famous paintings.

www.stowawaymag.com << 15

arts

The Incredible Not-So-Edible Egg

What if each egg were a magnificent work of art or an exquisite piece of jewelry? What if it could be opened up to display a ruby pendant or a jewel-encrusted picture frame? These kinds of ideas are what started Peter Carl Fabergé’s 33-year career of creating Imperial Easter eggs for the czars of Russia. Fabergé was a purveyor to the Court when Czar Alexander III commissioned the first jeweled egg for his wife, Empress Maria Feodorovna, in 1885. A skilled designer, Fabergé recreated the recognizable egg shape out of precious metal and jewels.

Fabergé’s first two egg designs were dictated by certain requirements, but by 1887, he was free to use his own ideas. His designs became much more intricate and elaborate. Each egg displays different colors, patterns, designs, and jewels. “Their value lies in the genius and great craftsmanship of Fabergé,” says Dr. Géza von Habsburg, an internationally renowned expert on Fabergé’s work. “Each one was completely different from the other.” Dr. von Habsburg’s work with Fabergé’s fabulous eggs and other jewels began more than 40 years

Created in 1912, the Czarevich Egg was created for Empress Alexandra Feodorovna as a tribute to her son, Alexei.

ago, after he was asked to sell the contents of a safe owned by a deceased former French ambassador to Russia. Upon cracking open the safe, he realized it was full of Fabergé’s jeweled creations. Dr. von Habsburg explains that the eggs are extraordinary works of art. “Each egg took up to two years to make, and each reflects the genius of Fabergé in its incredibly brilliant invention and execution.” A little-known fact about Fabergé eggs is that they also come in different sizes. Fabergé created thousands of miniature eggs for the nobility of Russia to give as gifts during Eastertide. Small enough to be worn as jewelry, each is completely unique. Fabergé created 50 known large Imperial Easter eggs before the Russian Revolution. Thirteen of these eggs are currently in the United States. They can be found in private collections such as the Matilda Geddings Gray Foundation and in museums in Washington, DC; Baltimore, Maryland; and Cleveland, Ohio. The largest collection resides at the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts in Richmond, Virginia, which displays five of the eggs in its permanent collection. This Easter, along with enjoying your traditional Easter eggs, give yourself a real treat—go see some of the exquisite eggs created by Fabergé. π www.faberge.com π www.vmfa.state.va.us/Collections/Faberge

—Ashley Hasna Made in 1896 for Empress Alexandra Feodorovna, the Rock Crystal Egg displays paintings of various places that were important to the Empress.

16 >> spring 2012

Presented to Empress Maria in 1898, the Pelican Egg uses a folding screen to reveal eight miniatures relating to the Empress’s charity.

photography courtesy of Virginia Museum of Fine Arts

On Easter morning, you are probably used to seeing a wicker basket filled with eggs—perhaps dyed chicken eggs, chocolate eggs, or colorful plastic eggs filled with a variety of candy treats. But what would you think if the eggs hadn’t been laid by a chicken or weren’t made of plastic or sugar?

eats

Pretzels A

History

Considering the pretzel’s many varied forms, it is no surprise that this tasty treat is probably the world’s oldest snack. An Italian monk around AD 610 is attributed with creating this delightful little treat as a reward for children who successfully memorized their Bible verses and prayers. Since then, pretzels have become linked with many different Christian holidays due to their religiously symbolic shape: the three holes representing the Trinity and the crossed design reminding people of prayer and worship. The modern practice of Easter egg hunts began with children hunting for pretzels on Easter morning. Despite its religious background, pretzels continue to be used in less religious ways in festivals and celebrations.

Luxembourg

illustration by william day

On the fourth Sunday of Lent in Luxembourg, the citizens celebrate Bretzelsonndeg (Pretzel Sunday). On this day, it is customary for men of all ages to present their sweethearts a large cake in the shape of a pretzel. To encourage the man’s feelings, the sweetheart returns the favor on Easter Sunday with a chocolaty, sweet egg of equal size. During leap years, the roles are reversed, and the women get to present their sweethearts a pretzel-shaped cake and wait until Easter for the response.

Germany

United States

Many claim that the Germans perfected the pretzel, known as Laugenbrezel. German pretzels have a unique, dark crust, originally the result of a baker who accidentally dropped a few pretzels in some laugen (lye), a sodium hydroxide solution used to clean countertops. The baker decided to cook the pretzels anyway, and the pretzels came out with a unique appearance and taste. In Schwaben (Swabia), citizens celebrate the new year with pretzels. During this time, pretzels are made with milk-dough or sweet yeast dough. The pretzels are used as a symbol to wish loved ones luck and well-being. In Munich, Oktoberfest is celebrated with pretzels. It is common for these pretzels to be made in many shapes, sizes, and colors. When walking through the many festivals during this time, you’ll often see patrons enjoying pretzels with white sausage and a ridiculously large stein of wheat beer.

It is rumored that the Philadelphia pretzel actually got its start 75 miles west of Philadelphia, in a small town named Lititz in 1850. The story goes that a bread baker, Ambrose Roth, showed hospitality to a hobo by giving him a warm meal and a place to sleep, and the hobo returned the favor with a recipe for the pretzel. Roth’s apprentice, Julius Sturgis, then started the first pretzel bakery in the United States. A more likely story is that the Pennsylvania Dutch (a German group) brought the pretzel to the United States, where it found a special home in Philadelphia. Today, Philadelphians consume 12 times as many pretzels as the national average. Many celebrate National Pretzel Day on April 26. The Philly Pretzel Factory, the world’s largest Philly-style bakery, celebrates on this day by handing out free soft pretzels in all 100 of its franchised locations. For more information: π Julius Sturgis’ Pretzel Factory: www.juliussturgis.com π Philly Pretzel Factory: www.phillysoftpretzelfactory.com

—Maggie Jensen www.stowawaymag.com << 17

eats

CHICKPEAS

4 Corners of the Kitchen

Italy

From appetizers to entrées, food lovers can taste the world in one little bean. For more than 7,000 years, chickpeas (or garbanzo beans) have been a staple food across a dozen different lands such as the United States, Italy, India, and the Middle East. The chickpea’s wonderful versatility makes it a useful ingredient in a delicious variety of food categories, including soups, salads, desserts, dips, entrées, and breads. —Marissa Empey

United States This recipe utilizes the chickpea as a variant of the classic American three-bean salad. The hearty texture and savory flavor make this salad the perfect addition to any springtime picnic or Memorial Day barbeque. This salad can even be made the night before to allow the flavors to meld.

Ingredients 1 (15-ounce) can of green beans or 2 cups freshly steamed green beans, chopped 1 (15-ounce) can of kidney beans 1 (15-ounce) can of chickpea (or garbanzo) beans 1/4 red onion, sliced in rings or minced 1/4 cup of Italian vinaigrette salad dressing 1 teaspoon sugar

Directions 1. Drain and rinse all the canned beans and set aside. 2. In a large bowl, whisk the vinaigrette dressing and the sugar. 3. Slice the red onion into thin rings (or you can mince them) and place them in the salad dressing/sugar mixture to allow them to marinate. 4. Toss the beans in the vinaigrette. Refrigerate for at least an hour or overnight. Yield: About 6 servings

18 >> spring 2012

Farinata This Italian flat bread is made from chickpea flour. A traditional snack from the region of Liguria, on the coast of northwestern Italy, farinata is a delicious street food that can be eaten plain or stuffed with vegetables, cheeses, sauces, meats, and herbs.

Ingredients 1 cup chickpea flour 1 1/4 teaspoon dried rosemary or 1 tablespoon fresh chopped rosemary 1 teaspoon salt 11/4 cup water 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing the pan and drizzling 1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

Directions 1. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, salt, and rosemary slowly into the water until combined. 2. Let the mixture rest for at least four hours or overnight. 3. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 4. Heat a cast-iron skillet in the oven for about 10 minutes. 5. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the batter and stir until it is all absorbed. 6. Carefully remove the cast-iron skillet from the oven and grease liberally with olive oil (2–3 tablespoons) until the skillet is totally coated. 7. Pour a half an inch of batter into the greased skillet and drizzle the top with olive oil. 8. Place the cast-iron skillet back into the hot oven, and cook until the edge appears dark and has turned a golden color (about 20–30 minutes). 9. Slide onto a cutting board and cut into wedges. 10. Sprinkle liberally with pepper and eat while hot. Yield: 4 servings

photography by justin brown

Chickpea Picnic Salad

Middle East

India

Roasted Red Pepper Hummus

For this Indian treat, green chilies are stuffed with potatoes and fried in chickpea batter. Famous to the region of Jodhpur, Rajasthan, this spicy dish makes a hearty snack. Mirchi bada can also be served as an entrée with couscous or rice. Tomato sauce and green chutney make great sauces.

Hummus is a traditional dip and spread from the Middle East made from ground chickpeas. Several countries, including Palestine, Israel, and Lebanon, claim it as a national dish. Although hummus is ubiquitous to the whole region— you can find it anywhere from street vendors to upscale restaurants—each dish will taste a little different and will be garnished in a variety of ways. You can add to this recipe with toasted almond slices, fresh parsley, pine nuts, a drizzle of olive oil, paprika, or thinly sliced fresh red peppers.

Ingredients

Mirchi Bada

For the filling: 4 long green chilies (Anaheim or poblano) 4 medium potatoes, boiled and mashed 1 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 teaspoon garam masala powder 2 1/2 teaspoon coriander leaves 1 teaspoon salt For the batter: 11/3 cup chickpea flour 1 1/8 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 cup water Salt to taste Oil for frying

Directions 1. Slit each chili along its length; remove the seeds. 2. Boil and mash the potatoes. 3. Mix the chili powder, garam masala, salt, and coriander leaves into the potatoes. 4. Stuff and cover the chilies with the potato masala. 5. In a separate bowl, mix the salt, turmeric, and the chickpea flour with enough water (about 1 cup) to make a thick, smooth batter. 6. Let the batter sit for about 10 minutes. 7. Heat oil in a deep pan. 8. Coat the chilies completely in the chickpea batter. 9. Deep fry the chilies until golden brown. Serve hot. Yield: 4 servings 1

Chickpea flour (also called gram flour, besan, or garbanzo bean flour) can be found in Indian markets, health-food stores, and select grocery stores.

Garam masala, an Indian spice blend, can be bought online, in Indian markets, or in the spice section of most grocery stores. 3 Tahini can be found in Middle Eastern markets, in health-food stores, and in the international aisle of some grocery stores.

6 tablespoons tahini (ground sesame seed paste) 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed 2 fresh red peppers, roasted (see below) 1 small garlic clove, roasted and minced 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons lemon juice

Directions To roast the red peppers: 1. Rinse and wash 2 bell peppers. Cut in half length-wise, core, and seed. 2. Cover a baking pan with a sheet of tinfoil, and lightly coat it with olive oil. 3. Wrap the garlic (with the skin on) in a packet of tinfoil. 4. Place the red peppers (cut-side down) and the garlic packet on the baking sheet. Broil until the red peppers are slightly charred and the skin is wrinkled. 5. Cool the red peppers in a covered bowl. 6. Peel away the wrinkled skin and slice thinly.

For the hummus: 1. Whisk tahini and olive oil together in a small bowl. 2. In a food processor or blender, combine chickpeas, roasted red peppers, garlic, and salt until the chickpeas are almost fully ground. 3. Add the lemon juice in a steady stream while the machine is running. 4. Scrape the sides of the food processor and process for one minute. 5. Add the oil-tahini mixture in a steady stream; continue to process until the hummus is smooth and creamy. 6. Transfer the hummus to a serving bowl and cover with plastic wrap for at least 30 minutes for the flavors to meld. Refrigerate up to 5 days. Yield: About 2 cups www.stowawaymag.com << 19

Let Your Feet Take

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Getaway for a weekend >> Mosey on down to Atlanta for the

weekend, or make the right turn at Albuquerque. pages 22 &23

for a week >> Unravel the layers of York, England, and tour the architecture of Berlin. pages 24 & 26 for a while >> Explore, dream, and discover New Caledonia. page 28

photo by Lindsay brown

The ruins of Fountains Abbey at Studley Royal Park are just one of the many places to explore outside the city of York, England.

page 24

away for a weekend

Atlanta on My Mind

If you ask Atlantans about their beloved city, be prepared for a rapid outburst of their favorite places. Rather than being jealous of their cool hometown, plan your own trip to Atlanta this spring. Here are a few must-see Atlanta attractions that will constitute a perfect weekend away. The Varsity The Varsity is the world’s largest drive-in restaurant. Join the throngs of people who have come to love the repeating chorus, “What’ll ya have?” After glancing at the menu, you can reply in The Varsity lingo, “I’d like a Naked Dog and an F.O.” π www.thevarsity.com

World of Coca-Cola Mosey on over to the World of Coca-Cola museum for refreshment. See the pop art collection, a 4D show, a full Coca-Cola assembly line, or an exhibition about what makes people around the world happy. π www.worldofcoca-cola.com

The Varsity has been part of the Atlanta landscape since 1928.

