COUGAR MARCH 2014
COUTURE
APPAREL, MERCHANDISING, DESIGN AND TEXTILES NEWSLETTER
JOAN ELLIS
GIVES AMDT A MAKEOVER
Growing Cotton Awareness FUNDING THE FUTURE JOB READY, DAY ONE
Gaining real-world experience
A Note from the
CHAIR Welcome to the 2014 edition of Cougar Couture, the newsletter for the Washington State University Department of Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles. As you can see from our new newsletter layout, the department is undergoing an exciting makeover, and I’m excited to tell you all about it. So grab a cup of tea (or a glass of wine), sit back, and enjoy!
I
assumed the role of department chair in May 2013, and since then, it has been full-steam-ahead. While I’ve been a faculty member at WSU for more than 13 years, this is a new and exciting role for me. (See Get to Know the Chair on page 4 for my background.) Along with my talented colleagues in the department, we are already implementing new and innovative initiatives across the unit. One major development is that the department is moving this summer! AMDT will welcome its incoming freshmen into newly renovated facilities in the Johnson Annex and Johnson Hall. We will boast three new state-of-theart teaching spaces, a new fully-equipped computer lab, two new apparel product development studios with new equipment and technology, a new visual merchandising studio, and a state-of-the-art functional textile and apparel laboratory for teaching and research. We will keep you informed of our grand opening so you can visit Pullman and celebrate with us.
While we will have new facilities to match the big ideas in the department, we also recognize the need to hire additional faculty. We see an enormous opportunity in the product development arena, and will welcome a new tenure-track faculty in August 2014. The new faculty will help develop learning opportunities for our students around the product development process, and conduct cutting-edge research in our new lab. In other news, we are implementing a new strategic plan with a focus on fostering current and new industry partnerships to fulfill our land-grant mission and to provide the best learning environment possible for our students. New curriculum planning is underway as a result of feedback from our industry partners. These changes will allow our students to be job-ready the day they graduate. To enhance the classroom experience for our students, we organize industry visits and study tours. In 2013, Nordstrom, Eddie Bauer, Columbia, REI, Coldwater Creek, and Cotton Incorporated visited our classrooms and provided seminars for our students. In addition, over 100 students attended our first Nordstrom Day in Seattle, and fourteen students spent a day at Cotton Incorporated headquarters in Cary, North Carolina. This year we are planning a Los Angeles study tour, a day at Eddie Bauer, and visits from Niemen Marcus, Kohl’s and many others. As we embark on 2014, we look forward to what will most likely be the most transformative year for AMDT in quite some time. Please come visit us, you won’t believe your eyes! And as always, GO COUGS!
–Joan Ellis On the cover: Tosin Adelaja models a garment created by Brenna Guerra.
COTTON SEMINARS Marcia Gibbs Sustainable Cotton Project The Use of Technology in Cotton Growing March 21, 2013 Debra Laney Levi’s Dyeing and Finishing—The Reduction in Chemical and Water Usage March 26, 2013 Linda Peffer Nordstrom Large Corporate Efforts in Social Responsibility and Cotton September 10, 2013 Cotton Incorporated Headquarters Visit September 25–26, 2013 Sandra Cho Columbia Sportswear Fair Labor and Cotton Apparel Production October 8, 2013 Tim Brown REI Consumer Demands for Cotton October 22, 2013 Megan Peterson Cotton Incorporated Post Consumption and Recycling November 4, 2013
Cotton Inc. Cotton Awareness Seminar Series, 2013 A recent grant, authored by Dr. Joan Ellis and Dr. Karen Leonas, provided fourteen undergraduate AMDT students with an extraordinary learning opportunity. The students participated in a yearlong project designed to increase awareness and understanding of cotton fiber and cotton textiles. The series of seminars were made possible by Cotton Incorporated through their Student Sponsorship Program. Cotton sustainability was the program focus, covering the entire supply chain, from seed to post-consumption practices. Students enrolled in a directed study course and, with mentoring of faculty, identified key topics then researched these topics to uncover salient issues in the textile and apparel industry. They identified experts who could address these topics at on-campus seminars. These engagements with industry experts were more than a “talk at you” experience, as they spent time conducting intimate round-table discussions with the students. Seminar topics included cotton production/growing and the use of technologies (Cotton Sustainability Project), dyeing and finishing techniques (Levi Strauss), two sessions on social aspects and human rights (Nordstrom and Columbia), consumer demands for cotton (REI), and the reuses of cotton through recycling (Cotton Incorporated). The capstone experience for this seminar series was a visit to Cotton Incorporated headquarters in North Carolina. The unique visit encouraged further exposure and reflection, resulting in a memorable educational experience. Students became acquainted with the processes of cotton ginning and yarn production, color and finish application, weaving and knitting of materials, and textile testing procedures to ensure the highest quality materials. In addition to the site tour, informative presentations were provided, covering various aspects of cotton across the globe. Students were also given additional resources for further learning after returning to campus.
