Culture Reviews

At first glance, A.Bento appears to be a Japanese restaurant (the name is a nod to their rice-based lunch boxes) but the menu from chef William Chen and co-owner Aaron Zhou is packed with innovative but deeply informed Taiwanese dishes. It’s a reflection of how Taiwanese culture holds tightly to its traditional values while embracing modernity with a smart ease. The oyster-shrimp pancake is a glorious remix of the classic Chiuchow dish, lifted with wok-seared Taiwanese cabbage and a savoury-sweet sauce sharpened with miso and sriracha. Chinese cooking does not often use black pepper, but the night market-style beef short ribs employ fistfuls, resplendent with a heady floral bite. For those willing to swim in deep waters, the stew of pork intestines, pork blood and tender beef brisket thrums with pickled cabbage and soybeans: it’s a classic Taiwanese comfort dish reflecting an agrarian respect for whole-animal cookery. Creative cocktails mix traditional teas with whiskies, gins and just enough tropical juiciness to balance the deep richness of the food.

Heritage Asian Eatery

1108 W Pender St. eatheritage.ca

Well, this one didn’t survive the Broadway construction—at press time they announced their closure—but, fortunately, their original West Pender location thrives. Vancouver was once dotted with Chinese wonton shops that provided quick and accessible but well-made noodles and rice dishes. Heritage updates that tradition without sacrificing hand-crafted care. The generously proportioned wontons have the proper snap of well-made alkaline noodles and the siu mai dumplings burst with juicy freshness. The house-roasted Chinese BBQ duck is one of the best in the city: tender and rich, and roasted throughout the day to ensure its fresh immediacy. The beautifully set ramen eggs have what the Chinese would call “sugar hearted” yolks, in reference to their melting, caramelly texture. Heritage Asian Eatery is not just making delicious food: it’s preserving traditional techniques and an approachable style of dining for future generations of Vancouverites.

Get your fix of Taiwanese (right), and don’t sleep on the unforgettable, night market-style beef shortribs (below, left).

Heritage Asian Eatery

The salt-baked chicken with char siu pork belly on rice and roast duck (right) is delicious. Order black sesame balls, siu mai and savoury radish cake (bottom) for the table.

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