Stone Mountain The summit at Stone Mountain offers a beautiful panoramic view of downtown Atlanta. Carved into the side of the mountain are figures of General Robert E. Lee, Confederate president Jefferson Davis, and General Andrew “Stonewall” Jackson. In the late spring, you can finish off the day with a laser show, but don’t be surprised when the three Southern leaders ride off the face of the mountain to the accompaniment of music. π www.stonemountainpark.com

Stone Mountain offers a variety of activities in addition to hiking.

Fox Theatre Still want to party out the night? The Fox Theatre features stars on its stage and stars on its realistic sky ceiling—complete with moving clouds. The building exemplifies 1920s theater palaces, with architectural influences from Egypt and the Middle East. The theater hosts organ concerts, musicals (Les Misérables in April), movie festivals, and even masquerade balls. π www.foxtheatre.org From the seats of the Fox Theatre, you can enjoy musicals, concerts, and movies.

22 >> spring 2012

—Stephanie Smith

Photos by James Duckworth (top left); Kevin C. Rose/Atlanta Stock Photos (top and bottom right); Gail Des Jardin (bottom left)

The Visitors’ Atrium at the World of Coca-Cola museum is decorated with its own pop-inspired art.

away for a weekend

Albuquerque The Right Turn

photo by Adam bangerter

n his travels, Bugs Bunny regularly wound up going a direction opposite from what he intended, arriving in such diverse places as the Himalayas or Scotland. The reason for these mixed-up and mistaken destinations? He “shoulda taken that left toin at Albukoikee.” Albuquerque, New Mexico, settled in 1706, boasts rich history and tradition, making it a great place for a weekend getaway. Visit Albuquerque this spring and discover for yourself why Bugs Bunny should have just stayed there—at least for a weekend. Here are three locations offering a variety of activities that will give you an authentic New Mexican experience.

Experience: Indian Pueblo Cultural Center The goal of the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center is to help keep the pueblo culture alive. The Center houses a museum of information about the 19 remaining pueblos in New Mexico. The Pueblo House, an interactive part of the museum, gives visitors a glimpse of pueblo culture and explains rules of etiquette for guests to follow while visiting the pueblos. Every spring, the Center hosts an American Indian week called Pueblo Days, full of lots of different activities and information. The Center is located at 2401 12th St. NW Albuquerque. π www.indianpueblo.org

The east side of Albuquerque is bordered by the Sandia Mountains. The name, which comes from the Spanish word sandia (watermelon), refers to the color of sunsets that play off the mountains in the evening. Sandia Peak offers a spectacular view of Albuquerque and the Rio Grande Valley. The peak can be reached through a variety of ways: Tram: The Sandia Peak Tramway, the longest passenger tramway in the world, traverses a distance of 2.7 miles. Cost is $20 per adult. Car: A paved road provides a beautiful drive that follows historic US Route 66 and curves up the back of the mountain. You can bring a picnic and eat at one of the observation stations along the way. Hikes: There are paths all over the face of the mountain. You can traverse the length of the mountain or hike to the peak. Keep your eyes open for mule deer, golden eagles, and other wildlife.

Eat: El Pinto

photography courtesy of El pinto restaurant, except as noted

Explore: Sandia Mountains

Situated in the North Valley of Albuquerque is El Pinto, a worldfamous restaurant that offers an authentic taste of New Mexican cuisine. Their salsa is so exceptional that customers requested it be bottled and sold. In the year 2000, El Pinto started selling El Pinto Salsa so people throughout the country could enjoy it.

π www.sandiapeak.com

—Lauren Bangerter

For other ideas visit π www.itsatrip.org π www.cabq.gov π www.albuquerqueoldtown.com Top: The Sandia Mountains. From left: El Pinto’s Green Chile Chicken Stew, El Pinto restaurant, and El Pinto Chile Con Queso.

π www.elpinto.com

This spring, plan your weekend around these events: March 13–20 March 15, 17 March 16 April 9

Albuquerque Restaurant Week 2012 NCAA Men’s Basketball Championship, rounds 2 and 3 Balloon Museum Spring Break Family Day Founder’s Day Fiesta

April 23 April 28–30 May 1 May 1 May 8

Earth Day at ABQ BioPark Gathering of Nations Orchid Show at the Botanical Garden Run for the Zoo Mother’s Day at ABQ BioPark Zoo

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The Layers of York

itting on layers of history dating back to the Neolithic groups that first settled the area, England’s city of York provides visitors with a myriad of activities and sites from ancient to modern. York was officially established by the Romans in AD 71 and has since been host to Angles, Normans, and royal lines of Stuart and Tudor. Today, the city’s center is still completely enclosed by the Bar Walls and offers Roman ruins, the largest Gothic cathedral in Northern England, quaint medieval streets, numerous museums, a racetrack, a theatre, a railway station, and an ample shopping district. York is located just a short drive from other exciting cultural sites, making it the perfect weeklong getaway. The City Center

chapter house, and Undercroft, which shows the remains of the buildings that existed on the site before the minster was built. Many of York’s medieval streets are too narrow for automotive traffic, making York an excellent city to explore on foot. Get lost in the city by wandering York’s vast shopping district, which provides everything from outdoor markets to favorite British chains such as Marks & Spencer and Cath Kidston. 24 >> spring 2012

On your walk, be sure to stop by the Shambles, a medieval street where the houses are so close together that people hanging out the windows of the buildings on either side of the street could touch hands. If you are interested in a history lesson that is a little less conventional, be sure to try one of the city’s ghost tours that take place each night. As a medieval city, York is steeped in legend and lore. Whether you are looking for some

photography by lindsay brown

The city center is a great place to begin your week. You can get your bearings by walking the Bar Walls, named for the four bars or gates that punctuate the walls and surround the city center. The original walls were constructed around AD 71, and parts of this original foundation can still be found in some of the existing walls around the city. Next you will want to be sure to visit York Minster, seat of the Archbishop of York. Located in the center of the inner city, the site of York Minster has hosted a church or cathedral since AD 627. Be sure to see the intricate choir screen,

away for a week history off the beaten path or a bit of a nighttime thrill, be sure to see this ancient city after the sun goes down.

Outside the City Center If you want to stretch your legs and get outside the city, there are several great sites within an hour or two of York that you can visit to round out your cultural week. If you are looking for more modern entertainment, just outside the city center you can catch some hoof-pounding action at the York Racecourse. The Dante Festival, which promises three superb days of horse racing, will take place May 16–18, and tickets can be purchased for as little as £5 (US$8). If you are seeking culture as well as great outdoors, spring is the perfect time to take a trip to Studley Royal Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is home to the picturesque ruins of Fountains Abbey and is located less than an hour from York. The abbey, founded in 1132, was partially destroyed in 1539 during Henry VIII’s dissolution of the monasteries. However, the ruins, set against the vibrant green grass of the park, may be just as beautiful today as the abbey was when it was first built. After exploring the ruins, you can wander the 800-acre park to see the dozens of other wonders it has to offer, including trails, lakes, bridges, halls, churches, and the famous water garden.

Visit www.fountainsabbey.com to find events going on at the park during your visit. If you are feeling more adventurous, make the hour and a half trip to the city of Durham, home to Durham Cathedral, another World Heritage Site. The cathedral contains the tombs of St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede. If you take the guided tour, you can learn about the exciting history of each, including the contributions they made during their lifetimes and legends surrounding their deaths. If you are an avid pop-culture muggle, Durham Cathedral holds a further claim on your interest: it was featured as Hogwarts (with digitally added spires) in the Harry Potter films and was a filming location for the first movie. Whether you are looking for ancient culture, modern entertainment, or a mix of both, the many layers of York will surprise and delight you each day of your weeklong stay in the city and in its surrounding areas. —Lindsay Brown

Top right: A typical street in York’s city center showcases a variety of architecture. Bottom right: The ruins of Fountains Abbey at Studley Royal Park are the largest abbey ruins in the country. Bottom left: Durham Cathedral is home to the tombs of St. Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede. Previous page, top: York Minster is the seat of the Archbishop of York. Center: The Shambles, York’s most iconic street, is home to several tea houses. Bottom: Clifford’s Tower, overlooking the River Foss, was once the keep of the medieval castle built by the Normans.

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away for a week

26 >> spring 2012

Berlin is a big city with a big history, and it may be overwhelming to know where to start exploring. Much of Berlin’s history is preserved and conveyed through the city’s architecture, which makes an architectural tour the perfect way to experience its culture. Here are some places you don’t want to miss this spring.

Brandenburg Gate

1791: Neo-classic The Brandenburg Gate, which was originally a city entrance that faced Brandenburg, has become an icon for present-day Berlin. It is the only surviving gate of the original 18 that were a part of the wall used to regulate trade. Despite its overpowering The Brandenburg Gate, badly damaged during World War II, was restored in a joint effort by East and West Germany after the war. presence, the gate was first commissioned by Friedrich Wilhelm II to represent peace. It is designed after the Propylaea (the gate to the Acropolis in Athens, Greece) and maintains many features of Greek architecture with its Doric columns and elaborate frieze. As you approach the gate, you’ll notice it has five entrances. In 1791, the middle entrance was reserved only for the king when he would enter and leave the city. The other four were available for all other members of the city—the outer two for pedestrians and the inner two for horses and carriages. In 1961, the Berlin Wall was erected and the Brandenburg Gate was closed “indefinitely” to all travelers. When the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, the Brandenburg Gate became a sign of peace and the reunification of East and West Berlin. Today the gate is a bustling area of the city where a myriad of street performers and tourists come to see, explore, and remember.

Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe

2004: Contemporary, Fascist If you don’t have the time or ability to visit one of the internment photo by sterling mason camps of the Holocaust, make sure Stories of victims can be found in the visitors’ center underneath you take time to visit the Memorial the 2,711 slabs of the memorial. to the Murdered Jews of Europe. The memorial was promoted by German journalist Lea Rosh to remember the victims of the Holocaust. Controversial in both architecture and location, this piece of contemporary architecture, designed by Peter Eisenman, is placed smack-dab in the middle of tourist Berlin for patrons to visit, explore, and reflect. In a sea of coffin-like slabs of cement, visitors can get lost as the ground descends and the slabs rise above their heads. Each individual slab or stela has a unique shape and size. Although considered contemporary architecture, the sharp edges and gray color of the memorial remind visitors of Nazi architecture.

photography by Michael Olsen, except as noted

B E R L I N

An Architectural Tour

Berlin Study Abroad

Berlin Cathedral

After ascending 270 steps along the outer walkway of the dome, visitors get an allencompassing view of the city center of Berlin.

1905: Historicist-Baroque The Berlin Cathedral is one of the most prominent churches in Berlin. Plans for this cathedral began in 1825 by Karl Friedrich Schinkel, and it was finally consecrated on February 27, 1905. The dome rises 375 feet in the air. If the cathedral were built today, it would cost 180 million euros. Built in a Baroque style, the Berlin Cathedral is almost “too Baroque for Baroque.” When you enter the cathedral, your senses are assaulted with filigree and elaborate decorations. Everything is decorated with swoops and swirls that were common in the Baroque period. This overload of decorative elements was considered a form of praise and honor. Don’t miss the organ with its 113 stops and more than 7,000 pipes. After the organ was damaged during the bombing of the cathedral during World War II, it was restored to its original glory. Visitors today can again enjoy the music of this fantastic organ.

Other Locations

—Maggie Jensen

Pergamonmuseum

(Pergamon Museum) 1930: Classical Antiquity This museum contains a restoration of the Pergamon Altar as well as other pieces of classical architecture from Greece, Rome, Asyria, and the Middle East.

Reichstag

(Seat of the German Parliament) 1992: Contemporary Renovated many times since its original construction in 1884, the Reichstag contains elements from various types of architecture.

Fernsehturm

(Berlin Television Tower) 1969: Modernist Built by the Socialist Unity Party to show the German Democratic Republic’s strength, the Fernsehturm is one of Berlin’s most wellknown landmarks.

Explore and study in Europe’s most intense city: berlin.byu.edu

Berlin

away for a while

New Caledonia Explore, Dream, Discover

The islands of New Caledonia offer visitors the fun of a modern tropical vacation along with the chance to experience ancient tribal culture and tradition. These islands combine warm breezes, white sand, turquoise lagoons, and Melanesian culture with French sophistication. In true Stowaway fashion, here are ways you can explore, dream, and discover several islands in the New Caledonia archipelago.

Grande Terre

Grande Terre is the cigar-shaped main island of New Caledonia that became a French colony in 1853. The capital city of Noumea, a cultural melting pot, has come to be known as the “Paris of the Pacific.”

