The Izakaya Way Of Life

by Steve Gillick

Get to know Tokyo by experiencing one of the city's many warm and lively izakayas.

©matya1234 / PIXTA

The expression “counter intelligence” has a very specific meaning when it comes to visiting Tokyo’s izakayas. An izakaya is simply an informal place to get together for food and drink. The word relates to the term sakaya, referring to sake—when food was served along with the sake, the izakaya was born! In Tokyo there are commercial chain izakayas as well as tiny neighbourhood izakayas that may have six or seven seats at a counter and one or two small tables set up. Those in the know can tell you (and here’s where “counter intelligence” comes in) that when you sit at the counter, you interact with the izakaya. You meet the chef (and usually their family), you see how the food is prepared and you meet other patrons. The net result is that your drinking and dining experience becomes one of personal involvement.

At Tsuzuku, near the Ushigome-yanagicho Metro Station, we had a memorable evening of melt-in-your-mouth seafood, mixed with great conversation and laughter with the owners. And then the final dish, Wasabi Meshi, was served. This is a bowl of steamed rice under a layer of freshly grated wasabi root (and, therefore, is extremely hot). We were told to grab a fistful of nori (strips of dried seaweed) from a container and sprinkle this on top of the wasabi root to dull the effects of the heat. When I took a polite fingerful of nori, the owner jokingly lectured me, then grabbed a whole fistful and placed it on my dish.

Now the two businessmen sitting at the small table behind me asked for tissues, as they had started eating their Wasabi Meshi and tears were freely flowing down their cheeks. They were laughing and crying at the same time. Then the woman to my left started waving at her mouth frantically to cool down the heat as the wasabi root took effect. And then when my two friends and I started to eat this delicious dish, our eyes welled up with tears. The entire izakaya was crying and laughing. The chef started to hand out bananas in order to quell the severe burning sensation in our mouths. So now, the seven or eight people in the izakaya were crying, laughing, eating bananas and developing a bond— a camaraderie—that turned the evening into one of the most pleasant and memorable I’ve experienced in Tokyo.

And then there were a few meals at Wasuke, an izakaya in Tokyo’s Kappabashi district. The owner, Noburo Shibata, studied ikebana (flower arranging) many years ago as part of the preparation for presenting food to his clients. Now when you order dishes such as the assorted sashimi, it’s presented as an artistic creation. And then as we got to know Noburo and his wife, Michiko, and even their kids, Ayumi and Hajime, over the years, we learned about his love for Tokyo’s festivals, where huge floats are carried by hundreds of men down the city streets—and Noburo is usually front and centre. And we also learned of the family’s love for the tradition of the izakaya when, after we treated our hosts to a few sakes, they proudly showed us their antique “Uguisu Tokkuri”: a decorated container used for serving sake, and when you pour it, a ceramic bird whistles! It was another friendly, warm evening.

The izakaya way of life is one of relaxed informality where you enjoy the atmosphere, the food, drinks and conversation. I’ve met locals, briefly, and ended up with Facebook friends for years afterward. So, be brave! Make a reservation through a tour guide or hotel consierge. Visit a neighbourhood izakaya and see what a great time, with great food, is all about!