Stowaway Summer 2011 by Brigham Young University Editing Students

SUMMER 2011

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

Havasupai

Explore this beautiful desert oasis in Arizona

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE Visit Cape Verde 6 Must-See Stops on I-95 An Appalachian Thru-Hiker

Use every day for— Abrasions Blisters Bruises Bug bites & stings Burns Chafing Chapped hands Cuticles Cuts Dry lips Dry skin Gashes Irritations Peeling skin Rashes Scrapes Scratches Scuffs Shaving bumps Sore feet Sores Sunburn Windburn And much more

Helps Your Skin Help Itself—Naturally www.miracell.com In the background is the mighty Tungurahua Volcano, which almost obliterated the small town of Baños, Ecuador, several years ago. You can see more of my pictures at www.lightworldphotography.com. —Taylor

I’ve traveled all over the world for the last 6 years.

From Wales to Fiji, from Argentina to Iceland. I’ve climbed on Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America; biked over 600 miles in Iceland; run 100 miles on foot in 32 hours in Idaho; guided adventure travel trips in over 6 different states; dived with sharks at night; road tripped down the Baja Peninsula and more … I know what it means to be prepared. On all my adventures I always take MiraCell. I use it for myself, my friends, and my clients because it works. You never know what life is going to throw at you, but if you’re prepared, it will work out all right and you’ll have some sweet stories to tell when you get back.

— Taylor Allred

Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

MiraCell uses natural plant extracts that support the miraculous healing power of your skin.

Helps Your Skin Help Itself—Naturally www.miracell.com

SUMMER 2011

Departments

Field Notes

7 Letter from the Editor 8 African Summer Festivals

Culture 12 16 18 20

Chalk Art and Alfombras Mongolian Art Foreign Restaurants Four Frozen-Treat Recipes

Getaway 24 25 26 28 30

Shakespeare in Your Backyard Discover MontrĂŠal Summer Cruising Deep-Sea Fishing in Alaska Island Hopping: Cape Verde

58 62 64 66

Photo Contest Winners Tales from the Trip Traveling Down I-95 Profile: Appalachian Thru-Hiker

Insider 70 Antiquing in the UK 72 A Haggling How-To 73 Free Government Services 74 Travel Cameras 75 Dance Tourism 76 Couch Surfing 78 Dive America 80 Staff Essay: We Made It! 82 Parting Shot

24 ON THE COVER Explorers cool off from the desert heat in Arizonaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Havasu Falls. photo by Jon Roig/flickr

48 facing page, left to right: photos by ivan prole/flickr, Karl hugh, Brad Jurgensmeier, Paul Smith/flickr, and Mariola Streim/flickr; above: Photo by wonderlane/flickr

Features 36

Abolishing Leprosy in India

Experience India in a new way by volunteering with Rising Star Outreach and helping to better the lives of leprosy patients in southern India.

Havasupai: A Desert Oasis Explore Havasupai, a hidden gem of the Grand Canyon. Dive off cliffs, traverse through cascading waterfalls, and enliven your sense of adventure.

Nepal’s Boudhanath Stupa Discover the culture, language, and landscape of Nepal, the Himalayan Kingdom, through the story of a son and his mother as they visit the Boudhanath Stupa.

Living Life “Legendary” Learn how Matthew Case and Eric Brewer lived their lives “legendary.” Follow their trip as they cycled 3,000 miles across the United States.

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

MANAGING EDITOR Elyse Harris

If you want to explore a jungle, go to South America …

ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITORS Heather Jenson Shertok Samyak SENIOR EDITORS Callie Manion Sarah Owen ASSOCIATE EDITORS Millicent Lawrence Lydia Ross Addie White COPYEDITORS Marianne Jurgensmeier Kara Kemp Mark Weinfurter ART DIRECTOR Melissa Kotter ASSISTANT ART DIRECTORS Lauren Mortenson Shanna Warr SENIOR DESIGNERS Tyler Beckstrom Maddie Nordgren BUSINESS MANAGER Pieter Mueller ASSISTANT BUSINESS MANAGER Christopher Taney WEB DIRECTOR Patrick Hernandez LEAD PROGRAMMER Hailee Norton ADVISOR Chelsee Ostler

Our services include— • Weekly lawn care $35 • Aeration $35 • Fertilization $35 • Dethatching $70 • Spring/Fall clean-up (depends on job)

Contact Josh Green at

801.669.3999

Top to bottom, left to right: Elyse, Heather, Shertok, Callie, Sarah, Millicent, Lydia, Addie, Marianne, Kara, Mark, Melissa, Lauren, Shanna, Tyler, Maddie, Pieter, Chris, Patrick, Hailee, Chelsee, Marv

© 2011 Marvin K. Gardner 4045 JFSB, Brigham Young University Provo, Utah 84602 Printed by MagCloud Stowaway is produced as a group project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, and designing. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and do not represent the views or opinions of BYU. Stowaway takes inspiration from the words of Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

staff Photos by Chelsea fitch

… not to your backyard.

EDITOR IN CHIEF Marvin K. Gardner

editor’s note

A Walk in My Own Shoes

Top: Photo courtesy of Elyse Harris; bottom: photo by Chelsee Ostler

wo years ago, I walked across Europe in a brand-new pair of Converse sneakers. Though they provided me with (what seemed like) innumerable blisters, they also gave me a myriad of memories. As I traveled through each country, I asked at least one person to sign my shoes—someone who stood out to me as unforgettable. In many of the countries I visited, it was impossible to choose just one person to sign them. And by the end of my trip, not only did I have over 50 signatures on my “new” shoes, I had even more memories to go with each one. Each person who signed my shoes influenced my life in some way. From that journey, I learned that one person can stick out in your mind forever because of your experience with him or her—like Beat in Switzerland, who showed me how to fly and see the world, if only through paragliding; or a kind street vendor in Prague, who knew seven languages and was surprised to learn that I knew only one. Even the people I traveled with became close friends and taught me life lessons—like Phil, who was not afraid to serenade us in Italian on the gondola ride, even though he couldn’t speak a lick of Italian. When all is said and done, all you have left are your memories—and whatever you did to help preserve them. The capacity to remember is one of the greatest gifts we have as humans. Memories give each of us the ability to unlock emotions and find new ways of learning. For me, those signatures on my shoes are a reminder to break out of my comfort zone, try new things, and meet new people. They remind me of the importance of face-to-face interactions and of the impact a single person can have. As you peruse this issue of Stowaway, you will read about a mother who advocated change and equality for many people, even while coping with the death of her daughter. You will travel across the United States with two cyclists who not only accomplished their extreme cycling dream, but also had an unforgettable experience and met extraordinary people along the way. You will journey into the mind of a Nepalese boy as he recounts his experience with his mother at the Boudhanath Stupa. As you read the experiences and memories of others, I encourage you to explore new cultures and countries, new cities and states. Visit the lovely city of Montréal. Learn what it means to CouchSurf. Create a life worth living and a memory worth reliving. Remember that no matter where you go, what you learn, or who you meet, your travel experiences will benefit you nothing if you forget what you’ve done and learned. Use Stowaway as a springboard to explore, dream, and discover—then go and create memorable adventures of your own.

Good luck!

Elyse Harris Managing Editor

Beat (left) and I (in white jacket) celeb rate with fellow traveler s after paragliding over beautiful slopes in Switzerland.

African

Independence Days Mozambique June 25 Citizens of Mozambique celebrate their Independence Day with parades and processions that fill the streets of Maputo, the capital city. People also gather to hear the reforms the government plans to make to improve their country.

Jambo! If you’re headed to Africa this summer, ditch the safari and stop by some of these festivals. You’ll get a firsthand glimpse of African culture and traditions—and you can even participate in some of the events! Written by Melissa Kotter

Somalia June 26 People of Somalia celebrate their Independence Day wherever they happen to live— whether in their native country or elsewhere in the world. Some of the celebrations outside their native land include historical presentations and cooking demonstrations to educate others about Somalia.

Seychelles June 29 Seychelles (pronounced “say shells”) celebrates “Liberation Day”—the day citizens resolved to become independent from Britain. Families celebrate with picnics in the parks and enjoy spectacular firework displays in the evening.

Ivory Coast August 7 Residents of the Ivory Coast celebrate their independence in the capital city, Yamoussoukro, by watching military parades while enjoying aloko, ripe bananas fried in palm oil and often spiced up with chili pepper and onions.

Congo August 15 Known as “Fête Nationale,” Congo’s Independence Day is a day for reflection. Citizens evaluate themselves, recognize potential areas of improvement, and set goals to improve during the next year.

—Christopher Taney

Panafest

July 21–August 4 Accra, Ghana This festival occurs every two years and focuses on African dance, music, and other performing arts. The overall purpose of the festival is to enhance the ideals of Pan-Africanism and the development of Africa as a continent. During the festival, various conferences on African arts and history take place. The goal of these conferences is to educate others about Africa and its promising future.

π www.hellotravel.com/events/panafest Mwaka Kogwa Festival July 20–23 Zanzibar, Tanzania This festival celebrates the New Year, and lasts about four days. It begins with a physical fight between two brothers from the south and two from the north. Supporters of either side may join in the fight. It is believed that since everyone has had a chance to fight, there will be no conflicts in the coming year. After the fight, a local magician sets fire to a small hut. When flames emerge, the magician runs out of the hut and throws himself into a nearby bush. Everyone throws dirt at the fire to extinguish it. It is believed that if someone’s house should catch fire in the new year, this ritual will prevent deaths. In the evening, villagers gather for a banquet and dance to traditional music.

π www.mzuri-kaja.or.tz/mwaka.html

8 >> summer 2011

Knysna Oyster Festival July 1–10 Knysna, South Africa The Oyster Festival was established in 1984 to attract people to visit Knysna. During the 10-day festival, 200,000 oysters are consumed— most during the oyster-eating competition. However, the festival does not focus just on eating oysters. Sporting events are also a main component. These events include a marathon, a half marathon, and a two-day cycling event.

π www.oysterfestival.co.za/index.php

happenings

African Festivals Festival of Awessu August Zuwarah, Libya In ancient times, the natives of Zuwarah would bathe in the sea before sunrise to cleanse themselves of their sins and capitalize on the healing properties of the salt water. Once the sun began to rise, they would hold some sea water in their cupped hands and throw it toward the sky, rejoicing. They would then dive seven times into the sea, believing that this action thwarted the traditional belief that “the sea needs seven lives a year.” Today natives do the rituals for fun, and the festival now has added events such as swimming competitions, sailing races, folk dances, and traditional food feasts.

π www.temehu.com/Cities_sites/Zwara.html

International Camel Derby Festival

Illustrations by Younhee Burningham

August Maralel, Kenya This competition, which has been an African tradition since 1990, tests the speed and strength of camels and the handling abilities of their jockeys. The jockeys come from countries all over the world including Japan, Australia, the United States, New Zealand, England, France, Spain, and Canada. The camel races feature both amateur races (10 km) and elite races (42 km).

π www.kenyasafari-direct.com/activity/the-maralal-international-camel-derby

www.stowawaymag.com << 9

Summer School Take the classroom to the beach. Enroll in courses online and study on your own schedule. Get the BYU credits you need without sacrificing your summer vacation.

Online courses elearn.byu.edu

Culture Arts >> Weave through colorful street displays of Guatemala and Italy or explore the symbols of Mongolian national dress. pages 12â&#x20AC;&#x201C;17

PHoto by Laci Hosking

Eats >> Experience exotic cuisine in your hometown or kick off the summer with some do-it-yourself frozen treats. pages 18â&#x20AC;&#x201C;21

The traditions of the Mongolian people are deeply rooted in their relationship to the land.

page 16

arts

Guatemala Historical Background

Imagine walking home one day and finding a beautiful rug placed unceremoniously in the middle of the street. Its colors are exquisite; its design is unique and intricate. From a distance it looks like an ordinary rug; but as you get closer, you are surprised to discover that it is actually ingeniously created using nothing but colored sawdust, fruits, clovers, flowers, and pines. You might be tempted to question, “What is this strange thing, who put it here, and why the heck is it in the middle of the street?” Well, as strange as it may seem to us in the United States, this is a common sight during a special celebration in a beautiful corner of the world that you might not expect. That place is Guatemala, and the rug is called an alfombra (al-foam-bruh), which means “carpet” in Spanish. You can find alfombras—like the one depicted at left—covering the streets of Antigua, an ancient city, during the week of Semana Santa (Holy Week). Continued on next page

The Street Is Our Canvas Italy

Historical Background During the Renaissance, hundreds of Italian artists immortalized the Madonna through drawings, paintings, and sculptures. But the artists who won the title of madonnari had an unusual domain—the streets. They were chalk painters, wandering artists who venerated the beloved Virgin by stretching her face across the surface of churchyards and town squares. Although traditional madonnari allegedly disappeared during World War II, street painting has come back full force since then. Madonnari like Melanie Stimmell (pictured at left) have come to be respected as creators of high art instead of simple folk artists, and the genre is now celebrated primarily through local and international festivals rather than through solo exhibitions. The first of these festivals was held in Grazie di Curtatone, Italy, in 1972 and became the mother of hundreds of such festivals across Europe and the United States. Continued on next page

12 >> summer 2011

Left: Photo courtesty of melaniestimmell.com; Right: Photo by Rok Lipnik/fliCkr

Left: Photo courtesy of travellingbazaar/dreamstime; Right: Photo by Shannon O’donnell

Construction

Although alfombras are made out of natural elements such as fruits, pines, and flowers, sawdust is the primary element. Sawdust is painted vibrant colors and poured into temporary stencil molds to create elaborate symbols and designs. These designs can range anywhere from a flamingo, to an abstract shape, to a depiction of Christ carrying a cross. Many of them contain religious symbolism.

Colored sawdust is used to make alfombras.

Cultural and Religious Significance

A common religious symbol used is the butterfly. A caterpillar’s evolution to a butterfly represents the life of Christ. A butterfly begins life as a plain caterpillar. It dies to the world by entering a cocoon for a time and is reborn as a beautiful butterfly—symbolizing the life, death, and resurrection of Jesus Christ three days later. It is not just the design of the alfombras that have symbolic meaning; the materials used to create them, such as pine boughs, feathers, and incense, are the same sacrificial materials that were used in Christian theology’s history. The Spanish first introduced Christianity and the Semana Santa celebration when they colonized Guatemala. Alfombras are traditionally created to honor Christ and to show their devotion to Him. Catholicism stuck long after the Spanish left, and active members are still found creating Continued on next page

Construction

Cultural and Religious Significance

Early madonnari used whatever materials were available to them, such as charcoal, white chalk, or even scrap materials from buildings. Contemporary artists now use multi-colored chalk with a creamy consistency that blends well, like oil pastels. Some madonnari even use tempera, a water-based paint, as a base so that the chalk holds even when the wind blows.

Early street painters likely painted the Virgin Mary out of their own religious fervor—and the fervor of those who would be tossing them coins. Today, some chalk artists have begun to paint secular subjects, but many continue to depict classical subjects to pay homage to the talent of the great Renaissance artists. This combination of classical and contemporary culture is a rich artistic juxtaposition. Nevertheless, street painting’s greatest contribution to contemporary and past culture lies in its creative process, not its subject matter. When you walk through a museum, you survey collection after collection of finished products; you can only guess what these paintings might have looked like in their first stages. With chalk art, the finished product is inevitably destroyedby weather or crowds, but you can see every step of the creation process if you stand there long enough. Although individual chalk paintings survive only in photography, street painting’s four-century heritage is a

Street painting chalk usually has the consistency of oil pastels.

Continued on next page

www.stowawaymag.com << 13

Continued from previous page

alfombras during Holy Week throughout Guatemala today. Catholics celebrate Semana Santa in remembrance of the Atonement of Jesus Christ in the last week of His life. Alfombras are finished in time for Good Friday, the day Christ was crucified.

Continued from previous page

testament to the value of witnessing the artistic process. Street painting festivals have amplified the art form’s status as a performance art. Renaissance street painters had to travel from town to town to find appreciative crowds, but modern crowds now come in hordes seeking the street painters. These festivals expose thousands of spectators in one day to the artistic process.

14 >> summer 2011

They are created along the path of a parade of los hermandades (the brotherhoods), who carry floats depicting Christ burdened with His cross. The hermandades trample the alfombras along their route, often destroying them mere minutes after they have been completed. To the people of Antigua, it is okay for their

masterpieces to be destroyed. The physical alfombra is not the important thing to them; it’s the act of showing their devotion to their Savior that matters most. They want only the best carpets for the hermandades to carry their sacred statues over.

The festival has also introduced a more formal edge of competition to the art. In chalk art’s original days, the artists were solitary and essentially nomadic. If they competed, it was probably two at a time on opposite street corners, not fifty at a time in front of a county courthouse. Today, street painters gather from around the world to compete, and they have something to gain besides bread money—prestige. Most festivals offer prizes and awards, but the annual

festival in Grazie di Curtatone offers the most prestigious of all: the title of maestro madonnaro/madonnara. Street painting festivals are fantastic places to witness the creation of art and to explore why it is created. Although simply looking at photographs of these pieces can be inspiring, the full beauty of the art forms are best understood when you can see them for yourself.