Explore the L’aquarium des lagons (Aquarium of the Lagoon). The aquarium contains various creatures and plant life that live in the lagoon, including phosphorescent corals, wrasses, and sharks. π www.aquarium.nc

Dream in the tropical foliage. Visitors can hike lush, forested mountains to reach beautiful waterfalls at Blue River Provincial Park or Madeleine Falls. As the sun goes down on the rolling plains, the sky turns purple with the dusk— and you can take in the fresh vegetation and wide open spaces. Discover the diverse culture in Noumea. Visit the Tjibaou Cultural Center, which promotes and preserves the native culture of the Kanak people, the Melanesian group that is indigenous to New Caledonia. π www.adck.nc

Isle of the Pines

The Isle of the Pines is part of a set of islands south of Grande Terre. This island is surrounded by the New Caledonia Barrier Reef—the second largest coral reef in the world, second only to the Great Barrier Reef of Australia. π en.visitnewcaledonia.com

Explore the breathtaking beauty. Listed by UNESCO—United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization—as a World Heritage Site, the lagoon around the island has been described as being so blue that it “almost hurts the eyes.”

Dream in a relaxed, secluded environment. The Isle of the Pines is a 20-minute flight from Noumea. Locals live in a relaxed way, sharing a wise philosophy: “Why measure the time? It will never end.” Discover yourself. The tranquil beauty of the Isle of the Pines offers the perfect backdrop for quiet moments of self-reflection and rejuvenation.

28 >> spring 2012

Photo by Andrew Livingston

New Caledonia’s beautiful beaches on more than 30 islands give visitors a chance to watch the sun rise or set over the ocean horizon.

Loyalty Islands The three main Loyalty Islands, Lifou, Mare, and Ouvea, are located just east of Grande Terre.

Explore the lagoon firsthand. Each of these islands offers various activities: big game fishing, scuba diving, and kayaking. π www.loyalty-islands.com

Dream about cuisine. Bougna, a traditional dish of the Loyalty Islands, consists of fish, prawns, lobsters, coconut milk, banana leaves, yams, and sweet potatoes—and don’t forget the snails and pigeons or the candlenut worms that add a hazelnut flavor. If you have more traditional, conservative tastes, don’t worry: Melanesians also eat a lot of chicken and rice-based meals.

Photography by William Lane, except bottom right; photo by richard taylor

Discover traditional Melanesian culture. The Melanesians, also known as the Kanaks, are extremely friendly and hospitable, and they maintain a notably laid-back lifestyle. You can get a taste of the Melanesian lifestyle by staying in a gÎte, a small hotel or resort that offers various levels of accommodations. π www.rocket-guide-newcaledonia.com

—Kathy Hopkinson Top left: People of New Caledonia, especially the native Melanesians, are very friendly and almost always have a story to tell. Top right: Coastlines on the different islands offer a variety of beautiful beach experiences. Far left: The Kanak people use totems as part of their religious worship. Left: While walking on Kuto Beach, Isle of the Pines, keep an eye open for exotic wildlife like this green lizard.

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Features Celebrating 100 years of friendship >> F ind out why

the National Cherry Blossom Festival is the best way to celebrate friendship this spring. page 32

Boston—your way >> Discover all that “The Hub of the Universe” offers visitors—from food to sports. page 36

equitrekking: See the World from the saddle >>

Learn the ins and outs of seeing the world on horseback, and find out how one woman has made it her career. page 42

Food Trucks: A Taste for travel >> Take a look at a

popular new way to get great gourmet food on the street corner. page 48

Photo By Lillian Iversen

Every spring, visitors of Tidal Basin can enjoy Japan’s gift to the United States as the cherry blossoms burst into color.

page 32

32â&#x20AC;&#x201A; >> spring 2012

Goodwill between Japan and the United States blossoms every spring in Washington, DC. By Ashley Hasna

very spring, Washington, DC, wakes from its wintertime slumber in dazzling shades of pink and white bursting from the blossoms of thousands of cherry trees. Millions of visitors flock to the nation’s capital to admire the blossoms and celebrate spring with the National Cherry Blossom Festival. But the attraction is more than just beautiful flowers. Over the 100 years since their planting, these cherry trees have come to symbolize friendship, hope, and—in true spring fashion—renewal.

Top: The best times to view the blossoms are at dawn or dusk. Far left: Lady Bird Johnson accepted an additional gift of 3,800 more cherry blossom trees in 1965, which were planted around the Washington Monument. Left: The Jefferson Memorial is one of several monuments that can be seen while viewing the blossoms around Tidal Basin. Photography by ron blunt (top, far left) and david brown (left)

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The first trees were planted by First Lady Helen Herron Taft and Vicountess Chinda in 1912.

34 >> spring 2012

These fragile flowers, also known as sakura blossoms, are highly symbolic because of their short but recurring life. They represent extreme beauty and a quick death.

The friendship this gift symbolized was soon tested. During the Department of Agriculture’s inspection, the trees were found to be infested with insects and infected with disease; as a safety precaution, they were all burned. True to the spirit of friendship, however, the two countries didn’t get caught up in political battles of hurt feelings. Dr. Takamine and the mayor of Tokyo replaced the trees. Not only did they pay for the replacements themselves, but they also increased the number of trees from 2,000 to 3,000. On March 26, 1912, more than 12 varieties of cherry trees arrived in Washington, DC. The next day, First Lady Helen Herron Taft and Viscountess Chinda, the wife of the Japanese Ambassador, planted the first two cherry trees, marking the first year of the Cherry Blossom Festival. Since then, the festival has continued to foster cultural unity. “The gift of trees was one of friendship and cross-cultural understanding,” explains Piacente, “and the festival absolutely symbolizes that today.” The story of the cherry trees is retold every year during the festival’s opening ceremony. Both traditional and contemporary performances have been used to explain how the festival grew from that first day with only a handful of officials present to a two-week celebration with more than a million visitors. Through it all, the focus is on Japan. “Japan is really at the heart of the festival,” says Piacente. This year, the Sakura Matsuri—the largest Japanese street festival in the world—will take place on April 14 as part of the Cherry Blossom Festival. Food, art, merchandise, and entertainment from Japan will be exhibited. But the story of renewal and friendship didn’t end with the gift of 1912. In 1982, a flood destroyed a large portion of Japan’s cherry trees. In response, the United States was able to send Japan 800 cuttings from Tidal Basin to help replace the trees.

photography by ron blunt (left and top)

“The gift of trees and springtime brings to mind rebirth and renewal,” explains Danielle Piacente, Communications Manager of the National Cherry Blossom Festival, “and people celebrate and come together over them.” But what are they celebrating exactly? How come the National Cherry Blossom Festival is known as the “greatest springtime celebration”? The quick answer is that the trees are beautiful. But the history goes deeper than that. In 1885, Eliza Scidmore—an American writer, photographer, and geographer—visited Japan and became enamored of the cherry trees there. Upon returning to DC, she proposed to every new superintendent of the Office of Public Buildings who came into office that cherry trees should be planted along the barren Potomac waterfront. Her requests went unanswered for 24 years. Finally in 1909, opportunity knocked. Dr. David Fairchild, a US Department of Agriculture official, began promoting the success of his own cherry trees in the Chevy Chase area. With this proof in hand, Eliza was able to write a letter to the First Lady, Helen Herron Taft. Eliza’s idea was to raise the funding herself to purchase additional trees for the area. The First Lady listened. Through efforts of Dr. Fairchild, Eliza, and the First Lady, the United Stated planned to pay Japan for the trees. However, a Japanese chemist, Dr. Takamine, had a greater vision in mind. Dr. Takamine offered to donate 2,000 cherry trees from Tokyo to the United States as a symbol of friendship. The trees arrived on January 6, 1910.

100th National Cherry Blossom Festival March 20–April 27, 2012 Because this year is the 100th anniversary of the festival, organizers are pulling out all the stops. In a regular year, the festival would last for 16 days, but this year’s celebrations will continue for five weeks. Besides providing an opportunity to stroll among the trees and enjoy their beauty, here are some additional events: March 24–25: Family Days presented with the National Building Museum. This year, the opening ceremonies for the festival are expanded to two days. This free event features hands-on activities, demonstrations, and performances celebrating Japanese art and design. March 25: National Cherry Blossom Festival Opening Ceremony. Pre-show starts at 4:00 pm. It is free, but advanced ticketing is required. March 31: Blossom Kite Festival. This free event is located on the Washington Monument grounds—anyone and everyone can come fly kites. Make your own kite or watch a kite show. From 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. April 1–15: Free performances at Sylvan Theater, which is set at the base of the Washington Memorial. Bands from around the country and the world come to participate. From noon to 5:00 pm, Sundays through Thursdays; from noon to 6:00 pm, Fridays and Saturdays. April 7: Southwest Waterfront Fireworks Festival. Performances start at 1:00 pm and continue until the firework show at 8:30 pm. April 14: National Cherry Blossom Festival Parade. From 10:00 am to noon. Watch along the parade route: Constitution Avenue, NW, from 7th to 17th streets.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICK Eckert

This festival offers more than blossoms. It has something for everyone and includes additional events involving themed food, flying kites, and art demonstrations.

Years later, right before the 2011 Cherry Blossom Festival, Japan was hit by an earthquake and tsunami. “Since they gave us the gift of trees, it was really important to us to do all we could for the people of Japan in their time of need,” remembers Piacente. Relief efforts began immediately; in addition to online auctions and fundraising parties, another fundraising effort, “Stand with Japan,” brought people together— from the general public to Ambassdor Ichiro Fujisaki. All the donations from that event went to the American Red Cross and to the Japan Earthquake and Pacific Tsunami fund. As Piacente recalls, “We brought everyone together in the spirit of hope and rebuilding for the people of Japan. We wanted to let them know we were thinking of them.” The story of renewal and friendship had come full circle.

April 14: Sakura Matsuri Japanese Street Festival. From 11:00 am to 6:00 pm. $5 for visitors 13 years and older. Need help planning your trip? Download the National Cherry Blossom Festival app for free. ► www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org Visitors can watch the parade filled with floats, balloons, youth choirs, and dance teams.

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Your Way By Lauren Bangerter

The USS Constitution is the oldest commissioned warship afloat in the world.

What do Little Women, the Red Sox, and Paul Revere all have in common? Boston, Massachusetts. Since the early days of the United States, Boston has been a leader in establishing American culture. Living up to various nicknames—such as Beantown, the Hub of the Universe, the Cradle of Liberty, and the Athens of America—Boston offers something for everyone. This spring, experience Boston—your way. 36 >> spring 2012

Food Connoisseur Boston has long been known for its famous Tea Party when, instead of being consumed, tea was dumped into the harbor. Since then, food appreciation has grown, and many basic staples of American cuisine stem from this city. Here are a few restaurants to visit, along with some delicious recommendations.

1. Jasper White’s Summer Shack As is the case with numerous New England towns, Boston draws in many lobster-craving visitors. Jasper White’s Summer Shack, located at 50 Dalton Street, Back Bay, has been called the “Mecca for seafood lovers” and is a great place to get that craving satisfied. π www.summershackrestaurant.com/ Locations_Boston.asp

2. Historic Parker’s Restaurant In 1856, the restaurant at Parker’s Hotel hired a French chef who created a culinary masterpiece—the Boston Cream Pie. This cream-filled, chocolate-covered cake became Massachusetts’s official dessert in 1996. Sample this delicacy and enjoy a fine dining experience at Historic Parker’s Restaurant, located at 60 School Street. π www.omnihotels.com

3. Cheers—Where Everybody Knows Your Name Originally known as the Bull and Finch Pub, the pub was renamed after it was used as the basis for the famous sitcom. Located at 84 Beacon Street, the restaurant has a menu that offers a variety of burgers—some named after characters on the TV show. π www.cheersboston.com

Literature Lover The greater Boston area has been home to some of the best and brightest minds ever to have emerged in American literature, and it is dotted with small neighborhood libraries.

1. Boston Public Library The Boston Public Library (BPL), founded in 1848, was the first large free municipal library in the United States. When it opened, it housed 16 thousand volumes. Today the BPL has more than 33 million items in its collection and maintains 27 neighborhood branches. The BPL is located at 700 Boylston Street. π www.bpl.org

2. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery Although not the Sleepy Hollow of Washington Irving fame, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery houses the remains of the Alcott, Hawthorne, Emerson, Thoreau, and Lothrop families on what is called Author’s Ridge. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is a must-see stop on any literary pilgrimage. It is located on Bedford Street in Concord, just outside of Boston. π www.concordma.gov/pages/concordma_ cemetery/sleepy

3. Make Way for Ducklings Statue

photo by rene schwietzke

Photography by Lauren BAngerter, except as noted

The entrance to the original Cheers pub opens toward Beacon Street.