AMDT extends a special Thank You to Cotton Incorporated for providing our students with this rewarding experience.
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We have a global vision. When our students graduate, they are equipped to be leaders in the multibillion-dollar international
New AMDT Fundraising Campaign Brightens the Future for Students Since its inception, WSU AMDT has furnished the apparel and textiles industries with holistically educated, industry-relevant, and inspired graduates. With 272 current students, of which 52 are seniors graduating in May (many of whom already have job offers in the industry), our preeminence in fashion, apparel, and textiles statewide is a source of pride. The Inspiring Excellence campaign positions WSU Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles to be the leading apparel and textiles education and research program in the Pacific Northwest. Our graduates—who are job ready the day they graduate—enhance the industry with their superior education and leadership.
fashion, apparel and textiles industry. Job ready, day one.” ~Dr. Joan Ellis AMDT Department Chair
WSU has a culture of excellence and actively supports ways in which our students can be competitive in the workplace following graduation. Being located in Washington State, near a thriving fashion, apparel, and textiles industry sector, along with the prominence of the outdoor and active-wear market in our region, plus our holistic approach to educating our students across the entire product development supply-chain (“from dirt to shirt”), positions WSU AMDT uniquely for maximum industry impact. To continue and build on the success of the program, Department Chair Joan Ellis has been working closely with the AMDT Board of Advisors to inspire excellence in many important ways. After assessing the program’s strengths and challenges, developing a new strategic plan, and revamping curriculum to include student learning outcomes prescribed by industry, three areas of focus topped our list. As we innovate to propel our successful program to new, more ambitious heights, our priorities are: ■
Industry-Relevant Infrastructure
New facilities and cutting-edge equipment and technology that mirror industry standards.
Garment by Brenda Fitzgerald
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Student and Graduate Scholarships
Increased scholarship funding to recruit and retain high-merit students regardless of financial background.
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Faculty Excellence
World-class faculty to support a world-class program.
To lead the industry locally and globally, enduring partnerships are supremely important. With the help of our alumni, supporters, and friends, we will accomplish our priorities. We will make a positive impact on society through the fashion, apparel, and textiles industry and support our future’s treasure—the students of WSU, by Inspiring Excellence.
To help us make a difference today, please visit our website or contact Cindy Barnhart, at (509) 335-3764 or cindy.barnhart@wsu.edu.
Joan Ellis
Get to Know the Chair
TEACHING INTERESTS • Strategies in Merchandise Buying and Planning • Merchandising Analytics and Decision Making • Advanced Retail Management
Get to Know the Chair Once you get to know Joan Ellis, you’ll understand the movement underway in the department. Dr. Ellis’ energy for all things apparel fuels her progressive ideas for the department, a full teaching load, and her involvement in several national conferences. Surprisingly, Ellis hails from a region known for a different pace of life, where fashion is trumped by function, where “Rodeo Drive” is less “drive,” and more bronco riding and barrel racing. Raised in Billings, Montana, Ellis took a back door into the clothing industry. When she was a teenager in need of a part-time job, her father encouraged her to apply at the local sporting goods store. Ellis, a sports and outdoor recreation enthusiast, followed her dad’s advice. She started as a cashier, worked her way up to salesperson, and then designed window displays for the entire store. She eventually learned all facets of the business. This experience led Ellis to enroll in the Merchandising program at Colorado State University, where she earned a bachelor’s degree and a master’s degree. For her thesis, Ellis joined forces with Bruce Klepper, who owned Advanced Retail Management, where she led the implementation of retail merchandising systems. Her expertise not only landed her a graduate degree, but a job with the company. With business travel taking its toll, one of her mentors from CSU, Antigone Kotsiopulos, enticed her into pursuing a Ph.D. with a full-ride scholarship. The doctorate was in organizational development and focused on managing positive change.