—Christopher Taney

—Maddie Nordgren

PhotoGraphy by Shannon O’donnell

Above: A combination of vivid colors and intricate stencils form this beautiful alfombra. Previous page from left: Multiple layers of sawdust form the symbols found in alfombras. Pre-cut stencils are used to create symbols and designs.

Upcoming Events Alfombras Semana Santa/Holy Week

opposite page: Photography courtesy of carlsbad art splash; this page: photo by Luca VOlpi/flickr; sidebar photo by elyse harris

Antigua, Guatemala April 5–6, 2012 π www.transitionsabroad.com (search Semana Santa)

Chalk Art Denver Chalk Art Festival on Larimer Square

Denver, Colorado June 4–5, 2011 Featuring maestra madonnara Melanie Stimmell π www.larimerarts.org

Incontro Nazionale Madonnari

Grazie di Curtatone, Italy August 14–15, 2011

Carlsbad Art Splash

Above: Spectators and artists gather for the annual festival in Grazie di Curtatone, Italy. Previous page from left: This rendition of Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss showcases one chalk artist’s technical talent. A mysterious woman evokes the elegance of the Orient. One painting pays homage to the Beatles.

Carlsbad, California September 24–25, 2011 π www.carlsbadartsplash.org

www.stowawaymag.com << 15

Mongolia A Story from Hats to Boots Queen Amidala’s wardrobe in the Star Wars movies did not come from a galaxy far, far away. It came from the simple Mongolian countryside. When concept artist Iain McCaig and costume designer Trisha Biggar worked to create an exotic, regal look for their leading lady, Mongolian fashion offered the richness they were looking for. But traditional Mongolian clothing is much more than a great source for costume ideas; each article of clothing carries rich meaning for the Mongolian people. Mongolians’ unique way of life is the root of their clothing fashion. Most Mongolians are nomadic herders who live off the land. Their homes, called gers, are similar to tents in that they can be taken down, moved, and set back up in another location. With these portable homes, Mongolians are free to move anywhere in the countryside. Nomadic herders rely on this mobility not only

16 >> summer 2011

to give their livestock enough space for grazing, but also to keep themselves connected with the natural landscape of their nation—royal mountains, wide spaces, rolling hills, and endless skies. From their heads to their toes, Mongolians wear symbols that remind them of these things that matter most. Ariunbolar Dorjsembe, a native Mongolian who works with Boojum

Expeditions promoting Mongolian travel, offers insights into the symbolic nature of Mongolian clothing. To Mongolians, traditional clothing goes far beyond fashion. Through the symbolism of their clothing, Mongolians feel a strong national identity as well as union between their present nation and their past.

Malgai (Hat)

The shape of this summer hat is symbolic of Mongolian culture. According to Ariunbolor, the pointed top symbolizes “uprising, prosperity, and unity of the nation.” Coming down from the point, the body of the hat domes out into a bowl shape; this “dome shape represents the ger, the traditional Mongolian dwelling,” and emphasizes the importance of family. Ariunbolor explains that around the edges of the hat there are scalloped flaps that look like mountains or hills; this element of the hat reminds Mongolians to live peacefully in nature.

Deel (Robe)

The deel is the ultimate in function and fashion. Similar to a bathrobe, the deel has long sleeves and front material that wraps across the front, left over right, fastened by loop-andknot style buttons. To create a snug fit, a cord, sash, or belt is tied around the waist. With two pieces crossing over the top of one another, the material forms a front pocket. Ariunbolor explains that this pocket is often used to hold a baby. When unfolded, the deel can also be used as a blanket.

Bus (Belt)

Mongolians wear brightly colored and beautifully patterned deels for day-to-day activities, but for special celebrations, they will often trade out their cord, sash, or belt for a fancier one. It’s common for Mongolians to ornament the belt buckle with soyombo, the national symbol found on the country’s flag (see opposite page). Ariunbolor explains that each part of the symbol stands for something. The two vertical poles that frame the symbol stand for the “stability of the country.” Between the two poles is the yin and yang, which emphasize “being alert all the time for the good of the country.” Stacking above the yin and yang at the top of the soyombo symbol are moon, sun, and fire icons. These three icons together represent the “continuous prosperity of the country.” The fire icon alone also represents “past, present, and future” by the three tongues of the flame.

Photography by Lauren Mortenson

Gutal (Boots)

Like everything else they wear, even the way Mongolians clothe their toes tells a part of the story of their way of life. Mongolian boots are made of cowhide leather with a felt lining “sock.” The sock can be removed in order to make the boot cooler in the summer. The boots are designed to symbolize gentleness and harmony with the earth. At the tip of each boot, the toe is turned up to avoid digging into the earth with each step. —Lauren Mortenson www.stowawaymag.com << 17

eats

Foreign Restaurants The Local Getaway

How are IHOP, Denny’s, Outback Steakhouse, Olive Garden, Red Lobster, and other widely franchised restaurants similar? They’re incredibly common and can become dreadfully dull if you eat out at any of them regularly. To expand your culinary tastes, look for the small, locally owned ethnic restaurants in and around your neighborhood. The following list is not comprehensive in any respect—there are undoubtedly dozens of options to explore in the cities closest to you. If you’re willing to search, your efforts to try some new tastes from around the world will be rewarded. If I were a conquistador, I would’ve come seeking gold and stayed for the food! These are some of my favorites.

Ceviche (pictured left)

Peruvian

Raw fish marinated in lemon juice, whose acidity removes said rawness. It tastes so much better than it sounds. If you want to try the best of Peruvian cuisine, this is it.

Pollo a la Brasa Rotisserie chicken served with French fries. It’s a staple fast food for Peruvians and a dish most are sure to find delicious.

Aji de Gallina Chicken and potatoes smothered in a thick, creamy sauce usually made from cheese and pureed bread crumbs and nuts; it can be spicy depending on the restaurant. The Greeks gave us the idea of democracy, columns, tons of words, and really good food. Here are some dishes worth trying.

Gyros (pictured left) Deliciously seasoned beef (other meats may be available as well), vegetables, and tziziki sauce, all wrapped in a pita.

Giouvesti

Greek

A baked meat dish made with chicken, beef, or lamb. If you’re really going to try Greek food, order the lamb.

Baklavas A dessert dish made from thin sheets of unleavened sweet dough stacked one on top of another, filled with chopped nuts, and served with syrup or honey.

Thinking about helping Rising Star Outreach (see page 36) this summer? Then get your taste buds accustomed to dishes like these.

Chicken Tikka Masala (pictured left, with rice and garlic naan)

Samosas Fried pastries stuffed with meat or potatoes.

Navratan Korma A vegetable dish with paneer (cottage cheese) or nuts in a curry sauce. —Mark Weinfurter Check out Stowaway’s website for an online exclusive, “Finding Foreign Restaurants Near You.” 18 >> summer 2011

PHotograhy by Mark Weinfurter

Indian

A curry dish with roasted chicken smothered in a creamy and slightly spiced sauce.

See yourself in someone else.

Live, learn, and work with a community overseas. Be a Volunteer.

peacecorps.gov

The 4 Corners of the Kitchen

Mexico

United States

When the air is hot and your mouth is watering, your first instinct is to reach for a cold, delicious treat that will relieve you from the summer heat. Frozen treats are a summer staple no matter what country you are in. But when you can’t break the bank to travel the world, use your grocery money to bring the world to you. Here are some fantastic recipes that will help you cool off.

Confetti Ice Cream Pops

Mexican Paletas- Piña Colada

Ingredients

These American ice cream pops are a fun spin-off of a simple ice cream cone. To amp up your ice cream style, add candy bars and decorate with sprinkles to match any party or occasion. These ice cream pops are a fun treat for any party— and can be fun to decorate and create different designs with your friends.

8 pieces (11/2-inch) soft-centered candy bars (like Milky Way or Snickers) 1 pint vanilla custard-style ice cream, slightly softened 3/4 cup assorted-color candy confetti or sprinkles

Directions Insert a wooden Popsicle stick into one end of each candy bar and set aside. Place one tablespoon of ice cream in the bottom of a 3-ounce paper cup. Place candy bar in center of the cup, surround with 3 tablespoons ice cream, and smooth over the top. Transfer cup to a baking sheet. Repeat with remaining cups, and freeze until solid (about three hours). Pour confetti or sprinkles into a shallow bowl and set aside. Peel the cup from each ice cream pop and roll in the decorations to cover completely. Store in freezer for up to three days.

20 >> summer 2011

These Mexican Paletas (or little shovels) are a traditional and simple treat to make at home. These treats pack a little more interest—and sometimes a little more heat—than your average Popsicle. Made creamy with sweet fruits and berries, or icy with tart fruits and chilies, these little treats are sure to please.

1 cup milk 1/2 cup fresh or canned pineapple 1/3 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 teaspoon coconut extract

Directions In a blender, combine ingredients; whirl until smooth. Pour paletas mixture (choices follow) equally into six juice bar molds.* Attach covers. Insert sticks, leaving 1 ½ to 2 inches of each exposed. Freeze paletas upright until firm for at least three hours. Hold each mold up to the rim under warm running water just until paletas are released from sides of molds, five to fifteen seconds. Remove covers and pull out paletas. *Use any shape of juice bar molds with a ¼- to ¹/ 3-cup capacity.

Chocolate-Hazelnut Gelato

Ingredients

If you really want to end a meal with a bang, surprise your friends with an Indian kulfi. Kulfi is an Indian frozen dessert that isn’t churned like a traditional ice cream but is poured into molds and then frozen. Although it is a simple treat, kulfi is flavored with spices and nuts and brings an extra kick to any meal.

6 cups whole milk 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1/3 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds, ground

Directions

Photography by Marianne Jurgensmeier

Italy

India Almond-flavored Kulfi

Prepare molds. Use either Popsicle molds or paper cups. If you are using molds with no tops to them, insert wooden Popsicle sticks in the center after the ingredients have frozen for at least three hours. Pour the milk into a large saucepan. A larger pan with greater surface area will help the milk cook faster. Add in the ground cardamom. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to medium or mediumhigh and keep at a low boil without letting it boil over. Stirring constantly, continue cooking the milk until it is reduced to about a third of the original volume of the milk. Remove from heat and add in the sugar, using more or less to taste. Stir in the ground blanched almonds. Pour the mixture into a smaller bowl. To chill the mixture faster, place the smaller bowl in an ice-water bath. Stir occasionally as it cools. Pour the kulfi mixture into desired molds and freeze for several hours until firm. When pouring into the molds, remember that the mixture expands slightly as it freezes, so allow room for freezer expansion. To serve, dip the non-paper molds in hot water for a few seconds to remove from molds. If paper molds are used, tear off molds before serving.

Gelato is Italy’s delicious version of ice cream. Although it is very similar, gelato contains less butterfat and less sugar than traditional ice cream. This treat is one that is low in calories but high in taste. Make this dessert as a treat for your friends and family as you picture yourselves walking around the Roman Coliseum.

2 cups whole milk 1 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup sugar, plus 1/4 cup 4 egg yolks 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 cup chocolate-hazelnut spread 1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts, crushed, for garnish

Directions Combine the milk, cream, and ½ cup sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Cook until the sugar dissolves; stir about five minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whip the egg yolks with the remaining sugar using an electric mixer until the mixture has become thick and pale yellow: about four minutes. Pour ½ cup of the warm milk and cream mixture into the egg mixture and stir. Add this mixture back into the saucepan. Cook over very low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture becomes thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon: about 7 to 10 minutes. Place a strainer over a medium bowl and pour the warm custard mixture through the strainer. Stir in the vanilla and hazelnut spread until it dissolves. Chill mixture completely before pouring into an ice cream maker, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to churn. To serve, scoop gelato into serving bowls and top with hazelnuts.

—Marianne Jurgensmeier

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June 23 — October 22

A Midsummer Night’s Dream Richard III Romeo and Juliet The Music Man The Glass Menagerie Noises Off! The Winter’s Tale Dial M for Murder

800-PLAYTIX 800-PLAYTIX bard.org bard.org

Getaway Away for a weekend >> All the world’s a stage: visit the Shakespeare

Festival in southern Utah or enjoy le monde du spectacle in Montréal. pages 24–25

Away for a week >> Cruise the Caribbean or fill your freezer with the finest fish in Alaska. pages 26–29

Photo by MElissa Weber

away for a while >> Discover the clear blue waters of Cape Verde, Africa, as you island hop through paradise. page 30

Nature grows right up to the doorstep of this pagoda in the Chinese garden of Montréal’s Les Jardins Botaniques. page 25

away for a weekend

Where There’s a Will, There’s a Play Utah Shakespeare Festival

Left: The Adams Shakespearean Theatre is one of the most authentic Tudor theatres in the world. Center: Tiffany Scott as Juliet and Paul Hurley as Romeo in the Utah Shakespeare Festival’s 2005 production of Romeo and Juliet. Right: Featured performers such as Emilie Susan Anderson please crowds in The Greenshow, 2010.

The Utah Shakespeare Festival recruits actors from all over the world.

24 >> summer 2011

sell their wares from lollipops to T-shirts. In the early evening, crowds begin to gather on the lawn and clap along as performers dance, sing, and act out comedic sketches on stage for The Greenshow that is put on every Monday to Saturday at 7:00 pm for free. For this 50th year anniversary celebration, the festival is performing Romeo and Juliet, along with Richard III, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and A Winter’s Tale. Since its founding, the festival has also broadened its theatrical scope, and audiences this year can enjoy classic theatre performances of Music Man, The Glass Menagerie, Noises Off! and Dial M for Murder at the festival’s indoor Randall L. Jones Theatre. Each theatre seats approximately 800 guests for each showing, and tickets cost anywhere from $22 for balcony seating to $67 for front-row center seating. Tickets are $4 more for shows from Thursday through Saturday. Group discounts are available. And what else can you do all day if you’re waiting for your play to start that evening? If you’re looking for more Shakespeare to pack into your day, try attending the literary or production seminars given for free. If you ever wanted to get onstage, now’s your chance! Try a backstage tour with an inexpensive $8 pass and get a behindthe-scenes look into what goes into putting a performance together. Whether you go only once or every year, the Utah Shakespeare Festival will make an impact on you and give you

a glimpse into why Shakespeare is still popular 400 years after his plays were first performed. So take the drive to southern Utah and enjoy the 50th anniversary celebration of Cedar City’s Shakespeare Festival this summer and fall. For more information, visit—

π www.bard.org —Tyler Beckstrom

Other Shakespearean Festivals Several recommended festivals across the US:

•

The Illinois Shakespeare Festival has been in operation since 1978 in Normal, Illinois, and employs a more contemporary style.

•

The Oregon Shakespeare Festival is one of the oldest festivals and has been in operation since 1935 in Ashland.

•

The Alabama Shakespeare Festival in Montgomery is the sixth largest in the world and attracts over 300,000 guests a year!

Shakespeare Fellowship is an online website that lists a variety of Shakespeare festivals available throughout the rest of the world: π www.shakespearefellowship.org

Photos by Karl Hugh, Copyright Utah Shakespeare Festival

t’s been 50 years since a small town in southern Utah was changed by a New York thespian with a vision. That vision was an award-winning Shakespearean Festival, a dream that was realized in the year 2000 when the Utah Shakespeare Festival won the prestigious Tony Award, the equivalent to the Academy Award for film. The founder, Fred C. Adams, did a lot of work to make his festival great, including a research trip to visit one of America’s oldest Shakespearean festivals held in Ashland, Oregon, annually since 1935. The Utah Shakespeare Festival is held in Cedar City, Utah, a drive of only three and a half hours from Salt Lake City. It started small but had great initial success as volunteers put the performances together and entertained 3,000 guests their first year on a small outdoor stage. Today, the festival recruits actors from all over the world who perform for as many as 150,000 guests a season in an outdoor replica of the Globe Theatre. With actors using Shakespeare’s original texts, the stage comes alive every Monday through Saturday at 8:00 pm in Cedar City from June to October (matinees start at 2:oo pm). The grounds surrounding the Tudor-style Globe Theatre replica (named Adams Shakespearean Theatre after the festival’s founder) are abuzz with activity as workers and volunteers

Foreign Place, Local Price

Montréal

hen the weekend is short but the dreams are tall, head to Montréal, which promises adventure, culture, and, of course, l’amour. A weekend is all you need to fall in love with this city. A city in a river. That’s what caught the attention of Brittany Call, Melissa Weber, and other college-age travel enthusiasts. In the summer of 2010, a group of friends needed to get away. Brittany, a French student-teacher, was curious about what the French island had to offer. In the middle of the Saint Laurence Seaway, the island of Montréal has the pizzazz your weekend is looking for. The cosmopolitan character of this city offers you a little of everything. The myriad of cultures represented provide for a made-to-order getaway. You can tour the world by walking through neighborhoods such as Chinatown, Little Italy, Spanish and Portuguese communities down SaintLaurent Street, and the Vietnamese area along Saint-Denis Street. When it comes to large French-speaking cities, Montréal is second only to Paris. Fly, drive, or bike in; whatever you choose, once you’re there you’re going to want to do it all. The place to start is the underground metro system. In the open entrance areas of the stations, there are stands with brochures and advertisements containing information about main city events for each month

of the year. “That was where we found most of our information about what was going on,” Brittany says. “It seemed like they had something going on every day—like a car show or the international film festival.” Here are some free attractions that you won’t want to miss.

