CAFFÈ CULTURE CONNECT
BLENDING BUSINESS AND COFFEE SINCE 2006
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE CAFFÈ CULTURE SHOW
A CATALYST FOR THE COFFEE REVOLUTION From start-ups and independents to multi-site cafés and major chains, discover the latest products and trends at the Caffè Culture Show
HOT TRENDS
Pages 10 and 11
THE GREAT BEAN BOOM
Find out the latest trends in coffee, from water filtration to nitro
Industry leaders reflect on the rise of coffee over the past decade
Page 8
Page 5
BEAN LIFE
OLD SCHOOL
Explore the day-to-day roles of coffee professionals from the farm to the café
Check out our photo spread of vintage espresso machines
Page 15
Pages 6 and 7
DIRECT EFFECT Union Coffee's Steven Macatonia discusses the importance of direct trade Page 14
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Blending business and coffee since 2006
200+ exhibitors 1,000+ minutes of
business presentations
30 workshops
& masterclasses
Supporting you throughout every stage of your café’s evolution with the Independent Coffee Roasters’ Village, latest trends, brand new products, Artisan Food Market, insights and more.
caffecultureshow.com
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Caffè Culture Connect
Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
CAFFÈ CULTURE CONNECT THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE CAFFÈ CULTURE SHOW
It's showtime The Caffé Culture Show returns to London on 10 and 11 May for what proves to be the most exciting show since we set out eleven years ago. With our firm focus on the coffee industry, from chains to indies, we offer an unprecedented opportunity for coffee professionals to expand their businesses, share ideas and learn from peers. Whether you are weighing the pros and cons of opening your first coffee shop, or thinking it is time to expand overseas, the show's seminars and this newspaper's content will provide you with enough recommendations and guidance to make informed decisions. Join us as we follow a decade of growth with an even stronger future. Register to attend caffecultureshow.com
Derek Lamberton Editor-at-large
Re-defining the grind
CONTENTS 4
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW
5
A DECADE OF CHANGE
6
DR ESPRESSO'S VINTAGE MACHINES
8
HOT TRENDS
9
BUSINESS TIPS
10
ABOUT THE SHOW
12
BEYOND THE BEAN
14
THE UNION OF DIRECT TRADE
15
LIFE OF THE BEAN
16
HOW TO IMPRESS
17
OFF THE RECORD
18 EXHIBITORS
All of the features published with Caffè Culture Connect will be available online at caffeculture.com. Or follow the stories across social media
Remember when coffee was just a drink? Today coffee is benefitting from an unprecedented level of research, scrutiny, exploration and celebration, making it one of the hottest subjects in the hospitality industry and beyond. Caffé Culture Connect is here to bring you up to speed before the show on the latest developments and trends while paying homage to the traditions of the past. Enjoy the show.
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CAFECONOMY
Cafeconomy research was conducted by The Caffé Culture Show and sampled over 1,600 consumers and 100 café and coffee shop owners.
The UK's discerning taste for speciality coffee shows no sign of waning, and café businesses report that coffee is the area that has seen the biggest growth in the last 12 months.
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Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
RIDING THE THIRD WAVE Leaders reflect on a decade of change and growth.
Catherine Seay Director of Operations, Curators Coffee
The rise of the discerning customer ☛ In the UK the increase of consumer knowledge has had an enormous impact on coffee businesses. Consumers have become more discerning about coffee as a result of independent speciality coffee shops raising awareness of coffee quality. Branded coffee chains - still major competitors for these smaller businesses with their strong marketing practices and speed of service, amongst other things - are now also responding to consumer demand for higher quality products. Speciality cafés in turn have been challenged to deliver premium products whilst facing customer expectations, like speed of service, based on their experiences in chain coffee stores. Cafés like Curators Coffee are therefore constantly innovating and raising the bar on coffee quality to continue to excite customers and gain market share.
Guy Clapperton Journalist and author Speaking at Caffè Culture
Nothing beats good service ☞ The biggest change in coffee marketing over the last few years has to be social media – everyone can publish an opinion. The good news is that they publish positively as well as negatively. A decent review on TripAdvisor can help attract customers. A trawl of Facebook can help you find, say, a book group in search of a warm venue with a decent hot beverage. Attracting the good stuff takes work. We’ve learned that having your own Facebook page is critical, but business owners also have to check for references by setting up Google alerts. Social media
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aside, never forget to be warm, friendly and a damned good coffee house – by the time you’ve schlepped a lukewarm coffee over to the customer who’s been waiting ages when they asked for two hot ones, they could already have been on Twitter telling friends to avoid you. When coffee shops get it right, they’ll have the sort of recommendations money could never buy.
Lynsey Harley Founder, Modern Standard Coffee Hosting the Cupping Zone
scales are increasingly used in shops, but home brewing equipment has been left in the past. Partially due to the popularity of the pod machine, the domestic machine market has missed the past decade’s persistent demand for technical progress, and along with it, the seemingly endless selection of gadgets purchased for use in coffee shops. We have already seen niche brewing methods like the Kone, Eva Solo and even syphon brewers rise and fall in popularity. But it is now the time for domestic machines, like those used in cafés, to finally become more consistent and more accurate. They’ll need to, especially if machine manufacturers want to keep up with our insatiable appetite for quality coffee and its equipment.
