Stowaway
spring 2011
EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.
CEDAR POINT The Coaster Capital of the World
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE San Antonio’s River Walk The Mythic Wonder of Stonehenge Teaching India’s Orphans
contents
40 Features Jamghat’s Gift
40
How India’s orphans gave one volunteer teacher an unexpected education.
46
The River walk Forget the Alamo—for a new way to explore San Antonio, tour the River Walk, a stretch of riverside shops, performers, and boat rides.
4 > > Spr i ng 2 011
A Mythic Wonder Uncover the myths surrounding the origin of Stonehenge, one of the world’s most intriguing and beautiful mysteries.
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Scream Machines Seeking thrills? Check out Cedar Point’s record-breaking roller coasters.
photo by W, Seto, Flickr
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Stowaway SPRING 2011
Departments
7 Letter from the Editor 8 Happenings
Culture
Insider
12 The Art of Capoeira 15 Backyard Ruins 16 Find Your Sweet Spot in Paris 17 Now Your Vacation’s Cookin’
56 World Travel on a Dime 57 Travel Light 58 Stylin’ in the Rain 60 Kendall Wilcox—Globetrotter 62 Turbulence Trouble
Getaway 20 Bike through America 22 Mirror Lake 25 Whatcom County 26 New York City 29 Treasures of Hawaii 30 Escape to Ecuador
Field Notes 67 Photo Contest Winners 70 Tales from the Trip 72 Sustaining Haiti 74 Running Rome 76 Staying Sane on Interstate15 78 Parting Shot
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29
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60
72 ON THE COVER
Riders on the Maverick roller coaster at Cedar Point experience extreme thrills at speeds of 70 mph. Photo by Cmedinger, Wikimedia Commons
ON THE BACK COVER Photo by Nutta, Flickr w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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Stowaway EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.
Acct. Exec. Creative Dir. Production Art Director Proofreader Studio
© 2011 Marvin K. Gardner 4045 JFSB, Brigham Young University Provo, Utah 84602 Printed by MagCloud.
Stowaway is produced as a group project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, and designing. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and in no way represent the views or opinions of BYU.
Life is calling. How far will you go?
Special thanks to Jeremy Penrod for his work in designing our website.
π www.stowawaymag.com
mASTHEAD PHOTOGRAPHY by Candice McWhorter
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MANAGING EDITOR Colin Baker ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITORS Keri Shurtliff Amanda Reschke SENIOR EDITORS Martha Ostergar Sara D. Smith ASSOCIATE EDITORS Trevor Redd Darcie Jensen Kristen Hutchings COPYEDITORS Rachel Bauer Julie Davis ART DIRECTOR Katie Nelson Heather Walker ASSOCIATE DESIGNERS Darcie Jensen Rachel Bauer Amanda Reschke Megan McWhorter PHOTO EDITOR Kristen Hutchings PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Amanda Reschke WEB MANAGER Megan McWhorter BUSINESS MANAGER Katie Nelson EDITOR IN CHIEF Marvin K. Gardner ADVISOR Chelsee Ostler 1/9/2007 DEBORAH
Your daily work will be anything but a chore.
editor’s note
photo by Allison Gardner
Stepping Outside Your Comfort Zone I travel to have fun. It might not be the most sophisticated or noble reason to go on vacation, but that’s just the type of person I am. Your reasons for traveling might be different from mine, but the end result is usually the same: get out of the house, go somewhere new, and return home refreshed, rejuvenated, and maybe even a little wiser. But travel plans rarely work out so smoothly. Complications and hassles seem to appear out of nowhere. For something that’s supposed to be relaxing, vacationing sure can be stressful, even a bit nerve-wracking. Perhaps that’s why some people seldom leave the country, and others rarely take vacations. A little thing called Murphy’s Law always seems to shift into overdrive when vacations are involved. So let’s face it: traveling is a daunting task with plenty of potential obstacles ready to trip us up. That’s where Stowaway comes in. Stowaway doesn’t seek to alleviate every concern you may have, nor does it intend to impart one brilliant trade secret that makes travel a breeze. Instead, we here at Stowaway share the experience we do have in hopes that you can make your next vacation the best you’ve ever taken. In the following pages, there’s a little something for every prospective traveler, from those seeking just a few days of leisure to others who want a couple of weeks adventuring into the unknown. Never had a desire to visit Stonehenge?
Our look at the mystical location may convince you otherwise. Need help with packing? We have some tips to help you with that daunting endeavor. Having trouble deciding where to go for the coming weekend? We can explain why America’s Rail-Trails make an excellent choice. Think of this magazine as a guide, a collection of stories, and a window into the places you never knew you wanted to go. So go ahead and peruse the magazine—every little nugget of information you discover can make a difference when you finally decide to venture outside your comfort zone, which you most certainly will if we have a say in anything. And if you get to the end of the magazine and think you haven’t learned a thing, read it again. You missed something.
Colin Baker
MANAGING EDITOR w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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happenings
SPRING
flings
Spring has sprung, bringing with it flower, food, music, and cultural celebrations around the country. For a fun way to enjoy the season, check out these spring festivals. Tempe Festival of the Arts March 25–27 Tempe, Arizona More than 400 artists, both local and national, display their work at this popular biannual art festival. Many types of art are displayed, including woodwork, photography, and wearable art. While the festival focuses primarily on the artists and their work, festival-goers can also enjoy jazz music, street performers, and vendors’ wares. π www.tempefestivalofthearts.com
Easter Cache Hunt April 23 Boulder Junction, Wyoming Think you’re too old for Easter egg hunts? Think again. Boulder Junction’s Easter Cache Hunt lets you try your hand at geocaching. This town offers an introduction to geocaching with a hunt for twelve caches, prizes, free lunch, and wagon rides. π www.tourism.state.wi.us/event_detail/Easter_Cache_Hunt.aspx
Shenandoah Apple Blossom Festival April 25–May 1 Winchester, Virginia Winchester is a small, rural city near Washington DC. This festival brings in thousands of visitors each year with more than 30 attractions, including band competitions, dances, parades, carnivals, a circus, a 10K race, and even the Queen Shenandoah beauty pageant. Don’t forget to be on the lookout for famous faces: the Apple Blossom Festival is known for attracting celebrity guests. π www.thebloom.com 8 >> Spr i ng 2 011
Texas Crawfish & Music Festival 2nd, 3rd, and 4th weekends in April Old Town Spring, Texas Come listen to your favorite bands and discover new performers while enjoying crawfish, Cajun food, and carnival rides. Tickets are required, but proceeds benefit community projects and the preservation of historic Old Town Spring.
by Sara D. Smith Illustrated by Amanda Reschke
π www.texascrawfishfestival.com
Spring Planting Festival May 1–2 Baker Creek, Missouri
This festival attracts thousands of gardeners, seed-collectors, and folk music enthusiasts each year. Festival-goers learn about heirloom gardening and planting from horticulturists and celebrate spring with western, folk, country, Irish, and bluegrass music. The festival also offers a taste of the local Ozark heritage with historic dress, demonstrations, and food. π www.rareseeds.com/bakersville/festivals/spring-planting-festival
Tulip Time Festival May 7–14 Holland, Mississippi The city of Holland celebrates spring—and its Dutch heritage—with an annual tulip festival. Thousands of colorful tulips line the streets and fill gardens throughout the city. This weeklong festival celebrates Dutch culture with parades, Dutch dance performances, fireworks, concerts, theater performances, trolley tours, and Dutch food. π www.tuliptime.com
Seattle Cheese Festival May 14–15 Seattle, Washington Wisconsin is not the only place to find great cheese. Located at Seattle’s Pike Place Market, the Seattle Cheese Festival features more than 250 different cheeses from around the world. Cheese lovers come to learn about and celebrate their favorite dairy treat with seminars, discussion panels, cooking demonstrations, and, of course, cheese-tasting. Come hungry: the cheese samples are free ($1 donation suggested) and unlimited. π www.seattlecheesefestival.com
Strawberry Spring Music Festival May 26–30 Yosemite, California
Portland Rose Festival
This music festival features everything acoustic, from rock to Cajun to bluegrass. Artists hold voice, dance, and instrument workshops where they answer questions and share tips with budding musicians. The festival is held outdoors, rain or shine, in a forest near the entrance to Yosemite National Park. Onsite campgrounds are available for festival-goers.
June 1–30 Portland, Oregon
π www.strawberrymusic.com
π www.rosefestival.org
This festival celebrates the season with more than 60 events throughout the month of June. Events include the Grand Floral Rose Parade, an electric light parade, boat races, tours of historical landmarks and gardens, and more. Characters from Portland’s history pop up around town, and the Lloyd Center Ice Rink is turned into a rose garden where rose gardeners from around the Pacific Northwest show off their most fragrant and colorful flowers. Check the website for a schedule of events.
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simple green
Keeping you clean wherever you go. 1-800-228-0709 www.simplegreen.com
Culture ARTS >> Our own Keri Shurtliff discovers the
Brazilian art of capoeira. page 12
ARTS >> Discover the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ancient cultures without leaving the United States. page 15 EATS >> Explore a variety of cultures as you cook
Photo by martha ostergar
their cuisine. page 17
EATS >> Taste this creamy mango
gelato at Amorino, one of the sweet spots in Paris. You can make a trip to Paris even sweeter when you tour the city by pâtisserie. page 16
arts
M
y mom died of cancer. Her brother died of a pulmonary embolism three hours later. My niece died of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS). My dad remarried. All within nine months.
1 2 >> Spr i ng 2011
The Art of Capoeira
Almost every morning I woke up to find that what I thought was nothing but a nightmare was in fact reality. The many uncontrollable dreams that flooded my mind with fear and heartache deeply affected me mentally, physically, and spiritually. I needed something to take my mind off things and to help me refocus. I was desperate for relief. Since I felt tired all of the time, I decided I needed to exercise. I remembered seeing pictures of my friend performing capoeira. The photos showed the life and energy of a Brazilian martial-art form that combines break-dancing, music, self-defense, and gymnastics. I thought I’d give it a try. What did I have to lose? I knew I needed a break from the familiar: why not look into a new culture to try to find a new solution? To be honest, I was hesitant at first. I knew almost nothing about the culture of capoeira. I didn’t even know how to pronounce the name correctly. I’m not much of a dancer and haven’t done a cartwheel in years. But somehow, putting one foot in front of the other, I found my way to the classroom, and my journey began. I slipped to the back of the class, hoping to blend in and to simply follow the other people in front of me without drawing too much attention to myself. We fell into the gentle rhythm of the basic step, the ginga. As I swayed back and forth, swinging my arms in front of me to the pulse of the music, I thought to myself, “This is easy; I can do this.” As the class went on, I could feel with each step the weight of my burdens flowing out of me and a wave of positive energy flowing into me. The even, steady motions soothed my mind, body, and soul. I felt rejuvenated. Worries and fears that had engulfed my mind for months faded into the background. I felt incredible. In my class were people with varying skill levels, from student to teacher to master. Similar to Eastern martial arts, capoeira has ranks. Capoeiristas receive cords similar to belts in taekwondo. They receive their first cord at their batizado (baptism), when the master “takes them down” and gives them a nickname as part of the initiation into the sport. To become a mestre (master) a person must dedicate at least 15 to 20 years to learning capoeira. It was intimidating being around so many experienced capoeiristas; however, despite
phototography by Rachel bauer
Body. Mind. Spirit.
my inexperience, the friendly and encouraging atmosphere alleviated my insecurities. Together we heard the twang of the berimbau and the swish and jingle-jangle of the pandeiro. A clear voice resonated through the room, singing the ladainha, or the beginning solo that is performed by the most experienced capoeirista. That was our cue to gather into the roda (circle) and play capoeira. The berimbau is a percussion instrument with a single string and a cabaca, which sounds like a maraca, attached to it. The pandeiro is like a tambourine. The conga, or hand drum, adds energy and a spirited rhythm to the music. As we gathered together, we clapped our hands in unison with the beat of the drum and began to sing in response to the leader. As we sang, we became a single entity, linked together by the motion of the music. I had no idea what I was singing, but as I sang, I felt a deep connection to the people around me and to my own essence. I felt peace mingled with an exhilarating burst of energy. As we continued to sing, two capoeiristas stepped into the circle, greeting one another and then spinning into the middle. To the beat of the music, each capoeirista gracefully contributed to a physical conversation, exchanging stunning kicks, sweeps, cartwheels, headstands, and takedowns. At the end of the match, the capoeiristas congenially shook hands and hugged each other as they rejoined the circle. The purpose of capoeira is not to injure your opponents, but to outsmart them by anticipating their moves. There is not much physical contact; rather, there is a lot of sparring and dodging, more like a dynamic dance than a fight. Ruben Pacheco, from Caracas, Venezuela, describes his experience
in the circle: “Everything turns into another world. You forget everything. It’s just you and the person and the people around you. It’s like an adventure.” Capoeira is all about self-expression and freedom. These ideas are tied closely to the origins of capoeira, which began in the sixteenth century, when African slaves in Brazil combined various fighting styles from their different tribes. Some claim that the slaves practiced capoeira to secretly learn fighting techniques, so they could eventually
“People might have thought they conquered the slave, but the slaves conquered the world with capoeira.” revolt against their masters. Others claim that the slaves learned it simply to express themselves and to find their own freedom after a hard day’s work. David Rivera, from Cárdenas, Mexico, has participated in the sport for the past four years. “Some people might have thought they conquered the slave,” he says, “but the slaves conquered the world with capoeira.” While there are other myths surrounding the origin of the sport and its tradition that remain undefined, today capoeiristas like David continue to define the culture through their own experiences. Capoeira helped me manage my struggles and find serenity in the storm of life. It was also genuinely fun—something I hadn’t experienced in a long time. Although capoeira didn’t solve all of my problems, the sport helped me clear my mind and gain a more positive perspective on life. —Keri Shurtliff
How to Get Involved Arte Capoeira Center 1 East 28th St. FL2 New York, NY 10016
Cordao de Ouro Capoeira—St. Louis
212-431-0811
6537 Olive Blvd. University City, MO
π www.artecapoeira.com
314-304-7719
Axé Capoeira Academy 1650 N Scottsdale Rd. Tempe, AZ 85281 602-614-7367
π www.axecapoeira-az.com Capoeira Brazil—Los Angeles 5557 Washington Blvd Los Angeles, CA 90016 323-935-2224
π www.capoeirabrasil.com
π www.cdo-stl.com
Capoeira Maculelê Murfreesboro 220 Barfield Crescent Rd. Murfreesboro, TN 37128 615-427-8113