Mount Royal You know you’re in a great city when you can visit great public parks. Frederick Law Olmsted, who helped design New York’s Central Park, also designed Montréal’s Mount Royal Park. The park was organized on top of the main geographical feature of the island: the small mountain named Mount Royal. A short hike up, and you can look out across all of downtown (see photo above). Going at night is recommended by locals and visitors alike.

Photo by Melissa Weber

“We went at night. The city is lit up and you can see everywhere.”

Le Festival de Jazz Montréal is the home to the International Jazz Festival. It’s a 10-day celebration with several free outdoor events. Jazz bands from around the world play through the night. “The atmosphere was fun and people from all over the world were there. The whole city just kinda came together for it,”

reports Brittany. Be sure to plan your trip this year between June 25 and July 4 to catch the celebration.

Juste pour Rire The summer is a great time to laugh—at least Montréal thinks so. Since 1983, the comedy festival Just for Laughs has been a summer highlight for many people. Originally a French-speaking exclusive, this event now caters to an Englishspeaking audience as well. During the month of July every year you can catch free street performances.

Les Jardins Botaniques When the bustle of the city life gets overwhelming, take a break in one of Montréal’s many environmental museums. The Botanical Garden is a “beautiful oasis on the paved-over island—lush plants, lots of walking trails, park areas, different types and styles of gardens,” explains Melissa Weber, an environmental scientist and avid traveler. The Botanical Garden of Montréal is one of the largest in the world. Explore over 20 themed gardens, such as the Shade Garden, the Lilac Collection, or the Toxic Plant Garden. There’s even a Youth Garden. But the most popular are the Japanese and Chinese gardens. “You can get lost in there for a long time,” admits Brittany. If you time it right by going before opening hours, you can visit for free. —Lauren Mortenson

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Living

High Life

the

on the

High Seas

Cruises are designed to be one-stop vacations. Within a few days on board the ship, vacationers are offered a variety of experiences. Options range from full-service spas to ziplines and rock walls; from towel-folding classes to shopping seminars; from gyms to boxing rings. Not to mention the free food 24 hours a day every day, or the medical staffs that take care of any problem from seasickness to appendicitis, or activities to entertain every personality. Cruises are one-stop vacations where everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;not just the eliteâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is treated like royalty.

away for a week Deals As with any vacation, getting the best deal requires some shopping around and researching to create the ideal vacation for you. Starting early is one key factor. The sooner you book the cruise, the less expensive it will be. Carolyn Jenson, an avid cruiser and amateur travel agent, suggests booking between nine and twelve months beforehand. “People usually aren’t thinking that far in advance,” she says, “so the rooms are offered at a lower rate.” Carnival Cruise Lines recently had a deal for early savers that allowed cruisers to book their cruise to the Caribbean for as low as $169. Check out your favorite cruise line websites for special deals advertised only on the internet. Though it’s not always possible, you can sometimes find good deals as the ship’s departure date draws closer. In efforts to fill cabins, cruise lines may offer discounted prices for the last remaining rooms. There are many options to finding an ideal balance with shore excursions. Passengers can either book the excursions through the boat or find their own local deals. Booking through the cruise line is generally more expensive because each sale generates commission. However, vacationers are guaranteed to have a quality experience with these cruise line excursions, and if an excursion runs longer than expected and you are unable to return to the ship by departure time, the ship will not leave without you. Booking through local resources also has benefits and drawbacks. “The locals have cheaper prices, and if you book them for early enough in the day, you don’t have to worry about missing

your boat,” Carolyn suggests. “Just make sure you can do what you sign up for. We planned to ride scooters around St. Thomas, but none of us knew how to ride them. It ended up that none of us followed through with the planned excursion.”

Food Many culinary experiences can be had on every cruise ship. Restaurants ranging from Japanese steakhouses to typical burger joints pepper the boats and allow travelers to eat exactly what they are in the mood for. On his most recent cruise, Andrew Jenson ate at least two bowls of mac and cheese each night for dinner along with entrées of steak and shrimp simply because he could. The best part of all this food? Since you paid for everything up front with your ticket price, it’s all free once you’re on board! “Make friends with the head waiter,” Nolan Cordon advises. “Often they have a hidden dish they only bring out for the people they like. One time the maître d’ gave out cheese to us because we had been speaking with him in his native Portuguese. He didn’t do that for everyone.”

Fun Each cruise ship offers different activities on board. Typically cruisers will have the opportunity to attend theatrical shows, participate in poolside activities, party the night away in any number of dance clubs, and much more. Sean Bollinger spent much of his last cruise at a surfing pool on one of the largest ships in the world watching his brother-in-law compete for the honor of “top surfer” of the week.

License to Dive

While scuba diving may not be the cheapest or easiest hobby to take up, there is no substitute for the experiences you can have exploring the underwater world: forests of kelp beds, underwater caves and lava tubes, historic shipwrecks, and an elaborate ecosystem ranging from small starfish to sea turtles to whale sharks. Illustrations by Madeline Fisher

How can I become scuba certified? To become scuba certified, you must complete a certification course offered through various agencies, such as PADI, SSI, NAUI, etc. These courses are administered by local dive shops in your community or can even be taken through a tourist dive shop while you’re on vacation.

What do scuba courses entail? Scuba classes range from four-week courses held once a week to compact weeklong courses (usually offered by the vacation dive shops). Simple classes usually consist of two afternoons of classroom instruction, two sessions of hands-on experience in a swimming pool or shallow area, and two days of open-water experience practicing and checking off the skills learned. A certification is awarded after you pass a written exam.

Peggy Webb, a travel agent, says that “some of the newest ships offer things you would only dream about doing on a ship.” If you want to jump in and get involved, you can often choose from ziplining, rappeling, climbing a rock wall, bowling, sliding down water slides that extend out over the ocean 15 stories high, ice skating, and riding on board surfing machines. If you’d rather just be entertained, you can watch high-wire acts, cliff diving, glass blowing demonstrations, movies and sporting events at giant poolside movie screens, Cirque du Soleil shows, Broadway entertainment, Hollywood celebrity entertainers and impersonators, and amazing magicians and illusionists. Your cruise ship might also boast a Central Park with 20,000 live plants, over ½ acre of real grass, full-size tennis courts with spectator seating, an ice bar where you need fur coats to enter, fireworks shot off the ship at night, parades—and the list goes on and on. Cruises follow travel itineraries in many places around the world— allowing each vacationer to pick the experiences he or she wants to have. Hawaiian, Alaskan, Caribbean, and Mediterranean cruises all offer unique cultural experiences for those willing to disembark for a few hours. “When the ship was docked,” Nolan Cordon says, “I preferred to leave the ship to see the sights and experience the culture.” Wherever, whatever, and whenever your cruising experience, it is sure to be a great time because it will be uniquely yours. —Heather Jenson

How much does a scuba course cost? Most scuba classes offered locally range anywhere from $150 to $200 per person. Dive shops will often offer specials for groups or promotions during certain times of the year. Most universities also offer cheaper classes for college students, so keep your eyes open. The cost of becoming scuba certified while on your vacation can range from $250 to $500, so while it’s fun to get certified in Hawaii, it’s definitely easier on the pocketbook to do it before you get there.

So I’m scuba certified—now what? After receiving your scuba certification, you will be given a card to present to dive shops saying you are a certified diver. Most people will invest in their own mask, snorkel, and fins, but other items required for scuba can be easily rented from shops at your destination. If you still feel uneasy about diving on your own, all dive shops offer guided tours of the local sites, ranging in price from $25 to $50. As you practice your skills, you will become more comfortable in the water. See “Dive America” (page 78) for diving locations.

—Shanna Warr

GONE FISHIN’

Deep-sea fishing in Alaska is an exciting, exhausting, and exhilarating trip. Alaska is one of the most stunning places to go during the summer to cool off and enjoy nature’s sheer beauty. From the ocean to the mountains and glaciers, Alaska is filled with unique plants and wildlife, and the Pacific Ocean has many fish to offer from its depths. Good Fishin’

Scenic Destinations

There are three species of salmon to fish for in Alaska: pink salmon, silver salmon, and king salmon. You can fish for all three species—but at specific times during the season. May to June is king salmon season; June to July you can get pink salmon; July to the beginning of September is a good time for silver salmon; and the end of August through September is when king salmon come back in season. Salmon usually weigh 5 to 25 pounds. Halibut is available during all those months and can grow to weigh 400 pounds, but a more common catch is between 50 and 200 pounds. Other common catches include yelloweye rockfish (like red snapper), sculpin, sea bass, and lingcod—these varieties are always available.

Some of the best places to deep-sea fish in Alaska are Seward, Sitka, and Glacier Bay. All of these places have different benefits. At Seward you can stay at an inn or motel right near the dock where you charter your boat. It is a wonderful spot to go kayaking or hiking and to enjoy the beauty of Alaska up close. Sitka is a great place to take an ocean tour on a boat. Don’t be surprised if you encounter whales, sea lions, eagles, bears, and other wildlife. You can also visit Sitka National Historic Park/Totem Park, which is gorgeous to walk through and has totems along the path. In the visitor center there are some totems that are 100 years old, and along the path there are more newly carved totems that represent the history of the people in that area.

Don’t be surprised if you encounter whales, sea lions, eagles, or bears.

To get that rustic, wilderness atmosphere, stay in a log-cabin lodge. Many lodges offer package deals that include your meals, your boat and captain, and even a fish-filet-and-freezerpack service. An option for those on a budget is to find your own lodging at an inn, cottage, or motel (often cheaper than a lodge) and to charter a boat and captain through a boating company. Be sure to arrange to get a fishing license once you arrive and read up on or ask someone about the fishing regulations. No matter the cost, you won’t be sorry you came when you pull that 150-pound halibut into the boat. It’s a good idea to get fishing gear that will protect you and your clothes from the elements and flapping fish— water-repellant pants, jackets, and gloves should suffice. For those not accustomed to the movements of the ocean, it’s wise to bring pills to ease motionsickness. Plan ahead and take them both the night before and the morning of your fishing expedition. Plan how you are going to get from place to place. There are a myriad of ways to travel including by bus, boat, and even little hopper planes. Find out which will get you to your fishing destination the best and cheapest way. 28 >> summer 2011

One of the many blue and white glaciers that you can see during your visit.

Photography by mckay christensen

Planning Your Trip

While in Glacier Bay, you can take a boat tour of the bay and see the majestic glaciers that surround it. There are good places to pick berries in that area, or you can go on a walk in Glacier Bay National Park and see moose, birds, and bears. The gorgeous Alaskan scenery and wildlife is free; seeing its wonders could be the highlight of your trip. There are several mountains and trails you can hike in all of these places—just make sure you know what paths are safe and watch out for bears!

Fresh Fish! While staying in Alaska, make sure to eat as much fish as possible. If you stay at a lodge, you’ll likely be eating fresh fish just plucked from the ocean. However, the enjoyment of great seafood doesn’t have to end when your trip does. Coming home from an Alaskan fishing trip is a seafood lover’s dream. If you get the fish filleted, vacuumpacked, frozen, and stored in a cooler, you can bring home many varieties of fish to feast on alone or share with friends and family. Alaskan deep-sea fishing is a vacation you won’t soon forget. In the summer the sun sets after midnight and rises before you wake up in the early morning to gear up for fishing. In the evening, you come back to your hotel or lodge exhausted and ready to eat dinner and sleep—but also eager to get back out on the ocean the next day. The trip is majestic, wonderful, and unforgettable. — Sarah Owen Top: Salmon and yelloweyes caught in Seward, Alaska. Above: This breathtaking view awaits those who take a break from the boat.

Work, school, other obligations . . . sometimes, you just need to

get away from it all. Whether you have time to get away for a weekend, a week, or a while, Stowaway wants to hear where you want to go.

Send your ideas for getaways to stowawaymag@gmail.com.

away for a while

, e d r e V e p a c i Ca r f A

Island Hopping

hen asked, “What is something that Americans should know about Cape Verde?” Matt Ipson replies, “That it exists.” Cape Verde is well off the beaten path—an exotic escape most travelers don’t have on their bucket lists, but should. Cape Verde is an island country with ten volcanic islands about 345 miles off the west coast of Africa. Although the islands were uninhabited until Portuguese settlers colonized them in the fifteenth century, they now contain a rich mixture of both African and European culture. “There are Badios and Sampadjudos,” explains Cape Verdean Bryan Monteiro Lopes. “Badios are descendants of a pure African lineage and are

30 >> summer 2011

mostly on the island of Santiago. Sampadjudos come from European lineage and make up the rest of the islands.” Cape Verde is not for the faint of heart, so come ready to hike and barter your way through a place that is uncharted territory for many Americans. Whether you are the adventurer who wants to hike up and into Mount Fogo, or the relaxer who wants to spend time on the black sand beach of São Filipe and listen to the island music, there are activities for everyone on these beautiful islands. Here’s a look at six of Cape Verde’s islands that offer different cultural and entertainment experiences. — Marianne Jurgensmeier

Photography by brad jurgensmeier

Come to São Vicente’s rugged ports to enjoy sailing and other water sports.

2 São Vicente

With its beautiful ports and music festivals, São Vicente has the most prominent European influences. Cobblestone streets in traditional Portuguese fashion take you through the city past candy-colored colonial houses and down to the largest port in Cape Verde—Mindelo. Here you can walk through the port and see true Cape Verdean culture all around you: hardworking, smiling people trying to buy and sell their goods. São Vicente is also known for the Festival de Musica da Baia das Gatas, or the Bay of Sharks music festival. This festival takes place on the beach in the first or second week of August each year. The beach becomes a campground and an open-air nightclub with dancing, music, and drinking until dawn. One of the best musicians at the festival is Cape Verde’s most famous singer, Cesaria Evora. And you won’t want to miss Gil Semedo, the “Michael Jackson of Cape Verde.” Spend the night dancing with the locals and getting acquainted with island music. Bryan Monteiro Lopes explains the two types of popular music: “Zouk, which is a music sung by most of the youth, is a music that speaks of love. Morna is traditional music of Cape Verde that expresses the homesickness of immigrants and also speaks of everyday life.”

A colonial lighthouse and cannon on the island of Santiago.

Santiago

Santiago is the largest of the islands in both physical size and population and is home to the country’s capital, Praia. This island has several historical sites, including Cidade Velha—the first capital of Cape Verde. From the beautiful ruins of cathedrals to the buildings that once held African slaves, the architecture has a sense of gravity and importance that constantly reminds the living of the island’s past. Santiago also holds the famous Sucupira, or open market, where you can mingle with the locals and learn to barter for food, clothing, and African artwork. While walking through Santiago, you will also enjoy the sights of shoeless, wrinkled old men playing Banco, a count and capture game in which you try to collect all of your opponents’ seeds from the game board. After a morning of hard work, men gather throughout the streets to play the game and eat lunch. When you visit Santiago, take the time to learn how to play Banco while enjoying the historical architecture this island has to offer.

Mindelo, the bustling port and capital of São Vicente.

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Santo Antão

Santo Antão is ideal for outdoor lovers. This island has the most beautiful hiking opportunities that Cape Verde has to offer. Starting from the village of Porto Novo, you can take a van to the top of the cloud-covered mountain. Here you feel as though you’re walking in the sky. From there, your hike winds down the opposite side of the mountain through the farmlands of sugarcane. You pass the cement ditches used for irrigation and follow the path as it continues past farmers as they distill their native alcohol, grogue. If you give them a kind smile, you might be lucky enough to be offered a stalk of sugarcane. The hike then crisscrosses among grass-hut homes and ends at the shore at the bottom of the mountain. This beautiful hike takes only about three hours.

The famous mountain hike atop Porto Novo on the island of Santo Antão.

“Fogo is one of the best vacation spots of Cape Verde because of the great volcano and the sympathy and sweetness of the people,” explains Lopes. Fogo is famous for its enormous active volcano, Pico de Fogo. This volcano sits at an impressive height of 5,249 feet, with an interior cone peaking at 9,281 feet. You can drive to Chã de Caldeiras, the city that sits inside part of the volcano, and from there you can hike straight into the active volcano. Many tourists collect rocks from inside the volcano and write their names in the sulfuric sand. Once you climb out of the interior, you have to make a quick jog down the opposite side—a trail that consists of a deep layer of lava rock pebbles. Plan ahead and wear long pants, or your legs might get scratched up from mounds of lava pebbles as you run! Fogo is also known for its beautiful black-sand beaches. “If you go early in the morning—4:00 am— you can catch little crabs and watch the fishermen in the distance working hard on their little fishing boats,” says Brad Jurgensmeier, who once lived on the island of Fogo. Be sure to set your alarm if you want to see this memorable sight! You’ll find that most members of the community wake up early to get their work done before the heavy afternoon heat hits. 32 >> summer 2011

Photography by brad jurgensmeier

4 Fogo

An interior view of Cape Verde’s largest volcano, Mount Fogo.

