Arbiter Elegantiarum by Camille Leroy

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GENDERS

HOW IT IS NOT JUST MEN OR WOMEN

JIL AND RAF, HEDI AND YVES WHY ARE THEY ALL MOVING

FRENCH ISSUE JEAN PAUL GOUDE MARVIN LAVOILLOTTE GABRIELLE STIVAL KIDULT

March 2012, issue 04 £3.50

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Camille Leroy LER10300758 BA(Hons) Fashion Media Part Time First Year

EDITO

For this 4th issue of Arbiter Elegantiarum, we have decided to offer you a taste of France. Not cheese, or wine, but what’s happening on the French cultural scene at the moment. We will have reviews on the latest exhibitions and street artists, exclusive interviews of French stylist and designer. But what you will enjoy the most, and that we had great fun doing, was the special Fashion editorial photoshoot about French stereotypes. Everything is there, the baguette, the Eiffel Tower, and even the frog legs!! And we loved working with the future music revelation as our model, Natalie Findlay. You will also find a special article addressing the concerns of Amnesty International in which with strongly believe, and how people with a different sexuality as the typical male/female scheme .have managed to make it to the top We hope you’ll enjoy this little French treat and we can’t wait to be with you again for the next issue! And as they say overseas A !bientôt Camille Leroy

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CONTENT Edito. Page 03 Jean Paul Goude. A review about the retrospective held at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Pages 6-7 Kidult. The Terrible Child of graffiti against luxury brands. Pages 8-9

Page 6

Projectionists. The new supergroup from Manchester to be watching. Pages 10-15

Gabrielle Stival. An exclusive interview of the talented Idol magazine stylist. Pages 16-17 Souriez vous êtes clichés. A special fashion editorial playing on French stereotypes. Pages 18-33 Wanted. Next season Yves Saint Laurent it-shoes. Page 34 Page 16

Musical Chairs. Raf Simons out of Jil Sander, Hedi Slimaneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s come back. Page 35 Take a Walk on the Wild Side. An article about the difficulties of being sexually different. Pages 36-43 Marvin Lavoillotte. Profile of a new face of London Fashion scene. Page 44-46

Front cover: Natalie findlay wearing a Yves Saint Laurent vintage Blouse, a Zara necklace and a vintage scarf

Back cover: A crude adaptation of a Dior poster advert by Kidult Photo credit: artesoul.tumblr.com

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exhibition

jean paul goude Les Arts Decoratifs presents the first retrospective of one of the most brilliant â&#x20AC;&#x153;image makersâ&#x20AC;? of the last 50 years. Indeed, through photography, drawings, movies, performances, Jean Paul Goude has left his mark in contemporary imagery in .France and all over the world

whole world and image about different cultures. Falling in love with Black,

Asian, White or mixed race women, he celebrated them throughout his

career, impersonating them as strong

and independent, even becoming Grace

.Jones’ Pygmalion

In 1989, for the bicentennial of the

French Revolution, he was in charge of

realising the parade and created a show

.remembered all over the world

In this exhibition, orchestrated by Jean Paul Goude himself, over 400 works

are displayed recalling 40 years of his career. From the mechanic dancers of

the bicentennial parade, to his work with Grace Jones; from the “corrected bodies”

Goude has done some acclaimed

to his advertising works…. everything is

commercials for the fashion industry

there, leaving the spectator fascinated by

working for brands such as Chanel. His

.such passion and beauty

most famous works include in 1984 a

series of advertisings for Kodak which

introduced the “kodakettes” , marking

the minds of a generation of consumers. In 2001, the French department store

“Galeries Lafayettes” started a love story with the enthusiast artist, giving them a strong visual identity and unique photographic style which is easily

recognisable. The collaboration still

remains today, with artists such as Iggy

.Pop modelling for the brand

But Jean Paul Goude has done much more than advertising; he created a

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street art

He is not interested in ugly and nice, nor what’s in and out. Kidult just impose its graffiti reflecting on where and how he could pass his message on the most efficient way possible and artistic process. Kidult seems to bear luxury brands a grudge, esteeming that they’ve been using the graffiti culture to send the wrong message. Indeed, graffiti is a free and impulsive art,

imposing its style wherever and whenever it wants, and Kidult explains that those really expensive and commercial brands are just using it to make more money and they don’t understand and value it

photo credit: allcityblog.com

Kidult is “L’Enfant Terrible” of graffiti. He has been a street artist for 13 years now, expressing his views on society between the walls of Paris and New York. Kidult is well know for his ironic posters of luxury brands placed all over bus stops in Paris. His motto is to express his opinions, as a kid would do, which means really direct, and with no hypocrisy. “Graffiti is not dead” is what he says in the ten minutes video “Illegalize Graffiti” in which he explains his reflective