π www.capoboro.com Capoeira Brasil North Carolina
Salt Lake Capoeira Studio
105 W. Corporation St.
2191 South 300 West 2nd Floor
Durham, NC 27701
Salt Lake City, Utah 84115
π www.nccapoeira.com
π www.saltlakecapoeira.com
Capoeira Volta ao Mundo—Maine
Utah Valley Capoeira
65 W. Commercial Street #107
308 S. 1250 W. Lindon, UT 84042
Portland, ME 04101
801-358-8402
π www.apoeiramaine.com
π www.utahcapoeira.com
207-409-6124
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Photo by japan black, flickr
your ad here
Backyard Ruins Ancient History Museums in America
Exploring ruins in Athens, Rome, and Egypt isn’t the only way to get a taste of ancient history. When you’re on a budget, try heading to a museum to get your fill of ancient art, history, architecture, and culture. Although the following museums are located in the United States, they offer authentic artifacts and replicas from ancient cultures around the world. Oriental Institute Museum Chicago, Illinois
Cleveland Art Museum Cleveland, Ohio
The Parthenon Nashville, Tennessee
The University of Chicago’s Oriental Institute Museum features the history and art of the ancient Near East. Exhibits display archeological artifacts unearthed by the Institute from many ancient cultures, including Mesopotamia, Assyria, Syria, Persia, and Nubia. Artifacts include sculptures, jewelry, and a fragment of the Dead Sea Scrolls. Admission is free.
This museum houses more than five thousand years of art from ancient and modern cultures, including Japan, Egypt, ancient America, and Africa. There are thousands of paintings, ancient sculptures, and jewelry. Artifacts include a brooch from the Carolingian period, a Chinese pendant from 4700 BC, and a chest plate from fifth-century Panama. Admission is free.
π www.oi.uchicago.edu/museum
π www.clevelandart.org
Forget the country music and Elvis impersonators—check out Nashville’s full-scale replica of the Parthenon in Athens. This replica stands as a monument to classical architecture and sculpture. Built in the late nineteenth century, Nashville’s Parthenon is now an art museum, housing the work of nineteenth- and twentieth-century artists—and a 42-foot sculpture of Athena. Admission is $6.
Photo by rafi b., wikimedia commons
π www.nashville.gov/parthenon
Museum of World Treasures Wichita, Kansas
Rosicrucian Egyptian Museum San Jose, California
Aztec Ruins National Monument Aztec, New Mexico
This museum is aptly named—it features treasures such as dinosaur bones, Egyptian mummies, Persian jewelry, and artifacts from ancient American and classical civilizations. The museum does not limit its collections to a specific period or culture; in addition to exhibits of ancient culture, visitors can find sports memorabilia, the signatures of American presidents, and a piece of the Berlin wall. Admission is $8.95.
Modeled after the temple of Amon, this museum features the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts in the West. Visitors learn about the burial practices, religion, government, and daily life of the ancient Egyptians. Features include animal mummies and an exhibit exploring Egyptian beliefs about the afterlife. Admission is $9.
If you are interested in ancient American history, visit the ruins at Aztec Ruins National Monument. While not a traditional history museum, this monument offers visitors a glimpse of a lost civilization. On a self-guided half-mile tour, explore ancient stone, wood, and mortar structures that were once the home of an ancestral Pueblo society. Admission is $5.
π www.worldtreasures.org
π www.egyptianmuseum.org
π www.nps.gov/azru —Sara D. Smith w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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eats
Sweet Spot Find Your
in Paris
Angelina
Pierre Hermé
Angelina is famous for its decadent hot chocolate—as thick and creamy as I imagine a melted chocolate bar would be. Nothing could provide a more divine sugar-coma. You can also indulge in a full meal or try their equally famous Mont Blanc pastry. The Mont Blanc’s crisp meringue is coated first with whipped cream and then with candied chestnut cream that is piped onto the surface in squiggles. The delicate earthy flavor of the chestnuts adds balance to this sugary dessert.
Pierre Hermé is a swank, upscale pâtisserie, and it’s definitely worth the splurge. Here we sampled their deux mille feuilles, an upgrade from France’s traditional mille feuilles (literally translated as two thousand sheets and one thousand sheets respectively), a heavenly layering of paper-thin pastry and cream. We also sampled the curiously green lemon mousse cake called le désir. In appearance it resembled a small bundt cake, but its creamy texture and flavor were so light and refreshing, I could have eaten six in one sitting.
Amorino Gelato is the name of the game at Amorino. Flavors run from the traditional chocolate and hazelnut to more exotic flavors like passion fruit, mango, and coconut. I could not get enough of the mango, because, well, it tasted just like fresh, ripe mangoes with cream.
À la mère de famille This gem of a shop has been a French candy tradition since the 1700s. Their homemade caramels were a treat for both our eyes and our taste buds. These buttery-soft candies come in unusual but unbeatable flavors such as citrus, cherry, and—my favorite—chili pepper. 1 6 >> Spr i ng 2011
Angelina’s famous hot chocolate
Jean-Paul Hevin This chocolatier is dedicated to the flavor, texture, and simple presentation of their wares. Nothing in this shop will disappoint. As a bonus, the staff is more than friendly, and while we were there, they spent time explaining the confections as we (slowly) made our choices. Their Mexican almonds coated in caramel milk chocolate and powdered sugar had a light texture with a healthy crunch and were our particular favorite.
Secco Pâtisserie-Boulangerie Secco, just a short walk from the Eiffel Tower, was by far my favorite stop in Paris. We got a little of everything in this no-frills shop, from traditional French breads and pastries to seasonal creations with fresh wild strawberries, all at a reasonable price. The sable (butter cookie) with raspberry jam was a perfectly simple and delicious combination.
Le désir from Pierre Hermé
—Martha Ostergar
Sable with raspberry jam from Secco
PHOTOgraphy BY martha Ostergar; The Pâtisseries of Paris book photo courtesy of soladylike.com
Since my childhood, family vacations have been centered around one question: “What are we going to eat?” With this very question in mind, my sister and I toured Paris by pâtisserie (pastry shop). Armed with Jamie Cahill’s book, The Pâtisseries of Paris—which lists the pâtisseries, c hocolatiers, cafés, and glaciers of Paris by arrondissements (neighborhoods)—we discovered the charms of the French through their food. Here are some highlights of our favorite sweet spots in Paris.
Now Your Vacation’s
Cookin’
Attention, foodies! Instead of simply sampling local flavor on your vacation, why not bring a taste of your travels home with you? Cooking vacations are a unique way to experience a country, city, or village as you learn about food traditions by cooking local dishes and exploring local markets. Whether you want cooking lessons locally or abroad, for a day, a week, or longer, there is a cooking vacation for you. Prices, which are based on location and length of stay, typically range from $150 to $4,000.
Epitourean.com & Cookingvacations.com
These sites are merely two names under the umbrella of one company, each one specializing in local or international cooking vacations, respectively. Epitourean.com offers packages in all 50 states, Washington DC, and Puerto Rico. In some cases, the site simply provides contact information for local cooking schools that offer open classes. Cookingvacations.com focuses on international-based cooking vacations. The site offers experiences for “sophisticated foodies” who are interested in a more intense experience. In addition, both sites help you customize your experience by letting you choose the type of food, location, budget, and length of your vacation.
Cooking-vacations.com
This site offers vacations exclusively in Italy. Some tours stay in one location, and other tours take you from village to village to find what each town and local market has to offer. In addition, some tours make stops at local vineyards and cultural landmarks. Cookingvacations.com also offers tours for specific groups such as “women only” or “couples only,” giving you some common ground with your fellow vacationers.
PHOTOgraphy BY martha ostergar
Theinternationalkitchen.com
While theinternationalkitchen.com offers traditional cooking vacations, some tours take you to the Metropolitan Opera in New York City to learn more about the art of opera. The opera tours do not include cooking lessons but rather a sampling of top restaurants in the city. And for the serious foodies, theinternationkitchen.com also offers intensive one-week programs in Tuscany, Italy, and Provence, France, called “stages.” Throughout each weeklong stage, you learn from a professional chef how to cook over 50 dishes by day and how to become his or her assistant in the restaurant by night. —Martha Ostergar w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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Getaway AWAY FOR A WEEKEND >> Bike one of America’s rail-
trails, or cling to the fading winter season at Mirror Lake in Kamas, Utah. page 20
AWAY FOR A WEEK >> Discover Whatcom County, Washington—one of the best places to celebrate spring. page 25
AWAY FOR A WHILE >> Check out three must-see
Photo by Kylie nixon
stops in Ecuador and Hawaii. page 29
AWAY FOR A WEEK >> With MetroCard in hand, experience the best of New York City on a budget. page 26
away for a weekend
Bike through America 5 Scenic Rail-Trails
For a new way to experience your favorite destinations, grab a bike and check out a nearby rail-trail. Many railroad tracks that once connected Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cities were discontinued in the 1960s. But today more than 1900 miles of tracks around the country have been converted into multi-use trails known as rail-trails. Rail-trails attract runners, walkers, and inline skaters, but they are especially popular among bicyclists. Zipping through the countryside on a bicycle is a great way to explore a location, enjoy the scenery, and appreciate a little history. Rail-trails can be found in every state. Most are located near major urban centers and historical sites, making them easy stops for travelers and fun weekend getaways for locals. Restaurants and small shops line many of these trails, offering unique experiences. Here are some of our favorite trails. Each offers bike rentals, public restrooms, and a great ride. Maps, directions, and other information are available at the websites provided. Happy trails! 20 >> S pr i ng 2011
Illinois Prairie Path
top photo by john phelan, wikimedia commons; bottom photo by tom jackson, wikimedia commons Right from Top photos by david joyce, flickr; joe mabel, wikimedia commons; greenglass1972, wikimedia commons
Experience scenic Cape Cod forests and beaches by biking along the Cape Cod Rail Trail. This trail is one of hundreds of rail-trails, a network of abandoned railroad tracks throughout the United States that have been converted into multi-use trails.
1 Cape Cod Rail Trail Massachusetts
This 22-mile paved trail winds along the coast and through New England forests, offering the best of Cape Cod scenery: pine trees, sandy beaches, cranberry bogs, and salt marshes. Bikers can take a break on the beach or check out the trailside’s seafood restaurants and ice cream shops. Rentals for bikes, rollerblades, and even hand-cycles are available at the trailheads. Outof-state visitors can save money on lodging by camping at Nickerson State Park, located at the trail’s halfway mark, which also offers hiking, boating, and fishing. π www.mass.gov/dcr/parks/southeast/ccrt.htm
2 Illinois Prairie Path Illinois
The Illinois Prairie Path, located 25 miles west of Chicago, was the first rail line to be converted into a rail-trail. This trail is paved and has five trail segments with three main branches—61 miles total. In 2008, the Prairie Path was inducted into the Rail-Trail Hall of Fame, an honor given to trails based on high use, scenic and historical value, and excellent maintenance and trailside amenities. The trail crosses the Des Plaines River, passes trailside museums, and winds through forests, wetlands, and—of course—patches of prairie. Parts of the trail are so rural and wooded that riders may forget they are in a Chicago suburb. π www.co.dupage.il.us/bikeways
3 Virginia Creeper Trail Virginia
The Virginia Creeper is one of the nation’s most popular rail-trails, and for good reason. Located in southwestern Virginia near the North Carolina border, this 35-mile trail crosses high trestles and bridges originally built for the Virginia-Carolina Railway, offering scenic views and a challenging ride. This trail is known for extreme elevations (it rises over 2000 feet) and can be grueling for beginners. But shuttles are available to take bikers up the steepest hills or back to the trailhead. Because of its rough terrain, mountain bikes and hybrid tires are recommended for the Creeper’s dusty path. For a taste of the Creeper’s history, visitors can check out the steam engine, cabooses, and restored railroad stations along the trail.
4 Burke-Gilman Trail Washington
If you’re visiting Seattle, escape the bustle of the city for a day by exploring the 17-mile BurkeGilman Trail. Bikers start in northern Seattle and zip past the University of Washington, whiz by lush farmland, and eventually meet up with the Sammamish River. The trail ends within a few blocks of Puget Sound. Another RailTrail Hall of Fame inductee, the Burke-Gilman offers city skyline, ocean, and river vistas. Stop at one of the parks, beaches, or historical landmarks for a taste of Seattle’s local flavor. Speaking of local flavor—feel free to pick the wild blackberries and apples that grow along the trail near the University of Washington campus.
