Stowaway Winter 2014 by Brigham Young University Editing Students

Winter 2014

Sochi 2014 A window to world culture, p. 30

Also in this issue

Turning the Bones, p. 42 Catching the Korean Wave, p. 60 Dim Sum: Get Some!, p. 64

Orphanage Project:

Supervised • Safe • Organized LDS Standards

www.orphanagesupport.org

Service + Adventure

International Service Experience

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 3

info@orphanagesupport.org

On the cover: Kim Yu-na, the 2013 world champion, will compete in the Sochi Olympics.

Photo by Diego Barbieri

102 104 106

Happenings: The Bard Abroad Escapades: McWhat?—Lovin’ It around the World Staff Essay: Crossing the Cultural Chasm in the Andes Parting Shot

4 ▶ winter 2014

14 16 20

San Francisco’s Iconic Street Performers Hidden Treasures in Yale’s Vaults: Rare Books and Where to Find Them Deep in the Heart of Dallas Literary New England: A Stroll around the Writers’ Block

Features

Editor’s Note: The View from the Top

Getaways

42 46

Festival of Colors: Redefining Holi in Spanish Fork, Utah Sochi 2014: A Window to World Culture Reclaiming New Orleans: From Rubble to Art Turning the Bones: Malagasy Rituals to Honor the Dead Remaining in Romania: One Intern’s Struggle with Culture Shock

Culture

Photo by KP Tripathi

62 64 66 68

Rising Star in Theater: Washington, DC

Catching the Korean Wave Dancers at Sea: Backstage with Cruise Performers Dim Sum: Get Some! Get the Inside Scoop on Savory Ice Cream Flavors: Salt & Straw Avocado: Four Corners of the Kitchen

Field Notes

82 86 88

Landes Holbrook: Travel Advice from a Security Expert Beneath the City of Light: Exploring Paris’s Catacombs Creating Enterprise, Creating Hope

94 95

Gaining Global Perspective through Nursing The Appian Way: Journey through Italy’s Heel Tales from the Trip Photo Contest Winners

Insider

98 100

Road-Trip Rescue Apt to Travel with Airbnb SCUBA: Take the Plunge! Art Journaling: Tips and Tricks Seuss on the Loose: Find the Last Truffula Tree in La Jolla

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 5

Rachel Peters

Alex Simmons

Kate Sullivan

Lauren Dyas

Caitlin Metzger

Managing Editor

Assistant Managing Editor

Copyeditor

Hillary Olsen

Alicia Shumway

Alannah Autrey

Kayla Swan

Debbie Adams

Senior Editor

Associate Editor

Art Director

Assistant Art Director

Web Team

Debbie Adams Alannah Autrey Catherine Billings* Hillary Olsen Social Media Team AmberLee Hansen

Tierre Sanford

Catherine Billings

Bryce Peterson

Assistant Art Director

Senior Designer

Alicia Shumway* Lauren Dyas Kate Sullivan Caitlin Metzger Tierre Sanford Bryce Peterson* Alex Simmons AmberLee Hansen *Team Leader

Marvin K. Gardner

Julie Ogborn

Amy Carlin

Eugene Tapahe

Editor in Chief

Editorial Advisor

Advertising Advisor

Web Advisor

6 ▶ summer 2012

Stowaway is produced as a project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, designing, and advertising. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and do not represent the views or opinions of BYU. Stowaway takes inspiration from the words of Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Photography by Devin Anderton

Photo Credit: See style guide to review credit wording before writing this.

Advertising Team

editor’s note

The View from the Top A couple of years ago, my roommates and I hopped in the car and drove from Provo, Utah, to Zion National Park for Labor Day weekend. On a shuttle from the parking lot to the trailhead, I heard this announcement over the loudspeaker: “Angels Landing is an extremely treacherous hike. Those who are accompanied by younger children or have a fear of heights should strongly reconsider.” My knees knocked together—we were hiking Angels Landing, and I really don’t like heights. After a good hour or so of hiking, we reached a plateau that looked out over the canyons. While the trail had been steep and winding, I was impressed with myself that I hadn’t been too nervous. I took a deep breath and announced, “Wow, this is so pretty!” My roommate Krissa just laughed and said, “Yeah, just wait until we get to the top!” Terror washed over me again. Beyond where we stood, there was

a very narrow spine of a mountain. “That’s the trail?” I asked. Krissa laughed again; then she and my other roommates bounded up the trail. The remaining portion of the mountain was truly just a spine: nearly every inch of the trail was lined with industrial-strength chains, which I clung to for dear life at the sight of the alternative—a thousandfoot drop. Following Krissa’s careful footsteps, I inched my way up the mountain, my heart racing until the very moment we reached the vista. At the top of Angels Landing, I looked out across the canyons and could hardly believe my eyes. While I had been impressed by the view from the earlier plateau, it was no comparison to what I now saw. As I’ve worked with the Stowaway staff to create this Winter 2014 issue, I’ve often felt as if we were climbing up a steep trail, clinging to chains of communication and support for the strength to continue. As a staff, we have rallied our strength to provide that support to one another through job interviews, pregnancy, jury duty,

marriage engagements, and our everchanging plans for becoming real adults. While the view from the top is absolutely worth the climb, our journey here is nothing to be ignored. I hope you feel part of our Stowaway community. Although we approach the world through the lens of travel and adventure, our true focus is learning from the people we encounter—whether in a faraway land or in our own backyards. From coming out of your shell in Dallas (see “Deep in the Heart of Dallas,” p. 16), to honoring ancestors in Madagascar (see “Turning the Bones,” p. 42), to discovering exotic menu items at McDonald’s around the world (see “McWhat? Lovin’ It around the World,” p. 102), we offer you a chance to explore life from someone else’s perspective. As you read this issue, we also invite you to share your perspective with us—whether in an online comment, through a photo or travel story submission, or via social media. Please let us know how you see the world, dear reader. We’re excited to see what you see.

Photo by Michael Turk

Rachel Peters Managing Editor

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 7

The Bard Abroad Shakespearean Globe-trotting

The works of William Shakespeare, the master storyteller, are popular in many languages and countries. Whether the play is in English or in German, whether it is shown under the open summer sky of an amphitheater or within an indoor arena, no theater-goer’s experience is complete without seeing a work of William Shakespeare performed live on a stage. Take a look at a few of the many promising options that are shaking up the world of live theater around the globe. —Bryce Peterson

Established in 1935, the Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF) is the largest and one of the oldest Shakespeare festivals in the United States. The OSF season usually runs from February to November, which is the longest season of any Shakespeare festival, and typically includes 11 productions. Like most festivals, OSF often includes contemporary plays, non-Shakespearean classics, and even musicals. ▶▶

osfashland.org

The Stratford Festival is probably the most well-known and largest classical repertory theater in North America. Equipped with four theaters ranging in size from 260 seats to 1,826, Stratford Festival puts on about twice as many plays as most other festivals—12 every season (from May through October). There are also many activities hosted by the festival to keep you occupied between performances, such as classes, for various ages and experience levels, on Shakespearean texts and on performance. ▶▶

stratfordfestival.ca

Photo by flickr user Kit

Ashland, Oregon, United States

Stratford, Ontario, Canada

happenings

Kronborg Castle, Elsinore, Denmark

When writing Hamlet, Shakespeare transformed Danish folklore into Renaissance-era tragedy after becoming vicariously acquainted with Kronborg Castle in Denmark in 1586. In other words, the setting of Hamlet was inspired by Kronborg Castle. With a long-standing tradition since 1816, The Shakespeare Festival at Hamlet’s Castle has drawn some of the biggest names in Shakespeare from the last century, such as Kenneth Branagh, Laurence Olivier, and Richard Burton. It continues to draw international audiences, producing most plays in English and some in Scandinavian languages. ▶▶

Stratford-uponAvon and London, England Neuss, Germany

Near the west bank of the Rhine River in central Germany, the ancient city of Neuss houses the Shakespeare Festival in the Neuss Globe. This theater is a reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe, a popular style for many theaters at Shakespeare festivals. The Neuss festival houses many theater companies traveling from all over the world, and the plays are performed in English, German, and a myriad of other languages. Since the season at the Neuss Globe is relatively short (from June to July), plan carefully and book tickets early so you won’t miss out. ▶▶

shakespeare-festival.de/en

www.hamletscenen.dk/uk/

Merbau Road, Singapore

▶▶

www.rsc.org.uk

Nestled in the Asian islands between Malaysia and Australia is the citystate Singapore, which houses the highly reputable Singapore Repertory Theatre (SRT). English is the first official language in this former British colony; as a result, the majority of SRT’s productions are performed in English. Singapore Repertory Theatre has produced high-quality Shakespearean shows for the past two decades, and prolific actors such as Kevin Spacey, Sir Ian McKellen, Ethan Hawke, and Sir Trevor Nunn have performed on SRT’s stage. They host a Shakespeare in the Park series every summer, and their regular season throughout the year boasts original works and triedand-true classics. Not bad for what some might call a “remote” part of the world.

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shakespearesglobe.com

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A great way to make Shakespearean theater feel authentic is to see it at its genesis, its epicenter: good ol’ Bill’s hometown of Stratford-uponAvon in England. Here, the Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) houses many productions, from Elizabethan style to the totally modern, in three theaters. A second well-known Shakespearean theater, Shakespeare’s Globe, is a separate theater company located 100 miles away on the River Thames in London. Along with producing Elizabethan-style productions, Shakespeare’s Globe in London also houses international touring productions of Shakespeare in a program cleverly named Globe to Globe.

www.srt.com.sg

Getaways Photo by Micah Dew

Dallas offers entertainment with a twist of southern hospitality.

San Francisco’s Iconic Street Performers

Hidden Treasures in Yale’s Vaults: Rare Books and Where to Find Them

Deep in the Heart of Dallas

Literary New England: A Stroll around the Writers’ Block

Take a tour of San Francisco using three of the city’s iconic street performers as your guides.

Visit Yale University’s Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library to see the Gutenberg Bible, Abraham Lincoln’s gold pen, and so much more.

Discover big hearts, big appetites, and big skies in Dallas, Texas.

On your trip to New England, visit Mark Twain’s home, Thoreau’s Walden Pond, and other literary sites.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 11

San Francisco’s Iconic

Street Performers

San Francisco is known for landmarks like the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz Island. But did you know that it is also home to moving landmarks? Street performers, known as “buskers,” are scattered all over the city and have been entertaining natives and tourists alike for years.

Norbert Yancey, “The Rhyme Guy”

“Get some change from yo mama. If you don’t I’ll tell Obama. I go to da’ Bahamas and buy me some pajamas!” Norbert Yancey has been singing to and making rhymes about passersby for more than 40 years. His latest perch is by the stairs at Ghirardelli Square. Sporting a black fedora, blue button-up sweater, and signature hearty laugh, Yancey croons about anything and everything. He always has a rhyme up his sleeve, even for foreign tourists, as he also speaks many languages. Propped next to him are an open guitar case and easels displaying posters of him posing with various celebrities. If you find the Rhyme Guy, get ready to be amazed— and be sure to also get a hot fudge sundae while you’re at the Square.

12 ▶ winter 2014

Gabriel Angelo, “The SF Trumpet Kid” One of the newer additions to the busking group is young Gabriel Angelo, an old soul in a 14-yearold’s body. Angelo has been playing the trumpet since he was 6, and he sounds like a seasoned professional. To earn money for music lessons, he started performing downtown near Mission and Fifth Street. And boy, can he play. But that’s not all. He tapdances too—while playing the trumpet. He’s always dressed for the part with a newsy cap, collared shirt, tie, slacks, and, of course, his tap shoes. If you like the oldies and dancing, or if you are already downtown for a Giants game, find Angelo at his usual spot doing what he does best.

David Johnson, “The Bushman”

Picture this: you’ve just enjoyed some clam chowder in a fresh Boudin bread bowl, and now you’re ready to walk Fisherman’s Wharf. When you pass by what appears to be a harmless (yet randomly placed) bush, all of a sudden it starts barking at you and shaking its branches. After you scream unapologetically, you realize there is a mass of tourists across the street who have

Photo by Parthiv Haldipu

For Bay Area resident Sara Michael, “they’re local legends.” She says, “Honestly, a huge reason I take visiting friends on tours is wanting them to see these guys. They’re just a part of the city, and I haven’t really seen street performers like that anywhere else.” The street performing scene of San Francisco is constantly evolving, but here are three current staples that will enhance your typical city tour.

getaways

Clockwise from left: photography by Neil Davidson, Ryan M. Swift, Yun Huang Yong

been watching you the entire time. The Bushman has gotten you! Though potentially embarrassing, getting caught by the Bushman is actually quite a privilege. David Johnson has been scaring his way into people’s hearts for nearly 25 years. He is usually found on Fisherman’s Wharf, but he changes his hiding spot often. So keep your eyes peeled and

try not to get too distracted by the sea lions on the pier or scream too loudly when the Bushman gets you. Because he will get you. “I have respect for San Francisco street performers,” Sara Michael says. “These guys are really rendering an entertaining service that enriches your city experience.” In a city that is constantly changing, it’s nice to

know that you can usually count on seeing at least one of these special buskers when you visit. In fact, take a whole weekend and see if you can find them all. ▶▶

sfist.com/2013/03/20/san_franciscos_best_buskers.php

—Kate Sullivan

Previous page: Fisherman’s Wharf is home base for San Francisco’s fishing fleet, many delicious seafood restaurants, and many street performers. Above: Multi-lingual crooner Norbert Yancey can make up songs on the spot or draw from his lengthy repertoire to entertain passersby. Top right: Trumpet player Gabriel Angelo says watching Fred Astaire was what inspired him to add dancing to his act. Bottom right: Though some Fisherman’s Wharf merchants have tried to have David Johnson removed, most tourists can’t get enough of the Bushman.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 13

Hidden Treasures in Yale’s Vaults

Rare Books and Where to Find Them Traditionally, you go to a library to find books. On the campus of Yale University in New Haven, Connecticut, however, there is a whole lot more to the library than approximately 600,000 volumes and several million original manuscripts. Your trip to Yale University’s Beinecke Rare Book and Manuscript Library will include significant artifacts and many other treasures. Michael Cummings, Public Relations Manager at the Beinecke, admits that he has his favorites among these treasures. “The library boasts a collection of correspondence and writing by and about Abraham Lincoln,” Cummings explains. “It includes a gold pen that President Lincoln used to sign the Emancipation Proclamation. It’s a small artifact that carries enormous historical significance. Think about it: that pen played an important role in defining our history.

Yale’s Jewelry Box The Beinecke opened in 1963 and celebrated its fiftieth birthday last

14 ▶ winter 2014

year. Located at the center of Yale’s campus, this impressively rich collection needed impressive architecture to match—and the Beinecke does not disappoint. The bulk of the documents belonging to the library are enclosed in a six-story glass vault. The shape of the vault, as well as the treasures within it, may be the reason the Beinecke is often referred to as a jewelry box. In addition to Lincoln’s gold pen, you can find many other items, such as Walt Whitman’s journals; Audobon’s Birds of America; samples of Thomas Jefferson’s unique, stylistic handwriting; 48 original copies of the Gutenberg Bible; and famous, ancient papyri.

Protecting Priceless Treasures

Extensive procedures are in place to preserve these precious items. For example, very limited access is granted to guests to actually handle the texts themselves in the underground reading room. Additionally, each text is treated to a three-day cooling process that enables the books to outlive bookworms. In the event of a fire, flame-suppressant gases will automatically protect the manuscripts within the glass structure. Cummings explains that “the building’s distinctive marble panels filter the sunlight to limit the amount of light that the materials are

getaways

exposed to.” Such attention to caring for and preserving the vault’s contents shows just how treasured these items truly are. “One of the joys of working here is that you discover something new and fascinating every day,” Cummings says. The vast collections of the Beinecke can transport you from urban Connecticut to many places and times in history, helping you discover new and fascinating things with every visit.

Discovering Other Gems in New Haven Yale University Art Gallery: As the oldest university art gallery in the United

States, founded in 1832, the Yale University Art Gallery has had plenty of time to acquire everything from African sculpture to early Italian paintings. ▶▶

artgallery.yale.edu

Yale Center for British Art: Boasting “the largest and most comprehensive collection of British art outside the United Kingdom,” the Yale Center for British Art is another on-campus must-see. ▶▶

britishart.yale.edu/collections

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beinecke.library.yale.edu/ collections/highlights

Grove Street Cemetery: During the summer, the Grove Street Cemetery offers

▶▶

beinecke.library.yale.edu/visit/ planning-your-research-visit.

and Noah Webster.

—Tierre Sanford

free guided tours. Among those buried here are Eli Whitney, Lyman Beecher,

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grovestreetcemetery.org

New Haven’s Long Wharf Theatre: Currently showing The Consultant and

4000 Miles, New Haven’s Long Wharf Theatre has earned a Tony Award and a

Pulitzer Prize.

Photography courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and flickr user simonk

▶▶

longwharf.org

Top left: The Beinecke is one of the largest rare book libraries in the world. Clockwise from top right: The collection hosts countless rare treasures, including Audobon’s Birds of America, one of 48 existing copies of the Gutenberg Bible, and Abraham Lincoln’s gold pen.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 15

Deep in the Heart of Dallas The man who walked over to our table was tall. He bent forward, hovering over my newly delivered Texan steak. “I’m putting $20 in the band’s tip jar to see you do the chicken dance.” I was left staring dumbfounded as he walked over to the stage, put in the $20, and made his request to the country band—all before I could utter a response. When the band began playing the music, I stood nervously. A painfully introverted native of Seattle, I knew I was about to make a fool of myself. It didn’t take long, however, before half of the restaurant guests had joined me on the dance floor in their plaid shirts, leather boots, and cowboy hats—though none of us knew what we were doing. It took most of the song for us to figure out the steps, but it was a fun and hilarious process as we watched each other dance awkwardly out of sync. That night in Dallas, Texas, I learned what it felt like to bond with a community. The people we meet in the places we visit can be as much of an attraction as the places themselves. As you’re planning your next trip to Dallas, consider visiting the following places for a chance to meet new people, have a good time, and, of course, get a taste of southern hospitality.