#french as they should. So he decided to take his revenge against some of the brands that have been using graffiti for the wrong purposes; and with a fire extinguisher he wrote his name on the windows of Agnès B, Jean Charles de Castelbaljac, Yves Saint Laurent and the famous concept store Colette. He said about these actions “I just gave them what they love”. However, not all brands agreed with that thought, and in the video, Colette Rousseaux (the woman behind the eponymous store) admits being a fan of graffiti but not considering Kidult’s gift as such but calls it “sabotage”. Agnès B responded to it with humour, tweeting that she appreciated the graffiti but that she unfortunately had to have it removed and apologising to Kidult

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music

P R O J E C T I O N I S T S In the era of Lady Gaga or Lana del Rey, Projectionists brings some fresh air to the music industry with a sweet and sour !pop, just how we love it Projectionists is Manchester’s

shake. Projectionists is definitely a band

Stephens aka Becki), Liam Frost

comforting than an old fashion catchy pop

latest supergroup, with members from The Pipettes (Rebecca

and The Slowdown Family (Peter Marshall), The Earlies (Christian Madden), Alfie (Samuel Morris)

to watch, we can assure you that’s they’ll

grow fast… After all, is there anything more ?song

and Star-Crossed Lovers (Paul

Mortlock). Their first EP signed on the French/Mancunian label Joyeux Anniversaire Records

came out on January 18th on

the occasion of a special gig in a

charming pub in Manchester. The public couldn’t resist to dance to the catchy pop songs, especially

“I never wanted anything” which made the walls of the old pub

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INTERVIEW

GABRIELLE STIVAL Gabrielle Stival is a Junior Fashion Editor of new magzine IDOL, she talks to us about how she enjoys doing what she does, and how she got there. !Keep an eye on her work

When and how did you realise you wanted to work in Fashion? I think I’ve always secretly wanted to study fashion but never had the guts to admit it and thought something more conventional would be Where are you from? I was born in Canada, spent fine. But at some point, after 12 years of my life in France a year in London and after realising I was independent !and then came to London and could actually give it a go I just decided to try What is your something new and I ended background? (Studies…) I started off studying a Law ! up doing what I wanted degree which brought me Did you have a hard here actually as I was an time looking for Erasmus student for my last year, but I then decided internships or jobs? to follow the creative route I started assisting a stylist Where do you work at the moment? At the moment I am Junior Fashion Editor for IDOL Magazine and also .freelancing as a stylist

and took a Fashion Styling summer class in Central .Saint Martins

straight after my summer class and just kept on applying for internships at

the same time, Internships weren’t extremely complicated to find, you just need to keep your eyes open for opportunities and apply as much as possible. However paid jobs for stylists aren’t that easy to get, the Fashion industry doesn’t have much money to give and sadly creativity doesn’t always guarantee a living. But I guess the more experience you gain through internships and placements, and the more determined you are the more chances you have to get a great position. Just need to keep on looking, all the time ! And NETWORK, ! get yourself out there

Why London? Why London... To be completely honest I came here with my boyfriend to finish my degree. I knew people were a lot more creative here though but I wasn’t thinking about starting a stylist career at first. Then I just realised how much opportunities there were, how open minded people are regarding fashion and style, how exciting things can be right around the corner, then things just came naturally and 3 years later ! I’m still here and happy

What has been your most exciting and rewarding experience so far? I’d have to say the most exciting thing that happened to me was when my colleagues told me they’d like me to be their Junior Fashion Editor. Not that my life was boring before but this just changed my perspectives completely and I started seeing a lot more and doing a lot more. I jumped straight into the heart of the fashion world and since then I can say every day is a new adventure ! But I am a happy girl, I love what I do and every time I style something or create a moodboard it’s like a little ! party inside And the one you regret the most? So far I haven’t really had bad

experiences, you learn from every experience, some jobs are a bit annoying and exhausting at times but the final result always makes me forget about that. I’d say the worst thing is not being paid on time when you are a freelancer, very frustrating but sadly very ...common

GET YOURSELF OUT THERE What are you plans for the future?

I don’t really have plans on the long run, I prefer taking things as they come and see where it brings me. However I am working hard on my portfolio at the moment as I would like to find an agency soon. I obviously want to keep on styling, but then time will tell which direction i’ll be taking ! In London or elsewhere I really don’t know, I just want to keep on doing ): what I love and make a living

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FASHION

souriez vous etes cliches Model: Natalie Findlay Photos: Camille Leroy Styling: Camille Leroy Make-up: Camille Leroy/ Natalie Findlay

Top: Vintage cardigan, Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche vintage Blouse Skirt: Vintage Trousers: Topshop Snake imitation boots: Zara

Top: Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche vintage blouse, Topshop skirt worn as a cape Trousers: Topshop Boots: Zara Coat: Chanel Necklace: Zara