Virginia Creeper Trail
π www.cityofseattle.net/parks/ BurkeGilman/bgtrail.htm
5 Union Pacific Rail Trail State Park Utah
For a new look at a popular skiresort mountain destination, check out the Union Pacific Rail Trail, which begins (or ends) in Park City, Utah. Like other railtrails, the 28-mile Union Pacific is open to runners, horseback riders, and hikers, but the trail is most popular among mountain bikers. The trail follows the Weber River to Echo Reservoir and offers big-sky views and mountain scenery. Riders are in the sun most of the time, so make sure to take plenty of water and sunscreen, and take a dip in the reservoir to cool off.
Burke-Gilman Trail in Seattle `
π www.stateparks.utah.gov/parks/ historic-union
—Sara D. Smith
π www.virginia.org/site/features.asp?featureid=361
Union Pacific Rail Trail in Utah
away for a weekend
The phrase “spring has sprung” instills fear into the hearts of many winter sports lovers. To extend the adventure of winter during the early spring months, the small northern Utah towns of Francis, Kamas, and Oakley offer recreational activities that will satisfy nearly any winter sport hunger. Early Spring Activities
Each year, two highways are closed to cars because of winter weather. Highway 35, known as Wolf Creek Pass, is 68.3 miles long and stretches between Francis and Duchesne, Utah. The 25 miles between Kamas and Hanna are closed through early spring. Since the pass was paved only in 2002, the road does not show up on many maps and is not heavily trafficked. State Route 150, or Mirror Lake Scenic Highway, spans about 55 miles starting outside of Kamas and ending 33 miles from Evanston, Wyoming. During winter and early spring, it is closed to cars for a 34-mile stretch. Snowy, closed-off highways can mean only one thing: a whole lot of fun on snowmobiles, crosscountry skis, and snowshoes. By early- to midspring, the big winter storms have subsided, the weather has warmed up, and these roads are often closed well into April, depending on the yearly snowfall. These conditions make the area an ideal recreation spot for spring travelers who are not quite ready for winter to end. While skiing or snowmobiling along the highways, you may be tempted to explore the vast open fields that lie directly off these roads. But don’t travel these areas alone: traversing the deep snow in the woods may be a lot of fun but may also increase your chances of getting stuck or lost. 22 >> S pr i ng 2011
Late Spring Activities
In addition to early springtime snow activities, the highways provide yearlong access to various outdoor pleasures, including wildlife watching, fishing, hiking, camping, and scenic driving. The Smith and Morehouse campgrounds have RV, tent, and group sites and are located near a reservoir that provides excellent fishing. Deer, moose, and bears have all been spotted in this area. In mid-June, Mirror Lake Highway hosts a two-day bike ride called the High Uintas Classic. The race, starting in Kamas and ending in Evanston, is divided into competitive sections by age and sex. You can also choose between an 80-mile course and a 47-mile course. This year the High Uintas Classic will be held June 18–19.
Road Island Diner
To refuel after your outdoor adventure, check out the Road
Photography by Kristi Major, except top left photo and bottom right photo Courtesy of Evanston Cycling Club
WHEN SPRING STARTS LATE
Island Diner located nearby in the quaint town of Oakley. This famous diner has a long history. Manufactured in New Jersey, it was exhibited in the 1939 World’s Fair in New York. Later it was towed to Massachusetts, where it operated for 14 years. Then it was taken to Rhode Island and was operated by four generations of an Italian family. Finally, it was transported across the country to Oakley in 2007. The diner was officially added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2009 and won the 2010 Utah Best of State award as the best museum attraction in the state of Utah. Unlike many other diners in operation today, this diner still structurally and cosmetically represents what the diner would have looked like when it rolled out of the factory in 1939. The only modern additions to the diner are tabletop remote jukeboxes, flat screen TVs, and air conditioning. The diner allows customers to be creative with their burgers and top them with just about anything. A favorite is the Rodeo Burger, named for the Oakley Rodeo; it is deliciously topped with onion rings and barbeque sauce. Visit this diner for some tasty food and for more information about its fascinating history. —Trevor Redd
Bottom Left: The Mirror Lake Highway is named after the stunning Mirror Lake that it runs along. Top Left: Each June, bikers gather for a two-day bike ride that starts in Kamas, Utah, and ends in Evanston, Wyoming. Top Middle: Elk are just one of the many different types of wildlife seen in the area. Top Right: Springtime snow makes snowshoeing warm and enjoyable. Right Middle: Small town Francis, Utah, is home to livestock and the entrance to the Wolf Creek Pass. Bottom Right: Bikers race along the Mirror Lake Highway.
Find out more about camping sites, local weather, restaurants, and great deals Bear River Lodge Camping, snowmobile rentals, and more: 800-559-1121 π www.bearriverlodge.com
Francis π www.francisutah.org
High Uintas Classic π www.evanstoncycling.org/HighUintasClassic.html
Kamas π www.kamascity.net
Mirror Lake Highway π www.utah.com/byways/mirror_lake.htm
Road Island Diner 435-783-3467 π www.roadislanddiner.com
Weller Recreation ATV, Snowmobile, Motorbike Repairs/Rentals 435-783-4718 π www.wellerrec.com/default.asp
Funny how someone youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve yet to meet can teach you a lot about who you are.
800.424.8580 www.peacecorps.gov 24 >> S pr i ng 2011
Life is calling. How far will you go?
away for a week
LORD OF THE SPRING
When the cold weather finally retreats and the first heat wave hits, the same ailment consumes everyone: spring fever! There’s no better way to treat this virus than to spend a week in Whatcom County, Washington. Whatcom County, one of our nation’s berry capitals, is known for its beautiful scenery and vast opportunities to enjoy nature. And because its borders reach into Canada, you can celebrate the warming weather in two different countries! Seafood Serenity
Cast your nets! Whatcom County covers the coastline of the northwest corner of Washington, providing excellent opportunities for reeling in seafood. The town of Birch Bay is famous for its crabbing sites that yield crab generously, so there’s no chance of going home empty-netted. To add to your catch, visit the neighboring town of Blaine for excellent deep-sea fishing and clamming. But make sure to bring some rain boots or other shoes that are easy to clean since clamming is a sandy and dirty business.
Photography by misha young
Whale of a Time
Across the bay from Blaine lie the San Juan Islands and Vancouver, Canada, which are excellent places for whale watching. Tour boats dot the sea from March through October, when tourists can spot pods of whales that number in the hundreds. In the rare case that you don’t see any whales, some tours provide rain checks. Beyond whale watching, there is plenty of other wildlife that is fun to watch, including sea lions, dolphins, and various species of birds. If this still doesn’t suffice, Vancouver boasts the largest aquarium in Canada, which houses exotic and endangered animals like Beluga whales.
Land Ahoy!
On the return to shore, check out the beautiful trails throughout Northern Washington and Vancouver that are available to hikers of all abilities. Many trails are renowned for their wooded scenery and magnificent waterfalls. Lake Troop Trail is an easy two-mile hike that carves through deep forest and loops around Canyon Lake. After a rejuvenating hike, you can spend the evening soaking in the cultural richness of Vancouver’s China Town Night Markets. These night markets run from May through September and give guests an opportunity to amble through the alleys, enjoying a night filled with exotic food, music, and shops.
Tulip Tours
As your week in Washington and Canada continues, remember to take a peek at the Skagit Tulip Festival in Bellingham during the month of April. It is one of the most stunning and colorful tulip festivals in the West, with endless fields of tulips of every color. The festival is every photographer’s dream, so be sure to have extra memory cards close at hand. Fun concerts and salmon barbeques surround the festival, so leave plenty of room for food and plan some extra time to soak in the fun atmosphere of the Northwest. For more information about fun and free ideas of what to do in and around Whatcom County, visit the following website: π www.tourismvancouver.com/visitors/things_to_do
—Kristen Hutchings
Top Right: A local resident hauling in the day’s catch from a pier in Blaine; Bottom RIght: A Mount Baker trail, one of the many scenic hikes available in Whatcom
away for a week
New York City
Big Apple, Small Price A trip to New York City is a pilgrimage that every American must make. It’s a city packed with life, history, and culture. In light of all that New York has to offer, many people pledge to go there someday, only to be thwarted by one factor: cost. Sure, New York is not cheap, but New Yorkers and wellinformed tourists know that some of the best attractions are free. So once you have exhausted your budget on a Broadway show or a Statue of Liberty tour—or if you can’t afford these attractions in the first place—here are some ideas to get the biggest bite out of the Big Apple without having to pull out your wallet.
Left Photo by Konstantin Scholl, Flickr; Right from top photos by martha ostergar, katmere, flickr, dnewman8, FLickr
Not Your Average Walk in the Park
To escape the noise and bustle of the busy streets, step right in to New York City’s 843-acre oasis: Central Park. You can make your way to the park’s free conservatory tour, where tour guides can tell you about the park’s history and its landmarks: the famed Alice in Wonderland statue, the magnificent Angel in the Water Fountain, and the picturesque Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir. The literary-minded will appreciate the park’s Literary Walk, which features statues of famous writers such as Shakespeare and Robert Burns. And before you leave the park, don’t forget to check out Belvedere Castle—probably the most whimsical of Central Park’s monuments. Designed as a Victorian fantasy house in 1865, the castle includes a nature conservatory and even a weather station. It also features breathtaking panoramic views of the park. But Central Park is not only known for its scenic routes and landmarks. Famed actors and even the New York Philharmonic Orchestra make free debuts with Shakespeare in the Park and the Philharmonic in the Park. You can either wait in a line or sign up for free tickets at www.publictheatre.org. Keep in mind that the park hosts other free performances, children’s activities, classes, and tours. For more information, go to www.centralpark.com. Although some of the park’s events include a fee, the free events are clearly marked.
A Must-See Water Voyage
Don’t have enough money to go up the Statue of Liberty or visit Ellis Island? The free Staten Island Ferry is your next best option. This ferry provides transportation for sixty thousand commuters from Lower Manhattan to Staten Island each day, but that doesn’t mean that tourists can’t hitch a free ride as well. Enjoy the iconic view of the New York harbor and the skyscrapers of the Lower Manhattan skyline. The ferry is just a half-hour ride one way, and you can go back and forth as many times as you wish. It’s also open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, for your convenience. π www.siferry.com
the shoulder of artists doing sketches on site. Explore the archaeological wonders of ancient China, Egypt, and Africa, and be sure to look at the famed world costume and armor exhibits. Few museums around the globe can compare with this one. π www.metmuseum.org
Do More than Just Check Out a Book
When the New York Public Library opened in 1911, it was the largest marble building in the United States and was deemed an architectural masterpiece. Today, with over twenty million books on site, the library is one of the leading research centers in the world. From Tuesday through Saturday, there is a free hour-long tour of the building’s highlights that include Astor Hall, the Rose Reading Room, and the McGraw Rotunda. Astor Hall is a magnificent embodiment of classical architecture, welcoming visitors with its grand stairways and 37-foot vaulted ceiling. The Rose Reading Room is an ornately decorated hall that covers an area of two city blocks and provides a solitary place to study. Close by is the McGraw Rotunda, featuring a mural showing the history of the written word and a Gutenburg Bible right around the corner! Whether you are interested in the library’s architecture, exhibits, or artwork, you won’t be disappointed. π www.nypl.org —Sarah Shumway
One of America’s Greatest Cultural Treasures
Referred to as the “Met,” the Metropolitan Museum of Art is on par with the Louvre and the London National Gallery. With over two million pieces on display and a myriad of art exhibits to choose from, the Met has something for everyone. Stroll through the galleries featuring Monet, Rembrandt, and Picasso, and peek over
Left: Central Park; top: A view of the Statue of Liberty from the Statten Island Ferry; middle: A view of the Met; bottom: A lion statue outside the New York Public Library.
Ready to travel? Don’t let classes stop you from studying abroad, going home, or taking that long overdue road trip with your friends. With BYU Independent Study, you get the freedom to travel while earning credits you need to graduate. Who says that you can’t be successful in school and have fun? Sign up for courses at any time, with up to a full year to complete them. Set your own deadlines and create your own schedule. You can even look at the syllabus before you enroll so you know exactly what you’ll be doing. Don’t let a couple of credits hold you back from freedom.
28 >> Spr i ng 2011
1-800-914-8931 elearn.byu.edu
away for a while
TREASURES OF HAWAII
Hawaii is a popular vacation spot full of amazing sights and family-friendly activities. While there are many touristy areas to choose from, here are three attractions in the Hawaiian Islands that enable you to catch your breath, take in scenery, and enjoy the outdoors. Oahu: Diamond Head
photography by Megan McWhorter
Although the Diamond Head volcano has nothing to do with diamonds, the view from the summit is still a beautiful attraction worth seeing. In the nineteenth century, English explorers mistakenly thought that some calcite crystals in the rock were diamonds. When they discovered otherwise, the name had already stuck. The volcanic crater is clearly visible from Honolulu, rising 762 feet above sea level. Scientists believe that about 300,000 years ago, a volcanic eruption formed the crater we see today. Tourists can travel during daylight hours to the volcano and hike to the top. The hike starts with a paved trail of switchbacks and a few steep staircases that lead up to the viewing area. From the top you can see all of Honolulu, including the sparkling ocean water that appears bluer than ever from this height. The hike is just under a mile from start to finish. Tips: Water is available at the base, and it’s a good idea to take some with you on this hot and humid hike. Definitely bring supportive shoes because flipflops aren’t going to cut it! The entrance fee into the park is $5 per car.
