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MESSAGE FROM THE MINISTER OF TOURISM (Polly & the People
Welcome to Western Australia and the 30th edition of Menu Magazine.
FOR more than 15 years Menu Magazine has continued to provide an excellent insight into some of Western Australia’s best restaurants, cafes and culinary experiences, highlighting the latest trends in the State’s food and beverage scene.
In this milestone edition, Menu shines a light on local distilleries, and explores the hybrid drinks and dessert beer trends. It includes a feature on Australia’s native superfood, the Kakadu plum found in the Pilbara and Kimberley regions and travel stories highlighting some of our local staycation hotspots, as well as the regular columns on design, wine, product, education and events.
Australia’s largest State is home to countless holiday experiences and culinary adventures, including some found nowhere else in the world. There’s never been a better time for locals to wander out yonder and explore what Western Australia has to offer.
Over the past year our own vibrant capital city has continued to welcome the opening of new tours, accommodation offerings and attractions. Among them are the spectacular new WA Museum Boola Bardip; the Matagarup Bridge Climb; Optus Stadium’s new rooftop tour experience HALO; waterbiking on the Swan River; the DoubleTree by Hilton Perth Waterfront, (which includes the new 18 Knots Rooftop Bar offering stunning views over the city skyline and Swan River); and the $45 million transformation of the Perth Parmelia Hilton. Now is the ideal time to enjoy a staycation in Perth and discover a part of the city you haven’t experienced before. In exciting news for gourmet travellers, one of the State’s premium food and wine festivals, the Western Australia Gourmet Escape, will return in 2021 with signature events taking place from 17-21 November across Perth, the Swan Valley and Margaret River regions. This year will also see Perth’s island playground, Rottnest, added to the program.
I hope you enjoy this edition of Menu Magazine and that it inspires you to discover more of WA’s exceptional food and beverages.
HON DAVID TEMPLEMAN MLA MINISTER FOR TOURISM
profile A holiday at home
ON the afternoon I visited Seven Sins Perth Hills I meandered along the roads of Roleystone past fruit orchards, and felt like I was on holiday, away from my bustling life.
“I grew up here, so I love it,” owner and head chef Seb Sindermann tells me as we sit and chat. At once I understood why I felt at home spending the entire afternoon there.
Country hospitality and the warmth of German heritage has created this special nook in the hills of Perth. Seb, his family and their team nurture this relaxed family atmosphere, providing a special experience, whether for locals or visitors from the city.
It is his family heritage that influences Seb’s cooking: “a lot of the food I had at home was German-inspired, and … the flavours were much more intense than you get in most places.” He tells me his mother is a phenomenal cook who has deep ties to the industry and, while no longer working in the kitchen, she is very much a guiding force in this family-run restaurant.
The restaurant’s name Seven Sins comes directly from Seb’s connection to family. “I’ve got four kids, my wife Chrissy, myself and my mum, and our surname is Sindermann.”
Whether you are a small party of two or a larger group, you will enjoy this venue. Elegant wood finishing and exposed beams create a welcoming space, and you can sit and stare at views across Roleystone either inside or outside beneath the eucalyptus trees. There is also a community table designed for larger gatherings. The international menu allows Seb to share his passion for all styles of cuisine, and there is even a kid’s menu.
Our first meal was the Pan Seared Scallops served in a mild yellow coconut curry sauce, with an avocado salsa and spiced sour cream. The thick, creamy curry sauce was sweet and comforting, and be sure to soak up the excess with a bowl of rice. The locally farmed scallops were tender and sweet, while the avocado brought an earthy balance to the dish. Overall it was a lovely combination, and the dish was well paired with the Woody Nook Velvet Rose with its luscious berry flavours.
The second dish we enjoyed – Crispy Pork Bao with slaw, onion jam, chili aioli and spring onion – was fun and colourful. The buns were sweet and fluffy, with a lovely sweet and savoury mix filling, crispy pork and juicy slaw. We matched this dish with the German Weihenstephan Pilsner which, with its smooth and grassy taste, and crisp finish, was a refreshing drink.
Next came the Fried Tandoori Popcorn Chicken with stir fried rice, cranberries, dill, chickpeas and raita. The cranberries in the rice provided a sweetness to balance the tasty chicken, while the roast cauliflower was delicate, and let the other flavours develop on your palate, and the turmeric brought an earthiness to the dish. We paired this dish with the crisply finished Alkoomi, Franklin River 2019 Riesling.
The dish of the day was stunning, and exemplifies German cuisine for me – heartfelt, rich and comforting. Beef Fillet Medallions were served on Seb’s cold potato salad with basil pesto and onion jam. The perfectly cooked beef, tanginess of the potato salad dressing, sweet fruitiness of the onion jam and basil pesto all came together to create this delicious dish. We enjoyed a glass of the
Myatts 2018 Field Shiraz Mourvedre Viognier which is a medium-bodied wine, with complex layers without being overbearing.
The last dish we tried was Tempura Shark Bay Whiting with crunchy vegetables, baby potatoes, jalapeno hollandaise and spring onion salsa. This is a lighter dish, while still being satisfying. The hollandaise was creamy with just a hint of jalapeno heat. The fish had an even coating of batter, and sits atop the other ingredients, allowing that nice little crunch we all love in tempura. We paired this dish with a local brew, the Roleystone Gold ‘n Pear Brewery Co’s Apple and Pear cider, which is a semi-sweet cider, and an easy accompaniment. Eventually we made it to desert, beginning with the Lime Panna Cotta with fresh honeycomb, pistachio crumble and green apple sorbet. This is the desert to select when you are full from your main course but still want that end of the meal pick-me-up. The fresh flavours of the lime and the crisp sorbet were delicious. The honeycomb was rich and deep, and the pistachio crumble gave that much needed crunch. Altogether this was a well-balanced and refreshing desert.