Jagacida: Cape Verdean Beans and Rice Don’t have the time or money to travel to Cape Verde? Experience a taste of the islands’ flavor by making this Cape Verdean appetizer:

Ingredients

A group of old fishing boats roped to a pier in Sal.

2 tablespoons oil 1 medium onion 3 cups rice 6 cups water 1 (15 oz.) can kidney beans 1 tablespoon paprika 2 bay leaves salt pepper

Directions

5 Sal

Sal is the most Americanized of the Cape Verdean islands. It is definitely the island to visit for those who like relaxing vacations where they are treated like royalty. Here you can find the cushy five-star hotels and the easy-going, stark-blue waters of the oceans. Santa Maria Beach is a great place to be with family and friends of all ages. You can take an easy stroll hundreds of feet out into the shallow, crystal-blue water or engage your adventurous side by windsurfing and diving. Either way, Sal has some of the most beautiful beaches of Cape Verde.

Simmer onion with oil in a two-quart pan until golden brown. Add water, paprika, bay leaves, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil. Add rice and beans. Reduce heat, cover pan and simmer for 25 minutes, or until water is absorbed and rice is cooked. Turn off stove and let stand. —Lydia Ross

Brava

Wacky Wo r S ld

p o rt s

Brava is known as “the island of the flower.” This island is almost always covered in clouds of fog, making it the greenest island of them all. Not many tourists have visited this island because it can be reached only by boat while other islands can be reached by plane. But if you want to see some of the most luscious gardens and scenery you can imagine, a trip to Brava could be just the ticket.

Windsurfing This fast-paced sport mixes surfing and sailing. Famous among windsurfers for its powerful waves, Ponta Preta in Cape Verde is where the Professional Windsurfers Association has held a World Cup event every year since 2007.

π www.pwaworldtour.com/index.php?id=1328 Think this is cool? Check out “Wacky World Sports” in Stowaway’s upcoming Fall 2011 issue. —Pieter Mueller A favorite jumping-off point in Brava.

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Pick Your Continent

International Study Programs at the Kennedy Center serves students, faculty, and departments by facilitating the development and implementation of quality international academic experiences. Use the Program Finder (http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp) to choose the best fit for your academic and professional goals covering four types of programs for any major to department-specific opportunities. Study Abroad

Students attend classes taught by BYU faculty that are enriched by excursions to local sites and immersion in a new culture. Some programs offer general education courses while others offer major-specific courses. These are excellent for students who are traveling overseas for the first time and who want a structured program with plenty of interaction with BYU faculty and students.

Direct Enrollment Students attend classes at an international institution of higher education. Classes are taught by local professors with the credit transferring back to BYU. Direct enrollment is ideal for students who are willing to accept the challenges of facing a new culture on their own or in small groups of other BYU students.

International Stud\ Programs Field Study

A field study is designed to help students prepare for graduate school or a career in cross-cultural/international consulting or research. Small groups of students, or individuals, live within a communityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;immersed in the local culture, as they carry out their own research projects. This type of program requires independent, committed, and self-motivated students, who are willing to prepare themselves through a semester-long preparation course, and who are willing to live in local conditions as members of a culture and community. Students are academically guided by one or several faculty mentors, as well as assisted with logistical arrangements by ISP staff throughout their preparations and field experience.

International Internships

Individual students or small groups work with international companies, government organizations, or development agencies. International internships are intended to provide a practical application of classroom learning. On-the-job experience is enhanced by regular feedback from a BYU faculty mentor. These internships are geared toward students who are independent, self-motivated, and willing to face the challenges of a new culture on their own. 101 HRCB | (801) 422-3686 | isp@byu.edu | kennedy.byu.edu/isp

Features Abolishing an Ancient Disease >> Connect with India in the fight to

eradicate leprosy. page 36

Visit Havasupai >> Discover the beauty of this natural wonder. page 42 Nepal’s boudhanath stupa >> C ircle around an ancient Buddhist

shrine wrapped in prayers and incantations. page 48

Living Life “Legendary” >> Bike across the United States with

Photo courtesy of Matthew Case

Matthew Case and Eric Brewer. page 53

Eric Brewer and Matthew Case dip their bikes into the Atlantic Ocean after completing their 3,000-mile journey. page 53

Abolishing an

Imagine living in a society that has banished you and reduced you to nothing but a beggar.

Ancient Disease By Callie Manion

arpeah—like so many others in India—lived every day in pain. He was banished to live among “his own,” forbidden to associate with the rest of society and reduced to nothing but a beggar. He was also afflicted with a disease that rendered him permanently blind. Being well into his 60s, Carpeah had an 18-year-old grandson, whom he had never been able to see. Fortunately, this tragic story has a happy ending. Everything changed for Carpeah when he was introduced to Rising Star Outreach. After years of living life blind, Carpeah found hope in an operation. Rising Star Outreach found a doctor in India who agreed to operate on him. Normally this treatment is preposterous, unheard of—no one would ever waste time operating on a leprosy patient. But because of Rising Star’s dedication and persistence, Carpeah’s life has been changed forever. He can now see his family and friends and has an entirely different outlook on the world. When I first met him, he wouldn’t stop dancing around me, singing praises to the heavens and shouting “Hallelujah!” Carpeah is one of many people I had the opportunity to spend time with during my trip to India. During that summer, my mom and I explored India in a new way—by volunteering with Rising Star Outreach and working in various leprosy colonies all over southern India, treating the people there both medically and emotionally. The team members of Rising Star go into a different leprosy colony each day and administer medication to all leprosy patients who live there. Rising Star’s mobile medical units provide the leprosy patients with the Multi-Drug Therapy (MDT) they need in order to cure their disease. If the infection is caught early on, the disease can be completely cured and all signs of it healed. The treatment can even help prolonged cases of the infection. Along with the medication, personal hygiene kits are handed out. In these kits are items such as toothbrushes, toothpaste, and antibacterial sanitizer to help the victims clean their wounds and take better care of themselves. The Rising Star anthropology team also goes to the leprosy colonies to speak with the people there. I enjoyed my days on this project sitting with the leprosy victims, listening to their

stories, and holding them close to show them how lovable they truly are. When I wasn’t working directly with leprosy victims at the colonies, I was back at the Rising Star campus helping and playing with the children. The children live and go to school at Rising Star, which gives them a chance for a more successful future. The social stigma that accompanies the disease is sometimes even more damaging than the disease itself. Even if the children remained at the colonies, many would never contract leprosy. In order to develop the disease, you must have a specific genetic component that leaves your body susceptible to the Mycobacterium Leprae (the bacteria that enters your body and causes leprosy). Only 5 percent of the general population have this genetic component—meaning that 95 percent of the general population are naturally immune to leprosy. My experiences in India that summer changed my life, and I hope I helped change the lives of those at the colonies as well. At the Rising Star Outreach campus, the volunteer groups are split into smaller teams. Every day teams wake up early to perform the service they are assigned. One of the service projects I helped with while volunteering was building squatters for one of the leprosy colonies. A “squatter” is a form of toilet in India. Instead of an upright fixture from the ground, squatters are circular holes drilled into the ground with a sewage pipe attached and a brick wall enclosing it. The need for the squatters was obvious. The people in the colony had been using nearby fields to go to the bathroom, but because the government was buying those fields, the people had nowhere to go. Conditions like these are seen in almost every leprosy colony in India, and Rising Star Outreach is working hard to better the living conditions at each colony. To help this particular colony, Rising Star decided to build seven different squatters right there in the middle of their village. The plan called for the squatters’ outer wall to be seven-feet tall and to be completed as quickly as possible— so we went to work. My team worked long hours hauling and laying bricks, mixing cement, smoothing the walls, and building it all up. During the first day on the project, we were able to build a four-foot-high wall around the squatter, and the project was finished the following day by the next team.

My experiences in India that summer changed my life, and I hope I helped change the lives of those at the colonies as well.

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A two-day project is an easy task when weighing it against the lifelong benefits. While we were working, people from the colony came to watch and thank us as we served them. Their glowing faces and kind words made our sacrifice seem small. We also spent many days in the various leprosy colonies, working with the medical team and helping to heal the

Volunteering with Rising Star Outreach let me be a part of something much bigger than me. victims. When we went with the medical team we helped the doctors administer medicine, take patients’ blood pressure, and wash their hands and feet. During my first trip with the medical unit, I had a very special experience. We returned to the same leprosy colony that we had visited on my first trip out—the one where Carpeah lives. As soon as we got off the bus, the people from the village came to meet us, happy to see familiar faces. One man, who I had shared several games of Jenga with during the previous visit, came up to my mom and me and grabbed our hands. He began cheerfully talking to us and pointing toward a group of huts a little ways off. Our translator explained that he was happy to see us again, and this time he wanted to show us pictures of his wife (who we found out later had passed away just a couple of years before) and of his daughters. We were honored that he wanted to invite us into his home, and we quickly accepted and let him lead us away. Once 38 >> summer 2011

inside, we listened as he described each picture hanging on the wall. It was amazing to be with him in his home and listen as he shared private details of his life with us. Though our translator was with us, translation wasn’t necessary. He was speaking a completely foreign language to me, but I knew and could feel the love he was expressing for his family. After we joined back up with the doctors, it was time to get to work. Because the people from that colony were already comfortable with us, it was easy to round them up and get them ready to see the doctors. We began by washing their hands and feet, which were badly wounded. Many people don’t understand that leprosy does not actually kill its victims but causes them permanent and progressive physical disability. These disabilities include severe mutilation of the face and limbs and widespread damage to nerves, bones, eyes, and vital organs. Because of this, many victims of the disease have deep wounds that leave their bones exposed. Their already brittle bones are easily injured because of the loss of sensation in their limbs. Because of the grueling nature of the disease, once the patients lose sensation in their hands and feet they can unknowingly burn themselves, cut themselves, or cause other damage to themselves. After wounding themselves once, it becomes easier for them to fall again and cause even more injuries. One woman I met while spending time with the anthropology team told me that she had fallen only a week before. Because of her loss of sensation in her hands and feet, the bones in those areas had been gnawed away by unnoticed injuries. Her condition, like that of so many others, makes it difficult for her to get around. And on that occasion her balance was off, she wasn’t able to steady herself, and she fell to the hard ground, breaking two ribs.

Photography by Blake behnke

Previous page: An outcast from society, this man has been forced to live at one of the many leprosy colonies found all over India. Above: Two men sit on the hard ground at the colony because their condition makes it difficult to move around.

Her story is not uncommon—many leprosy-affected people have only a few fingers and toes, or none at all. This part of their condition makes it essential for us to wash their sores. By washing them, we can clean them up and then rebandage them to try to help new skin grow and heal their wounds. It was while washing one woman’s feet that I began to connect with the people I was serving and began imagining life as they know it. They know only hardship and cruelty; sympathy and kindness are completely foreign to them. Working with Rising Star Outreach gave me a deeper understanding for their condition and helped me comprehend how much needs to be done. While I was helping the nurses give out hygiene kits and medication to each person, it was rewarding to see their reactions. They all lit up when given these simple commodities that most people in America would take for granted. To show their appreciation, some of them dropped a few rupees to pay us for the medication. Although they have nothing, they still search for something to give. Volunteering with Rising Star Outreach let me be a part of something much bigger than me. I spent the summer immersed in serving the most humble people on earth. It would have been easy to get discouraged by the living conditions, the sweltering heat, or the communication barrier, but the time I spent in India was by far one of the most rewarding experiences I’ve ever had. Traveling to India as a volunteer let me experience India in a unique way. I was able to see India like someone in the lowest caste does. It was one of the most educating, humbling, and introspective times of my life. Parts of this man’s skin have been rubbed almost completely off by various injuries.

How It All Started Becky Douglas—housewife, mother of ten, accomplished violinist, and founder of Rising Star Outreach—is one woman who has followed Ghandi’s charge to “be the change you want to see in the world.” Becky did not even know that leprosy still existed before her daughter Amber, who suffered from bipolar disorder, committed suicide. Soon after Amber’s passing, the Douglases were surprised to find that she had been donating some of her monthly allowance to support an orphan in India. In honor of Amber, family and friends made more donations to the orphanage and, consequently, Becky was invited to be on the board of directors. She decided that if she was going to accept this invitation, a visit to India was in order. On her trip, Becky found that the orphanage was in fairly good condition, but she was shocked by the disfigured beggars who appeared at her car window. When Becky asked about them, her driver informed her that they suffered from leprosy. Becky learned that they rode in from the colonies on public transportation at night because no one wanted to share a bus with them. They would live on the streets of the city until they thought they had collected enough money to take back and survive for another month or so. Becky felt that this lifestyle was completely unacceptable. After she returned home, the faces of those beggars would not leave her mind. “I couldn’t sleep,” she says. “The images just haunted me at night. I finally decided I could either have insomnia forever or I could do something. So I woke up one morning and called three friends. We met around my kitchen table. I said ‘I want to form a charity in India.’”

Rising Star Outreach was launched in April 2004 and was designed to help support other charities in India. But the organization quickly found that it wasn’t accomplishing what its founders had hoped. Becky knew that if they wanted to make a permanent difference in the leprosy colonies, they needed to start their own charity. She wanted to help eradicate leprosy, and simply giving these people some rice was a temporary solution that wasn’t going to do the job. Rising Star opened a home with 27 children from the colonies in a tiny rented facility where they had to sleep shoulder to shoulder and had only one cement driveway to play on. The children were taught English and self-worth, among other things. Now, seven years later, Rising Star has a beautiful million-dollar landscaped campus, complete with a library, computer lab, playground, and dining hall. From that meeting of four women around Becky’s kitchen table, Rising Star has now profoundly blessed the lives of over 20,000 people. Becky’s life was changed by her trip to India, and she says that it changes the lives of all the Rising Star volunteers who come as well. “There is something so satisfying about lifting others. It’s almost intoxicating,” she says, “I think if people come on their travels and spend time doing things that make a difference, that trip becomes a meaningful trip instead of one more palace or one more museum. After a while those things just run together—but this you never forget.”

π www.risingstaroutreach.org. —Addie White

EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.

By Hailee Norton

Tucked away in an offshoot of the Grand Canyon lies Havasupai—Arizona’s hidden paradise. The Havasu ‘Baaja, the aptly named people of the blue-green water, maintain this desert oasis. Havasupai is the ideal place for scaling waterfalls, exploring riverbed travertine (limestone) formations, and relaxing in natural pools to the soothing sound of rushing water.

Previous page: This breathtaking scene is the reward for a lengthy hike. This page, top left: The desert trail to the Havasupai campground begins with a steep descent. Top right: A mule train leaves the campground and prepares to receive a load of hikers’ packs. Bottom right: A relaxing hammock swings over the water at Havasu Falls.

Canyoneering enthusiast Anthony Dunster visited Havasupai in the summer of 2010 and was stunned by the breathtaking scenery. “It’s really unique,” he says. “I’ve never seen a place like it where the water is so clear and has continuous cascading waterfalls for miles down the river. Additionally, the river is accented by giant waterfalls that are just beautiful.” The vibrantly colored water of the Havasu River enhances Havasupai’s features. Anthony explains that the blue-green shade of the water is caused by minerals in the river that coat the dirt, overhanging branches, and rocks with a creamy-white travertine deposit. The whitened riverbeds reflect the color of the water, providing a lovely turquoise contrast to the ruddy canyon walls.

Getting There

“Mules are completely worth the money. It’s the only way to go.”

44 >> summer 2011

backpack on your back and you’re walking through a dry desert with lots of rocks on uneven surfaces. If you’re wearing flimsy footwear, you will have blisters galore.” Those who wish to alleviate the intensity of the hike can send their bags to the campsite on pack-mule trains for an additional fee. Those who don’t mind spending extra money to skip the hike altogether can fly in on a helicopter. Lisa explained that hiking the 10 miles into Havasupai while carrying her equipment in her backpack left her sore for the rest of her trip. She decided to send her pack up with the mule trains on her ascent out of the canyon. “The best decision of my life,” she says. “Mules are completely worth the money. It’s the only way to go.”

Havasu Falls After the hot, dusty hike to the campsite, visitors can relax at the falls and enjoy the reward of their labors—picturesque Havasu. At the top of the campsite, Havasu Falls spills over a cliff in a 100-foot drop into a pool of blue-green water. “There is a lot of exploring, swimming, and relaxing,” Anthony says. “Some people would spend the majority of the day next to one pool relaxing. Next to Havasu Falls there was a hammock strung across the river. You could lie in the hammock, and it was just the right height so that you were actually floating in the water.” With its stunning scenery, Havasu Falls is the perfect place to relax after a long day of hiking.