16 ▶ winter 2014

Trail Dust

That memorable evening of dancing occurred within the walls of Trail Dust, an authentic Texan restaurant. As you walk in, you’ll notice that the walls are covered with the severed neckties of people who have come to Trail Dust expecting to dine formally. If having your tie chopped off doesn’t tell you that this is going to be a “down-home country experience,” seeing a large metal slide going through the middle of the restaurant should give it away. The live country music, open dance floor, and delicious southern steaks combine to make the perfect Texan dining experience, proving that the only thing bigger than a Texan’s heart is his or her stomach. ▶▶

traildust.com

State Fair

With big hearts come big feelings. For most Texans, the symbol or

monument that represents the heart and soul of the people is Big Tex. Standing 52 feet tall, Big Tex has been the iconic symbol of the State Fair of Texas since 1952. In October 2012, Big Tex was destroyed by an internal electrical fire, initiating a statewide grieving period. But the Texans did not stay down long. A new and improved Big Tex is already standing, so you can still expect to receive his warm greeting when visiting the fair. However, Big Tex certainly isn’t the only attraction at the fair. After passing this iconic greeter, you’re sure to notice the Texas Star, one of the tallest Ferris wheels in the nation. It’s a great ride for those who enjoy the thrill of high altitudes or for those who just want a great view of the city. Afterwards, grab some of the fair’s famous deep-fried food—but don’t limit yourself to fried chicken. At the fair you can try anything deep-fried: deep-fried cotton candy, deep-fried

Coke, deep-fried Doritos pizza, deepfried butter, deep-fried bacon cinnamon rolls, and the list goes on. This interminable number of deep-fried foods owes its variety to the spirit of competition that inspires these crazy but tasty combinations. After filling your gut with the many manifestations of trans fats, enjoy carnival rides and games, listen to a concert, watch the bird or bike shows, or reignite your creative side with pumpkin carving and face painting. As the largest state fair in the United States, the State Fair of Texas really has it all. It even hosts the rivalry football game between the University of Oklahoma and the University of Texas at Austin. Plan your trip carefully because the fair is open only during the fall.

Photography by Vittoriofe and Mica Dew

▶▶

Thankfully, for the faint of heart, this intense display is broken up by shows of brave children clinging to the downy wool of sheep that race around the arena in an event called Mutton Bustin’. You can also see steer wrestling, Dash-For-Cash (where a hoard of children chase after money strapped to a fleeing calf), tie-down roping, and cowgirl barrel racing. The rodeo provides plenty of excitement and entertainment throughout the year, all steeped in the flavor of the South.

Treated Like Family

Wherever you go in Dallas—whether you are at a restaurant, a rodeo, or on the road asking for directions—you will be treated like family and receive a big sincere dose of southern hospitality. As you go about your travels, enjoying the southern steaks and picturesque sunsets, don’t be afraid to make some new friends and maybe even do the chicken dance. ▶▶

mesquiterodeo.com

—Alex Simmons

bigtex.com

Mesquite ProRodeo Finally, your trip to Dallas wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the Mesquite ProRodeo. There is nothing like sitting up against a rodeoloving southerner and watching dirt and dung fly into the air as a group of masochistic cowboys are tossed around on hyped-up horses and berserk bulls.

Above: To get the full Dallas experience, be sure to go to a rodeo. Top: Dallas features a thriving arts district, several professional sports teams, and a lively dining scene.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 17

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Literary New England A Stroll around the Writers’ Block

New England is home to many famous authors. Today, many of their residences have become museums or National Historic Landmarks. Why not travel to some of their homes to see where they got their inspiration? Grant Olsen, a freelance writer and literary enthusiast who visited many of New England’s literary sites in 2012, voices the feelings of many travelers: “I love history and literature, so when they intersect it’s magical.” Here are some ideas about where to go and what to see on your tour of literary New England.

Emily Dickinson

Amherst, Massachusetts The American poet Emily Dickinson was born in Amherst, Massachusetts, and spent most of her life there. Dickinson withdrew from public life and lived in her house as a recluse until her death. You can visit her home, known as The Homestead, in Amherst, one of the most beautiful parts of Massachusetts. The Homestead is now a museum and includes The Evergreens, which is the former residence of Dickinson’s brother. The Evergreens houses a collection of more than 200 works of art. (The Emily Dickinson Museum is closed January–February.) emilydickinsonmuseum.org

Henry David Thoreau

Concord, Massachusetts

Thoreau withstood two winters at Walden Pond while writing Walden.

20 ▶ winter 2014

In a famous transcendentalist experiment, Henry David Thoreau built and lived in a rural cabin near Walden Pond for more than two years. His book Walden records these experiences. The pond, located in Concord, Massachusetts, spans more than 60 acres and reaches depths of more than 100 feet. Technically, it isn’t a pond; it’s a lake. But that simply

Photo courtesy of flickr user MeeshDragon

▶▶

getaways

means there’s more to see and do while you’re there. Take a hike around Walden Pond and discover the hundreds of acres of woods surrounding it. You can even go fishing or swimming in Walden Pond. If you’re looking for a more relaxing vacation activity, grab some lunch and have a picnic near the water’s edge, or rent a canoe and go for a ride. It’s easy to become distracted by the beauty of nature here, but don’t forget to also take a tour of Thoreau’s cabin. ▶▶

mass.gov/eea/agencies/dcr/ massparks/region-north/waldenpond-state-reservation.html

Ralph Waldo Emerson

Concord, Massachusetts Also in Concord is the home—and now museum—of Ralph Waldo Emerson, one of Thoreau’s good friends and a fellow transcendentalist. The only way to view Emerson’s house is by guided tour, which includes a wealth of information about Emerson’s life and literature. Nearby is the Concord Museum, where you can find even more information about Emerson, as well as other authors and topics. ▶▶

nps.gov/nr/travel/massachusetts_conservation/ralph_waldo_ emerson_house.html#plan

Louisa May Alcott

Photo by Steven Erat

Concord, Massachusetts Louisa May Alcott, author of Little Women, also lived in Concord. As with Emerson’s home, the only way to see Louisa May Alcott’s house (also called Orchard House) is by guided tour. In December, the Orchard House hosts an annual holiday program. If you visit in September, you can participate in the Annual 5K/10K Run or 5K Walk. This race follows a beautiful course through Concord, and the money raised goes toward supporting historical preservation. ▶▶

louisamayalcott.org

Orchard House, home of Louisa May Alcott, hosts an annual holiday program in December.

Robert Frost

Derry, New Hampshire An hour north of Concord, stop in Derry, New Hampshire, where you can visit the farm where Robert Frost lived for 11 years. You can take a tour or attend a poetry reading. Also be sure to enjoy the local scenery—fall is especially beautiful in Derry. Frost describes it best in his poem “Nothing Gold Can Stay,” when he writes, “Nature’s first green is gold, / Her hardest hue to hold.” The Robert Frost Farm is open only from May to October, but if you go during the winter, you can still walk around the grounds and take pictures or even explore the nature trail nearby. ▶▶

robertfrostfarm.org

Mark Twain

Hartford, Connecticut William Faulkner referred to Mark Twain as “the father of American literature.” Twain was living in Hartford, Connecticut, when he wrote The Adventures of Tom Sawyer— which some consider to be the great American novel. In addition to visiting Mark Twain’s home, which was designed by his wife and is known for

its unique beauty, be sure to reserve enough time to enjoy the exhibits in the nearby Mark Twain Museum Center. ▶▶

marktwainhouse.org

Harriet Beecher Stowe

Hartford, Connecticut While you’re in Hartford, you can also visit the house of Mark Twain’s neighbor, Harriet Beecher Stowe, author of Uncle Tom’s Cabin. The Harriet Beecher Stowe Center and cottage will give you a greater appreciation of this author and her work. You can visit the museum store or enjoy one of the events the center often hosts. These events include guest speakers, book signings, and book readings. For example, on March 19, the center will host a 24-hour reading of Stowe’s novel Uncle Tom’s Cabin. Visit the website to see a calendar of other events happening at or near the Stowe Center. ▶▶

harrietbeecherstowecenter.org

—Lauren Dyas

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 21

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Features Photo by Thomas Hawk

Come and see a colorful Hindu holiday that is celebrated around the world.

Festival of Colors: Redefining Holi in Spanish Fork, Utah

Sochi 2014: A Window to World Culture

Reclaiming New Orleans: From Rubble to Art

Turning the Bones: Malagasy Rituals to Honor the Dead

Remaining in Romania: One Internâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Struggle with Culture Shock

Discover a Hindu religious holiday as it is celebrated in northern Utah.

While countries from all over the world come together for the Olympics to showcase their athleticism, they also come together to share culture. This winter, experience both in Sochi, Russia.

Eight years after Hurricane Katrina, community artists are still fighting to reclaim a sense of community for New Orleans residents.

Experience a traditional Malagasy burial ritual through the eyes of the people of Madagascar.

Follow Nicole Shaw as she overcomes challenges on her internship in Romania.

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 23

Festival

24 â&#x2013;ś winter 2014

C of olors Redefining Holi in Spanish Fork, Utah

By Catherine Billings www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 25

10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2,

I firmly grasp the handful of colored powder. I pull the neckline of my T-shirt over my mouth and nose.

I tightly squeeze my eyes shut.

I join tens of thousands of people in throwing colored powder into the air. The sky is painted with bright pink, purple, orange, and yellow clouds. The clouds blend together and rain down on the participants below. Welcome to the Festival of Colors.

Every year in the early spring, the Sri Sri Radha Krishna Temple in Spanish Fork, Utah (approximately 50 miles south of Salt Lake City), hosts one of the largest Festival of Colors events in the Western Hemisphere. On each of the two days of the festival, scheduled “throwings” of colored powder occur throughout the day. These throwings are preceded by countdowns led by an announcer over a microphone. Throughout the festival, musicians play traditional music that features the names of God, and they lead the crowd in mantras. Participants mingle in the crowd in front of a stage where people dance, crowd surf, form conga lines, and generally have fun. Those who aren’t interested in the crowd can eat authentic Indian food, visit the temple’s llamas, shop among a variety of vendors, or explore the outside of the temple. The temple’s interior is closed during the Festival of Colors to preserve its cleanliness. Between scheduled throwings, it is entirely commonplace for participants to throw, smear, or sprinkle the colored powder on each other. This colorful festival in Spanish Fork is based on the Hindu religious holiday Holi (pronounced the same as holy). The celebration of Holi began

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Previous page: Participants throw colored powder into the air during one of the throwings at the Festival of Colors in Spanish Fork, Utah. Top: Crowd surfers are hoisted up by friends and strangers. Bottom: A conga line weaves through the crowd in between throwings.

Previous page: photo by Chris Chabot; top: photo by Thomas Hawk; bottom: photo by Steven Gerner

Participating in the Festival

in northern India but has since spread to southern India, other South Asian countries, and even the rest of the world. Because Holi is celebrated as a two-day event in Spanish Fork, the experience is very different from what one would experience in India, where Holi is celebrated as a holiday that can span several days. Dr. Charles Nuckolls, a professor of anthropology at Brigham Young University, explains one of the biggest differences: “In India, Holi is not a crowd process. There can be crowds, but that’s not really how it works. You don’t stand in place and wait for the powder to descend upon you. You could be walking anywhere and somebody pops out and throws color on you.”

Photo by Thomas Hawk

Transforming Traditional Holi

In India, the Holi Festival is celebrated in conjunction with the full moon of Phalguna, which usually falls during February and March of the Gregorian calendar. Caru Das Adikari, the priest of the Spanish Fork Krishna Temple, always schedules the Spanish Fork event on a Saturday and Sunday as late as possible during spring to increase the probability of warm, dry weather. In 2014, the event takes place on March 29 and 30. The best-known component of the Holi Festival is the throwing of colored powder or water. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Krishna (one of the ten incarnations of Vishnu, the supreme god of Hinduism) was jealous of Radha’s fair complexion, so he smeared color on Radha’s face. Thus, it was Krishna’s playful prank that started the tradition of throwing color during Holi. The throwing of color is the main event at the Spanish Fork celebration. Although throwing dyed water is popular in India, Caru Das felt that it would be best to ban all liquids due

A Holika effigy burns during the Festival of Colors in Spanish Fork.

to Utah’s much chillier climate during early spring. Even though the Color Festival is now structured around scheduled throwings, the element of spontaneous ambushes of color is still present. In India, a bonfire is traditionally lit on the eve of Holi, known as Holika Dahan, to reenact the myth of Holika and Prahlad. According to Hindu mythology, a demon king named Hiranya Kashipu declared himself ruler of the universe.

However, his son Prahlad refused to worship him and worshiped Vishnu instead. Hiranya Kashipu asked his sister Holika to carry Prahlad into a fire, knowing that Holika had a boon from the god Brahma that allowed her to be unharmed by fire. However, Prahlad’s devotion to Vishnu allowed him to escape unharmed while Holika burned to death for attempting to use her boon to do harm. Thus, the bonfire represents the victory of good over evil.

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Top left: photo by Pison Jaujip; top right: photo by Anant Nath Sharma; bottom: photo by Pison Jaujip

Above and top left: In Kharadi, India, people take to the streets on Holi to celebrate Hindu tradition. Top right: Friends in Pune, India, splash each other with colored water. In Spanish Fork, powder is used instead because of the colder climate.

A bonfire with an effigy of Holika is lit once or twice each year at the celebration in Spanish Fork, but it is easy to miss. Caru Das explains that the bonfire’s low profile is partially due to worries about the safety of Holi participants and partially due to concerns from local fire departments.

Finding a New Meaning

Photo by Thomas Hawk

Historically, Holi was a ritual of reversal, in which people who are stratified at the lowest level of society have an opportunity to reverse the hierarchy and symbolically abuse those who are of higher status without fear of retribution—women to men, young to old, low caste to high caste, poor to rich. The Festival of Colors as it is celebrated in Spanish Fork retains the idea of changing the status quo but

achieves this change quite differently than the traditional reversal of hierarchy. This festival breaks down normal barriers by allowing participants to interact with both friends and strangers. Courtenay Maynes, a senior at Brigham Young University (BYU) from Vancouver, Washington, describes her experience: “As we arrived at the festival, we’d walk past people covered in colors. Random people we didn’t even know were throwing colors at us and hugging us. Once we got to the temple, everyone was dancing and throwing colors at people that walked by. As we saw the ‘clean’ people coming in, we would throw color on them. Everyone interacted with each other even though we each came in our own group.” The powdered colors conceal aspects of personal identity that might serve to distinguish people from each other. Cori Scott, a BYU

student from Hillsboro, Oregon, explains, “You can’t really pick out people. Everyone looks the same, so I wouldn’t be able to recognize my friends afterward unless they said something to me.” Dr. Nuckolls hypothesizes that this process of concealing physical differences establishes commonality among participants. Ultimately, the Festival of Colors in Spanish Fork, Utah, has successfully translated many aspects of traditional Holi celebrations. Not only are many of the traditions preserved, but the underlying goal of challenging social hierarchy is also maintained. The next time you are looking for a socially unifying experience, or perhaps just a way to release your frustration and stress, look no further than Spanish Fork, Utah. utahkrishnas.org festivalofcolorsusa.com ▶▶ holifestival.org ▶▶ ▶▶

The Sri Sri Radha Krishna Temple in Spanish Fork, Utah, hosts one of the largest Festival of Colors events in the Western Hemisphere.

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Sochi 2014

A Window to World Culture

On February 7, the chilled air in Sochi, Russia, will crackle with excitement as thousands of people cram into the Fisht Olympic Stadium, cameras glinting like a school of fish in an ocean of bodies. Tweets and texts in a myriad of languages will fly to destinations across the globe to share the memory of the moment. And with music and dancing, art and narration, the 2014 Winter Olympic Games will begin. Whether you’re in the stadium or watching from home, the opening ceremonies will open your mind to the Sochi way of seeing the world. In fact, the actual athletic events are just a small part of the complete Sochi experience.

Cultural Olympiad

For the past four years, performers from 53 provinces in Russia and from 20 additional countries have traveled throughout Russia competing in an event known as the Cultural Olympiad for a chance to perform during the Winter Games. “The Sochi 2014 Cultural Olympiad is a unique project by the organizers of the Games, offering the

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best cultural events in the country,” the official website reports. “In 2014, visitors to the Olympic host city will not only be able to evaluate the sporting competitions, but also [experience] Russia’s cultural diversity at dozens of performance venues located in Sochi and Krasnaya Polyana.” There will be presentations for everyone; events range from cinematic viewings to acrobatic performances, and from museum exhibits to music and dance. The sharing of cultures has always been part of the Olympic Games. Most Olympic committees have incorporated culture into their city’s Games through performances surrounding the running of the torch, during the opening and closing

ceremonies, or as part of the presentation of medals. Ed Austin, director of Brigham Young University’s International Folk Dance Ensemble, has taken his group to perform in conjunction with two Olympics: the 1988 Summer Games in Seoul, Korea, and the 2002 Winter Games in Salt Lake City. For him, cultural sharing is what the Olympics are all about. “The Olympic Games promote uniting countries that, over the years, have had a hard time being united,” Austin says. “It pushes peace. That’s what the spirit of the Olympics has always been: to bring us together.” And that can happen whether you’re in Sochi, at home, or gathered with friends or strangers anywhere across the globe.

From left: photography by Donald Judge, Ola Matsson, Ivan Aivanova, and Alexander V. Solomin.

By AmberLee Hansen

getaways

Cultural Sochi

If you are headed to Sochi for the 2014 Winter Games, here are a few things you won’t want to miss.

Food

Clockwise from left: photography by Copypaiste, Deror Avi, and flickr user YN 08-09

To get a taste of any culture, you need to try the food. Before you leave Sochi, be sure your plate has been filled with an array of new choices and old favorites. “Russian food is great,” says Olga Ookhara, a native of eastern Russia. “The only thing is that we have bizarre types of food. In Russia, people eat liver or a cow tongue or raw pig fat—those kinds of things.” Russia is also known for its soups. Be sure to try borscht, a beet-based soup, and solyanka, a spicy, thick tomato chowder. And don’t leave the country without some blini—a thin,

crepe-like griddle cake that can be filled with anything from caviar to sweet jam.

