Where Canadian Rockies Winter 2013/14 by Where Canadian Rockies

CANADIAN

ROCKIES WINTER 2013/14

TIMELY INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS // www.where.ca

ADVENTURES

SKI AREA

FUN

canyon icewalks, climbs & skating

HIGH TECH CLOTHING ACTIVITIES & TOURS HOT RESTAURANTS CLIMBING WALLS

Y ACTIVITIES | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

D E D I C AT E D T O P E R F E C T I O N ASTRON. By developing a low-energy-consumption GPS receiver, Seiko has created a watch that connects to the GPS network and uses it to identify both time of day and time zones. The new Astron recognises all 39 time zones on earth and, by taking all the energy it needs from light alone, never needs a battery change.

Strattonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Jewellery Downtown Banff I 202 Banff ave I 403-762-4367 Downtown Canmore I 802 maIn St I 403-678-9999 StrattonSJewellery.Com I

Photo courtesy of Patagonia/Steve Ogle

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Calgary 135 8 Ave SW 403-266-6463

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Large selection of unset gems & finished jewellery Store Hours: Mon - Sat 10am - 5pm Sun noon - 5pm Tours: Mon - Sat 10am, 11am & noon $5.00 per person

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Miner & Producer of Ammolite since 1987

contents W I N T e r 2 0 13 / 14

Your TrAVeLLING CoMPANIoN SINCe 1936

the guide Banff & Area cAnmore, KAnAnAsKis, And lAKe louise Y entertAinment Y museums &

gAlleries

Y Activities

32 36 40 46

Y essentiAls

Y lodging

Y hot springs & spAs 62 Y shopping

>> Banff >> Canmore >> Lake Louise Y dining

>> Banff >> Canmore >> Lake Louise

66 72 77 78 91 98

Jasper

PHOTO: SuNSHINE VILLAgE

Y sightseeing

FeAtures

14 icy Adventures Canyon icewalks, skating, ice climbing and ice fishing. 17 reAching new heights Indoor climbing walls offer active respite from the cold.

Y sightseeing

100

18 sKi AreAs oF cAnAdA's mountAin pArKs Insiderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s guide: How to make the most of time on the slopes.

Y Activities

104

20 more thAn sKiing On-hill activities and events; no skis or snowboard required.

Y Art & entertAinment 102 Y lodging

Y shopping

110 112

Y dining

116

maps

122

22 lAyers oF wArmth Wool, goose down & high-tech synthetics to keep you toasty. 24 KootenAy rocKies Scenic sites, charming towns and opportunities for adventure. 121 over the hill Brief history of Marmot Basin honours their 50th anniversary. Our Cover: Canadian Tourism Commission photo taken at Maligne Canyon during an ice walk (p 14) guided by Maligne Adventures. Photographer Noel Hendrickson used a Canon EOS 5D Mark II camera with EF16-35mm lens (1/250 sec; f/4.0 ISO 640).

ELSEWHERE:

Where is an international network of magazines published for travellers since 1936 and distributed in over 3500 leading hotels in Canada: Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg United States: Alaska & The Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Indianapolis, Jacksonville, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County, Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St Louis, Washington DC. Europe: Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg Asia: Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore

CANADIAN

ROCKIES WINTER 2013/14

TIMELY INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS // www.where.ca

ADVENTURES

SKI AREA

FUN

canyon icewalks, climbs & skating

HIGH TECH CLOTHING ACTIVITIES & TOURS HOT RESTAURANTS CLIMBING WALLS

Y ACTIVITIES | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

WInteR 2013/14 //

where.ca

publisher/managing editor

Jack Newton, 403-678-1883

editor/production manager

Lisa Stephens, 403-678-1898

art director

Armando Pastorin, 403-678-1882

editorial assistance

Kirsten Varsek Frances & Neil Purslow

associate publisher/sales manager

Glenn Miles, 403-678-1868

circulation director

Warren Mackie, 403-609-2137

communications director

Jason Roach, 403-678-1889

accountant

Caroline Cousins-Mackie

Where Canadian Rockies magazine is published by RMV Publications Ltd. 244, 105 Bow Meadows Crescent Canmore, AB T1W 2W8 phone 403-678-1898 fax 403-678-3659 website rmvpublications.com email info@rmvpublications.com ISSN 1701-9710 Direct requests for copies to: phone 403-609-2137 fax 403-678-3659 email impact@rmvpublications.com Where Canadian Rockies is published twice a year, winter and summer. Single copies are $5 each for postage. Follow us on Twitter @whererockies For local advertising, contact: Glenn Miles, 1-888-783-9009 For national advertising, call: Catherine Lenihan, 416-955-4985 ÂŠ 2013 RMV Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without the written consent of the Publisher. QR Code creation, management & tracking by Delivr. delivr.com Where is a registered trademark of St. Joseph Media, a division of 1772887 Ontario Ltd., used under license. RMV Publications Ltd tries to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. Details such as prices and times are especially subject to change. Where Canadian Rockies is a member of: Banff Lake Louise Tourism Jasper Tourism & Commerce Tourism Canmore Kananaskis

PRINTED IN CANADA Free for Distribution 10

where.ca // canadian rockies

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A NOTE FROM THE EdiTOR

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For the last 10 years my job and life have been based in Calgary, making me a Rockies weekend warrior. Recently, I decided that I really should live in the mountains. I already had the sweet career writing about these peaks, so it made sense to make the move. Next thing I knew, my whole office has moved to Canmore and here I am looking out the window at snow capped Mount Lady Macdonald.

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Three Elegant Locations Banff 211 Banff Avenue 1-403-762-5588 Lobby, Rimrock Resort Hotel 1-403-762-4808 Lake Louise Lobby, The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise 1-403-522-3800 info@stones-canada.com 12

where.ca // canadian rockies

Since I’ve been writing about these mountain towns for a decade, I'm excited to experience it all as part of my daily life—tackling icy adventures (p 14), scaling indoor climbing walls (p 17), swooshing down freshly powdered slopes (p 18), creating snowshoe tracks, sampling the restaurants, buying from the shops and attending local festivals. Alas, I still haven’t found a permanent place to live, and now I understand the unique difficulties of housing in a small mountain town. But I’m looking forward to finding my home here. Then I won’t just be interviewing locals for their insights, I’ll actually be one! —Lisa Stephens

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Connector riders get 10% off Jasper’s Best Tours (see ad pg 106) Winter 2013/2014 //

where.ca

By Twyla Kowalchuk and Jack Wennot

Canyon Ice Walks Frozen canyons with towering walls are a legacy of giant glaciers that blanketed the Rocky Mountains. When these icefields receded 10,000 years ago, the eroding power of the ice and floodwaters carved natural wonders such as Maligne, Grotto and Johnston Canyons. When winter hits, rivers that ply canyon floors and waterfalls that cascade from limestone cliffs are impressively frozen in time. During canyon ice walks you are surrounded by magnificent frosty formations bathed in surreal blue light. The eerie silence is broken only by the crunch of ice crystals under14

where.ca // canadian rockies

foot and the rush of water in places where it breaks through its translucent barrier. Moon- and headlamp-lit excursions enhance the outof-this-world feeling, but if you go during the day you may see ice climbers engaged in their dramatic sport. Exercise caution if you trek canyons on your own. Winter boots offer little traction on slippery surfaces, so take ski poles and rent ice cleats (p 70, 75, 77 and 114) that strap onto footwear. Better (and safer) yet, take a tour with a licensed guide (p 47 and 105). Ice walk operators provide the gear, transport to and from the canyon and hot drinks. Guides show visitors

sights they would miss on their own, and relay insider knowledge about the canyon and its features. Popular canyons for half day and night tours are: Maligne Canyon (southeast of Jasper): Within the deepest gorge in the Rockies water surging from 20 km (12 mi) below the earth’s surface creates stunning ice formations. ”Go when it’s cold,” suggests guide Wayne Robinson. “Beautiful feather frost comes out of cave vents when it’s -20°C (-4°F).” Highlights include the 30 m (80 ft) towering Queen of Maligne and Angel icefalls. Moonlit forays into the canyon are magical;

PHOTOS: SKATInG & ICE MAGIC SCulPTuRE, BAnFF lAKE lOuISE TOuRISM/PAul ZIZKA

Mountain fun can be served up on ice as well as snow. While skiers give on-slope ice the cold shoulder, frozen surfaces provide opportunities for good times at canyons, waterfalls and rinks.

headlamps illuminate the ice. Enter the canyon at 5th Bridge off Maligne Lake Rd (Map 5, 4M). Johnston Canyon (west of Banff townsite): The crowds diminish in winter; good news for ice walkers who like their nature tranquil. Stroll steel boardwalks anchored to the limestone walls, and pass through a natural rock tunnel to get to the 10 m (33 ft) Lower Falls. Ice cascades tinted blue-green by minerals shine against the yellowgrey limestone walls. 30 m (98 ft) Upper Falls is the Cathedral of Ice, “a dramatic site,” says guide Daymon Miller. The trailhead is by Johnston Canyon Resort (closed winter), Bow Valley Pkwy/Hwy 1A (Map 1, 8B).

PHOTo: Johnston Canyon, Discover Banff Tours

Grotto Canyon (east of Canmore): Grotto is the least travelled of the three canyons; the further into the gorge, the higher the cliffs rise. “One of the secrets are First Nations rock paintings,” says Miller. “But they’re hard to find if you don’t know where to look.” Easier to spot are the

Johnston Canyon icefalls that rise to 28 m (90 ft) from the frozen valley floor; you may spot ice climbers deftly maneuvering high above. The trail starts at the Grotto Pond parking lot (Map 1, 8I), Hwy 1A near Exshaw; walk west past the Baymag magnesium plant and north along the creek bed.

Skating Gliding across a frozen lake with vast nature all around (sometimes with hockey stick in hand) is a quintessential Canadian pastime that stirs a sense of freedom. Give it a try, although firsttimers find it’s not as easy at it looks. Skate rentals are offered at local sport stores (p 70, 75, 77 and 114). Use only venues maintained for

skating, as you don’t want to end up on the wrong side of the ice. There’s no charge to use any of these outdoor rinks, while the indoor facilities charge a small fee: Jasper: At The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (Map 5, 7I), ice on the Lac Beauvert rectangular rink and the huge oval on Lake Mildred is kept smooth by frequent staff maintenance and occasionally-run Zamboni resurfacing machine. Rinks inside the oval often host shinny (impromptu hockey without the pads). On weekends there are bonfires and free hot chocolate. In town, the Jasper Activity Centre (p 107) offers indoor skating and drop-in hockey. WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

Kananaskis Village: There is skating on quaint Village Centre Pond (Map 1, 8I) in the park-like courtyard. nearby is a hockey rink, and both venues are lit at night. Canmore: Two blocks from Main St is Canmore Pond (7 Ave at 10 St, Map 4, 7F), a large skating area where hockey sticks are not allowed. Hockey-friendly rinks are in Cougar Creek and by Canmore Daycare. Indoor skating is at Canmore Recreation Centre (p 52). 16

where.ca // canadian rockies

Ice Climbing local climbers seem to defy gravity when they scale icefalls. This technical sport can be safely experienced by first-timers who go with instructors and gear provided by yamnuska Mountain Adventures (p 48) in Canmore and Banff or Jasper’s Gravity Gear (p 108). They learn to ascend the ice using hand-held axes and spiked crampons affixed to climbing boots. Safety is provided by a belay system that consists of 4000 pound-rated ice screws, harness and ropes (one end is attached to the climber; the other controlled by the guide’s steady hand). Where editor lisa Stephens explains that on her first climb, her yamanuska guide “taught me how to choose

good ice to pick with the axes. I climbed a few feet and descended using the belay; each time I went higher. It was exhilarating, and easier than I anticipated.” lessons are offered all winter; during the MEC Ice Climbing Festival (Jan 31-Feb 2, p 38) yamnuska experts host clinics on the Banff Avenue Ice Wall.