Ellis joined WSU in 2001 as an assistant professor. Her affinity for teaching ideally suited her to lead AMDT 108, a required introductory course for students interested in AMDT. Thirteen years later, Ellis continues to teach this course, inspiring hundreds of students to explore the many facets of the industry. She has taught courses that complement her professional career, including merchandising, buying, and planning—courses she reluctantly shelved to make time for her lead administrative role in the department. Ellis achieved the rank of associate professor in 2007. In her most recent years at WSU, her mission has been to advance learning through blended and experiential education—a process where students spend equal time with real-world casework and studying principles or theory. She has a remarkably balanced approach to fashion, advocating for social responsibility by the industry and ethical consumption by consumers. In 2012, she published a paper in the Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management that sought to reconcile consumer demand for organic cotton apparel with retailers’ need for profit. More than thirty years after her initial foray into clothing, Ellis is coaching others who have spent time cashiering or designing window displays. Her experience is proof that this billion-dollar industry is filled with opportunity, made possible through education and hard work.
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STUDENT INTERNSHIPS
Gucci—New York, NY Hunter Dixon— New York, NY Adidas Golf Rep— Issaquah, WA Nordstrom— Baltimore, MD Tommy Hilfiger— New York, NY Nike—Portland, OR Kohl’s—Silverdale, WA
A student internship is an essential component for job readiness. Internships are an opportunity for students to blend classroom learning with industry application. Success in the classroom translates into a good grade; mistakes have contained consequences. In the real world, students begin to understand accountability, and experience a new level of rigor and satisfaction. This new understanding comes from contributing to an actual business, and applying what they learned in the classroom. AMDT students are diligent in finding internships that are a good fit for their strengths as well as their weaknesses, and they carefully narrow their choices to industries and disciplines for which they are most passionate. Students begin preparing for their internship by completing a pre-internship class in their junior or senior year. They are required to compose a cover letter and résumé, participate in mock interviews, and research companies and positions within the industry. Most students will complete their internships over summer session. The internship position and its job duties vary depending on the student’s area of interest, such as management, buying, designing, branding, or forecasting, to name a few. During the internship, students are required to complete assignments that foster learning and reflection about not only the company but also about themselves. For example, they keep a weekly journal of tasks that document successes and setbacks. Many students receive a job offer after their internship. We are looking forward to sharing more of the amazing journeys that our students take during their internships with our alumni and supporters.
Q. With whom and where did you complete your internship?
Q. What have you enjoyed most about being an AMDT major?
I interned in the Special Events department at Gucci, in their New York office.
The best thing about being an AMDT major is the encouraging environment to succeed and learn. AMDT courses are all very interactive, conversational, and challenging. The small classroom setting makes it very conducive to learning, creating good friendships, and getting to know your professors. Because of the great learning environment, and the encouraging push to succeed, it has been fun and such a great learning experience for me.
Q. What do you feel made you prepared for your internship?
Q & A: Janett Auh
Here are a few of the internships that students sought out and participated in last summer.
Having been heavily involved with AMDT department clubs and events, I learned the value of teamwork and leadership, and the importance of networking. In addition to my leadership background, the tools and skills gained through the AMDT courses gave me a foundation into understanding how this industry functions. Through my success in AMDT courses, as well as my involvement in several leadership roles, these experiences gave me the confidence and skills to feel prepared and equipped for the internship. Q. What do you see yourself doing in 10 years? The great thing about the apparel industry is the numerous career paths it has to offer. I have always had an interest in retail marketing and public relations; however, after several courses in the AMDT department, I became interested in buying and planning. Ten years from now, I hope to find myself in a senior buying position or as a retail marketing and public relations manager.
Q. What piece of advice would you give to a new AMDT student? The best piece of advice to incoming AMDT students would be to start preparing early. Get involved in leadership opportunities, and start looking for internships now. While it is important to enjoy college life, we forget that college is also about giving ourselves the time and skills to build our knowledge, and the capability to survive and succeed after college. Staying on top of school, being involved in clubs, and getting internships early, are all great ways to be ahead of the game!
“If you’re afraid to fail in it, then do it, because you are bound to learn something from it.”
Q. What design competitions have you participated in?
I really enjoy the sense of camaraderie among the design students. Especially now in the senior level, my graduating class is a close group of creative people who are excited to learn and grow together. I think this year’s fashion show will be the best yet!
