When it comes to the luxurious coastal lifestyle, nobody is better at it than Catherine Gee. The designer, who is known for her resort-driven collections with a city edge, found inspiration for her Spring/Summer 2025 collection in “getting creative with color and ‘letting it sing.’” For more looks, see page 3.
By Christian Chensvold Associate Editor
It was a magical time, that great retail heyday some 20 years ago when people got off the plane at LAX and the first stop on their trip was Lisa Kline’s trendsetting retail store on Robertson Boulevard.
At the peak of her empire, Kline operated six stores and had a staff of 85, but when the economic and retail winds changed direction she closed her shops one by one, the last in 2011. Today she’s a sought-after retail consultant with strong opinions on the present state of fashion and retail, not to mention her radical concept for what L.A. needs at the present moment. The California Apparel News caught up with the legendary fashionista to find out more.
➥ Lisa Kline page 4
Selecting designers isn’t easy for Arts Hearts Fashion founder Erik Rosete, but he delivered on his process yet again with a high-buzz fashion showcase Oct. 17–19 at The New Mart in downtown Los Angeles.
“We look for innovative talent that not only brings a unique perspective but also resonates with the spirit of our community,” Rosete said. “We balance emerging and established designers to create a powerful mix. It’s a challenge, but it’s incredibly rewarding to see diverse voices take the stage.”
The designers included this season were Alexis Monsanto, Amara Art Fashion, Amour Verte, Baez, Coral Castillo, Cross Colours, David Tupaz, Diana Couture, Diyanni
San Francisco–headquartered Levi Strauss & Co. has signed the Pakistan Accord, an agreement that supports safe working conditions for garment workers in the country. The Pakistan Accord echoes the intent of the Bangladesh Accord, which was introduced following the catastrophic Rana Plaza factory disaster in 2013, where more than 1,100 garment workers were killed.
“The signing of the Pakistan Accord by Levi’s marks a critical moment for American brands stepping up to protect their workers,” said Emily Stochl, vice president of advocacy for Los Angeles–based Remake, the apparel-industry nonprofit that advocates for a sustainable and ethical fashion business.
Levi’s joins other California-based signatories of the Pakistan Accord including Colosseum Athletics, Gap Inc., Uscape Apparel and Vantage Apparel
“Since the Pakistan Accord’s introduction, Remake’s global ambassador core of [more than 2,000] change makers has been proud to
lock arms with workers campaigning for the accord’s essential workplace-safety protections, calling on the world’s largest fashion brands to do the right thing and keep their workers safe,” Stochl said. “This victory is a reminder that sustained collective activism works—and when garment workers, advocates and brands come together we can create a fashion industry that prioritizes the safety
and dignity of its workers.”
Remake shared its thoughts regarding the Levi’s news in an Oct. 17 announcement during which the nonprofit noted that its campaign to move the apparel brand to sign onto the accord was part of a larger movement. The campaign included other like-minded organizations such as Ekō and the Clean Clothes Campaign, comprising a coalition that gathered nearly 70,000 signatures to encourage Levi’s to make this change.
The news of Levi’s signing onto the Pakistan Accord came on the heels of the company’s Oct. 15 announcement appointing Daniel Geballe to the board of directors, effective April 26, 2025, after the retirement of David Friedman. Geballe is the managing director at SJF Ventures, a role in which he leads investments in emerging companies that focus on positive social and environmental change. He has also served on the Levi Strauss Foundation board as a member, vice president and chair of the finance committee.—Dorothy Crouch
Circularity may be a new word, but it’s not a new concept. Goodwill Industries has been doing it for over a century, and now the largest workforce development network and secondhand retailer in the U.S. is ramping up its efforts even more thanks to a new partnership with WM, provider of comprehensive environmental solutions, and Reju, the progressive textile-to-textile regeneration company.
“With our 120-year legacy as a leader in circularity,” said Steve Preston, president and CEO of Goodwill Industries International, “Goodwill is positioning our local nonprofit enterprises at the forefront of creating sys-
tems for textile recycling and recovery.”