Ice Fishing unlike other icy activities, fishers are interested in what’s under the frozen surface (here mostly lake trout and whitefish). Fishers auger a hole through the ice and drop a line with a tube jig, spoon or fly. up and down action attracts fish. Banff Fishing unlimited (p 52) operates heated shelters on Spray lakes near Canmore; lunch is often the fresh catch.

Pro Hockey The national Hockey league (nHl) is where the world’s best players of Canada’s game ply their trade. In the Bow Valley, locals root for the Calgary Flames, while in Jasper the Edmonton Oilers are the favourite team. During games, sport HD TVs at local bars (p 39 and 103) are tuned to hockey. Drop in for a pint and to take in the action. Better yet, rub shoulders with Flames fans during an nHl game at the Calgary Saddledome. Banff Adventures (p 52) offers trips; en route guides enlighten with hockey trivia and information.

PHOTO: yAMnuSKA MOunTAIn ADVEnTuRES

Banff: Evergreens, a Rundle Mountain view and a fire pit provide ambiance at the rink by the Waldhaus Restaurant & Pub behind The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel (Map 3, 20l). you can skate indoors or out (and play shinny) at The Fenlands Banff Recreation Centre (p 52).

Lake Louise: Victoria Glacier provides a sublime backdrop for the Zamboni smooth rink on lake louise behind The Fairmont Chateau lake louise (Map 2, 14C). There is a hockey area that hosts the Lake Louise Pond Hockey Classic (Feb 21-23, p 38), a beautiful ice castle that is lit at night and free hot chocolate. The amazing ice sculptures carved during the Ice Magic competition (Jan 17-19, p 38) add to the magical atmosphere.

PHOTOs: Climbing HOld, THe banff CenTre; Climbing Wall, elevaTiOn PlaCe

Indoor climbing walls offer active respite from the cold By Kirsten Varsek if you want an energetic break from cold scott adds, “our ‘rocktopia’ offers texture weather sports, visit our local indoor climbthat simulates outdoor rock. and our six ing walls. “Climbing is good cross-training; auto-belays are great for beginners; after an the balance and strength required transfer orientation you can climb without a partner over to activities like skiing and snowboardor belay test.” He concludes, “some climbing,” says scott mcKay at Canmore’s elevaing gyms are dark and dingy. but elevation tion Place. Chris neve at The banff Centre Place has natural light and mountain views. sally borden fitness facility agrees: “Climbathletes that climb here really appreciate ing builds upper and lower body strength, that connection with the outdoors.” flexibility and endurance. best of all, it’s fun!” The banff Centre’s 4500 square foot elevation Place and the Jasper fitness & wall has 14 top-rope routes, and a climbing aquatic Centre climbing gyms have recently arch. “athletes can climb up one side, cross opened. scott notes that during construcupside down and descend the other side,” tion of elevation Place says Chris. “Our fea(known as Canmore’s tures are moved regu"Athletes that climb indoor playground), larly to keep climbs here really appreciate “we designed the wall challenging.” The facilthat connection with with climbing comity’s unique location the outdoors." munity input; there’s attracts unusual climbsomething for climbers ers. “The Centre hosts of every level.” Jasper’s international artists bouldering wall also utilizfrom dancers to circus es community feedback. performers. They use the “routes are reset by Jasclimbing gym to create per Climbing association new acts, and to practice volunteers every three their craft,” says Chris. months,” notes manager day passes for banff, natasha melanchak. Canmore and Jasper at elevation Place, the walls include access to 10,000 square feet of fitness centres and pools. climbing surfaces that elevation Place’s fee also rise up to 45 feet include includes climbing classes bouldering terrain and a while changing courses at speed wall designed by The banff Centre are $10. the international federasee pages 48 and 109 for tion of sport Climbing. more details. WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

Lake Louise

Marmot Basin

Mount Norquay

Sunshine Village

Insider Guide

The region known as Canada’s Mountain Parks includes the UNESCO World Heritage Site that encompasses Banff and Jasper National Parks as well as Kananaskis Provincial Park east of Banff. This majestic wilderness with knock-your-socks-off views and more peaks than people is home to five Alberta ski areas (the two BC ski areas that offer daily Banff shuttles are covered in our Kootenay Rockies section, page 24). Our world-class combination of tree lined and open bowl slopes, abundant snowfalls, high-speed lifts and on-hill amenities beckon skiers and boarders from around the globe.

Jasper National Park Marmot Basin (Map 1, 4M; 1-866-9523816) is 20-minutes south of Jasper townsite and 370 km/192 mi east of Edmonton via Hwy 16 west. From Banff/Lake Louise, take the 237 km/147 mi Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93N), a spectacular drive along the Continental Divide with 100 glaciers and abundant wildlife (for road conditions call 511). Mountain Connector (1-888-786-3641) offers bus transport to Jasper from Calgary, Banff and Edmonton, while Marmot’s ski bus 18

where.ca // canadian rockies

departs Jasper townsite locations three times daily. Marmot is unpretentious and uncrowded; lift lines are virtually non-existent. This year Marmot celebrates its 50th anniversary (see p 103 for events and p 121 for a brief history). Those who have not skied Marmot for a while will be impressed. In the past four years the installation of three new chairlifts has brought the total to seven lifts including the Canadian Rockies Express, the region’s longest high-speed quad. Marmot boasts 1675 acres, 914 m/3000 ft vertical rise, and 86 runs, glades and high alpine bowls framed by pinnacles and ridges. Snowmaking, terrain park and learning areas are lower mountain features. On the upper mountain, ride the Knob chair to access powder; also cross gates to Eagle East glades, hike 10-min to Cornice run or take Keefer’s Dream to the ‘hidden’ gate on skier’s left. Marmot’s early morning ski-witha-guide is the surest way for non-regulars to find virgin stashes. Sign up at skimarmot.com for a free My Marmot card, pre-loaded direct-to-lift tick-

PHOTOS: LAKE LOUISE/SUNSHINE, BANFF LAKE LOUISE TOURISM/PAUL ZIZKA; NORqUAy, ROgER WITNEy/PEAK PHOTOgRAPHy

Ski Areas of Canada’s Mountain Parks

ets at 10% off or other promotional rate. Or, buy ski passes, lessons and gear rentals in advance at Jasper’s downtown Marmot Sales Centre (p 114). Adult tickets are $82.50.

Banff National Park

PHOTOS: LAKE LOUISE FIREPLACE, PAUL ZIZKA; NORqUAy BOARDER, MIgUEL

Mount Norquay, Sunshine Village and Lake Louise Ski Area together are known as Banff’s Big3. At Banff Ski Hub (Downtown, 119 Banff Ave, 403-762-4754) purchase tri-area multi-day lift passes (with lesson options) that include ski bus shuttles.

Lake Louise Ski Area (Map 2, 22E; 1-877956-8473), the Canadian Rockies’ largest, is north of the TransCanada Hwy 1 across from Lake Louise Village 40-min west of Banff townsite. Bestowed “Best Ski Resort in Canada” honours at the 2013 World Travel Awards, The Lake features four mountain faces, 991 m/3250 ft vertical rise and sun-lit slopes all times of day. Ride 6-person grizzly Express gondola from the base to an upper ridge. From mid mountain, the region’s only 6-person high-speed chairlift (the ‘6-Pack’) rises to the Saddle. All local ski areas offer child care, but only Lake Louise hosts infants from 18 days old; the Learning & Adventure Centre has three beginner magic carpets. The Lake boasts 10 lifts plus 139 named bowls, chutes and tree-lined runs with some of the best fall-line skiing anywhere. Novice to advanced routes from every chair makes the entire resort accessible to all. Powder hounds find backside Whitehorn

slopes, Eagle Ridge 1 to 7 runs and Ptarmigan glades to be especially sweet. Access lifts a half-hour before opening by taking a First Tracks Private Lesson ($99 for two hours). The Lake’s terrain and jib parks include a Big Air Bag where experts test stunts. Download the new Lake Louise Ski Resort App to track runs, elevation gain, speed and proximity to lodges. Adult tickets are $85. Sunshine Village is 8 km/5 mi west of Banff townsite via Hwy 1 (Map 1, 10A; 1-877542-2633). Canada’s highest ski resort boasts the Rockies’ longest ski season, to May 19. From the base the world’s fastest 8-passenger gondola rises to the village, six high-speed quads and five other lifts.

Built on three mountains with a 1070 m/ 3514 ft vertical, many of Sunshine’s 107 runs are above treeline with views to 80 km/50 mi; look south to Mt Assiniboine, Canada’s Matterhorn. Beginners ski Strawberry, cruisers on Boundary Bowl ski in both Alberta and BC, and free riders tackle “Canada’s most extreme off-piste” on Delirium Dive and Wild West where an avalanche transceiver, probe and shovel are required (rentals at Snowtips, p 71). Sunshine’s terrain and jib park boasts the region’s only half pipe. Adult tickets are $85. Mount Norquay, the Canadian Rockies’ original ski area (est. 1926), is only 10-min north of downtown Banff via Norquay Rd over Hwy 1 (Map 3, 10B; 403-762-4421). continued on page 21 WinTer 2013/14 //

where.ca

More than Skiing You don’t need skis or a snowboard to enjoy these activities and events