Kauai: Na`Aina Kai Botanical Gardens
These gardens are located in Kauai. Na`Aina Kai means “Lands by the Sea” in Hawaiian. The gardens span over 240 acres of land with rare and diverse types of flora and fauna. The acreage of the gardens allows for several different sections of the land to highlight various aspects of nature: carnivorous flowers, desert plants, marshy areas, beach, forest, and a maze designed with thick hedges and a children’s area. Visitors will get a taste of all types of Hawaiian plant life as they view flowers and trees that can’t be seen elsewhere. Tips: Visitors must travel through the gardens on guided tours that last anywhere from 90 minutes to 5 hours. Make a reservation for a guided tour beforehand, even though the gardens do accommodate unexpected visitors. You can choose between walking tours or riding tours, all at various prices. π www.naainakai.org
Maui: The Road to Hana
The Road to Hana is a famous highway that extends over 100 miles on the east side of Maui. Travelers drive the highway to see the fantastic natural sites along the way, including gorgeous waterfalls, rainforests, and beaches, as well as a contrasting desert climate. The city of Hana is located at the apex of the uphill drive and is known as the midpoint of the road. Beyond Hana is a must-see: the Haleakala National Park that hosts the Seven Sacred Pools as well as incredible black-sand beaches. Beyond the national park, a dirt road traverses the barren desert. The shock of this natural desert climate is overwhelming after traveling through thick rainforests. But never fear: at the end of the dirt road is an amazing view of the water on the south side of the island.
Tips: Bring snacks, drinks, bug repellent, sunscreen, sunglasses, a camera, and swim gear. Don’t hesitate to stop along the way to stretch your legs, enjoy the breathtaking scenery, and take a few pictures. If possible, leave early in the morning to beat the traffic, to avoid the afternoon heat, and to be off the road before dark. The whole journey will likely take all day. —Megan McWhorter
Top: The view from the top of the volcano is definitely worth the climb! Right: Beautiful Hawaiian flower: Put one in your hair to become a true Hawaiian. w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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away for a while
Santa Ana Hill, with a scattering of houses that make up the neighborhood Las Peñas, is an icon of the city of Guayaquil.
Located on the western coast of South America, the beautiful country of Ecuador has a lot to offer. Whether you are looking to experience city life, get a tan at the beach, or escape to a fairy-tale land, Ecuador has it all. Here’s a look at three cities that offer different perspectives on a country that is rich in culture and diversity. Guayaquil
A native girl of Otavalo shops at the market on a Saturday morning. 30 >> S pr i ng 2011
The coastal city of Guayaquil is lively and charming, and the downtown area is a great place to kick off your vacation. A must-see is Parque Bolivar, more commonly known as Iguana Park. This lush park is filled with friendly iguanas that are used to visitors and are easily lured from the trees to pose for pictures. Surrounding the park is some of Guayaquil’s most beautiful architecture, including one of the city’s focal points—the Metropolitan Cathedral. This neo-gothic cathedral, open to the public, offers a glimpse of the city’s rich history. Another attraction worth visiting is Las Peñas, Guayaquil’s oldest neighborhood. This historic area, located on Santa Ana hill, is a maze of quaint, brightly colored houses that line the narrow, winding streets. The houses are no longer residences but are now filled with art galleries, shops, and restaurants. Take your time wandering through the streets of Las Peñas until you reach El Faro, the lighthouse at the top of the hill that overlooks the city and the Guayas River.
If you are trying to escape the hustle and bustle of the downtown area and want to catch a glimpse of what everyday life is like for a guayaquileño, you can take advantage of the city’s public transportation system and go exploring. The Metro Via will take you to the suburbs of Guayaquil, where you can get a flavor for the laid-back, fun-loving atmosphere of this coastal city.
Salinas After a few days of touring the bustling city of Guayaquil, you may be ready to relax in a tropical location—and you need not travel far. A mere two-hour bus ride will take you to the beach town of Salinas. Located on the
top Photo by jonathan carvaca; bottom photo by Yves picq, wikimedia commons opposite Page: left photo by alfredo molina, wikimedia commons; right photo by Christian Mehlführer, WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
ESCAPE TO ECUADOR
Boaters and sunbathers enjoy the sunshine and the ocean breeze of the Salinas Coast.
Iguanas are commonly found in the coastal cities of Ecuador.
peninsula of Ecuador, Salinas is well known for its pristine beaches and delicious seafood. The shore is lined with hotels, where you can choose to shell out the big bucks or save on cash. Regardless of price, you will have a beautiful view of the ocean. You can fill your days with boating, jet skiing, hang gliding, or just relaxing on the beach. Try some of the fresh seafood—your pick of fish, shrimp, lobster, crab, or oysters. It’s all delicious and affordable.
of Otavalo. Located in the Andes Mountains, Otavalo and its surrounding villages are home to the country’s indigenous people. The cottages and cobblestone streets will make you feel like you have been transported into a fairy tale. The natives of Otavalo are kind and hospitable, and they deeply value their cultural roots. You will get to know the natives a little better on Saturday morning when the town center transforms into a thriving market. By the crack of dawn each Saturday, the streets are replete with locals selling beautiful jewelry, handicrafts, and textiles. If you are looking for a more tranquil setting, you can hop on a bus and head to the village of San Pablo. This scenic village is known for its crystal-clear lakes surrounded by mountains and volcanoes. You can enjoy the view as you go for a boat ride and soak in the beauty of Mother Nature.
Otavalo After your time at the coast, you can finish off your vacation in the northern part of Ecuador, also known as La Sierra. Just fifty miles north of the capital city of Quito lies the picturesque town
πwww.ecuador.us πwww.ecuador.com
Find yourself in the Alps
—Julie Davis
Alpenwild.com
801.226.9026
Candice Candids Candice McWhorter Photography
capturethephoto.blogspot.com Phone: 801.885.5430 Email: info@candicecandids.com
Features A Mythic Wonder >> Who built Stonehenge, and
why? Learn the myths and legends surrounding this mystery and decide for yourself. page 40
The River Walk >> Experience the heart of San
Antonio by uncovering the city’s hidden treasure. page 46
Scream Machines >> Discover the best scream
Photo by katie roberts
machines roller coaster heaven has to offer. page 51
Jamghat’s Gift >> See what one volun-
teer learned while teaching children in New Delhi and immersing herself in India’s culture. page 34
s ’ t a h g m a J Gift C
ries of “Don’t go! Don’t go!” filled Katie’s ears. Skinny, ragged children crowded around her, each hoping to give her one last hug. They passed her camera around the classroom, squeezing as many memories into it as they could. Eight weeks in Delhi at the Jamghat center for street children had flown by in a rush of math lessons and hygiene talks. Katie’s countless hours volunteering with these disadvantaged children had been a labor of love as she helped them develop life skills that would get them off the streets. Gazing around the classroom, Katie saw Ahmed smiling with the other students, and she thought about all of their lessons together. Though she had come prepared to teach, Katie had not expected to learn so much from Ahmed. She had worked with many kids, but this special boy had helped her realize that, as Katie says, “everyone excels at something, even if you don’t see it right off the bat.”
Discovering Jamghat
Rewind seven months to the middle of January. Katie Rogers decided to find a way 34 >> Spr i ng 2011
to make a difference in the world. She had earned her bachelor’s degree in vocal performance at BYU–Idaho and was ready to branch out from her hometown of Tremonton, Utah, to explore the world. “I had wanted to do something like a volunteer program for a long time,” she says. “I spent two weeks searching online and finally came across Volunteering Solutions.” After considering her financial limitations, this organization connected her with Jamghat, a small preparatory school for homeless children in Delhi, India. Katie’s summer was instantly booked. Fast forward to May. After four months of studying Hindi, Katie arrived in New Delhi, ready for an adventure. Katie and the other volunteers were led to the center through a bustling pigeon market and down a small alley in the heart of Old Delhi. As she climbed up a narrow staircase and stepped into the second-story room with low ceilings, she was not prepared for the sight that met her eyes. Katie had imagined “an open courtyard with kids playing around—like you see in films or documentaries. That’s not what I got.” What she got was a dirty twelve- by
photo courtesy of the jamghat center
by Darcie Jensen
twenty-foot room crammed with lockers, posters, and boxes of supplies. Everything and everyone was grimy in the humid India heat. Katie quickly forgot the filth, however, as the group of nearly thirty smiling children turned to greet her. Shouts of “Hi, didi!” or “Hi, big sister!” filled the air, and the teaching began.
A Diamond in the Rough Katie met Ahmed and Mubarak soon after arriving at Jamghat, which is a Hindi word for “a lively gathering.” These brothers were twelve and fourteen years old respectively and were two of the older students at the
center. As she worked with them, a special bond formed. “I spent pretty much the whole time working with those two boys who I believe were too smart not to go to school,” she says. Katie and Ahmed became especially close. Though every student called Katie “didi,” or big sister, Ahmed began grabbing her hand and saying, “My didi” as soon as she entered the classroom. Ahmed had been dismissed as clumsy and goofy by some of the Indian volunteers, so he had been shifted aside during lessons for students who they thought had more potential. Katie discovered otherwise. “He was a genius. It took him only two days to
Outside on the school stairs, Jamghat kids share their enthusiasm for learning.
Far left: School at Jamghat is so much fun when you have a brother to play with! Top left: Ahmed smiles while enjoying his lunchtime meal. Bottom left: Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in Delhi, lies a few blocks away from Jamghat. The students pause respectfully each day when they hear the calls to prayer.
I came back so changed. I think a lot about my blessings now. I see how easy life is here, how simple life is. teed middle-class or lower-middle-class life.” Although public education is free, the schools require that students come with all of their own supplies and uniforms. Some children’s families, like Ahmed’s, are too 36 >> Spr i ng 2011
poor to fund their schooling—even though the cost equates to only about twenty American dollars per month. For poor children like Ahmed, Jamghat provides some semblance of an education while trying to raise money to sponsor them.
School for Ahmed
After three weeks of working with Ahmed, Katie finally asked him why he wasn’t already in a public school. “It was the first time I had questioned Ahmed about why he wasn’t in school. He got flustered and didn’t give me a straight answer. I asked, ‘Don’t you want to be in school?’ and he said, ‘Yes.’” Ahmed finally explained that he knew his family couldn’t help, and he was too shy to ask Jamghat for help. “I realized that this kid wanted to go to school and decided that if Jamghat couldn’t send him to school, I could. It’s under 20 dollars a month to sponsor a child at a public school. When I told him that he was going to school and that if Jamghat wouldn’t do it, I
Photography by Katie Roberts
learn how to divide,” she says. “I’m not that great of a teacher and there was definitely a language barrier, but he still learned how to divide.” Katie knew that Ahmed had been overlooked and needed to be placed in a public school. In a country where only 66 percent of the population is literate, having an education opens many doors. “Everybody wants an education,” Katie explains. “If you go to a public school, you’re almost guaran-
Center: Katie and Ahmed take a break, both glad to be inside learning rather than outside on the crowded streets. Top right: Katie smiles with two girls on her last day at Jamghat. Bottom right: A boy who was wounded in the streets manages to study despite his injuries. Far right: Ahmed waits at Jamghat before leaving for his first day of public school.
would, he got so excited. His face was glowing. After that, he was much more hopeful. And he was trusting in me because I was his didi—I was his sister.” In the following weeks, Katie helped Ahmed prove to Jamghat that he was smart enough for public school, and she became his sponsor. Before she left, she was fortunate enough to see the fruits of her labors: Ahmed off to his first day of public school, dressed in a new uniform and carrying a backpack of school supplies. “On the first day, Ahmed was at the top of his class,” Katie says. “They were so impressed. Because he was quiet, no one ever paid any attention to him. But he was the smartest kid there [at Jamghat].” With Katie’s help, Ahmed took flight.
Remembering the Lively Gathering
Back in the States, Katie looks back on her days at Jamghat with love and hope. Leaving her new little brothers and sisters was difficult, but she keeps tabs on all of them, especially Ahmed, through Facebook with
one of the site coordinators. Even though she is now thousands of miles away, Katie continues her efforts to raise awareness about Jamghat by finding people who will donate time and money to the school. Since Jamghat’s funding comes mainly from selling handmade bags that a tailor makes for the school, there is no guarantee that the school will ever have a consistent budget. Katie’s efforts mean a great deal to the school. Near tears, Katie says, “I came back so changed. I think a lot about my blessings now. I see how easy life is here, how simple life is.” When given the right opportunities, these seemingly harsh children softened and showed that they could change. Although she had left home to make her mark on the world by teaching impoverished children, two months in a dilapidated classroom had left a mark on her: the knowledge that everyone can be successful—if only they are given encouragement to spread their wings and try. π www.jamghatfamily.blogspot.com
w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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live
Photo by Hamed Saber, Flickr
without limits, fears, or regrets.
Make your next vacation a visit to New Zealand’s scenic mountainside.
Stowaway WINTER 2011
EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.
NEW ZEALAND Travel Like a Kiwi
In Stowaway’s Winter 2011 issue.
Stowaway www.stowawaymag.com
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE 8 Tips for Planning a Trip Q&A with a Citizen of the World Roseberry, Idaho’s Little Finland
â&#x20AC;&#x153;It stands as lonely in history as it does on the great plain, whose many-tinted green waves, as they roll away from it, seem to symbolize the ebb of the long centuries which have left it so portentously unexplained.â&#x20AC;?