4. Faneuil Hall

5. Mike’s Pastry

Since 1742, Faneuil Hall has served as the hub of activity in Boston, hosting political speeches, concerts, and— most importantly—food. This urban marketplace houses 17 restaurants and pubs located in the center of the city. While here, make sure to try some award-winning Boston Baked Beans at Durgin-Park.

Located at 300 Hanover Street in Boston’s North End Little Italy, Mike’s Pastry has entertained many celebrities and world leaders. Offering any bakery treat a customer could wish for, Mike’s Pastry has become known as a “North End Tradition.”

π www.faneuilhallboston.org π www.durgin-park.com

π www.mikespastry.com

Robert McCloskey’s classic Caldecott Award-winning children’s book inspired this statue in the entrance of the Public Gardens. Having stopped traffic at the corner of Charles and Beacon streets, Mrs. Mallard and her eight ducklings march their way into the park and the pond where they live happily ever after, being fed peanuts by the tourists. π www.schon.com/public/ducklingsboston.php

6. Union Oyster House Boston Clam Chowder has been a staple in Boston cuisine since 1836 and is still served in America’s oldest operating restaurant, the Union Oyster House, located at 41 Union Street. π www.unionoysterhouse.com Jack, Kack, Lack, Mack, and Nack Mallard make their way to the pond.

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3. Red Auerbach Statue and Larry Bird Shoes

Emerson’s House, Orchard House, and The Wayside are located along the same street.

4. Authors’ Homes Along Lexington Road in Concord are three homes where several important American authors lived. Visitors are welcome to all three. Orchard House was home to transcendentalist and teacher Bronson Alcott and his family, including his daughter Louisa May Alcott, author of Little Women; the set of the 1994 movie version of Little Women was based on this house. The Wayside, a home that became the first national park with literary associations, housed three famous literary families: the Alcotts (who later moved to the Orchard House), the Hawthornes (including Nathanial Hawthorne, author of The Scarlett Letter and The House of Seven Gables), and the Lothrops (Harriett M. Lothrop, author of The Little Peppers, wrote under the pen name of Margaret Sidney). Just across the street and down the road from the Orchard House is the Ralph Waldo Emerson house. π www.louisamayalcott.org π www.nps.gov/nr/travel/pwwmh/ma47.htm π www.concord.patch.com/articles/the-ralph-waldo-emerson-house

5. Walden Pond

6. The Old Manse

Walden Pond is the site of the famous experiment of transcendentalist Henry David Thoreau. It is the spot where he went when he “wished to live deliberately.” Today, Walden Pond is open for swimmers, fishers, and nature enthusiasts. The nature paths that surround the pond lead the wanderer to the historic site of Thoreau’s cabin.

Alternately the home of Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry David Thoreau, and Nathanial Hawthorne, the Old Manse has been the center for many deep philosophical discussions. You will find it at 269 Monument Street. Just out the back door, you can see the Concord North Bridge (see Battle Road in the History Buff section of this article).

π www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/walden

π www.thetrustees.org/places-to-visit/ greater-boston/old-manse.html

Sports Enthusiast Bostonians have always been sports fans. From winning the first World Series in 1903 to securing the Stanley Cup in 2011, Boston sports teams have excelled in every way. For the sports fan inside of you, here are some places to visit that celebrate the wonderful world of sports.

1. TD Garden

2. Candlepin Bowling

Located at 100 Legends Way, TD Garden is the home arena of both the Boston Celtics and the Boston Bruins. Since its original opening in 1995, TD Garden has undergone several renovations and name changes and now covers 755,000 square feet with a maximum seating capacity of 19,580 people. Located within TD Garden is the Boston Sports Museum, which celebrates the varied athletic achievements in Boston over the years.

Candlepin Bowling was invented in Massachusetts in 1880—some say in Boston itself. Candlepin bowling is different from 10-pin bowling: the ball is smaller and has no holes, the player gets three balls per frame, and the downed pins are not cleared away after each turn. To try out the sport, visit Lanes & Games at 195 Concord Turnpike in Cambridge.

π www.sportsmuseum.org π www.tdgarden.com

38 >> spring 2012

π www.bowlcandlepin.com/ Massachusetts.htm

Red Auerbach was the coach of the Boston Celtics from 1950 to 1966. He was a pioneer of modern basketball and was influential in breaking down color barriers in the NBA. Larry Bird was an NBA basketball player who played for the Boston Celtics. A statue of Red Auerbach is located in Faneuil Hall. A pair of Larry Bird’s large shoes, which have been bronzed, rest on a nearby plaque. You can take a picture with Auerbach and compare your shoe size with Larry Bird’s. π www.boston.com/travel/boston/must_ sees_1

4. Nickerson Field Now owned by Boston University, Nickerson Field was once the field of the historic Boston Braves baseball team and the Boston Patriots football team. Other names it has gone by are Braves Field, National League Park, and Boston University Field. Today it is named after William E. Nickerson, who donated the field to the university. π www.goterriers.com

5. Fenway Park Fenway Park, home to the Boston Red Sox, is the oldest Major League Baseball stadium currently in use. The park is famous for the Green Monster, a green fence along left field that is a daunting obstacle for any would-be home run hitter to overcome. The park has been in use since 1912 and accommodates around 37,500 fans. π http://boston.redsox.mlb.com

The Boston Red Sox winning a game at Fenway Park.

6. Boston Marathon Memorial Situated in Copley Square, this memorial commemorates 100 years of the Boston Marathon. The world’s oldest annual marathon, the Boston Marathon is run annually on Patriots Day and ends near this memorial. The memorial includes a medallion inscribed with the names of the marathon’s previous winners. π www.publicartboston.com π www.baa.org

History Buff The third Monday in April is known as Patriot’s Day, commemorating the beginnings of the American Revolution. Boston celebrates in various ways during this time, from detailed reenactments to the Boston Marathon, making spring the best time to visit Boston.

1. Harvard University, 1636 The oldest institution for higher education in the United States, Harvard was established in 1636 and now enrolls around 21,000 students. While on campus you can cheer for the sports teams, get a tour, or visit the Museum of Natural History—the most visited attraction at Harvard. π www.harvard.edu

2. Adams National Historical Park, 1735 This park features the birthplace and home of John Adams—a founding father and the second President of the United States. Located on 135 Adams Street in Quincy, the park is a little south of Boston. Here you can learn about the four generations of an American dynasty as you visit 13 acres and 11 buildings that house an amazing collection of approximately 100,000 historical treasures. π www.nps.gov/adam

3. Boston Tea Party, December 16, 1773

The Old North Church is where the “two if by sea” signal lights were hung to inform Paul Revere of the British troop movement.

4. Freedom Trail, 1775

The Old North Bridge is located in Concord.

5. Battle Road, April 19, 1775 Following the road from Boston to Concord—taken by the British on a mission to commandeer weapons gathered by revolutionists—is Battle Road, which offers detailed information about the events that began the American Revolution. Battle Road, part of the Minute Man National Park, passes through many places, such as the Lexington Battle Green and the Concord Old North Bridge (where the famous “shot heard ’round the world” was fired on April 19, 1775). Reenactments of this battle take place every year on Patriot’s Day. π www.battleroad.org

6. 54th Regiment Memorial, 1863–1865 The 54th Regiment Memorial is a memorial to the first official black volunteer infantry regiment led by Robert Gould Shaw during the Civil War. The memorial is just one stop along the Black Heritage Trail of Boston, which also highlights homes, churches, and schools that promoted emancipation efforts. The memorial is located on Beacon Street. π www.nps.gov/boaf

The actual location of the Boston Tea Party is disputed, but there is a memorial marker of the event on the corner of Congress and Purchase streets. Just up Congress Street is the new Boston Tea Party Ships & Museum, which commemorates the event and gives valuable historical information regarding the events that led up to the tea party. π www.boston-tea-party.org π www.bostonteapartyship.com

The Freedom Trail is a self-guided tour following a red line that winds through Boston, highlighting 17 historic landmarks. Some of these include Park Street Church, site of the first abolitionist meeting; the site of the Boston Massacre; the Paul Revere House; the Old North Church; the Bunker Hill Monument; and the USS Constitution, aka Old Ironsides. Celebrate the spirit of freedom by walking the Freedom Trail. π www.thefreedomtrail.org These red bricks mark the Freedom Trail.

www.stowawaymag.com << 39

Finding your way in Harvard University

Map of Boston, Massachusetts

1. Jasper White’s Summer Shack 2. Historic Parker’s Restaurant 3. Cheers 4. Faneuil Hall 5. Mike’s Pastry 6. Union Oyster House

Fenway Park

6 54th Regiment Memorial

Cheers

Make Way for Ducklings statue

Nickerson Field

40 >> spring 2012

TD Garden

Boston Public Library

Freedom Trail

Union Oyster House

Mike’s Pastry

Faneuil Hall

Red Auerbach and Larry Bird

Boston Tea Party

Historic Parker’s Restaurant

Boston Marathon Memorial

Jasper White’s Summer Shack

1. Boston Public Library 2. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery 3. Make Way for Ducklings Statue 4. Authors’ homes 5. Walden Pond 6. The Old Manse

1. TD Garden 2. Candlepin Bowling 3. Red Auerbach and Larry Bird 4. Nickerson Field 5. Fenway Park 6. Boston Marathon Memorial

Map of Concord, Massachusetts, located 25 miles northwest of Boston

Battle Road

The Old Manse

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

Authors’ homes

Other Fun Food Facts America’s Test Kitchen is headquartered in Boston. As the most-watched cooking show in America, America’s Test Kitchen keeps a full kitchen with 53 stove-top burners, 14 refrigerators, 8 ovens, and 3 dishwashers. ► www.americastestkitchen.com Ephraim Wales Bull, a native Bostonian born in 1806, perfected the Concord Grape used in Welch’s Grape Juice. Find an original Concord Grape vine in the center of town in Concord. ► www.nationalgrape.com/02b_ccd.shtml The Original Boston Baked Beans are a candycoated peanut produced by the Pan Ferrara Candy Company. ► www.ferrarapan.com

Other People with Literary Ties to Boston • Katherine Lee Bates, author of the lyrics to “America the Beautiful”

to Boston 

• E. E. Cummings, poet

Walden Pond

• Emily Dickinson, poet • Theodor Seuss Geisel, aka Dr. Seuss, author

Map of Quincy, Massachusetts, located 12 miles south of Boston

• Peter Laird, author of The Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles • Edgar Allan Poe, author

to Boston  2

Candlepin Bowling

Boston Sports Teams • Boston Blazers (lacrosse) • Boston Breakers (soccer) • Boston Bruins (hockey)

Adams NHP

• Boston Cannons (lacrosse) • Boston Celtics (basketball) • Boston Lobsters (tennis) • Boston Patriots—now known as the New England Patriots (football) • Boston Red Sox (baseball)

1. Harvard University 2. Adams National Historic Park 3. Boston Tea Party 4. Freedom Trail 5. Battle Road 6. 54th Regiment Memorial

For more places to see and things to do: π www.bostonusa.com π www.cityofboston.gov

www.stowawaymag.com << 41

Equitrekking See the World from the Saddle By Lindsay Brown

Photography by Chip Ward

Darley Newman’s travel show

gives a unique view of the world .

42 >> spring 2012

“Hey, lady, you get around!” exclaimed the man next to her at passport control. Darley Newman looked down at her passport, filled to the brim with stamps, and laughed. That is kind of funny, she thought to herself, appreciating the man’s humor and taking a moment to acknowledge the fact herself. She has been around— all around the world. And if the man had asked whether the nature of her travels was business or pleasure, she would have had a hard time giving him an answer. “It’s a mix,” she would reply. “It doesn’t feel like a vacation, really. But it’s such rewarding work that Okavango Delta, Botswana

I wouldn’t really call it work either.”

Darley is the creator, writer, producer, and host of the Emmy Award-winning international travel show Equitrekking. In the show, Darley experiences premier equestrian vacations all over the world and shares the cultural experiences unique to each location with viewers in more than 65 countries worldwide—all from the back of a horse. Some job! Does she know how lucky she is? She certainly does. “It’s definitely work, but just being with these different people and riding these different horses is a blessing. It’s so unique.” Growing up in the hills of North Carolina, Darley discovered a passion that, at the tender age of seven, she could have never suspected would change the course of her life. It was at summer camp that she had her first experience riding horses, and she was hooked. “Once horseback riding gets into your system, it’s hard to get away from it. I guess I’ve kind of sought it throughout my life and made a career out of it.” Later, Darley studied abroad in both Spain and Italy, where she discovered a passion for travel and an enthusiasm for new places and faces. After graduating from college and working in broadcasting for several years, Darley came up with the idea for Equitrekking and created a website for it: www.equitrekking.com. Three years later in 2007, Darley aired her first episode of Equitrekking—a trip to Vermont exploring Green Mountain trails, driving Clydesdales, riding Icelandic horses, and visiting the University of Vermont’s Morgan Horse Farm. Since then, Equitrekking has aired more than 30 episodes, with several others in the works. The locations for Equitrekking episodes have become increasingly exotic since the first filming in Vermont. Among them are places throughout the United States as well as many overseas, including Ireland, Iceland, Costa Rica, Jordan, Turkey, and Botswana. Darley chooses all the locations herself.