Tubing Speeding down the slopes on an inflatable tube is a delight for the whole family; groomed lanes ensure safe and smooth sliding. Nakiska Tube Park is the latest ($19, child $15), while Mt Norquay’s Tube Town (night-lit Fri and Sat) now boasts six chutes, two dedicated lifts and a kids’ play zone with a small sliding area ($30, child $20). At Lake Louise Sunny Tube Park you slide for $20 (youth $16). Snowshoeing Ptarmigan Ridge Tours at Lake Louise Ski Area ($59) with gondola ride and incredible views are suitable for beginners. Sunshine Village Top of the World tours ($72) with Banff shuttle, and gondola and chairlift ride, are operated by White Mountain Adventures (p 50). At Mt Norquay, three snowshoe trails begin at the base; rentals are $15, $10 for juniors. Sightseeing Ski Big3’s Tri-Area Sightseeing Ticket ($40, $30 ch) lets non-skiers see the scenery and action at Lake Louise, Sunshine Village and Mt Norquay. It includes shuttle to the ski areas, $12 food voucher, and gondola and chairlift rides. At Norquay, ride the same lift to the historic Teahouse as did Marilyn Monroe. Dining Bypass the cafeteria for a leisurely lunch at these table-service restaurants: 20

where.ca // canadian rockies

• Lake Louise: Indulge in gourmet pizza and Belgian beer at Powder Keg Lounge or a breakfast buffet and upscale lunch at their new Northface Bistro. At Sawyer’s Nook in backside Temple Lodge (ski access only) sit in the loft with vaulted beam ceilings; find two friends for a ‘shot ski’. • Sunshine Village: Sit by the fireplace or glass ‘view’ wall at Chimney Corner Lounge. Try historic Mad Trapper’s Saloon for smokehouse fare, and spring weekend Veuve Clicquot champagne and oyster bar. ‘Taste of Sunshine’ Friday dinners at Eagle Nest include gondola access. • Nakiska: Mammoth Big Nak burgers (Ski Canada magazine’s ‘best big bun’) are served in the upstairs lounge with fireplace, balcony and big screen sports. • Marmot Basin: Eagle Dining Room and Charlie’s Lounge in mid-mountain Eagle Chalet (the area’s oldest building) display historic ski gear and photos and maintain the authenticity of the ski area’s early days. Big decks beckon on sunny days. Best Races & Festivals Watch the world’s top racers prepare for the 2014 Sochi Winter Olympics during these marque events: • Lake Louise Winterstart World Cup: Nov 30 men’s downhill; Dec 1 men’s super-g; Dec 6 women’s downhill; Dec 7 women’s Super g. This is an annual event.

PHOTO: MT NORqUAy TUBE TOWN, BANFF LAKE LOUISE TOURISM/PAUL ZIZKA

By Kirsten Varsek

PHOTO: BANFF LAKE LOUISE TOURISM

Monster Energy Ruckus in the Rockies • Lake Louise Snowboard Cross World Cup: May 2-3 snowboard jams, live music, Sat Dec 20-21; Over 20 nations battle for gold; night after party and May 3 Bikinis for Canada’s ladies team includes last years Breast Cancer women’s group ski. World Cup champion and defending • Sunshine Village: Bikinis & Boardshorts Olympic gold medalist Maelle Ricker. May 18 breast cancer research fundraiser. • Nakiska Audi FIS Ski Cross World Cup: Dec 6-7 Slush Cup May 19 icy pond jump attempts. 4-lane course with jumps and tight turns. • After Sochi (but fun to watch) is Lake Lou- • Nakiska: Apr TBA Spring Fiesta. ise Canadian Powder 8 Championship: Mar 1 • Norquay: Cardboard Sled Derby Jan 25 races. 80s Day Apr 5 retro suits and tunes. teams of two carve steep slopes. • Marmot: Jasper in January Jan 17-Feb 2 in-town and on-hill music, free dog Join the fun at these on-hill parties: sledding and sleigh rides, • Lake Louise: Torchlight Dinner & Ski (Dec 25 and fireworks. and 31, Feb 14, Mar 14; $69) mid-mountain drinks, torch-lit ski, buffet and band. Mountain Takeover weekends in Apr with live music, DJ-hosted BBqs and Apr 12 Cardboard Box Downhill Derby sled races.

continued from page 19 There is a vertical rise of 503 m/1650 ft, 28 runs, five lifts (including beginner Spirit chair with new loading conveyor) and Canada’s original double black slope. Locals go for a half day break from work, and their kids learn to ski and race here.

Kananaskis Provincial Park

Norquay is owned by ski enthusiasts who cherish the resort’s family-friendly character. World Cup gold medalist Ken Read is involved; giver grandi run honours Banff Olympian Thomas grandi. Norquay is the only hill in Alberta’s Rockies to offer night skiing and terrain park use (Fri-Sat, JanMar). Adult tickets are $61; Alberta residents can ski for only $2 during Toonie Days (Jan 8, Feb 5, Mar 5 and Apr 8).

Nakiska offers a 779m/2556 ft vertical rise and extensive snowmaking. Long runs and nightly grooming make this a carving favourite and there are self-contained beginner zones (new Homesteader Bypass offers easy access to the base area). Recently expanded Monster glades offer the best bet for powder stashes; ride Nakiska’s Silver quad to watch Najibska Park tricksters. Adult tickets are $72.

Nakiska was built between Banff and Calgary, 15-min south of Hwy 1 via Hwy 40 (Map 1, 8I; 403-591-7777), to host the 1988 Winter Olympics. Beautiful Kananaskis Valley views are in abundance and Kananaskis Village resort is only minutes away.

WinTer 2013/14 //

where.ca

Wool, goose down & high-tech synthetics By Kirsten Varsek

hopping for winter sport clothing can be daunting: so many styles have few discernible differences. We suggest attacking the maze of snow suits with the rallying motto: “I just want to stay warm!”

Base Layer: Some outdoor enthusiasts begin layering with their favourite t-shirt. But moisture-absorbing cotton is more likely to be hypothermia-inducing than, well, insulating. Instead, choose spun synthetic underwear that wicks moisture from the body such as Helly Hansen’s HH Dry made from Lifa polypropylene. “This hollow, lightweight fibre mimics polar bear fur and effectively traps body heat,” explains Banff Helly Hansen’s John Walters. Non-itchy merino wool base layers are also top performers. Mid-Layer: Wool is an effective natural insulator that has remained popular during the era of synthetic innovation. But successors of the first synthetic pile developed in 1961, such as The North Face’s TKA fleece, are today’s prevalent mid-layers. In the Rockies, fleece is ubiquitous as both sport and day wear. 22

where.ca // canadian rockies

Outer Layer: American aviators wore goose down filled jackets during WWII; this insulator is still cherished for its incomparable light weight and warmth. “Down is also very compressible,” says Tim. “It’s really good for cold, dry climates like the Rockies.” The ‘fill power’ of goose down indicates warmthto-weight ratio and compressibility; Patagonia’s limited edition Encapsil Down Belay Parka boasts an unprecedented 1000-fill.

“Look for the most warmth for the least weight.” But Anne Elkins at Chateau Mountain Sports notes that “synthetic insulators perform well and cost less than natural products.” And unlike down, they insulate when wet. The North Face’s lightweight ThermoBall jackets employ ‘frayed’ PrimaLoft clusters that imitate down’s ability to trap warm air and offer the same warmth as 600-fill. A quality base layer, mid-layer and insulated outer layer will keep you “warm and happy on the slopes,” says Anne. Peruse our sport stores (p 67, 73, 77, 113) to discover top technologies to keep you toasty.

PHOTO: THERMAL-BALL JACKET, THE NORTH FACE

Leading outdoor clothing companies like The North Face, Patagonia and Helly Hansen organize their winter products into threelayer systems. Tim Johnson of Patagonia Banff explains that you need “a base layer to remove moisture, a breathable mid-layer to trap body heat and an outer layer to protect against the elements.” When comparing fabrics and insulators, Tim suggests, “Look for the most warmth for the least weight.”

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CONFIDENT WHEN IT MATTERS HELLY HANSEN RETAIL STORES: Helly Hansen store HELLY HANSEN BANFF Downtown Banff 201 BANFF 201 Banff AVE ave BANFF, AB Banff, aB T1L t1l 1G4 1G4 403.760.8282

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Photo: Bruno Long

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scenic wilderness of eople travel to the Yoho National Park Kootenay Rock(1-250-343-6783). ies, the region that • Spiral Tunnels roadborders Banff to the side stop offers a look at west and south, for tracks that cut through the day or a multi-day Mt Ogden and Cathevacation. A big draw is dral Mtn; the reduced the motorized advengradient lets trains ease tures restricted in the into the valley. national parks, such • Town of Field, 30 km/ as snowmobiling and 19 mi from Lake Louise, heli-skiing. There are the soothing waters of offers food, lodging and Kicking Horse Radium and Fairmont a Parks Canada Visitor hot springs, ski big mountain resorts like Kicking Centre with a small fossil display. Horse and Panorama, and quaint towns (map • Emerald Lake is via Emerald Lake Rd; Natural Rock page 122) that extend a warm welcome to visitors. Bridge is en route. Ski/snowshoe the 5 km/3 mi lake trail; dine at Emerald Lake Lodge (1-800-663-6336). BANFF TO REVELSTOKE: 283 km/176 mi • Wapta Falls with Ottertail Range backdrop is 23 km/14 mi west of Field. Access is by a 2.3 km/1.4 Take the Trans-Canada Hwy west of Lake Louise. mi ski or snowshoe (walk to the lower viewpoint). Crest the Continental Divide and descend to the 24

where.ca // Kootenay RocKies

PHOTOS: BRIDGE, CHERYL GOODWIN

Split by the Kicking Horse River and bordering the Columbia River Wetlands, the Town of Golden (1-800-622-4653) is 83 km/52 mi west of Lake Louise. Its history is steeped in the railway, logging and Swiss Guides who first led tourists up mountain peaks. With full visitor amenities, skiing at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, and proximity to Yoho and Glacier national parks, Golden offers sightseeing, adventure and family-friendly activities. The BC Visitor Centre at Golden (111 Golden Donald Upper Rd, north Hwy 1) is open daily 9 am-4 pm. • Kicking Horse Pedestrian Bridge is North America’s longest freestanding timber-frame crossing. • Edelweiss Swiss Village is a historic area where Swiss Guides families were housed a century ago. • Golden Museum & Archives (1-250-344-5169; Mon-Fri 9 am-5 pm) interprets Swiss Guides, the first Sikh people, geographer David Thompson, Columbia River riverboats and travelling displays. • Dawn Mountain Nordic Centre has 35 km/22 mi of groomed classic and skate trails, and a chalet.

Lake Louise. There are many lodging, dining and nightlife choices; adult lift tickets are $84. Kicking Horse is named for an 1858 event when Sir James Hector was presumed dead after being kicked by a horse; he regained consciousness before burial. • Golden Eagle Express Gondola rises to an upper ridge; it’s an exhilarating 1260 m/4133 ft run down one of the region’s highest vertical rises. Four other lifts include Stairway to Heaven quad that accesses Fuze Bowl, former heli-ski terrain. Four powder bowls and ridge traverses to 87 steep chutes define the Resort’s signature terrain. • The Pony family skiing zone has expanded, and a new Learning Center offers lessons and ‘camps’. • Tube Zone is serviced by the Jelly Bean surface lift; drop by Saturdays for disco tubing.