~Henry James 4 0 >> S pr i ng 2011
Aythic
M W onder by Heather Walker
S
tonehenge is a place of mystery and intrigue. This majestic structure, which once radiated order and architectural precision, now lies in ruins, enshrouded in its own echoing legend. Each of its stones once had a place in a structure of perfect design, a place and purpose that the world has long forgotten or lostâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and that we may never fully comprehend. This mythical structure was the number-one item on my bucket list. When I visited England on an international study program, I knew that I could not leave without visiting it. I hoped to experience its mystery for myself.
pondered how much effort it would have taken to build such a structure and had speculated about its origin and purpose. Was it a market? A city of the dead? A pagan cathedral? A temple of the sun? Of course, my musings didn’t reveal anything reliable, but my daydreams were fun and the experience inspired me to further explore the lore of Stonehenge. I wanted to discover if any of the myths had any basis in history.
Sunrise at Stonehenge It was early on a chilly, gray morning in mid-June. The sun was just barely coming up over the chalky landscape when my group arrived. Since we were surrounded only by acres of dewy, windswept grass, I could see the stones from a quarter-mile away. They seemed unexpectedly small until we came to stand right next to them. As I stood among those massive boulders, I felt a surge of curiosity. I wanted to know everything about Stonehenge—its true history. I wanted to meet the people who had labored to build this now weather-worn and crumbling monument and who may have worshipped here in years past. My overactive imagination filled my mind with images of cloaked druids meeting in worshipful reverence and of Roman soldiers milling around campfires or falling in line for drills. Every tourist who had ever stood in the spot where I stood then flitted before my eyes like a historical montage: men and women of all ages, wearing everything from top hats to baseball caps, from petticoats to blue jeans. I wondered whether they, too, had 4 2 >> S pr i ng 2011
The story of Stonehenge began so long ago that its true beginnings were probably forgotten even by classical times. In the surviving Greek and Roman literature, Stonehenge is hardly mentioned. When Roman soldiers first invaded Britain around 55 BC, they likely paid it little reverence, content in the fact that Rome had her own temples. Yet even from this vantage point, the Romans obviously respected the enigmatic stone circle enough to leave it virtually intact. But whatever the Greeks or Romans believed about Stonehenge, it wasn’t until the Middle Ages—with its increased cultural tendency to believe in superstition and mystery—that interest piqued in the mysterious stone structure. Along with such marveling came a desire to attribute a history to its stony features; as a result, many speculations began to surface. Some writings likely originate from as early as the sixth century. These early writers told of giants who carried the stones to Ireland from the farthest ends of Africa, a myth that was among the earliest rumors of Stonehenge’s origins. Arthurian legends suggest that Merlin, with his mighty magic, whisked the stones from their place in Ireland and set them to rest in Wiltshire, England. Other stories claim that King Arthur and Merlin decreed the building of Stonehenge as a monument to fallen nobles in recent wars with the Saxons. Among other references to the great King Arthur, other writings whispered that Uther Pendragon, Arthur’s father, had been long ago buried at Stonehenge, along with the renowned Emperor Constantine. During the Dark Ages, these tales were among the most popular explanations of its origins.
Druids and Neolithics By the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, Enlightenment scholars were debunking such fantastical stories. The story of Merlin became just a fable, and he become more of a legendary than a historical figure. During these centuries, and even continuing into modern times, plausible
Left PHoto by jon smith; RIGHt photo by bess hayes; previous page: photo by Andy Powell, Flickr
Roman and Arthurian Legends
anyways, the Druids, who would have built Stonehenge as a temple or some other kind of sacred site, worshipped in forest temples and had no real need for stone structures. Many other ancient civilizations have been credited with building Stonehenge, yet the evidence has not been compelling enough to offer any definite answers. The best supposition seems to be that the Stonehenge site was begun by the people
of the late Neolithic period (approximately 3000 BC) and carried forward by people from a new economy arising at the time. Some think that these new Britons may have been immigrants from the continent, although that contention is not supported by archaeological evidence. It is more probable that they were an indigenous people using the technique of building with quarried stone in impressive new ways.
Make Your Own Discoveries I have never been more awestruck by a manmade structure. Whoever built Stonehenge—and for whatever end—has left a timeless gift for the world to see. Everyone should personally discover the beauty and wonder that can come from man’s ingenuity.
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top photo by W. Seto, Flickr; bottom photo by Bess Hayes (Bottom)
explanations were set forward by great minds around the world. Some claimed that the construction of Stonehenge should be attributed to the ancient Druids, a Celtic priesthood that flourished around the time of its construction. That myth of Druidic attribution still endures today. Along with it exists the idea that Stonehenge was a temple for the worship of ancient deities of the earth, complete with pagan rituals and bloody human sacrifices. Yet this theory is improbable, given that by the onset of the Druids’ popularity, the stones had already been standing for two thousand years and would have already experienced severe weathering and erosion. And
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The River Walk San Antonio’s Hidden Treasure
by Rachel Bauer
“Did you see it?” asked Steve Thurgood’s dad nine years ago.
“It” is Paseo del Rio, or the River Walk, San Antonio’s own two-and-a-half-mile stretch of Veniceinspired charm and excitement that runs through downtown San Antonio. It is easy to miss because it is partially hidden by the buildings and by the streets that bridge over the river. Eighty-nine years ago, the city developers nearly rerouted the San Antonio River because of flooding, but architect Robert H. H. Hugman proposed a system of floodgates that would protect the city. Hugman’s plan transformed the riverbanks into a delightful array of cafés, boutiques, shops, restaurants, hotels, and boat rides. “If you didn’t know there was a river running through the city, you wouldn’t find it because it’s hidden by trees and buildings,” Steve says. Visitors to San Antonio expect to find the Alamo, cowboys with accents, and a desert with tumbleweeds. However, the River Walk offers a surprising vision of San Antonio, complete with cobblestone walkways, flowing fountains, delicately arching bridges, and old-fashioned street lamps. The River Walk is now one of Steve’s favorite places in San Antonio. Whenever friends come to visit his family, he says, “the first thing we show them is the River Walk—it’s the best thing San Antonio has to offer.”
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The River Walk, however, is more than a beautiful destination; it also boasts a unique personality and a welcoming atmosphere. “You walk down the sidewalk and there are people standing outside their restaurants trying to get business,” he says, “but they also just talk to you. It’s a really friendly atmosphere . . . There are people walking around in costumes, just making people smile.” A major contributor to the unique atmosphere of the River Walk is the Peruvian pan-flute band, Andean Fusion, that plays on the steps of the mall daily. They use their native instruments (pan flutes, drums, and strings) to express the soulsoothing sounds of the Incas. Their harmonious melodies are meant to transform and transport you toward “interior peace” and to help you “feel the life and the beautiful song of mother nature.” The Rivercenter Lagoon, where the band plays, is a lovely place to sit and relax with the help of the peaceful music. If you really enjoy their music, you can purchase one of Andean Fusion’s many CDs while you’re there.
Rio San Antonio Cruise
The best way to enjoy the charm and history of the River Walk is the Rio San Antonio Cruise, a 35-minute guided boat tour of the River Walk.
Photography by Steve thurgood
The Thurgood family had just moved from Delaware to Texas, and they were exploring what their new home, San Antonio, had to offer. Steve looked out the car window and asked in confusion, “See what?”
This four-sided geometric shape, called the quatrefoil, is the symbol for the city of San Antonio. You can find it on buildings, sidewalks, bridges, and fountains along the River Walk and throughout the city. The four leaves of the quatrefoil represent San Antonioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s people, pride, passion, and promise. w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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A friendly tour guide will entertain you with fascinating tidbits from River Walk history. You’ll learn everything you ever wanted to know about the River Walk—a lot of which you probably never would have thought to ask. Each tour guide has his or her own favorite bit of random trivia to point out, so the tours never get old, no matter how many times you take them. One tour guide may point out a tree that was transplanted by a flood and is now growing out of the high branches of another tree. Other tour guides may note the gargoyles on one of the many buildings that line the River Walk. Steve still learns new things on the riverboat tours. “The last time I went,” he says, “the guy pointed out a duck that was the only one of its kind on the River Walk. They’ve even named the duck—Frank.” As the boat sails along, you’ll pass Marriage Island. The “island,” which is not much more than a pretty rock extending out of the water, is the most popular place on the River Walk to get married. In fact, the island averages about one marriage per day. You may even witness
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The Rivercenter Lagoon is a beautiful bend in the river that runs past the Rivercenter Mall.
a marriage as you float past on your tour. That’s what happened last time Steve went on the riverboat tour. “As we were floating by, the bride hadn’t gotten to the pastor yet,” he says, “so the pastor turned around and started joking with us—he offered to marry anyone on the boat if they wanted!”
Shops and Stores
After traveling by boat, you can explore the rest of the River Walk on foot. It isn’t hard to find great shops, galleries, restaurants, and entertainment.
The Shops at La Villita Historic Arts Village offer not only great shopping but also great historical charm. The area is actually San Antonio’s oldest neighborhood: it was originally an outpost of huts for Spanish soldiers who were stationed at the Mission San Antonio de Valero, now known as the Alamo. Visitors can also step into riverside specialty shops like En Fuego Sauce and Salsa, a unique one-stop shop for all things spicy. Those looking for a more mainstream shopping experience can always visit the Rivercenter Mall.
Museums and Galleries
There are also several interesting museums and galleries along and near the River Walk. For a unique experience, visitors can stop by the Buckhorn Saloon and Museum, which includes a wildlife
Taste of the Tour Things you might hear on a Rio San Antonio Cruise: We have 41 new lifejackets on this boat. They have never been used before because no one has ever fallen out. That being said, if you do happen to find yourself in the river today, don’t panic. Just stand up, and walk out of the river. Straight ahead is the Rivercenter Mall with over 135 shops and restaurants—over 1 million square feet of shopping. All of the restaurants on the River Walk have their menus posted outside on the sidewalks. You can eat in the restaurant, outside on the sidewalks or balconies, and you can even eat on the boats! museum and a Texas Rangers museum as well as a café, a gift shop, and even a shooting gallery. The Eclectic Art Gallery offers an unusual variety of original artwork at very reasonable prices. The Briscoe Western Art Museum features a sculpture garden and a beautiful view of the River Walk.
Restaurants
The River Walk experience is incomplete without the delicious food. Steve says that every time he goes to the River Walk, he eats at The Original, the first Mexican restaurant on the River Walk. They claim to have defined San Antonio-style Mexican food, so it has to be good! According to Steve, “lots of people go there for the food alone. I know we do!” In addition to the appetizing meal, there is the festive atmosphere, which includes a live mariachi band and the option of al fresco dining under colorful umbrellas. The River Walk has so much to offer—food, shopping, music, art. But what it’s really all about, according to Steve, is that “it’s nice to kick back and relax for a while . . . It really is the heart of our city.”
The River Walk is drained for cleaning every January. What do you think is the most common item that they find on the river bottom? Silverware!
Andean Fusion, a pan-flute band from Peru, plays their music on the steps of the Rivercenter Mall daily.
San Antonio hosted the World’s Fair in 1968. There wasn’t enough hotel space, so they built the Hilton Palacio del Rio—the palace on the river. It was constructed in a record 221 days—7 months from the day they broke ground until the day the first guests checked in. The rooms were preassembled (furniture, carpeting, and all) 80 miles south of town, shipped here on flatbed trucks, lifted by cranes, and stacked like Legos. The only parts of the hotel that were built on site were the first 4 floors and the elevator shafts. Now look up high on the right side of the boat—the world’s largest frozen margarita machine! And here’s the Arneson River Theater. It seats 800 people on the left, and the stage is on the right. Do you see those 5 bells behind the stage? They represent the first 5 Taco Bells in San Antonio . . . Just kidding! They represent the missions—our 5 Spanish missions. Did you see the movie Miss Congeniality, starring Sandra Bullock? The swimsuit contest was filmed on that stage. π www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com
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Go green this spring.
simple green The Original Green Cleaner www.simplegreen.com 1-800-228-0709
Photography by colin baker
SCREAM MACHINES Roller Coasting at Cedar Point by Colin Baker
I
felt like I was in a disaster film. Shrieks filled the air as the ground quaked beneath my feet. A loud crash, like thunder, pierced the once-quiet atmosphere and disappeared just as quickly. But I didn’t worry; I wasn’t in the middle of a natural disaster. I was at Cedar Point—the roller coaster capital of the world. Or, as roller coaster enthusiasts call it: heaven.
For the uninitiated, Cedar Point is located in Sandusky, Ohio, almost directly between Toledo and Cleveland. Without the amusement park, Sandusky would be a quiet city with scenic views of Lake Erie and little else. However, the presence of one of the world’s premiere thrill parks turns this town into a thriving tourist center, and for good reason. Cedar Point offers visitors some of the most exciting rides humanity has ever devised.
Record-Breaking History
The park opened in 1870, making it the second oldest amusement park in the country. What began as a picnic area with a beer garden, dance floor, and playground structures has exploded into something quite different. With 75 rides in its arsenal, Cedar Point now boasts more rides than any other amusement park on the planet. I fancy myself a thrill-seeker, at least when it comes to roller w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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The Raptor was the first inverted roller coaster at Cedar Point. Visitors experience the ride while suspended underneath the track. Previous page: The Corkscrew twirls riders upside down while crossing a busy midway.
coasters. For me, the taller and faster the ride, the better. That’s what makes Cedar Point such a sought-after destination for people like me. Cedar Point doesn’t build roller coasters just to entertain—they do it to break records. If a roller coaster won’t open as one of the tallest or the fastest in the world, it doesn’t get made. Don’t believe me? Head on out to Cedar Point to see for yourself. The moment you turn onto the bridge leading to the small island that houses the park, you’ll get a perfect view of everything the thrill destination has to offer. Picture a city skyline—only instead of steel skyscrapers, picture terrifyingly intimidating roller coasters, and you get the idea. Make no mistake: this isn’t just some kiddie park. Sure, there’s a small area with small rides for children, but no fluffy mascots or colorful parades divert attention from what truly matters. Instead, the appeal is the colossal structures that send visitors rocketing around the park at unheard-of speeds.