Goodwill, WM and Reju plan to work together to collect, sort and grade discarded textiles for resale. Items not suitable for resale can then be recycled and regenerated into new materials upon the completion of a new U.S. facility by Reju, whose primary facility is in Frankfurt, Germany. The program is intended to contribute to creating a circular textile-to-textile ecosystem.
Owned by Technip Energies and relying on technology originating with IBM research, Reju is developing the infrastructure to regenerate waste at scale, starting with
polyester. The end product, Reju Polyester, is expected to have a 50 percent lower carbon footprint than virgin polyester and can be regenerated infinitely.
“To tackle the challenges posed by discarded textiles, we need radical collaboration and cooperation, and through our potential project with Goodwill and WM we are building the ecosystem to achieve textile circularity,” said Patrik Frisk, CEO of Reju.
“Reuse is, and will continue to be, the highest value and is essential to the circular economic model for the benefit of all,” Frisk continued. “Yet among the products that are not reused, less than 1 percent are recycled globally today. A textile-to-textile circular ecosystem can only be optimized when more textiles are diverted from the waste stream and into the recovery cycle.”
The Goodwill network plays a critical role in powering the circular economy, having recovered over 4.3 billion pounds of donated products in 2023, which supported the development of skills training, job placement, career-advancement opportunities and other community-based services for more than 1.7 million people.—Christian Chensvold
Atlanta Apparel, which ran Oct, 15–18, saw brisk writing for Immediates across over 3,320 brands. “Spring starts in Atlanta every October, and Atlanta Apparel once again successfully brought together buyers and sellers to write for the upcoming season as well as close out any Holiday orders,” said Caron Stover, ANDMORE’s SVP, Apparel. “We also saw a strong demand for Immediates from stores impacted by the recent hurricanes who came to Atlanta even at a difficult time to rebuild inventory.” The October edition of Atlanta Apparel drew buyers from across the country, welcoming visitors from 36 states and 11 international countries, with 18 percent of attendees new-to-market buyers.
BELLA+CANVAS announced that it has been awarded Fair Labor Accreditation by the Fair Labor Association, an international network of organizations dedicated to promoting human rights in the workplace. A FLA member since 2019, the company has since proven its commitment to the people working in its eight facilities plus two contract facilities located in three countries. “From the time they joined, BELLA+CANVAS has been in the vanguard of responsible purchasing practices,” said FLA President and CEO Jeff Vockrodt. “In my 25 years in the apparel industry, I have found it widely recognized that Fair Label Accreditation is the penultimate North Star regarding fair-labor policies, sustainability in manufacturing and ethical business practices,” added BELLA+CANVAS President Norm Hullinger.
Dallas Market Center has announced the first set of exhibitors for the Nearshoring America EXPO, an international trade show designed to facilitate nearshoring production services. The inaugural event, which will take place at the DMC Dec. 9–11, will connect brands and their representatives with factories and service providers from Mexico and Latin America. “We are thrilled to announce an impressive lineup of exhibitors for our first Nearshoring America EXPO,” said Cindy Morris, president and CEO of Dallas Market Center. “These organizations underscore the importance and timeliness of this event. These exhibitors represent the cream of the crop in nearshoring opportunities, offering our attendees unparalleled access to vetted, high-quality manufacturing and service options closer to home.”
Jeanologia, a global leader in innovation and sustainability, is celebrating 25 years since the invention of its groundbreaking laser technology that transformed the denim industry. Since its inception, the company has led the way in driving a worldwide shift in how jeans are produced and finished, committed to enhancing efficiency, quality and sustainability. Jeanologia disrupted the industry in 1999 with an innovation that would change everything—the introduction of laser technology to create finishes and effects on denim garments. This breakthrough eliminated hazardous manual techniques and harmful chemicals, paving the way for more-efficient, eco-friendly production. The impact was immediate and became the global standard. Today, 50 percent of the world’s denim production relies on Jeanologia’s laser technology, with the company aiming to reach 100 percent in the next five years.
Shifting from the cool, chic styles of autumn to a spring renewal in fashion comes naturally to Catherine Gee, whose Spring/Summer 2025 collection follows a fresh take on her familiar theme—luxurious coastal lifestyle. The Santa Barbara, Calif., designer thrives along the coast, whether at home along the American Riviera or visiting locales such as Italy’s Sardinia, Greece or Croatia.