Quality as standard
Shelagh Ryan Owner, Lantana
☛ Speciality coffee was a little known thing ten years ago in the United Kingdom, and it has come a long way. Flat White opened in Soho in late 2005, and even a couple of years later you could easily name the dozen or two quality independent cafés in a city like London. Along with the rise of quality cafés over the past decade, descriptors such as ‘direct trade’, ‘hand-roasted’, ‘small batch’ and others have entered the coffee lexicon and are no longer new to consumers. However, even today, only a few larger companies truly follow these practices, despite them becoming common marketing terms. Modern Standard was my approach to the need of speciality on a larger scale, and our growth is reflective of the desire for a speciality roaster that is competitive on price, and approachable on flavour.
Ross Brown Owner, Browns of Brockley
The machines of the future ☞ While coffee equipment for commercial use has seen vast technical advancements over the last ten years, the domestic market has lagged behind. Electronic, precision-oriented brew boilers and
From indie café to multi-site brand ☞ As an ardent lover of cafés and coffee I’m pleased to say that I’ve witnessed a significant and rapid maturing of the artisan café scene in London since Lantana opened in 2008. From a café owner’s perspective, I’ve noticed two big trends. The first one is independent cafés becoming multi-site brands. By expanding, cafés can leverage their experience and benefit from economies of scale – i.e. better buying power with suppliers. Secondly, many more wholesale roasters have entered the market, and more importantly, a lot of cafés are roasting for themselves. In 2009, when we opened, there were only two quality roasters to choose from. As a result, all artisan cafés were pretty much serving the same coffee. Now there are countless roasters to choose from, and this increase in competition means that cafés have better bargaining power and can get roasters to blend to their requirements. For example, we develop our blend in partnership with Alchemy Roasters. Bespoke blends and more roasters have allowed cafés to differentiate themselves in an increasingly crowded market.
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Gaggia Orione
Faema E61
Mid-1960s
1960 prototype
☜
Brugnetti Aurora 1960s
La Pavoni Brasilia Late 1960s
☞
Gaggia Orione 1963
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Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
Gaggia Esportazione
☞
American Espress Tipo Milano
1953
1953
LEVER FEVER A visit to Doctor Espresso's workshop reveals a collection of some of the world's finest vintage lever machines. Photos by Vic Frankowski
See Doctor Espresso and his machines at Caffè Culture.
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Gaggia Tipo Americano 1957
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HOT TRENDS
The coffee industry continues to attract innovators and entrepreneurs. Here are the latest trends to hit in 2016.
Hugh Duffie Co-Founder, Sandows
Chloë Callow Business Development Manager, Bespoke Water
Rebecca Young and Shaun Young Founders, The Estate Dairy
An intro to nitro
Beyond the bean: Water filtration
Milk matters
☞ We’re growing used to cold brew coffee, that gentle coffeemaking method that uses only cold water, as it continues to grow in popularity, and looks as though it will soon be a staple on café menus. But what is nitro cold brew? Nitro cold brew by Sandows is made from taking our original cold brew and infusing it with nitrogen gas, adding very small bubbles to the liquid. These small bubbles add texture and when served from a special tap, pours like a mini-pint of Guinness. It’s just a bit of fun really, but it’s a really appealing way to drink a naturally sweet, black iced coffee. It’s delicious, and much to the delight of our stockists, it only takes seconds to serve.
☞ While most coffee professionals are aware that a cup of coffee is around 98% water, many are still waking up to the implications this has on the coffee that customers are being served. Thanks to people like Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, quality of water is being properly explored these days as an important component in the coffeemaking process. The question of whether perfect water for coffee is achievable is debatable, and meanwhile water filtration companies are racing to create the ultimate filtration system - if that is even possible. But, as various options evolve, it has become a case of ‘watch this space’ and ‘keep doing what you're doing’ as well as you can. In the meantime, blendable reverse osmosis is widely regarded as the best method of filtration for hard water areas; reducing TDS and extracting coffee to reveal that clarity of flavour we’re always striving for. However, as mentioned, watch this space.
☛ Milk is an integral ingredient in enhancing a coffee’s overall flavour profile. Industry innovation of late has been focused on machinery and roasting; milk has been overlooked. The fact is, different fat contents and processing methods can noticeably alter the flavour and mouthfeel of those flat whites and cappuccinos. Most conventional milks are sourced from cows from upwards of 300 different farms and are processed to a standardised specification, whereas small on-farm processors tend to produce a much higher quality raw product. Non-homogenised milks are great for retaining the best natural qualities of milk: fats and proteins, the key elements for steamed milk.The future of milk has incredible potential, and encouraging more cafés to work directly with single farms will only benefit milk quality across the UK. At The Estate Dairy we're working closely with leading cafés. We constantly run quality control on processed and raw milk, and monitor the feed of the herd. We also release our milk in versions, allowing our stockists to provide feedback, and ensuring we achieve the highest standards.
“Blendable reverse osmosis is widely regarded as the best method of filtration for hard water areas.” Chloë Callow
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Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
THE ROAD AHEAD
From opening your first coffee shop to expanding overseas, experts share their tips.