Art “I believe when you look at a culture’s art, when you look at their music, their dance, their theater presentations, it reflects the well from where the water comes,” Austin says. “It reflects their history and where they lived because of things like dress and materials—those are part of their traditions. You’re not just looking at a series of steps danced to music; you’re looking at something that goes much deeper.” Take a dive into that well with the best the Cultural Olympiad has to offer. Performances will be going on around Sochi and other areas in Russia throughout the games.

Places Russia has a rich history of tsars, dictators, and federalist leadership—a history that is reflected in the architecture of the city of Sochi. Most notable is the Sochi Railway Station; its majestic white arches running the length of the building and the stately clock tower that stands by the building’s side will transport you back to the Stalin era in Russia’s history. But Sochi is about more than just its rulers. Sochi is also known for friendship. A living representation of that worldwide friendship can be found at the Friendship Tree Garden Museum. There, visitors will find a tree grown from over 170 buds planted by notable guests from across the globe, a true embodiment of transcending differences to create beauty.

Left: A Russian babushka peddles her sweet, traditional treats. Top right: Blini, or a thin, pancake-like griddle cake, is common Russian cuisine, pictured here as a savory meal with sour cream and caviar. Bottom right: Kim Yu-na, the 2010 champion in ladies’ singles, will also be competing in the 2014 Olympics in Sochi.

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An appreciation of cultural diversity is reflected in the Sochi 2014 medals: the Sochi mountains depicted on the medals are textured by an array of symbols from nations and ethnicities across Russia.

Even if you aren’t in Sochi, these Winter Games can still jumpstart your cultural awareness. Try visiting a restaurant with authentic food from the country whose athletes medaled in your favorite event. Even if you decide you don’t like the food, you will have a fuller view of the country and its traditions, associated with smells and tastes unique to your experience. If you want to sample multiple cultures, find an art or dance festival being held near you. Folk dance festivals held across the globe can teach unique lessons about a country’s culture. Wherever you end up enjoying the Olympics this winter, find a way to round out your athletic experience with some culture. “I think part of the goal of having an Olympics is really letting us get to know one another,” Austin observes. “We dance in other people’s shoes when we watch them on stage.” Whether it is food or music, dance or museums, or even tuning in to the opening ceremonies, your Olympic experience won’t be complete without a dash of culture. Amidst your wild cheers for fellow countrymen and your tears of pride as you listen to your anthem laud your nation’s athletic achievement, take a moment to look at the stranger standing next to you; take a moment to dance in his shoes.

History of Sochi When the Olympic Committee announced its decision to let Sochi host the 2014 Winter Games, the world rejoiced, excited to let Russia host its first games as a country. But Russians just scratched their heads. Sochi? While anywhere in Russia might evoke images of snow and ice and cold for most of the world, natives have always considered Sochi to be a warm resort town complete with palm trees and beaches. Located in southern Russia on the shores of the Black Sea, Sochi has a conflicted political history. Because of its beautiful climate and advantageous location as a shipping port, empire after empire took control of the region during the Middle Ages only to lose it again to the next invaders. Eventually, Sochi became part of what is now Russia, and the town was given its current name. Sochi is not located near any of Russia’s large, internationally recognized cities like Moscow or St. Petersburg. Instead, it lies south of Ukraine in the more temperate climates of the region. However, as host city to the XXII Olympic Winter Games, Sochi may see the economic growth needed to add its name to the list of notable and known Russian cities.

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Photo by Andy Miah

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Photo Credit: See style guide to review credit wording before writing this.

Reclaiming New Orleans From Rubble to Art By Kayla Swan www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 35

Eight years after Hurricane Katrina, some areas of New Orleans are completely restored. “You would have never guessed that Uptown New Orleans, the Garden District, or downtown had even been affected by the hurricane,” says resident Freddie Hanson. “Parts of the city in the East and Ninth Ward, though, have barely come back, if at all. They still look like ground zero or a war zone.” Some residents have returned to and repaired their homes in these districts. However, other houses and complexes are still boarded-up or condemned, and residents have not returned. In these areas, there is an obvious need for reconstruction. But New Orleans needs more than just livable housing to encourage residents to return: the residents need their city back. They need its heritage to be reclaimed and its sense of community to return. Three artists in particular have focused their creations on these community issues to provide healing and camaraderie within some of New Orleans’s more neglected areas.

Brandan “Bmike” Odums is one person who decided not to accept destruction as an inalterable fate. He decided to do something about a public housing project in the Ninth District that has sat empty and condemned for the entire eight years since Katrina wreaked her havoc. The building is slated for demolition this year. But before it goes, Odums is leaving a message on its interior walls—a message telling others that every part of the city is meaningful and purposeful. Anyone who manages to walk into the closed-down building now sees the words Project Be painted on the walls, a title explaining how Odums’s graffiti artwork is experienced by being—perhaps specifically by being where it should not be. Covering the walls from floor to ceiling, Odums’s artwork emphasizes that everything has value inherently because of its

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Odums’s portraits of Martin Luther King, Jr., Coretta King, and Frederick Douglass decorate the walls inside of an abandoned building.

Photography courtesy of Brandan Odums

Brandan Odums

existence. Images of Odums’s heroes, including many American civil rights movement leaders, are juxtaposed with quotes from songs, speeches, and books. The final wall Odums painted for the project reads, “Don’t let me be misunderstood.” The graffiti is technically illegal, and some might be tempted to dismiss it as simple vandalism. However, locals see value in the project, even though no one will ever move back into the condemned, though decorated, building. “It was something that for eight years was overlooked and forgotten,” Odums explains in a tour recorded by The Times-Picayune, a New Orleans newspaper. “And by way of art, we’re able to transform it into some form of gold.” He decided to create something to benefit the entire community, rather than just let the building deteriorate while waiting for its demolition. But for the present time, travelers won’t be able to witness Odums’s art for themselves. Painting or viewing the graffiti requires trespassing, and for safety reasons, no one is allowed in the building. You can see some of Odums’s paintings online, however. And residents and fans are currently lobbying to preserve the murals, even though the building itself is to be torn down. ▶▶

return home, improve their quality of life, and strengthen their communities.” Project workers don’t just rebuild destroyed houses. They try to improve each resident’s quality of life and help strengthen community ties. One such case of reconstruction is the Hoffman Triangle project. In 2009, the Hoffman Triangle, an area located in the Central City neighborhood of New Orleans, received some unwelcome additions. This section of town, which was already filled with vacant lots and abandoned houses, received more abandoned houses. The area had been neglected after the 2005 hurricane, and in 2009, ruined homes from another neighborhood in the city were physically relocated

here to make room for a new hospital. What’s more, many of the relocated houses weren’t even complete houses. Workers simply cut down the houses to the dimensions of the moving trucks. These buildings and homes with missing roofs and walls were left abandoned, yet again, in the Hoffman Triangle. The US Recovery Project accepted the responsibility for this community’s in-between state in the transition between abandonment and repurposing. Partnering with KID smART, an educational program integrating art into the curriculum, the US Recovery Project set to work repairing the gaps, both physical and cultural, in the housing of Hoffman Triangle. Artists

nola.com/arts/index.ssf/2013/09/ allow_the_public_to_visit_ bran_1.html

Photography by Karen Apricot

The United Saints Recovery Project

The United Saints (US) Recovery Project, formed in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, accepted the task of reconstruction like many other organizations did. The project’s mission, however, includes more than just physically rebuilding New Orleans; it is “to assist communities that have suffered damage from natural disasters, helping residents

Top: Some homes and other buildings are unsafe to enter. Bottom: After children from KID smART painted plywood murals, volunteers helped install them onto abandoned buildings.

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Photo by flickr user Katherine

young and old painted murals on the plywood that was then used to patch walls and cover windows. The collection of art makes the area look more like a community cultural center than an abandoned place because the residents have reclaimed it as their own. ▶▶

unitedsaints.org

▶▶

kidsmart.org

Candy Chang

By far, the movement that invites the most artistic participation was one started by Candy Chang, a New Orleans artist and activist. Chang combined her various interests in a way that serves the community at large while inviting them to contribute. After the hurricane, many storefronts were left abandoned and boarded up. In 2010, Chang began an artistic experiment. She distributed fill-in-the-blank stickers and permanent markers around the vacant storefronts of the city. Each sticker read “I wish this was ” and allowed passersby to fill in the space and stick their idea on the wall. Though many responses are functional—“I wish this was a grocery” or “I wish this was a bike shop”— the stickers also provide an outlet for imagination and hope. Some said, “I wish this was full of people” and “I wish this was a city without theft.” The residents took ownership of the city, verbalizing their hopes and aspirations for its buildings. Chang next turned to repurposing space on an abandoned home. She painted one side of the home with chalkboard paint and covered it with more fill-in-the-blanks, this time reading, “Before I die I want to____.” Using the pieces of chalk beside the large board, passersby quickly took advantage of the opportunity to express themselves, and the board soon filled up with responses: some funny, moving, uplifting, or even all three. One person wrote, “Before I

die I want to own my own house.” Others wrote, “Before I die I want to see New Orleans thrive” and “Before I die I want to swim in a pool of golden retriever puppies.” Chang’s work has inspired not only people in her immediate community but also people everywhere. For example, the response to “Before I Die” has been overwhelming, with fans creating their own boards in cities around the world. By bringing her New Orleans neighborhood together, Chang has also connected them to the much larger global community of people with similar hopes and desires. ▶▶

candychang.com

Moving Forward

Hurricane Katrina wiped out much of New Orleans structurally, but it couldn’t destroy the city’s deep artistic heritage. Community artists like Odums, the US Recovery Project, Chang, and many others have made the initial moves, but it will take continuing efforts to maintain progress toward full reclamation. Whether you are a resident of New Orleans or simply a visitor, you can take these community goals and infuse them into your own area by sharing your ideas of hope and progress.

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40 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

Turning the Bones Malagasy Rituals to Honor the Dead By Caitlin Metzger

42 â&#x2013;ś winter 2014

With one final cut into mortar and clay, the crypt falls open, the gathered family watching in near-silence. Tears fill the eyes of some; others have smiles on their faces. Two men disappear into the tomb and return carrying a bundle wrapped in linens. They carry the body of one of the men’s grandmothers. Loud music begins to play, and tears of sadness turn to tears of joy as families tell stories of their parents and grandparents. Children and adults lovingly stroke the cloth-wrapped bodies of their ancestors and soon begin to dance. The famadihana (fa-ma-DEE-an), or turning of the bones, has commenced. The grief that comes with the death of a loved one can take many forms. It can be manifest in saying goodbye to friends or family members or in honoring them in a symbolic and meaningful way. In some cultures, funerals are somber and serious. But other cultures—such as that of the Malagasy, the people of Madagascar—have traditions rooted in celebration and rejoicing.

Opposite page: photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons; all other photography by Caitlin Metzger

History and Family

Madagascar, an island country located in the Indian Ocean off the coast of southeastern Africa, is home to more than 22 million people. Nearly 90% of its people live on less than $2 a day, and poverty and heartbreak are everywhere. Orphaned children wander the streets barefoot and hungry, carrying all their possessions on their backs. Families of 10 or 12 people live in one-room homes with dirt floors and no electricity or running water. Work is hard to come by, and many parents struggle to feed their children. But there is also great beauty in the cultural traditions found amidst these harsh realities of everyday life. The Malagasy are a people deeply rooted in tradition and culture. The family is very important and is traditionally made up of more than just the father, mother, and children. Aunts, uncles, nieces, and nephews are also part of the main family body and play a vital role in family life. Younger generations show great respect for their elders, and this honor and veneration extends to the deceased.

Beliefs and Respect

Cultures all over the world differ greatly in beliefs about death and what happens after a loved one dies. These cultural beliefs can greatly impact all aspects of life. Traditionally, Malagasy believe in God—once called Zanahary (za-na-HA-ree), or Creator. Their God is now called Andriamanitra (an-gee-a-MAUNCH), meaning sweet or fragrant Lord. Ziva Rakotondrasoa (ra-koo-toon-jraSOO-a), a Madagascar native, says of his culture, “Malagasy believe that our souls live after death, and we believe a life is a gift from God. We do believe that if a loved one dies, he or she still lives on the other side.”

Opposite page: Malagasy carry the body of a deceased relative as they participate in the turning of the bones. Above: A mother and son take a short reprieve from their endless daily chores.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 43

For Malagasy, close familial ties continue even when a loved one has passed on. Sometimes described as gods on earth, the dead play an important part in the daily life of their descendants. They are seen as intermediaries between God and the living, and as such have the power to impact the circumstances of the living for better or for worse. The respect Malagasy feel for their ancestors, combined with their desire to remain in good standing with their gods on earth, makes up the foundation for the way they continue to honor their ancestors after death.

Burial Traditions and Rituals

The Malagasy honor their ancestors in a traditional burial ritual called a famadihana. Every five to seven years, people reopen their families’ tombs and carry out the wrapped remains of their ancestors. They rewrap the dead in fresh shrouds and then dance around the tombs to live music, holding their ancestors above their shoulders. “I went with my family and did a famadihana,” Rakotondrasoa explains. “We wrapped the body of my grandma. Usually the event lasts two days. It can be more, depending on the area. The first day is a day to clean the surroundings of the graveyard. There is a party at night. The second day, we feed guests with vary be menaka (rice and pork). We dance. From the ancestor’s old house, we dance on the road and hold the shroud and mats we are going to use to put the body on after we take them out from the grave.”

Joy and Celebration Top: Children say hello to their animal friends that will one day become dinner. Bottom: Walking amidst red clay and green trees is common in Madagascar, even during the winter.

44 ▶ winter 2014

Rakotondrasoa also states that the event is light and joyous. Although those in attendance weep when the grave is opened, the overall feel of the ceremony is that of a celebration.

After the remains of the dead are wrapped in new linens, loud music plays, and all family members dance seven times around the grave. To some, this practice might seem macabre, but for the Malagasy, it is a meaningful and symbolic way to honor those who have gone before them. Families from different parts of the country get together and tell stories about the ancestors whose remains are lying before them. Tears are discouraged, and the event is happy and joyous rather than somber or solemn. Relationships among the living are strengthened as family members see each other again for the first time in years. They smile and laugh as they reminisce and speak lovingly about their dead.

Peace and Parting

As the dancing dies down and the music stops, the freshly wrapped bodies are returned to their resting places. Loved ones among the living carefully place them in the crypts, and the tombs are once again sealed, not to be opened for another five to seven years. It is with peace and a newfound respect in their hearts that the Malagasy again say goodbye to their deceased relatives. “I respect my loved ones,” Rakotondrasoa concludes. “I know I will meet them once again, so I want to show to them that they are still remembered once they are gone.”

Top: Family ties, both past and present, are important to the Malagasy people. Bottom: Neighborhood children play while their parents work.

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Remaining

in Romania

One Internâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Struggle with Culture Shock By Alannah Autrey

Nicole Shaw narrowed her eyes at the boy standing in front of her, ignoring his taunting friends. Nicole’s fellow interns grabbed at her shirt from behind, attempting to pull her away, afraid she might lose her cool. The boys had been harassing the interns, and Nicole had had enough.

A month earlier, Nicole had arrived in Iasi, Romania, for an internship. She came to work in an orphanage by day and a children’s hospital by night. She was among 14 American female students helping in Iasi. At first, the boys hadn’t seemed threatening to Nicole. “When I first got there, I was a little flattered by the fact that they were always staring at us,” Nicole explains. “Then, as the time went on, it was just getting old super fast.” Nicole was surprised when multiple teenage boys surrounded and began taungting her group of interns one day. “We were coming back from the hospital, and we went down a road where some teenagers were. They wouldn’t stop harassing us; they wouldn’t leave us alone,” Nicole says. “I got angry and got in the face of one of the guys because I was just really overwhelmed.” A few days later, it happened again. This was the last straw for Nicole. She had been working in Romania for only a short time and found that being in this country was harder than she had expected. Her journal became her confidant: “Lately, I have been struggling emotionally. I spent thousands of dollars for this internship, donated an entire summer of my time to try and help others and give as much as I possibly could,” she wrote. “But I’ve been dwelling on how I am seen here—by many Romanians and especially teenage boys. To many of them, I am a stupid American or a sexual object. It has made me feel so disgusting. I have been consumed by those negative emotions, allowing them to eat away

48 ▶ winter 2014

at me, until I am left wondering why I am here in the first place.” But it wasn’t only the Romanian boys that were affecting Nicole. She felt like the full-time orphanage workers didn’t understand the interns either. “They appreciated our help, but they didn’t understand why we were there,” Nicole explains. “Someone would ask, ‘Why are you spending thousands of dollars just to take care of these kids that no one cares about?’” As a student from Brigham Young University (BYU) studying psychology, Nicole had decided to go to Romania after she studied the importance of nurturing and interacting with children. She wanted to help the children in the orphanages, who were not receiving that love. However, many people didn’t seem to agree with Nicole’s mission. “When I explained it, they just didn’t understand,” she says. So when Nicole experienced these two frightening encounters with Romanian young men, she knew that she wanted to go home. “At that point, I was done with Romania. I didn’t want anything to do with the people,” she says. “I felt like we were just objects to the men there. I felt like I was doing so much work and it wasn’t being recognized.” Feeling discouraged, she asked herself, “How am I going to survive two more months of this?”

“

A New Perspective Fortunately, Nicole’s fellow interns wanted to help. They tried to explain that not all Romanians were like the few who made the internship difficult. Her internship facilitator, Aislynn Collier, also gave Nicole encouragement. Collier had worked as an intern in Romania the previous summer and recognized that Nicole was going through culture shock. Collier reminded Nicole that many people experience culture shock and that she needed to push through this difficult phase of her internship. She assured Nicole that with time, she would be able to accept Romania’s culture into her life. Nicole realized that to do this successfully, she needed to focus less on herself and more on learning from the people around her. Soon, she met Romanians who helped her to do just that. “A couple days after that second incident with the boys, we went to a store to pick up some things before taking the train ride back to Iasi, and there was a young man and his mother who owned the ice cream shop,” Nicole remembers. “As soon as they found out we were Americans, they got all 14 of us free ice cream sundaes.” Nicole was grateful for their generosity. “They just sat with us. It

I was done with Romania. I didn’t want anything to do with the people.