Ring of Kerry, Ireland

44 >> spring 2012

Lost in the Lingo?

Dressage: From the French, meaning “the basic training of the horse,” it is a riding discipline commonly referred to as “horse ballet.” Equitrekking: Traveling the world on horseback. Half Chaps: English riding equipment made of leather or suede that is fitted around the rider’s calf and provides better grip in the saddle. Hands: A unit of measurement equaling four inches and used to discuss horse height.

Seward, Alaska With locations scattered around the globe, how does she find all these sites to ride horses? Turns out that, just like any other profession, it’s all about the people you know. “I’ve met a lot of people who travel and ride just because they love it. So I get a lot of information from them,” she says. Darley also continues to expand her network with help from her viewers. “I talk to people on the phone, sometimes people I do not even know, just because they’ve written us about a location and I want to hear that firsthand information.” Firsthand information is key for Darley when it comes to exotic horseback riding vacations. “If you are going to travel and ride somewhere, you want to make sure you’re going to a good place, so we try to share that information with other people.” If viewers find a great place to ride that Darley has not yet had a chance to visit, she often asks them to write about their experiences for publication on the Equitrekking website so other viewers and vacation-seekers can benefit from their advice. Finding locations for great horseback riding vacations is only the first mountain to tackle for Darley’s small Equitrekking film crew, which usually consists of about four people. Next, they have to get themselves to the place—with all of their luggage and filming equipment. “The show looks great, and we want it to be the best quality possible,” explains Darley, “so we definitely have to bring some equipment, but we have to pare it down.” The more exotic the location is, the more creative the crew has to be in their packing.

Okavango Delta, Botswana

For the episode in Botswana, the crew had to take several small charter flights to get to the destination. As a result, they were each limited to 44 pounds of baggage, all of which had to be packed in a soft duffle bag—not exactly ideal for film equipment. But necessity is the mother of invention, and this staff is nothing if not creative. “We did a pack trip in Banff National Park, and we zeroed it down to the least amount of stuff we needed for X amount of days. So we figured out the electricity and how long we could go without power and brought backup batteries and chargers.” With lots of planning and ingenuity, they have been able to get high-definition footage of some of the world’s most exotic locations, many of which are accessible only by horseback. Once Darley and her staff have finally gotten themselves and their equipment to a new filming location, they don’t waste any time getting started. “Sometimes we are scouting stuff when we get off the plane,” says Darley. When the crew arrived in Turkey after two long flights, they immediately set off scouting the routes they would be filming the following day. Those who have traveled overseas know how difficult it can be to adjust to a new time zone after spending the night or even longer on a plane. As a woman who travels between 13 to 15 weeks a year and has to hit the ground running, does Darley have any great tips for beating jet lag? “Um, you know . . . not really!” she laughs. “I try to sleep on the plane for one, which can be difficult.” And thankfully, the body’s natural response to excitement and stress makes up for the rest. “When you go somewhere new, it’s always exciting, so I find that the adrenaline gets you through the first day or two at least, and by that time, you’ve caught up with the time difference.” By now, Darley has become very good at adapting to new situations—an asset that is essential to the avid

traveler. Each episode brings new places, new people, and most importantly, new horses. According to www.equitrekking.com, Darley has ridden more than 120 different horses since the first show in 2007. But if you asked Darley yourself, she would tell you she’s ridden far more than that. “I’ve gotten so much better about reading horses,” she admits. Anyone with an understanding of horses will tell you that each one is very different and comes with its own set of quirks, which can make it particularly challenging to just hop on and make the riding look perfect for the camera. Before hitting the trails to film, Darley makes a point to ask the horse’s owners if there is anything special about the animal that she should know. Still, that doesn’t always guarantee a surprise-free ride. “In Quebec,” she explains, “I had a horse that laid down on the beach when I was riding. Luckily I was able to just step off, but the lady who was with me said, ‘Oh man, I thought he had stopped that!’” In addition to riding scores of individual horses, Darley has also learned about many different breeds of horses and types of riding styles. Horseback riding around the world gives the traveler a truly inside look at different cultures, peoples, and customs. “The horses really do show you a lot about the environment and the culture and the history,” claims Darley. Each area she visits has a breed and a riding style that is unique to the local culture. In Andalucia, Spain, Darley got a lesson in classical dressage on the impressive Andalusian horse. In Iceland, Darley discovered a love for the sturdiness of Icelandic horses. In the Wadi Rum of Jordan, she was fittingly paired with an Arabian horse and even wrapped her head like her Bedouin guides. “A lot of times, people assume that I am an expert rider. But when you’re riding in different styles, you can’t be an expert in all of them!” she explains. www.stowawaymag.com << 45

Wadi Rum, Jordan

Antelope Island, Utah

Darley always tries her best to fit in and enjoy the ride, and sometimes that requires a new outfit. For her trip to Botswana, she knew that she would be riding through water in the delta and encountering lots of wildlife, so she bought some all-terrain boots and a new pair of neutral-colored all-terrain half chaps. To break in her new half chaps, Darley enlisted the help of her husband, who was kind enough to wear them around his slightly larger calves in order to stretch and soften them. While Darley has her own collection of riding equipment, she sometimes borrows from the locals to save money and luggage space. “A lot of times I’ll ask someone where I’m going in advance, ‘Do you have any chaps I can borrow?’” she explains. But that cowboy hat you see her wear in several episodes is Darley’s very own. “I bought it in Arizona. It’s been an episode favorite.”

Maui, Hawaii 46 >> spring 2012

Horseback riding is not the only adventure Darley undertakes in the filming process. In an attempt to fully experience the native culture, she is also busy hiking, whitewater rafting, climbing trees, and floating in the Dead Sea. And Darley is not the only one up for an adventure. The entire Equitrekking film crew is right alongside her, sharing in her adventures. “We’re an active bunch,” Darley explains. “We all climb trees and whitewater raft and hike in the canyon. With all our gear and equipment, it’s a real adventure show the way we film it.” New food is also part of the adventure of Equitrekking, and Darley is up for trying anything. But that doesn’t mean she has liked everything she’s tried. “In Turkey, I wasn’t a big fan of aaran, which is their

Doñana National Park, Spain

“The horses really do show you a lot about the environment and the culture and the history.” national drink.” Turns out that aaran is a mixture of milk, salt, and in Darley’s case, the local water, which she had been cautioned not to drink. “We had it homemade at this house we visited when we were riding,” she explains. “They invited us in and actually milked a cow and made it fresh!” After forcing down a few small sips, she generously offered her leftovers to one of the locals. New, exotic food tasting is also where her crew draws a line to how far they will follow her. “Our director of photography is sort of a picky eater,” Darley laughs, but she insists that he is slowly coming around. For Darley, each day is a new adventure, which is why she absolutely loves her job. She falls in love with each place she visits. “I never want to leave the different places that we go. Seriously,” Darley insists. “You get engrained in the destination when you’re there. It’s such an adventure that a lot of times I don’t want to come home.” Even when she is not traveling, Darley’s work still surprises her on a routine basis. When asked if there is anything about her job that she didn’t expect when she first came up with the Equitrekking idea, she replies, “Probably everything!” Though she makes it look easy on camera, she is constantly learning—which is what she loves most. “I’m always learning something new, and that’s what makes it so exciting,” she says. Without a love of learning and lots of perseverance, Equitrekking would not have been possible. “We didn’t have a huge production company or awesome connections, just an unusual idea and a passion for it. Honestly, if I had not been a persistent person, it never would have been possible.” At the end of the day, when Darley can see the finished product of what she and her team have created, all of the airplanes, bags packed, quirky horses, salty milk drinks, and hours spent stretching out new half chaps are completely worth the satisfaction of living her dream and making the most out of the adventure called life. “Life is short, and you are going to live only once,” Darley says, “so if there’s something that you want to do in your life, try to make it happen.” And that’s exactly what she is doing.

Horses across the World Andalusian: Known as the Pure Spanish Horse (PRE), the breed is native to the Iberian Peninsula and commonly used for classical dressage riding. Arabian: Developed in the desert climate of the Arabian Penninsula, the Arabian is distinctively fine-boned yet incredibly resilient. In addition to being one of the oldest breeds, it also has a distrinct bone structure, with one fewer vertebrae and one fewer pair of ribs than other breeds. Icelandic: The only breed of horse in Iceland, this small, yet sturdy horse is technically pony-sized, measuring between 13 and 14 hands. Quarter Horse: A favorite horse in the United States, the breed gained its name from being rumored to outrun any breed over a short distance, namely a quarter mile or less. Its compact body and agility make it a favorite choice of cowboys.

by Sarah Tomoser

LL AN CARRO Y BY JORD PH A R G PHOTO

s k c u r T d o

FoA Taste for travel

Far left: Find a sweet treat at Sweetery NYC, pictured here at Hudson and King Street in New York City. Left: Add a little spice to life with The Jalapeno NYC. Right: I go, you go, we all go to YOGO. Far right: Get a cup of joe to go at NYC Love Street Coffee. Bottom right: One of the most popular items on Sweetery NYC’s menu is coconut and nutella—a combo destined to make you smile for miles. Previous page: The Frying Dutchman takes a brief pause before opening for the dinner rush at 14th Street and Union Square.

orns honk and sirens wail. Men and women swiftly shuffle down the sidewalk. Without warning, the smells of pollution or police-horse droppings waft away, and the city now smells of sautéed vegetables, melted Gouda cheese, or grilled barbeque beef. The aroma is like a homing beacon, demanding attention. Scanning the buildings for a café or restaurant is fruitless. However, a slight glance in another direction solves the mystery—the divine aroma is coming from a gourmet food truck. Although the food truck concept dates as far back as the 1860s, the food offered on today’s 14-ton, moveable restaurant is nothing like the pork and beans of its chuck wagon predecessor. Gourmet food trucks have been steadily growing in popularity since 2010. During the lunch and dinner hours, there can be anywhere from 60 to 100 food trucks in Los Angeles, New York City, and Washington, DC—the top three food truck cities in the United States. Whether you are traveling or working in the city, time is of the essence. But living life in the fast lane no longer requires the time-pressed individual to sacrifice taste. “This isn’t crappy, to-go food—it’s gourmet and very diverse,” says Hilary Sibilia, a new resident of New York City, with her Korilla Grill Ribeye (bulgogi) burrito in hand. 50 >> spring 2012

Gourmet food trucks find a way to capture some of the richest flavors in new combinations that make your taste buds rise and shout for joy. Oh, and these dynamite delicacies are created in a kitchen that’s about the size of a taxicab. Impressed? The most successful food trucks have found a niche market and have capitalized on it. The food available on four wheels is diverse, including dishes like grown-up grilled cheese, meat-driven Korean food, pulled pork-centered BBQ, super soups, and golden fries—yes, there is a food truck that sells just fries with condiments (Frying Dutchman). “You get tired of the restaurants around you,” says Christine Sailer, as she waits for her Spicy Buffalo Chicken sandwich on 47th and Park Avenue. “The food trucks are convenient and bring variety to the area.” But how do businesses that change locations, often multiple times a day, tell their fans where to find them? Two words: social media. In addition to their websites, food trucks rely on Twitter and Facebook to get the word out about where they’ll be setting up shop for a limited time. “We like to strategize our lunch based on what food trucks are in the area,” says Amelia Meadows, a Manhattan resident, waiting for her smoked Gouda on wheat with BBQ pulled pork and onions. “I have an alert on my phone to remind me to check the food truck updates.” These social media outlets also allow businesses to communicate changes that come about due to bumps in the road—both literally and figuratively. Whether a truck experiences mechanical problems, is forced to relocate, is involved in a fender-bender, or simply runs out of food, social media keeps customers up-to-date. Kogi Grill, in Los Angeles, averages 10 tweets a day on its Twitter account, @kogibbq.