“I am a resort-driven Spring/Summer brand but have a city edge with my Fall/Winter collection, which is highly intentional,” explained Gee. “Getting back to designing Spring/ Summer ’25 was going back to my roots and getting really creative with color and letting it sing.”
Allowing colors inspired by Greece’s Cyclades Islands to “sing” through her collection brought Gee’s vision to life. One of the first pieces Gee designed for the collection was the Milos Dress, a floor-length, bias-cut silk slip design in two-toned blues that bring to mind the colors of the Aegean Sea.
“It was one of the first pieces I did in the whole collection, and I did it with my patternmaker in L.A.,” Gee said. “Blue is my favorite color, and I chose those two hues specifically for the setting where I knew we’d be shooting it. The flow and cut are so different.”
Fresh designs in the collection also include a number of styles in the designer’s Orange Tropical pattern on linen, featuring flora such as lilies and palms on a bright orange. The pattern is featured on the Symi Dress, Summerland Crop Top,
Jumpsuit and Silk Short in addition to the Alexa Tank and the popular Stella Pant, a customer favorite since Gee’s early days. The Penelope Blouse, a laser-cut look in a cotton-twill, short-sleeve button-down pairs beautifully with the Savannah Short with a scalloped hem.
Gee also introduced her Bolero Jacket in the Parrot pattern featuring an array of tropical birds that the designer also applied to her classic Margot Car Coat and Stella Pant. The Athena Dress, available in a pink-hued punch, medium blue and cerulean blue, is a play on the long slip-dress styles for which Gee is known and encourages the wearer to channel the goddess within.
This empowered approach to fashion is a trend that Gee sees gaining momentum throughout 2025 as women invest more in themselves and how they step out into the world each day.
“There’s going to be an optimism. It’s going to be a response to fast fashion. People are going to slow down. Women are going to be more intentional regarding how they present themselves. I like the term ‘quiet luxury’ because less is more and people are going to choose quality over quantity,” noted Gee. “We’re going to see a lot of power dressing, whether that be monochromatic statements, bold color choices or a pop of an interesting print.”—Dorothy Crouch
Surf, Edher Gin, Gray, Jesse J Collections, Kenneth Barlis, Kentaro Kameyama, Mac Divot, Milla Stone, Mister Triple X, Merlin Castell, Mondo Guerra, No Name, Odair Pereira, Pellone Collection, Scotch & Soda, Steve Madden and Willfredo Gerardo.
“This season, the energy was palpable,” Rosete said of the show. “The incredible synergy between designers, models and the audience created unforgettable moments, and the level of artistry was inspiring. Seeing how the community came together to celebrate fashion and self-expression was beyond thrilling.”
The show’s particular synergy and artistry were also unmistakably Los Angeles.
“L.A.’s laid-back vibe and its bold, unapologetic style shone through,” said Rosete. “From vibrant streetwear to high-glam looks, every designer brought a piece of L.A.’s eclectic culture to the runway, embodying the freedom and creativity the city is known for.”
Founded in 2010, Art Hearts Fashion is a leading platform for innovative designers with shows held in New York, Los Angeles, Miami and Las Vegas. “We’re excited to expand our reach with upcoming shows in new cities and a deeper dive into lifestyle experiences,” said Rosete in a hint of his future plans. “We’ll also be bringing our community together for an immersive event at Art Basel, blending art, fashion and culture in fresh ways.”
—Christian Chensvold
CAN: You had a meteoric rise followed by a dramatic pullback. What was the whole whirlwind like?
LK: The stores were just the most incredible experience. We launched hundreds of brands, and at our peak we were doing half a million dollars per month just at the flagship store, which was unheard of. We couldn’t make a mistake in our buying. It was a huge operation, every celebrity was coming in, and people all over the world came to see what brands we had and copy us. I’d go to trade shows and people would introduce themselves saying, “I’m the Lisa Kline of Connecticut!” And I would go, “Okay…” It was just funny.