Photography by anthony dunster

To enjoy the rewards of this hidden oasis, visitors undertake a lengthy hike. Traveling to the remote falls of Havasupai can be strenuous. The desert trail from the parking lot to the village of Supai stretches eight miles. Visitors must hike an additional two miles from Supai to reach the camping grounds. “It’s a sheer drop-off of some thousand feet,” says Anthony about his descent into the village, “and the initial part of the hike into the village is switchbacks down a mountainside. After you get down that initial cliff face, it’s mostly gradual downhill.” Lisa Heninger has visited Havasupai three times and advises that campers begin their trailhead descent early: “We slept at the top of the trailhead so we could wake up bright and early, around 4:00 am, to start the hike. We didn’t want to be hiking in the heat of the day.” Hikers can rest at Supai and purchase food, but they must continue trudging on the desert trail to reach the campsite. Anthony stresses the importance of packing light and wearing supportive footwear to manage the 10-mile hike. “You want to wear strong, sturdy hiking shoes when you’re carrying a heavy

“I love the hike down to Mooney Falls, but it definitely could be dangerous if you weren’t smart about it.” Mooney Falls

Top: Two-hundred-foot-long Mooney Falls froths over the side of the canyon wall. Bottom: The path down Mooney Falls begins in a tunnel with stairs chipped into the rock.

Mooney Falls roars at the end of the campsite. This 200-foot waterfall, named for a miner who fell to his death at the end of the nineteenth century, can be tricky to descend. To get to the pool at the base of the falls, visitors must climb down the cliff face. As Anthony remembers, “There is this sign that says ‘Trail This Way,’ and you go down into this etched hole in the wall, like a cave, and the tunnel comes out the other side right on the face. You could easily fall to your death, but there are chains to hang onto and metal spikes driven into the rock and rudimentary steps chipped out as you climb down that face.” The trail snakes down the cliff face and ends with an aluminum ladder. Spray from the thundering waterfall makes this last leg of the trail slippery. Though scrambling down the trail can be nerve-racking, the thrilling descent is what Lisa www.stowawaymag.com << 45

most enjoys about these falls. “I love the hike down to Mooney Falls,” she says. “But it definitely could be dangerous if you weren’t smart about it. If you are scared of heights, it could definitely be a problem. If you take your time and hold on to the railings, there is no problem.”

Beaver Falls Once visitors make the descent down Mooney Falls, they can hike an additional four miles downstream to a series of cascading waterfalls called Beaver Falls. These falls formed where Beaver Canyon and Havasu Canyon meet. “We hiked for a couple of hours to get there, so it’s quite the trek,” says Anthony. “At some places, you have to pull yourself up a cliff with a rope, or there is a log leaning against a wall that you try to climb up.” Beaver Falls showcases a series of 15- to 20-foot waterfalls with small pools ideal for cliff jumping. Exploring these falls is one of Lisa’s favorite memories from her last trip. “The best part was jumping off all the falls and swimming down the river.” Though these falls require more effort to reach, the adventure of clambering over waterfalls is well worth the journey.

“At some places, you have to pull yourself up a cliff with a rope.” Always Changing Heavy rain and flash floods can divert the river and create new waterfalls in Havasupai. After flooding in 2008, Navajo Falls disappeared. Lisa remembers the now extinct Navajo Falls: “You could hike up to the top, and there were hundreds of falls. It was the most beautiful place ever.

There were also the perfect rocks to jump off of. It was the first time I jumped off something taller than 10 feet.” Though Navajo Falls dried up, the flooding created two new falls yet to be named by the Havasupai tribe. Anthony encountered one of the new falls and recollects, “Not only was the location beautiful, but it was exhilarating to jump off a 30-foot waterfall. Once you jump down, you can swim around to the side of it and walk behind the water. There is a shelf behind it that could fit 10 people. It’s a really fun area to just play in and explore.” Because Havasupai changes with the river flow, it is a place worth visiting multiple times to explore the new features it has to offer.

Booking Your Trip Recent flooding caused the park to be closed to visitors, and reservations were not accepted until February 2011. Camping spots are limited to protect the grounds, so reservations should be made a few months in advance. Havasupai is not only a breathtaking vista: it is also an adventure! Traverse rocky pools. Discover what is behind the waterfall. Drink in the cliffs, the blue-green waters, and the peace that comes from exploring nature. Don’t forget to take lots of pictures, because your trip to Havasupai will be an experience to remember. For more information, visit— π www.havasupaitribe.com

Check out Stowaway’s website for an online exclusive, “Hike Ohio: Nelson-Kennedy Ledgers.”

5 Tips for

Eating on the Trail

Planning meals for a backpacking trip can be daunting, but it’s not impossible. A little basic knowledge can not only make the process a lot easier but can also help you get the nutrition you need without adding more weight to your pack.

1. Remember basic nutrition • During a hiking trip, your body needs an average of 3,000 to 4,000 calories per day. This generally equals about a pound and a half to two pounds of food per day and can easily take up a fourth or even half of your pack, depending on the length of the trip. • You’ll need short-term energy sources, such as carbohydrates, starches, and sugars—as well as long-term energy sources, such as proteins and fats.

2. Plan simple breakfasts You’ll want breakfast to be a quick nutrition-filled meal that will start your day off right. Try some of these ideas: Instant oatmeal Granola Cereal Powdered milk

Pop-Tarts Cereal bars Eggs

3. Keep lunch easy A variety of snacks packaged for easy access can be your best bet. Jerky Trail mix Small candies Crackers

Dried fruit Granola bars Energy bars Cheese sticks

4. Focus on dinner Dinner will probably be your biggest meal of the day and require more preparation. Here are some simple dinner ideas: Hamburger Helper meals (brown, then bake to dehydrate) Dehydrated soup mixes

Ramen noodles (great with fish) Instant mashed potatoes and gravy Pastas

5. Drink plenty of water and other liquids Staying hydrated is essential and requires camping close to a lake or river. • Purify your water by using a water filter or iodine tablets—or by boiling it. • Make sure you have enough water bottles and other containers on hand to fill with water. Since purified water often tastes strange and hikers can easily get tired of drinking it, try using powdered drinks to help mask the flavor, such as hot chocolate, cider, Crystal Lite, lemonade, Propel, and Gatorade.

—Lydia Ross

Above: Flooding often diverts water runoff in such a way that it appears to flow from the trees. Facing page, top: Two swimmers wade closer to the stinging spray of Mooney Falls. Bottom: Water cascades down the rocks at Beaver Falls.

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Devotees circle around the stupa (Buddhist shrine) while pigeons, emblems of peace, hover above the dome.

48â&#x20AC;&#x201A; >> summer 2011

Early Morning at Nepal’s Boudhanath Stupa By Shertok Samyak

photo by Darren Cheng Chih-Wang

he dawn has not broken yet. Many are still in their beds, wrapped up in thick quilts. Only the occasional bark of a dog punctuates the tranquility. It’s Saturday morning, but my mother, a devout Buddhist, is already awake and cannot wait to embark on her journey: she is ready to go visit the Boudhanath Stupa, one of the holiest and largest Buddhist stupas in the world. It is located about seven miles from downtown in the northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital city, but it is only a 15-minute walk from my home. Pilgrims flock to this stupa very early in the morning, and my mother wants to offer her worship before it is crowded and the peace of morning is broken. “Just a minute, ama,” I yell from my closet as I search for my scarf and beanie. “This is the third time you’ve said ‘a minute.’ I’m leaving now,” my mother yells from outside the house. She is wearing her thick, warm chhyupa. When I finally slip the beanie onto my head, wrap the scarf around my neck, and come out running, she is already on her way. Her prayer beads are carefully tucked in her right hand, her fingers busy moving them—one bead for each Om Mani Padme Hun, a Buddhist prayer. Seeing her in her crimson chhyupa, I’m embarrassed at my jeans and Converse shoes. I wish I didn’t feel odd wearing daura suruwal and dhaka topi, the national dress of Nepal. But these days my friends and I wear it only on very special occasions. I don’t want to feel uncomfortable embracing my culture, but I’m unable to escape the peer pressure.

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The eyes of Buddha, which represent love and kindness, constantly watch the devotees from atop the dome.

50 >> summer 2011

Prayer flags, with mantras printed on them, flutter in the morning breeze.

get the sense of being watched by the pairs of Buddha’s eyes painted on each side of the four-sided pedestal, representing compassion and love. Between the eyes is painted the Nepali number one as a symbol of unity. This symbol is also interpreted by the Buddhists as indicating that the path shown by Buddha is the only way out of the sufferings of the world. Above the eyes sits the third eye, which symbolizes either the wisdom of looking within or the eye of God. Above the four-sided pedestal is a pyramid with 13 stairs representing the 13 steps towards enlightenment, and the pyramid is topped with a gilded canopy representing nirvana. Prayer flags strung together on a rope stretch from the canopy of the stupa to the prayer flagpoles at the base, sparsely covering the stupa all around. We join the crowd circling the dome clockwise. The pilgrims also spin the prayer wheels clockwise. At the top sits a gilded spire, representing perfect knowledge. More than once I’ve tried to imagine how everything looks from this golden top. I have heard several legends about the construction of the Boudhnath, which claim the stupa to have been built in the fifth century ad. My mother’s favorite legend says that a woman asked her king to donate land to build a stupa. The king promised to give her as much land as the skin of one buffalo could cover. The woman cut a buffalo skin into thin strips and circled a large area of land, which the king was then obligated to grant her. When my mother is done telling this legend, I grin at the woman’s wit and ask my mother, “What prompted her to build a stupa of this scale?” My mother grins back at me. “Buddha’s power, what else?”

Photography on this page by Saurabh DHOJ joshi

I don’t remember when it began, but it has become almost a ritual to visit the Boudhanath Stupa, a UNESCO world heritage site since 1979, every Saturday morning with my mother. These days I’m mostly with my friends, and I hardly spend any time with my mother outside the house. As I finally catch up to her, I notice a sacred silence in the air. When my friends and I walk this street this early, the dogs bark at us as if they owned the street. But when my mother is there, they don’t bark at all, as if they don’t want to break the silence that surrounds her. A few shopkeepers are opening the doors and shutters of their roadside shops. A bell rings from one of the open windows. Someone must be performing a puja in his house. A bird chirps from somewhere behind the houses. “Phyaphulla, angi!” People we meet on the way greet my mother. “Phyaphulla!” She returns their greeting. My mother walks very slowly, taking in every detail along the way. “At this speed we will reach the stupa tomorrow morning,” I tease her. “At your age I used to fly like a bird.” Her mouth is very quick. I laugh. A motorcycle whizzes past us, leaving behind a plume of smoke. The road is empty except for a few Buddhist devotees walking towards the Boudhanath Stupa. Most go with empty stomachs, but some can’t resist the pleasure of sipping warm milk tea. The closer we get to the stupa, the thicker the presence of people becomes. We can hear the continuous recantation of mantras, mostly Om Mani Padme Huns. The air, ripe with prayers, is filled with the smell of burning incense. I love the sounds leaving the worshippers’ lips to create a cadence and mysterious spell around us. Even though it is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Nepal, hardly any tourists can be seen at this hour. It’s just the devotees and some local people like me. Finally we reach the brick floor around the stupa. I notice that many devotees have already arrived and have begun performing kora, circling the stupa clockwise. Some come as early as 4:00 am, when it’s still pitch-dark outside. I’ve visited the Boudhanath Stupa about a thousand times, yet there is always more to learn about it. I’m always awed by the massive three-story mandala structure that rises to a height of 36 meters (about 118 feet). Every time I’m there, I

From Top: Photos by Saurabh dhoj Joshi, Dom pates/flickr

We join the crowd circling the dome. As we kora the stupa, we witness the representations of the 108 forms of Avalokiteshvara, who is closely associated to Buddha. My mother spins all 108 prayer wheels, which are carved with Avalokiteshvara’s mantra, Om Mani Padme Hun, and mounted in niches around the stupa. But I spin only the larger prayer wheels. I’m fascinated by the manifestation of religious tolerance at Boudhanath in the form of Kasyap, a Hindu sage whose remains supposedly lie here. While I haven’t seen many Hindus coming here to pray, all my Hindu friends come here with me to light the lamps or just sit on the topmost mandala for the panoramic view and benign breeze. After rounding the stupa five times, I follow my mother into a small room filled with butter lamps. We each light three butter lamps and pay 18 rupees altogether. Then we head onto the second level to feed wheat to pigeons. Where the stairs that take us to the second story end, a woman is selling bags of corn, wheat, and rice. We buy two bags of wheat, 10 rupees each. As we feed the pigeons, they come closer and closer until their wings brush our feet as if in gratitude. From here, we get a spectacular view of the crowd circling the stupa and the façades of houses around it. On the ground level, cross-legged on cobblestones, monks buzz like bees. Here and there, beggars respectfully stretch their hands toward the prayer flags flapping in the breeze, asking for alms. Tring—someone drops a coin into a bowl. Pilgrims continue to kora the structure chanting mantras, spinning prayer wheels mounted in niches and also spinning handheld prayer wheels. Somewhere in the middle of the moving crowd, a few ragged men circle the dome by prostrating: they spin the stupa not on their feet but on their body, going flat on the floor and then rising up. The sun has finally risen and its first rays hit the stupa, bathing it in gold. The road just beyond the houses is coming to life. I can hear the engines beginning to purr. A quick, sharp honk of a taxi follows a fat, loud honk of a truck. A young boy on a bicycle too tall for him tries to weave his way through the crowd on the brick pavement, his thumb constantly ringing the bell.

Above: Devotees offer worship by prostrating on the wooden planks in the Boudhanath Stupa. Bottom: Prayer wheels, engraved with Om Mani Padme Huns mounted in niches around the stupa, get a break from being continuously spun.

Soon the kernels of wheat are gone, the pigeons fly to other people scattering rice and corn, and we descend the stairs. For the last time, my mother turns toward the stupa, joins her hands to form a Namaste, her prayer beads snug between the palms, and bows her head. As we head home leaving behind the stupa wrapped in prayers and incense, I’m most grateful toward the stupa for bringing me closer to my mother.

I biked over 600 miles in Iceland in less than three weeks. I saw the rare grey fox, thousands of waterfalls, blue lagoons, giant fjords, and more. It was epic!

Before I left for Reykjavik, I knew chafing would be a major concern — I made sure MiraCell was the first thing in my first aid kit. I didn’t have to worry about any skin problems. Whenever I have any skin problems, Skin Relief & Support by MiraCell is the first thing that goes on. —Taylor Allred

Salt Lake City, Utah, USA

MiraCell uses natural plant extracts that support the miraculous healing power of your skin.

You can see more of my pictures at www.lightworldphotography.com ~Taylor

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Living Life

Photography by Matthew Case and Eric Brewer

By Elyse Harris

After just two days, their arms were sore, their legs had cramped, and they still had 3,000 miles left to go. They slept on the cold, hard ground and ventured into rainstorms. But Eric Brewer and Matthew Case couldn’t abandon their friendship motto of “living life legendary.” “We felt like this trip went right along with that motto,” Matthew told me. As both bikers recounted their experience on the bike trip, I gleaned their excitement in telling their story—even though it had been two years since their trip.

atthew and Eric had been best friends for years, and for much of that time they joked about taking a coastto-coast bike trip. They started seriously considering the idea right before entering college. “My dad, Scott Brewer, did a similar bike ride when he was 21, and we thought it was cool,” Eric told me. A few years later, their joke became a reality.

Tasks before the Trip In preparing for such an extensive journey, the two divided the tasks between themselves—Eric planned the route, and Matthew gathered the gear. Because they were also enrolled in university classes, it took several months to fully prepare. “We spent a lot of our free time preparing for the trip,” Matthew told me. But even those months of planning didn’t completely prepare them for it. They had no way of knowing all the adventures that would come—from the people they would encounter, to the physical and mental hardships that would come along the way, and even the small miracles that would happen when everything else seemed to go wrong. May 8, 2008, marked the day they planned to leave, but they were faced with a serious problem—Eric didn’t have his www.stowawaymag.com << 53

bike. Miraculously, a large package arrived that very morning, and the bike inside was assembled just in time for them to walk to the Greyhound bus that would take them from Utah to Oregon so they could start on the coast.

