may 2018
issue no.1
M A G A Z I N E
F O R
F O O D I E S
HONG KONG EAT-UP GUIDE
FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS
issue no.1
hong kong eat-up guide
editor in chief
Tasha ou creative director
William Millor assistant editor
Alex Torakita CHRISTOPHER DEWOLF
senior graphic designer
Lou Wilson feature editor
Nick Kennedy
advertiseing director
Austin Janson
A writer and photographer. Born and raised in Canada, he has written articles on urban issues, art, culture, politics, and business for newspapers such as Montreal Gazette, Maisonneuve, Spacing, Muse, and the South China Morning Post. After many long trips to Hong Kong, he finally lost to the temptation of neon lights and hot milk tea and moved to Hong Kong in 2008.
staff photographer
Evangeline Belzile
KATE SPRINGER
A Hong Kong-based freelance journalist who covers travel, food, culture, architecture and urban innovation. Her work has been published by Condé Nast Traveler, CNN, National Geographic Travel, USA Today, BBC Travel, Vogue, Sotheby’s, Forbes Travel Guide, Fodor’s, Munchies, Time Out, and more.
publishers
CDS Studio Crave Magazine Ltd MassArt Inc.
ZOE LI
This Chinese-Canadian floated around Hong Kong, Vancouver, Montreal, and Beijing, writing mostly about Chinese food for publications such as That’s Beijing, Appetite Magazine, Lonely Planet, and Fodor’s Travel Guides.Now she writes about art, culture and more food.
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DOUG MEIGS
A freelance writer/photographer based in Hong Kong. His curiosity for all things, particularly art, nature, culture and leisure, has carried his byline across myriad topics and countries.
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IN THIS ISSUE
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08
Explore Hong Kong’s History Through its Food
Preserved in time
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12
A saucy experience
Your essential travel guide to Hong Kong
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22
Hong Kong’s best dim sum: How to yum cha like a Cantonese
Dim sum dining tips
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31
It’s a street food world
All I Know is That I Don’t Know Nothing (And That’s Okay)
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45
The Food Cart Called Desire
Essential Satisfaction
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60
Hong Kong’s wildest dining experience
Blur the boundary between dining and art
hong kong’s best dim sum
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local food market in hong kong
Explore Hong Kong’s History Through its Food kate springer
Shops open and close in the blink of an eye. Skyscrapers spring up out of nowhere. The skyline never remains the same for long. Unlike cities with old bones — such as London and Paris — there aren’t as many tangible artifacts in this Asian metrxopolis of 8 million people. The most reliable Hong Kong history comes not in museums or architecture, but rather, in the form of food. “If you want to experience Hong Kong of the 1960s, you really have to look at food because
it’s mainly the food that has survived intact,” says Daisann McLane, who runs food concierge and experiential tour company Little Adventures in Hong Kong. The group’s food and culture walks take travelers into the delicious underbelly of Cantonese life — uncovering everything from cafes and bakeries to markets and tea shops. McLane tells CNN Travel the stories behind some of her favorite Hong Kong food experiences — and what they reveal about the city’s colorful history.
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Dried fish served as a kitchen staple, offering sustenance to sailors on long voyages and an accessible source of protein for Chinese villagers.
some dried fish are very cheap and therefore ,
make a good substitute
to relatively expensive , fresh seafood .
Preserved in time Before Hong Kong was a British colony, a manufacturing city or a buzzing finance capital, the territory was primarily inhabited by fishermen. In its earliest days, before it became known as “Hong Kong,” the territory was a strategic port for European and Asian sailors — not to mention pirates — often used as a rest stop on long voyages. The dried fish found in Hong Kong, and the surrounding region, was extremely valuable. In a pre-refrigeration age, haam yu served as a kitchen staple, offering sustenance to sailors on long voyages and an accessible source of protein for Chinese villagers. “Whenever I see the dried fish hanging by the side of the road — the dried fish on the red ribbons — those were one of the original products 10
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of Hong Kong island and the Pearl River Delta region,” says McLane. “The age of sailing wouldn’t have been possible without these dried foods to keep people alive during long voyages.” The deep-rooted industry is still omnipreent today, especially in the dried food streets in Sai Ying Pun where travelers go to get a whiff of the past.