CAN: Where is retail now, and how did we get here?
LK: Everything in the world has changed. People say it’s the internet, but it’s so many other things. The writer’s strike and crash of 2008 changed the way people spend money, and the creation of boutique magic cannot be recreated online. You need a multi-experience in order to get people to shop because I don’t think they’re shopping just to go shopping in the age of Poshmark, Farfetch and The Real Real. A place needs to have a bunch of stuff going on that drives people who are going there for a lot of reasons. Maybe someone comes in for flowers, coffee or dog stuff and then buys clothes. It has to be dynamic. You have to capture retail in a way that’s not to be expected.
CAN: Who’s thriving in this challenging retail environment?
LK: In the nontraditional space, since 2017 I’ve curated the gift shop at Shutters On The Beach, the iconic hotel in Santa Monica. I created the whole retail concept from scratch and increased their volume over 100 percent. A lot of locals come in, having figured out that I curate it. We sell a lot of branded apparel, a ton of cashmere, and it’s
kind of funny but we started buying items with a little of the Western flair, with horses and things, and it’s selling, which has been surprising in a good way because it’s outside the whole beach thing.
CAN: And what about the world of fashion boutiques?
LK: In May of last year Leanna Drammer opened Lou Los Olivos in the town of Los Olivos, and I began helping her with merchandising, buying smarter and how to talk to the reps with my history of relationships that you just can’t buy. I think it’s important to do clothing stores according to where they’re located, and this has a high-end ranch and wine-country vibe. She was able to acquire the space next door and just opened a men’s section. Most of her customers are married and walking around together, so she felt very good about men’s, which I love doing. We have brands like Rag & Bone and John Varvatos that everyone will know and then things like a really cool new Japanese denim brand called Hiroshi Kato.
CAN: Why has it worked for her?
LK: The town is an amazing community, and retail works in a small town. Every time I go there I see the same people, and they come in to say hi and also to spend money. People are excited to support each other’s endeavors; they’re friends, and they’re also customers. And I love being in an area where there’s life and action and traffic and people loving the curation that she does. And I know here men’s will do well. Leanna loves having a store and works her tail off and can’t wait to just grow, grow, grow. It’s fun to help her.
CAN: What do you think L.A. needs? What would make a big splash?
LK: I just looked at spaces two months ago for a concept I’ve been developing for six years. It has 21 highly curated categories, similar to how you shop online and kind of like a mini-curated department store. But it would need a big space and a lot of money to do. And a parking lot and security! ●
By Kelli Freeman Contributing Writer
Attendance was steady with new and returning buyers from specialty to big-box stores at L.A. Market, held Oct. 7–10.
Buyers looking for trendy to luxury found a vast selection of innovative looks for Spring 2025. New brands and showrooms opened at the California Market Center, Cooper Design Space and The New Mart coupled with the return of the Brand Assembly and Designer and Agents shows.
Stripes, florals and pastels were on trend for Spring ’25 along with oversized pieces, interesting layering, a mixing of prints and textures, and new takes on denim.
An abundance of activations enhanced the experience, including a 100th anniversary celebration at the Cooper.
New showrooms at the CMC included Free People, busy with its made-in-L.A. high-volume seamless-line tank cami. The brand also launched a floral-print washed-out barrel jean with a “We the Free” stitched logo on the back pocket priced at $58.
New York–based Elle Generation by 37 Orchard launched its Spring collection, which included a rayon/poly 12-gauge pointelle sweater-knit top at $27.50 and a matching ruffled, detailed tiered pointelle short at $31.50.
Los Angeles–based Emory Park held its grand opening in its permanent showroom displaying whimsical mini dresses and a leopard print maxi dress with twisted-knot strap and high slit priced at $27.
“Buyers from the West Coast and Southwest included Revolve, M.Fredric, Walla Walla Clothing, Saint Lo, Pink Arrow Boutique, Dillard’s and Hyatt Hotels,” said Sue Bhanubandh, director of leasing at the California Market Center.