Biking Beginnings

“

Starting on the coast of Florence, Oregon, they rode their bikes for several miles until they hit their first obstacle—the Cascade Mountains. With an elevation increase of over 4,000 feet, they were certainly in for a surprise. “Those hills were killer,” Eric recounted on their blog. “It seemed as though they would never end.” He admitted to me that neither he nor Matthew “had trained very much and weren’t in the groove of biking either.” It was especially grueling in the terrible weather con ditions that followed. “On our way up, we ran into a bunch of snow,” Eric blogged. But when I asked if they’d ever considered giving up, Eric was quick to respond: “We always knew we could do it and finish it. We were pretty dead set on doing it.” After making it past the steep mountains, they found themselves faced with another problem—lack of food. While battling steep hills, headwinds, and bad weather, they found themselves in a constant state of hunger. “We would need to eat about every twenty miles,” Matthew told me. “We estimated that we were burning about 7,000 calories a day that need to be replenished. We’d eat whatever we could get our hands on.” Matthew told me one of his favorite eating experiences: “One time we went to CiCi’s Pizza, which is a pizza buffet. We went there and ate a bunch, and then we felt that ‘after-lunch tiredness.’ We both fell asleep at the table. And then we woke up, ate again, and left.”

We knew we had

two choices: make it to Hemingford or die a very cold, wet death on the side of the road.”

Wacky Wo r S ld

p o rt s

Extreme Biking Biking 129 miles over five mountain passes for a combined climb of 15,000 feet is a daring feat for any cyclist. When done in one day it is called the Death Ride. This tour of the California Alps is possibly the greatest challenge a bicyclist could ever face. In 2010, the event brought 3,500 riders ready to face that challenge.

π www.deathride.com Think this is cool? Check out “Wacky World Sports” in Stowaway’s upcoming Fall 2011 issue. —Pieter Mueller

Top: Eric smiles in Illinois after passing over the then-flooded Mississippi River. Middle: SURPRISE! Nebraska that is. Bottom: Eric and Matthew slept in their tent the vast majority of the trip, like this secluded spot outside of Brothers, Oregon.

Eric and Matthew stayed one night with an Amish family in Illinois, sharing great food and stories and learning how much they had in common with these kind and giving people.

Unlucky, but Not Luckless On June 1, almost a month into their trip, Matthew and Eric ran into a bit of bad luck—both had flat tires, and neither had the necessary supplies to fix them. Fortunately, the two were at a gas station and were quickly offered a ride. Unfortunately, they would spend the next hour fearing for their safety. “We accepted and soon realized that this would be a car ride to remember,” Eric blogged that night. “The three other men in the car, including the driver, were all drinking beer.” Luckily, they “made it to Casper alive” and got their flat tires fixed. A week later, they were in Nebraska—and with that came the thunderstorms. “The first night it rained,” Matthew blogged. “And as we rode the second day, it rained like I have never seen in my life! Imagine racing down a road at 30 mph, completely soaked, with water dripping off your face and barely being able to see in front of you because the rain is falling so thick, and the only thing keeping you from getting hypothermia is the fact that you continue riding your bike!” But they were still several hours outside the nearest town. “We knew we had to pick between two choices: make it to Hemingford, or die a very cold, wet death on the side of the road. We chose life.” Once they arrived in Hemingford, they met a kind couple who owned a local bed and breakfast. “They actually let us stay with them free of charge,” Matthew shared on his and Eric’s blog. “We feel so richly blessed by their kindness and charity, and we only wish we could do something in return to show them how thankful we are.” But they had to continue on their bike trip if they were going to make it to Carolina Beach. The next day they headed out on the road facing beautiful weather and with good tailwinds at their backs. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a sign of what was to come next. “We hadn’t gone more than 16 miles when I looked down at my front wheel and felt that something was wrong,” blogged Matthew. “I reached for my brake to check it out when all of a sudden my entire front wheel fell off my bike, shattering my front fender and sending me flying over the front handlebars.

“

reached for my brake when all of a sudden my entire front wheel fell off my bike.”

“Nothing could stop our momentum, not nails, and not road rash from wrecks,” said Matthew. “We took everything with laughter, even using a Band-Aid to reinforce a patch on Eric’s tire.”

These weren’t their only encounters with odd eating habits. About a third of the way through the trip, they figured out some creative ways of getting all their calories, like devouring entire half-gallons of milk with cheap cereals, or downing as many McDonald’s double cheeseburgers (nicknamed Double Smackers) as they could. Even on their more relaxing days, they were almost always hungry. During the trip, Matthew recorded, “We’ve been extremely hungry, even though we haven’t done anything for the past two days.” Eric recorded, “We just sat for a long time and ate. Yesterday we ate a lot, and we ate a lot today.”

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It all happened so terribly fast, but I remember Eric (who was riding close behind me) crashing into my suddenly stationary bike and then sliding belly first on the asphalt.” Amazingly, Eric had no injuries, and Matthew came away with only a few scrapes, a messed-up jersey, and a banged-up bike. Good fortune struck again when a young man in a truck pulled over and offered them a ride to Alliance, Nebraska.

Kentucky and Tennessee and made it into North Carolina— their last state. On July 10, 2008, more than two months after leaving the Pacific coast in Florence, Oregon, Eric and Matthew reached the Atlantic Ocean’s Carolina Beach, North Carolina, welcomed by a crowd of family members.

“Yes, a thousand times,” Matthew said. “It was one of the best experiences of my entire life, and I think it will remain there.” Eric agreed: “It was definitely worth it. It was worth the time, and it was worth the money and every inconvenience and discomfort.”

Are We There Yet? Matthew and Eric pressed forward, moving from Nebraska to Iowa. Though Iowa is filled with rolling hills, they rode most of the way through without any major difficulties. Within a few days, they reached Illinois. To keep on schedule, they were biking between 50 and 75 miles a day. Illinois turned out to be a breeze, which was fortunate as they made a few stops at historical sites along the way. Soon they were in Indiana, Matthew’s boyhood home. After they crossed the Mississippi River, they left the small towns of the West and entered the large cities of the East. Though the cities were larger, the states were smaller, so they passed through more states in less time. Within a week they barreled through

Was It Worth It?

Check out Stowaway’s website for an online exclusive, “5 Tips to Recording Your Trip.”

The bittersweet end of a life-changing journey to Carolina Beach, North Carolina.

Field Notes Photo Contest winners >> Check out readersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; photos of Fairs and Festivals from around the globe. page 58

Tales from the trip >> Has this ever happened to you? Read these travelersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; stories. page 62

highway highlight >> Get to know the Atlantic coastline as you travel

down I-95. page 64

Photo by Taber andrew bain

Profile >> Calvin Lawrence takes the Appalachian Trail in stride. page 66

Why go east or west when you can go north and south on I-95. page 64

Photo Contest Winners

Fairs and Festivals

st In the Shadow of LaTour Eiffel

58 >> summer 2011

Allyson Beddes Vernal, UT

“Another word for a festival is a celebration, and when I took this photo in Paris, what struck me was how life is about the little celebrations along the way. This carousel isn’t a world attraction; it is in fact a small light in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. In comparison it may seem insignificant, but its beauty and charm was inspiring, celebrating the simple joys of little kids smiling and laughing, parents snapping photos of their children, and couples laughing and holding each other tightly as they spun around. Happiness is a universal language, and it’s the small celebrations in life that bring true happiness. As I tried to capture in my photo, the significance of those moments should never be overlooked.”

nd A High Jump McKay Christensen Spanish Fork, UT

“During the 2010 Alaska state fair, an equestrian touring group performed many dazzling stunts and tricks. It is amazing how high they can jump while standing on a moving horse!”

rd Sleeve Dance Kevin Ellsworth Salt Lake City, UT

“Xi’an is one of my favorite cities in China. There is a rich history associated with the city and many opportunities to learn about it. From the ancient city wall to the terracotta warriors, Xi’an is full of reminders of the past. The celebration in this photo highlights many of the significant events of Xi’an and Chinese history. The traditional ‘sleeve dance’ celebrates the glory of Xi’an during the Tang Dynasty, when it was the capital city and cultural center of China.”

To see this contest’s honorable mentions, visit Stowaway’s website.

www.stowawaymag.com << 59

tales from the trip

Mistaken in Peru A few years back, some friends found cheap tickets to Peru. Hiking the Incan Trail to Machu Picchu had always been a dream of mine, so I jumped at the chance. When we arrived in Cusco, we had no idea where our hostel was or even how to ask for directions. Perhaps it was the backpacks, our white skin, or the dazed look on our faces that clued him in, but a man immediately deduced where we were headed. “You go to Loki, yes?” he asked. “You come. I take you.” Loki Hostel has a wild reputation that isn’t unfounded. The first thing a visitor sees upon entering the first courtyard is a whiteboard reminding people to have safe sex. And the parties there tended toward the wild side. We definitely weren’t in Utah anymore. I regretted how cheap we were when we had made reservations there. But for four bucks a night, we were willing to put up with quite a bit. On the way to Loki, our cab driver, Angel, asked us what we were going to be doing. We told him about the hike and three unplanned days before it. “You want to see sexy woman?” he asked in his stilted English. Obviously Angel knew about Loki’s reputation and assumed we shared the promiscuous disposition of its usual boarders. “No thanks,” we said. Angel insisted, ignoring our objections, “You see sexy woman. You see sexy woman.” Over our vigorous protests, he told us he’d get us tickets. A knot formed in my stomach. We hadn’t been on the ground 30 minutes, and we were already in an awkward situation. Our driver was determined that we see “sexy woman.” As it turned out, Sacsayhuamán—not “sexy woman”—is the ruin of a massive Incan temple just outside Cusco. The complex was the site of the last stand between Incan warriors and their European invaders in the 15th century. Guess we didn’t seem that wild after all. —Stu Back American Fork, Utah

Between a Rock and a Tour Bus

American Deity

My husband and I traveled to the Holy Land in the summer of 1975. We were with a group of religion teachers, touring the lands of the Old and New Testaments. On one of our stops, the bus driver carelessly drove over a rock in the parking lot, and the bus became high centered on the rock. He tried everything—reverse, forward, revving the engine, etc.—but the bus stayed high centered on the rock. One of the teachers in our group, Gary Empey, was quite a large man, and he talked with the bus driver about what to do. Then he lay on his back under the back of the bus with his feet braced against the rear tire axle. When he gave the signal, the bus driver once again revved the bus while Gary pushed his feet against the axle. He was able to push the bus off the rock. It was very funny to watch, but it accomplished the task. We were able to go on with our tour for that day.

My favorite vacation experience was traveling and exploring in Guilin, Guangxi, China. The 32-hour train ride was definitely not my favorite, but once I arrived, I was in love! The mountains were mesmerizing, and I could barely take my eyes off the surroundings long enough to watch where I was walking. Guilin was the ultimate outdoor adventure with white-water rafting, bicycling, bamboo rafting, fishing at dusk, and hiking countless karst towers and rice terraces. The first day I was there, I biked up the mountains and then strapped my bike to a bamboo raft and floated down the Li River. Once down the river, I resumed my bike ride, hoping to reach an underground mud cave. On my way, I veered off the path and ended up in a tiny village that had never seen an American before. Instantly, the entire village swarmed me and started touching my hair and skin. It was beyond the strangest thing I have ever encountered! Later, I found the caves and had a blast exploring them. All of my experiences in Guilin were memorable, but I will always remember my village folk who almost made me their deity.

—Patricia Hirschi Kaysville, Utah

Cran-Lapple A flight attendant handed me my cran-apple juice simultaneously with the announcement that we were coming into turbulence in flight. I suddenly had a lapful of red juice. An attendant brought me feminine products to sop it up.

62 >> summer 2011

—Maren Eargle Champion, Ohio

—Shelene Webb Mesa, Arizona Have interesting tales from your trip? Submit them to www.stowawaymag.com, and your story could be published in our next issue!

Illustration by Madeleine Fisher

More Tales from the Trip

The smallest change can make the biggest difference.

Live, learn, and work with a community overseas. Be a Volunteer.

peacecorps.gov

highway highlight

Moving Right Along

6 must-see sights on I-95

Traveling down the East Coast this summer? If you’re taking I-95, why don’t you try some of these locations that offer something more exciting than your usual rest stops?

Sharon, Massachusetts Picking Farm-fresh Berries

Ward’s Berry Farm in Sharon, Massachusetts, is the perfect stop for lunch. The family-owned farm and roadside market features fresh fruits and vegetables, along with home-baked artisan breads, gourmet cheeses, homemade jams, and fruit baskets. Enjoy a great meal at the sandwich counter and deli and then check out the soft-serve ice cream and slushies at the smoothie bar. If you’re not hungry for a full meal, you can take advantage of their “pick-your-own” policy for in-season strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries. While eating delicious food, you can also enjoy the beautiful greenhouse, which is filled with bedding plants, hanging baskets, and perennials during the summer.

Wilmington, Delaware Admiring City Sights and Nature Views In the Wilmington area, I-95 passes right through the Russell W. Peterson Urban Wildlife Refuge, one of the only urban refuges in the country. This beautiful haven has been restored in the last ten years and now contains 212 acres of protected urban wetland. Meant to help city-dwellers gain interest in the natural world around them and to reestablish species that once thrived in the area, this is a place where city, river, and marsh meet. Visiting this sight will not only provide you with beautiful and unique views, but will also teach you about the way human actions can affect the world around us. There are many ways you can see the refuge: visit the Dupont Environmental Education Center to learn more about the wildlife in the refuge; paddle the tidal Christina River, a source of drinking water for more than four hundred thousand people; or simply enjoy the view by taking the Wilmington River Taxi, which operates from April to October.

Richmond, Virginia Taking a Walk into the Past

If you want to see all that Richmond has to offer, you should plan to spend a week there. But if you’ve got only an afternoon, a must-see for anyone with an interest in American history is the Museum of the Confederacy. This place documents the history of Richmond during the Civil War and contains photos, artifacts, and flags from the period. (A small fee is charged for admission.) While an afternoon may not be enough to see everything, it is definitely worth visiting, even if you catch only a glimpse. 64 >> summer 2011

South of the Border, South Carolina Visiting a Rest Stop of Mexican Culture

Illustrations by Joy liberatore

The best way to describe this town is Dixie meets Old Mexico. Here you can enjoy rich Mexican food, buy all kinds of fireworks in the summer, and soak in the quaint local atmosphere. The town even has a mascot, Pedro, a mustached caricature who wears an oversized sombrero. Keep your eyes open for the 200-foot tower wearing a sombrero and drive between the legs of a smiling Pedro statue as you enter town.

Savannah, Georgia

St. Augustine, Florida

Adventuring Outdoors on Tybee Island

Talking with Colonials

Tybee Island is a secluded little place tucked away just 20 minutes outside of Savannah, Georgia. The island boasts miles of beach and offers lovers of the outdoors the opportunity to go fishing, biking, or kayaking. Forgot your bike or kayak? No problem! There are places to rent them on the island. Just don’t forget to bring your camera to capture the beautiful scenery you’ll see.

St. Augustine may be a few miles off I-95, but as the oldest city in the United States, it’s well worth the visit. Many of the buildings and attractions reflect the city’s Spanish heritage. During the city’s early years as a Spanish outpost, Castillo de San Marcos, Fort Mose, and Fort Menendez provided protection for the original Spanish settlement. You can visit all three of these sites, but Castillo de San Marcos is probably the most impressive. Built from coquina, virtually indestructible limestone comprised of broken seashells and coral, the castillo took 23 years to build and has withstood enemy attacks and 300 years of violent storms. To immerse yourself even further into the town’s history, you can visit the Colonial Spanish Quarter, a living history museum. Historical interpreters in costume depict everyday life of 1740s St. Augustine, when the city was a distant outpost of Spain’s vast empire. A conversation with the town blacksmith or a soldier’s wife will take you back in time to an age before interstates and car trips. —Tyler Beckstrom and Lydia Ross

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profile

Calvin “Torch” Lawrence How did you start your hike? My parents drove me to Georgia. We spent the night in a lodge, and I started hiking the next day. The whole way there I was mentally going over my gear to make sure I didn’t forget anything. When I reached the trail I was so excited I just threw on my pack and started walking. I didn’t even say good-bye.

What were your feelings as you began, and how did those feelings change?

alvin Lawrence has hitchhiked into town, fallen and rolled 25 feet down a rocky slope, traipsed through cow pastures, ridden 36 hours on a bus, and hiked more than 1,600 miles—all in six months. An avid hiker and camper, Lawrence has immersed himself in the lifestyle of the Appalachian Trail. “I like the freedom of having no responsibilities,” he says. “Hiking the trail is like taking a break from life while still enjoying life-changing experiences.” As a thru-hiker—someone who hikes long distances—Calvin has had some life-changing experiences. He hiked most of the trail on his first hike in 2009 and has a second hike planned for this summer. His goal this time is to hike the entire trail—and also to have another fun adventure. Calvin shared with Stowaway some of his insights about hiking the Appalachian Trail.

As an introduction to our readers, tell us a little about yourself. Where are you from, and do you do a lot of hiking there?

What is the trail route? The trail runs through 14 states from Georgia to Maine. Most people who thru-hike will go in one direction, either north or south. After covering the Trees along the Appalachian Trail are first 460 miles I knew I marked with this unique symbol to wouldn’t be able to finish ensure that hikers stay on course. the next 1,700‑plus before winter hit, so I decided to take a bus up north and start hiking south.