Top: Petit Bateau mariniĂ¨re, Primark Shirt Skirt: Primark Shoes: Office Necklace: Chanel BĂŠret and veil vintage

Dress: New Look Skirt worn as a cape: Handmade Shiny dress: Topshop Shoes: Jeffrey Campbell Necklace: Mor

Dress: Lanvin vintage Jacket: Primark Tights: Primark Shoes: Doc Martens Gloves: Vintage Headband: Asos Jewellery: Vintage

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OBJECT OF DESIRE

WANTED

photo credit: Bented.com

Photo credit: beadlaceandshoes.onsugar.com

For his Spring 2012 collection, designer Stefano Pilati respected the typical code of the YSL house. He was inspired by the “Belle de Jour” look (Luis Bunuel,

1967), designed by Yves Saint Laurent himself. The look is mostly influenced by

a bourgeois lifestyle, respecting a code of colours and cuts quite classical, even austere such as black, burgundy or pale pastel colours. However, it wouldn’t be

YSL if there weren’t more to it… As Catherine Deneuve in the movie, the spring 2012 YSL woman is more than just a bored and wealthy woman from the chic neighbourhood of Paris. She is a bit of a fetishist, she likes to takes risks, to put on a

black leather trench coat and go out at night. This wonderful pair of shoes manages

to sum up the all lifestyle of that woman. The simple and strict form, moccasin style well known to the fashion house is made more provocative with a golden

steel plaque fixed on top of it. During the Paris show last September, the front row couldn’t take their eyes off them, and now, we can’t keep our minds off them

Hedi Slimane is back! After leaving the menswear at Dior in 2007, Slimane disappeared from the fashion scene to devote its talent to photography. It’s been five years and everyone who remembers the man who set the androgynous/rock look

for men has been secretly expecting his return. Slimane decided to move away from fashion after Dior refused to let him in charge of womenswear. But today, after taking his first fashion steps in 1996 there, Yves Saint Laurent has named him Creative Director making him in charge of women and menswear as

well as accessories. He is replacing italian designer Stefano Pilati who has been the creative director of the house for seven year, always ahead of his time but respecting the traditional codes of the house. Pilati has not

announced what are his future plans but he will surely succeed. In the meantime, the entire Fashion world is keeping an eye on Slimane and hope he will surprise it, as he always did

Raf out, Jil in It definitely is a period a big movements in the fashion sphere … Raf Simons, who has been

the creative director of Jil Sander for men and womenswear since 2005, just said his last- very emotional- goodbye to the brand. Indeed, the German designer Jil Sander is coming back to its eponymous brand after quitting in 2004. Simons has always managed to

preserve the identity of the brand, adding more “freedom” to it as he said to Vogue and proved that he masters womenswear. Raf Simons hasn’t declared himself on his next move yet, some rumours are heard that he could be the very expected successor of John Galliano at Dior but nothing has been confirmed. Jil Sander explained that she was excited to come back to her first love, and that her time at Uniqlo taught her a lot about basics garments, which she feels the fashion industry strongly needs

Photo credit: Josefine-mag.fr

Photo credit: paperblog.fr

musical chairs

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Plucked her eyebrows on the way Shaved her leg and then he was a she She says, hey babe, take a walk on the wild side Said, hey honey, take a walk on the wild side Take a Walk on the Wild Side -Lou Reed

Amnesty International UK is fighting for the rights of Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender people (LGBT) all over the world. Indeed, in many countries the LGBT community still suffers injustices going from getting laughed at in the street to being .beat up to death

the fear of people. Countries such as France still have the debate of whether or not the

marriage between same-sex people should be allowed, and with the presidential elections approaching it is an issue that has been .raised by several candidates

It is a community of people that cannot rely on anyone else but themselves. La Roche, the founder of a Brazilian government department defending the rights of

transvestites and transsexuals explained

A few years ago, Fashion made a step

to the Guardian “the first institution that

forward in this fight by introducing

excludes [them] is [their] family” and they

transgender models. The first one to create

.live a life of loneliness

the buzz was Léa T, a Brazilian model

Léa T and several other transgender models

born Leandro, who after an encounter

such as Andrej Pejic, have made it to the

with Ricardo Tisci decided to embrace her

top, became famous, got accepted and even

real personality. A few years later, Tisci

respected in the Fashion industry. Let’s hope

put her in the center of the fashion scene

it will expand to other industries and to life

by offering her to model on the Givenchy

.in general

Fall 2010 campaign. It was already a huge shock for the public, raising the debate

of transvestism and sexual identity. But it

didn’t stop here, Léa T decided to take her

Poto credit: Styleite.com

fame as an opportunity to break the taboos, and she posed for French Vogue naked,

barely hiding her intimate parts. Fashion is about expressing who you are, about

acceptance as well as provoking common

sense; Léa T opened a path for transgender .people and raised their hopes

The LGBT community has suffered and still suffers terrible injustices based on

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NEW FACE

M A R V I N LAVOILLOTTE Marvin Lavoillotte will soon become the new face of the London Fashion scene. This 23 year old French designer has chosen the UK’s capital and its creatively outbursting environment as a workplace and home. After a first succesful Fashion Week in 2011, we can ‘t wait to see the next move of this charming and peculiar young man ! We went to meet him for a .sincere interview about his background, hopes and expectations