Golden

Toby Creek Adventures

Golden Golf & Country Club has 6 km/4 mi of classic groomed trails. At Moonraker Trails, skiers and snowshoers break trail by forests and Cedar Lake. • Heli-ski and cat-ski companies, and backcountry lodges (many with heat, showers and meals) offer wilderness powder bowl skiing and touring. • Snowmobilers delight in 240 km/150 mi of groomed trails. New family-friendly West Bench Trail connects to Quartz Creek and Gorman Lake where advanced sledders tackle steep terrain. • Backcountry trails also access lakes where ice fishers snag rainbow and brook trout. • Indoor recreation includes skating and shinny hockey at Golden Arena and basketball, badminton and volleyball at Mt 7 Rec Plex (both 1-250-3442271 ext 225); curling at Golden Curling Club (1-250-344-7457); indoor climbing and bouldering at Dogtooth Climbing Gym (1-250-344-6444). • Events include Snow King’s Costume Ball & Parade (Feb 14-15); Film Kicks (Jan 16, Feb 6, Mar 6 and Apr 3); Live Kicks music and dance (dates TBA).

• Village Rink has a fire pit, warming hut and music. Skate rentals are available; hockey sticks are allowed. • Kicking Horse Powder Express runs day trips from Banff/Lake Louise ($90 with lift pass); book at Discover Banff Tours (1-877-565-9372). • Eagle’s Eye Restaurant with timber and stone decor, awesome views and Rocky Mountain/west coast cuisine is Canada’s highest. Ride the gondola to daily lunch (11 am-3:30 pm), Fri/Sat dinner, and Winter Dinner Series 4-courses paired with wine, (Jan 25 Water, Mar 15 Fire, Apr 11 Earth). • Events include Wrangle the Chute pro-rider showdown (Mar 14-16); Sun Splash Funk Fest dummy downhill, slush cup, live music (Apr 5-6 and 12-13).

Kicking Horse Mountain Resort (1-866-754-5425), known as the ‘Champagne Capital’ for its abundant dry snow, is 14 km/8 mi from Golden. The resort is under two hours west of Banff and one hour from

Continue west on Hwy 1 to Glacier National Park and Rogers Pass, named for Albert Bowman Rogers’ expedition to find passage through “impenetrable peaks” of the Selkirk Mountains. Hike to the Illecillewaet Glacier or backcountry ski deep powder. • Rogers Pass Discovery Centre (1-250-8377500) offers exhibits, interpretive films and a fireplace. Get backcountry ski permits here. • A.O. Wheeler Hut and Asulkan Cabin are backcountry cabins operated by the Alpine Club of Canada (403-678-3200 ext 0). WinteR 2013/14 //

KootenayRockies.mobi

Exit Kootenay National Park through the red rocks of Sinclair Canyon to reach the Village of Radium Hot Springs (Visitor Centre 1-888-347-9331), 139 km/86 mi from Banff at the crossroads of Hwys 93 and 95. Motels, shops and restaurants (many with post WWII architecture) line Radium's main streets where bighorn sheep often wander. • Radium Hot Springs (p 64) amongst cliffs has a huge hot pool, a 25-metre cool pool (open even in winter), plunge pool and steam rooms. • Queen of Peace station of the cross sculptures are located behind the Canadian Martyrs Church. • Nipika (1-877-647-4525) offers 100 km of backcounty trails; 50 km are groomed for classic and

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where.ca // Kootenay RocKies

Fairmont Hot Springs

skate skiing (ski and snowshoe rentals available). • Hike or snowshoe Douglas fir-lined Valley View Tr (1.8 km/1.1 mi) from town to Redstreak Campground; valley floor Sinclair Creek/Juniper Tr (3.2 km/2 mi) from town to the hot springs; Old Coach Trail (9 km/5.6 mi) from town south to Dry Gulch. The Town of Invermere (1-250-342-2844) on Lake Windermere, 11 km/8 mi south of Radium via Hwy 93/95, offers an arts scene, shop and restaurant lined main street, and access to Panorama skiing. • Whiteway on Lake Windermere 17 km/10.6 mi skating, skiing and walking trail starts at Kinsman Beach. There is also skating on Lake Lillian.

PHOTO: KYLA BROWN PHOTOGRAPHY

BANFF TO FERNIE (361 km/224 mi) South off Hwy 1 between Banff and Lake Louise, the Banff-Windermere Hwy 93S rises to the BC border, descends into Kootenay National Park (1-888-773-8888) and ends at Radium Hot Springs. Marvel at the mountain and river scenery. • Marble Canyon .8 km/.5 mi trail boasts polished rock and seven footbridges over 40 m/131 ft deep Tokumm Creek gorge. Walk with poles (or snowshoes) and watch for ice climbers. A 3.2 km/2 mi connector trail leads to Paint Pots springs. • Kootenay Valley Viewpoint at the height-of-land south of Settler Rd offers an impressive vista.

240km of snowmobile trails 35km of Nordic ski trails 20 backcountry lodges 5 world class ski resorts close by 4 heli & cat ski operations

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where.ca // Kootenay RocKies

• Ice fishing huts are on local lakes; rentals offered. • Indoor recreation includes skating/hockey at Eddie Mountain Memorial Arena (1-250-342-6712); curling at Invermere Curling Centre (1-250-342-3315). • Windermere Valley Museum (1-250-342-9769) has heritage buildings/displays (winter open Tues). • Dining at Eagle Ranch Golf Course (1-877-8773889) includes upscale Rustica Steakhouse’s $99 3-course ‘date night’ for two Fri and Sat with Canadian Prime steaks and a bottle of wine. More casual Traders Lounge offers a $12 ‘bottomless’ soup and sandwich at lunch and nightly specials like Wed PEI mussels, Thurs ethnic dishes and Fri cod fry. • Events include Snowflake Festival & Curling on the Lake (Jan 17-19); Cinefest (Dec 10, Jan 14, Feb 11, Mar 11, 22, 23, Apr 8). Go 18 km/11 mi west of Invermere to Panorama Mountain Village (1-800-663-2929), a 2847 acre ski area two hours from Banff. The resort boasts skiin/ski-out lodging, restaurants (including new Fireside Bistro), T-Bar après ski and hot pools complex. View of 1000 Peaks run lives up to its name; Purcell range vistas are dominated by iconic Mt Nelson. • PanoPass (one-day adult $77) allows downhill skiing (including night skiing Thurs to Sat), crosscountry skiing, tubing and tobogganing. • Banff and Canmore Shuttle one-day package with PanoPass is $89 (book 1-866-416-2034). • Taynton Bowl (former heli-ski terrain), Sun Bowl and 120 trails and are accessed from 9 lifts. • 1225 m/4019 ft vertical rise, Extreme Dream glades, long (and newly widened) Skyline and Rollercoaster cruisers, and improved Ski Tip Way and Stringer beginner slopes are ski highlights. • Tube Park (with 3 lanes); new Toboggan Park. • Nordic Centre 20 km/12.5 mi of groomed trails. • Events include IPC ParaAlpine World Cup (Jan 8-14); 8 festivals like Stampede (Mar 8-9), Hawaiian Luau (Mar 29-30), Easy Rider Snowboard Cup (Apr 5-6). • RK Heliski (1-800-661-6060, p 52) offers daily packages for intermediate and advanced skiers/ boarders with guide, fat skis, transceiver, hot heli-plex breakfast and picnic lunch. Access 1500 sq km/ 580 sq mi with 900 runs 500-1500 vertical m/ 1600-4800 ft. Multi-day packages are available. • Snowmobile tours run by Toby Creek Adventures (1-888-357-4449, p 56) access forest trails, powder bowls, icefalls, heated trapper’s cabin (lunch spot) and silver mining ghost town. Half and full day trips with gear, guides and machines to 170 hp are for beginners, families and advanced riders. Free transport from Banff/Canmore is available. Eighteen km/11 mi south of Invermere near Columbia Lake and hoodoo rock spires is Fairmont Hot Springs (Resort 1-800-663-4979). Day and overnight visitors enjoy many activities year round. • Accommodation choices include lodge rooms

Where The Food Tastes As Inspired As The Views.

Open Wed–Sun 11am–9pm 9581 Eagle Ranch Trail, Invermere BC 1.877.877.3889 eagleranchresort.com WinteR 2013/14 //

KootenayRockies.mobi

and chalets. Dining options include pub-style Bear’s Paw Bar & Grill, Mountain Flowers family restaurant and Steamers Café for coffee. • Canada’s largest natural hot springs feature a hot pool (39°C/102°F), swimming pool (32°C/89°F) and diving pool; 1.5 million gallons flow daily. Every night the pools are drained, cleaned and re-filled. • Fairmont Ski Area is family-friendly, has 14 runs, 304 m/997 ft vertical rise, daylodge with Desperados restaurant, ski shop/rentals and ski school. Lift tickets (adults $45) include hot pools use. • Tube Park is 3 lanes, Rock Star Terrain Park has expanded and there is a new kids terrain park. • Cross-country ski Fairmont’s 14 km/9 mi trail. City of Kimberley (1-866-431-7669) is 84 km/ 52 mi south of Fairmont via Hwy 93/95 and 95A. • The Platzl pedestrian area has shops, cafés, a museum and Canada’s largest freestanding cuckoo clock. • Kimberley Nordic Centre offers 40 km/25 mi of groomed double and single track, skating lane, sprint loop and night-lit track plus a daylodge. • Indoor recreation (1-250-427-9660) includes free skating, drop-in hockey, pool, hot tub and lazy river. • Kimberley Alpine Resort (1-800-258-7669) offers 1800 acres and 2465 vertical ft/751 m of skiing and boarding, long fall-line runs on wide cruisers and enormous glades. There are five lifts,

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fairmonthotsprings.com See website for terms and conditions.

where.ca // Kootenay RocKies

RK Heli Ski

stunning Kootenay Valley views, gated Kids World and forest trails loved by youngsters. The village includes ski-in/ski-out lodging from luxury to budget, skating rink and fire pit. Spring Slash/Dummy Downhill is Apr 5-6. Adult lift tickets are $70. • Fort Steele Heritage Town (1-250-417-6000) recreates life during the late 1800s gold rush. • St Eugene Golf Resort Casino (1-877-417-3133) houses Ktunaxa Nation heritage and craft displays. 120 km/75 mi southeast of Kimberley via Hwy 3, the City of Fernie (1-250-423-6868) was founded in 1898 to serve the railway and Coal Creek mine. Stroll Elk River trails (one by 400-year old cottonwoods) and visit the grand 1899 courthouse. • Island Lake Lodge (1-888-422-8754) has a spa and 7000 acres for daily cat skiing and ski touring. • Fernie Miners Walk includes garden pathways, interpretive displays and a sculpture at city hall. • Clawhammer Press (1-778-519-5010) letterpress and studio runs century-old printing machines. • Fernie Derrick is BC’s last wooden oil derrick. • Public skating and shinny hockey is offered at Fernie Memorial Arena (1-250-423-4466 ext 0) • Snowshoeing and snowmobiling tours are offered. • Fernie Alpine Resort (1-800-258-7669), World Snow Awards 2012 “best North America Resort,” is known for its 11.5 m/38 ft annual snowfall and ski-to-your-door lodging. Its 2500 acres boast 1082 vertical m/3550 ft, 10 lifts (with 2 high-speed quads) and five powder bowls that now easier to access via above-treeline Polar Peak lift. There is a stellar Elk Valley view (plus Alberta and Montana peaks), free mountain tours, night-lit slopes Fri, Sat and holidays, and zipline thrills. Griz Days (Feb 28-Mar 2) includes beer gardens, music, rail jam and parade, Behind Enemy Lines (Apr 3-6) has extreme speed racing and Fernival (Apr 12) is the season-end party. Adult lift passes are $84.