Okay. You say most people hike in one direction, but do the rest switch directions like you did? I’ve heard that “flip-flopping” like what I did has become more common in recent years. People have time restraints and want to reach certain parts of the trail or, like me, they’re trying to beat the weather.

A term I’ve heard used recently is “hiker trash,” and I guess that applies to me. It basically means that I live to hike. When I’m not on a trail, I’m saving money for my next adventure. My plans for the future don’t extend any farther than the end of a map. I’m from Fort Wayne, Indiana. The area’s suited for farming, but it’s severely lacking where hiking is concerned. I find the flat terrain monotonous.

Since weather is such a big issue for hikers, when is the best time to do a thru-hike?

Why did you choose to hike the Appalachian Trail?

How is trail life different from normal life?

Most people I talked with didn’t have a simple answer for this. It’s usually something like “I’ve always wanted to do it” or they give you some philosophical quote about “seizing the day.” I chose to do it because I needed an adventure after high school, and I figured walking 2,000 miles would keep me entertained for a while. 66 >> summer 2011

On average a thru-hike takes five to six months. This means that you will be walking through at least two seasons. Most people who hike north choose to start sometime in March and plan to finish by September. People hiking south typically begin in June and aim to finish by December. Everything takes more time. Making a meal isn’t as simple as going to the kitchen. Sometimes you have to walk half a mile out of your way to get two cups of water. Even small towns seem huge when your only transportation is your feet. Weather has a bigger impact on your life when you’re outside for a week straight.

Photography by Calvin Lawrence

Calvin Lawrence takes in the scenery atop “Charlie’s Bunion” in Tennessee.

I remember thinking “this isn’t so hard. I’ll be in Maine by next week.” After a few weeks it really hit me that the trail was real and the average six-month completion time I’d heard about was real too.

Appalachian Thru-hiker Describe your typical day on the trail. I wake up at maybe eight or nine o’ clock—I was one of the later wakers—then eat a quick breakfast like a Pop-Tart or granola bar and start packing up. Then I’d start hiking. Somewhere in there I check my guidebook to see what kind of stuff I’ll be hitting that day and find out where I’m going to be. Then basically just walk, take a break if I feel like it, and just try to reach my goal for that day.

What kind of goal would that be? Just try to get to the next shelter, or the next town, wherever I’m trying to get to.

What do you carry with you? I carried everything I needed to live. Since weight is a big concern, my pack was whittled down to the basics: food, water, and things to keep me warm and dry. I also carried a few luxury items for entertainment, such as a novel and my MP3 player. I had my cell phone and a first aid kit for emergencies.

Did you ever have any emergencies? Nothing serious. I got a couple little burns, a couple little cuts and stuff. Never had to call for help or use anything beyond a simple Band-aid.

What were those injuries from? I was on a large smooth rock that was tilted about 30 degrees, and I tripped. I rolled about 25 feet and scraped my knee a bit. No big deal, I just put on a bandage and kept walking. The burns were of the typical campfire variety.

What’s the hardest part about hiking for so long? How did you deal with it? The hardest part is the mental game that you play to keep yourself going. Hiking every day for six months becomes

A quaint wooden sign orients hikers on Moxie Bald Mountain, Maine.

like a job. You have to constantly remind yourself that you are there by choice, and although you may not be enjoying it at the moment, it will get better. One of the sayings that I heard often was “your worst day on the trail is better than your best day at work.” I completely agree with that.

What kind of people did you meet? The trail is like a magnet for people at transitional stages in life. The two largest groups I saw were recent graduates and retirees. I met people from all across America, as well as from Europe and Australia. Some people were veteran hikers and some were out for the first time.

Did you have a lot of people at home following your progress? I did my best to call home every few weeks—and when I did, my mom always said everybody was asking about me. My family bought a large wall map of the trail so they could track my progress, and many of my friends were excited to read my updates on Facebook.

I know thru-hikers get “trail names” on their hikes. What’s yours and how did you get it? My trail name is “Torch.” It was given to me after I used a flaming stick to chase a family of mice out of a shelter.

How did you feel when you left the trail? When I was forced off the trail by weather, I felt like I had failed myself and everybody at home who had been following my progress. Within a few days, I came to terms with it, realizing that I was lucky to have accomplished as much as I had.

To finish, tell me one crazy story from your hike. Okay, I’ll tell you the donut story. One guy I was hiking with, he had been homeless for a while, so he had some experience living on the streets. We were in a town and there was a Dunkin’ Donuts, and we decided to check the Dumpster. We found a garbage bag full of donuts and decided to take it back to the hostel we were staying at. There was a group of probably 10 to 15 hikers. Hikers are notorious for eating huge amounts of food, especially junk food, so we decided to make it a challenge and see if we could work together to eat this 50-pound bag of donuts.

Was it really 50 pounds? I could barely lift it. We had to use a tricycle we found at the hostel to wheel it back to the hostel.

Did you guys finish your challenge? Nope, there were still donuts left three days later when we left. Everyone got sick of donuts after about the first hour. The forest thickens on this portion of the trail in the Hundred-Mile Wilderness, Maine.

—Millicent Lawrence www.stowawaymag.com << 67

Discover the World beneath the Waves

Several recommended festivals across the US:

Welcome

friends, Scuba Ted’s will take good care of you!

Become a safe, comfortable, confident Open Water Scuba Diver in just three weeks * All equipment provided * New classes start every week Call Scuba Ted’s today, or visit us online at www.scubateds.com

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Insider

Off The beaten path >> Forget the Big Ben snow globe—find a real souvenir in these UK antique shops. page 70 Tips & Tricks >> Learn how to haggle—even if you are shy—or discover free government services. pages 72–73

Gadgets & Gear >> Don’t let a travel camera let you down. page 74 Just The Ticket >> Travel for a two-step or CouchSurf your way to destinations around the world. pages 75–77

Photo by Tyler Young

ESCAPADES, ETC. >> Explore the world below the surface. page 78

Explore the natural wonders of the coral reefs teeming with life in American waters. page 78

Vintage Valuables Antiquing in the UK

As you round a corner, you spot the proprietors: two old women in flowered dresses and hand-knitted shawls watching a black-and-white television propped up on an old rocking horse. One of them takes another long pull on her cigar while the other smiles at you. “Looking for something, dearie?” You look at her and the chaos of goods around you and think, “I bet they don’t even know what’s in here.” Out loud you say, “Oh, no thank you. I’m just looking.” Just then, a young man comes in, looking harried and looking for a hare—a ceramic hare. “My girlfriend saw this little bunny in your window in the other day, and I wanted to buy it for her, but I noticed it’s not there anymore . . . Have you still got it?” The desperation is clear on his face. One woman crinkles her nose a little in thought and then toddles toward a low 70 >> summer 2011

cabinet, and reaching a wrinkled arm inside, pulls out a rabbit like a magician. His face lights up. “That’s it!” As he happily pulls out his wallet, you decide maybe you’ll ask if they have that chess set you’ve been looking for. There are many antique shops like this in the United Kingdom; almost every major town has one. Some resemble this hole-in-the-wall in Bath while others, like Jacob’s Antiques in Cardiff, are huge and filled with individual shops dealing with anything from World War II to Doctor Who. There are also upscale dealers—like Castle Antiques in Edinburgh or The Red House Antique Centre in York— that specialize in high-end goods. Different shops usually specialize in different types of goods: jewelry, furniture, toys, antique books, and on. Hay-on-Wye is a town famous for its bookstores that offer the avid bibliophile original prints and maps as well as first editions and other rare

finds. Depending on what you hope to find, there is a shop for you. Shop owners take pride in their goods and, if you explain to them what you are looking for, will do their best to find something to interest you. The best part about antiquing is taking the time to talk to people about the objects they sell. When Camilla and Hannah wandered into Castle Antiques in Edinburgh and saw the museumquality chandeliers and figurines, they quickly realized it was out of their price range. But instead of walking out, they talked with the proprietor, Harry Parry, an unassuming old gentleman in spectacles. He showed them his greatest treasures: a medicine chest from the 1700s, filled with the original bottles, and a magnificent marble Italian fireplace from 1830 that he said he would never sell. The store, he said, was just something to do. These treasures

Photo by Camilla Parshall

As you enter the antique shop, a wave of smoke wafts over you. Yellow light shows dimly through the artificial mist emitted by the cigar. Around you rise large stacks of books, piles of old coats, suitcases, lamps, old metal gadgets you’ve never seen before, and boxes of unknown treasures.

off the beaten path

For more information, visit—

π www.Antiques-Atlas.com π www.information-britain.co.uk π www.theantiquesdirectory.co.uk —Kara Kemp

Wacky Wo r

p o rt s

past can add to its value for you and make it a priceless memory. Check websites (such as those listed below) for online listings of antique shops and items for sale. Use their searchable databases to pull up stores by antique types or locations so you can plan ahead if you need to. However, spontaneity has the added benefit of unearthing surprises, so don’t rule it out. Being in an antique store is like being in a museum. But instead of just looking, you can try on the clothes and the jewelry, flip through the pages of the books, and run your fingers across the textured surfaces of furniture and embroidered fabrics. You can ask questions about the people who owned these items, hear the stories, and hold the history in your hands.

S ld

from the past were his true passion, and he delighted in showing them off. When you are hunting for antiques in the United Kingdom, there are some good tricks to get you going on your way and finding those off-the-beaten-path souvenirs. Information Centers are in most of the major towns. Don’t be afraid to ask. Their job is to point you in the right direction. Antiquing is a common hobby in the UK, and most places will have maps and lists of those locations. Look for something specific that is important to you. It’s best to go in with a plan to stay focused because there are sometimes literal mountains of things to go through. Even if there are, don’t let that scare you away. You might not have to spend hours sifting through the stacks to find what you want. Ask the owners of the shop. They usually know the general area of the thing you’re looking for, and if they don’t have it, they might know another shop that does. Antique dealers keep close tabs on the market so they can supply what the customer wants. Try to find out the history of what you are buying. Knowing an object’s

Man vs Horse It’s one thing to compete in a crosscountry marathon against humans, but racing against horses is another matter. In Llanwrtyd, Wales, human runners race 22 miles against horses to win a cash prize. Held annually since 1986, this race has been won by humans only twice, yet competitors keep coming back each year hoping to be the next winner.

π www.green-events.co.uk Think this is cool? Check out “Wacky World Sports” in Stowaway’s upcoming Fall 2011 issue. —Pieter Mueller

Flea Markets around the World Figuring out where to shop can be a big issue, regardless of where you are. When you are traveling around the world, you may find yourself asking, “Where can I get the best deals?” “Where do the locals shop?” “What specific advice do I need for flea markets?” Read on to learn more about flea markets that are sure to give you a bargain and let you practice your haggling skills. See “A Haggling How-To” (page 73) for help with haggling.

Silk Market Beijing, China Daily, 9 am to 9 pm This large market has seven levels of merchandise, including purses, shoes, clothing, electronics, jewelry, and traditional Chinese souvenirs. Each level sells different merchandise: One level is devoted solely to perfume and makeup, and another is devoted to shoes and bags. Take your time to carefully look over the merchandise, and make sure to be patient—you might find a vendor selling the

exact same item for a cheaper price. If you’re more interested in getting the best deals and don’t mind spending a little extra time, consider taking a few days to tackle this spacious market.

Camden Lock Market London, England Daily, 10 am to 6 pm Though originally a craft market, Camden Lock Market now features a variety of shops, restaurants, pubs, and theaters. Because of its open schedule, you’ll probably want to go to this market during the week to avoid the larger weekend crowds. Keep in mind, however, that not all of the vendors will be open during the week. Plan ahead of time for the specific shops you want to visit, and make sure they’re open when you go. If you’re more interested in the pubs, restaurants, and theaters, you won’t usually have to worry since they’re usually open until at least 11:00 PM every day.

Casabarata Flea Market Tangier, Morocco Saturdays to Thursdays, 9 am to 8 pm Located in the northernmost city of Morocco, this market is the hallmark of European and native Moroccan cultures. You can find copious goods from both of these civilizations, including tajine pots (clay cooking pots) and bric-à-bracs (ornaments). Because the quality of the merchandise varies, it is important to take your time. If you are patient, you can find rare treasures within this market, though it may take some digging.

π www.travelandleisure.com/articles/worldsgreatest-flea-markets

—Melissa Kotter To read the full version of this article and other online exclusives, head over to Stowaway’s website.

π www.camdenlock.net/camden.html www.stowawaymag.com << 71

tips & tricks

Quit Your Blushing

A Haggling How-To

For more helpful hints, see “Bartering Basics” in Stowaway’s Summer 2010 issue.

Plan ahead

Before you even name your price, really think about it. Solidify the price in your mind beforehand. Determine if you would be willing to stray from that price and by how much. The key is to not move from that price range. With that in mind, you’ll be more likely to get what you want, and you won’t back down. Don’t be afraid to walk away if you’re not happy with the price.

Be kind, but firm

No matter what country they live in, the merchants will know when you’re being rude, and they’ll be less likely to give you what you want if they think you’re being rude or shameful. “There’s a difference between being a smart shopper and a rude customer,” says Shelly Orr, of Wichita, Kansas, of her experience shopping in China. “Some people feel that when they’re stern it helps, but it doesn’t.” Being polite is important, but that doesn’t mean that you have to pay the original asking price. Just be kind when asking for a lower price. The bottom line: You can be a nice and respectful customer without letting the merchants walk all over you.

72 >> summer 2011

Buy only what you know you want

The merchants’ job is to get you to buy as much as possible. Don’t let them fool you into buying things you don’t actually need or want. They may try to guilt you into buying something, but stand firm. If you don’t want it or need it, say no. You have no obligation to the merchant, so you can always change your mind before you hand over the money. You have no reason to feel guilty if you decide you don’t want to buy something.

Get help

There’s nothing like the feeling of freezing on the spot when you get too nervous. To avoid this while shopping in flea markets, ask friends or locals for help. “The best part of shopping was when someone would come in and help me with my haggling.” Shelly says, “There was a sense of camaraderie. It really helped me feel more confident about my purchase.” Your friends or the locals can also help you realize when you’re getting ripped off.

Learn some words in the the language

If you’re trying to speak their language, some merchants may feel happy that you’re making an effort and may be less likely to rip you off. Don’t be embarrassed if you have an accent while speaking; they’ll appreciate that you’re trying. You may even learn a new phrase or two. “If you don’t know the language,” says Lisa, “at least learn the numbers. You can get a better deal if you name the price in their language.” —Melissa Kotter Check out Stowaway’s website for an online exclusive, “Flea Markets around the World.”

Illustration by Younhee Burningham

he hustle and bustle of flea markets can be exciting and overwhelming. There are people to your left and right arguing over prices, eager to get the best deal. Haggling isn’t that hard—even if you are shy. Lisa Ferguson of Cottonwood Heights, Utah, advises shoppers to remain strong in their price, no matter what. “Shopping in flea markets can be tiring but fun,” she says, “because you can get the price you want. You really need an iron-clad fist to do that, though.” If you can follow these tips—and be stubborn—a trip to the flea market won’t make your stomach turn with fear. Instead you’ll find yourself on a haggling high, undercutting initial prices, getting great deals, and feeling amazing about it.

What to Know before You Go Free Government Help for Travelers

ore and more American citizens are choosing to travel and live abroad. Whether you are looking to get away for a short weekend in Mexico or planning on living overseas for an extended period of time, the U.S. government offers a variety of services that can help you plan a great experience.

Passports: Whether you’re getting a passport for the first time, renewing it, updating information, or replacing a lost or stolen passport, the State Department is the place to go.

Travel Warnings: While it may seem

Photo by Kara Kemp

obvious to keep away from current war zones because of possible dangers, you might be surprised about other places that pose physical threats to travelers. Be sure to check in advance whether a country is considered dangerous for travel.

Smart Travelers Program: Before you leave, take a few minutes to sign up for this service so you can be contacted in case of an emergency.

Country-Specific Information: Use this wealth of information about things such as a description of the country, embassy locations, and local travel laws.

Life Changes Abroad: Learn how to deal with marriages, births, divorce, and deaths while out of the United States. Voting: Just because you are out of the country doesn’t mean your voice can’t be heard. If you’re out of the country during elections, you can still vote.

Citizen Exchanges: There are a variety of programs that allow citizens of different countries to participate in exchange programs. In these programs, you get to spend time living in another country. Check these programs out to

see how they could allow you to travel outside the United States.

Academic Exchange Programs: If you’re still a student, take advantage of the numerous services the State Department offers specifically for students. These services range from scholarships for travel to grants for learning a new language in a country where it is spoken.

Arrests: Know what the local embassy will and won’t do for you if you run into legal troubles while traveling.