Cafe society By the mid 1950s, a lot had changed in Hong Kong. The British having planted their flag in 1841, colonialism was well under way. After World War II, Chinese immigrants poured into Hong Kong, fleeing the communist takeover and the Great Leap Forward famines of the 50s and early 60s.
As Hong Kong recovered from the war, it selves on the eating culture, so you had to have turned to manufacturing —which ushered the fast food for these people who only had a short city into an era of development and productivity. break for lunch,” says McLane. Factories boomed and the population swelled, At the time, you could find a cha chaan teng just as globalization was taking hold around the on every corner, serving simple white bread world. sandwiches, pork chops, and milk teas as the Coupled with an influx of factory-produced go-to snacks. foods like white bread, peanut butter, evaporatStill today, the menus are chock-full of delied milk and instant noodles, the factory created cious cultural amalgamations like egg tarts, Hong a unique culinary experience that encapsulates Kong-style French toast, and yuanyang milk tea this era: the cha chaan teng diner. — a mix of strong black tea and coffee. “The modern Hong Kong we see today has its origins in post 50s Hong Kong,” says McLane. “And one of the major changes we see is the explosion of popularity of the Hong Kong coffee shop, the cha chaan teng. Although there were cha chaan tengs as far back the 1920s, they really came into their own in post-war Hong Kong, and are specific to that historical moment.” “The rhythms of the factory imposed them-
cross cafe
@
47-48
high st , sai ying pun , hong kong
You can sit in a cha chaan teng and have peanut butter and condensed milk on toast, and a milk tea, and from there you can go through 75 years of Hong Kong history.
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“You can sit in a cha chaan teng and have peanut butter and condensed milk on toast, and a milk tea, and from there you can go through 75 years of Hong Kong history.”
A saucy experience Made from the first pressing of fermented soy beans, these are generally most expensive than other typse of soy sauce. These soy sauces are meant to enhance flavors when cooking. It’s by far the most common cooking sauce in Chinese cuisine.
Darker in color and thicker in texture, but tend to be lighter in saltiness. They are generally fermented for a longer period of time and often have added sugar or molasses. They are used solely for cooking, often added at the last stages to season and add color to sauces.
Seasoned soy sauce for seafood is known as seasoned soy sauce for steamed fish. It is a special type of soy sauce intended to be used with Chinese steamed fish. Its flavor is very similar to that of light soy sauce, but is a bit less salty and slightly sweet.
Tamari is made with no (or very little) wheat, while traditional soy sauce does contain wheat. It is specifically a Japanese form of soy sauce, traditionally made as a byproduct of miso paste. Tamari has a darker color and richer flavor than the common Chinese soy sauce. 12
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Often overlooked but essential to the Hong Kong culinary experience is Soy Sauce Western cuisine — immortalized in Wong Kar-wai’s famous film “In the Mood for Love.”
They may have quirks in spades, but Soy Sauce Western restaurants are becoming a rare species these days — so try one while you still can. Like an upscale version of cha chaan teng dining, this hybrid dining style started booming in the 1950s and 60s. “The elite of Hong Kong had traveled around Europe and to the UK. They came back to Hong Kong with a more cosmopolitan taste for things like steak, and wanted to eat things that reminded them of their trips,” says McLane. Answering the call, Cantonese cooks from international hotels like the Mandarin Oriental and The Peninsula took what they knew of Western cooking and opened their own Soy Sauce Western restaurants — complete with tuxedo-clad waiters, tableside service and crisp tablecloths. But in the process of adapting Western food for Cantonese palates, the experience became like a caricature of the real deal -- not unlike eating “Chinese” food in the United States. “For a Westerner, it’s like going to a restaurant where time stopped in 1955 because they’re still serving meat, potatoes, Cobb salads, soufflés — things you’d never see on menus anymore,” says McLane. “In terms of culinary history, it’s a unique expression of Hong Kong people of that time, and
their aspirations — cosmopolitanism.” They may have quirks in spades, but Soy Sauce Western restaurants are becoming a rare species these days — so try one while you still can.