Cooper celebrates 100 years
The Cooper celebrated its centennial with a 1920s flappers and zoot suit–themed party in the lobby. “I am so happy to be part of the 2024 L.A. Market and the 100th anniversary of the
Cooper Building and Cooper Design Space. It’s one of our best-attended markets in years. I can’t wait for January market,” said Margot Garcia, Cooper’s general manager.
The Marked Showroom displayed a made–in-Los Angeles red-and-black collection for Holiday from Sunday Ritual that included a stretch flair pant with a front seam and a dropwaist sleeveless off-the-shoulder dress, both priced at $49.
The 8thStory Showroom was new to the Cooper and featured the Los Angeles–based Line & Dot comfortable and timeless brand. Its denim capsule included must-have pieces that were both soft and breathable complemented by custom all-over-print dresses and jumpsuits for a versatile, feminine look priced at $59–$79.
The mood was lively at the October edition of Brand Assembly. Brands showcased footwear to headwear, accessories, unique housewares, and luscious alpaca and Italian knitwear.
Showstoppers included the Los Angeles–based and -manufactured Stoned Immaculate with its high-waisted extra-big bell-bottom denim pants with embroidery and antique rust studs priced at $154 and its Isla Bonita merinowool and shiny lurex top at $123.
“I got in an immediate order from Stoned Immaculate, and I’m almost completely sold out already,” said Allison Thompson, owner of Allison [in wine country] in St. Helena, Calif.
A top seller for Torrance, Calif.–based Pool to Party was the leafy Myranda-print scarf in lurex with tassels made into a dress priced at $48.
La Plage Miami debuted its first Los Angeles edition at Brand Assembly. “We’re trying this market for the first time showing our European premium-level Soraya Swimwear, Raffaela D’Angelo and Atelier Bombay resort, beach and swimwear brands,” said owner Marc Merklen.
“Everybody’s excited. We came off of a really good New York Market, and we’re consistently growing incrementally show over show,” said Hillary France, co-founder and CEO of Brand Assembly.
“Market was particularly successful for The New Mart. “Buyer attendance was solid and the mood was upbeat,” said Tom Keefer, general manager, who added that they welcomed no less than 100 new brands to exhibit either in available showrooms or through Designers and Agents.
The blue-and-black lunar textured-stripe blazer at $99 and high-rise short at $63 from Amsterdam-based Scotch & Soda at the M Group Showroom turned heads.
Made–in–Los Angeles denim brand Etienne Marcel at the Gorrilla Showroom featured a wide-leg stretch pant with pork-chop pockets for $115 and a high-low cotton top with side zip at $95.
Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising graduate Kay Fernando created a full American Jeans denim collection made in San Pedro, Calif., using Candiani Italian denim and brass buttons. Basic denim shirts to couture designs were priced at $112–$325.
Designers and Agents pleases with high-end luxury
New collections at D&A included Susanne Bommer, Le Sarte Pettegole, Robert Friedman and Caliban Diega, made in Morocco, offered a cool-blue-and-white plaid suit in 100 percent linen. The jacket was priced at $164 and the pant at $123.
At the New York–based and -manufactured Love Binetti a ’50s-inspired empire-waist Millie cocktail dress with French-lace trim, a pleated front and fan-out embroidered bottom priced at $350 was flying off the shelves.
The reason behind the show’s success? “We have a screening committee, we know exactly what our market is, we’re not tempted to just rent another booth, we stay true to who really belongs here so when they leave they can go away with a smile,” said Ed Mandelbaum, president of Designers and Agents. ●
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The Evans Group (TEG) is a reputable LA-based fashion development and production house catering to both established and emerging designers. The company operates an acclaimed vertically integrated facility in the Arts District of Los Angeles, crafting patterns, samples, and small-volume productions. As a premier cut and sew manufacturer, TEG specializes in bringing client designs to life with precision and excellence. For a comprehensive launch experience, services include design, fabric and trim sourcing, marketing, and mentorship. Since its establishment in 2005, TEG has assisted close to 4,000 clothing brands, generating over 30 year-round living-wage jobs.