The Main Attractions
When you do make it to Cedar Point, I recommend getting there the moment the park opens and running to one of two attractions: Millennium Force or Top Thrill Dragster. The lines for these two rides form quickly, and on weekends and holidays the wait can last up to two hours—which is totally worth it in my opinion. But why wait if you don’t have to? Millennium Force is my favorite, and it’s one of the easiest rides to spot from a distance. Topping off at a staggering 310 feet, this beast is known at Cedar Point as a “giga” coaster. When it was introduced to the world in 2000, Millennium Force broke ten world
Top Thrill Dragster debuted in 2003 as the tallest roller coaster in the world.
records, claiming the tallest and fastest coaster titles. Prepare to reach speeds of up to 93 miles per hour as you descend the first hill at an 80-degree angle. However, the ride is surprisingly smooth. Despite the intense speed, dizzying heights, and banking turns, riding Millennium Force feels almost like gliding effortlessly through the air. No trip to Cedar Point is complete without a go or two (or three) on this ride. That’s just the first ride on the ideal itinerary. Top Thrill Dragster comes next, and believe it or not, it’s even bigger than Millennium Force. Towering at 420 feet, it dwarfs all other rides in the park. Riders board cars resembling racing dragsters and are shot out of the loading station at speeds exceeding 120 mph. The track angles straight up, stalls slightly at the top of a giant hill, then sends you straight down, before coming to a stop back where you began. The only downside to Top Thrill Dragster is the duration of the ride. At only seventeen seconds, it’s almost over before it begins. Even so, the thrill is too tempting to pass up.
The only downside to Top Thrill Dragster is the duration of the ride. At only seventeen seconds, it’s almost over before it begins. Even so, the thrill is too tempting to pass up.
More than two decades old, Magnum XL-200 usually has a short wait while still providing plenty of speed and drops.
Something for Everyone
After hitting these two rides, you will have to make some real decisions. Cedar Point has a total of seventeen (that’s right, seventeen) roller coasters, and the chances of riding every single one of them in one day is next to impossible. Some rides are better left untouched if time is an issue, like the Disaster Transport. I hesitate to even call it a roller coaster. It’s slow, clunky, and does little more than swerve in and out of what is referred to as a bobsled track. The only redeeming quality for Disaster Transport is the fact that it’s all indoors, so if you need to escape from the heat for a bit, it’s your best bet. There’s something for everyone who likes a good coaster, even if an enormous thrill isn’t what you’re looking for. The Cedar Creek Mine Ride is relaxing, and it won’t leave you breathless like some of the other rides in the park. Blue Streak is a traditional wooden roller coaster, and many w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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Coaster trains for Millennium Force rush by the entrance to the ride.
Even if you’re able to ride all the rides, you’ll only want to ride them again—and by that time, you’ll be the one doing all the screaming.
consider it a classic. If you want to experience a bit of history, that’s the ride for you. Blue Streak is the oldest coaster in the park, and when it opened in 1964, it too broke world records. In between the somewhat mild and the amazingly wild, Cedar Point has plenty of other roller coasters that thrill and delight. Magnum XL-200 stands opposite Millennium Force and was the first coaster in the world to break 200 feet. Raptor sends you whirling through corkscrew loops and cobra rolls. Gemini provides twice the fun by having dueling racing coasters. And as the newest addition to the coaster fun, Maverick has plenty of tricks up its sleeve, including a 95-degree first drop. Yes, you read that correctly—that’s steeper than going straight down. I’ve only scratched the surface with what this park has to offer—there are log flumes, tower drops, pendulum swings, and more traditional
carnival-type rides like bumper cars and swing rides. To get a full look at all the rides, head to www.cedarpoint.com. It all adds up to more than you can handle in a day. I suggest spending at least two days at the park in order to experience everything that’s available, but plan for three if you can spare the time. After all, even if you’re able to ride every coaster Cedar Point has, you’ll only want to ride them again—and by that time, you’ll be the one doing all the screaming.
A “film strip” of bystanders watching as another boat shoots down Snake River Falls. Don’t stand on the bridge if you don’t want to get wet.
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Insider GEAR >> Our top umbrella picks help you stay dry
without cramping your style. page 58
PROFILE >> How seasoned traveler Kendall Wilcox
makes the most of his travel experiences. page 60
JUST THE TICKET >> Quench your anxiety while in
Photo by Geishaboy500, flickr
flight. page 62
TIPS + TRICKS >> Let us show you how to travel smart by traveling light, and how to reach your dream destination at a fraction of the cost. page 56
Tips and Tricks
Travel on a Dime
G
uess what . . . You don’t have to win the lottery to fulfill your dream of visiting the Mayan ruins in Guatemala or of going on a gondola ride in Venice. Your young-adult years are supposed to be a time of exploration and adventure, so start thinking beyond weekend road trips. Here are a few tips to help your traveling dreams become a reality.
Discounts
π www.studentuniverse.com π www.statravel.com π www.vayama.com
Tips for Booking Flights According to Julie Ann Zarbock, international travel agent for Brigham Young University, “The further in advance you know you are going to travel, the better the chance you have of getting a good price.” The best thing to do is to watch airfares over the course of a few weeks and look for trends in price fluctuation. “Generally speaking, airfares go up on the weekends when people have more time to book their flights. You can often find lower prices Tuesday through Thursday.” Most travel websites have some type of farewatcher or fare-tracker feature that can be linked to your e-mail account. You simply choose your departure city and arrival city, and it will alert you when prices drop. Remember that non-stop flights are generally more expensive. If you are willing to have a layover or to travel at odd times, you can find better deals. When booking your flight, don’t forget to take into consideration which airlines charge for checked luggage.
Affordable Accommodations
Best Food
Keep in mind that you don’t need to stay in a Hilton or a Marriott. Your days are going to be filled with exploring and sightseeing at your chosen destination, so all you really need is a comfortable and safe place to spend the night. Most foreign cities have a variety of hostels to choose from. Hostels are generally clean and safe, and most offer a complimentary breakfast. To find a hostel that is right for you, a great resource is the Hostelling International website, which screens hostels around the world and compiles a “pre-approved list” for you to search through. They also sell discount cards for just $28 to anyone ages 18–54. The cards provide all kinds of traveling discounts for booking hostels, visiting museums, purchasing calling cards, etc.
Whether you choose to vacation in Italy, Argentina, or Thailand, the key to finding good, reasonably priced food is to talk with the locals. Ask around for suggestions and stay away from touristy areas where prices tend to be higher. Eating every meal in a restaurant can be pricey, so stop by a local grocery store to stock up on fruits and vegetables, or find a bakery for fresh bread and pastries. When you do eat out, consider making breakfast or lunch your big meal of the day, since dinner prices tend to be significantly higher.
π www.hihostels.com
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—Julie Davis
clockwise, from top Left photos by Julien George, Mattia Luigi Nappi, and Ryan Michael
Student Universe and the Student Travel Association (STA) are two companies that cater to college students by offering travel discounts. Both companies have discounted airfares, and they also offer discounts for hostels, hotels, rental cars, bus passes, tickets to tourist attractions, and much more. STA offers discounts to students as well as anyone under the age of twenty-six. For nonstudent travelers, try the travel website Vayama. It does the work for you by comparing airfares and hotel prices on several travel sites, helping you find the best deal available. Vayama also allows you to book flights with multiple stops, just in case you plan to visit several locations.
Travel Light
Turn Your Carry-on into a Carry-All Location: Baggage check, Frankfurt airport. Number of people in line: 5
Total time to check bag: 1 hour Stress level: Red Zone
My stupid suitcase had been a burden the entire trip. I barely fit it into the taxi, I sat on top of it to fit it in the elevator, and I looked like a fool hauling the beast around. I was in Germany for a week. One week. And I had packed my entire closet. “Why’d I bring all this crap?” I muttered to myself, envying my colleague who was already on the plane. He had packed everything in a carry-on to avoid the hassle of checking a bag. After waiting in the baggage check-in line for an hour and nearly missing my flight, I learned my lesson: I’ll never check a bag again.
ht Bagl when you g i R e se th be 45 inches to.tBa ut always o o h C er d o How tlly a carry-on hsh, aonudl height t-oognetrhegulationsg. and
dt era rry e ba • Gen e length, wi heck the ca eel on h ags. w o c h t t both b e to sier add n a y i r e l r r i ’s a t a c i ur heels; ur one it is to call yo g as yo ace for with w l item than a g b a e b t a a zed to ttle extra sp • Use our person oversi i carry y kpack or an give you a l l c l i a b w a ; this • Use al item person rs. i souven
How to Pack Your Toiletries • Replace your liquids with solids: soap, shampoo, conditioner, lotion, and sunblock all come in solid or powder versions. Walgreens.com has solid shampoo, conditioner, and lotion, and hawaiiantropic.com has solid sunblock. • If you can buy it when you get there, don’t pack it. However, do pack a travel-size tube of toothpaste just in case you get stuck somewhere. • Go low maintenance; leave your hair product, blow dryer, and flat iron at home. After reading these tips, you may feel a little overwhelmed. Take a look at our general packing list to help you get started. You may need to modify our list to better fit your needs.
How to Pack Your Clothes • Pack clothes that reflect the forecast. Sunny? Short sleeves. Rainy? Long sleeves and a jacket. • Color-coordinate all of your clothes; everything should match everything else. • Pack clothes that you can layer. • Wear your bulkiest layers to the airport. • Leave your jewelry at home. If you don’t wear it to the airport, don’t take it. (Ladies, check out auttiedottiewatches.blogspot.com for cute watches that double as bracelets.) • If you might need something, leave it home. Take only what you will need. • Wear comfortable shoes that match every outfit, and take one extra pair of shoes. • Plan to do laundry when you’re there. Travel-size detergent packs make washing items in your hotel sink a breeze.
Packing List
□□ 5 Shirts (wear one or two to airport) □□ 2 or 3 undershirts □□ 1 sweater □□ 2 pairs of pants (wear one to airport) □□ 2 pairs of shoes (wear one to airport) □□ 5 pairs of socks □□ 5 pairs of underwear □□ 1 jacket □□ Brush or comb □□ Toothbrush □□ Travel-size toothpaste □□ Travel-size hand sanitizer □□ Deodorant □□ Medication □□ Camera —Amanda Reschke w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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gear
Stylin’ in the Rain Caught in a spring shower? Stowaway has you covered. Compact Coverage For light and easy travel, Brookstone has you covered. Their Ultra-Slim Umbrella weighs only 6 ounces and folds down to one inch. 40"; $20.
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π www.brookstone.com
Manly Man Brooks Brothers knows how to dress a man, and that includes accessories. The classic plaid pattern of this stick umbrella will make a gentleman of any man. 50½"; $60.
Girly Girl What this umbrella lacks in reasonable price, it makes up for with sassy style. This pagoda parasol protects you from the elements with a splash of femininity. 34"; $129.
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π www.umbrellas.net
π www.brooksbrothers.com
Going Green This beautiful umbrella by Brelli not only withstands rough winds and rain, but it’s also 100% biodegradable. 35", 37", or 52"; $38–62.
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π www.thebrelli.com
5 Sun Block For protection in rain or shine, Cakoon has developed a material that blocks 99.9% of UVA and UVB rays. Additionally, the reflective fabric keeps you cooler on sunny days. 40"–60"; $25–50.
Two, Please The unique design makes traveling in rainstorms no problem for two. Who would have thought an umbrella could be so romantic? 72" x 36"; $44.
π www.raybeth.com
π www.opulatntitems.com
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The Future Look, Ma, no hands! This state-of-the-art umbrella straps onto your shoulders to give you hands-free protection from the elements. $50. π www.nubrella.com
—Martha Ostergar
As not seen on tv.
800.424.8580 www.peacecorps.gov
Life is calling. How far will you go? w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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profile
K
endall Wilcox spends about 30 weeks out of the year traveling as a senior supervising executive producer for BYUTV—and he loves it. “This is the longest I’ve been home since April, going on two and a half weeks. I’m getting a little stir-crazy,” he confides. Whether he’s traveling for work or pleasure, Wilcox has a knack for finding local treasures and delights, delicious food, and interesting art, all off the beaten path. Keeping his ears, eyes, and mind open, Wilcox is able to get to know a location and culture in a refreshing and simple way: by taking everything as it comes.
Stowaway: You’ve traveled all over the world. What are some of your favorite destinations? Kendall Wilcox: Southern India. The food is all that it’s stacked up to be. Everything has stronger and more potent flavors. Those Beatles knew what they were singing about. Portland is my kind of town. It’s a big city, but it’s not. It’s very local in its feeling. It’s community ethos, specifically around food, and is situated around local and seasonal produce. And they’re very big on promoting farmers’ markets around the city that are very robust with a lot of variety. What else . . . I love New York City for all the cliché reasons. Oh, and Transylvania has a soft spot in my heart. Really pretty mountains and forests and villages. I like the chickens there, a lot. I took a lot of pictures of chickens, the black-and-white spotted kind. SA: Most overrated place? KW: I don’t know. I take every place I go at face value. It seems like I’ve had some disappointing experiences where I was like “this is disgusting.” Oh! Las Vegas. I hate Las Vegas. It just 6 0 >> S pr i ng 2011
depresses me. It reflects the sheer mass amount of people who flow through there every year, the amount of money spent out of peoples’ pockets there, to aggrandize and enshrine and worship principles of greed, lucre, slovenliness, raunchiness—and it’s done so blatantly and out in the open. SA: What do you do to stay relaxed when something goes wrong while traveling?
not very happy. I learned to be very calm and insistent, meaning I don’t give up and I don’t take no for an answer, but I do stay calm. I explain what I need to have happen in a way that tells them that I’m not going to leave their desk until it does happen. If I am calm and understanding and use the person’s first name (found on their nametag) while they refuse to do what I’m asking them to do, it works more often. It’s gotten me four first-class bump-ups on trans-Atlantic flights. Not bad. SA: Not bad at all. Tell me something about a really great food experience.