Hugh Costello Investment Director, Livingbridge Speaking at Caffè Culture
The investment challenge ☛ What do investors look for? At Livingbridge, we think about potential investments in terms of people, positioning and platform. In terms of people, it all starts with the entrepreneur. We'll be looking for a leader with conviction, a clear vision and a passion for their business, as well as a strong wider team. A well positioned company is one that has a differentiated offering in a growing market. A company with a strong platform will be able to scale effectively. What should you be looking for in a potential investor? As an entrepreneur assessing funding options, my advice would be to look critically at any potential investor. Your decision is not just about raising money to achieve your growth plans: this is a partner with whom you will be working closely for several years to come. Examine their track record in your sector; speak to the whole team you'll be working with; take extensive references. It is very much a two way street and you have as much right to do your homework on them as they do on you!
Jeremy Challender Co-Founder, Prufrock Coffee
Quality training is critical ☞ Coffee historians assure me there has never been a time when coffee quality was more available or as sought-after as it is today in London. The exciting thing about this state of affairs is that there has never been a larger pool of customers to attract to your business. The hard part in this golden age of coffee is that there has also never been more competition. There is a considerable shortage of skilled baristas available to start-ups and we strive to answer the needs of businesses for fast jumps forwards in the workflows of café staff and their mastery of the modern barista technique. Lucky enough, it’s no harder than learning a basic dance step. A barista that has developed a complete muscle memory for the dosing and tamping techniques used in espresso production can really enjoy their work and revel in the uniquely hybrid role of machinist and customer service expert. Barista training develops the sensitivity to the complex interactions of coffee grinds and brew water, and the intensely diverse range of flavours in coffee is something the modern barista must become more and more receptive to in their role. We accelerate this process through structured cup tasting and technical drills in the ergonomics of dosing and distributing of the coffee grinds. It must be fast, precise and consistent and paired with continual rethinking of the best workflows and the adoption of the most effective technology.
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Most of all in our classes we put emphasis on customer service and stress that the really exciting and dynamic feature of the job of the barista is the ever changing customer interaction.
Nicole Ferris Marketing & Business Development Manager, Climpson & Sons
Standing out in a crowded market ☛ Marketing has played a crucial role for Climpson & Sons and will continue to do so. As one of the pioneers in the London coffee scene, our early integration into the fabric of the London Fields and Broadway Market community has been integral to our success. With exponential growth in the industry, we realised we needed to do more than rely on word of mouth. Instigating a rebrand, a new website and packaging upgrade in early 2014 has been fundamental to our growth and in differentiating ourselves from other coffee companies. We are one of the leading independent speciality roasters and cafés in the UK now, however our diversification into the concept of restaurant residencies has shown our point of difference. Our acclaimed restaurant at Climpson’s Arch conveys our natural progression into food and beverage, and operates as a platform for up-and-coming chefs. Our goal is to continue in this direction. By pulling on our experience, ethos and strong brand identity we have created a destination café and restaurant like no other in London, or the UK. There is, however, always room for improvement, and we must continue to adapt, evolve and be creative in such a rapidly changing market.
Edwin Harrison Owner, Artisan Speaking at Caffè Culture
Starting from scratch ☞ Daunting is the word that springs to mind when you’re about to take the leap into the unknown and set up your first coffee shop, but with this step also comes excitement and endless opportunities. At Artisan, we believe you need to have a clear vision, a sense of humour and the ability to motivate the people around you to deliver phenomenal customer service. One of the beautiful things that we found about setting up from scratch is that you create and learn about every aspect of the business you’re developing. Many of the technical skills can be gained through coffee schools or networking, however it’s passion, obsession and drive that determines whether or not you will be successful in this exciting journey.
Richard Shaer CEO, Taylor St Baristas
Growing global ☞ In 2015, Taylor St Baristas made the decision to expand its business to the US – it was not a decision we took lightly. Growth has always been a topic of interest at Taylor St. There are many things that accompany growth. Change is the most central. Change creates uncertainty and uncertainty is uncomfortable. Launching a business in another country is not easy and it’s not comfortable. However, it’s aligned with our strategy and signals our company’s global aspirations. Growth creates opportunity, career growth and better training, the ability to buy better equipment, and the scale to source higher quality produce – and to facilitate the mutual ideas and exchange of ideas and inspirations from different markets. Expanding to the US was a considered decision. There is great coffee in New York, but it’s not pervasive and the lines out the door at good cafés are reminiscent of London five or six years ago. Stay tuned for the launch of Taylor St Baristas’ first US outlet, scheduled to open in spring 2016 at 285 Madison Ave in New York.
David Abrahamovitch CEO & Co-Founder, Grind & Co. Speaking at Caffè Culture
Expanding to multiple sites ☞ I think the two main challenges of scaling a coffee business are also the two areas which are the biggest cost centres: property and people. I think most hospitality businesses live or die based on their success in these two areas. Of course, fantastic product is also essential, but it’s relatively easy to make great coffee, food and cocktails once, in a test environment. The challenge is to deliver that product consistently, and at scale, across multiple locations at once. To do that you need a team of amazing people who are passionate about what they do on the floor, and the right people in management and training to ensure standards are maintained and consistently improved. Then, you need to be creating and selling this product in the right spaces. Particularly for a coffee business (and maybe slightly less so for a food-led business) it’s going to be an uphill battle to go off-pitch and try to become too destinational. You really need to be in the right building, in the right spot, with the right customers walking past (and of course balancing this with paying the right rent), and then find a way to engage with those customers. And a massive part of this comes back to having the right people. Get those two things right and you’ll stand half a chance!