Louise Y Banff•Lake Canmore•kananaskis

hot sights

Riverside Amble

A flowing river backdropped by snow capped Three Sisters mountain make Canmore’s Bow River trails (Map 4, 8E to 10E) worth the winter layering. The popular loop takes 25 minutes, but over 70 km (44 mi) of connected trails let you walk until a hot chocolate craving prevails. Banff and Lake Louise have sweet riverside walking trails, too.—Kirsten Varsek

Peaks, River and a Train morant’s Curve (map 1, 4C), a stunning spot often seen in advertisements, is named for famed Canadian Pacific Railway photographer nicholas morant. take bow valley parkway (hwy 1a) 54 km/34 mi west from banff; from lake louise the site is 5 km/3 mi east. —kirsten varsek

LYNX

4" x 3.5"

WOLF

3.5" x 4.5"

COUGAR

ELK

Size (width by length) 4" x 3.5" 3" x 4.75" Walk | Trot Pattern

where.ca // banff, canmore, kananaskis, lake louise

CARIBOU

4" x 5"

DEER

2" x 3.5"

photos: three sisters, Cszmurlo/Wikimedia; morant's Curve, rob eull

Wildlife Track Guide

banff • Lake Louise • Canmore • Kananaskis SIGHTS

Driving Tours

photo: Vermilion Lakes, Graham Twomey

Bow Valley Parkway This 58 km (35 mi) route between Banff and Lake Louise is more leisurely than the Trans-Canada Hwy 1 (Map 1). To protect wildlife, the speed limit is mostly 60 kph (40 mph); watch for elk, bighorn sheep and deer. From Banff, go 5.5 km (3.4 mi) west on the TransCanada Hwy to the Bow Valley Pkwy entrance. At Johnston Canyon (25 km/15 mi), walk the 2.7 km (1.7 mi) interpretive trail along cliff anchored catwalks to icefalls (it’s slippery; consider renting ice cleats or take a guided tour). Moose Meadows (27 km/17 mi) was once Silver City with 5 mines, 6 hotels and 2000 residents from 1880 to 1887. No silver was found; the claim was ‘salted’ to attract investors. Down the road, unmistakable Castle Mountain’s crenelated cliffs were formed when older rock was thrust up and over younger rock. The Parkway climbs to Castle Mountain Viewpoint (36 km/22 mi) with expansive valley views. Baker Creek Bistro (52 km/33 mi) is a rustic stop for a meal or hot drink. Farther along, Morant’s Curve is a look-out with Bow River and railway view named for Canadian Pacific Railway photographer Nicholas Morant. The Bow Valley Parkway rejoins Hwy 1 at Lake Louise village. Icefields Parkway The spectacular 230 km (143 mi) Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93) connects Lake Louise with Jasper; the Columbia Icefields are 127 km (79 mi) north. This route traces the Continental Divide and showcases wildlife plus 100 glaciers on rugged peaks. Access the Parkway from Hwy 1 just west of Lake Louise. Going north, Hector Lake (16 km/10 mi) offers Mt Balfour and Waputik Range views. Above Bow Lake (33 km/ 21 mi), see Bow Glacier; to the left is Crowfoot Glacier, once shaped like a crow’s three toes. Bow Lake is a great spot for snowshoeing and x-country skiing; but Num-Ti-Jah Lodge is closed in winter. Bow Summit (40 km/25 mi), popular with telemark skiers, is the high point on the Parkway (2068 m/ 6875 ft) and a viewpoint for Peyto Lake, shaped like a wolf’s head. Signs tell of Englishman Bill Peyto, who became a mountain man in the 1890s. Continue to Mistaya Canyon and Saskatchewan River Crossing (77 km/48 mi). Distinctive Weeping Wall (103 km/64 mi) cliffs are streaked by icefalls fed by Cirrus

Lakeside Photography Banff Photography’s (p 54) Graham Twomey suggests you photograph mountain lakes during sunrise or sunset 'magic hour' when low light saturates peaks with warm alpenglow. Try framing an object like a rock or tree in the foreground of your shot and set your focus on this subject. Graham’s ‘most beautiful lakes’ list includes: • Lake Minnewanka (Map 1, 8J) To co-ordinate with a northern lights display, visit Aurorawatch.ca • Lake Louise (Map 2, 13N) is iconic with the Victoria Glacier bathed in sunrise light. Also try shooting the lake from the west of The Fairmont Chateau at sunset. • Vermilion Lakes (Map 1, 7I) is equally stunning in the morning and evening. —Kirsten Varsek Mountain meltwaters; ice climbers can often be seen. The moderate 3 km (1.8 mi) trail up Parker Ridge (116 km/ 72 mi), popular for ski touring, offers Saskatchewan Glacier views. Highlight of the Parkway is the Columbia Icefield (127 km/79 mi), 215 sq km (83 sq mi) and up to 365 m (1200 ft) deep. Its meltwaters flow west to the Pacific, north to the Arctic, and east to Hudson’s Bay and the Atlantic. This hydrological apex is one of two in the world; the other is in Siberia. Six major glaciers flow from the Icefield; visitors walk to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. Now it’s 103 km (64 mi) to Jasper, a route listed on p 101. Lake Louise & Area To reach the village of Lake Louise, drive 57 km (35 mi) west of Banff. Exit the TransCanada Hwy 1 onto Lake Louise Dr; the first right leads to the Lake Louise Visitor Centre with geology and history exhibits. Samson Mall boasts shops and restaurants; walking trails are on both sides of the Bow River. Continue 5 km (3 mi) on Lake Louise Dr to the lake and The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, a grand hotel built in the late 1800s by the Canadian Pacific Railway. The lakeshore promenade offers world famous views of Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier; sleigh

rides, skating, x-country skiing and snowshoeing are popular; admire the artistic Ice Magic sculptures. Return to the Village, cross over Hwy 1 and drive Whitehorn Rd to Lake Louise Ski Area, Canada’s second largest; even non-skiers enjoy bars and restaurants in the impressive log-built daylodge. Minnewanka Loop The 16 km (10 mi) route accesses Lake Minnewanka, largest lake in Banff Park, as well as historic sites and ski trails (Map 3); the northern half is closed Nov 15-Apr 15. From downtown, take Banff Ave north past the TransCanada Hwy interchange to Cascade Ponds, with picnic shelters and fire boxes. Turn right and drive past the Johnson Lake detour and alongside Two Jack Lake to Lake Minnewanka. There are lovely views, a 1.5 km (.9 mi) walking trail to Stewart Canyon and x-c skiing along Cascade Fire Road.

Townsite Walks Banff Culture Walk Self-guided walk to 16 art galleries, museums and other cultural sites. Free guide/ map at venues and Banff Visitor Centre, 224 Banff Ave. Map 3, 14P Banff Historical Walking Tour Self-guided 25 block, 1.5 WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff • Lake Louise • Canmore • Kananaskis WalkS winter) of hot springs, green ferns, birds and tropical fish. Start: Cave & Basin parking lot. Map 3, 19B Fenland Trail (Banff; 2.1 km/ 1.3 mi loop; easy) Peaceful interpretive trail by old growth spruce trees, 40 Mile Creek and Vermilion Lakes view. Start: Fenland Trail parking lot, Mt Norquay Rd. Map 3, 12C

Historic Lake Louise and Banff train stations helped usher tourism into the Canadian Rockies. While dining at the Lake Louise Station Restaurant (p 99), imagine 1910 railway workers lining up to use the bathtub in the furnace room. Banff Train Station’s arts-and-crafts architecture is a highlight of the Walking through Banff’s History (p 33) free self-guided tour. —Kirsten Varsek hour route to 42 heritage residences (from 1887), museums, churches, public buildings and a cemetery (1890). Blue interpretive plaques flag sites. Free guide/map at the Banff Visitor Centre, 224 Banff Ave, Map 3, 14P, museums, library and Town Hall. Banff Walking Tour Discover the scenic side of town (Map 3). Begin at Central Park where Banff Ave meets the Bow River; here is the Banff Park Museum, a National Historic Site with animal displays (closed to May). Stroll north along the Bow River Promenade to 2 km (1.2 mi) Fenland Loop Trail (Map 3, 13C) along Echo Creek and Vermilion Lake wetlands. Return to Central Park and cross the Bow River Bridge; go left for the 1.2 km (.8 mi) riverwalk to Bow Falls and the historic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. Or, go right (west) after crossing the Bow River Bridge and walk Sundance Trail by the river 1.5 km (.9 mi) to the Cave & Basin with birth-of-Banff and WWI internment camp exhibits, and boardwalks to springs, the cave vent and a warm water marsh where plants thrive in winter. En route to the Cave is fort-like Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum with First Nations displays. Free brochure maps for selfguided town tours are at the Banff Visitor Centre, 224 Banff Ave. Canmore Historic Walking Tour Self-guided walk; churches, police barracks, mines, museums and residences. Free guide/map at Can34

more Museum Map 4, 19C, NWMP Barracks Map 4, 20F, visitor centres. Canmore Walking Tour Discover history and natural beauty (Map 4). Start at the Northwest Mounted Police Barracks (609 Main St), a 1893 log cabin and tea room restored to its 1921 state with period furniture and NWMP exhibits. Go west on Main St to 1891 Ralph Connor Memorial United Church built by Presbyterian minister Charles Gordon, Canada’s first bestselling author with the pen-name Ralph Connor. Turn right at 6 Ave, then left at 9 St to Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre exhibits on coal mining history and geology. Next head south on 7 Ave and turn left on 7 St to the 1913 Miners Union Hall, now a community hall and cultural centre. Farther up 7 St is St Michael’s Anglican Church, a classic early 20th century Canadian church with pitched roof, belfry and spire. Return to Main St and go west to its end at Riverside Park with Bow River strolls. At the park’s north end is the 1919 CPR Trestle Bridge that links the town to abandoned mountainside coal mines. Cave & Basin Trails Discovery Boardwalk (Banff; .4 km/.3 mi; easy) Cave vent, hot springs with colourful plants and aquatic critters like the Banff Springs snail that exists nowhere else. Marsh Boardwalk (Banff .5 km/.3 mi; easy) Almost equatorial ecosystem (even in