Marvin Lavoillotte is a young designer

mannequin with the name ESMOD written

exposed at London Fashion Week. He

both « graphic design and fashion design.

from Lyon, France. He is only 23 years

on it, the school Marvin went to study

old and his works have already been

fashion. He tells us he has a backround in

talked to Arbiter Elegantiarum about

» He started with a BA (Hons) in Graphic

his background, his expectations and his

design at La Martinière, and later oriented

.style

himself towards a Fashion design degree.

We went to see Marvin at his place,

He says of his Graphic design degree that

in Mile End. He invited us inside his

it allowed him to « to understand how to

bedroom, which appears to be the former

construct garments » thus making it easier

living room converted in a room that has

.for him to realise them

faux airs of a loft. The room is all nice and

LONDON IS A VERY CREATIVE AND INSPIRING PLACE

tidy, with every tee shirt pigeonholed by

colour and every book put in alphabetical order. On the shelf, some gadgets are

lightning up the room, and some ironic framed posters are displayed on the

At the question « How and when did you

wall. Near one of the large window is a

know that you wanted to work in the

Fashion industry » he answers that he had

independent, as he was waiting for a good

studying costume history that he knew for

designer hopes for, he got a job for a couture

been attracted to fashion ever since he was

opportunity. And then, in 2010 came that

very young, but it’s only when he started

wonderful opportunity that every starting

sure that fashion was what he wanted to

house : Ziad Ghanem. He started as a fashion

do for a living. Of course, one of the most

assistant, and later became a freelance

common question to ask a French person

designer for the house, which allowed him

working in fashion outside of France is «

to get credit for the tights he designed for

why not Paris ? », and it is quite a legitimate

the autumn/winter 2011-12 collection.

question, seeing as Paris is one of the big

When asked about his most rewarding

fashion capitals, and has a lot to offer.

experience he answers straight away:

However, Marvin explains that « London is a

“Definitely the first fashion week I have

very creative and inspiring place », and it is

done assisting Ziad Ghanem. It was a lot of

for him « the most fashion foreward place in

pressure but everything went well, the show

the world. » He loves the fact that « London

was amazing. » His time at Ziad Ghanem

is amazingly open minded, and that you can

enabled him to gain confidence and to

find hundreds of differents styles in just

produce critically recognised and respected

one place ». Fair enough. He tells us that in

work. It also taught him how to work within

order to have a distinctive style, he always

a team, and how to handle the creativity and

keeps jewellery , particularly fashionable

desires of an established designer. He also

.watches and big wallet chains

worked as a collaborator on Ziad Ghanem’s

IF YOU REALLY WANT TO WORK, YOU CAN

But what of Marvin ‘s carreer ? He explains that he didn’t have a hard time looking for jobs and internship and adds that « if you

really want to work you can ». It seems quite comforting to hear positive statements

like this one in an industry with so much competition. He admits to have done

several small jobs, not related to Fashion,

just to earn some money and become more

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ready to wear label Maiden Britain, but a year after they started working together,

the collaboration ended. Marvin didn’t gave us any particular reason why it didn’t work out but he looks back on this period with a

professional outlook, claiming he has not any regrets considering he learnt a lot from all

.from his experience So what is Marvin up to lately ? At the moment he is not working for any brand ; he’s waiting for the right job. A luxury he allows himself due to the experience he already has accumulated at such a young age. In the meantime, he told us that he started working on a new project, the beginning of which we can see on his ESMOD mannequin. Indeed, he is focusing on a capsule collection for handprinted swimsuit, and he seems quite enthusiastic about it. He also wants to use his

spare time to go back to school, choosing from short course probably at Central St Martins College where they have a special formation on laser cutting. He says he has always been « fascinated by this technique and it would add something interesting to his resume ». In the near future, he admits wanting to « gain more experience as a freelance designer and develop his network » and he adds with modesty that « maybe one day to start something personal ». On this note full of hope and ambition, we thanked Marvin for having us and for sharing his background. We are sure Marvin is a guy to watch and that he will go far. We left the Mile End bedroom charmed by this singular personnality, taking care to not disturb the impeccable .layout of his room

CREDITS

PHOTOS Camille Leroy ARTICLES Camille Leroy LAYOUT Camille Leroy

MODEL Natalie Findlay Maxime

SPECIAL THANKS Gabrielle Stival Marvin Lavoillotte Jean Christophe Delmas