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A CATALYST FOR THE COFFEE REVOLUTION The Caffè Culture Show was launched in 2006 at the point the coffee industry in the UK was about to boom. Since then, the size of the market has more than doubled thanks to more than 16,000 cafés and coffee shops in operation around the country. As the leading and longest-running event dedicated to the café and coffee community, The Caffè Culture Show has become a must-visit for everyone from start-ups to one-shop independents, and from five-outlet entrepeneurs to major coffee shop chains.
What
Where
Over 50,000 visitors since 2006 20+ hours of business presentations 30 masterclasses and workshops Visitors’ combined buying power of £83m Over 200 exhibiting suppliers
Olympia Central and Olympia West Level 1, Blythe Road Entrance London, W14 8UX
When
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REGISTER FOR FREE Join thousands of individuals from across the café and coffee industry. Simply visit caffecultureshow.com, fill out your details and confirm your place. It couldn’t be easier.
Find news, ideas and inspiration across our social channels. Search ‘Caffe Culture’ and join us on
Tuesday 10 May 9am – 5.30pm Wednesday 11 May 9am – 5pm
WHAT TO DO WHILE YOU’RE HERE… Masterclasses
Enjoy over 30 mini-masterclasses throughout the two days of the show, from delivering showstopping latte art to customer-pleasing coffee cocktails and tea tasting challenges. Plus, it’s your chance to put your most complex coffee questions to a panel of our coffee geeks.
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Independent Coffee Roasters’ Village
The Independent Coffee Roasters’ Village celebrates the huge growth in the number of independent coffee roasters that are cropping up in the UK. Understand the variety of beans available and gain invaluable knowledge to pass on to your customers and boost your credibility.
Cupping Zone
As customers become more explorative in their tastes, there is a greater need for café owners and baristas to know their fruity from their nutty. The Cupping Zone provides expert tasting tutorials, advice on sensory subtleties, and recommendations on which coffee goes best with a morning croissant.
The Artisan Food Market With customers actively seeking out food made from local produce and organic ingredients, our Artisan Food Market offers fresh alternatives to your current sourcing channels.
Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
BUSINESS SESSIONS The Caffè Culture Show’s business programme is split into two streams. The Caffè Fundamentals sessions focus on inspiring young start-ups to develop their proposition, while the Caffè Enterprise strand aims to offer support to businesses aiming to boost their brand and secure investment to take their operation to the next level.
TUESDAY 10 MAY Caffè Fundamentals
Caffè Enterprise
11am Social media or social mediocre? Guy Clapperton, Business journalist and best-selling author In this talk, author Guy Clapperton offers insights into what works and what doesn’t on social media and how to check that it’s worth whatever you’re spending on it!
10am How to franchise your coffee shop Carl Reader, British Franchise Association Are you looking to expand your business through franchising? In this session you'll hear about what and what not to do to ensure you develop a successful franchise proposition and when the time is right to start the process.
4pm It's all in the training Edwin Harrison, Founder, Artisan Coffee School As the founder of Artisan Coffee School, Edwin believes training can make the single biggest impact on a coffee shop business. Here, he discusses lessons learnt and why it pays to get it right.
12pm State of the nation John Richardson, Best-selling author and coffee shop consultant John Richardson has partnered with Caffè Culture to reveal results from Cafeconomy – a significant research project into independent cafés and consumer trends. 1pm Ready for investment? Hugh Costello, Investment Director, Livingbridge Hugh is part of one of the UK’s leading private equity
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WEDNESDAY 11 MAY companies and he’ll lead you through the process of seeking investment, advising what investors may look for from you, how it will help grow your business and what you can expect from an investor in return. 2pm Brand building Ralph Scott, cdw + Partners Beyond the logo, colour scheme and uniform, Ralph will lead you through the process of how to build a business brand ready for success. Using real life case studies he’ll explore how you can become the next big hit on the high street. 3pm Disruption David Abrahamovitch, Founder, Shoreditch Grind One of the hottest prospects in the industry, Shoreditch Grind's founder is here to share the secrets of their success, from how they launched a new concept in coffee shops through to securing £1.5million through crowdfunding.
Caffè Fundamentals
Caffè Enterprise
11am Milk matters: could free range dairy make your café the cream of the crop? Sustainable Restaurant Association What opportunity does switching to free range dairy present to café owners? This panel hosted by the Sustainable Restaurant Association shows free range can make the difference with taste and customers.
10am Does franchising really work? Euan Fraser, Coffee shop and franchising consultant If you are ready to expand your business and are considering franchising, hear about how others have approached it – from Starbucks to Coffee Republic.
12pm How to set up and manage a successful coffee shop John Richardson, Best-selling author and coffee shop consultant Providing advice and support to anyone who is just starting on their coffee journey, John distils his experience of the dozens of coffee and café businesses he has opened both personally and for clients.