”

Illustrations by and photography courtesy of Nicole Shaw, except as noted

Hard Times in Romania

Top left and bottom right: photography courtesy of Stock.xchng

“

Children who deserve love more than anybody don’t get it.

”

Each day, interns like Nicole in Iasi, Romania, spend three hours at the hospital and another three hours helping children at the orphanage.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 49

was comforting to me to know that there were people out there who were loving and kind,” she explains. “They want to genuinely get to know you and they appreciate you for who you are. That rekindled my appreciation for where I was and for the Romanian people.” Along with being willing to understand new people, Nicole learned to appreciate her life in Romania. “I found value in everyday things I was doing—three hours in the morning with the kids, three hours in the afternoon in the hospital, exploring the churches,” Nicole says. “I loved taking walks; I loved the train rides; I loved the old architecture; I loved learning about the history.” One day Nicole and the other interns decided to explore the church they often passed on their way to work. What they found, though, was more than an empty cathedral. They opened the doors to a wedding ceremony! Nicole and the other interns decided to quietly move to the back corner of the church, hoping to observe the service unnoticed. They were worried that they would seem out of place but soon became enchanted by the ceremony. “There were these chanters. It was a beautiful sound,” Nicole remembers. “They would chant, and their voices echoed off the walls.” But even though the interns seemed to have lost themselves in the beauty of the moment, they were soon reminded that they didn’t belong there. While they were watching the ceremony, the well-dressed Romanians periodically glanced back at them—American girls dressed in jeans and T-shirts. “We obviously didn’t belong there,” Nicole recalls. But after a while, “some of the guests kept coming back to us and giving us candy, bread, fruit, and cake.” After the ceremony, the entire wedding party gathered on the front steps of the church and invited the interns to take pictures with them. Nicole remembers being embarrassed by the offer since she was an underdressed observer. But even while feeling embarrassed, she admired the respect these Romanians showed her; they accepted her. She wanted to show that same respect to those around her.

One Special Child

From top: Generally, multiple infants share a single hospital bed. Children play at Bridge of Love, an American-run camp that sponsors orphans in Bârlad, Romania. Nicole spends time with children at Bridge of Love. Inside the Metropolitan Cathedral, people appeal to Saint Parascheva by kissing her silk-wrapped hand.

50 ▶ winter 2014

Over the next two months in Romania, Nicole started recognizing kindness in many of the people of the country she had once wanted to leave. But it was ultimately one little girl in the orphanage who helped her to love Romania. “Demi—that child was like medicine for me,” says Nicole. “If I was having a bad week, all I needed was to go back to the orphanage and give her a hug.” Demi was a small child with autism.

“

I’m glad that in the end I decided not to judge. Otherwise I could have lost the opportunity to get to know some truly wonderful people.

”

“She was way too serious for a two-year-old. She was always so sad,” says Nicole. “She couldn’t talk. She couldn’t walk either, so that was something I worked on with her. By the end, she was taking 12 steps.” Nicole found joy in helping Demi in her own journey. “I think she’s a great example of the amazing work the interns do there, giving the children the love they deserve and need,” Nicole explains. “Demi is one of the many. The way they’ve changed and developed is just phenomenal.”

Stages of Culture Shock ▶▶

ple arrive in a foreign country, their attitude is euphoric and

excited. Everything is new and exotic, and travelers have high expectations for their personal ability to adjust to the new culture. Most people focus on the similarities between their home country and the new country. ▶▶

Irritation and hostility: Travel-

ers start to notice the differences from their home country or culture. Problems may arise, and travelers tend to blow these problems out of proportion. They may blame local people or customs for

Life Lessons Learned

But the children aren’t the only ones who grew from the three months the interns spent in Romania. Nicole didn’t realize that she had changed until her family began noticing differences in her character after she had returned to the United States. Her stepmother told her she noticed a difference in how Nicole looked at the world. “She told me that I appreciate things more,” says Nicole. “I realized how many people in the world have way less than I do, and there’s no reason for me to complain or expect anything more than what I already have. “The fact that children who deserve love more than anybody don’t get it is just the saddest thing,” she continues. “Being in Romania helped me come back to the States and appreciate even the smallest things.” The children she worked with helped Nicole learn to appreciate what she had. And other Romanians helped her learn to be accepting—accepting of other cultures and of other people. Reflecting on her experiences, Nicole later wrote very different words in her journal: “I’m glad that in the end I decided not to judge. Otherwise I could have lost the opportunity to get to know some truly wonderful people.” The things Nicole learned from her experiences in Romania can be helpful to others traveling abroad: “Go with an open mind. Ask lots of questions. People want you to learn from them. They’re grateful when you speak their language, when you ask them questions about their culture, about their religion, about their dress. They’re grateful if you make an effort to get to know them and their way of life.”

Honeymoon: When many peo-

these problems. Some travelers do not get past this stage. ▶▶

Gradual adjustment: This stage marks gradual recovery from

the crisis of the previous stage. Travelers begin to understand the language and cultural cues, so they begin to feel comfortable operating within the new culture. ▶▶

Biculturalism: Travelers in this

stage are able to function in two different cultures. They have fully recovered or are close to fully recovering from their earlier crisis. They begin appreciating many local customs—and may even miss some of them when they return home. Information adapted from “Culture Shock,” by world-renowned anthropologist, Kalervo Oberg. He first introduced the term culture shock in 1954.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 51

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54 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

Culture Photo by Scott Suchman

The cast of Mr. Burns, a Post-Electric Play performs with the Woolley Mammoth Theater Company in Washington, DC.

Rising Star in Theater: Washington, DC

Catching the Korean Wave

Dancers at Sea: Backstage with Cruise Performers

Dim Sum: Get Some!

Get the Inside Scoop on Savory Ice Cream Flavors: Salt & Straw

Avocado: Four Corners of the Kitchen

Take a break from the monuments to check out the capital’s thriving theater scene.

Ever heard of “Gangnam Style”? Learn more about the phenomenon behind this hit song.

Learn about life at sea through the eyes of cruise ship performers.

Get a taste for authentic Chinese cuisine with this how-to guide on navigating a dim sum restaurant experience.

Learn about an Oregon ice cream shop—Salt & Straw—and its mission to create fun, savory flavors that everyone can enjoy.

Discover new favorite recipes from the four corners of the globe, featuring the delicious avocado.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 55

Rising Star in Theater

Washington, DC

Arena Stage at the Mead Center for American Theater in southwest DC.

Theater is part of the vitality of US culture. When you mention theater, many people think of Broadway musicals like Les Misérables, Wicked, or The Phantom of the Opera. By association, New York City usually comes to mind, not the professional theater community that is only four hours’ drive away in Washington, DC. When you visit our nation’s capital, you may be tempted to focus your time on the National Mall and other spectacular locations that are unparalleled in distinction. But

there’s also a lot of exciting, innovative, and electrifying theater going on here. DC is not only a great theater town but also a rising star.

Making a Name

Theater towns like New York City and Chicago have always cast long shadows over smaller theater communities. But here’s the thing you need to know about professional theater: not all good (or even great) shows are

found on Broadway. For example, Signature Theatre in Arlington, Virginia, received the Tony Award for Regional Theatre in 2009, and the Shakespeare Theatre Company in Washington, DC, won the same award in 2012. Many successful Broadway shows got their start in DC, being written and rewritten before making it to New York. Arena Stage in DC helped revise the musical Next to Normal after it tanked in Off-Broadway

Above and following page: Mr. Burns, a Post-Electric Play, a show first performed in DC, was deemed “downright brilliant“ by New York Times writer Ben Brantley.

56 ▶ winter 2014

Top: photo by Nick Lehoux, courtesy of Arena Stage

One of the hidden gems of the performing arts world is the collection of high-quality theaters in and around Washington, DC. This small but powerful community of theater professionals has established a name for itself and is changing the future of American theater.

culture

venues. Afterward, the show garnered several Tony Awards and a Pulitzer Prize. Similarly, the Tony Award– winning Million Dollar Quartet originated at Signature Theatre.

Photography by Scott Suchman, courtesy of Woolly Mammoth Theater Company, unless otherwise noted

Forming Connections

Even though DC’s theater community is smaller than New York’s, its members more than make up for their smaller numbers in innovation. Theaters in other regions are often hesitant to house new plays and musicals because these have not been previously tested in front of audiences and are therefore considered risky business ventures. But because the majority of DC’s theaters are nonprofit, they favor innovation over strictly for-ticket sales when deciding whether to produce a show. By funding their operations through community fundraising events, these nonprofit theaters foster the creation of interesting works that challenge audiences and blaze new trails. The enormous financial support from the local residents demonstrates the incalculable value that the arts have in the DC region. Signature’s current 2013–14 season will have produced no fewer than four world premieres in its eight-show season.

Establishing a Community

DC-based choreographer Karma Camp says, “Next to New York City, DC has more regional theaters than any other city in the United States. It continues to grow and flourish in the theater world.” And she’s right. The League of Resident Theatres (LORT)—a nationwide organization of well-established professional theaters—has six theaters in the DC area. That’s three more than in Chicago and only one fewer than in New York.

Despite its growth and success, the DC theater community has its challenges. Dan Pruksarnukul, casting director at DC’s Arena Stage, says, “We do have a chip on our shoulder; we know we’re not seen as a huge city yet. A lot of people are sensitive about the competition with NYC and Chicago, so we pick up on that attitude.” One solution may be collaboration. Instead of competing, there is a lot of cooperation between DC and New York. The principal examples of this exchange of talents are Eric Schaeffer and Michael Kahn, the artistic directors of Signature and Shakespeare Theatres respectively, who have frequently directed Broadway productions, such as Million Dollar Quartet and Show Boat. There are also many actors in New York City and DC who will temporarily work in the other region on a show, later moving back home. Overall, the DC theater community is described best by Janine Sobeck, former artistic associate at Arena Stage: “DC is just a great town. It’s a very sharp and intelligent, gottheir-lives-together kind of community. DC already is a great theater town, and they just want people to know it.” If you’ve never thought about heading to see a show after a long day’s journey through DC’s museums and parks, now you know that you will be in good hands. Once you experience DC’s repertoire of highquality live theater—the original 3D—you’ll wonder why you’ve never visited this part of town before. ▶▶

theatrewashington.org

▶▶

dctheatrescene.com

—Bryce Peterson

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 57

department

Which Show? You have one free night in DC’s theater district—which show will hit the spot? While you can flip through a script before checking it out from your library, a live production provides no such preview. Follow this flowchart to find your perfect match. —Alicia Shumway

Do you go to the theater to engage your mind or to give it a break?

engage

take a break

Can you handle Shakespeare?

that’s rough

piece of cake

New work or tried and true classic?

tried and true

something new yes, please

Peter and the Starcatcher

Richard III

Kennedy Center

Shakespeare is a staple at the Folger Theatre. This winter will see a historical tragedy, Richard III, about the short reign of Richard III, king of England. It runs January 28 through March 9. Come back in April for a comedy, Two Gentlemen of Verona. ▶▶ folger.edu

The Kennedy Center hosts Broadway national tours and other large-scale productions. Peter and the Starcatcher, a wild and hilarious new hit play about pirates and magical “starstuff,” opens February 1 and runs through February 16. ▶▶ kennedy-center.org

58 ▶ winter 2014

Folger Theatre

The Importance of Being Earnest Shakespeare Theater Company

In spite of the implications of its title, Shakespeare Theatre Company puts on a variety of classical works. Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest is a piece on delightful wordplay and relationships. See an impeccable production between February 16 and March 2. ▶▶ shakespeare theatre.org

Violet Ford’s Theatre This season, Ford’s Theatre is housing a variety of theater styles. The musical Violet, which will play from January 24 to February 23, is being revived from 1997. With the main role being played by Broadway star Sutton Foster, this meaningful story about familial love and media-induced standards of beauty will surely be done justice. ▶▶ fordstheatre.org

gag me with a spoon

Water by the Spoonful Studio Theatre The Studio Theatre is known for new works, typically plays. Water by the Spoonful, a 2012 Pulitzer Prize-winner, centers on an Iraq war veteran adjusting to civilian life. It will run March 5 to April 13. Audiences are sure to identify with this brilliant play, which is contemporary in theme and humor. ▶▶ studiotheatre.org

From Left: photos by Kevin Harber, Shakespeare Theatre Company, Bobbi Bowers, Josh Howell, and Julie Ainsworth

How about a musical?

let your portfolio

take flight Publish your travel photos and anecdotes in Stowaway magazine. See previous contest winners at www.stowawaymag.com.

Catching the

Korean Wave

Following the Wave

South Korean rapper and performer PSY (short for psycho) released the song “Gangnam Style” on July 15, 2012. A little more than five months later, the song’s music video made history as the first online video to surpass one billion views. According to Billboard, “hundreds of thousands of parodies of the video have been uploaded to YouTube,” including a cover video about Mitt Romney. Although the “Psynomenon” has led to increased interest in South Korea, most Americans are unaware that the popularity of “Gangnam Style” is only a small part of a worldwide phenomenon known as the Korean Wave. The term Korean Wave refers to the spread of South Korean pop culture across the world. The Wave spread first to other Asian countries, then to the Middle East, Northern Africa, Latin America, and the United States. According to Dal Yong Jin, a professor in Simon Fraser University’s

60 ▶ winter 2014

School of Communication, Korean TV dramas were the first cultural product to achieve this global penetration. Other cultural products— including movies, pop music (known as K-pop), and online games—are following the path paved by Korean dramas. In the United States, the spread of the Korean Wave is still relatively isolated. Even the Korean drama powerhouse has yet to become integrated into mainstream pop culture. However, Korean dramas and K-pop still attract thousands of dedicated fans like Christina Hall throughout the United States.

Understanding the Culture

“The Korean culture is a very different culture,” Hall explains. “The first Korean drama that I saw clearly demonstrated this difference. At first, I thought, ‘This is the weirdest thing I’ve ever seen. Who acts like that?’

But then I wanted to know what happened next—it hooks you.” Carol Maynes, a 47-year-old mother of three living in Vancouver, Washington, had a similar first reaction. “I was caught off guard by how effeminately the boys were dressed. It took me a while to understand their humor,” says Maynes. “Sometimes the music implied that the scene was intended to be comedic, but I didn’t get what was supposed to be funny. However, once I caught on, I was hooked.” According to Crystal S. Anderson, director of the Kpop Kollective (a research initiative on the Korean Wave), the Korean culture exhibited in Korean dramas and K-pop is part of their appeal for fans. Dr. Julie Damron, a professor on Brigham Young University’s Korean Faculty, agrees. “They get attached to the dramas, and then they start to like the culture they see,” explains Dr. Damron. “They not only want to learn the language, but they want to go to Korea and to have Korean friends.”

Photo by Richard Freeman

Christina Hall may seem like a typical 20-year-old. After growing up in Lakewood, California, she left home to attend college, where she is working toward a bachelor’s degree in psychology. However, closer inspection of Hall’s life reveals some aspects that aren’t quite as typical. Her ringtone is SHINee’s “Ring Ding Dong.” Pictures of 2PM cover her laptop. She recently started watching “Protect the Boss” starring Choi Kanghee and Ji Sung. None of these names sound familiar? Perhaps “Gangnam Style” does.

culture

Photography courtesy of Republic of Korea

Learning the Language

In fact, Dr. Damron has noticed a huge increase in the number of students who are taking beginning Korean courses over the last five years. She explains that many students decide to take Korean because they watch Korean dramas and are “completely engulfed in K-pop.” Now at least half, if not three-fourths, of her beginning Korean students take the class because they love Korean dramas and K-pop. This cultural and linguistic phenomenon is occurring beyond college campuses. According to Dr. Anderson, fans also take Korean language classes through Korean cultural centers and on the Internet. Carol Maynes’s 14-year-old daughter, Melanie, started taking Korean lessons because she wanted to learn more about the culture she saw in the dramas and to learn the language, which she describes as “really pretty.” She is planning a trip to Korea with her friend after high school graduation and would like to eventually teach English in Korea. Christina Hall regrets not having time to learn Korean, but her younger sister—whom Hall introduced to Korean dramas—is “dead set on learning Korean.” Hall would love to visit Korea; she jokingly mentions that she might need someone to hold up subtitles, though, so she could understand what everyone is saying. Fans included in research conducted by the Kpop Kollective express similar interest in traveling to Korea. Although Korean culture may seem alien at first, you shouldn’t dismiss Korean dramas and K-pop before giving them a fair chance. Who knows? Maybe you’ll be in a beginning Korean class next year. ▶▶

kpopkollective.com

—Catherine Billings Top: PSY dances at a press conference held in Seoul, Korea. Bottom: Male group Big Bang performs for 14,000 fans during their Big Show concert.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 61

Dancers at Sea Backstage with Cruise Performers Melissa was dancing the routine she had been performing every night for eight months. She knew the moves perfectly. She sang her solo flawlessly, the words coming naturally to her memory. But suddenly, the floor moved beneath her. Despite the interruption, Melissa kept right in step. As a performer on a small cruise ship, she knows that a level stage is not guaranteed. Melissa Hoffman and her husband, Ivan, worked as performers on the Silver Wind, a small cruise ship hosting 300 guests at a time. The couple had graduated from Brigham Young University (BYU), each with a Bachelor of Fine Arts (BFA) in Music Dance Theatre. After graduation, they sent audition videos to Choozi Entertainment to be considered for

62 ▶ winter 2014

positions as performers with the cruise line Silversea. Once cast, they rehearsed on land for three weeks before embarking on their eightmonth journey. That’s when they learned how to modify dance routines if the ship became unsteady. “Most of our choreography was simple so it could be done in high seas,” says Melissa. When the weather was especially difficult, the performers would revert to modified dance steps

or bring out stools to sit on while singing. In addition to being trained as dancers for the unsteady seas, Melissa and Ivan also went through extensive training to double as crewmembers. “The beginning of our contract was a lot busier,” says Melissa, “because we had meetings with the safety staff or with our crew’s personnel to be trained.” Not only did Melissa and Ivan help direct guests in first-day safety drills, but they were also asked to socialize with the guests after their shows and to attend parties and events on the ships. “We would become friends with the guests and make sure they were having a good time,” says Melissa. In other words, Melissa and Ivan were considered social staff. Since performers on cruise ships generally work at night, they are often allowed to behave as guests during the day. Kate Bailey, another graduate

culture

Opposite page: photo by Cypress Pictures; this page: photography by Kate Bailey

Kate Bailey takes center stage in Saturday Night Fever.

of BYU’s BFA program, performed with the Royal Caribbean cruise line in 2012. Like the Hoffmans, she was able to get off at the ports and go sightseeing or escape to the beach. But Bailey had an extra advantage. While Melissa and Ivan had to remain in uniform whenever on the ship, Bailey could disappear and become a true guest during the day. “I could wander around the ship as much as I wanted. But you find that you don’t want to go out in the guest areas as often once you’ve been on the ship for a while because you get tired of being around crowds,” Bailey explains. “I was lucky, though. I wore wigs in all my shows, so no one ever recognized me. I could walk around the ship freely.” Bailey performed in the show with Royal Caribbean for seven-and-a-half months. “I was living on the same ship the whole time,” she says. “There were no breaks to see family. Not even for Christmas.” Some might ask if living and working at sea is worth the sacrifice

and effort. For Kate Bailey and the Hoffmans, it most definitely is. They found that despite the lengthy employment contract and the distance from family and friends, working on cruise ships has its advantages. While all contracts are different, living accommodations and unlimited meals are usually included in crewmember contracts, so performers are able to save most of the money they earn. And even though Melissa and Ivan lived in a small room for eight months, they were grateful for the opportunity to travel. “The ship took us to places I never thought we’d be able to go,” Melissa says. “We traveled to 33 different countries.” If you want to be paid to travel and save most of that money, consider auditioning to perform on a cruise ship. Melissa and Ivan just might see you there; they plan to perform on many more cruises to come.