“To eat off street vendors is the ‘in’ thing to do—it’s the romanticization of urban dining. Many can’t afford to spend $70 at an eat-in restaurant, but with food trucks they can still eat a great meal for $15.” One tweet even acted as a lifeline for a Kogi truck named Roja, when it had mechanical difficulties: “**ROJA HATH FALLEN AND HE CAN’T GET UP** Can someone heLp us jumpstart? WiLL pay in FOOD! @4400 Riverside in Burbank.” In addition to social media, food trucks use unique truck designs to establish brand recognition and attract customers. The Sweetery’s truck (Chopper) in NYC is reminiscent of poetry fridge magnets on overdrive. The turquoise truck, which offers baked goods, is covered with descriptive adjectives such as “heavenly,” “scrumptious,” and “delectable.” Some trucks have an animal theme, such as Korilla BBQ’s vivid tiger pattern—or Gorilla Cheese, NYC’s giant King Kong–like mascot. These scintillating exteriors are a key component to what makes food trucks hip. “To eat off of street vendors is the ‘in’ thing to do—it’s the romanticization of urban dining,” says Eddie Song, co-founder of Korilla BBQ. “Many can’t afford to spend $70 at an eat-in restaurant, but with food trucks they can still eat a great meal for $15.” Food trucks aren’t only a great deal for the customers. There are benefits for the owners as well. With a mobile restaurant, food truck owners avoid pricey overhead costs, like rent and utilities. Having a mobile business is also great for customer outreach. Food trucks can have a broader following because they go to people all over the city.

But operating a business out of a truck comes with its own set of challenges and is not for the faint of heart. On average, food trucks are 26 feet long, with a 14- by 8-foot kitchen area, totaling 70 to 85 square feet (about the size of a Toyota Corolla). With upwards of four people working in the kitchen at a time, personal space doesn’t exist on a food truck. “Basically, you’re in a steel cage with someone one foot away from you all day,” says Song. “It’s really tight, so you better get along.” www.stowawaymag.com << 51

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Despite the cramped quarters that food truck workers face, they feel rewarded by providing others with delicious food. “Even in the beginning, when we were pulling 20-hour days, I felt fulfilled because I was giving people satisfaction through our food,” Song says. “If I didn’t have that, I wouldn’t be here.” It didn’t take long for Yosef Tiwary to love his work as a food trucker at Gorilla Cheese NYC. After only three months of working in the “steel cage” kitchen, he says with a smile, “I love serving the people of New York. They are the best.” The relationship between food truck workers and customers truly is mutually beneficial. It’s clear that although the trucks move often, the gourmet food truck business is here to stay. So stop walking and start eating the delicious delicacies of a gourmet food truck before it drives away. “It’s like the phantom toll booth,” declares Meadows. “You have to take advantage of them when they are here, because you don’t know when they’ll be back.”

52 >> spring 2012

Win ward r Vendy A a e Y e h t of d on the compete o ls a la il Kor Great twork’s “ Food Ne ck Race” Food Tru n a ic r e m A :

em pular It Most Po ogi) burrito ulg Ribeye (b om rillabbq.c q web: ko bb a ll ri o : @k twitter

It’s clear that although the trucks move often, the gourmet food truck business is here to stay.

illustration by sarah tomoser

Top: For these hungry customers at Korilla Grill, the countdown to chow time is near. Bottom left: The most popular menu item at Gorilla Cheese NYC is the smoked Gouda with pulled pork and onions sandwich. Bottom right: Take a bite out of Korilla Grill’s Ribeye (bulgogi) burrito.

Interested in studying the world?

Check out Brigham Young Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Geography major and expand your world! For more information and opportunities in geography:

www.geography.byu.edu

Pick Your Continent

International Study Programs at the Kennedy Center serves students, faculty, and departments by facilitating the development and implementation of quality international academic experiences. Use the Program Finder (http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp) to choose the best fit for your academic and professional goals covering four types of programs for any major to department-specific opportunities. Study Abroad

Students attend classes taught by BYU faculty that are enriched by excursions to local sites and immersion in a new culture. Some programs offer general education courses while others offer major-specific courses. These are excellent for students who are traveling overseas for the first time and who want a structured program with plenty of interaction with BYU faculty and students.

Direct Enrollment Students attend classes at an international institution of higher education. Classes are taught by local professors with the credit transferring back to BYU. Direct enrollment is ideal for students who are willing to accept the challenges of facing a new culture on their own or in small groups of other BYU students.

International Stud\ Programs Field Study

A field study is designed to help students prepare for graduate school or a career in cross-cultural/international consulting or research. Small groups of students, or individuals, live within a communityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;immersed in the local culture, as they carry out their own research projects. This type of program requires independent, committed, and self-motivated students, who are willing to prepare themselves through a semester-long preparation course, and who are willing to live in local conditions as members of a culture and community. Students are academically guided by one or several faculty mentors, as well as assisted with logistical arrangements by ISP staff throughout their preparations and field experience.

International Internships

Individual students or small groups work with international companies, government organizations, or development agencies. International internships are intended to provide a practical application of classroom learning. On-the-job experience is enhanced by regular feedback from a BYU faculty mentor. These internships are geared toward students who are independent, self-motivated, and willing to face the challenges of a new culture on their own. 101 HRCB | (801) 422-3686 | isp@byu.edu | kennedy.byu.edu/isp

Field Notes Off the beaten path >> Learn how it feels to be a hamster with the new extreme sport of globe-riding. page 56 PROFILE >> Experience the exotic sights and savory food of Costa Rica on a college student budget. page 58

HIghway highlights >> Relax along one of the most beautiful mountain drives America has to offer. page 60

tales from the trip >> Connect with Stowaway readers who tore up the road and the dance floor. page 64

photo contest >> Travel the world with the winners of Stowawayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photo contest. page 66

Photo BY Kyle Jamison

Mt. Arenal is one of the spectacular sites these cost-conscious students experienced in Costa Rica. page 58

off the beaten path

What the

ZORB are you talking about?

his spring, pack away your parachute, hang up your harness, and bind up your bungee, because the world of extreme sports can now offer you much more than the same old activities of jumping out of planes, hanging from cliffs, or diving off bridges with just a cord attached to you. Though this sport has been around for nearly 10 years, it is relatively new to the United States. The name? Globe-riding. To get an image of what this sport is all about, think

56 >> spring 2012

domesticated rodents—gerbils, rats, hampsters. If you had a hamster when you were a kid, you probably put it in a big plastic ball and let it run around your house all day. Now imagine that you’re that hamster. But instead of rolling yourself from place to place by pushing from the inside of the ball, you will be taken to the top of a hill and given a good, hard shove, sending you hurtling downward, spinning wildly out of control, the world outside melting into a complex streak of colliding color.

What do you say? Not intense enough for you? Well then, why don’t you try adding a couple buckets of water and a few friends to your adventure? Instead of feeling like a hamster, you now feel like a wet sock flopping around the inside of a running washing machine. The whole thing is terribly silly and extraordinarily fun. It all started with the invention of a 12-foot, inflatable plastic ball that is cushioned to be safe enough for people to bounce around the inside. Also called “sphering,” “freeballin,’” and “orbing,” this sport was invented by a company called ZORB in Rotura, New Zealand, in 1994. In 2007, ZORB opened a second location: ZORB Smoky Mountains in Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. It’s the same company that people have been enjoying for years, but now it’s closer than ever. At ZORB, you can try the Zorbit (a one-person ride, in which you are strapped to the inside of the ball by yourself) or the Zydro (where five gallons of water are added to the inside of the ball, along with

two of your friends). You can also choose to speed-topple right down the straight track or take the zig-zag route—which is a bit longer and much wilder. “I just remember being free and falling,” says Shannon Despain, who visited ZORB in Rotura, New Zealand a couple years back. “I was laughing so hard it hurt. At the end, I thought, ‘I want to do it again!’” ZORB was the first globe-riding company in the US, but in the last few years several locations have emerged across the country, generously offering to push you down a hill in a giant plastic ball. Seriously. In the Wisconsin Dells in Madison, Wisconsin, you can go freeballin. Here, the ball is placed on a ramp, and you are rolled from the top. The park also hopes to open a section where you can freeball on water; basically, you just roll around inside of a floating ball. Awesome. Amesbury Sports Park in Amesbury, Massachusetts—a ski resort and tubing park in the winter—offers what they call

OGOing in the summer. You can try the IGO (the solitary, dry ride) or the H2OGO (the wet ride with friends). Will Courtney, Operations Director of the park, says of his own experience with the H2OGO, “My friends and I were a little bit closer by the time we got to the bottom.” Roundtop Mountain Resort in Lewisberry, Pennsylvania, is the fourth location in the United States and also has OGO balls. Many other countries are also adopting the sport, so you can now try it almost anywhere you travel this spring. Look for globeriding in such places as England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland, Switzerland, Sweden, Estonia, the Czech Republic, the Slovak Republic, Slovenia, the North Pole, New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Japan, India, and Thailand. With excitement for this sport growing, now is the time to get out and try it! Get out and get your feet wet—or in the case of the Zydro or H2OGO, get your whole body soaked!

For more information: π www.zorb.com π www.dells.com π www.amesburysportspark.net/summer/ summer index.html π www.skiroundtop.com/adventure.htmw

Interesting Fact Because ZORB is the parent of globeriding, some people call the sport “zorbing.” But ZORB is a trademark, so saying “zorbing” is like calling a tissue a Kleenex or a soda a Coke—though people may know what you’re talking about, it still might earn you a few smirks.

Photography Courtesy of ZORB

Top, from left to right: Hurtling in the Zorbit. Three people cool off in the Zydro. Below, from left to right: Zorbing at sunset. Soloing in the Zydro. A globe rolls down its track. A girl enjoys the Zorbit.

—Vanae Nielsen

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profile

Cost-Conscious in

COSTA RICA K

yle Jamison and James Chapman were college students in need of a fun, inexpensive summer escape. An adventure in Costa Rica sounded perfect to them. Now first-year medical students, they recount their week in Costa Rica and share insider tips for taking an adventure on a budget.

This sounds like a spur-of-themoment summer trip. Why Costa Rica? Kyle: It’s a hobby of mine to plan vacations to different parts of the world. Fortunately, we were able to make this one happen. I had heard a lot of great things about Costa Rica from several people.

How did you get there without spending a lot of money?

How were you able to keep daily costs down?

James: We decided to buy standby tickets. Our flight was scheduled from Salt Lake City to New York, but we found out that we weren’t going to get out of Salt Lake for a few days because so many people were in the standby line. We met an older couple and explained our dilemma to them. They let us drive with them in their car all night down to Las Vegas so that we could catch a flight from there to New York early the next morning. In New York we took a flight to Orlando. We caught the last flight to San José and took a bus to get to our destination in Costa Rica.

James: Because we ate the local food, stayed in hostels, and tried not to spend much money, we spent only about $25 a day.

Would you recommend the standby option?

Was it all play?

James: I’d recommend doing a lot of research online and purchasing plane tickets in advance.

You probably traveled very light. Kyle: We were minimalists because we knew we’d be carrying everything on our back. All you need are some board shorts and a microfiber shirt, or just something that will dry fast, as it does like to rain in the rainforest. Because we packed pretty light, we were open to spontaneity and could spend additional time when we met cool people or found a rad spot.

James: No, we did one week of volunteer service and one week of vacation. We helped build a kitchen for a community center in a poorer

neighborhood. We would start early each day before it got hot or rained, and we would be done early so we could go out and experience the culture during the evening. During our break we were able to play with the kids. This was a great way to make friends as well.

What was your favorite part about Costa Rican culture? Kyle: I’m definitely a food guy. I’m big on trying new things—and the cosados (lunch plates) and the plethora of fruit did not disappoint.

What was the most bizarre thing you ate? James: They gave us a green orange. We thought it wasn’t ripe, but they said it was so we ate it. It was really delicious. They also had some other exotic fruits that weren’t too tasty. I’d never seen them before, but I tried them!

Any interactions with wildlife? Kyle: The monkeys were the most interesting animals to interact with. I think I got a little too close to one group; what looked like the alpha male charged at me and then bared his teeth and hissed. We also found a sloth, which was pretty cool. They just hang out.

photography courtesy of kyle jamison

James: It was cool to see the rainforest. There were iguanas

Above from top to bottom: One of the many hanging sloths. A waterfall in the area. Some of the many monkeys that hang around. Previous page: James Chapman stands at the base of Mt. Arenal.

everywhere. We also saw toucans. It was really neat to see a side of nature we don’t have in the United States.

What are some “musts” that you would recommend? Kyle: My favorite part was the people we met. Staying in hostels is a great way to meet other travelers. Just being friendly and talking to people you see every day expands your realm of adventures, as you can learn about where others are going and go with them. I recommend finding a good beach like Nosara, going for a hike in the rainforest, and seeing all the monkeys and other wildlife. Check out Mt. Arenal—the picturesque volcano in the middle of the country.

Would you do it again? James: I would do it again for sure. There are some things that happened that we didn’t plan on. We had some unexpected bumps on the way—such as losing our credit cards and having to go back and find them. But they make for great story. —Alexa Justesen

Kyle Jamison with one of the children he worked with.