1pm Perfecting your business model ready for expansion Umer Ashraf Malik, Founder, iCafe With investment from Dragon Duncan Bannatyne and using a combination of centrallyowned stores and franchises, Umer shares his experience of growing an independent business into a significant brand.
2pm How to avoid growing pains Edwin Harrison, Founder, Artisan Coffee School Through the Artisan Coffee School, Edwin has gained valuable experience in what training works and what doesn't. This presentation gives tips on establishing a training program that delivers a motivated, slick and reliable team. 3pm Social media or social mediocre? Guy Clapperton, Business journalist and best selling author In this talk, author Guy Clapperton offers insights into what works and what doesn’t on social media and how to check that it’s worth whatever you’re spending on it!
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FUELLING GROWTH BEYOND HOT DRINKS
Food and packaged goods are key to many café businesses. Here are some tips to keep things fresh.
Daniel Wilson Cook and Co-Founder Dandy Café
William Rixon Co-Founder Minor Figures
Fabio Ferreira Director Notes Coffee Roasters
Peter Dore-Smith Founder Kaffeine
Taste rules
Packaging cold brew
Food and coffee pairing
Focusing on food first
☛ Food in cafés should be fun, it should be playful, but most of all it should speak of who you are. Whatever your jam, make it your own. It doesn’t have to be fancy, or Michelin quality. Whether it is creamed corn, toasted sandwiches, a tomato salad, or pancakes, there is only one rule – it has to be damn tasty. Other than that, there are no rules attached to café food. You don’t have to serve avocado and if you do, you definitely don’t have to serve it with chilli flakes and lime. Café food isn’t limited to eggs, or bacon sandwiches, or dahl for that matter. It’s whatever you choose to eat and should be whatever you want to cook, provided, of course, that it follows that one rule.
☛ Following close behind the well-established trends in the US, cold brew is already becoming a staple in the majority of independent coffee shops here in the UK. The only trouble being, cold brew can be troublesome. Drip or immersion? Both are going to clutter up the bench. How much to make? Go small and risk selling out on a scorcher by 9:45am? Or more likely given the reality of not living in California, chuck out a batch on a rotter. Suppose you could bottle up the rest, or play it safe and not make any at all. That was certainly the situation we found a few summers ago here in London, and the main drivers behind developing our own product. However even the majority of bottled cold brews are short-life, so that in particular was a key challenge to overcome in order to ensure that cold brew could stop being just a summertime treat and instead become a genuine all-year-round offering. Ultimately simplifying cold brew service for cafés leads to seeing it in more places more of the time. And that’s good news all round.
☞ For many people coffee is just a morning fix to keep them going through the day. For me coffee is much more than this; it is not only a delicious drink but also a beverage which deserves a perfect match to go with it. Every time I fancy a polenta cake I cannot have it without a filter coffee - it is an automatic connection in my mind, I would only eat it if I have a nice cup of joe to enjoy with it - as much as I cannot have a sticky brownie if not complemented by a silky flat white. Generally cakes are far easier to pair with coffee, but it is quite fun to go to the next level of coffee pairing and bring something else to your table. I love the pairings we do cheeses, they can be exceptional. An espresso with Italian chestnut honey and 24-month-aged Parmesan cheese is a great example of a flavoursome pairing.
☞ I always knew food would need to be of equal importance to coffee and service, even as part of the planning for Kaffeine before opening in 2009. This has certainly proven to be true. For me, I wanted to create an overall, complete hospitality business in the shape of a café and this required the recognition of food as being a central part of it. Our challenge was (and still is) to create a delicious menu in an A1 environment, that is, where we do not cook to order. So we created a menu that has fixed staples and favourites, as well as creating a weekly changing menu that reflects the seasons, the market availability and encourages the chef's creativity, but importantly gives variety to our regular customers. A quality menu adds considerably to your business profile, value and customer experience. It is a challenge, but it is also hugely rewarding.
“Food in cafés should be fun, it should be playful, but most of all it should speak of who you are.” Daniel Wilson, Dandy Café
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Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
A leader in stainless steel re-usable drinkware, Klean Kanteen is actively working towards less reliance on single-use coffee cups that end up in landfill. Environmental stewardship and fair labour policies are central to our philosophy. Come and see the range at Caffe Culture 2016 Stand E34. Register and attend for free at caffecultureshow.com
www.kleankanteen.com
#BringYourOwn
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Parchment coffee sun drying in raised beds is attended to by a farmer in Rwanda.
A farmer in traditional Mam dress adds coffee cherries to a pulping machine in Guatemala.