—Alannah Autrey Cruise performers often have to adjust their dance steps while on rocky seas.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 63

Dim Sum Get Some!

dishes, usually in the form of steamed dough or noodles filled with meats or seafood—are hiding, still steaming in their baskets. In Cantonese, dim sum literally means “point of the heart,” referring to the fact that the small sizes of the individual portions are enough to simply touch the heart, not entirely fill the stomach. First served hundreds of years ago in teahouses to travelers on the Silk Road, dim sum is still traditionally served with tea. In fact, the Cantonese way to say “go out to eat dim sum” is yum cha, or “drink tea.” But dim sum is not just for tea aficionados, nor is it just for Silk Road

travelers. Today, dim sum is served in restaurants all over the world and holds a distinct place in Chinese culture. For a Chinese family, outings to eat dim sum can be a weekly or biweekly tradition. But even so, most don’t mind an extra excuse to go out for dim sum on a special occasion. Dim sum has become so widespread that it has wriggled its way into pop culture, showing up in the blockbuster movie Sleepless in Seattle and appearing in pop music and TV shows. After all this hype, you’ve found your way into an authentic dim sum restaurant. Your first step in making yourself at home is to be

Though your first dim sum outing may be intimidating, servers are happy to answer any questions.

64 ▶ winter 2014

Photo by David Ingram

Rich, savory smells of slow-cooking meats waft to meet your nose at the restaurant’s door. The smell seems as foreign as the waving golden cat that keeps guard from atop the front counter. Rows of tanks filled with live fish and crawling lobsters decorate the entryway. Young servers hurriedly wheel metal carts, piled with bamboo baskets, around the restaurant floor, their harsh Chinese orders clashing with the loud conversations rising from the full 8- and 12-person tables. Beneath those bamboo lids, plates full of dim sum—various Chinese dumplings and other bite-sized

culture

Photography by Ewan Munro, except as noted; bottom right: photo by Wikimedia Commons user Alpha

Dim Sum is best enjoyed by a group so that you can split the cost, try a wider variety of foods, and enjoy others’ company.

proactive—going for dim sum is all about having it your way. If you aren’t seated and served immediately, servers respond well to direct requests: for a table, for drinks, or for food. In fact, you probably won’t see a menu placed at your table for you, but don’t let this concern you. Instead, the servers bring all the options out directly to your table on rolling metal carts straight from the kitchen. There’s no waiting for your order to be prepared here. As soon as you see your favorite dumplings wheeled to your table, just point to them and the server will place a plate of the steaming buns right in front of you, offering to cut large dumplings or other dishes into smaller pieces to facilitate sharing among a group. If you’re not sure what’s inside one of the dumplings, don’t worry—just point and ask. And if all else fails, try it anyway. This “see, point, and eat” technique makes paying remarkably streamlined. Every time your server gives you a plate, you get a stamp on your bill in the appropriate category (small plate, medium plate, large plate, or special dish). When your stomach is full and you’re ready to go, the server will total up the stamps on the bill and calculate your total cost. A typical filling meal in a United States dim sum restaurant (usually 4–8 dumplings or items per person) can cost anywhere from $6 to $30 per person. Since dim sum is typically a social outing, it’s best to increase variety and decrease cost by splitting the bill with a group of friends. With a variety of fillings that are savory and sweet, exotic and familiar, dim sum can satisfy any palate. Let those rich smells be your guide as you point your way through your first—or ninety-first—trip to eat dim sum.

Dim Sum for Dummies Do I have to know Chinese? No. Most servers speak English, and if they don’t, a simple hand motion in the direction of the food you want will suffice. What if my mouth is full when I want to say “thanks”? Join the crowd! Audibly tapping your finger on the table is the polite way to say “thanks.” One finger means you’re single, two fingers means you’re married. WHAT did they just say? Don’t be offended by this easily mistaken word—the Mandarin word for “that” (as in “is that plate the one you want?”) is pronounced “NAH-guh.” Do I eat with my hands? Some types of dim sum are easiest to eat with your fingers, but chopsticks are the standard utensils. If you would feel more comfortable with a fork, you can usually request one. What is the best time to yum cha—go out for dim sum? Dim sum is typically served for late breakfast or early lunch. Don’t go before 8 or 9 am, but if you go later than noon or 1 pm, you risk missing the best dishes. Where can I find a dim sum restaurant? Your best bet is in a big city—New York, San Francisco, Seattle. But it never hurts to Google it in your hometown. ▶▶

buzzfeed.com/luckypeach/ the-essential-guide-to-dim-sum

▶▶

youtube.com/watch?v=ZVGZ8-nJR44

—Debbie Adams

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 65

Get the Inside Scoop on Savory Ice Cream Flavors

Salt &Straw When California resident Chuck Samonsky decided to try Salt & Straw, a small-batch, handmade ice cream shop in Portland, Oregon, he got a little more than he bargained for—but in a good way.

“Close your eyes and imagine holding in your hand a very large waffle cone, still warm off the griddle and yummier than anything you have ever experienced, filled with Almond Brittle with Salted Ganache ice cream,” Samonsky says. “Lap up the melting edges of ice cream and start to slowly devour the immense one-scooper inside the waffle. Then, seemingly instantly, it’s gone.”

New Twists on Ice Cream

Salt & Straw owner and founder, Kim Malek, and her partner, head ice cream maker and cousin Tyler Malek, have taken ice cream to the next level. The pair reports that they forgo traditional, everyday flavors, instead “featuring the best ingredients and artisan products that Oregon has to offer, partnering with local farmers and artisans—such as beer brewers, coffee roasters, chocolate makers, and even local chefs.” For Salt & Straw, it is especially important to be a supportive “farmto-cone” ice cream shop. But on top of all that, Kim and her partner want

to create new, exciting, and savory ice cream flavors for everyone to enjoy. That means your everyday vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry have been transformed into Double Fold Singing Dog Vanilla, Freckled Woodblock Choc olate, and Honey Balsamic Strawberry with Cracked Pepper. Some flavors don’t stem from anything remotely traditional, such as Arbequina Olive Oil, Sweet Pepper Jam and Goat Cheese, or Cheddar Apple Pie. For eager tasters who are looking for something sweet, there are options like Sea Salt Ice Cream with Caramel Ribbon and Chocolate with Gooey Brownies. But if you’re ready for something completely new, try Loaded Baked Potato, Pear with Blue Cheese, or a more recent addition after a collaboration with Chef Jenn Louis: Mint Leaves with Sea Urchins Meringues. Yes, sea urchin. And that’s just a taste of their fun flavor combinations. “At first glance, this seems like a crazy flavor, but it’s actually just a reflection of Jenn’s use of fresh local sea food and other ingredients in her kitchen,” Kim says. “People love to try things they didn’t realize would taste so good and learn about new ingredients and local artisans.”

culture

What’s in a Name?

Photography by Leela Cyd

Where did Salt & Straw get its unusual name? According to Kim, it’s a nod to the way ice cream used to be made. “First, sweet cream was handchurned in a chamber chilled by ice and rock salt. Then the ice cream was packed in layers of insulating hay, or straw, and was allowed to harden in a cool place, such as in the underground cellar or out in the barn. Since we make all of our ice cream by hand in small batches, we like to pay homage to this old-school art of making ice cream—through our name!”

Recipe for Success

What started off as a little pushcart has since expanded into three Portland locations. This excitement over unexpected flavor combinations seems to be one key for Salt & Straw’s success. Along with their innovative flavors comes a very specific process of making the ice cream. As outlined on the Salt & Straw website, their chefs use all natural cream from Eugene, Oregon, handmake the tasty treat in small batches, “pack it” with a creamy base of 17% butterfat (nearly the highest possible), and “keep the sweetness level low to let the flavors shine through.”

“I have a less-than-stellar history of spiritual beliefs,” Samonsky jokes. “No longer. I have died and gone to heaven, or at least found a way to die and go to heaven. Put Salt & Straw on your bucket list, and you may kick the bucket sooner and be a much happier person for it!” Even with all that Portland has to offer, this shop alone will make any trip there worth your time. Plus, by the time you make it there, who knows what new wacky flavors these two will have come up with? ▶▶

saltandstraw.com

—Kate Sullivan

Top left: Partners (and cousins) Tyler and Kim Malek want to create great ice cream while supporting and building a strong local community. Top right: Salt & Straw ice cream is handmade in small batches using only all-natural, local, and organic ingredients. Bottom: A sampling of the many Salt & Straw ice cream flavors.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 67 61

Four Corners of the Kitchen

Avocado

Chimichurri Avocado Toasts

Avocado Chocolate Mousse

Chimichurri is a fresh and delicious Argentine sauce made from herbs, garlic, and tangy juices and traditionally served with grilled meat. This recipe for Chimichurri Avocado Toasts incorporates the usual (or traditional) citrusy and flavorful ingredients with creamy avocado, grown for centuries on Argentine soil. Serve over warm, crusty bread for a truly unique and exquisite combination.

Chocolate mousse is an indulgent dessert that is enjoyed in many different parts of the world because of its velvety and luscious texture. This chocolate mousse is made even more decadent—and perhaps even a bit healthy—with the addition of the ripe California avocado.

Argentina

Ingredients

2 tbsp fresh lemon juice ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp dried oregano pinch of salt, red pepper flakes

Directions 1.

freshly ground black pepper 2 ripe avocados, cubed ¼ cup cilantro, chopped ¼ cup parsley, chopped 4–5 slices ciabatta bread, toasted

In a medium bowl, combine the lemon juice, vinegar, olive oil, garlic, oregano, salt, red pepper flakes, and ground pepper. Whisk to incorporate well. Add the avocado cubes and mix gently. Add the chopped cilantro and parsley. Spoon onto toasted ciabatta bread and get ready to love your life.

Yield: 2–4 servings Total time: 10 minutes

68 ▶ winter 2014

United States

Ingredients

1 ripe avocado, halved ½ cup cocoa powder 1 tbsp vanilla

½ cup agave nectar ¼ cup coconut milk ¼ cup strawberries, sliced

Directions 1. 2.

Scoop out the meat of the ripe avocado, slice it into several medium-sized pieces, and put it into a food processor. Add the cocoa powder, vanilla, agave nectar, and coconut milk and blend on high for about 30 seconds. The mousse should be thick and creamy. Refrigerate for one hour. Serve chilled with sliced fresh strawberries on top.

Yield: 2 servings Total time: 5 minutes, plus 1 hour to chill

The avocado is a tree-grown food loved by people the world over. Even the ancient Egyptians loved avocado, applying it daily to their hair to keep their locks healthy and shiny. The avocado is also called the Alligator Pear because of its bumpy green skin. Did you also know that this creamy food is actually a fruit, high in nutrients, and incredibly versatile? These recipes will give you a taste for just some of the ways that the avocado is enjoyed in different parts of the world. —Caitlin Metzger

Avocado Vichyssoise From left: photography by flickr users mealmakeovermoms and adwriter, and by Jared Park and Jamison Metzger

France

The French love using avocado in a variety of ways: on a baguette, in a salad, or even as an ingredient in medicine. Vichyssoise (vish-ee-SWAHZ), a thick, velvety soup of French origin, becomes even more creamy and luscious with the integration of the avocado. This soup is often served cold. But when it is served hot, it will warm you up head to toe and leave you feeling like royalty.

Ingredients

3 cups vegetable or chicken stock 3 leeks, white part only, thinly sliced 2 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

Directions 1.

Italy

Italians have long known the benefits and uses of the avocado. Pesto is also a long-time Italian favorite because of its fresh, crisp flavor. This recipe gets a creamy new look with the rich, buttery avocado. One taste of this delectable twist of a classic will have you saying delizioso!

Ingredients 1 cup heavy cream salt and pepper to taste 2 avocados mashed chives or cilantro, chopped, as garnish

In a medium saucepan, heat stock with leeks and potatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and then simmer about 20 minutes, or until tender. Purée this mix in a blender and then return to saucepan. Stir in the heavy cream. Puree the avocado in a blender and, if serving hot, stir into the soup just before serving. If serving cold, allow the soup to cool before stirring in avocado purée, and then refrigerate. Garnish with chopped chives or cilantro.

Yield: 4–6 servings Total time: 30 minutes

Avocado and Arugula Pesto Linguine

1 pound linguine pasta 2 medium avocados, halved 3 cups baby arugula leaves 1 cup fresh basil 3 tbsp fresh lime juice 2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese ½ cup sliced almonds, toasted

Directions 1.

Bring to boil a large pot of water. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally for about 8 to 10 minutes, or until the pasta is tender but still slightly firm. Drain pasta, reserving about 1 cup of the pasta water. Place pasta in a serving bowl. Scoop out the meat of the avocado and place in a food processor or blender. Add the arugula, basil, lime juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Blend until smooth to make the pesto sauce. Pour the pesto over the pasta and toss together. Add the toasted almonds and Parmesan and toss gently until coated. Add small amounts of the pasta water, as needed, to moisten the sauce to your desired thickness.

Yield: 4–6 servings Total time: 15–20 minutes

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 69

CLEAR INFORMED ACCURATE

STUDENTS, INTERESTED IN A CAREER IN GOVERNMENT OR SECURITY? INTERESTED IN BUILDING YOUR RÉSUMÉ THROUGH TRAINING AND

70 ▶ summer 2013

PUBLISHING ANALYSES?

VISIT US AT

PRAEMON.ORG, OR EMAIL US AT PRAEMON.ORG@GMAIL.COM.

Field Notes Photo by Richard Munckton

The bones of more than six million people fill the underground tunnels and caverns of Paris’s catacombs, located deep below the bustling city above.

Landes Holbrook: Travel Advice from a Security Expert

Beneath the City of Light: Exploring Paris’s Catacombs

Creating Enterprise, Creating Hope

Gaining Global Perspective through Nursing

The Appian Way: Journey through Italy’s Heel

Tales from the Trip

Photo Contest Winners

If you’ve ever felt apprehensive about traveling abroad, fear no more. Through his professional and personal experience, Landes Holbrook tells us how to be smart and safe travelers.

Discover beauty in the macabre as you venture into the eerie underground of Paris’s catacombs.

In countries where there are no jobs, the Academy for Creating Enterprise teaches students in poverty how to make something out of nothing and create their own businesses.

Follow three nurses around the world as they learn the importance of a global perspective.

Trace the route of one of the oldest roads in the world.

Hear travel stories from Stowaway readers.

Take a look at Stowaway readers’ best photos from near and far.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 71

Landes Holbrook Travel Advice from a Security Expert

If you’ve ever wondered how safe it might be to travel to another country, Landes Holbrook knows the answer. Holbrook is the international security analyst at Brigham Young University (BYU) in Provo, Utah, and also has extensive experience doing security analysis for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Stowaway caught up with Holbrook recently and asked him about his analysis process, personal experiences, and helpful tips on how to be prepared for travel abroad.

How do you determine the safety level of an area?

What have you learned from personal travel experiences?

There is a certain science and methodology to it, yet it is important to take in the human and cultural aspects as well. I learned this years ago when I was in Haiti. I met with several nuns, media disc jockeys, people who work on the street, the consulate general of the US embassy, a ministry officer, a political officer, and the head of the Mennonite church in Haiti—in addition to all the online resources. Sometimes the street people are the best resources. When I was in Cuernavaca, Mexico, I met with a gentleman named Emilio Flores. He sits outside the gates of a cathedral and watches a lot of what happens. He knows a lot of the bad guys on the street. He knows what crimes happen. He knows everything.

I studied abroad in Mexico twice as an undergrad student. The first time I went, I was a bit bold: I bought a $50 one-way ticket to Tucson, Arizona, and then crossed the border and jumped on a bus to Mexico City for two and a half days. I didn’t have a place to live, so when I got there, I enrolled myself in the university and found an apartment and stayed there for a couple of semesters. This experience changed my life.

Through good analysis and training, we have actually thwarted a number of potentially hairy situations. I hear stories from students and faculty who have learned the local risk and key strategies to deal with these kinds of situations. They tell me about close calls and attribute their safety to having put successful strategies into practice immediately. Natural disasters are the most unpredictable and potentially problematic events. Although rare, they are hard to plan for. A group of BYU students was caught in the 2009 earthquake in Chengdu, China. Thankfully, no one was injured. The university had good local contacts and worked closely with the US embassy and consulate. And the leaders were well prepared and knew what to do in a crisis situation—this is key. The outcome was positive, even though the experience was frightening.