I was a finalist in the Royal Fashion Design contest sponsored by Prince Harry’s charities. It was an event to raise money for breast cancer research, and was held last spring in California. I won an award in the WSU Showcase for Undergraduate Research and Creative Activities for my design work the previous fall semester. I am currently a finalist in the Lifestlyes in Cotton design contest sponsored by Cotton Incorporated.
Q. Who did you do your internship with and what was most exciting about it? I spent four months last summer working in the atelier, or design studio, of American designer Zac Posen. The atelier is located in New York City. It was my first time in the city, so the entire trip was an adventure. I enjoyed the whole thing! Every day I learned something new. I was actually able to work on garments in the collection, and did a lot of hand-painting on collection and customorder gowns. It was amazing to work with such a talented staff. Q. Where do you hope to be in 5 years? I want to be making creative things with creative people. That may mean working with an existing brand or forming my own brand. There is so much knowledge in the world, and I do not want to stop experiencing it.
Q. Do you have any competitions this semester? Yes, I am entering my work in the competition at Dallas Career Day and the Arts of Fashion. It will be a lot of extra work on top of my senior collection and Honors thesis, but I am excited to be consumed in the creative process. Q. Is there a particular area in design that you enjoy most? I truly enjoy each step of the design process. From sketching to pattern drafting, to garment construction and embellishments, I do it all. I love taking an intangible mental image and being able to construct this idea so that others can see it too. I have found my true calling in design and am excited take on the future.
Q. Have you participated in any design competitions? My sophomore year I participated in a t-shirt design competition, which was held by the Student Book Corporation (“the Bookie”). I had to design a t-shirt logo that incorporated the WSU team colors and a design that best fit a basketball theme. As the winning design, my logo was printed on 600 t-shirts that were thrown to the crowd during half time at a WSU basketball game. Q. What do you like most about being an AMDT major?
Q & A: Anthony Melo
Q & A: Gordon Stumpo
Q. What do you love most about being an AMDT major?
As an apparel design major, I enjoy the freedom of expressing my creativity. Being able to test my creative mindset to see how far I can go with limited inspiration is so rewarding. I also enjoy the ability to interact with creative people. Just to hear the reason why they designed a certain thing and where they got their inspiration blows my mind. Everyone thinks outside the box, including our helpful faculty. Q. Is there a particular area in design that you enjoy most? Sportswear is a design area that is, by far, my favorite. The aesthetics are far more appealing and advanced than ever before. I enjoy sportswear because it not only considers fashion but also addresses consumers’ needs. Q. What are some design aspects we can look forward to seeing in your future designs? As a designer your ideas are always evolving. My job is to stay current with what is going on with the world. Politics, technology, art, architecture, music, and culture are all topics that play a big role in design. My view of the industry now is that consumers want to see cutting-edge designs that are minimalistic, yet powerful and evocative. Playing around with sustainable fabrics to create a visible eco-fashion look, as well as utilizing different textures, is also something I want to incorporate in my designs.
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Social Clubbing
Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles P.O. Box 642020 Pullman, WA 99164-2020
The Department of Apparel, Merchandising, Design and Textiles has active student organizations that offer a wide range of activities in which students can participate. These organizations focus on philanthropy, departmental engagement, and workshops to enhance the student’s university experience and industry awareness. This includes workshops on résumé building, social media and the job search, and internship panels. In a recent panel organized by our student clubs, members brought together a diverse group of students to share their experiences working as design or merchandising interns at companies such as Gucci, Kohl’s, Zac Posen, and regional screen printing shops. Students could learn from one another and help answer common questions about internships in the apparel industry. Student clubs are also philanthropic opportunities. The Circle of Love is an annual project that creates fun, brightly colored
PULLMAN, WA PERMIT NO. 1
surgical caps for children who have cancer. Students cut, sew, and wrap each cap with a special tag to help bring a little joy to a child facing a difficult time in his or her life. The organizations also participate in food and clothing drives during the holiday season to help local people in need. In addition to these activities, student clubs also put on events just for fun. In a recent event, students learned the techniques of dyeing fabrics and clothing. These techniques ranged from classic tie-dye to Japanese shibori. Even though it appeared purely recreational, the activity taught students about the nuanced processes of fabric dying. Perhaps the most well-known AMDT event is the annual Mom’s Weekend Fashion Show (this year on April 11). Student organizations unite to help produce the show, and manage all facets of the event, including finding models, selecting music, contacting sponsors, and assisting with marketing.