where.ca // BANFF, CANMORE, KANANASKIS, LAKE LOUISE

Policeman’s Creek (Canmore, .7 km/.4 mi with longer options; easy) Flowing waters beside the trail never freeze; see waterfowl, song birds and brown trout. Start: Main Street Bridge by the NWMP Barracks; go south along the boardwalk or walk north to link with Canmore’s many Bow River trails. Map 4, 20G. Johnston Canyon Trail (Between Banff and Lake Louise; 1.1 km/.7 mi and 30 m elevation gain to Lower Falls; 2.7 km/1.7 mi and 120 m elevation gain to Upper Falls; moderately easy) Canyon depths along walkways anchored to limestone walls. Natural tunnel leads to Lower Falls. Canyon rim to Upper Falls. Ice cleats and hiking poles suggested; better yet, take a guided icewalk (p 47). Start: Johnston Canyon parking lot, Bow Valley Parkway 22 km/14 mi west of Banff. Map 1, 8C Stewart Canyon Trail (Banff; 1.5 km/0.9 mi one way; easy) Walk Lake Minnewanka shoreline trail to the bridge that crosses the Cascade River at Stewart Canyon. Start: Minnewanka parking lot. Map 3, 2H Surprise Corner to Hoodoos Viewpoint (Banff; 5.1 km/3.2 mi; moderately easy; 60 m elevation gain) Stunning Bow Falls view, forested trail paralleling the Bow River, open vistas along Hoodoos Tr beside Tunnel Mountain Rd and overlook of hoodoo rock spires. Start: Surprise Corner parking lot on Tunnel Mountain Dr. Map 3, 18L Tunnel Mountain Summit (Banff; 2.4 km/1.5 mi one way; moderate; 200 m elevation gain) Summit a mountain for views of town, Bow and Spray Valleys, and The Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. The steep trail (popular with locals seeking midday exercise) can be icy; use hiking poles. Start: St Julien Rd parking lot north of The Banff Centre. Map 3, 15J

photo: Lake Louise Train Station

Of Rockies & Railways

Louise Y Banff•Lake Canmore•kananaskis

entertainment

Beer Club

Learn about beer styles and international breweries from local and visiting brewmasters at Banff Ave Brewing Co (p 39) Beer Club talks and tastings (drop-in $10) held every Monday (except long weekends) at 8 pm. “It’s a great way to meet people,” notes bar manager Adam Bortolussi. —Jack Wennot

Movies in the Mountains

You can get great Greek food seven days a week at The Balkan Restaurant (p 84). But Greek Night with belly dancing and plate smashing is only Tues and Thurs from 8:30 pm. —Jack Wennot

Indoor Golf and Glow Bowling Renovations at The Bowling & Entertainment Centre in The Fairmont Banff Springs (p 37) include a new pool table and HD golf simulator. Guests ‘play’ on 20 championship courses like Pebble Beach and the Banff Springs’ own Stanley Thompson 18. Golf pros are even available for lessons! Traditional and neon backlight glow bowling (and drink specials) remain. —Kirsten Varsek 36

where.ca // banff, canmore, kananaskis, lake louise

PhoToS: CheeRS, BANFF LAke LouISe TouRISM/PAuL ZIZkA

Smashing Time

Film (p 37) enthusiasts can pick from: • First Run: Banff’s Lux Cinema is the only Bow Valley theatre to screen new releases; some in 3D. • Free: Canmore’s Public Library has Movie Nights on Wednesday at 7:30 pm (donations accepted). • Festival: The Banff Centre offers occasional Banff Mountain Film Festival screenings plus their Reel Time Film Series shows Toronto International Film Festival flicks. • Indie: Canmore Movies hosts art house films some Wednesdays and Thursdays in Solara’s Aurora Theatre. —Lisa Stephens

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore•kananaskis entertainment

Maps noted are on pages 122-127. BOWLINg & MOVIES . . . . . . . . . . .37 CASINO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 DANCE/OPERA/THEATRE. . . . . . .37 DINNER EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 DISCuSSIONS/SPEAkERS . . . . . . .37 EVENTS & FESTIVALS . . . . . . . . . . .37 EVENTS - SkI AREAS . . . . . . . . . . . 38 MuSIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 NIgHTLIFE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

BOWLING & MOvIes BANFF CENTRE FILM SCREENINg Feb 15, Mar 15, Apr 26 Banff Mountain Film Festival Screenings Films from the 2013 Festival; 7:30 pm, $12. St Julien Rd. Tickets 403-762-6301. Map 3, 16J BowLINg CENTRE 5-pin lanes, darts, games room with simulated golf (p 51), pool table, internet café. MonThurs 3-10 pm, lane $40/hr; glow bowl Fri 7 pm-close and Sat 1-7 pm, lane $55/hr. Sun noon-10 pm, lane $42/hr. Shoe rentals. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-6892. Map 3, 20L CANMoRE LIBRARY MoVIE NIgHTS Wed to Mar, 7:30 pm, donation. Shows online. Elevation Place, 700 Railway Ave, 403-678-2468. Map 4, 9I CANMoRE MoVIE THEATRE Indie/ art house films some Wed/Thurs 7 and 9 pm, $9. Solara Resort, 187 kananaskis Wy; canmoremovies.ca. Map 4, 11K LUX CINEMA First-run movies, 4-screens, 403-762-8595 24-hr info. Events: Dec 2, Jan 6, Feb 3, Mar 3, Apr 7 Reel Time Toronto International Film Festival shows, 7 pm, $12, 403-7626301. Banff: 229 Bear St. Map 3, 13N

CasINO

PHOTO: HOLLY COLE

SToNEY NAkodA RESoRT & CASINo Vegas-style games including tables and slots. Smoking and non-smoking areas. gaming floor liquor service. Off-track betting. uFC nights. golf simulator (p 51) Dining room/buffet, pub and shop. Occasional live music. Free Banff/Canmore shuttle Fri-Sat (p 58). Hwy 1 at Hwy 40, 15 min E of Canmore, 1-888-862-5632. Map 1, 8I

Music to Your Ears Sweet sounds at The Banff Centre (p 38) please all: • Singer/songwriters: Royal Wood plays his classic Canadian pop Jan 18. Josh Ritter performs his distinctive Americana style of narrative lyrics Jan 30. • Choral: Chamber choir Elmer Iseler Singers joins the Bow Valley Chorus for a night of song Feb 11. • World Music: Bearfoot Divas, South Pacific indigenous women, showcase soaring harmonies Feb 12. • Classical: Friday Evenings at the Rolston include pianist Ronan O’Hora Feb 14; violinist Yehonatan Berick Feb 21. • Opera: Iestyn Davies sings countertenor Apr 5. • Cape Breton Roots: Jimmy Rankin, from Nova Scotia’s famed Rankin family, performs Apr 8. • Jazz: Holly Cole’s (shown) rich and warm vocals raise funds for Banff’s hospital Apr 19. —Lisa Stephens Cohen songs, The Doorway, works by Banff Centre alumni/Brian MacDonald, 7:30 pm, $20, family 4-pack $40. Feb 22 Helen Lawrence Preview Presentation Noir cinema on Vancouver vice; 7:30 pm, free. Mar 22 Sheldon Casavant Magic; crafts and pizza; 4 pm, $13, family 4-pack $40. St Julien Rd. Tickets 403-762-6301. Map 3, 16J SATURdAY NIgHTS oN MAIN AT THE CARTER-RYAN Shows include Bridget Ryan cabarets; 7:30 pm, $20. Schedule carter-ryan.com. Canmore: 705 Main St, 403-621-1000. Map 4, 20E

DINNer eveNTs

DaNCe/Opera/TheaTre

CoRNERSToNE THEATRE & RESTAURANT From Apr 25: Oh Canada Eh? award-winning dinner musical celebrates Canada. Canmore: 125 kananaskis Wy, 403-609-0004. Map 4, 10K

THE BANFF CENTRE VISITINg ARTISTS SERIES Dec 7 Stuart McLean: A Vinyl Café Christmas Stories and music; 7:30 pm, $55. Jan 19 Bruce McCulloch in Young Drunk Punk From punk to father (adult content); 7:30 pm, $20. Jan 25 Royal Winnipeg Ballet Leonard

gREEk NIgHT Banff’s only dinner show. Belly dancing, Zorba’s dance, ouzo drinking and plate smashing Tues and Thurs from 8:30 pm. The Balkan Restaurant, 120 Banff Ave, 403-7623454. Map 3, 16O

ToRCHLIgHT dINNER & SkI Dec 25 and 31, Feb 14, Mar 14 Lake Louise Ski Area après ski. Drinks/appies midmountain; torch-lit ski to buffet dinner, band and dancing. $69, -13 $59; discounted non-skier rates. Town shuttle available. More Fri dates possible. Reserve 403-522-3555. Map 2, 21E

DIsCussIONs/speaKers THE BANFF CENTRE LEAdERS ANd LITERARY SpEAkERS ANd SpokEN woRd Jan 18 Legendary Leaders: Spike Lee with Ian Brown; 7:30 pm, $35. Jan 19 Avalanche Awareness Night; 7:30 pm, free. Feb 11, 18 Literary In(ter)ventions; 8 pm, free. Apr 4 Spoken Word: Griots of All Time; 8 pm, free. Apr 11 Spoken Word: Viva Voce!; 8 pm, free. St Julien Rd, 403-762-6301. Map 3, 16J

eveNTs & FesTIvaLs ALBERTA wINTER gAMES Feb 6-9 2500 age 11-17 athletes compete in 22 sports. Banff/Canmore: 403-678-2002. BANFF SNow dAYS Jan 10-Feb 9 Celebrates winter. Mountain adventure weekend, street hockey tourney, winter 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore• Louise•Canmore•kananaskis entertainment The Arkells. 200 Block of Banff Ave, info 403-762-8421. Map 2, 14O CANMoRE wINTER CARNIVAL Jan 31-Feb 23 Snow Tracks on Main St, giant TV screen broadcasting the Olympics at Civic Centre Plaza, snow sculpting, ice carving, Kid n’ Mutt races, Mayor’s Sled Dog Challenge and more. Info: 403-678-1295. Map 4

Top Ski Area Shindigs • Duct tape limits are tested during the Jan 25 Cardboard Sled Derby at Mt Norquay. Sleds defy physics and stay in one piece or crash spectacularly. • May 2-3 Ruckus in the Rockies at Lake Louise ends the season. Monster Energy athletes compete in a board jam while mortals watch from the patio with live music. Everyone carouses at the after-party. • Watching outrageously clad skiers fail to jump the pool of icy water marks the end of winter at Sunshine’s May 19 Slush Cup. Find who receives Best Belly Flop honours. —kristen V ice climbing festival, Lake Louise Ice Magic Festival. Banff and Lake Louise, info 403-762-8421. Map 2 and 3 BLITz SNowSHoE FUN RUN & wALk Mar 8 5 km/10 km courses. The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, info 403-762-8421. Map 2, 14C CANAdIAN oLYMpIC TEAM BLoCk pARTY Jan 11 Send off for Olympians going to Sochi (2-5:30 pm). george Stroumboulopoulos hosts. Juno Award winning bands The Sheepdogs and 38