72 ▶ winter 2014

Landes Holbrook visits an LDS temple in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.

Photo by Ravi S. Ghosh

How has security analysis helped in an emergency?

field notes

Before I left, my mom sewed a pouch with a zipper on top for me to keep my passport and cash in. I could tie the pouch around my waist underneath my pants. When I got to Mexico City, I went to the university and paid my tuition. I had my extra money in this pouch underneath my pants, but I also had a wallet. In my wallet, I had my driver’s license and $50 that I didn’t put in my little pouch. When I got on the bus, some college kids got on the bus as well. One of the guys said he dropped his bus pass, so he got underneath the seat and was climbing around trying to find his bus pass. He was pushing up against my leg, and pretty soon I was leaning to the side, trying to help him get his bus pass. At that moment, somebody from his group pickpocketed me and stole my wallet. And so I learned: you have to be vigilant not to be a victim of crime. That was something I learned years ago, and since then I’ve never been robbed.

How can our readers better prepare for travel? The more you learn about the culture, the people, and the language, the safer you will be. What I mean by culture is not just the stuff that is above the surface, like art, dress, and food. More importantly, I mean the vast culture that lies below the surface of the iceberg, such as traditions, religious beliefs and practices, family values, and routine behaviors. Try to reduce feelings of ethnocentrism: don’t think that your culture is the best. Do a lot of listening instead of talking, at least in the beginning.

Don’t transfer your routines and culture directly to the new culture without some thought and adjustments. For example, just because you go out jogging at 11 pm alone each night, don’t assume you can safely do this in a new location. Understand the specific cultural norms and safety risks; then act accordingly. Finally, be realistic about security. Learn about specific risks. This varies, sometimes greatly, by location, time of day, activities, and choices. Once you learn the specific risks, understand what strategies you can put into place to avoid becoming a victim—like not displaying wealth, for example. Maybe in the location where you’re traveling, you have to leave your credit cards and money locked away at your residence and put your money in your shoes when riding the subway. Maybe you should not make eye contact with anyone or smile at people you do not know. Maybe you should not stay out past 10 pm or ever be alone. Or maybe you should use ATM machines only during business hours in bank lobbies, or fully cover your arms and legs and consider a headscarf before going out in public. We automatically become safer when we are realistic about the risks. We understand that we are not above them—that they apply to us as well. And we put those routines into place to reduce the likelihood and impact of the specific risk on our own personal safety.

—Alex Simmons

Photo by Adam Jones

Photo Caption

Members of BYU’s Contemporary Dance Theatre ensemble enjoy the view from the cliffs of Cabo Rojo, Puerto Rico.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 73

Many tourists who fill the bustling streets of Paris do not realize that there is a twisting network of tunnels and caverns deep beneath their feet— and that it is lined with the bones of the dead. These tunnels and caverns are part of the eerie underground world of Paris’s catacombs, which continue for miles on end. More than six million Parisians—nearly three times the population living in the city above—have found their final resting place here. Although Paris’s catacombs often go unseen by the typical tourist, they are a must-see for adventure-seekers and history buffs.

Beneath the City of Light

Exploring Paris’s Catacombs

74 ▶ winter 2014

When strolling along the streets around the Barrière d’Enfer, Paris’s former city gate, there is nothing particularly unusual to catch your eye— except perhaps the long line of people waiting to enter a small black building. This line marks the entrance to Paris’s catacombs. Once inside this small building, you go down a narrow spiral staircase nearly 50 feet underground. Gone are the sounds of the street. The only sound now is the occasional drip, drip of water falling from the damp stone ceiling and the faint echo of whispers and footfalls of other visitors exploring the labyrinth of tunnels. The air smells dank and musty. As you walk the narrow tunnels, a dim light falls on the bones lining the walls. Leg bones are stacked from the floor to the ceiling so that only their uneven ends protrude, and strategically placed skulls accent the wall of bones, seemingly gazing at you as you pass. “Entering the catacombs was like stepping back in time,” says Grant Olsen of Lehi, Utah. “The musty air, low ceilings, and jagged bones all signaled that we’d left the comfort of typical tourist attractions.” But Olsen also explains, “There is a beauty and melancholy to the place that is quite unique. I’ve never seen anything else like it.”

Photo by Hillary Olsen

Enter

field notes

Top: photo by Jean-David Lafontaine; bottom: photo by Vlastimil Juricek

Explore As you walk through the winding tunnels, the bones seem to tell a story. The catacombs of Paris were created as a result of overcrowding in local cemeteries that began as early as the tenth century AD; mass burial grounds were built to hold all of the remains. This was a particularly common practice at the Cimitière des Saints-Innocents (the Holy Innocents’ Cemetery), Paris’s oldest and largest cemetery. The Holy Innocents’ Cemetery was one of the most sought-after burial places and was a large source of revenue for the parish and the church, so the clergy continued to allow burials there, even when its grounds were filled to overflowing. By the seventeenth century, the cemetery was lined on all four sides with charniers, depositories for the bones taken out of mass graves so that the graves could be used again. The Holy Innocents’ Cemetery was closed in 1780, and in 1786 the government decided to make Paris’s abandoned underground stone quarries the final interment site for this cemetery’s dead. Later they decided that these quarries would receive the old bones from all of Paris’s cemeteries, which were also overcrowded. Once the site had been blessed and consecrated by religious authorities, the work of transporting the remains began. The bones were loaded onto carts by night, covered with a black veil, and hauled to the quarries. Priests accompanied this reverent procession of carts each night for the two years it took to transfer all of the bones to the underground caverns. Initially, the underground quarries served simply as repositories for the bones, but in 1810, renovation efforts transformed the underground caverns into an expansive underground crypt. Skulls and femurs now mark the passageways, sometimes forming decorative shapes like hearts or crosses. To complement the

solemn array of bones, workers even included some of the tombstones that remained from the cemeteries.

Discover Although slightly macabre, Paris’s catacombs represent a unique and strangely beautiful aspect of Parisian culture. Diana Hoppe, an avid world traveler from Los Angeles, says, “I have been a lot of places, but the catacombs in Paris definitely stand out! It was something that you would expect to find creepy, but there was a surprising feeling of reverence in the tunnels.” In a uniquely beautiful way, the catacombs are a monument to Paris’s past that beckons to people from around the globe. Juliette Fosset, a Paris native, visited the catacombs as a little girl and remembers them as both “scary” and “impressive.” She says that the catacombs have a mysterious appeal and that it isn’t until you have visited them that you realize “how much the catacombs are still alive.” As you walk through the twisting corridors, the bones seem to whisper the secrets, stories, and aspirations of the people who walked, worked, loved, and toiled in eighteenthcentury Paris. Nobility and rank have dissipated, and the bones of bygone French nobles now rest alongside those of revolutionaries and peasants in a nameless, rankless array. Once you emerge from this underground adventure and step blinking into the sunlight, you will look at Paris differently—not necessarily through rose-colored glasses but with a greater sense of appreciation for the men and women responsible for building the Paris we love today. ▶▶

catacombes.paris.fr/en

—Hillary Olsen

Previous page: The skulls of bygone artists, nobles, and peasants now rest in a nameless array and gaze at passing visitors. Top: A spiral staircase leads down into the catacombs. Bottom: A headstone set into a wall complements the array of bones and skulls behind it.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 75

Creating Enterprise Creating Hope

In 2012, 22-year-old Moroni Jesus Ramos Olague lived on the streets of Mexico City. His head was filled with dreams of one day studying in the United States. He was a skilled young man—he had graduated from high school at age 17 and had completed a course on computers and networking. But now he was playing a small plastic recorder on the streets to pick up an extra peso to pay for the bare necessities. He had moved away from his parents and two younger siblings in northern Mexico to carve out his own future, but now he had nothing. Ramos’s story is not unique. All over the world, skilled college graduates can’t find work. In Mexico City, only one out of ten individuals who begin college typically lands a job in his or her field of study. The average monthly salary of college graduates in Mexico City is US$700—not enough to survive on. About 30% of the taxi drivers have college educations.1 So how do they get by? The answer is simple: jobless people all over the world are forced to make something out of nothing—to find anything they have and sell it to anyone who will buy it. Many around the world, including Ramos in Mexico, become what is known as necessity entrepreneurs and have little choice but to sell trinkets— candy, cell phone plans, credit cards— to tourists in the street to support themselves or to help support their families. Single mothers desperately try to feed their children by using money they earn from selling baked goods or handmade wares on the street—even though every neighbor on the street is selling the same thing. In a short matter of time, a majority of these necessity entrepreneurs will watch their businesses flop, leaving them worse off than when they started.

76 ▶ winter 2014

The Solution: A Business Education

Fortunately, when Ramos was at his lowest point, he heard about the Academy for Creating Enterprise. A nonprofit organization, the Academy provides necessity entrepreneurs with an intense entrepreneurship and business management education. Funded by the Called2Serve Foundation and private donors, it operates in Mexico, the Philippines, Brazil, Zimbabwe, Peru, and other countries. The majority of teachers and staff are locals as well as volunteer interns traveling from Brigham Young University (BYU) in Provo, Utah. The Academy is one of just three organizations in the world that provides this type of education to necessity entrepreneurs, according to Dr. Jeremi Brewer, a researcher in the field of microenterprise. In addition to leading research as part of the global Microenterprise Education Initiative (MEI), a research initiative based out of BYU, Brewer also works directly with Academy interns and students. Many other organizations are willing to make loans to necessity entrepreneurs without providing the education necessary to use the loan

money effectively. But the Academy and MEI teach basic “rules of thumb” to help people learn to use their loan money efficiently. These principles are basic—students are encouraged to keep records, to separate their business and personal accounts, and to not lend money to family and friends. But the impact of these basic principles can be life-changing.

After graduating from the Academy for Creating Enterprise, Moroni Jesus Ramos Olague decided to remain in Mexico City, where he manages an Internet café.

Photo by Allyson Robison

The Problem

The Impact: The Value of a Bag of Air

Photo by Craig Earnshaw

In September 2012, Ramos took part in the Academy’s five-week microenterprise boot camp. He asked friends and neighbors to help him raise funds to attend the school, which requires each student to pay at least a portion of tuition and room and board costs, though the majority of operating costs are covered by donors and sponsors. There he learned the skills and gained the confidence he needed to trade a bag of air for 50% ownership of an Internet café, which he currently manages. Ramos is now self-reliant. How did he transform a bag of air into ownership of an Internet café? On the second day of boot camp,

“

field notes

My situation in life wouldn’t have been possible without the Academy.

each team of students received a bag, literally full of nothing but air, with instructions to go out into the city and return in five hours with 500 pesos (about US$50). Ramos’s first thought was, “How am I going to exchange this?” But, trade by trade, his team began receiving objects of greater and greater value: first, a bag of rice in return for the bag of air; next, candy; then, a bag of chips; then, cookies; then, a sweater. By the end of the five hours, his team walked back into class with 254 pesos.

”

The trading activity opened Ramos’s eyes to a new world of opportunity. If he could start with nothing and obtain 254 pesos, why stop there? He kept trading and eventually earned 2,700 pesos (about US$210), enough to pay for rent for an apartment in Mexico City after graduating from the Academy. During the boot camp, Ramos heard from an Academy employee that someone in the area owned an Internet café and needed someone skilled in computers to partner with

An Academy student in Brazil receives help on his business register from two Academy interns. This student runs a business sewing and selling gloves for bikers and motorcyclists.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 77

him. It was a perfect match. With the earnings he had made from his trades and a promise to put his computer skills to work, Ramos signed a contract securing him 50–50 ownership in the Internet café. “My situation in life wouldn’t have been possible without the Academy. The Academy changed my point of view about self-reliance and about business,” says Ramos. “I remember when they talked to us about self-reliance. They told us that the minimum is being self-reliant. The maximum is being wealthy.” Dr. Brewer sheds a little more light on the Academy’s trading activity, explaining that “most individuals in emerging markets flock toward loan officers to get the capital they ‘need’ to start their businesses. Sadly, most of these individuals are not trained in how to actually put that capital to best use in a small business. Consequently, they find themselves trapped by debts they can’t afford to pay off.” Brewer continues, “I am not antiborrowing; I simply wanted to demonstrate that education—and I mean a specific education for business management—must play a vital role in the lending process.” Since 2008, Dr. Brewer has tracked the nearly 2,000 graduates of the Academy in Mexico. Participants have accumulatively transformed objects of no inherent value (e.g.

rocks, blades of grass, leaves, bags of air, etc.) into US$628,000.

Where This Is Going

Ramos’s success story is not unique to him. In fact, nearly 6,000 Academy alumni and MEI participants around the world have experienced similar transformations, now enjoying bright opportunities for their future. MEI has long-term goals, too—one of which is to train as many coaches as possible and connect them with necessity entrepreneurs such as Ramos in a growing list of countries including Zimbabwe, Peru, Brazil, the Philippines, Mexico, and the United States. As the entrepreneurs learn and apply the principles they are taught, they share their ideas with their communities, spreading the education and vision for a future full of opportunity. For Ramos, success started with a bag of air. For countless necessity entrepreneurs yet to be found, success can start with a traveler who takes the time to get to know them, to listen to their stories, and to share the hope of self-reliance. ▶▶

marriottschool.byu.edu/selfreliance/ microenterprise/about

▶▶

stoprmpoverty.com

1. Statistics courtesy of Jeremi Brewer.

—Debbie Adams

25 Rules of Thumb What are students like Ramos learning that changes their lives so drastically? Below are a few of the basic “rules of thumb” taught at the Academy for Creating Enterprise: 1. Sell What the Market Will Buy 2. Practice Separate Entities 3. Start Small, Think Big 4. Be Nice Later 5. Keep Good Records 6. Pay Yourself a Livable Salary 7. Buy Low, Sell High 8. Don’t Eat Your Inventory 9. Use Multiple Suppliers 10. Buy on Credit, Sell for Cash 11. Purchase in Bulk 12. Use Suggestive Selling 13. Increase Sales, Decrease Costs 14. Turn Your Inventory Often 15. Value Your Customers 16. Differentiate Your Business 17. Hire Slow, Fire Fast 18. Inspect More, Expect Less 19. Have Written Agreements with Partners, Suppliers, Landlords, and Employees 20. Work on Your Business 10 Hours a Day, Five and a Half

Improvement) 22. Make Profit Every Day

23. Work on Your Business, Not Just in Your Business

24. Write Daily/Weekly Business Goals 25. Focus, Focus, Focus ▶▶

stoprmpoverty.com/ our-curriculum

Students celebrate their success outside the Academy for Creating Enterprise in Mexico.

78 ▶ winter 2014

Photo courtesy of the Academy for Creating Enterprise

Days a Week 21. Practice Kaizen (Continual

field notes

Gaining Global Perspective through Nursing

Ghana. Ecuador. India. These are three of ten sites across five continents where university students from the United States are traveling to administer vaccines, conduct anemia research, and assist people who are afflicted with leprosy. In the process, they are becoming better nurses. Every year, groups of senior nursing students from Brigham Young University (BYU) take time away from the classroom and step outside their comfort zones to participate in intensive global health courses. Follow three of these students around the world and learn how global travel has transformed each one into a more compassionate nurse.

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 79

Abomosu, Ghana

“There’s a very different healthcare system in Ghana than in the United States,” says nursing student Sarah Leggett of Wilmington, North Carolina. Students in Ghana see two very different systems within one country. They spend half their time in the capital city of Accra, where healthcare is somewhat available, and the other half in the small village of Abomosu, where there is very limited accessibility. Because of this limitation, local nurses in rural villages play a huge role in their communities. They truly watch over the whole village. When it comes time for yearly vaccinations, community nurses will literally stop children on the street to make sure they are taken care of. Their responsibility also extends to spiritual care. “One morning, as we were waiting for the doctor’s office to open, the local nurses began to lead everyone in song and prayer,” says Leggett. “I honestly was a little uncomfortable with it at first.”

In the United States, Leggett isn’t used to sharing her spirituality openly with patients. “It’s easy to worry that someone will be offended,” she explains. “I realized in Ghana, though, that it’s important to pay attention to my patients’ spiritual needs. I can find ways to provide religious support that’s appropriate to the individual.”

Guayaquil, Ecuador

While Leggett learned in Ghana how to share more with others, a nurse in Ecuador learned to value what others have to share. In Ecuador, student nurses have the chance to participate in an ongoing anemia study. Guided by their professors, students collaborate with local nonprofit and government programs to find successful, long-term solutions to children’s anemia. Charity Rowley of Allen, Texas, assists in this research by gathering data and compiling statistics in Guayaquil. Students also travel to several impoverished rural areas outside of

Guayaquil, where they teach workshops to community health professionals. The situation here is similar to the situation in Ghana. “Often in these rural communities, there are no doctors, so the community nurses are relied on to do just about everything, including delivering babies,” Rowley says. Because of this enormous responsibility, Rowley and other nurses held a birthing scenario workshop, where they could collaborate with the local health professionals and offer new ideas. The students also taught teachers how to prepare for emergencies, providing them with peace of mind in case of an accident or a disaster at school. But what really stuck with Rowley—even more than the skills or procedures—was the people. “I was really impressed with their willingness to learn; they were so humble and open to any information we had to offer,” Rowley explains. “I realized it’s important that I’m also willing to learn and accept what other people have to teach me.”

Previous page: Nurses travel to Ghana to provide medical care and assist in community improvement projects. Above: In impoverished areas outside of Guayaquil, Ecuador, nurses teach workshops to local residents and health-care providers.

80 ▶ winter 2014

Not a nurse? If you are not a nurse but still want to get involved, check out the following organizations for opportunities to serve and learn abroad in Ghana, Ecuador, and India.