The Myattsfield Mistelle wine is a lovely fortified wine to finish your evening on. It has a delicate sweetness without being overpowering, so it’s a great match with the tart flavours of the panna cotta.
Finally we tried Seb’s Bavarian Apple Donuts, dusted in cinnamon sugar and served with butterscotch sauce and vanilla icecream. Seb discovered these in Munich and insisted the chef teach him how to make them. I am so glad he did, and I really recommend you give them a try. The donuts are rich but the apple is refreshing, and these are best enjoyed with coffee.
The genuine warmth and hospitality you experience at Seven Sins is what will make you want to come back again and, of course, the food plays a huge part in that as well. This is a place of community, of comfort and nourishment, and when you are sitting at a table, you feel like you are home amongst friends.
By Sarah Schmitt
Seven Sins Perth Hills 3/1 Soldiers Road, Roleystone Ph: (08) 6290 5162 www.sevensinsperthhills.com.au
Not to be Underestimated
WHEN I first visited Samudera earlier in the year I thought it was just a little coffee shop that made a bit of bread. I entered via the main street to a tiny rustic coffee shop but it turns out that Samudera is much more than just that. I am not local to Mandurah so I didn’t know how extensive and popular this spot was. I guess I had my blinkers on.
Luckily I bumped into owner, head baker and executive chef Nat Loaring at one of the many Perth cafes Samudera supplies handmade artisan bread to. He invited me back for lunch the following week and I am so very glad he did. My navigator took me to a secluded back entry that had a rustic setting of wood and tin. I didn’t even know it was there. It was really busy so I sat down outside the open Bakery and ordered some food.
Before the food came out Nat took me through his bakery which is a good size and capable of supplying fresh bread to half the population of Mandurah. He says it’s his bread that made Samudera famous, and sourdough is their specialty, and I must say – it is excellent. I took home some fresh sourdough crumpets, a sourdough loaf and some seeded bread. I think it was the first time in my life I had gone home and just had bread for dinner. I couldn’t believe it when my wife and very fussy kids joined me and ate until they couldn’t eat any more.
Nat took me through the kitchen and into the shopfront before I realised where I was. The same tiny rustic coffee shop I had once visited and clearly underestimated. This deceptive little place had me wondering what else had I missed?
First up from the breakfast menu, we tried the Samudera Souffle Cakes – what I would best describe as one of the more extravagant pancakes I have had. With meringue on top, a selection of seasonal fruits, nuts, seeds and mascarpone, it was a combination you don’t often see. Both kids and adults will love them. Next up was the Buttermilk Chicken & Sourdough Waffles which was a good-sized portion, and I am starting to see they love to use nuts and seeds in most dishes. The bacon was my favourite part of the dish because it had a lovely smoked flavour to it.
From the lunch and dinner menu, the Seared WA Scallops was an interesting twist of flavours. I particularly liked the citrus with it. Nat told me they torch it gently to highlite the natural sweetness. The sourdough crumbed fried balls filled with La Delizia Latticini’s hand crafted stracciatella cheese was great mixed with the rest of the dish so make sure you give that a try when you order.
The Samudera Artisan Sourdough with beetroot hummus, olive oil, balsamic, whipped herb ricotta salata, dukkah and citrus oil will satisfy the health conscious too, so there is something for everyone at Samudera.
Onto the dinner menu and the WA Fish Fillet came with a big Exmouth tiger prawn, a couple of WA scallops, Mandurah crab risotto, guanciale wrapped asparagus, and house kaffir lime aioli. There is nothing better than fresh seafood and it was exactly that (a true reflection of the name Samudera – which translates in English to “of the sea”). All of the seafood was cooked perfectly, but the fish really stood out – silky and flaky, it was just the way it should be.
Don’t forget this is a first-class bakery so make sure you have some olive oil and balsamic vinegar on hand to dip any leftover bread as it doesn’t get any fresher than this. The Samudera bakers work 24 hrs around the clock and fresh sourdough loaves come out of the oven every 45 minutes. The WA Prawn Linguini was another huge dish packed full of flavour. I really loved the combination of the creamy sauce with the house made crayfish oil. Next time I will try the Crab Linguini as we are, after all, in Mandurah and this is what Mandurah and Samudera are famous for.
The final dish we tasted was the Samudera Chicken Parmigiana. I could not believe the size of it and was somewhat relieved to hear it’s designed to be a share plate. Complete with a side pasta, salad and chips, this is half a free-range boneless chicken crumbed in Samudera’s own sourdough breadcrumbs with La Delizia Latticini’s hand crafted mozzarella and a very fresh house made passata.
The other share dish that was recommended to us was the 54 Degree Black Angus Scotch Fillet Reef & Beef, but I was too full on the day to do it justice. It is slow cooked then reverse seared on a woodfire using local timbers including salt encrusted peppermint collected from the banks of the Peel Estuary.
The food at Samudera is full of intensity and integrity. Nat’s philosophy is simple – it’s all about real food. He says: “You can really see and taste the quality of not only the produce and ingredients but also the love and passion of making everything here in house – it’s food you want to eat”. And he is right about that. Where possible everything is made in house, and only chefs who are passionate about the food they make are working here. For Nat, his experience growing up in Mandurah, catching, growing and cooking fresh food has influenced what you find on the menu.
There are lots of interesting things to come back for at Samudera and the next time I walk into a little shop I won’t be underestimating what else is there.
By Scott Arnold-Eyers
Samudera Artisan Food & Bakehouse 29 Mandurah Terrace, Mandurah Ph: (08) 9535 2601 www.samudera.com.au