Introducing Cantonese 2.0 Hong Kong’s culinary story wouldn’t be complete without a taste of contemporary Cantonese cuisine. Over the past five years, the Cantonese food landscape has never been more exciting. Enter “Modern Cantonese” — a new breed of restaurants in Hong Kong that pays tribute to age-old recipes, updating them with premium ingredients, unexpected flavor combinations and playful presentations. “You are getting this younger generation of chefs who are pushing the cuisine, rethinking it but not making fusion food,” says McLane. She says the movement began with Lau Kin Wai, the author, food historian and restaurateur behind Kin’s Kitchen — a Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant who pioneered the private kitchen scene in Hong Kong. Innovative chefs like Lau Chun — Kin Wai’s son, who helms the kitchen are designing small
menus and resurrecting labor intensive dishes that had fallen out of fashion. “Given that Cantonese cooking is so tradition bound, this is nothing short of a revolution,” says McLane. “I don’t think there was any point in Hong Kong history that has been this creative and intellectually radical — unless perhaps the emergence of the modern cha chaan teng in the 1950s and 60s.”
You are getting this younger generation of chefs who are pushing the cuisine, rethinking it but nxot making fusion food.
resturants often have large glass windows in the storefront to display siu mei (roasted meat )
.
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YOUR ESSENTIAL TRAVEL GUIDE TO
Hong Hong Kong Kong Things you need
Visa (for some countries)
Hong Kong Dollars
Cantonese and English
Average weather forcast Best time to go
Basic Cantonese
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Bucket List
THANK YOU
HELLO
唔該 (umm goi)
你好 (ney ho)
YOU’RE WELCOME
GOODBYE
唔洗客氣 (umm sai hak hey)
拜拜 (bye bye)
DELICIOUS!
HOW MUCH?
好味！ (ho mei)
幾多錢？ (gei dor chinn)
Check out the temple street night market Hike the dragon’s back on the Hong Kong trail Enjoy meal at a dai pai dong Ecperience the incredible views from the top of the peak Charter a junk boat
Things to taste
Fried Stuffed Trio
Curry Fish Balls
煎釀三寶
咖喱魚蛋
Waffles 格仔餅
Things to see
Sticky Rice Pudding
Mini Egg Puffs
砵仔糕
雞蛋仔
Steamed Rice Roll
Roasted Chestnuts
腸粉
炒栗子
Stinky Tofu 臭豆腐
Tung Ping Chau Yan Chau Tong Marine Park
Pat Sin Leng Country Park Kadoorie Farm and Botanic Garden Lion Rock Country Park
new territories 新界
kowloon 九龍
Hong Kong Science Museum
Tin Ha Shan lantau island 大嶼山
Hong Kong Space Museum
hong kong island 香港島
Tung Lung Fort Special Area Lantau South Country Park
Shek O Country park essential travel guide to hong kong
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Hong Kong's how to yum cha like a cantonese
Best Dim Sum
The baskets of delicate dumplings were a foil for the fragrant drink and considered snacks rather than a full meal. These days, dim sum itself is a main player on the culinary stage. The diversity and sheer number of Hong Kong dim sum restaurants is stunning. Noisy Cantonese joints where people eat with such determination there’s a slight madness in the air; gilded, hushed dining rooms where waiters anticipate your every move; tranquil oases hidden on a mountaintop ... it’s all available in Hong Kong. We’ve picked our favorite Hong Kong dim sum restaurants to make it easy for the food-in-steam-basket fanatics.
BEST VALUE
Tim Ho Wan
WHERE TO FIND IT? 9-11 Fuk Wing Street, Hong Kong
BEST AFTER-HOUR
San Hing This is the place to go for a dim sum fix at dawn. The tables are shared by a mix of elderly folk, celebrities and drinkers on a last stop before home. Located in Kennedy Town, San Hing technically opens at 3 a.m., though customers arrive earlier to secure seats. In the small hours the shop is a madhouse, especially on weekends. Staff frantically churn out a wide selection of dim sum, stacked into giant bamboo towers. Customers perpetually hover around the food arrival counter, while an unending stream of new customers mill about looking to snatch seats. Photographs on the wall show Canto-pop star Eason Chan giving props to San Hing’s lau sa bao -- signature yellow custard “quicksand buns.” Other v specialties include quail’s egg siu mai, deep-fried milk and various seasonal dishes often not listed on the menu, such as osmanthus jelly during the summer. The prices are a bargain, with dim sum dishes ranging from HK$12 to $17 ($1.5-2). 18
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The secret didn’t last long. When former Lung King Heen chef Mak Kwai-pui (affectionately known as Pui Gor, or “Brother Pui”) opened a hole-in-the-wall in Mong Kok, crowds flocked here for top-quality Hong Kong dim sum at rock-bottom prices. Then came a Michelin star. And the masses descended. A two-hour wait became a daily phenomenon. And that’s considered short. For purists looking for the original experience, Tim Ho Wan’s shoebox-sized Mong Kok store has unfortunately closed down. The good news is Mak’s opened six larger locations around Hong Kong -- and many more franchises overseas. Despite changes, Tim Ho Wan is still worth it, wait and all. Saying the quality is high and ingredients are fresh is an understatement. Simply, this is what dim sum is meant to taste like. The beef balls are firm but tender, with plenty of coriander. The pig liver cheung fun is earthy. The siu mai is packed with fat shrimp and succulent mushrooms. The radish cake actually tastes like the white radish it’s made from. And of course there are the char siu (barbecued pork) baked buns, now widely imitated but never matched. The Sham Shui Po branch, the second Tim Ho Wan after the Mong Kok store, is still said to house the best chefs.