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highway highlights

Blue Ridge Parkway

5 Stops along America’s Favorite Drive

ffering 469 miles of beautiful forests, hills, and gardens, Blue Ridge Parkway is known as “America’s Favorite Drive.” Winding south through the Smoky Mountains, the highway runs from Virginia to North Carolina. Both ends are home to a national park: the Great Smoky Mountains National Park at the north end, and the Shenandoah National Park at the south. Sandwiched in between are some of the most adventurous, most stunning, and most authentically historic places you will ever visit. The scenery in this countryside is truly spectacular, especially in the spring when everything is in bloom. Take out your camera and capture some of the goodness hiding out on the road between destinations. Here are a few of the hundreds of awesome stops along Blue Ridge Parkway that you won’t want to miss.

Drives through the Blue Ridge Mountains offer colorful sunsets.

Trails of varying difficulty traverse the Humpback Rocks.

Humpback Rocks

Olde Liberty Station Restaurant

Milepost (MP) 5.8 When you begin your journey on the north end of the parkway, it won’t be long until you find yourself staring at the majestic Humpback Rocks, part of the Appalachian Mountains. If you’re in the mood for hiking or picnicking, this is just the place. There are many different trails, so both the amateur and the expert hiker can have a good time. If you’re into history, you may want to check out the old cabins lining the hills that were home to farmers who settled this area in the nineteenth century. Whether you plan on stopping for a week, a day, or just an hour, Humpback Rocks is a place you won’t want to miss. ► www.hikingupward.com/gwnf/humpbackrocks ► www.blueridgeparkway.org/v.php?pg=103v

60 >> spring 2012

12 miles from MP 86

If you start to feel your stomach rumble as you head south, you may want to stop at Olde Liberty Station Restaurant. Originally a real railway station, this restaurant in Bedford, Virginia, has been beautifully restored and is a great place to fill up on yummy food while learning a little more about early railroad travel. Don’t leave without trying some of Harry’s Famous Cheesecake, which comes in a variety of flavors. Harry promises that you won’t regret it. ► www.oldelibertystation.com

photos by david allen (left); amber karnes (right)

► www.blueridgeparkway.org

Lost Sea

Exit I-75 at Sweetwater

Linn Cove Viaduct MP 304 If you’re in it for the long haul, you cannot miss Linn Cove Viaduct—literally. At milepost 304, you will drive right over it! However, don’t be fooled into thinking this is just an ordinary bridge. The viaduct was meticulously constructed to minimize the destruction of the surrounding environment and is recognized all over the country as an engineering marvel for the way it hugs the side of Grandfather Mountain without ever touching it. To get a good look at this amazing piece of architecture, you need to see it from its underside. So stretch those legs and take the hike down the Tanawha Trail for a better view.

Seen enough of the landscape? Why not venture beneath it? In Sweetwater, Tennessee, just off the parkway, there is a US Registered National Landmark waiting for you—underground. You’ll have to travel down through a system of caves and caverns to get there, but at the bottom you will find the nation’s largest underground lake—the Lost Sea. Those who have visited the caves in the past include Cherokee Indians, Confederate soldiers, and even a giant Pleistocene jaguar. ► www.thelostsea.com Below: Caves lead down to the Lost Sea. Bottom: Skyline Drive is the only public road through Shenandoah National Park.

► www.romanticasheville.com/linn_cove_viaduct.htm ► www.blueridgeparkway.org/v.php?pg=873

clockwise from bottom left: photos by dave allen; claire schmitt; nick chapman; tom stanley

Below: The Tanawha Trail, under the Linn Cove Viaduct, provides hikers with biological and geological diversity. Bottom: Hike through rhododendrons in Craggy Gardens.

Craggy Gardens MP 364

As your road trip winds down, there is one more hike that you have to take before you leave the parkway. Simply strewn with flowers high and low, the trail at Craggy Gardens is a lush, beautiful forested summit that will captivate your senses. Spring and summer are the best times to visit this area—when the rhododendrons are bursting with passionate pink and purple plumes— but you should stop no matter when your road trip is scheduled. There are plenty of flowers to see all through the warm months, so stop and smell the roses, the lilies, and the violets. ► www.blueridgeheritage.com/attractions-destinations/craggy-gardens ► www.blueridgeparkway.org/v.php?pg=112

—Vanae Nielsen www.stowawaymag.com << 61

Call for submissions

Have a tale from your trip or a stunning travel photo? Submit them on our website.

Follow us on Twitter: @stowawaymag Like us on Facebook: Stowaway Magazine Read current and past issues: www.stowawaymag.com Download our publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s app: MagCloud Magazine Store & Reader

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

tales from the trip

The Princess & the Mob

Stowaway readers share their travel adventures

Gang and mafia members, that’s who! My eyes widened as I followed my obviously insane sibling. What was he thinking? We were following a strange man . . . in New York City! We were going to die! The man led us to his black Escalade with tinted windows. Who drives an Escalade with tinted windows? I thought to myself. Gang and mafia members, that’s who! I was sure that at any moment this man was going to take out a cloth soaked in chloroform and stuff us in the back. I eyed him suspiciously, my muscles tensing at each move he made, as he hauled our luggage (not our unconscious bodies) into the back of the vehicle. But there is still enough time for horrible things

Have an interesting tale from your trip? Submit it at www.stowawaymag.com, and your story could be published in our next issue!

64 >> spring 2012

to happen, I told myself. It would be about a 20-minute car ride. My brother rode in the front with our “driver” while I sat as stiff as a board in the backseat. The strange man wove through rush-hour traffic, all the while spinning what I suspected to be false tales of the famous people he had driven around the city. I continued to be wary as we arrived at our destination, paid the man, and continued on our way. Turns out he really was a professional driver, and all that could have killed me were the stress and worry my imagination had caused. —Sally Reed Wade, Maine

photo by Mo westein

Traveling through an unfamiliar city can be a bit nerve-racking—even frightening. It was in this frame of mind that I landed in New York City with my brother. We were flying home for the summer after finishing a semester at school. I had never been to New York (the state, yes; the city, no), and my mind was full of TV-induced scenarios of what could happen to me while I was there. After retrieving our luggage, we set out to find a cab to take us to another airport within the city for our final flight. Almost immediately a man approached us, asking if we needed a ride. My brother promptly said yes, and the man took my bag and led us out of the airport.

Princesa Chapina My brother Andy is the envy of all the young men in Guatemala. He was the number one gringo in Guatemala for a night. On a trip a few years ago to Guatemala, Andy and I found ourselves walking the main square of Antigua. We stopped near a large crowd to hear a great marimba band. We later learned that the name of the band is Princesa Chapina (Guatemalan Princess). A rather attractive girl (my brother’s word was hot) was dancing with her grandma. After I gave him considerable encouragement, reminding him that this was a oncein-a-lifetime opportunity that could end any second, Andy walked up to her and with a smooth “puedo?” cut in on the dance. Andy is a superb dancer in his own right. He took the girl by the hand, and off they went. In a matter

of seconds everybody, including the girl, realized this gringo could move, and a fantastic cheer went up from the crowd. The fact that Andy hadn’t showered for a few days and looked like a scroungy hippie definitely added to the shock factor. I heard an old man next to me say, “El gringo es valiente!” (That white boy is brave!) Andy’s dancing partner was obviously a trained dancer, and she threw in some fancy footwork and twirls and such. I’m happy to say Andy not only held his own but also added a bit of flair himself. When he did his signature shimmy, the crowd roared. The dance ended with a fancy dip that brought the spectators to a near riot. By this time, the crowd had at least doubled because of the ruckus. Not wanting the moment to end, Andy asked for another dance. After that, the girl asked him for another. By that time,

they were quite the spectacle with a full-on audience. This talented Latin girl could really spice up the dance. And some of her moves brought the crowd to a veritable tumult. After three straight dances, she came right up to my camera and said in her wonderful Spanish accent, “I’m taking him with me.” They traded email addresses and shared an abrazo that obviously said “until next time” and not “goodbye.” As we left, Andy was so high on life that he offered to fly me to the hotel. I walked; Andy floated. Twenty-four hours later, Andy was dealing with some serious facial charley horses from a perma-grin. Perhaps he will be returning to Guatemala sooner than he thought. —Tyler Conlin Clinton, Utah

66â&#x20AC;&#x201A; >> spring 2012

Photo Contest Winners

st Three Orphans Stephanie Jarstad of Federal Way, Washington

This image was captured in Kibera, Kenya, at an orphanage called Siloam. I volunteered as a schoolteacher and an orphanage worker for a summer. Four hundred students who cannot afford to go to a government school attend Siloam. Orphans sleep three to a bed, but are happy to have 70 brothers and sisters. Here I learned from the children how to find joy in deprivation. This image is a moment of singing and laughing that I stumbled upon. These orphans may be hidden from the rest of the world, but as they peek through the cloth they beckon to be seen and taken care of.

nd Harmony in Hallstatt Mariana Castro of Lisbon, Portugal

In one of our most recent roadtrips, my family and I had the opportunity to visit the mystic territory of Austria. Austria’s culture is extensively influenced by music. It is not by chance that Vienna is still the world capital for classical music. However, it wasn’t in the crowded streets of the capital where we found untainted Austrian music; it was instead in the midst of the small village of Hallstatt, considered by many as the most beautiful village in the entire world. After taking a quick dive in the freezing lake, my family and I decided to go to the major plaza. As we sat on an empty stage placed in front of the central fountain, we heard some vigorous Austrian voices approaching from one of the alleys. Eight musicians dressed in Alps traditional clothing and carrying their instruments jumped onto the stage and began to play. I promptly took out my fisheye lens and took a picture from where I was seated. People slowly joined the irresistible music, and Hallstatt was soon the privileged home for a fantastic dance celebration.

rd Covered in Cambodia Lauren Redd of Bountiful, Utah

This photo was taken from the front gate of my host family’s house in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Every weekend, the monks would go from house to house, waiting patiently outside each gate. They would bless those who came out and gave them water, food, and money, and then they would move on to the next house. I like the orange of the monk’s robes and the way it sets him apart from his surroundings, both literally and figuratively. Though a major part of everyday Cambodian life, monks live a life completely dedicated to Buddhism, which separates them from the rest of society.

www.stowawaymag.com << 67

Artwork and custom framing | 8330 N University Ave Provo, UT | 800. 928.1644 | www.brownstoneart.com

Green Umbrella Photography For the pictures when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re home portraits. engagements. weddings. www.greenumbrellaphotography.com

Insider Tips and tricks >> Attention clean freaks: you can stay germ-free while traveling. page 70 Gadgets and gear >> Check out these travel apps for your smart phone. Save money and look like a local. page 72 Just The Ticket >> Enjoy some spring concerts that don’t even require a ticket. page 73 escapades >> Take a peek at some of the most famous streets around the world. page 74

Photo By Tim Strater

The Champs-Élysées is one of the most famous streets on the globe. Learn about others in “Famous Streets.” page 74

tips and tricks

10 Travel Tips for the

Clean Freak

Relax, germaphobes. We’ve got you covered! With all the bugs, staphs, and strains floating around, even the well-seasoned traveler can feel a little squeamish when the guy sitting next to him sneezes and touches his tray table. Try these handy products that can help keep you safe, sane, and sanitary.

Pocket-sized hand sanitizer

No one relishes the idea of sharing a bed with bugs, germs, and other peoples’ dead skin cells. Fortunately, there is a solution less drastic than hauling along a whole set of bedding: the sleep sack. There are several different kinds of sleep sacks available online, but if you are a budgetconscious traveler, sleep sacks are also simple to make yourself. A sleep sack is essentially a sheet folded in half and sewn across the bottom. Silk is an excellent fabric choice because it rolls up very small, breathes well, and is less likely to get twisted around you when you sleep.

Make sure you choose a sanitizer with at least 60% alcohol. Carrying a pocket-sized bottle—not a large bottle stored at the bottom of your suitcase—will help ensure you actually have it on you when you need it. The mini hand sanitizer from Purell contains 62% alcohol and has a handy carrier that can hook to your belt loop or bag strap.

Purell® Original Formula™ + Aloe Jelly Wrap™ Carrier Combo Pack ► www.purell.com ($4.99)

Personal stash of toilet paper There is no need to wonder who else has touched your piece of toilet paper when you pack your own. Also keep in mind that some countries don’t offer TP for free—you have to pay an attendant and hope you are given an adequate swatch for your needs. Charmin To Go Toilet Tissue comes in a water-resistant dispenser pack and is easily refillable.

Charmin To Go™ Toilet Tissue ► www.amazon.com ($0.99) ► www.charmin.com

Disposable toilet seat covers

For a few pennies a day, you can afford to avoid sitting on someone else’s germs. No more speculation about when the last time the toilet was disinfected. Biodegradable toilet seat covers are great if you are traveling to a place where the quality of the septic systems is suspect.

