7 minute read
Want to brew?
Brewer in training
So, you want to be a brewer? Martin Ellis investigates
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Looking back over the past 30
years or so, many might consider the ubiquitous use of computers and mobile phones to be the most positive lifestyle change. The greatest life-changing development in the beer world is, arguably, the phenomenal increase in breweries (the Brewers Journal suggests more than 3,000, the Good Beer Guide has a figure of about 2,000).
So, where are the brewers of the future going to come from? How are they going to learn their craft? Perhaps careers officers now have brewer added to the list of dream jobs alongside professional footballer, pop star, celebrity, etc, when asking disaffected teenagers what they would like to do to pay the rent or mortgage when they leave school?
Probably not. However, if you want to work as a brewer, how and where do you learn the skills and knowledge? As you would expect, there are many routes to becoming a brewer, some requiring long-term academic study, others more condensed and practical.
The most important organisation awarding brewing qualifications is the Institute of Brewing & Distilling (IBD). Originally formed as the Laboratory Club in 1886, it was renamed the Institute of Brewing four years later in 1890.
Even during World War II, examinations were undertaken in prisoner of war camps and, after the conflict, in 1947, the IBD represented the UK at the European Brewers Congress. It has a major role in developing syllabuses for brewing courses, setting standards and running examinations around the world. It oversees around 4,000 brewing examinations annually, with 55 per cent for international students, and the rest from the UK.
It is the global professional body for brewers and distillers. The IBD is involved in brewing courses from entry level aimed at people who wish to learn out of interest, and upwards to master brewers managing large breweries. Since the Covid-19 pandemic, courses are becoming more often delivered online. The IBD’s Steve Curtis says: “Distance learning, similar in many ways to the Open University, has made our online tutor-led courses available to a global audience.”
Another trend following multiple lockdowns with people having time on their hands has been increased interest in courses for home brewing.
Heriot-Watt in Edinburgh is an old
and respected institution that started classes back in 1903, when courses were described as the study of brewing mycology. It has been teaching brewing long before the university was formed in 1966. The Heriot-Watt brewing department is now the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling (ICBD). The undergraduate programme features a BSc in Brewing and Distilling, while MScs in the same disciplines are available as a taught course or by research.
PhD students research diverse aspects of contemporary brewing and microbiology. I asked Dr Dawn Maskell, a director of the ICBD, what she considered to be the benefits of an academic approach to becoming a brewer. She says: “High levels of scientific and technical understanding make good problem-solvers.” She adds the courses enable people to identify problems that may occur and use their expertise to avoid issues. Following graduation, students go on to a range of roles within brewing, becoming assistant brewers, operations managers, working
in fulfilment, or allied trades such as maltsters, yeast companies and a few work in research.
Nottingham university teaches brewing at its International Centre for Brewing Science (ICBS). Most of its courses are at a postgraduate level, but it also runs short courses and, in partnership, delivers training to apprentice brewers on an 18-month programme.
Students at Newcastle university can learn about beer and brewing while studying something completely different. Stu Brew is a student society first established in 2014. The committee asked Chris O’Malley, a lecturer from the chemical engineering department, for advice about what equipment to buy and, ever since, he has taken the role of project leader. Stu Brew started as a home-brew club and got a government grant to buy equipment. At first, the society was mainly chemical engineering students – now it has people from a diverse range of subjects. It was also helped by a National Union of Students Green Fund grant. Members create and develop recipes, brew and learn about beer, brewing and the trade. Management of Stu Brew is by students elected to the committee. Many join at the freshers’ fair, some after attending the Stu Brew monthly bash where members and fellow students meet and drink at the brewery.
Committee member Jude says: “I am looking for a career related to beer, in particular a sales role for a brewery.”
Freddie in quality control says: “It’s an easy and good way to learn about beer and brewing. Super- friendly and welcoming.” I was told that when Stu Brew students see their beer in pubs they feel “like a proud parent”. Stu Brew students after graduation have gone on to work at large breweries including Diageo, Heineken (via the graduate entry scheme) and BrewDog. Other students have been hired by smaller breweries such as Full Circle Brewing Co, Gipsy Hill Brewing and North Brewing Co, while others have successfully set up their own brewery. First & Last, now firmly established in Northumberland, was set up by one of Stu Brew’s first committee members.
Brewlab in Sunderland is a major
resource to the brewing industry. Hundreds of small breweries that are not big enough to have a laboratory of their own use Brewlab’s facilities. It has also been the starting point for many operations. Alumni include Logan Plant, who set up Beavertown, and Gareth Williams from Tiny Rebel.
Since the mid-1980s, it has run a range of courses: a one-day taster session; a three-day course for people interested in setting up; a four-day course for those who have decided to start a brewery; while longer courses of three and nine weeks “turn a novice into a professional”.
The longer courses attract people from all over the world; many of the international students choose Brewlab because they are interested in producing cask beer. The courses attract a range of people – some are young and have decided on a career in brewing, and others are mature students who have decided they want a career change. Brewlab’s foundations are linked back to Sunderland university, but the approach is very much practical. Course coordinator Richard Hunt says: “We get people brewing as soon as possible.”
The courses cover brewing theory and science, however, while it is useful to have scientific knowledge, it isn’t a requirement because students will learn on the course. I was told many attending Brewlab courses haven’t been in a classroom for years.
Brew-School based in Bakewell,
Derbyshire, runs courses aimed at both amateur and professional brewers. Many are people who have decided they want to set up their own brewery.
Brew-School started with a one-day course in brewing and over time has developed a range of other options.
The school’s Chris Horne says: “The General Certificate in Brewing from the IBD is a basic brewing qualification equivalent to an A-level; we also run a training programme over a fortnight equivalent to an 18-month apprenticeship.”
Cider-making courses have become popular in May and September (perhaps due to CAMRA’s cider months). Those taking the course range from those keen to make cider at home, while others plan to start small-scale production.
People who have made the decision to set up a brewery might wish to consider training from companies that supply brewery equipment. PBC Brewery Solutions based in Salford and Yorkbased Brewing Services have between them been involved in setting up hundreds of breweries.
Both companies have an impressive track record of training brewers that win awards at CAMRA, SIBA and other beer competitions. They run courses, provide bespoke training and act as consultants.
A one-day course might be a sound investment for those who wish to dip their toe in the industry.
Highly successful Stewart Brewing in Edinburgh, Brewlab, Hukins Hops in Ashford, and London Beer Lab all have one-day brewing experiences, as does the Brewhouse & Kitchen brewpub and restaurant chain. Wetherby Brew Co has a half-day course.
It has not been possible to mention every course and training provider, and some may prefer to learn how to brew in other ways away from the classroom.
Some brewers are self-taught and learn by trial and error, first as keen home brewers and then scale up to a nano and then a microbrewer.
A more informal approach to learning how to brew is to get a job at a microbrewery. Some operations are very happy for people to come and learn on the job. This can work well – just don’t plan to set up your own operation nearby.
It is reassuring to see that with all the opportunities to learn how to brew, there shouldn’t be a shortage of skilled brewers to ensure we continue to have a vibrant UK brewing industry.
Martin Ellis is a book publisher. A member of CAMRA’s Tyneside & Northumberland branch, he was on the Books Committee for more than 25 years