WHERE TO FIND IT? 10 Hau Wo St., Kennedy Town, Hong Kong
BEST ATMOSPHERE
Lin Heung Kui
WHERE TO FIND IT? 2-3/F, No.46-50 Des Voeux Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
BEST VEGAN OPTION
Pure Veggie House
Exported from Guangzhou in the early 20th century, Lin Heung Teahouse in Central has retained a lot of its retro flavor. But its newer sister store Lin Heung Kui has been gaining momentum among locals since opening in 2009. Inheriting Lin Heung Teahouse's style and decades-old recipes, Lin Heung Kui produces traditional Cantonese flavors. Dim sum typical of Lin Heung are siu mai topped with a slab of liver and Chinese sausage rolls — old-fashioned dishes hard to find anywhere else. The atmosphere is classic Cantonese. Harried women push traditional dim sum carts through the dining hall. Diners rush up to the carts to fight over the bamboo baskets of dim sum that can't seem to come out of the kitchen fast enough. Service is just slightly more neighborly and less sour than Lin Heung Teahouse. However, we find the attitude easy to ignore as we become engulfed in the irrepressibly jovial "hot and noisy" atmosphere (yeet lau) favored by Chinese diners.
Proving that great vegetarian dim sum isn't an oxymoron, you won't even notice the lack of meat when eating at Pure Veggie House. Unlike most vegetarian Chinese restaurants, Pure Veggie House doesn't offer imitation meat made with bean curd and mushrooms. Pure Veggie House prides itself on its lack of artificial coloring and MSG. The addictive, bitesized siu mai is our favorite -- it consists of sticky rice and spinach. Mushroom dumplings are pocketed with fragrant truffles. You can also opt for brown rice instead of the usual white variety to make it extra healthy. The ownership group also manages an ecofarm, which supplies some of the restaurant's vegetables. WHERE TO FIND IT? 3/F, Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road, Mid-Levels, Hong Kong
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BEST FOR DIM SUM VIRGINS
Yan Toh Heen
WHERE TO FIND IT? No.18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
BEST CINEMATIC BACKDROP
Luk Yu Tea House Central's Luk Yu Teahouse offers old Hong Kong glamor with art deco styling, a retro menu and a rich history. It's no wonder it regularly appears in movies and literature. Opened in 1933, Luk Yu Teahouse relocated to its current location in 1976. The building's colonial facade opens into a threefloor restaurant dripping with nostalgia. Eating at Luk Yu is like falling through a time warp. A dim sum meal easily averages more than HK$100 per person per meal. Some customers are paying for the teahouse's history and ambiance. Others are long-term patrons who stay all day. Hard-to-find items harkening back four or five decades make up the menu, such as excellent liver siu mai and deep-fried dumplings in soup. Service is notoriously bad and wait staff can be intimidating to non-regulars. So much so that customer neglect has become a signature of the restaurant. WHERE TO FIND IT? No.24-26 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong
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If you're looking for a first and only dim sum experience, there aren't a lot of places that can rival Yan Toh Heen. It was recently upped from one Michelin star to two. But local dim sum fans have been worshiping it since the 1980s, before the InterContinental hotel took over the space from The Regent in 2001. Yan Toh Heen Superior Dumplings is the most popular combo -- it includes a dumpling with steamed scallop, black truffles and vegetables, a steamed lobster and bird's nest dumpling and a steamed dumpling with king crab leg and vegetables. The crispy shrimp with avocado dumplings and mango mayonnaise is fresh and crunchy. The crispy fried taro net topped with an abalone may be the best deep-fried taro mash in town. The restaurant also offers a 270-degree Victoria Harbour view. Food is eaten with exquisite jade tableware.