CHRISTMAS IN CANMoRE To Jan 1 Best-Lit Block competition, Xmas village and gingerbread house, scavenger hunt, cooking classes, Hi Jinx colouring contest, festival of trees, moonlight madness, IPC Canmore Nordic World Cup, Santa fun run, skate with Santa. Info: 403-678-1295. Map 4 ICE MAgIC FESTIVAL Jan 17-26 Watch International Ice Carving Competition sculptures created at Chateau Lake Louise, Jan 17-19. Demos lakeside and at ski hill. One Carver, One Hour, One Block speed event at Lake Louise Inn, Jan 18. Little Chippers Weekend, Jan 25-26, family fun events, skating parties with Ice Queen and carving demos. Info: 403-762-8421. Map 2 LAkE LoUISE poNd HoCkEY CLASSIC Feb 21-23 Outdoor shinny tourney. The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, info 403-522-1638. Map 2, 14C MEC ICE CLIMBINg FESTIVAL Jan 31-Feb 2 Banff Avenue ice wall, demos, clinics, Sat mixer with speakers and silent auction, ice gear and competitions. Info: 403-762-8421. Map 3 NEw YEAR’S EVE Dec 31 Torchlight Parade Mt Norquay seen from Banff, 7 pm. Fairmont Banff Springs New Year Gala ($295, 13-17 $149), 403762-6860. Canmore Party on the Pond bonfire, skating, music and fireworks, 6 pm-mid, info 403-678-1295. RoCkY MoUNTAIN wINE & Food FESTIVAL May 23-24 grand Tasting Hall and events. Local cuisine, wine, spirits and beer. Banff: 1-866-228-3555. SpRINgSTART FESTIVAL Apr 4-20 Banff National Park history, culture and the arts. Banff and Lake Louise. Info: 403-762-8421. Map 2 and 3 wINTERSTART FESTIVAL Nov 29Dec 22 Lake Louise World Cup races (see Ski Events). Banff Ave Square events, Christmas in the Rockies, Santa Claus Parade of Lights. Banff/Lake Louise. Info: 403-762-8421. Map 2 and 3

where.ca // banff, canmore, kananaskis, lake louise

eveNTs — sKI areas CANMoRE NoRdIC CENTRE Dec 9-17 IPC Nordic Skiing Alberta World Cup. Dec 19-21 Biathlon Canada Olympic Trials. Jan 4-5 Calforex Cup Biathlon. Jan 9-12 Cross Country Canada Olympic Trials. Jan 19 World Snow Day. Feb 1-2 Alberta Cadet Biathlon Championships. Feb 6-9 Alberta Winter Games. Mar 16 Rocky Mountain Ski Challenge. Mar 29 Canmore Winter Meltdown Triathlon. Apr 5-6 Canmore Ski Fest 6-, 12- or 24-hr ski marathon plus kids race. 403-678-2400. Map 4, 9A kANANASkIS SkI MARATHoN Feb 22 Confirm. X-c ski loppet with cookies. 1/3/5 km kids; 15 km youth; 15/24/42 km adults. Peter Lougheed Pk, Hwy 40, cookierace.com. Map 1, 8H SkI AREA EVENTS Lake Louise Nov 30-Dec 1/Dec 6-8 Men’s and Women’s World Cup Downhill; Dec 15 Heavy Metal Rail Jam; Dec 20-21 Snowboard Cross World Cup; Jan 18-19 Avalanche Awareness Days; Feb 8/Mar 22 Krowd Party DJs; Mar 1 Powder 8 Championships; Mar 7-9/Mar 14-16 Big Mountain Challenge; Apr 5-6/12-13/19-20/2627 Mountain Takeover Spring parties; Apr 12 Cardboard Box Downhill Derby and Stampede; May 2-3 Ruckus in the Rockies; May 3 Bikinis for Breast Cancer. 403-522-3555 Map 2, 21E. Mt Norquay Jan 8/Feb 5/Mar 5/Apr 2 Alberta Toonie Days; Jan 11 Ski Rail Jam; Jan 25 Cardboard Sled Derby; Feb 1 Mountain Smoker and Snowboard Rail Jam; Feb 14 Lifts of Love; Mar 29 Bruno Engler Ski Race. Apr 5 80’s Day. 403762-4421 Map 3, 2C. Nakiska Dec 7 Audi FIS Ski Cross World Cup. 403-591-7777 Map 1, 8I. Sunshine Village May 18 Bikinis & Boardshorts for Breast Cancer; May 19 Slush Cup Party with icy pond jump. 403-762-6500 Map 1, 10A.

MusIC THE BANFF CENTRE MUSIC & SoUNd wINTER CoNCERT SERIES Fridays Jan 10-Mar 14 Friday at the Rolston Classical concerts (uri Caine jazz pianist Jan 17; Afiara String Quartet Jan 24; soprano Lucy Shelton Jan 31; flautist Ransom Wilson Feb 7; pianist Ronan O'Hora Feb 14; violinist Yehonatan Berick Feb 21; kruger Brothers Mar 7. St Julien Rd, tickets 403-762-6301. Map 3, 16J THE BANFF CENTRE VISITINg ARTISTS SERIES 7:30 pm unless noted: Dec 7 Fred Penner & Bow Valley Chorus; 2 pm, $10. Jan 18 Royal Wood Canadian singer-songwriter; 9:30 pm, $20. Jan 30

PHOTO: LAkE LOuISE BIg AIR, CHRIS MOSELEY

Josh Ritter American singer-songwriter; $30. Feb 11 Elmer Iseler Singers with the Bow Valley Chorus; $20. Feb 12 Barefoot Divas Indigenous singer-songwriters; $20. Apr 5 Iestyn Davies Countertenor; $20. Apr 8 Jimmy Rankin Cape Breton roots/pop; $20. Apr 19 Holly Cole Jazz vocalist with trio; $35. St Julien Rd, tickets 403-762-6301. Map 3, 16J

NIGhTLIFe Banff: AURoRA Spirited nightclub with DJs, dancing and conversation-friendly lounge. Wed-Sun 9 pm-2 am. 110 Banff Ave, 403-760-5300. Map 3, 17P BANFF AVE BREwINg Co. Brewer’s Pub with big screens and pool. Beer made on-site, free tours. Beer Club talks and tastings (Mon 8 pm; drop-in $10). upstairs, Clock Tower Mall, 110 Banff Ave, 403-762-1003. Map 3, 17P BRUNo’S Mon trivia 9 pm. Tues jug specials and half price wings. Thurs karaoke. Fri open mic from 10 pm. Sun local musicians. TVs for sports. 304 Caribou St, 403-762-8115. Map 3, 15P dANCINg SASqUATCH Cabin theme bar with mine shaft entrance and dance floor wall sasquatch. DJs nightly. Events. 9 pm-2 am. 120 Banff Ave, 403-762-4002. Map 3, 16O ELk & oARSMAN Big-screen sports, fireplace, food specials. Drink specials: Mon-Thurs beer, Fri cocktails/ happy hr 4-7 pm, Sat martinis/pints, Sun Caesars/jugs/vodka bombs. Live music Sat-Sun and occasionally other nights from 10 pm. upstairs, 119 Banff Ave, 403-762-4616. Map 3, 16O THE FAIRMoNT BANFF SpRINgS Rundle Lounge: great view, baronial decor and blues guitarist/singer FriSat 9 pm. Waldhaus Pub: house in the forest; free pool, sports on huge HD, wing Wed. Ramsay Lounge: cocktails, single malt scotches, port. 405 Spray Ave, 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L Hoodoo LoUNgE Nightclub with DJs. Mon/Tues hip hop/funk. Thurs Jagerbombs. Fri/Sat dance party. Closed Wed/Sun. 137 Banff Ave (off Caribou), 403-760-8636. Map 3, 15O JUNIpER BISTRo LoUNgE View, fireplace, half price flatbreads 4:30 pm-6:30 pm. Drink specials. Closed Mon/Tues. Off Mt Norquay Rd across Hwy 1, 403-762-2281. Map 3, 11A

THE LIk LoUNgE Plasmas, fireplace, happy hr Mon-Fri, 4-7 pm. Mon $17 burger and beer. Tues half price wine. Wed $19 Prime sirloin steak. Thurs $15 mussels and beer. 221 Bear St, 403-762-2467. Map 3, 14N MELISSA’S UpSTAIRS BAR Local character. Darts, pool, pinball, 11 TVs (four 60" screens); wireless tabletop speakers for your game. Happy hour 4-7 pm. All day/night $2.75 highballs; $3.75 PBR super cans; $4.25 Old Milwaukee pints. good food from Melissa’s Restaurant kitchen. 218 Lynx St, 403-762-5776. Map 3, 15N THE pUMp & TAp TAVERN Big screen sports. Happy hr noon-6 pm. Mon acoustic jam. Tues pool tourney 8 pm. Buck Hunter, pool, foosball, table hockey, pinball, VLTs. Bsm’t, Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403760-6610. Map 3, 14O RIMRoCk RESoRT HoTEL Divas Martini Lounge: 30s era/movie actress decor; unique cocktails. Larkspur Lobby Lounge: elegant decor; incredible view. 300 Mountain Ave, 403-762-3356. Map 3, 21H THE RoSE & CRowN Live top 40, blues, reggae, pop from 10:30 pm Tue-Sat. Maritime Mon: guitarist/ singer songbook requests. Sun: host band with guests. games room: pool and foosball. upstairs, 202 Banff Ave, 403-762-2121. Map 3, 15O ST JAMES’S gATE oLdE IRISH pUB Authentic Dublin decor; 24 beer taps; 30+ scotches; 6 Irish whiskeys. Happy hr Mon-Fri 3-6 pm include $4-$6 pints. Bands Fri-Sat from 9:30 pm; often Celtic or classic rock. Thurs Irish Night: $9 Irish fare, live music. 2 for 1 appies Mon-Wed 3-6 pm. Sun carved roast dinner $15. 207 Wolf St, 403-762-9355. Map 3, 13O ToMMY’S Live music Mon/open mic Wed from 10 pm. Molson bottles and highballs $3.25 Sun-Thurs. Steak sandwich $9. 120 Banff Ave, 403-762-8888. Map 3, 16O

Get the Ball Rolling New HD Golf Simulator Virtual golf with 20 championship courses. Golf lessons by reservation. Five-Pin Bowling Glow bowling Fri night & Sat afternoon Licensed Lounge & New Pool Table Great food. We do parties.

