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CERVANTES: MORE THAN THE PINNACLES (Travel SURFING THE GLOBE (Celebrity Chef) 52/53
Cervantes:
More than the Pinnacles
The tiny seaside town of Cervantes is the epitome of everything that is great about Western Australia. Located on the aptly named Turquoise Coast and hugging the Jurien Bay Marine Park, azure sea laps against sand almost too white to be believed.
Situated within the Shire of Dandaragan and two hours north of Perth, the coastal town of Cervantes is easily reached as a day trip along the Indian Ocean Drive. However, rushing this part of the world would be a travesty because you would miss witnessing one of our State’s most phenomenal experiences. Visiting the Pinnacles at either dusk, dawn or full moon is a must, otherwise, you might risk thinking it’s just a bunch of ant mounds under the blazing sun; plus, you will avoid the crowds. As the sun and moon synchronise their grand exit and entrance, mysterious shadowy peaks and valleys form, while kangaroos, emus, lizards and influencers bask in the afterglow. So renowned, the Pinnacles has been listed in Lonely Planet’s Ultimate Travel List Australia book released in May 2022. This extraordinary landscape emerging from the desert floor has been the makings of many a legend, but a trip to the architecturally designed Pinnacles Desert Discovery Centre sheds some light. A four-kilometre drive trail weaves through the Pinnacles Desert, spanning 20,000 hectares in the Nambung National Park and many pick a spot to roam on foot. You could spend hours meandering among the thousands of limestone mounds in varying heights, shapes and widths, especially at sunset when the sand shifts to reveal eerie images such as pillars, mushrooms and tombstones in stark contrast to the luminous sky.
As you can see by now, an overnight stay in Cervantes is essential to avoid a lengthy and precarious drive at dusk or dawn, and there are several options catering to all budgets. Starting at the more luxurious end, the Pinnacles Edge Resort caters to families, groups and couples on short or long-term getaways with various self-contained spa suites, two-bedroom apartments and studio hotel rooms. Located in the heart of town, the complex also houses the Cervantes Pinnacles Motel (undergoing an upgrade at the time of print), an onsite restaurant and a swimming pool beckoning guests to linger beneath the shade sails.
The resort is within walking distance to many of the town’s attractions, and manager Tony Monk recommends, “Cervantes is a great place to get away and relax. Or get your thrills with sandboarding, skydiving or snorkelling.”
Alternatively, the Lobster Lodge offers backpacker dorm rooms, family rooms and deluxe ensuite rooms with ocean views. Oozing chic coastal vibes, all guests have access to a shared kitchen and lounge area, ideal if you’re on a budget or lengthy trip. After all, you might get lucky on a fishing charter from nearby Jurien Bay. Or if you’ve caught tailor, whiting, mulloway, herring, shark or crabs at any of the local fishing haunts at Hangover Bay, Cervantes Jetty, Lead Lights, Cervantes Beach Black Peak, Hansen Bay, Cervantes Back Beach or Thirsty Point. If the fishing gods weren’t on your side, then pay
Most days of the week, the family and pet-friendly Cervantes Bar and Bistro is abuzz thanks to its restaurant, sports bar, beer garden and tap beers. Seating over 200 guests, the menu impresses with Black Angus beef, Asian influences and fresh seafood platters with locally sourced (subject to the seasons) lobster, prawns, squid, mussels, octopus and fish of the day.
Owner Marks Knowles shares, “Cervantes has a lot more to offer than just the Pinnacles. There are plenty of other attractions, including the stromatolites at Lake Thetis, beaches, sea lion tours, fishing and a relaxing lifestyle.”
One of the first families to discover its charm while in search of the elusive Western Rock Lobster in the 1960s was The Thompson family. A couple of generations later, in 2008 they created a processing facility specifically for the export of live lobsters. Due to popular demand, they added a tourism component called the Lobster Shack for the public to sample this prized delicacy, as well as the accommodation at the Lobster Lodge, and factory tours offering a unique insight into WA’s lobster industry.
The Lobster Shack’s popular sea lion tours run to the outlying Cervantes Islands where you can swim and snorkel with these playful creatures. Nikki Thompson runs the Lobster Shack with husband David and says, “Cervantes is one of those coastal country towns where the pace is slow enough that it’s easy to kick back and return to nature. One of my favourite things is heading to the beach out the back of the Lobster Shack with the kids.”
Seating up to 700 patrons and exuding a sea shanty vibe, anything featuring local lobster from the menu will naturally be outstanding, and you really can’t go past grilled lobster paired with the Lobster Lager. Nikki recommends the Shack Seafood Platter featuring grilled lobster, scallops, oysters, prawns, squid, Spanish mackerel and seafood chowder - you can read our full review in this issue.
This region isn’t named the Turquoise Coast without good reason. If you’re looking for that ultimate Instagram spot, Sandy Cape delivers as its aquamarine waters are sheltered by a small bay perfect for frolicking, snorkelling and fishing. After checking the tides, you can drive directly onto the beach and set yourself up for the day and you’ll likely have it mostly to yourself for endless #nofilter posing. Campsites are available and if you feel the need for speed, why not sandboard down the dunes for unabandoned fun. Given you’re on the Indian Ocean, the sunsets are golden from Sandy Cape, but for a different perspective, head to Hansen Bay Lookout or follow the boardwalks from Thirsty Point Lookout.