BEST DIMSUM IN STYLE
Mott 32
The dark and spacious loft-style space underneath a bank building in Hong Kong is nothing like a proper dim sum restaurant — even the service is kind and attentive. But we're sold once the barbecued pork arrives. Mott 32's char siu uses Iberico pork and is glazed with Yellow Mountain honey. It's perfectly barbecued to give it a mildly charred surface and juicy insides. The siu mai is made of Kurobuta pork wrapped around a soft-boiled quail's egg. Sliced garoupa and black truffle are paired in slippery rice rolls. The xiaolongbao and shrimp dumplings, however, are bland in comparison. WHERE TO FIND IT? No.4-4A Des Voeux Road, Central, Hong Kong
BEST RURAL EXPERIENCE
Choi Lung
Choi Lung Restaurant is a three-story family-run teahouse partway up Hong Kong's highest peak, Tai Mo Shan. It's a great place to stop during a hike. Diners have to prepare their own tea and rest on simple plastic stools. Despite the humble setup, Choi Lung has been running for more than 40 years, thanks to a group of dedicated fans. "People would drive all the way here from Sai Wan for a bowl of black bean ribs with rice," waitress Shek Wai Ling told us a few years ago when we first wrote about the place. We recommend the bean curd sheet wraps filled with chicken, taro and fish maw. The taro is cooked lightly with a crunchy outer layer, the chicken is tender and the fish maw is juicy. A vegetable stall outside Choi Lung's front door is well known for selling locally grown produce. In November, the restaurant serves fresh watercress purchased directly from the farms nearby, which Shek said are "very sweet and rarely found." It's best to visit Choi Lung on the weekend as some dim sum are not served on weekdays, such as the black sesame rolls.
WHERE TO FIND IT? 2 Chuen Lung Estate, Route Twisk, Tsuen Wan, Hong Kong To get there, take a taxi from Tsuen Wan station for around HK$60 or take minibus 80 at Chuen Lung Street near Tsuen Wan wet market.
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BEST POWER LUNCH
Lung King Heen
WHERE TO FIND IT? 8 Finance Street, Four Seasons Hotel, Hong Kong
As one of Hong Kong's few Michelin threestarred restaurants and a Four Seasons Hotel signature, Lung King Heen enjoys an elevated status. It's the perfect setting for special occasions: harbor views, central location, crease-free white tablecloths. This is dim sum as fine dining. The menu is full of classics that have been given novel twists. Lobster and scallop in a thin wrapper resemble decadent siu mai. Cheung fun is filled with garoupa. Dumplings are stuffed with duck liver. The hotel atmosphere can't be dismissed. The service is a little mechanical and halfway through the meal we start craving the controlled chaos of a typical Cantonese restaurant. But Lung King Heen isn't a typical Cantonese restaurant. Book ahead.
BEST VIP TREATMENT
Fook Lam Moon
The first thing we encountered at Fook Lam Moon was a Rolls-Royce Phantom pulling up at the main entrance, dropping off a weary looking man and his two hungry offspring, who bounced noisily to the door of the Hong Kong dim sum restaurant as though they were visiting grandma's house. It isn't called the "canteen of the wealthy" for nothing. Even though the place is frequented by the rich and famous, anyone can rock up to Fook Lam Moon and feel like a billionaire. The service is six-star-hotel-perfect without feeling robotic. They don't over-service because, you know, celebrities just want to be left alone. But staff have real charm that they turn on for every customer that walks through the doors -not just wealthy regulars. Each dim sum gave our taste buds an education. Har gau (shrimp dumplings) are succulent and juicy, almost to the point of being soupy. The skins are perfectly translucent. A signature shrimp cheung fun (rice rolls) has a layer of crisp bean curd sheet to add another dimension of texture to an old standby.
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The lau sa bao surpassed our favorites at San Hing. The bread casing is barely a centimeter thick and the custard filling spills out in an appropriate visual expression of its "quicksand bun" name.