The Artistic Milliners ecosystem is the conglomerate of the future, an expansive suite of solutions representing the intersection of a digitallyforward ethos for responsible design, manufacturing, sourcing and renewable energy. Along with Star Fades International, the L.A.–based custom wash and finishing facility, the company’s global footprint includes Artistic Energy, Artistic Lab, Soho Incubator in New York and now Artmill, a pivot into the premium wovens space. The customdesigned plant is equipped with leading-edge European machinery and can produce 2.2 million yards of fabric across multiple fabrications, blends and finishes. Artmill signifying the next echelon of innovation and technological advancement for AM.
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Fabric Merchants is a leading wholesale fabric supplier based in Los Angeles. Its customers benefit from the tens of thousands of yards brought into its
“Does this look good on me?” Artificial intelligence may have the answer to that perennial fashion question, along with a lot of other things, thanks in part to a new innovation from Lectra. The company has announced its support of the transition toward Industry 4.0 of the apparel industry with the launch of Valia Fashion, a new intelligent digital platform that combines the power of artificial intelligence with Lectra’s unique expertise.
Valia Fashion streamlines each stage of production, from order processing to fabric cutting, while optimizing the use of materials. It also revolutionizes the fashion ecosystem, Lectra states, by breaking down the barriers between the various industrialization and production processes to better meet the requirements of brands, manufacturers and subcontractors.
“Valia Fashion represents a major technological breakthrough as, thanks to artificial intelligence, it truly brings fashion players into a new era, that of Industry 4.0,” said Maximilien Abadie, chief strategy officer and chief product officer at Lectra. “It will help them make a leap forward that goes beyond any advance made in recent decades. We have combined our expertise in the fashion industry with the power of artificial intelligence to enable our customers to collaborate more efficiently, preserve their margins and boost their growth, all while meeting the requirements of sustainable development, which are increasingly demanding in the fashion industry.”
Faced with the technological challenges posed by the transformation of a market constantly requiring more agility and cost
control, Lectra announced, the transition to Industry 4.0 is a key factor in the performance, profitability and sustainability of production processes. Valia Fashion enables brands, manufacturers and subcontractors to adapt more quickly to market drivers such as the rise of online shopping, popularity of personalized products, rapid evolution of trends, costly inventory management, and an increased focus on price as well as environmental and social issues. The platform makes it possible to digitalize the entire fashion production flow, giving players freedom from geographical constraints, reduction in manual labor and all-around efficiency.
“Valia Fashion has no equivalent on the market,” said Abadie.—Christian Chensvold
Los Angeles–based Ambercycle, the textile-to-textile recycling company and maker of cycora regenerated polyester, opened the doors to its new lab in the West Adams neighborhood and hosted on-site tours of its facility for local apparel-industry insiders. The materials-sciences company is promoting supplychain transparency in the apparel industry.
“We need to engage with the community. We need to engage with the supply chain. If we are just on some island somewhere developing this technology and can’t implement it, it would be difficult to enact the kind of change Shay [Sethi, co-founder and chief executive officer] and I wanted to make from day one,” explained Moby Ahmed, co-founder and chief technology officer. “The key thing is that there are so many stakeholders and so many community members that are involved in this global industry.”
The Sept. 22 tour allowed guests to see how Ambercycle is closing the loop on apparel through its technology. Its advancements in textile-to-textile recycling produce a recycled polyester, but the end product is also recyclable through the company. Ahmed shared that the company holds values of not only educating others but also becoming educated regarding how it can help move the needle toward a circular apparel economy.
“Decarbonizing the apparel industry is a monumental task,” said Ahmed. “What the industry is realizing—what we are all realizing—is that we have to work together to make it happen. That is how we are going to achieve this goal. There is cross talk and community-building behavior that is really
beneficial, and it’s only going to benefit us and our material brand cycora—the regenerated alternative to conventional polyester— that we make sure community is at the heart of that brand.”
Ambercycle’s strategy paid off in 2024 through agreements and partnerships with Arc’teryx, Reformation , Gap, Hyosung, MAS Holdings and GANNI . It entered partnerships in October with both Arc’teryx and Reformation to incorporate cycora into their products. Gap Inc. and Ambercycle announced in March that cycora will be used to create Athleta products by 2026.
—Dorothy Crouch
* SALES REPRESENTATIVES *
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