World Joy World Joy works directly with Ghanaians in the Atiwa district to strengthen health and education initiatives. It focuses on While working in a leprosy colony in India, Katie Holiday discovers that laughter can transcend language and cultural barriers.

sustainable and efficient ways to improve communities. ▶▶

Photography courtesy of BYU College of Nursing, except as noted; photo on page 79 by Barry Thornburg

Tamil Nadu, India

While Rowley had opportunities in Ecuador to teach and to research, students in India went back to the basics, giving wound care to patients in leprosy colonies. Cheryl Corbett, an associate professor at BYU, who annually leads a group to Tamil Nadu, India, explains that leprosy is still a very real and divisive problem in India. “Most people don’t realize that leprosy is a treatable disease,” Corbett says. “In the United States, leprosy is known as Hansen’s disease; there’s no stigma in getting treated.” But in southeastern India, the stigma is very much alive. “Leprosy is seen not only as an illness, but as a curse,” Corbett says. Out of fear, many individuals postpone treatment, leading to permanent nerve damage and even the loss of their extremities. Eventually, they are cast out of their communities and into leprosy colonies. Nursing student Katie Holiday of Poway, California, says she was somewhat uncomfortable at first with the painful chronic wounds she saw in the colonies. Eventually, though, she learned to look beyond the disease and see the person instead. “One day, while we were doing wound care, a lady sat down at my

station and was smiling from ear to ear,” says Holiday. “I told her my name and she started laughing.” In Hindi, the word Katie means naughty, or bad. “No one would believe me that my name was Katie,” explains Holiday. She found that although they couldn’t speak a word of each other’s language, they could still connect. “After I told her my name, we laughed and laughed and laughed,” Holiday says. “We sat there for probably 10 minutes laughing. I couldn’t believe how happy she was in spite of her condition. I realized that I wasn’t just treating a wound, but I was helping a person cope with her illness.” Working in various areas across the globe, these three nurses learned lessons that can’t always be taught in a classroom: to love, to learn, and to laugh. Their willingness to travel and work around the world enabled each of them to gain new, global perspectives that have transformed them into more compassionate nurses who can better serve their patients at home as well. ▶▶

www.worldjoyinc.org.

Hogar de Cristo In addition to helping with anemia research and other public health projects, Hogar de Cristo works with communities in Ecuador to provide bamboo shelters for the poor. ▶▶

www.hogardecristo.org.ec

Rising Star Although medical care is a primary focus of Rising Star, the organization also works within the leprosy colonies of southern India to provide economic rehabilitation through micro grants and education for the children of people afflicted with leprosy. ▶▶

www.risingstaroutreach.org.

nursing.byu.edu

—Rachel Peters

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 81

Built in 312 BC, the Appian Way strategically connects Rome with important port cities situated in the heel of the Italian peninsula. The firstcentury Roman poet Statius called this route the “queen” of all long-distance roads. Its cobblestones wind through the towering umbrella pines of Rome, climb the rocky slopes of the Apennine Mountains, roll with the hills of the Italian countryside, and come to an end at the foot of a tall stone column in Brindisi, Italy, where the salty water of the Adriatic Sea laps at the shores nearby. Although the Appian Way is no longer navigable by car (or chariot), the road is still there, and visitors can retrace its history on foot. Come with us as we trace the route by train and by bus, making stops at some of the most unique and inviting cities along the Appian Way. In Rome, go to Termini train station, catch a train to Bari, and let the journey begin. ▶▶

Bus travel: ibus.it/english/ index_en.htm

▶▶

Train travel: trenitalia.com

Bari, Puglia

The Appian Way Journey through Italy’s Heel

Julius Caesar, the Apostle Paul, Herman Melville, and Mark Twain—what do these men have in common? They all traveled on and were inspired by one of the earliest and most-traveled roads in history: the Appian Way. 82 ▶ winter 2014

Bari (BAH-ree) is the biggest of the cities that you will see on this trip. The beauty of Bari is that “it’s virtually free of tourists,” says Hillary Nasari of Las Vegas, Nevada. As Nasari lived and studied in Italy for two years, she discovered that “the best things in Bari are FOOD!” Prepare your palate for Bari’s wellknown gelato, focaccia (flat, ovenbaked bread), and panzarotti (small calzones made with soft dough and filled with tomatoes and mozzarella). Take time to visit the shopping district Via Sparano to check out the latest in European fashion. Finish off the day by strolling down lungomare (the boardwalk) as you watch the sun set over the bright blue Adriatic Sea. ▶▶

lonelyplanet.com/italy/puglia/bari

Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

267 miles (429 km) southeast of Rome

field notes

Alberobello, Puglia 34 miles (55 km) south of Bari

Alberobello (al-ber-oh-BELL-oh) is a city straight out of a fairytale. Kristina Fidler of Wasilla, Alaska, who lived in Italy for a year, recalls her impressions of Alberobello: “It’s just a little bit of magic in a small town tucked into the hills of southern Italy.” It is most famous for its many Puglian trulli (TRUE-lee), small round dwellings with conical-shaped roofs. Trulli dot the Puglian countryside, but only in Alberobello can you find a city entirely made of trulli. Wander through its quaint streets, explore the many shops run by local artisans, and enjoy a unique piece of Italian culture. ▶▶

lonelyplanet.com/italy/puglia/ alberobello

Ostuni, Puglia

Left and top right: photography by Hillary Olsen; bottom right: photo by Anders Due

20 miles (32 km) south of Alberobello Next, stop in Ostuni (oh-STEW-nee). Located just outside of Brindisi, Ostuni is the southernmost city on the Appian Way. Built out of a series of levels, staircases, alleys, and arches, Ostuni gets its nickname, “The White City,” from the dazzling appearance of its ancient white walls that still surround its whitewashed buildings and houses. Not only does Ostuni boast compelling history and stunning architecture, but it is also located just eight kilometers from the pristine beaches of the Mediterranean coastline. Ostuni itself is an ancient fortress built on top of a hill and is a true masterpiece of Mediterranean architecture. ▶▶

lonelyplanet.com/italy/puglia/ostuni

Taranto, Puglia

36 miles (58 km) west of Ostuni Pasta con le cozze, anyone? The unique location of Taranto (TAH-rahn-toe)

Left: Built in the 15th century, Aragon Castle in Taranto is a famous landmark. Top right: The roof of each of the trulli in Alberobello features a unique design. Bottom right: Taranto offers pasta con le cozze and other specialty dishes.

creates the ideal conditions for cultivating cozze (mussels) and gives the city its nickname, “The City of the Two Seas.” Taranto is situated at the inlet of a bay and consists of natural peninsulas and a man-made island. The island was formed when a channel was made to facilitate ship passage into the bay. While in Taranto, make sure you visit Aragon Castle (a fifteenth-century defense that overlooks the sea), admire the Ponte Girevole (the only bridge in Italy that pivots rather than rises), and tickle your palate with some of Taranto’s tantalizing seafood dishes. ▶▶

lonelyplanet.com/italy/puglia/taranto

Matera, Basilicata 45 miles (72 km) northeast of Taranto

Your last stop is definitely one of the highlights along the Appian Way. Matera (mah-TEH-rah) is an ancient city carved out of the stone slopes of a small canyon. If you ask anyone in the South where you should go, they will tell you to visit the Sassi di Matera (the stones of Matera). Matias

Pedreira of Montevideo, Uruguay, who lived in Italy for two years, says, “As soon as you get to Matera, you feel as if you’ve stepped back in time about 2000 years.” Pedreira is not the only one who thinks so: Mel Gibson picked Matera for the location of the film The Passion of the Christ (2004). In fact, the city does date back to as early as 300 BC. Some of its original, cave-like dwellings can still be seen on the outskirts of the city. Explore the twisting cobblestone streets. Venture into the churches and little shops carved into the rock. Take lots of pictures, and don’t leave Matera without sampling its mouthwatering pastries. ▶▶

lonelyplanet.com/italy/ basilicata/matera

▶▶

worldsiteguides.com/europe/ italy/rome/appian-way

—Hillary Olsen

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Experiential

& Academic

Lea&rning Experiential

Academic

Learning

Most of us learn in more than one way. Experience is one. Academics are another. Experiential learning takes place outside the classroom. Academic learnMost of us learn in more than one way. ing is typically inside the classroom. Experience is one. Academics are another. Experiential learning takes place outside classroom. Academic learnWhy notthe put them together? ing is typically inside the classroom.

With BYU Independent Study online Why not put them together? courses, academics become portable. You can take your coursework with you With BYU Independent Study online courses, academics become portable. firstwherever you go and experience You can your coursework with youabout hand thetake exhilaration of learning wherever you go and experience firstlife in Malaysia, a theatre in London, or hand the exhilaration of learning about backpacking inaNepal. life in Malaysia, theatre in London, or backpacking in Nepal.

Sign up for courses anytime, with up to for courses anytime,them. with up to your a Sign full up year to complete Set a full year to complete them. Set your own deadlines and create your own own deadlines and create your own schedule. Youcan can even atsylthe sylschedule. You even looklook at the labus youenroll enroll so you labus before before you so you knowknow ex- exactlywhat what you bebe doing. actly youwill will doing. Choose learning, any way you want it.

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Windermere as Wordsworth Knew It “Well, are you coming?” my classmates asked from the crowded tour bus. I looked at the bus, then out at the hazy English afternoon and Lake Windermere glistening in the distance. The sun would be setting in about an hour, and it already hung drowsily in the sky. But the bus was about to cart everyone to the charming shops along the shore in town. Then I thought of rich-smelling country walks and stone passageways leading mysteriously off the roadside. “Nah,” I replied. “I think I’ll stay around here.” I watched as the bus pulled away. Then I snatched my journal and pen from the hostel and slipped away to take a short walk on my own. With my jacket around my shoulders, I thought about the poetry of William Wordsworth we’d been reading in

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English class. Wordsworth was a solitary, introspective man, whose poetry was inspired by tranquility he found in nature, especially around Lake Windermere. The thought thrilled me that he had walked the very paths my shoes were now scuffing. I ambled along during twilight under the shady, gray-green cover of trees. I entered each mysterious garden entrance in the stone wall and explored meandering paths for what seemed like miles. I found the tallest tree I could see and, hesitating only a moment, climbed to the top to stretch my view farther. To complete my adventure in the hills, I sat, leaning against an old wooden fence, and filled my journal with thoughts and poetry. That day, I grew to understand Wordsworth as I never had before.

From that time on, I’ve thought a lot about tourism. It’s all in the name—you take tours, you follow. And there’s nothing wrong with that. But my walk that day was a different sort of tourism. Windermere is always beautiful, but when I stepped into the shoes of one of the lake town’s most famous poets, it was awe-inspiring. This experience was an apprenticeship under a master long since gone. Instead of following a tour guide, I was following his shadowy footsteps. That day, Wordsworth’s poetry finally became real for me. They say if you really want to know a man, you walk a mile in his shoes. I did, and that was one mile I would gladly walk again.

—Mary-Celeste Louis Peterson, Utah

field notes

Tear-Gas Ice Cream In the summer of 2007, my family and I were trapped on the thirteenth story of an apartment building in La Paz, Bolivia. In the plaza below, protesters fought with rocks and dynamite salvaged from local mines, while police countered with riot shields, rubber bullets, and tear gas. Sitting high above the plaza, my brothers and sister and I would loft paper airplanes down to the protesters. Sometimes, a disgruntled protester would catch one and glance up, trying to figure out where it came from. Depending on who caught our planes, we would wave or possibly hide. One day, the forces were really going at it, and the tear gas was so thick that we almost couldn’t see the ground. The gas rose and bubbled high enough for our eyes to burn. I couldn’t imagine what it was like on

the ground, but we could hear the yells and muffled screams. We could even pick out the word “Ayuda!” (Help!) and the consistent drone of “HELADO! HELADO!” Hold on—helado? I looked to my brother to confirm we had heard correctly. Ice cream? Sure enough, down in the billowing mist of tear gas, a shriveled old man with a rag over his face pushed his ice cream cart and offered scoops of chocolate, vanilla, and swirl to the mob. Dynamite blasted, and the mob ducked and covered their heads—all except the unflappable ice cream vendor. People crawled along the ground near him, perhaps hoping the gas would be less dense, or maybe because they couldn’t see and thought it would be safer down there. Despite this chaos, one or two people stopped to pick up a frozen

treat, and for that moment, their faces didn’t look like they felt on fire. Up in our apartment, the four of us were crying, though with tears of laughter and not of searing pain. Between our coughs and gasps for air, we managed to repeat the man’s call of “Helado!” We could already tell this would be an inside joke for years to come. When the clouds of gas and the crowds had finally dispersed, the man limped off, pushing his jangling cart and counting the handful of bolivianos he had earned. As I watched him leave, I couldn’t help but want a taste of that tear-gas ice cream.

—Ben Dearden Belmont, Massachusetts

Photo by Wikimedia Commons user Wormholealien

An Empty Space Waking early enough that the salty air felt fresh on our faces and the horizon wasn’t quite a color yet, my uncle and I set out to explore the rocky shore of Oregon. We ran down the wet, darkened sand. I watched as my steps made oblique imprints of my shoes, and I listened to the spurting, sputtering sounds of water expelled from the sand with each step. My legs felt powerful and alive despite the sand’s cushion. When we reached the rocky shore, I caught my breath, hands resting on my head, heaving in time to the sighing waves. As we made our way through a field of gleaming rocks, the sun began to rise just enough to illuminate a large boulder cliff a hundred feet out to sea. Craggy and roughly hewn, the cliff was topped with an unlikely fringe of green. We deemed the

marine cliff our goal and struck out along the shore. As we drew closer, the low tide revealed a narrow, broken sand bridge, which we crossed to reach the cliff’s sharp incline. We scrambled over the decomposed rubble at the base, pausing at the cliff’s sheer midline. But with firm hands we climbed, not considering whether we’d be able to get back down or in how many pieces. Slowly, we inched up, stopping only briefly to view the shoreline. But the final 10 feet stumped and scared me. With my forearms burning and trembling, I frantically searched for holds, finding none. Then, with relief, I noticed that we weren’t the first people to climb this precipice—a chain dangled off to the right from a sturdy tree near the cliff’s edge. We grasped the cool steel links and

climbed with confidence, then pulled ourselves up by the anchor tree’s roots to survey our accomplishment. I looked out to sea and was consumed by its magnitude. Waves made foamy lines, tracing out shapes of the shoreline, and the wind seemed full of impossible exoticism. This was my place, I realized. How long had it been calling me? How long had this space lain empty, waiting for me to fill it?

—Dallin Law Omak, Washington

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photo contest

First Place Roxana I believe that on rare occasions a photograph can capture a little piece of a person’s soul. On a bus ride home while living in Cajamarca, Peru, I heard giggling behind me and turned to meet sweet Roxana. She captivated me with her shy, sweet, and innocent demeanor. —Anna Gleave

Littleton, Colorado

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Second Place Topkapi Palace

I came across this door on my recent visit to the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul and was amazed by its size and architecture. A local resident told me that this used to be a door to the Imperial Treasury. Topkapi is a major tourist attraction and one of the “Historic Areas of Istanbul.” Many parts of the palace are now open to the public, but some secrets behind this door remain locked away.

—Utkarsh Mahajan Chandigarh, India

Third Place Sacre Coeur

While on a study abroad to the UK this past summer, some of us took a weekend trip to Paris. On our first morning there, we woke up early and trekked up to the Sacre Coeur, which sits on a hill overlooking the rest of Paris, to see some of the sites before the streets got too crowded. The sun had just come up over the Sacre Coeur when we finally got there. The sight of it filled me with inspiration and joy.

—Rebecca Hamson Kennewick, Washington

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Thanks for

Thanks for 50 years! 50 years! Our location has been in

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29 East 1230 North Provo 801.377.0031 801.377.0031 29 E 1230 N Provo

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Insider Photo by Anders Finn Jørgensen

You can discover a new world under the sea when you get SCUBA certified.

Road-Trip Rescue

Apt to Travel with Airbnb

SCUBA: Take the Plunge!

Art Journaling: Tips and Tricks

Bring on the road trip! With these items in your car, you’ll be on your way to a safe and memorable vacation.

Navigate your travels better with Airbnb, one of the best travel apps available to help you find unique places to stay around the world.

Start your newest adventure by learning how to get scuba certified.

Not a Picasso? Not to worry. This beginner’s guide will help you create an art journal on your next vacation.

100 Seuss on the Loose: Find the Last Truffula Tree in La Jolla

See La Jolla, California, through the eyes of Dr. Seuss—and get an inside look at the natural images that inspired some of his illustrations.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 93

Road-Trip Rescue Don’t let your next road trip get cut short. Instead, make sure you’re prepared with a few basics that will turn any car-trouble disaster into a mere speed bump. No need to be a professional mechanic or an auto enthusiast. Even if you’re on a student budget, we suggest three things no traveler should leave home without.

—AmberLee Hansen

Fix-a-Flat Aerosol Tire Inflator or Portable Air Compressor Flat tires are one of the most common road trip downers and, despite the best preparations, can be hard to prevent. Still, you can avoid an hours-long hiatus on the side of the road by packing a small air compressor (starting around $15). If air isn’t enough, grab an aerosol can of Fix-a-Flat ($10–$25). Fix-a-Flat fills your tire with air and slime that plugs any holes just long enough to get you to a service station. So don’t head out until you’ve stopped at your local store and purchased yourself a little peace of mind.

For only $57 per year, AAA provides five miles of towing service and unlimited lockout service. Roadside assistance plans with Allstate start at $52 per year. Allstate also has a pay-per-use option that offers free registration and charges only if used. However, if an emergency does arise, expenses start at $50 and increase rapidly, depending on what help is required. Whichever plan you choose and whatever your road trip destination, AAA and Allstate have got you covered. ▶▶

aaa.com

▶▶

allstate.com

DIY Bailout Bag If you do run into an extended hitch in your trip, you’ll be grateful you put together some basic necessities. Here’s what we suggest for a do-it-yourself back-up plan: ▶▶ Duct tape. It might keep your car together long enough to get you to some help. ▶▶ A good knife. A knife like the Smith and Wesson first-responder knife can cut through seat belts, help break windows, and serve as protection when you’re stranded on the side of the road. ▶▶ Flashlight. Give yourself a beam of hope when things start to get dark. ▶▶ Nonperishable food. Canned fruit can be especially handy since it has food and drinkable syrup in one easily stored container. But don’t forget to also bring along a can opener. For a more comprehensive list of things to bring, check out this AAA brochure: newsroom.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/ 2011/08/2011VehicleBreakDown.pdf

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From top to bottom: photo by mkrigsman, photography by AmberLee Hansen, photo by WSDOT; Bailout Bag: photography by George Chernilevsky, Evan-Amos, and Ken Hammond.