A view of St. Paul’s Cathedral behind Southwark Bridge
KW: I accept that everything always goes wrong, and I stop resisting the fact that it’s going wrong and just say, “Once again, it’s wrong. How do I fix it now?” That’s how I stay calm. SA: So when something inevitably does go wrong, how do you handle it? KW: I used to be pretty demanding and intense, and sometimes I would get my way. But wow, that’s exhausting for me, and it makes other people
KW: Over in Beijing, I followed some local people to the neighborhood breakfast place. It was really dark and dank and stuffy, and there was this vat of what appeared to be one gigantic blob of soy that was surrounded with some sort of brown sauce. They would go in with this knifeshaped scoop and give you a big blob of it and put it in a bowl for you to eat for breakfast. And I tried. I really, really tried. Like two or three mornings in a row. Then I just gave up and went to the fruit stand and bought a banana. The end.
Photogrpahy courtesy of kendall wilcox
Kendall Wilcox: Globetrotter
SA: That’s the end of your story about a great food experience? You couldn’t eat the soy ball? KW: (Leaning forward toward the recorder, speaking like he’s testifying in court.) No, I could not. SA: Is this how you often find good places to eat and things to see, by following locals? KW: Yes. I also ask people. Once when I went to New York City, the theme for that visit was “food and art.” I started out with really great recommendations from friends even before I left. I went to the places they recommended; then I watched other people there. I would try to spot the locals who were excited to be there and ask them what other places they couldn’t live without. They would give me tip after tip. Then I did the same thing at the next place and the next place. I found restaurants this way that are the only places I will eat in New York City now.
nirs that are cliché and obvious for every location. Then I found that I had a gigantic plastic box full of crap. So then I started collecting little seedpods. I like the shape and the color. They’re all nice and neat and displayed in a printer’s drawer that I have in my home. It gets a lot of comments from people. I’ve slowed down on that because now the drawer is full. So now I’ve started to do “three a day” photos on Facebook. I take a lot of pictures every day; then I edit them down to just three because editing is half the battle when you’re an artist. That is a nice way to communicate with friends and family, and now I have those permanent memories posted there.
“I don’t give up, and I don’t take no for an answer.”
SA: I love that idea. What do you leave at home when you travel? KW: Emotional attachments to people. That way you can focus. When you miss them, then you’re sad and you’re not focused on your job.
SA: How do you keep track of your memories while traveling?
SA: What do you never leave home without when you travel?
KW: I take journals, but I haven’t used them much lately. At first, I used to get all the little souve-
KW: An umbrella. Always take an umbrella. You never know. —Martha Ostergar
Photos (from top, moving clockwise): Wilcox in Delft, Netherlands; a view of the iron works in Gare du Nord, Paris; Transylvanian chickens; a view of the North Bank from Thames Path.
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just the ticket
Turbulence Trouble
I
was on a flight from Las Vegas, Nevada, to Salt Lake City, Utah. The plane smoothly sailed across the skies until it hit a rough patch of turbulence. The lights flickered and the plane dropped several feet. My stomach felt like a cheerleader doing cartwheels at a football game. I clenched my fingers around the armrests and sat upright for the rest of the flight, praying that we would make it. Twenty minutes later, everyone clapped as the plane safely touched the ground. Now, every time I feel turbulence on a flight, I immediately latch onto my husband. As he tries to utter words of comfort, I demand, “Don’t talk! Just hold me. Hold me!” If you find flying nerveracking, you’re not alone. In his New York Times article, “For Fear of Flying: Therapy Takes to the Skies,” Tim Murphy emphasizes that about 40 percent of all people have some level of fear about flying.1 People are scared of flying for various reasons: fear of turbulence, tight spaces, sickness, lack of control, and so on. What can be done to relieve stress while flying? Katie Ronshausen, 30, has been a flight attendant for the past ten years, and she is also a certified personal trainer with the American Council on Exercise (ACE). Consider these five tips from Katie on how to survive the flight.
on your finger,” she says. “The balance of gravity will be closer to the eraser because that’s the heaviest end of the pencil.” Clear air turbulence is the irregular movement of unseen air masses and is caused by cold and hot air clashing at varying speeds and directions. These irregular movements cause the bumps that you feel on the plane. “Oftentimes, flight attendants at the front of the plane don’t know how bad the turbulence really is . . . and the pilots don’t either,” Katie says.
Know where to sit. If you fear turbulence troubles, Katie suggests that you sit closer to the front of the plane. This is the plane’s center of gravity, which is the heaviest and most stable part of the plane. “A good analogy would be putting a pencil
Stretch your neck and shoulder muscles. Many people have tension in their upper shoulders and neck muscles because of stress. “A good stretch to do while seated is a side lateral pull,” Katie suggests. “Sit up straight with both feet planted
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Photo by Luis Argerich, flickr
Dealing with Aerophobia
Trust the technology. Planes are built to bend and flex with the air currents. They also have to be inspected regularly in order to be up in the air. Katie believes that people are a lot safer traveling in an airplane than driving in their car. “When you’re in a car, you’re by yourself,” she says. “In the airplane, air dispatchers know what altitude you’re flying at, they know what kind of turbulence you’re going through, and they know who’s coming at you and who’s above you.”
on the floor. Raise your left arm above the head, placing your left hand over your right ear. Using your hand, gently tilt the head to the left, keeping your right shoulder pulling down in the opposite direction. You should feel the stretch immediately in the neck along the ear all the way down into the shoulder. Repeat on the other side.” Stay hydrated. Drink a lot of water. Your muscles function better when you are hydrated. “The more hydrated you are, the more flexible you become,” says Katie. “The more flexible you are, the more stress you can relieve. You’re taking care of your overall health as well.” Most of all, avoid alcohol and caffeine. “They can actually make the situation worse if you’re already stressed,” Katie explains. Take deep breathes. “Sit comfortably and as still as possible and let distractions fade away in the background,” Katie instructs. “Close your eyes and think only about the breaths going in and out. Allow as much air in as possible through the nose, and exhale, taking at least twice as long to let the air out of the lungs. Exhale slowly through the nose. Continue for as long as it takes for the body to release tension and for the mind to slow down and refocus.” —Keri Shurtliff 1. Tim Murphy, “For Fear of Flying: Therapy Takes to the Skies,” Mental Health and Behavior, New York Times, July 24, 2007.
For more information: 801.285.7922 www.sxhu.org
South American
Humanitarian Internships
www.sxhu.org INTERNSHIPS: Southern Cross Humanitarian needs qualified
individuals and couples to provide the children under our care with the important skills and stepping stones to gain selfsufficiency. Internships are located in Peru, Ecuador and Colombia and include room and board. Time for tourism is flexible, but the main purpose of an internship is to work closely with the children and community members ascend out of poverty. Internship Requirements: Ă&#x2030; 4FMG NPUJWBUFE GMFYJCMF NVTU MPWF DIJMESFO BOE IBWF B TUSPOH work ethic Ă&#x2030; .JOJNVN BHF GPS JOUFSOT JT Ă&#x2030; -FOHUI PG *OUFSOTIJQ XFFL NJOJNVN MPOHFS JOUFSOTIJQT are encouraged Ă&#x2030; #BTJD 4QBOJTI QSFGFSSFE
Ă&#x2030; 3FTVNF MFUUFS PG SFDPNNFOEBUJPO GSPN UFBDIFS PS FNQMPZFS and personal interview with member of the Southern Cross &YFDVUJWF #PBSE Ă&#x2030; $PNQMFUF BOE TFOE JO BO *OUFSOTIJQ "QQMJDBUJPO JODMVEJOH DPEF of conduct and liability waiver) Ă&#x2030; .VTU QSPWJEF QSPPG PG DPNQMFUF QIZTJDBM FYBN XJUIJO UIF previous year Ă&#x2030; QSPDFTTJOH GFF BOE B NPOUIMZ DPOUSJCVUJPO UP cover operational costs, room and board Ă&#x2030; *OUFSOT BSF SFTQPOTJCMF GPS QBZJOH BMM USBWFM BOE UPVSJTN expenses, including international and domestic airfare Ă&#x2030; 4VCNJU XFFLMZ CMPH FOUSJFT UP 4PVUIFSO $SPTT XIJMF PO UIF internship. * Expeditions are $1650 excluding airfare. For special group considerations and expeditions please contact Cameron at: Cameron@sxhu.org
For more information: 801.285.7922 www.sxhu.org
Next Stop...
Forever
Destination Weddings
www.greenumbrellaphotography.com info@greenumbrellaphotography.com
Find yourself in the Alps 6 4 >> Spr i ng 2011
Alpenwild.com
801.226.9026
Field Notes PHOTO CONTEST >> We have winners! page 67 TALES FROM THE TRIP >> Two readers tell their travel stories. page 70
OFF THE BEATEN PATH >> See Rome from a runner’s
point of view. page 74
Photo Courtesy of Aubrey Wright
HIGHWAY HIGHLIGHT >> Cure the road-trip blues on I–15 with an adventure at every pit stop. page 76
SERVICE SCENE >> The effort to rebuild
Haiti is getting stronger, one volunteer at a time. page 72
Think local. Act global. When Volunteers return home from making a difference in another country, they bring back real-world skills and experience for their own community.
800.424.8580 www.peacecorps.gov
Life is calling. How far will you go?
Stowaway
Photo Contest Winners
1
st Faces in the Window Tyler Parris Neal, 27 Colorado Springs, Colorado
This photo was taken in the mountain community of Jenda, Rwanda. Because of a genocide in 1996, a high percentage of orphans live in this town. Many people are infected with AIDS. The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s school was established by a Baptist minister, who ran the orphanage as well. I took this photo as we toured one of the classrooms, where about 100 to 150 students would meet in a 30' x 30' room. Taking pictures in Africa has influenced my style ever since, and I will forever be impacted by the people of Rwanda.
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photo contest
2
nd Sand In Your Shoes Danielle Reschke, 17 Salt Lake City, Utah
This picture is a representation of my love of the beach and for my sneakers. The Oregon Coast is my favorite place to visit, and my purple “Chucks” are my favorite pair of shoes. This picture was inspired by the time that I saw the beach for the first time in years, and I pulled my shoes off and ran towards the water. A few minutes later, I realized what a great picture they would make, and I decided to take a snapshot. My favorite element of this photo is the visible texture of the sand.
3
rd Cape Coast Fishing Chris Owen, 25 Surfside, Texas
Along Ghana’s Cape Coast, where the best pineapples in the world grow like weeds, this is a common scene. Brightly colored canoes sit waiting for their owners to come put them to good use as they catch the fish that make up most of the local diet and economy.
6
th Ocean View Callie Manion, 21 Wilton, Connecticut
This photo captures the caves in Morocco that lay beside the sea. You can see the thick darkness on the inside of the caves and the gorgeous sea that surrounds them. It’s easy to get lost inside the caves for a moment, but you’ll always be saved by the glimmer of light leaking in from the outside.
4
th Tribal Traditionalist Chris Owen, 25 Surfside, Texas
Eager to show off her handmade jewelry and body paint, this village traditionalist gets ready for a celebration in Minya, Ghana. In this West African country, where traditional medicine and religion are still practiced, women play an important role in all the community happenings, along with the village elders and chief.
5
th Egyptian Spices Kaley Dawn, 23 Idaho
These spices can be found while walking down an Egyptian Market street, or “Sue-q,” where your eyes are opened to a developing country’s poverty and the bombardment of overly pushy hawkers—both of which are part of the experience that is Egypt. w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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tales from the trip
TALES from the Trip It was 5 a.m. and my dad was dropping my mom and me off at the airport. We were about to begin a journey to Antarctica, that oft-forgotten seventh continent. As Dad unloaded the luggage, we quickly discovered that my suitcases had not made it into the car. With no time to recover the baggage before the flight left, I set off on a threeweek expedition with not so much as a pair of underwear to keep me warm in the belowzero weather. Forgetting the luggage was definitely a bad way to start the trip, but little did I know that things would only get worse. Between home and Antarctica, we had to stop in South America. Our hotel in Ushuaia, Argentina, went up in flames while I was soaking in the bathtub trying to relax after the most turbulent airplane ride of my life. I was yanked from my warm bubbly pool of water and sent down the hallway of smoke with only a towel wrapped around my wet, naked body. My mom and I found a fire escape and burst through the door to an emergency spiral staircase attached to the outside of the building. We descended seven or eight floors, as quickly as one can move in a tiny towel in ten-degree weather, with no light to guide us except the flames shooting from the top of the hotel. Once we got down the fire escape, all the other guests were on the front lawn hanging out until the fire could be contained. One man took off his socks and gave them to me. Another guy gave me his coat. I wrapped the towel (that was around my body) on my head to cover my wet hair. There I was in tube socks and an over-sized coat, with my hair swirled up in a damp towel.