Grand™ Trunk Silk Sleep Sack ► www.rei.com ($29.93) ► www.grandtrunkgoods.com

Charmin To Go™ Toilet Seat Covers ► www.amazon.com ($0.93 for a package of 5)

70 >> spring 2012

Coghlan’s Biodegradable Travel Seat Covers ► www.amazon.com ($8.48 for a pack of 10) ► www.coghlans.com

photography by marissa empey and courtesy of the manufacturers/retailers

Sleep sack

Flushable personal wipes

Public Restroom Survival Kit

Flushable wipes, while an extremely handy addition to your toiletry kit, aren’t just for the restroom. Feel clean and fresh as you remove sand after a day at the beach, or wipe away sweat after you hike up a cliff for that beautiful view.

If the previously suggested items aren’t assuaging your fears of foreign public restrooms, bring out the big guns: the Public Restroom Survival Kit. In addition to the personal toilet paper, wipes, toilet seat covers, and hand sanitizer, this kit also arms you with a travel-sized Lysol Disinfectant Spray, Safe2Touch OnThe-Go Surface Cleaner, and two disposable gloves.

Public Restroom Survival Kit ► www.minimus.biz ($13.11)

Pocket-sized first aid kit

With community-acquired MRSA (methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureusis) on the rise, it’s become essential to keep all open cuts or scrapes covered. Don’t count on anyone else to run forward with a bandage and disinfectant—always carry your own. The pocket-sized first aid kit from Johnson & Johnson includes alcohol wipes, gauze pads, and various sizes of Band-Aids. There’s enough room in the small plastic case to fit other useful items, such as a fever-reducer, a small pair of scissors, blister protectors, and first aid ointment.

Charmin To Go™ Freshmates® ► www.amazon.com ($0.90 for a package of 10 or $21.48 for a box of 24 packages)

Travel-sized first aid kit

If you feel nervous leaving your medicine cabinet behind and a pocket-sized first aid kit just won’t do it for you, try the customizable Traveler Med Kit. The kit has 17 items, including fever reducers; anti-diarrheal, anti-histamine, and motion-sickness tablets; antibacterial ointment; medicated lip balm; alcohol wipes; insect sting relief; insect repellant; sunblock; personal bandages; a single-use cold pack; and a thermometer.

Toothbrush sanitizer Your friendly toothbrush often harbors risky germs. Toothbrush sanitizer to the rescue! Using the battery-operated VIOlight Travel Toothbrush, you can kill the nasty bacteria on your toothbrush with UV rays.

The Johnson & Johnson First Aid To Go!® Kit ► www.minimus.biz ($1.94) ► www.johnsonandjohnson.com

Disposable airline tray covers

In a recent study done by the University of Arizona, MRSA was found on 60% of tested airline trays. Use these handy tray covers to protect yourself from potentially dangerous bugs.

Coach Covers ► www.coachcovers.com ($6.95 for a package of 10) Traveler Med Kit ► www.minimus.biz ($24.48)

VIOlight® Travel Toothbrush Sanitizer & Storage System ► www.drugstore.com ($29.99) ► www.violight.com

—Marissa Empey

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gadgets & gear

App-titude for Travel Don’t leave the information age behind while traveling. Be sure to pick up a smart phone instead of a travel book for guidance. It will save time, money, and headaches. And it may even keep you from being labeled as a TOURIST.

Fly Delta Get every trip off to a good start with one-touch check-in and boarding pass retrieval 24 hours before takeoff. With this app, jet-setters can keep an eye on their flight status without navigating through thousands of departures and arrivals on airport websites. Simply scan the ticket’s QR code (square barcode) at the gate and prepare for takeoff.

Dictamus Travel diaries are a thing of yesteryear. Instead pick up your smart phone to record your travel adventures. These audio files can be downloaded to iTunes or emailed to friends and family all over the world.

Goby cingular

9:41 AM cingular

9:41 AM

From concerts to outdoor adventures (and everything in between), you will enjoy Goby’s recommendations for cool things to do in the area.

Google Translate Now passenger and taxi driver will always speak the same language. When you’re abroad and need a taxi, just say (or type) the destination and an audio and a written translation of the request appears in an instant. Important phrases can be starred for easy access.

cingular

9:41 AM

HopStop The cheapest way to get around in a large city is definitely via subway. HopStop finds the nearest subway station, gives directions to it, and offers train service reports to help avoid delays. Assisting tourists in avoiding aimless wandering, this app is available for all major cities in the United States as well as others around the world, including Montreal, Paris, London, and St. Petersburg. 72 >> spring 2012

Hotel Finder With this app, finding the perfect place for some zzzzz’s just got easier—a lot easier.

TheWeatherChannel With this app, you will always know ahead of time when to bring the umbrella along or to leave the jacket behind.

Stowaway to go For more travel info on the go, check out Stowaway’s current and past issues on your iPad. Download our publisher’s app from the iTunes store: MagCloud Magazine Store & Reader. —Sarah Tomoser

Photography by sarah tomoser and courtesy of developers

Yelp Find the best eats in town and some great deals with Yelp. This app utilizes the GPS in smart phones to identify the closest restaurants. Hungry travelers who have a certain cuisine in mind can read reviews to narrow down the choices. With a simple touch of the screen, users can get directions or make a reservation. Some restaurants even have deals available when users “check in” to their establishment—now that’s a combination to tantalize the taste buds while leaving budgets intact.

just the ticket

Music Hot Spots No Ticket Required

here is nothing better than good live music performances. But tickets to quality concerts can be expensive and hard to find, especially if you are traveling on a budget. Fortunately, three big cities—Toronto, London, and New York City—have a great lineup of concerts this spring, no ticket required. Check out these first-come, first-served music hot spots.

1 illustration by josh talbot

Toronto

Canada’s largest city is the place to go this spring for some musical fun. The Canadian Opera Company is offering a free concert series at the Richard Bradshaw Amphitheater. Every Tuesday and Thursday at noon—with the addition of some Wednesdays at noon and 5:30 pm— visitors are welcome to come and enjoy jazz, vocals, dance, piano, and world and chamber music by established and new artists. The doors open half an hour before the show, so be there early to get a good seat. π www.coc.ca/PerformancesAndTickets/ FreeConcertSeries.aspx

London

Why wait until evening to catch some great music? At Trafalgar Square in London, St. Martin’s Church offers free lunchtime concerts every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. At 1:00 pm, St. Martin-inthe-Fields presents different chamber choirs, orchestras, and ensembles that perform a variety of music to be enjoyed by everyone. The tradition started in London shortly after World War II and has been carried on by St. Martin’s ever since. While donations are appreciated, music lovers are welcome to just come and enjoy some great live performances. π www2.stmartin-in-the-fields.org/page/ music/lunchtime.html

New York City Not all great concerts fall on the weekends. For some free early-week music in the evenings, music lovers are invited to Broadway for Music Mondays once a month at 7:30 pm. Every month, different emerging ensembles are invited to perform a variety of music at 2504 Broadway. On March 19, Sospiro Winds, a wind ensemble, will be performing some favorite classical pieces. On April 23, you can come and enjoy some clever compositions at In the Kaleidoscope: Music of Sean Shepherd. On May 28, come and listen to the Escher Quartet, a string quartet that is quickly gaining note. Information can be found on the Music Mondays website. π www.musicmondays.org/index.html

—Kathy Hopkinson www.stowawaymag.com << 73

escapades

Famous Streets These roads are all the rage

Many big cities around the globe have world-famous streets that provide the culture and excitement youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for, all in one location. Here are some of the most famous, exciting, and culture-infused streets in the world.

PHOTO BY MARTIN PETTITT

Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland The Royal Mile, which starts at the base of the historic Edinburgh Castle and ends just past Holyrood Palace, offers everything a traveler wants to experience in Scotland. Shops line the road, selling the famous Scottish tartans and shortbread. Men in kilts walk the street playing bagpipes as friendly shop owners welcome you into stores full of Gaelic treasures and Celtic music. Keep an eye out for the frequent festivals and parades that make their way down the long, winding street.

Broadway, New York City, USA Welcome to the Big White Way. Set in the heart of Manhattan, Broadway encompasses the theater district and Times Square, two of the hottest spots in New York City. Catch a musical or browse the tourist shops in Times Square. The best time to saunter down this street is at night, when glittering marquees shine on every building.

sign Graphic, Clockwise from rambla de canaletes: Photos by 1997/flickr, tim strater, amy hatch, alexa justesen, gabriel ehrnst grundin, peter j. bellis PHOTO BY RUSTY HASKELL

74â&#x20AC;&#x201A; >> spring 2012

Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, USA The Walk of Fame will make you feel like Hollywood royalty as you glide down one of California's most famous streets. Lined with stars highlighting your favorite actors, directors, and musicians, this street lets you experience the magic of Hollywood. Stop at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, and you might be lucky enough to catch a movie premiere. Or hop on a tour bus to see some of Hollywood’s most famous filming locations.

PHOTO BY ESPENSORVIK

La Rambla, Barcelona, Spain Located in central Barcelona, La Rambla is definitely a must-see. Colorful architecture, exotic food, and the romantic Catalan language permeate the wavy pavement and make La Rambla thrive. Seafood is a favorite among tourists and locals in this coastal city, and some of the best can be found at the restaurants and food stands lining the street. Check out the Christopher Columbus monument at the southern end of La Rambla, or sample the colorful fruit in the Mercat de la Boqueria, an indoor farmer’s market.

PHOTO BY D. DOHLER

Orchard Road, Singapore Orchard Road, famous for its shopping and entertainment, is a great street to experience Singaporean culture. Both tourists and locals flock to this street to eat, shop, and visit famous landmarks. Its $40 million makeover in 2009 make this street a place for those who want to experience some glamour. Visit the Far East Plaza to see how the young adults of Singapore live. Then stop by the Istana—the official residence of the president of Singapore—where, on the first Sunday of every month, you can witness the changing of the guard. PHOTO BY SONHAM BANERJEE

Champs-Élysées, Paris, France Also called “the belle of Paris,” the Champs-Élysées is known for its high-end shopping and delicious fare of classic French food. In the spring, the Champs-Élysées features beautiful gardens and trees that line the promenade. Meander down the wide street, and you will find yourself at the Arc de Triomphe, a solemn, iconic monument built to honor the soldiers who died during the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars. —Alexa Justesen PHOTO BY TERRAZZO

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tales from the trip

76â&#x20AC;&#x201A; >> spring 2012

staff essay

Leaving the Harbor

Photography by alexa justesen

Mark Twain once said, “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” These last three words, which have become Stowaway’s motto, encourage us to search, toss away inhibitions, and uncover places we didn’t previously know about— even if it means planting ourselves somewhere we never dreamed about or even dared go. One of my favorite parts about travel is that you have to plan for the unexpected. Just realize, however, that the unexpected is what causes us to discover. As one of the most structured people I know, I used to have a hard time making myself flexible. I liked to have a plan for everything and to feel in control of myself and my surroundings. Although I loved to travel, I never let the experience take me somewhere. Those controlling chains broke down, however, when my family took a month-long trip to Europe. Just about everything you’d imagine could go wrong, did. Hotel bookings fell through, train tickets were lost, flights were missed, and food made us sick. My family was a little stressed out. While I was glad for this once-in-a-lifetime European experience, I was disheartened by these misadventures. But in a tiny town outside of Munich, I realized I was learning how to sail away from my own safe harbors and how to let life and its adventures take me away. We had missed our return flight from Munich to Chicago due to bad weather, and my family was spending one night in Germany— something that had not originally been on our itinerary. That night, I discovered that our trip had changed me—and that I had let it do so. The beauty of letting an experience like this change you is that it opens your eyes. That night in Munich, we walked through a small outlying village, complete

If we had made our flight, we would have missed the flower field and old church outside of Munich.

with old churches, thatched-roof homes, and fall leaves. I realized that I was there in that moment and that it was an experience I would never get back. Sure, some parts of the trip had been undesirable, but moments like these made me glad we had missed our flight. It was an experience not to be missed. That is what travel can do. Let it take you somewhere you haven’t been. Let it give you new experiences. The less-than-ideal circumstances my family went through made us laugh in the end. But you don’t need to wait until the end of a journey to enjoy it. Embrace the moment, and let travel take you somewhere. Explore. Dream. Discover. —Alexa Justesen

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Parting Shots Photo By Marissa Empey

A view of Xiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;an, China, through one of the old city gates. The gate is part of the city wall, which was reconstructed in the fourteenth century during the Ming Dynasty. The Bell Tower in the distance marks the geographical center of the ancient capital. It houses several large bronze-cast bells that used to ring at dawn.

Photo By Lindsay Brown

The view from the top of St. Paulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cathedral is well worth the 530 steps to the top to look out over the southwest clock tower and the rest of London. This massive, domed cathedral is the masterpiece of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beloved architect, Sir Christopher Wren.

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tales from the trip

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