AAA Membership or Allstate Motor Club Membership

insider

Apt to Travel with

Is your dream destination a tree house, beach house, cabin, hotel, castle, or tent? From daycations to stay cations, Airbnb (Air, Bed & Breakfast) is a smartphone’s best tool for finding accommodations. This app is free and is available for use online as well. With more than 8,500,000 users and 192 countries to choose from, this easy-to-use app is designed for everyone.

Find a Place to Stay

Type in your destination, check-in and check-out dates, and the number of guests. Then hit Search. Pictures and simple descriptions of places to stay will appear, and each location will also list prices, making it easy for you to find a comfortable and affordable place to stay. ▶▶

airbnb.com

Neighborhood Guides

From Paris to Rio de Janeiro, Bangkok to San Francisco, Airbnb’s Neighborhood Guides provide detailed tours through some of the world’s most visited cities. This section includes pictures taken by photographers who live in each city and includes insights from other locals as well.

Airbnb Picks

For a theme-based vacation, hit Airbnb Picks. For example, glamping (glamour camping)—a new vacation trend among young couples—is one of many categories that Airbnb provides to help you find a unique vacation spot that meets your needs. Other categories include “The Land of Milk and Honeymoons,” “Private Islands,” and “I’m on a Boat.”

Photography courtesy of Airbnb.com

—Tierre Sanford

Above: Airbnb offers in-depth information about seventeen different cities around the globe.

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SCUBA

Take the Plunge!

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Opposite page: photo by Wikimedia Commons user Thomei08; this page: photo by Brocken Inaglory

As my family was preparing for a trip to Hawaii, all my siblings were getting scuba certified. Not me. A veritable homebody, I was terrified to even try. But after weeks of being coerced and cajoled, I grudgingly agreed to get certified too. Being in the beautiful ocean, 80 feet underwater, with remarkable sea life surrounding me, I realized I had never seen or experienced anything so exhilarating before. After this experience, everything began to unfold: I rode roller coasters, took up snowboarding, went skydiving, and studied abroad in Mexico. Like me, you can begin a whole new chapter in your life—or maybe just start your next adventure—by taking the Open Water course. This course leads to Open Water certification, an entry-level, full-diver certification for scuba diving. There are several levels of certification if you wish to pursue this hobby further. After completing the Open Water course, you will be certified to dive to 60-feet whenever you’re accompanied by someone else with Open Water certification or a higher certification level. The Open Water course can be divided into six easy steps.

5 6

Prepare to Pay

It usually costs between $100 and $500 to get certified. The price varies depending on several options: You can prepare for the written test by taking an online or in-classroom course. You can complete the confined and open water dives in private or group lessons. You can buy or rent the gear used during the confined and open water dives.

Learn to Swim

You’ll be asked to swim approximately 200 yards and to tread water for 10 minutes. It may sound difficult, but if you spent your childhood summers casually swimming, you should be fine. You don’t need to have good form; you just need to be able to complete the task.

Meet the Age Requirement

You can get fully certified if you are age 15 or older. Youth can get junior certified between the ages of 10 and 15, depending on the agency.

Pass the Written Test You are required to pass a written test that assesses your knowledge of how to be a safe diver, including what to do in case of an emergency or equipment malfunction and other important diver safety procedures. Don’t stress about it. The test isn’t long. You prepare for the test by taking a class either online or in a classroom.

Complete Dives

After you pass the written test, you’ll need to do at least two confined dives in a pool and two open water dives (usually in the ocean or a lake) with a certified dive instructor.

Get Your Card

When you’ve finished your open water dives, your instructor will either give you your Scuba Open Water Diver Certification card or tell you where to pick it up. Don’t forget this step since you’ll most likely need to show your card when renting or buying scuba gear. Once you have your card, you’re ready to explore the underwater world!

—Lauren Dyas

Opposite page: This diver is discovering new depths near Silfra, Iceland. Above: Try something new: become SCUBA certified and surround yourself with sea life.

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insider

Art Journaling Tips and Tricks

You don’t have to be the next da Vinci or Van Gogh to start an art journal. Art journaling combines writing with sketching and painting and can be a great way to record the memories of a new destination. With a few simple techniques and the right tools, art journaling can become a fun, new way for anyone to explore the depths of their own creativity and to document their travels.

Find a Journal

To ensure that your art journal withstands both the tests of time and your suitcase, you’ll want to consider two factors: First, the paper. Art journals should have heavyweight, acid-free pages. Acid can disintegrate paper and discolor photos over time, especially if the paper is exposed to light or heat,

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ruining your hard work and memories. And heavyweight paper works well with any of the mediums listed below. Second, the binding. Look for an art journal that has a hardcover and a way to keep itself closed. Durability is key when packing your journal for daily excursions. Some journals have an elastic strap attached to the binding that easily snaps tight, securing all the

pages. You may also want to consider using a landscape-bound journal because this style will stay open better as you draw or paint.

Pick a Medium

There are several mediums to consider when creating a travel kit. Before your trip, test out a few materials to see what you’re most comfortable with.

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Pencil: Pencils are great for sketching. You can always erase, so you don’t have to worry about making a mistake. When choosing a pencil, remember that the softer the graphite is, the darker the mark will be. Ink: While ink doesn’t provide the forgiveness of a pencil, it may enable you to commit to what you draw and can provide stronger, more definite lines. Pens are also low mess and low maintenance. Oil Pastel: Oil pastels offer vibrant colors and require less maintenance than oil paints. They are also easy to blend. These pastels are similar in shape and texture to a crayon, but they offer far richer hues and allow for more advanced techniques. Watercolor: While watercolors may be messier than other mediums and require a source of water, the extra effort is often worth it. Watercolors are very forgiving and are a fantastic addition to ink drawings. For less mess, try watercolor pencils, which allow you to draw now and finish with water later.

Illustrations by Richard Parkes Bonington and Samuel Palmer

Pack a Bag

A clear cosmetics bag with a zipper is a simple but effective way to transport your supplies. You can easily throw the bag into your daypack, while keeping your supplies protected from the elements. And it’s easier to find the pen or pencil you want when you can see through the sides of the bag. To ensure nothing is broken en route, pack your bag in your carry-on if possible.

Draw a Memory

Now that you’ve prepared your supplies, it’s time to get creative. While art journaling may sound intimidating at first, the goal is not to replicate like a camera but to capture your memories in a unique way. Focus on the simple shapes and lines of what you see. Draw anything and everything, from the mountain across the lake to the ticket

stub in your pocket. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to make a mistake. Let your creativity be your guide. Move beyond words and photos on your next excursion by preserving your memories of great destinations in ink. ▶▶

artistsjournals.com

—Rachel Peters and Julie Ogborn

Draw anything and everything, from the mountain across the lake to the ticket stub in your pocket. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to make a mistake. Let your creativity be your guide. What Makes a Good Pen? Looking for the perfect pen? Whichever instrument you decide to pack, test it out before your trip to make sure it will get the job done when you’re on the trail. Here are a few of our top picks:

Prismacolor Premier Fine Line Marker 5 Pack Comes with 5 different tip sizes in a handy recloseable case, combining versatility and convenience for novice and expert art journalers alike.

Gelly Roll Pens Gel-ink pens in any color you can imagine make your doodles vibrant and work like mini paintbrushes. They allow you to place opaque ink in paper-thin lines on the page.

Sharpie Fine Point Stylo Pens These no-bleed pens come in several colors of ink and are affordable and longlasting, making them a great option for first-time art journalers.

Prismacolor Premier Double-Ended Art Markers Twice the tip-size options per marker means twice the fun without doubling the space needed in your pack.

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Seuss on the Loose Find the Last Truffula Tree in La Jolla

Beautiful homes line the west cliff face of the beach in La Jolla (luh-HOI-uh), California, located just 14 miles northwest of San Diego. The homes are situated at the perfect angle to see the sun setting over the Pacific Ocean at the end of each day. Slowly, however, this sandstone cliff is crumbling away, and soon the historic home of one of La Jolla’s most famous residents, Dr. Seuss, will likely crash into the ocean below, endangering the very ecosystems and landscape that inspired many of his works. After World War II, Theodor Seuss Geisel (Dr. Seuss) and his wife, Helen, moved to La Jolla, where he began to shift his focus from drawing political cartoons to writing some of his most well-loved children’s stories. When armed with the knowledge of what to look for, visitors to La Jolla can easily see Dr. Seuss’s illustrations around every turn, whether they’re walking along the beachfront or kayaking near the cove’s cliffs and caves. But you need to know what to look for, or you might miss out on these striking connections.

The Cat in the Hat

The Cat in the Hat, published in 1957, features a rather odd-looking orange fish with a high-stress personality who tries to restore order to his home. Dr. Seuss only needed to look out into the bay to see his inspiration—the Garibaldi fish. Though found frequently in La Jolla, this distinctive, bright orange fish is rarely seen in places away from the southern California coast. And the Garibaldi fish is, interestingly enough, an aggressive defender of its natural territory.

Norval the fish in The Cat in the Hat bears a striking resemblance to the Garibaldi fish found off the coast of La Jolla, California.

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Photo by Tydence Davis; illustration by Dr. Seuss (photographed by danxoneill)

Dr. Seuss’s La Jolla

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Photo by flickr user melfoody; Truffula tree illustration from Jack St. Rebor; Birdwoman illustration courtesy of DrSeussArt.com

The Lorax

One of Dr. Seuss’s later works, The Lorax, published in 1971, is a story of a Truffula tree. Much of the scenery in La Jolla is reminiscent of Seussian-style illustration, but one tree in particular stands out as the inspiration for Seuss’s Truffula tree: the Monterey Cypress. Like the Garibaldi fish, this tree is unique to the California coast; with specialized climate needs, these trees do not readily spread on their own. Although Monterey Cypress trees are not numerous, some have been dated at two thousand years old. A famous image of a lone Monterey Cypress tree, with its irregular trunk and tufts of bright leaves at the top, still stands to remind its viewers of both Dr. Seuss’s drawings and his story of the lone Truffula tree.

La Jolla Birdwoman

In addition to writing children’s books, Dr. Seuss was also known for his political cartoons and his personal illustrative works. In the 1960s, Seuss drew a series of illustrations titled “La Jolla Birdwoman.” They were gently satirical, comparing the many birds of La Jolla with women in La Jolla society. La Jolla attracts many birdwatchers; but even if you’re

Left: A Monterey Cypress stands alone on the Californian coast. Right: Seuss’s Truffula trees were reduced to a single seed by the end of The Lorax.

not a birder, you might get a laugh from seeing the local birds and local women juxtaposed.

Dr. Seuss’s World

Plenty can occupy your time in La Jolla—from just sitting on the beach to surfing and kayaking. But as you play in the waves and look up at the cliffs, you can also see the irregular curves of the rock, the haziness of the

horizon, and the undulating surface of the ocean and be brought back into the world Dr. Seuss created in the imaginations of thousands of children. ▶▶

www.DrSeussArt.com

—Kayla Swan

Seuss captioned this work, “Oh, I’d love to go to the party but I’m absolutely dead.”

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cWhat?

Lovin’ It around the World What food could be more quintessentially American in our country’s vast melting pot than a burger and fries from a fast food drive-thru window? The Golden Arches® of McDonald’s, found all around the globe, are a symbol of international capitalism and of an ever-spreading, never-sleeping US culture. But if you’re looking for a reprieve from adventurous eating when traveling abroad, McDonald’s is not necessarily it. McDonald’s restaurants across the world have tweaked Mickey D’s—or MaccyD’s—cuisine to fit their local customers’ taste buds and lifestyles. From the vegetarian McAloo Tikki burger in India to the kosher Mac Royal in Israel, this familiar franchise offers plenty of surprises overseas. Rather than always being a relief from an alien palate, the sight of “M” is instead an opportunity to explore American influence around the world. It’s a unique bonus you can’t neglect on your international getaway. ▶▶

aboutmcdonalds.com/mcd/country/map.html

—Alicia Shumway

Mexico Sweden

Chilly patrons of Swedish ski resort Lindvallen can grab a warm bite to go at the world’s only McSki-thru. McDonald’s drive-thrus have been a staple since the creation of their first in 1975. The McSki-thru’s structure, which can accommodate 140 indoor guests for thawing, claimed its territory just 100 yards from Lindvallen’s main ski lift in December 1996. So ski down to Sweden’s twist on fast food for a cheaper alternative to pricey resort dining. ▶▶

mcdonalds.com/us/en/our_story/our_history.html

102 ▶ winter 2014

At McDonald’s in Mexico, you can swap fried-breakfast guilt for satisfying McMolletes. Originating in Spain and now considered typical Mexican food, McMolletes are three open English muffins topped with a spread of refried beans, a cheese slice, and a little salsa. Instead of inventing anything new, McDonald’s in Mexico offers the real thing for your morning meal. Get a taste of the work of generations. ▶▶

mcdonalds.com.mx

escapades

Hong Kong

This sophisticated city was the first to add McDonald’s wedding packages to their menu in January of 2011. The cost of these packages ranges from a minimum charge of HK$2,888 to HK$9,999 (the equivalent of about US$370 to US$1,290). These expenses are measly when compared to the bill for a traditionally extravagant Chinese wedding celebration. A wedding cake display of stacked Baked Apple Pie boxes is listed on the à la carte menu, and a wedding gown made of red or white balloons is available for rent or purchase. These services, instigated by popular demand, may reflect a shift in Hong Kong’s mentality during a time of economic recovery. Order a wedding with your burger, and see a modern cultural trend in action. ▶▶

mcdonalds.com.hk

Illustrations by Samantha Long

Israel

No pork products, correct preparation of acceptable meats, and strict separation of dairy and meat: this is kosher. At more than 40 of the approximately 170 McDonald’s branches in Israel, the restaurant’s main item, the Mac Royal, is not your standard cheeseburger. This kosher sandwich includes a charcoal-grilled patty, veggies, and a sauce—sans cheese—in a regular bun. The menu also offers an Israeli chopped salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, and red onions dressed with lemon juice and olive oil. Get your kosher eats on a weekday, though, because during Shabbat—the Jewish Sabbath on Friday and Saturday—everything operates on limited hours. ▶▶

mcdonalds.co.il

India

A McDonald’s menu that doesn’t include beef can come as a big surprise for many Americans. Chicken sandwiches and vegetarian items dominate the necessarily innovative burger joint in this primarily Hindu country. The McAloo Tikki burger, made especially for Indian McDonald’s branches, sports a potato and pea patty topped with some veggies and tomato mayo. Even breakfast is vegetarian: a spinach and corn patty, veggies, and mint mayonnaise make the Veg Supreme McMuffin. There’s some fusion cuisine you can’t pass up. ▶▶

mcdonaldsindia.net

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 103

Crossing the Cultural Chasm

in the Andes Enveloped by the lush greenery all around, I couldn’t tear my eyes from the sheer mountain slopes above and below the one-lane dirt road beneath our van. At the bottom of the deep chasm dropping away to our right, the grand Urubamba River swiftly swirled. In every direction, the sharp peaks of the Andes Mountains rose above us, shrouded in gray mist, proud in their legendary beauty. This trip to Peru was the fulfillment of a lifetime dream for me. We were traveling in a crowded 12-passenger van on our 50-mile (80-kilometer) journey back to Cuzco after a tour to Machu Picchu. We were hours into the journey with hours more to go before we would reach Cuzco. Our driver, a native of the Andes mountain range, was somehow able to keep us on our rocky path, though no railing separated our wheels from the edge of the cliff just inches away. He was fluent in Spanish and numerous indigenous tongues and had traditional Peruvian music piping through the van speakers, nose flutes whistling through our open windows into the haunting mountain air. But beyond knowing a hint of his music preferences and the languages he spoke, I knew nothing about him.

104 ▶ winter 2014

What is his story? I wondered, observing his stoic and silent gaze over the narrow dirt road. Where does he live? How many people are in his family? Does he enjoy driving this van for 10 hours on these narrow mountain roads? The sheer number of differences between his lifestyle and mine struck me as powerfully as did the sheer drop just inches to our right. More than anything, I wanted to talk with him and get to know him: Had he attended school? Did he tell bedtime stories to his children? Did he like the beach, or reading books, or playing soccer? I also wanted to tell him that he was my veritable hero for keeping us alive on this Andes adventure. But this dangerous trip was all in a day’s work for him, and I was just another tourist in his crowded van. So I kept my mouth shut.

staff essay

While everyone else slept, my eyes remained open. I watched for clues revealing our driver’s character. Finally, I found one as we prepared to cross a rickety wooden bridge. I wasn’t sure if we would make it. He appeared not to be sure either: just before we crossed and just after we reached the other side, I glimpsed him making the sign of the cross, silently signaling a plea and thanks for help from, I assumed, the Virgin Mary, whose image hung from a rosary on his rearview mirror.

Our driver

was somehow

able to keep us on our rocky path, though

the edge of the cliff was just

Photography by Debbie Adams

inches away.

There it was: my bridge to his character. It didn’t matter that I did not share his Catholic tradition, nor did it matter that I had been praying for a safe crossing in a different way and perhaps with a different concept of God. What did matter was that I knew something about this man, something as personal as his faith. As I found myself humbly honoring his tradition, I recognized a connection between us, securely crossing language and cultural barriers that ran deeper than the physical chasm beside us. I had discovered that human connections exist in the unlikeliest of places, granting us the most magnificent views of culture and humanity.

Opposite page: The view from the front seat of a tour van highlights the windy path. Top: Steep cliffs covered in greenery characterize the Andes. Left: Signs somewhat unnecessarily warn drivers of the precarious road. Above: Rivers and even live avalanches commonly block the road, but hardy tour vans roll over them with no problem. Below: The muddy Urubamba River crawls its way through the valleys at the base of the Andes.

—Debbie Adams www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 105

106 â&#x2013;ś summer 2013

Parting Shot Cefalù, Italy

Sicilian winters offer a welcome respite from the cold and the snow. Cefalù warms the heart with its pristine waters, the charm of a fishing part, and the delightful sounds and smells of Italian life. —Hillary Olsen

For dreamers who do.

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