International Health Information: Find out what vaccinations you need before you travel, how to get medical help abroad, or what health hazards you might encounter. For more information, visit— π exchanges.state.gov π fvap.gov π travel.state.gov

—Pieter Mueller

Experience China You can change the lives of children in China by giving them the valuable gift of the English language.

www.ilp.org International Language Programs 801.374.8854

gadgets & gear

Picture This travel cameras Choosing the right travel camera can be difficult, especially on a budget. When the trip is over, your pictures are some of the best souvenirs you’ll have. But while you’re looking for the best camera, you shouldn’t have to take out a loan to suit your style. Are you taking your camera for a night on the town, an afternoon on the river, or a rock-climbing excursion? No matter what your style, find the camera that’s right for you. to c ou

rt e s

y of Pen ta x

Ima

ging

Fashion Statement

Rough n’ Ready

Speed Demon

Practical Traveler Pentax Optio W90

• compact, 12.1 megapixels • underwater depth up to 19.7 feet

Durable for your most active vacations, and waterproof for the rainy season, this rugged compact fits easily in the hand and in the pocket. While the w90 is no longer being shipped from the company, it is available online. The newer WG-1 is also available for purchase from Pentax.

Canon EOS Rebel XS with 18-55mm lens Canon PowerShot SD1300 IS

• ultracompact, 12.1 megapixels • rechargeable battery

A wonderful option for any practical traveler. Its user-friendly features and rounded edges make it a comfortable companion at home or abroad.

$96

$210

Check out Stowaway’s website for an online exclusive, “What to Know Before You Buy a Travel Camera.”

74 >> summer 2011

Inner Artist

Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W350 Nikon Coolpix s3000

• ultracompact, 12 megapixels • comes in a variety of colors including silver, purple, green, red, black, blue, and orange.

For those with a sense of flair who are looking for either a little coordination in their accessories or just a great camera for less. The sleek design and the excellent image quality make it perfect for a day of sightseeing or a night on the town.

$84

• ultracompact, 14.1 megapixels • 1/1600 sec to 2 sec shutter speed

For those who just can’t wait for that perfect picture. This camera is a steal for its image quality and its speed. Don’t get a blurry picture when you really want an action shot. It’s also capable of wide-angles so you can get the whole sweeping vista outside your hotel.

• SLR, 10.1 megapixels • 15.9 oz

An artistic look without the expense. This camera offers all the style at a fraction of the cost. The bonus of looking like a professional instead of a tourist comes free.

$434

$111

—Kara Kemp

Photography by Kara Kemp, except as noted

pho

just the ticket

� It Takes

or a new twist on traveling, take your dancing skills on vacation. Dance tourism is a fun and heart-pounding category of cultural tourism. Dance traditions are found in every culture, and the options for dance tourism are just as varied. Whether through a dance vacation, festival, or performance, you can experience a culture or just have fun through dancing. Many large tourism companies offer vacation packages that include dance lessons and guided tours of the city you are visiting so you can spend less time planning and more time on the dance floor. Or you can schedule a dance festival or performance into a vacation you’re planning yourself. Any way you do it, you’ll have more than just photos and a T-shirt to show friends when you get home.

Photo by Alexander Zabara/tangoimage

Vacations Vacation packages with planned itineraries and professional guides are an easy way to vacation and learn how to dance. Companies like Dance Fun and Bryant Cruises offer dance cruises that provide dance lessons, dance parties, and trips to exotic places for one price. Other companies sell tour packages that include everything from a hotel and meals to dance lessons and tours, excluding only airfare. Egypt Excursions offers an Egyptian vacation and a belly dance tour package (about $1288) for women. Becka Tango Tours offers a similar package (up to $2800) for dancers and groups of all ages looking to learn and dance the tango. Becka Minas personally takes her clients to Buenos Aires, the home of tango, for these vacations. “I came up with this because of my love for tango,” she says. “It’s a beautiful way to connect with people . . . and people enjoy it.” Becka encourages people to take some basic classes before going on one of her vacations because, in her words, “if you don’t know the steps you don’t have as good a time.”

Festivals Dance festivals come in a plethora of forms, places, and prices, so you can easily find one to fit your vacation itinerary and budget. The Salsa Mambo Festival held at Doral Princess

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Resort in Palm Springs, California, requires tickets ($115) but offers dance workshops for all levels with professional dance instructors, dance shows, and dance parties. This festival occurs twice a year: the last weekend of July and New Year’s Eve. A free festival (tickets still required) that focuses more on teaching the public about dance rather than how to dance is London’s Dance Umbrella dance festival every October. This year’s dates are the 8th and 9th. Dance Umbrella features performances of new dance. To find out about other dance festivals, do an online search or contact the visitor center of the town you’re visiting for information on local festivals.

Performances If being the dancer doesn’t appeal to you, you can still appreciate the art through dance performances. Like festivals, these are also easy to find online or through tourism sources. The visitor’s guide for the city you are visiting will list notable local performances, and many large cities are home to national dance companies that perform regularly. For example, the Moscow City Ballet and Russian National Ballet Theater will be spending the summer 2011 season in Moscow. Dance companies also go on tour to other cities, so be sure to check the city you’re vacationing in for upcoming performances. This summer, Riverdance, a dance company performing that very style, will be touring the United States and Canada. Dance performances are an easy way to add culture to your vacation, whether you travel outside the country or within it. For more information, visit—

π www.riverdance.com/tours π www.dancefun.com π www.egyptexcursions.net π www.beckatangotours.com π www.chanceumbrella.co/uk/pg1/Home π www.salsamambofestival.com

—Millicent Lawrence

www.stowawaymag.com << 75

Meet the World, One at a Time

Couch

Last August, Chris Gearheart jetted off to Minneapolis on a business trip—his first official business trip for his first official job since graduating from college. That weekend, Chris could have put himself up in a nice hotel and enjoyed a relaxing stay with fresh linen, television watching, and continental breakfasts—all “on the tab.” But he didn’t put himself up in a nice hotel. He chose to CouchSurf instead.

n other words, he stayed the night— twice—at the home of perfect strangers, and all because they had listed profiles online that stated they had an extra bed or sofa to offer wandering travelers for free. You might be drawn to the liberating simplicity of this idea and wish you’d heard about CouchSurfing long ago. But more likely you’re a little unnerved by the idea, and you’re not alone. We’ve all been on a bus before, after all—even the friendliest people pass by the seat next to a stranger if there are other open seats. If it’s awkward to challenge the status quo on a 10-minute bus ride, it’s downright frightening to throw it aside by sleeping in the living room of a stranger. Not to mention, the practice introduces obvious risks to personal safety. But if you can manage to set aside the status quo and consider the safeguards with an open mind, CouchSurfing might startle you not for 76 >> summer 2011

its brazen audacity, but for its generous and incredibly enabling ideals.

Why CouchSurf? The founders of CouchSurfing.org (CS) are devoted to facilitating authentic travel and cross-cultural interaction. In their own words, they hope to transform the world into a place “where everyone can explore and create meaningful connections with the people and places they encounter.” While not all members of CS would explain their motivations for CouchSurfing in those exact terms, many of their reasons echo this vision. When I asked Chris why he chose to forgo the fancy hotel stay, he said, “CouchSurfing looked more fun than staying in a hotel by myself. . . . People willing to open their homes to strangers like that are usually pretty interesting folks.” Toby, Chris’s first host and a sustainable agriculture buff, had a wood-fired clay oven in his backyard, which the two used to bake homemade

pizza while they discussed their interests and occupations. Chris said of Toby, “He was great conversation. He’d gotten four or five different degrees, and he was just really fun and really generous with his food.” The second night, Chris stayed with host Andrew at a house that seemed tailor made for CouchSurfing: it had seven extra beds. Another CS member who simply enjoys meeting new people is adventurer Erin Carlson. A more practiced CouchSurfer, Erin has traveled all over the world. Yet her favorite CouchSurfing memory is still her first experience, when she was stuck in DC for a 20-hour layover and her host took her under his wing and showed her the sites. Chris’s and Erin’s interactions with their hosts didn’t eradicate world hunger or dissolve civil unrest. But in a very real way, their experiences helped the world become a better place because they eagerly connected with others

instead of hanging back out of habit. Chris in particular appreciated how CouchSurfing allowed him to venture out of his “own little middle-class universe” and share his identity openly.

Couch illustrations by hannah hillam; people illustrations courtesy of dreamstime

Hosting CouchSurfers Sharing your home openly is a natural extension of sharing your identity in the CS universe. Although no one is required to host before being hosted, the founders do express the hope that everyone who’s been hosted will one day return the favor—“kind of like paying it forward,” Erin told me. Hosting can be as eye-opening as traveling. Nichole Manco-Chism and her husband brought the world into their home through hosting. They met travelers from Argentina, Moldova, the Czech Republic, Peru, and many other countries. Nichole said all their visitors were “extremely respectful of our house, our things, and our time.” While Nichole and Erin both swear by hosting, others who aren’t ready or able to provide lodging can still “host” by playing tour guide or meeting travelers for lunch. In fact, the willing tour guide is an invaluable gift to CouchSurfers. Tour guide hosts enable travelers to forge connections with people and places simultaneously. Instead of catching a brief glimpse of the world through the lenses of their own cultural biases, lucky CouchSurfers have the

opportunity to understand quickly and deeply what a place means to its own people.

Safety While Surfing Not all CS experiences are perfect. Even Chris, who was genuinely excited about meeting his hosts, craved solitude at times. Other, more negative experiences have included loud music, lack of communication, or inconsiderate behavior. In rare cases, CouchSurfers have even been the victims of crime amounting to physical assault. The risk of encountering dangerous people and situations is always present, so it is important to consider this risk seriously when deciding whether CouchSurfing is for you. To better understand exactly where your comfort zone lies, it may be helpful to explore the important safety net available through the Couch-Surfing website. CouchSurfing.org functions much like other social networking sites. But one vital difference is that each CS profile includes a “references” section, where travelers and hosts alike can leave positive, negative, or neutral reviews of their CS counterparts. On each profile, the number of references in each category is permanently visible, along with comments that correspond to each reference. Like the customer feedback feature on Amazon.com and other commercial vending sites, the references section helps CouchSurfers

CouchSurfers have the opportunity to understand quickly and deeply what a place means to its own people. make wise choices about who they interact with. Although simple, the process is incredibly reliable because everyone on CouchSurfing, whether hosting or traveling, has their own safety at stake. And since safety is usually more important to people than timely shipping options, their reviews on CouchSurfing.org are even more likely to be honest and helpful. However, the overwhelming majority of CS experiences are positive; browse the website for a mere half hour and you’ll see that, for the most part, the ratio of positive to negative experiences is incredibly high. Perhaps after reading this article, you feel ready to jump in with both feet—find the site, fill out your profile, and start looking for couches. But if you still have qualms, by all means trust your own intuition and choose only those travel locations and activities that will make you feel safe and comfortable. Even if you never CouchSurf, though, perhaps you can still cherish what CS exists to accomplish—authentic travel, a generous spirit, and “a better world, one couch at a time.” —Maddie Nordgren

Check out Stowaway’s website for an online exclusive, “More Safety While Surfing.”

www.stowawaymag.com << 77

escapades, etc.

Browning Pass Location: Waters of British Columbia off the north end of Vancouver Island Famous for: Gigantic starfish (as big as beach balls), largest known octopus—called the Giant Pacific Octopus, which can grow to a 12-foot span! Sea life: Wolf eels, humpback whales, sea lions, white-sided dolphins, orcas, sea otters, starfish, and octopuses Best time to visit: April–October

Catalina Island Location: Accessible by ferry from San Diego, California Famous for: Kelp beds that house a large variety of sea creatures

Sea life: Sea anemones, sea cucumbers, mysid shrimps, octopuses, sea lions, large spiny lobsters, and friendly sharks Best time to visit: September–December

Kona Location: “Big Island” of Hawaii Famous for: Manta ray night dive—divers sit on the ocean floor and hold flashlights to attract manta rays, who feed on the plankton gathering in the light; as many as 15 to 25 large manta rays come in to feed by doing back-flips in the light Sea Life: Spinner dolphins, silky sharks, tiger sharks, hammerheads, humpback whales, and sperm whales Best time to visit: November–May

Akumal Location: Yucatan peninsula in Mexico

Famous for: Cenotes, or underwater sea

caves (Mayans believed these to be sacred); copious stalactites and stalagmites Sea life: Some fish and crustaceans, but the focus is on the cave formations Best time to visit: March–April

Cocos Island Location: About 300 miles off the coast of Costa Rica, accessible by live-aboard dive boats Famous for: Prodigious schools of scalloped hammer head sharks numbering up to 100; nicknamed Isla de los Tiburones (Island of the Sharks) Sea life: hammerheads, white-tip reef sharks, whale sharks, sword fish, large sea turtles, tuna, manta rays, moray eels, and dolphins Best time to visit: May–October

78 >> summer 2011

Did you know that the most foreign and undiscovered environment on earth is found below the water’s surface? Approximately 71 percent of the earth is covered by ocean, and over 230,000 different types of marine life-forms occupy that space. The American continents have a huge variety of sea life worth exploring and discovering through scuba diving. From cold-water diving in the north to the warmwater islands of Central America—no matter where your vacation takes you, there is a world to discover underwater. So go DIVE AMERICA! —Shanna Warr

Cape Hatteras Location: Part of barrier islands and easternmost point of North Carolina Famous for: Historical sites, shipwrecks of ironclad warships scattered across its ocean floor, the most popular being the USS Monitor Sea life: Nurse sharks, tiger sharks, oceanic white-tip sharks, bull sharks, and turtles Best time to visit: May–October

For more information, visit—

π www.scubadiving.com π www.scuba.about.com π www.dive.com

Key Largo Location: The northernmost island of the Florida Keys Famous for: Several sunken shipwrecks, myriads of sea life, and artificial reefs housed in these ships Sea life: Goliath groupers, Atlantic spadefish Best time to visit: May–August

Belize Location: Central America (houses the second-largest barrier reef in the world) Famous for: “Blue Hole,” a sinkhole just off the coast of Belize Sea life: Snappers, groupers, whale sharks, turtles, tarpon, and manta rays Best time to visit: March–June

Photography by Tyler Young, Brenton King, Barun Patro/Sxc.hu, Marcel Ekkel/Flickr, Mark Lightfoot/www.flickr.com/people/frigate356/

www.stowawaymag.com << 79

staff essay

or literally my entire life my dad has been sick. He was diagnosed with type 1 diabetes when I was an infant and we were always aware of his condition. Growing up we watched him take his insulin shots and visited him in the hospital when he got the flu. Once he and my siblings got in a car accident because his blood sugar was low. But we dealt with it. Then it all culminated with kidney disease. I was 12 when my father began dialysis treatments and slammed the brakes on our dream vacation. We had been planning a family vacation to Florida. We were going to stay in a hotel suite, introduce ourselves to ocean saltwater, and watch a satellite launch. But now Dad was too sick and required many medical supplies. Our excitement fell like the crest of a wave on that beach we’d never see and washed out to sea like the sand we’d never walk on. Needless to say, we were disappointed. Three years later I watched my dad throw himself into a wall of waves and ride them with a vitality I had never seen in him before. My siblings splashed through the water and my mother and youngest sister clung to each other,

screaming and laughing as the waves tugged at them. No, we hadn’t made it to Florida—I still have yet to touch a Florida beach. But my family had made it, my dad had made it. His health floated on the back of daily dialysis treatments for a year before he underwent a kidney and pancreas transplant. He recovered from the surgery but then contracted pneumonia because of the immunosuppressants he was on and experienced a period of vision loss. Through it all, my mother nursed him and ran the household, wondering how long my father’s employers would guarantee his job. My siblings and I spent the first week of school that year with our grandmother because Mom and Dad were at the hospital in Chicago. It was in Chicago where we took our first family vacation after my dad regained—or rather, surpassed—his former health. We did the usual sightseeing and shopping, but we also visited Northwestern Memorial Hospital, where my dad’s life had been saved. If my family were more sentimental it could have been a

pilgrimage; mostly we were intrigued by having breakfast at the expansive hospital cafeteria. But the highlight of our trip was a stop at Indiana Dunes State Park on Lake Michigan. Turns out we had to drive only three hours from home to find a beach with waves. I think it’s the only time I have seen my entire family give themselves over to unabashed fun. It’s still the quintessential moment of family unity and joy in my life. We were healthy and alive, and all of our worries had washed out to sea. Since then, my father has developed other health problems and undergone treatments, such as triple bypass surgery in August 2010. But I can’t forget the image of him diving through waves just one year after his organ transplant. We made it that time, and as we approach the one-year anniversary of his heart surgery and the nine-year anniversary of his transplant, we’re still making it and still making memories. We probably won’t be at the beach this summer, but my father is healthy again and we’ll be together—the makings for a great family vacation. —Millicent Lawrence

Named for the sand dunes along its Lake Michigan coast, Indiana Dunes State Park is my favorite family vacation spot.

80 >> summer 2011

Photo by Millicent Lawrence

We Made It! F

Parting Shot Photo by Callie Manion

A breathtaking view from an outlook in Lisbon, Portugal, that allows visitors to get a glimpse of life in the Alfama District, the oldest district in the city.

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