Just off the Indian Ocean Drive, nearby Green Head hosts one of the country’s top beaches called Dynamite Bay. This circular-shaped beach is sheltered by a rocky peninsula and is a favourite for picnics and snorkelling among the abundant marine life and coral.
Travel LET'S
CERVANTES WA
3.5 Star quality accommodation, value for money, comfort and friendly service.
ACCOMMODATION FUNCTIONS RESTAURANT
Studio and Unit rooms all air-conditioned Fridge & kitchenette Private bathroom Pool & garden views 2x Outdoor entertaining areas with BBQ's Weddings Conferences Seasonal Celebrations Birthdays Work Functions We can cater to your crowd Dine in our vibrant "Ploughmans On Aragon" restaurant Offering indoor and outdoor dining Intimate and large settings Locally known for our Woodfired Pizzas
www.cervantespinnaclesmotel.com.au
reservations.pinnacles @ bigpond.com
PH: 08 9652 7145
FRESH ITALIAN HANDCRAFTED CHEESE
MADE FROM 100% LOCAL INGREDIENTS
MOZZARELLA - BURRATA STRACCIATELLA - RICOTTA
Travel LET'S
For spectacular views of South Bay, Dynamite Bay and Anchorage Bay, head up to Three Bays Walkway and stroll among the blooming flora while spotting eagles, ospreys, sea lions and dolphins. While in Green Head, it’s just a short stroll to Green Head Gallery for a coffee and to purchase a depiction of this coastal treasure painted by local artist Deborah Crookes.
Another local business is Dandaragan Organic Beef and although you can’t buy direct from the farm, you can order online and buy direct from many outlets in Perth – it’s also worth checking out their website for their beefy recipes. The region’s Mediterranean climate is ideal for growing olives and Dandaragan Estate is one of Australia’s leading producers of olive oil. Free delivery is available when you order online, or you can purchase Dandaragan Estate’s blends from many supermarkets and speciality stores.
If adventure calls, about an hour north, the lush Stockyard Gully National Park is home to a cave system leading to an underwater river. You’ll need a four-wheel-drive to access the park, and remembering the journey is part of the adventure, you’ll be royally rewarded with an impressive cave stretching over 400 metres. Cushioned with soft, cool sand underfoot, this picturesque cave provides some muchneeded relief when visiting during the warmer months. Don’t forget to bring plenty of water and your torch as it’s pitch black inside the cave, which is home to colonies of kangaroos, birdlife, bats and bees - watch out for the hives at the entrance.
The lycra-clad will find the views hard to resist from the sealed Turquoise Way Trail, perfect for walking and cycling, spanning 14.2km along the coast from the Jurien Bay Marina to the Hill River Mouth. Or take the scenic 18.5km drive through Lesueur National Park or choose from one of the walking trails for a spectacular display of wildflowers between August and November. Another scenic drive is the Dandaragan Way through the Badgingarra National Park, passing by enormous wind turbines and picturesque scenery including marri trees, wildflowers and cockatoos. Some consider Cervantes primarily as the gateway to the Pinnacles, but then you’d be missing the point. Its charm lies in its simplicity. Like takeaway fish and chips at sunset on the foreshore or coffee and a toastie from the pop-up Bettyvan. So much more than just a coffee van, it exudes a sense of community for the locals to catch up with their dogs or fishermen to swing by once they’re done pulling pots. Conveniently located at the turn-off into Cervantes from the Indian Ocean Drive just outside the township, the van runs from Thursday to Monday mornings. Check for updates on the opening times on the Bettyvan Facebook page.
If you’re lucky enough to have time on your hands, lingering along Western Australia’s Coral Coast for a seaside holiday will undoubtedly be the makings of cherished memories, especially if you can extend the journey north to Kalbarri, Exmouth and Broome. If returning to Perth, delay your return to reality by pausing 24 kilometres south of Cervantes at the Wanagarren Nature Reserve for a forest of grass trees, officially named Xanthorrhoea, formerly called ‘blackboys,’ back when life was infinitely less complicated and culturally aware.
As the sun sets on your journey, don’t forget to look up at the vast sky as darkness transcends the galaxy into a star-studded performance.
For more information, go to www.visitturquoisecoast.com.au and visit the Cervantes Visitor Centre while in town.
CERVANTES WA
Explore Cervantes from Luxury 4.5 Star apartment accommodation.
APARTMENT
Air-conditioned Private balcony Fully equipped kitchen 2 bathrooms, including one with a spa bath.
STUDIO
Air-conditioned Kitchenette with a microwave and refrigerator Flat-screen TV with DVD player En suite bathroom
SPA SUITE
Air-conditioned Private balcony with outdoor furniture Pool or sea views Spa bath Fully equipped kitchen and 6 person dining setting.
www.pinnaclesedgeresort.com.au
reservations.pinnacles @ bigpond.com
PH: 08 9652 7145
WA’s Best Producers
By Carmen Jenner Support your local food manufacturers. Available at selected local independant food outlets as well as selected Wondering why many of Cervantes’ cafes and restaurants. streets have Spanish names, such as Seville Street, Valencia Road and Iberia Street? The town earned its namesake from a ship wrecked nearby named after Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote.