DIRECT TRADE MATTERS Union Hand-Roasted Coffee has a longstanding commitment to treating farmers with integrity. In recent years, direct trade has become a much more common term amongst roasters, and as a result its meaning is more open to interpretation. I can’t speak about direct trade as a whole, but I can speak for Union Direct Trade – our coffee sourcing initiative we created and which is our business model, our heart and soul. Simply put, we believe that working directly with
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coffee producers is not only beneficial to them, but enables them to produce some of the world’s best coffee as a result. Union Direct Trade is all about building long-term relationships with small-scale farmers. Our regular visits allow us to discuss the new season, give feedback on the current harvest and learn about new developments or issues they may need support or guidance with. Most importantly, Union Direct Trade is our commitment to pay sustainable pricing which motivates and supports our coffee quality improvement initiatives. We create mutually beneficial relationships; for us we have a trusted partner with the capability to create consistently high quality coffee (giving us
Steven Macatonia Co-Founder, Union Hand-Roasted Coffee
confidence), and in return we are a reliable buyer, with a firm but fair behaviour. To see how Union Direct Trade has benefitted coffee growers in the developing world, you can look at countries such as Rwanda whose all-important coffee industry was left in disarray following the 1994 conflict. Union works with three co-operatives there, one of which since 2002, and in that time we have seen how our approach to sourcing can transform the livelihood of thousands by bringing funding, knowledge, organisation and technology. Today, Rwandan coffee is extremely well regarded on the speciality stage and their quality is more delicious every season.
Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
FROM Erwin Mierisch Fincas Mierisch
Heidi Beeton Head Barista, Daily Goods
The farmer
The barista
☞ The day starts at 4am. My role is a multi-faceted one with my current focus being on the building of housing and a mill renovation in Honduras. The construction of housing isn’t something you’d immediately associate with a coffee producer but in countries such as Honduras, as well as a moral responsibility to do so, we offer housing, healthcare and other perks to attract people into working on the farms. With this also comes organising worker visas, payrolls and such. Then there’s the actual job of farming, with overseeing the planting, fertilising, pruning and processing across our nine farms in Nicaragua and Honduras, as well as continuing the research and development which is so important to us at Fincas Mierisch.
Marta Dalton Founder and CEO, Coffee Bird
The buyer ☛ It’s the end of February and I’m currently at our lab in Antigua, Guatemala. We are three-quarters of the way into the coffee harvest. The last few weeks have been spent coordinating and meeting with a lot of farmers and roasters. It’s exciting for us to bring both roasters and coffee producers together in the same room. These meetings are extremely important in building a mutual understanding and cultivating sustainable relationships. I’ve spent the last week touring the most remote corners of Guatemala. The long trips on horrible roads are compensated with the vast beauty Guatemala has to offer. The memories of the lush green landscapes are more vivid than a camera can capture. Whilst managing customer visits, we are also cupping a remarkable volume of samples. All of our relationships began with quality and it continues to be at the heart of what we do.
Ed Greenall Roaster, Origin Coffee Roasters
The roaster ☞ The day kicks off with slipping on a filter and opening the grassy sacks of green coffee while the roasters warm up. It’s then full pelt with production roasts on our two Lorings and quality controlling previous roasts. Production brings out the real OCD in us; competing to get our roast curves smack bang on the profile curve, and, of course, packing and labelling coffee bags uniformly. The QC’ing provides a nice balance to this. A team of us QC through brewing and by using gadgets like colour readers. It’s such an important part of what we do – ensuring it’s right every time.
☛ A day in the life of a barista can vary daily, from café to café, the level of experience and what audience the café is catering to. However we all have a fundamental base to which we live by: Making tasty beverages with a smile, quickly. Setting a recipe for the coffee is my first job in the morning and one I enjoy the most. This daily task is made a lot easier if you keep most of the variables the same, leaving one thing to alter: the grind (with exceptions of course). If you’re lucky you will have a grinder that doesn’t need a lot of changing throughout the day. Generally baristas use scales and timers to increase the consistency of the beverages they serve. This consistency allows us to build trust with our customers as they know that we can deliver quality, time and time again. Working as a barista is rarely a solitary job. We all work together as a family, running the drinks out, washing dishes, cleaning tables and taking orders. We learn from each other, share information and inspire each other in our roles. We like to create that same family feeling with our regular customers, getting to know them on a first name basis, what they do for work, etc. Building a rapport with customers is fundamental to keeping our industry alive. As 3fe founder Colin Harmon says, “Earning their trust” will enable customers to see the real importance of speciality coffee. We do this in the hope of influencing the market and sales, and as a result, increasing the wages and general living standards of the many people involved in creating that tasty cup of coffee.
Ruth Coppin Co-Founder, Timberyard
GREEN
GROUND
What is life like for those who shepherd the humble bean on its journey from tree to cup?
The café owner ☞ After over three years of running Timberyard you'd think co-founder Darren Elliott and I would have more regularity to our daily schedule. But the truth is, one of the joys of an early stage business is the unpredictability. All three of our locations are open seven days a week and every day is very different for both of us. On a typical weekday, Darren and I will both be on email from around 6am and we will arrange to meet at one of our locations at 8am to catch up. After our time together we tend to go our separate ways to the other locations where we both attend meetings, check up on service and try to clear our emails (which never happens!). We will always want to spend time in our shops, working alongside our customers, whilst consuming our own products as it provides such valuable knowledge of our business. Most days our paths cross again to meet and recap on the day before we both head home to spend time in the evenings working on the business rather than in the business. It’s not unusual to see emails from either of us until around midnight.
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THE IDEAL CAFÉ Writers share their thoughts on what makes a café great, from barista banter to the perfect mug.