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That was pretty fun. Hours later, once the fire was contained and some of the smoke blown out, we were allowed back into the hotel. Our luggage, or more accurately, my mother’s luggage, hadn’t made its way to our room yet. We called the concierge and he got right on it. After a few more hours, there was a knock at our door, and my mother’s charred suitcases were escorted into the room. I guess our luggage had been left in the lobby, where the fire had started. We went to bed at 4 a.m., exhausted and bewildered—not to mention traumatized, after giving everyone at the Ushuaia Hotel a little show that night. —Blair Woodruff
Tough Guy Challenge I recently returned from a recreation-based study abroad in the South Pacific, where I triumphantly completed the race of my life: the Tough Guy and Gal Challenge in New Zealand. The race was intense and was hands down one of the coolest things that I have ever done. The course was a little over 7 miles (12 kilometers) long, which ordinarily would have been a piece of cake for me. However, in addition to running, I had to drag myself through thick mud, climb up a spider web-like net and under barbed wire, and run up and down slippery hills and in swamp crossings. The pouring rain and wet terrain added to the excitement and challenge of the race. At one point the smell of the sulfuric mud was so bad that my stomach could hardly hold its contents. But it was all worth it. I slid through the finish line in 80th place, with a gift bag and a hot, steaming cup of soup waiting for me. I was so dirty that my own mother wouldn’t have recognized me. The race officials even had to rinse me off with a fire hose! Despite my bruised legs and sore muscles, I would still go back in a heartbeat and run the race again. —Garrett Stone
Illustration by Amanda Reschke; Ad Photo courtesy of TheKeithHall, Flickr
Me and My Towel in Argentina
Shoes say a lot about your sense of fun. At Stowaway magazine, we don’t just talk about what you saw. We want to know about the beaten path in Peru you randomly ran through simply because it looked “cool,” or the muddy field in New Zealand that was too dirty to resist. Shoes say a lot about where you’ve been and where you’re going. So . . . if your shoes could talk, what would they say about you?
Call for submissions Stowaway
www.stowawaymag.com
service
SUSTAINING
When Aubrey Wright walked into an orphanage in Haiti as a volunteer with Sustain Haiti, she was literally welcomed with open arms. “The children ran up to me with their arms outstretched, saying ‘Po tem! Po tem!’ which means ‘Hold me! Hold me!’” Aubrey says. In her volunteer work, Aubrey, a student at Brigham Young University, learned to love the orphans as she helped them e motionally recover from losing loved ones, homes, and possessions in the earthquakes that devastated Haiti last year. “I truly feel that this is how you can make a difference in the lives of children in Haiti—hold them. Not just physically, but emotionally. Hold them in your arms and in your heart.” Sustain Haiti was founded in response to the earthquakes that struck in January 2010, affecting more than three million people. The disaster was devastating for Haiti—more than two hundred thousand people died during the actual quake, and of the one million people left homeless, thousands more continued to perish due to a lack of food and fresh water. Disaster relief from other nations and international organizations came immediately, but these groups have since left. Haiti’s path to recovery from the earthquake is still incomplete and will require the efforts of hundreds of volunteers. That’s where Sustain Haiti comes in. Originally started as a university class project, Sustain Haiti is now an NGO (nongovernmental organization) that supports a continual effort to help the people of Haiti rebuild their lives and their communities. Helping with orphanages is Two boys in a local Leogane orphanage just one of many humanitarian
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projects. Sustain Haiti volunteers began with clean-up and building projects. Then as the group attracted more volunteers and funding, they expanded to caring for orphans, square gardening, and teaching business, English, and hygiene classes. The group has been successful in their efforts, but the work is not without its challenges. “Sometimes it was discouraging when appointments fell through, projects weren’t working, or resources were lacking,” says Aubrey. “However, I cannot say that I was ever disappointed in the relationships I built with my fellow volunteers and especially with the Haitian people. I feel that the best way for our organization to make a difference will be through the relationships that we develop and nurture with the Haitian people. I learned that many of the Haitian people are just as eager and willing to help better their country as we are, but it is important to create that trusting relationship first.” Sustain Haiti is making a difference particularly in the volunteers’ interactions with those they serve—especially the children. Although Haitian officials have done their best to provide for hundreds of displaced children, it is difficult for the government to give each child the love and attention that
Photography courtesy of Aubrey Wright
“
I feel that the best way for our organization to make a difference will be through the relationships that we develop and nurture with the Haitian people.
Haiti
The Summer 2010 Sustain Haiti group with orphans in Leogane
is so critical for their emotional development. Despite cultural and language barriers, Sustain Haiti volunteers are able to help these orphans by giving them the physical contact they crave. Alissa Wilkinson, another BYU student, recently returned from Haiti, where she became close to a little girl named Keslan. On Alissa’s last day in the country, Keslan couldn’t get enough hugs. “We played a game,” Alissa remembers. “I would hold her in my arms and hug her really tight while saying, ‘Squeeze her, squeeze her, squeeze her.’ She would laugh the most beautiful laugh and squeeze me back as tight as she could. Her whole body would tighten as she put all her energy into hugging me back. I can still feel her little arms around my neck.”
Sustain Haiti sends volunteers out for a minimum of two weeks, but volunteers often stay for several months. Aubrey Wright’s cousin, Jill Wright, a university student in Mesa, Arizona, heard about Aubrey’s experience in Haiti and knew she wanted to be involved in the relief effort. Jill contacted Sustain Haiti, and within five days, she was on a plane. “There was no convincing— I just knew it was the right decision to go,” Jill explains. “A person who is willing to go and serve these Haitian people can make all the difference in the world. You won’t be able to change the damage that has been done, but even a little help can go such a long way.” π www.sustainhaiti.blogspot.com
Caption This is the photo caption Aubrey with two orphaned girls at the New Voice House of Life Orphanage
—Katie Nelson w w w . s t o w a w ay m a g . c o m
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off the beaten path
Run
ning Rome
Photo courtesy of katie nelson
I
’m awake. It’s dark outside—almost dawn. My roommates are still sleeping in their beds. But I can’t let this opportunity pass me by. I quietly tie on my running shoes and tiptoe toward the door. Slowly I descend the stairs to the front entrance of my hotel. Palo, the doorman, sits sleeping at his post. I wonder for a moment if I should wake him and request that he unlock the door. But I choose not to for fear he will label me as one of those inconsiderate tourists he rants about during the continental breakfasts. Luckily, the door is unlocked. I quietly step outside. Immediately the scents of cigarette butts, exhaust, and burnt asphalt strike my senses. Taking a hesitant and deep breath, I look at the narrow, winding streets ahead of me and start to run. To my left I can see a small gelato shop with a large array of
flavors reflecting off the shop’s glass windows. To my right I see African immigrants preparing their markets for the morning rush. What treasures will they sell today, I wonder. Silk ties, a nice pair of shoes, a bracelet? Farther and farther I run, leaving a trail of mental bread crumbs that will lead me back to my hotel. A clock tower is to the east, a bakery shop is to the west, and just north is my destination. The sun is beginning to peak from behind the buildings. As I run down the narrow sidewalks, I notice hopeful shop owners opening their windows, sweeping their doorsteps, and setting tables. A man with a shaved head and a missing tooth waves at me. His white bakery apron is tainted with red sauce and flour. I am touched by his friendly gesture and continue moving forward. The sun continues to rise, and in the distance I can see where I’m headed. Looming arches begin to grow with each step I take. Ancient stone becomes more defined as my feet guide me forward. And suddenly
I arrive: the Roman Colosseum. It stands tall and supreme. As I cautiously jog my way around the circular base, I notice that a gate is open on the far side. I’ve already made it this far, I say to myself, so why not run a full lap? Around and around I go, one lap after another. Before I know it, I’ve run a whole mile around the exterior of the Colosseum. As I continue moving, I begin imagining ancient stories. That’s the column with the chipped foliage on top and cracked base . . . That must be the place where Romans forced the gladiators to enter, all armored and set for battle . . . The sun has officially risen, and the streets of Rome are slowly filling with businessmen and women and school children. It’s time for me to head back and start my day like all the other students: books in hand, backpack in place, and ready to focus on the day’s lectures. —Katie Nelson
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highway highlight
?
Are We There Yet Staying Sane on I-15
There is something exhilarating about being on the road. It’s empowering to hear that rumbling sound of rubber against asphalt, to feel your hands clutching the wheel—or at least that’s how every road trip begins. But near the middle of the journey, many travelers find themselves restless for the road trip to end. This feeling intensifies with every interruption—like stops for fuel and for bathroom breaks—which can dissolve the adventurous mood of the road trip completely. Solution? Turn your stops into adventures and experience a little more of the United States. To help out road-weary travelers, I made a trip from
Provo, Utah, to Los Angeles, California, to find the best stops down Highway I-15.
Scipio, Utah
If you take the first exit in Scipio (eighty miles south of Provo), a gas station appears almost like a mirage in the middle of central Utah’s mountains. At first I wasn’t expecting much, but off to the side of the gas station is the most bizarre thing—a petting zoo! Admission to the large pens of animals is only $2, and best of all, you get to feed the animals for free! In this petting zoo you will find all kinds of animals—from those commonly found on the farm to more exotic creatures like peacocks and emus.
Beaver, Utah
Beaver, UT: The cheese samples are so good, you can’t stop with one!
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As you continue further south on I-15, you will reach the town of Beaver. At first glance, Beaver may seem like any other small town, but three minutes off the freeway is one of the best cheese factories in Utah: Dairy Farmers of America’s Cache Valley Cheese. After arriving, I found my right hand wrapped around an ice cream cone and my left hand clutching some of the most delicious things in this world: cheese curds. Stacks of them are sold in big barrels around the store. So many
people come through each day that you’re lucky if the factory doesn’t run out. In addition to cheese curds, there are several varieties of cheese and other dairy products. The factory even has its own taste-testing area, so you can find the perfect dairy product for you.
Cove Fort, Utah
This outpost was built and settled by the Hinckley family in the late 1800s. They were instructed by the prophet of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints to build a halfway point between Fillmore and Beaver. Cove Fort was exactly that—thirty miles from Beaver and thirty miles from Utah’s old capital of Fillmore, a perfect rest area for horses and weary travelers. Cove Fort is a square stone building that sturdily sits amidst dry yellow prairie grass. During an hour tour around the fort, you’ll learn some of the fort’s building designs—like how the large entrance door is made of wooden slabs but the center is hollow and filled with sand. This arrangement helped protect the fort: if bullets or arrows penetrated the wood of the door, they would be slowed by the grains of sand. Cove Fort, an oasis of information in the center of the mountainous desert, offers fun facts for a refreshing break from a long car ride.
Yermo, California
Photography by kristen hutchings
In the middle of the desert of Yermo, the sign announcing the city limits appears out of nowhere: Calico Ghost Town. Despite its utter lack of poltergeists, Calico is still an interesting place to visit. Calico is the perfect name for this place because of the colorful mountain rocks and dirt that surround the town, making it look like a calico quilt. The town itself contains decayed remains of what used to be a bustling city; it is preserved to give a glimpse of its lively days in the late 1800s. The entrance fee is only $6, and the experience is well worth it. You are able to ride a train around the restored mining town and learn about what took place in the gaping caverns and mines that look as though they were ripped into the mountainside. Some other fun activities include exploring mines and trying your hand at panning for gold. The best place to cool down in Yermo is at Peggy Sue’s Diner, located ten minutes from Calico. You travel through time from Calico’s rustic town in the late 1800s to a bustling
1950s restaurant surrounded by “diner-saurs”—the owner’s little joke to describe his quirky fetish with the brass dinosaur statues that are placed around the property. Peggy Sue’s has a beautiful garden area, where the owners leave bags of dried Yermo, CA: This is the diner that sits on the west side, separate from the bread for custommain restaurant. Grab those cinnamon sticks here! ers to feed the ducks and other animals near the pond. But the Barstow, California food they serve their customThe last stop before reaching LA ers is the best feature of this is Barstow, California. Barstow is diner. The cinnamon sticks are a unique area to refuel and rest warm and unbelievably soft with those glazed-over eyes. Right whipped buttercream frosting off the freeway exit, there is a on the side for dipping; make McDonald’s and a souvenir mall sure you get your own order! built into a mock train station.
Baker, California
Baker boasts ownership of the tallest thermometer in the world. Across the street from this attraction is one of the best of the Mad Greek chains in the West, according to many Californians. The place is built like a massive temple, with Greek statues and olive trees. I ordered a strawberry shake and a delicious gyro heaped with lamb, and I felt like I was eating with the gods. Though the food is less godlike next door at the Alien Jerky store, you’ll still want to stop by to check out their 25 different flavors of jerky that you can sample before you buy. But beware the Colon Cleansing jerky: one hour and two water bottles later, I finally extinguished the fire that had erupted in my mouth.
The seating area for McDonald’s and the other restaurants are all placed in train cars at the side of the station. The surroundings
“I felt like I was eating with the gods.” make it feel like you’re on a train as you chomp on your fries and burger. I journeyed inside the souvenir part of the station and found myself in a mini Seattle Pike’s Place Market. There are shops that contain all sorts of collectibles and knickknacks amidst the fun, high-energy atmosphere. After this break I was back on the freeway and only two hours away from LA. After experiencing the excitement of all these stops enroute to LA, I found myself wanting to do one thing: hit the road again. —Kristen Hutchings
Baker, CA: The world’s tallest thermometer
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The Temperate House, the largest Victorian glasshouse in the world, at Kew Gardens in Richmond, England 78 >> Spr i ng 2011
Parting Shot
Photo by Martha Ostergar
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“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover.” —Mark Twain