WHERE TO FIND IT? 35-45 Johnston Road, Hong Kong
BEST WAY TO GET FAT
Tai Wing Wah
Sure, we live in a world obsessed with staying slim. But in Yuen Long, Tai Wing Wah is making a killing from hearty “walled village cuisine” made with lard. Punti and Hakka villages, settled in Hong Kong during the Ming and Qing dynasties, were protected by high village walls. The food originating from these walled villages is the focus of Tai Wing Wah’s menu. Hugo “To To” Leung is the culinary brains behind the restaurant and he’s adamant about maintaining authenticity. That means, apart from Hong Kong dim sum classics, such as excellent har gau, or a bright yellow and delicious Malay sponge cake, Tai Wing Wah also serves a rustic white rice mixed with lard and soy sauce that’ll leave you wanting more. If you get a table and order before 11 a.m., most of the dim sum costs HK$12.
WHERE TO FIND IT? 2/F Koon Wong Mansion, 2-6 On Ning Road, Yuen Long, Hong Kong
BEST UNPRETENTIOUSLY POSH
Lei Garden
WHERE TO FIND IT? 121 Sai Yee St., Mong Kok, Hong Kong
It's Michelin-starred and a haunt for celebrity families, but the atmosphere at this Hong Kong dim sum restaurant is relaxed and unpretentious. Offering superbly executed Cantonese dishes and extremely popular for its dim sum, Lei Garden also stands out for warm service. It's rumored the wait staff are trained more vigorously and compensated more handsomely than at any other Cantonese restaurant chain in town. The plain cheung fun are al dente at first bite and perfectly tender inside; the siu mei is moist and meaty, with a nice crisp snap to the skin of the siu yuk and roasted duck. Lei Garden's har gau are stuffed with fat shrimp and expertly wrapped. Essentially, it's a procession of Hong Kong dim sum hits, with only a few slight misses, like the underwhelming xiaolongbao. hong kong’s best dim sum
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First-time dim sum sessions can be intimidating, servers don't necessarily speak English and it's often loud and chaotic. Here are some tips and useful hand signals you can use to yum cha like a pro.
BE SQUEAKY CLEAN The beginning of every dim sum session is when you embrace your inner clean freak. Once diners are seated, they roll up their sleeves and start rinsing utensils at the table. First, pour some hot tea (it's the best grease remover) into the big bowl provided, dip your cup into it sideways and spin it. Then, scoop some tea with your washed cup and pour it over the chopsticks. Empty all the tea into the larger collecting bowl.
HOW TO ORDER There are three main types of dim sum restaurants. At the traditional ones, dim sum is rolled around on carts. Diners just
In most high-end teahouses, waiters
have to watch for the right cart and
will refill your teacup with hot tea
grab their desired dim sum. However,
before it’s empty.
nowadays most teahouses provide dim sum ordering sheets. Check off the types of dim sum and write in the number of baskets you want. Circle your orders to make sure they don't get lost in the long list of choices.
MASTER YOUR CHOPSTICK SKILLS What should you do when there are just three pieces of lau sa bao (egg
TAP TWO FINGERS FOR “THANK YOU”
Then hoist it in the air to show you're ready. In more upscale restau-
In other situations, the youngest person at the table is often entrusted with the task. You don’t lift a hot teapot without pouring tea for others as well -- and always pour for others first. When being served, you just have to tap your index finger and your middle finger in front of your cup to show gratitude.
rants, waiters take orders off regular menus.
custard bun) between the six of you? Apart from ordering another bas-
“MAAI DAAN!”
ket of dim sum, a Cantonese person will tell you sharing is the right way to go -- it allows you to save stomach space to sample more dishes.
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To get the bill, raise your hand with
EMPTY POT?
Tear a bun with your fingers --
By lifting the lid of a teapot and
forget about the cleanliness we just
hanging it on the handle, or simply
mentioned. You can split smaller dim
on the table, you send a signal that
sum by crossing your chopsticks.
you need a hot water refill.
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your index finger pointing downward, then twirl it like you’re drawing a circle in the air. Or simply shout “maai daan” (in Cantonese it literally means “closing the bill”).
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may 2018
issue no.2
M A G A Z I N E
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INDIA EAT-UP GUIDE 26
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