Celeste Wong The Girl in the Café web series
Creatures of comfort ☞ When I’m not making coffee for people, I love to go out for coffee. But why do we often have a handful of favourites we regularly call on? For me, the cafés I regularly visit all have something unique in common. Of course I need to enjoy the coffee and food, but it’s those places that make me feel comfortable, where I feel the staff and customers are people I want to be around. It’s a really important element to create when operating a café, to know who they want and cater for that. It’s not always easy to do because people have different perspectives on what makes them feel comfortable. For some, it’s the disarming banter, but for others that’s confronting or embarrassing. Maybe it’s the way the tables are laid out, or food that reminds you of home. Customers who find their special place to drink coffee and hang out, the key is to appreciate that place and never take it for granted.
Karina Hof Staff Writer, Sprudge and Freelance Editor
An open mind and Labrador Retrievers ☛ My ideal café is like a good psychoanalyst: pleasant and disarming, yet neutral enough for the client to project her inner world onto, whatever that may be at any given hour. The atmosphere should therefore be equally conducive to enlightenment-yielding dialogues, flagrant self-absorption and unawkward stretches of shared silence. Staff should welcome all patrons and all iterations of a patron, even on days when she shows up as a schlump with muddy shoes and, all the more so, on days when a happenstance of
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Caffè Culture Connect
conservative tailoring gives her the staid appearance of a diplomat about to sign a peace deal. A selection of filter coffees, with no preference for apparatus type, is a must; as are savory snacks, selfserve water and a reliable rotation of in-house Labrador Retrievers.
Lisa Pollack Columnist, Financial Times
In praise of the solid mug ☞ If a lover of cute cat photos went into a coma before the web was invented and then woke up in the present day with her fingertips resting on a smartphone, she may come close to experiencing the joy I feel when a café serving specialty coffee has good, solid mugs. Baby blue porcelain cups? No, thank you. Crockery lovingly collected from thrift shops, grandma’s cupboard and Etsy, with (mis) matched souvenir spoons? Oh, no. Give me some Workshop or Union filter served in a mug that could get run over by a tank and still take a refill. My go-to spot for mug joy is Daily Goods in Camberwell. The café also features my favoured style of ‘loner table’: small uniform islands of personal space to which a single person with a laptop can lay claim without an undercurrent of squatter’s guilt. It is here I place my mug. Until I need a refill, that is.
Phil Wain Editor, London’s Best Coffee
The café experience ☞ It might seem an exaggeration to say something as everyday as a café visit could possibly be regarded as a transcendent experience,
but that's just how I feel about it. When I take time out of a busy day to visit a café the total experience is something that can lift my mood in a way few experiences can for the money. So what makes a good café experience? A customer should be welcomed as soon as they enter. As long as that person is acknowledged, they won’t mind waiting a little. People like Peter Dore-Smith at Kaffeine focus their staff on hospitality above all else and for good reason. We might come in for quality coffee but that human engagement raises the level of the experience. The way a café treats, trains and pays its staff will impact on that interaction and the experience.
Dr Matthew Green Author and Founder of The Coffeehouse Tour
The historian’s coffeehouse ☛ My ideal coffeehouse would never exist. Strangers would sit around long wooden tables locked into convivial conversation about politics and philosophy late into the night. The tables would be strewn with free newspapers and as each new patron walked in, everyone would pick up their pipes and cry "What News Have You?" The wi-fi would be jammed. Mobile phones, on sight, thrown into the bubbling coffee cauldron. The coffee – infinite refills of the stuff – would be brewed “black as hell, strong as death, sweet as love”, according to the wise Turkish proverb, and served with egg-shells and mustard. But alas, this is the lost world of the 18thcentury coffeehouse, and to replicate this kind of environment in a London coffeehouse today might well be commercial suicide. There are exceptions, of course. I love the Espresso Room on Great Ormond Street, a hidden gem opposite the children's hospital. With hardly any seating inside, you have to share tiny backless L-shaped benches outside with strangers who, even in this anonymous city, have been known to talk to each other. There I’ve met off-duty clowns, philosophising surgeons, and consoled a journalist who’d just been fired. The flat white, I will add, is mind-blowing.
Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
‘Can I get two cups of cino, please?’
The old classic. When a customer can't get out of the café because the door is push, not pull.
The deep sadness felt when someone you admire comes in and orders a drink you consider less than admirable.
During the morning rush: 'Can you hold this while I do up my shoe lace?'
‘One skinny latte and a brownie.’
THE ROAST
Will Hilliard and James Wise, two of London's most well-respected baristas share some of their funny, and not so funny, customer experiences.
The mixed emotions felt by a barista when they serve the fruitiest natural Ethiopian they've ever tasted and the customer describes it as 'nutty'.
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‘Dry americano, please.’
Customer: ‘We just moved in next door. This is such a great find! Expect to see us everyday from now on.’ (And she never returns.)
‘McDonald's charges less to add a cheeseburger to your espresso than this place does to add milk.’
‘Do you guys make lattes?’
'One normal coffee, please.' (Followed by a four minute v60 routine. Followed by the customer's request for milk and two sugars.)
‘I'll have my special, please.’ (A white americano.)
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MEET THE CAFFÈ CULTURE SHOW 2016 EXHIBITORS Exhibitor list correct at the time of going to print
A35 adZONE Cafe Barriers A13 Aequator–Swiss Made Coffee Machines AM12 Agroposta E53 Alodrinks F50 Alpha Signs & Name Plates D34 Alpine Cooling UK B26 Ambican UK Ltd C31 Artisan Biscuits NB4 Attican Ltd D39 Auteur Ltd G66 BARU NV B74 Bee Me Frozen Yogurt B43 Belvoir Fruit Farms D4 Birchall G24 Blue Cap Coffee G17 Blue Diamond NB11 Bramwell Brown Clocks D11 Bravilor UK Ltd A37 Bravura Foods Ltd AM7 Bread Bread Bakery B66 Breckland Orchard A25 Buzz Catering G25 Cafe Cake Company A93 Café Culture Magazine C25 Cafès Novell C61 Cakesmiths C34 Cash Control RV4 Cast Iron Coffee Roasters A15 Catering Equipment Ltd B31 Catersales Ltd RV5 Catimor Ltd F45 Cawston Press C43 Champion & Reeves AM4 Chegworth Valley Juices E93 Chrom-Art G60 DCA Equipment Ltd B91 Donaldson Reeves Ltd D41 Dynamic Merchandise Ltd E32 Easipac G16 ECM C41 Ecoffee Cup G11 Eden Contract Furniture
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Caffè Culture Connect
AM10 Emily's Fruit Crisps B38 ERS D37 European Watercare B52 F Bender Ltd A85 Fentimans C51 Flower & White B11 Franke Coffee Systems UK A1a Fresh Eric's Cake Company D1 Fulfil UK B41 Galeta AM3 Ganache Macaron Bakery F21 Genfrost B5 GW London B51 H G Stephenson Ltd B90 Heavenly Cakes NB10 Himalayan Products Limited B64 Honeyrose Bakery E42 HVD.BE NB5 Hygge Tea C16 Illy B1 Italian Beverage Company RV7 J. Atkinson & Co. Ltd F28 JBG-2 Ap. Z O.O. B71 Joe's Tea Company RV3 Johnson Brothers B21 JTC F48 Keeko Kids Ltd F51 Kitchen Garden Foods E34 Klean Kanteen AM18 Kouros Ltd E36 Kylemark Workwear NB6 La Biscotteria AM1 La-Di-Da Cupcake Co AM22 Let Them Eat A21 Liqui Design & Crate47 D2 Lotus Bakeries B2 Luscombe Organic Drinks C76 Lynx Purchasing Ltd C21 Magrini Ltd B22 Manitowoc G32 Marimba World Chocolate C2 Matthew Algie & Co Ltd C51 Flower & White
B44 Metcalfe's Skinny E51 Metro Drinks Ltd NB1 Mighty Fine Honeycomb C15 Monbana D43 Monin UK (Bennett Opie Ltd) RV4 Moon Roast Ltd A5 Mrs Crimbles G35 Mulmar Foodservice Solutions AM2 My Sweet Tooth Factory C3 N&W Global Vending Ltd A51 Nairn's Oatcakes Limited NB3 Naturelly Jelly Juice E41 Nelson Catering Equipment E25 Nisbets AM11 Nourish. Grow, Cook, Enjoy D3 Original Drinks H31 Osborne Refrigerators Ltd E21 Pentair Water Quality Systems AM8 Pop Notch A3 Poslavu UK AM6 PostTea NB9 Powerful Water Company C42 Premium Beverage Ltd A29 Prince & Sons Tea Co D85 Propercorn AM9 Quibbles Fussy About Nibbles A11 Quick Fire Tableware C65 Quickbite Magazine A14 R H Hall C50 Rapid Action Packaging Ltd G31 RBC Logistics C36 Redemption Food Co Ltd C91 Revel D38 Routin 1883 B73 RWN Trading Ltd AM13 SAF E15 Sanremo UK E12 Schaerer C53 Scott Farms E4 Showpiece Design Ltd E43 Simple Solutions 360 AM14 Sir Hans Sloane A62 Skinny Mixes UK
A2 Snapp B81 Snow Shock Ltd B67 South Street Ice Cream F14 Sovereign Partners Ltd C75 Stoats F52 Story Brands C94 Sunsoul–100% Natural Energy Drinks A1 Sweet Coffee Italia A65 Swiss Pack Europe D63 Taypack G64 Tea People E96 Teapigs C32 Ten Acre Crisps A41 The Artisan Bakery D42 The Beanworks F36 The Chai Company F47 The Exploding Bakery B25 The Handmade Cake Co RV6 The I.O.W. Espresso Co. Ta / Cafe Bristot UK B68 The Malted Waffle Co F35 The Metropolitan Tea Company NB7 The Original Dutch Coffee Co C44 The Tea House Ltd A32 Tightpac H25 Toper NB2 Tosay AM5 Traybakes G15 Twinings C1 WMF UK Ltd G23 Worldpay (UK) Ltd B36 WRS Systems C77 Xtracs E11 Yarrow Art And Design B65 Your Tonic
Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London
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Blending business and coffee since 2006
200+ exhibitors 1,000+ minutes of
business presentations
30 workshops
& masterclasses
Supporting you throughout every stage of your café’s evolution with the Independent Coffee Roasters’ Village, latest trends, brand new products, Artisan Food Market, insights and more.
caffecultureshow.com
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Caffè Culture Connect
Caffè Culture Show 10–11 May 2016 Olympia, London