403-762-6892 fairmont.com/banffsprings

Most Sports in Banff

60 inch plasmas • 11 TVs Wireless speakers at your table

Everyday Drink Specials

Highballs $2.75 • King Cans $3.75

Unbeatable Food Specials Breakfast available to 4 pm Open Mic Tues • Bands Thurs Pool table • Darts • Pinball Open Daily 11:30 am –1 am Meet the Locals at Banff’s Favourite Bar

Upstairs Bar

Downtown, 218 Lynx Street Two blocks from Banff Ave 403-762-5776

wILd BILL’S LEgENdARY SALooN Lively saloon; western decor, smokehouse cuisine. Downtown Banff’s premier entertainment venue: top bands (Fri, Sat, most Thurs), occasional comedy. Tues karaoke. Tues/Thurs/Sun mechanical bull. upstairs, 201 Banff Ave, 403-762-0333. Map 3, 15O Continued on page 58 winter 2013/14 //

where.ca

Louise Y Banff•Lake CanMore•kananaskis

hot MuseuMs

World Premiere Exhibit of Photography Every year since 1994, Scotia Waterous has released a compelling book of modern black and white images detailing the work of a single photographer from a specific region of the world (the initial book was on the Canadian Rockies). This year’s book, the 20th, includes two photos from each of the 19 previous books. The Whyte Museum’s (p 41) exhibition The Photographers of Scotia Waterous displays all the images from the 20th book plus the photographers’ recent works. —Lisa Stephens

Canada House Gallery (p 42) was established in 1974 by Peter and Marika McCaffrey to showcase Canadian perspectives, culture and talent during a time when most Banff shops sold ‘made in Taiwan’ souvenirs. Their daughter Barbara Pelham and her husband Eric bought the gallery in 2000 and injected fresh ideas and drive. “It’s our mandate to continue their dream,” notes Barbara. Celebrate the gallery’s 40 years by attending their 2014 anniversary exhibits and chatting with their longstanding staff. —Lisa Stephens

Info Art Signs outside the Banff Visitor Centre (p 57) showcase painted wood inlays by Fraser McGurk that portray wildlife, exploration, the railway and landscapes. “Each line is hand cut with a jig saw, and each piece is hand painted,” notes Fraser. Vintage photographs from Whyte Museum (p 41) archives provided him inspiration. —Kate Deglow

New Prominence for Canmore's CAG Gallery Artist-run Canmore Art Guild Gallery’s (p 44) new space at Elevation Place (p 63) boasts a ‘can’t miss it’ location with environmental lighting and moveable partitions. Its glass walls at front are adorned with Artists in the Landscape (shown) by Sunny Raven’s (p 44) Meg Nicks. CAG remains committed to enriching the community’s cultural life. —Lisa Stephens 40

where.ca // banff, canmore, kananaskis, lake louise

PHoToS: “BoyS PLAyING HoCKEy” 1985, LouISE ABBoTT; CoyoTE oIL oN CANVAS, LES THoMAS

40 Years of Canadian Art

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore museums & gaLLeries

Public MuseuMs Banff: Banff Park MuseuM national Historic site Western Canada’s oldest natural history museum reopens mid May. admire its rustic yet elegant 1903 Victorian architecture that is called 'railway pagoda'. 91 Banff ave, 403-762-1558. Map 3, 18O Buffalo nations luxton MuseuM in a log ‘fortress’ beside the Bow River is alberta’s oldest museum. Colourful life-size dioramas depict the traditional life and ceremonies of late 1800s plains indians. Browse the shop with native crafts and jewellery. Free hot drinks. $10, sen $9, 7-17 $4, -7 free, group rates. to apr, 11 am-5 pm. From May, 10 am-7 pm. 1 Birch ave, 403-762-2388. Map 3, 20N

photo: CasCade shops' Canadian ski MuseuM West

canadian ski MuseuM West Banff’s ski heritage and Canada’s great skiers. displays: swiss mountain guides, gear evolution, backcountry lodges, ski areas and local olympic skier memorabilia. 9 am-9 pm. Free. throughout Cascade shops, 317 Banff ave, 403-762-8484. Map 3, 13O cave & Basin national Historic site place where railway workers discovered thermal springs that led the creation of Banff national park, Canada’s first, in 1885. Recent $13.8M renewal: interpretive media exhibits on the heritage of the protected waters; rock tunnel to inside the cave and basin; giant four-screen hd video on Canada’s national parks, historic sites and marine conservation areas. Story Hall images, artifacts and photo booth. Galletly Building café, theatre and events space. Replica 1887 bathhouse and bathing pavilion. Internment Exhibit Building detention of WWi 'enemy aliens' displays. Welcome Centre gift shop. interpretive boardwalk and trails (free) to the cave vent, hillside springs, unique plants, and pools with fish and the Banff springs snail (found only here). to mid May Wed-sun noon-4 pm; longer hours after. $3.90, sen $3.40, yth $1.90, family $9.80. Exposure Exhibit: Feb-Mar Summits & Starlight: The Canadian Rockies at Night by Paul Zizka images of starry skies, northern lights and mountain silhouettes; award winning film Mountain in Motion featuring Zizka's time-lapse photography. 311 Cave ave, 403-762-1566. Map 3, 19B Heritage Hall established in 1888, the Fairmont Banff springs

(often called ‘the castle’ or ‘the springs’) prings’) is an icon of Banff and a gracious representation of an earlier age. ‘Museum within a museum’ exhibits chronicle the hotel’s role in the history and culture of the mountain parks. Free. daily to 10 pm. Hotel Tour: Join a historian and learn about Banff and the hotel; thurs-sat at 3 pm (confirm); $15. Mezzanine, the he Fairmont Banff springs, 403-762-2211. Map 3, 20L Walter PHilliPs gallery Canadian and international exhibits explore contemporary culture. Wed-sun un 12:30 pm-5 pm (to 8 pm thurs). donations. onations. Exhibits: To Jan 19 To Become Whole (The Whole Issue) inquiry into the short-lived countercultural resource, “Canadian Whole earth almanac”. Jan 18-Mar 9 Lost Illusions/Illusions Perdue installation by artist sarah pierce. Glyde hall, the Banff Centre, st Julien Rd, 403-762-6281. Map 3, 16J WHyte MuseuM of tHe canadian rockies art, culture and the history of the Canadian Rockies is interpreted in four galleries, an archives and library, heritage homes, shops and guided tours. Free Museo Packs have activities for kids 6-12. the museum was founded in 1968 by artists, philanthropists and world travellers peter and Catharine Whyte. sept 16-June 14, 10 am-5 pm, and June 15-sept 15, 9:30 am-6 pm. admission by donation. Exhibits: Ongoing Gateway to the Rockies events and people who shaped the culture of these mountains; artifacts, art, photos, recordings and documents. interactive exhibits include a helicopter, Brewster touring car and railway snowshed. To Jan 26 Pinnacle Perspectives: Celebrating the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides' 50th Anniversary Careers of acclaimed mountain guides plus photos/videos by current guides. To Jan 26 Winter in Canada Landscape paintings by historic Canadian artists Cornelius krieghoff, Maurice Cullen, Marc-aurèle de Foy suzor-Coté, W.L. stevenson, Willian kurelek and david Milne, plus contemporary artists. To Jan 26 Jewels: from The Whyte Museum Collections newly acquired and rarely viewed treasures; works by emily Carr and a prized piece of inuit art. Feb 1-Mar 30 Photographers of Scotia Waterous images from past books plus recent works by same photographers; reception Feb 1, 7 pm (see 'World premiere photography' hot tip p 40). Feb 1-Mar 30 Sarah Fuller: My Banff Resident tells of living in Banff through

Skiing Back in Time enhance nhance your skiing i.Q. .Q. at these indoor venues: • the Canadian Museum of nordic skiing (p 42) has 1940s waxes, skis and boots, a 10-ft long 100-year old Finnish ski and Canmore ‘88 olympic Winter Games swag. • Canadian ski Museum West (left) displays in Cascade shops (p 70) let you peruse stores while discovering tidbits about the evolution of skiing in Banff. • the Whyte Museum’s (left) Gateway to the Rockies tells how Mount norquay became Banff’s first ‘modern’ ski area. there's a ‘backcountry’ lodge and a heli-skiing chopper that ‘flies’ from the wall. —kirsten V. photos; reception Feb 1, 7 pm. Feb 1-Mar 30 Through the Lens Local student photography; results of field trips and workshops; reception Feb 1, 7 pm. Guided Heritage Homes Tours 1931 Whyte and 1907 Moore homes, sat/ sun 11:30 am and 1:30 pm; 30 min; free. Luxton Home norman and Georgina’s stoney nation ties and a century of tastes; by appt; 40 min; $8. Events: Dec 7 A Whyte Christmas Carols, crafts, santa (1-4 pm; free). Jan 21 Jon Whyte Spelling Bee & Trivia Challenge (7 pm; free). Jan 23 Pinnacle WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore museums & gaLLeries

Perspectives: A Conversation stories by aCMG guides Barry Blanchard, Will Gadd and Lloyd Gallagher (7 pm). Art Shows & Sales: To Jan 14 Small Treasures art with winter themes. Jan 18-Mar 18 Watermedia Rockies beauty by local artists; reception Jan 18, 1-4 pm. 111 Bear st, 403-762-2291. Map 3, 16N

canmore: canadian MuseuM of nordic skiing Free. displays of gear (1940s to present) and local olympic medallist photos; lobby of tourism Canmore (9 am-5 pm), 907 7 ave, 403-5223833, Map 4, 3E. 1988 olympic Winter Games memorabilia; Canmore nordic Centre (8:30 am-5:30 pm), 403-678-2400. Map 4, 9B canMore MuseuM & geoscience centre Canmore’s railway and coal mining history: artifacts, photos and videos. Geoscience Centre has displays and videos on the formation of the Rockies, Rat’s nest Cave, the devonian reef, fossils and Canmore coal. Gift shop with books, rocks, fossils, educational toys, archival reproductions and art. Grant Mossop

Canmore Museum Archives (91.8.39)

History Never Sleeps

Research Library by appt. to May: Mon-Fri noon-5 pm, sat-sun/hol 11 am-5 pm; longer hrs after. $5, sen/ch $3, -7 free, family 2 adults, 2 kids $10. Exhibits: Ongoing Flip Up: Then & Now historical Canmore photos paired with Rob alexander ‘re-photos’ 100 years later; some scenes are unchanged while others are hardly recognizable. Jan 29-Feb 26 Our Wilderness is Wisdom First nations artists examine their lives and their land; the paintings tell stories of the past, present and future. events online. Civic Centre, 902B 7 ave, 403-678-2462. Map 4, 19C nortHWest Mounted Police Barracks Provincial Historic site this 1893 building by policeman’s Creek is the oldest nWMp site in Western Canada still at its original location. police that lived here until 1929 served the growing mining town and prevented illegal liquor transport on the railway. the restored mud-chinked log barracks has historic furnishings, heritage garden and gift shop. there’s a self-guided tour and activity pack for kids. sept-May: Fri-Mon 1-4 pm. May-sept: Montues 1-4 pm, Wed-sun 10 am-5 pm. hours subject to volunteer availability. admission by donation. Events (updated online): Dec 14 Christmas 10 am-3 pm. Jan 5 Florence and Ray Sliney: "Avilion: A Classic Sailing Voyage Around the World" 3 pm. Feb 15 Family Day with Canmore Community Cookbook launch 10 am-3 pm. Feb 20 Emerson Sandford: "Whiteman's Gap: The Route to White Man Pass" 7 pm. Feb TBC Milk Jug Curling. Mar TBC Stephen Lagault: "The End of the Line" and "The Third Riel Conspiracy" 7 pm. Apr 19 Easter 10 am-3 pm. Apr 24 David Peyto: "Bill Peyto: A Banff Pioneer, Guide, Soldier & Park Warden" 7 pm. May 3 Mother's Day Crafts. 609 Main st, 403-678-1955/2462. Map 4, 20F

lake louise: lake louise visitor centre displays on the Rockies’ natural and human history. to apr 30, thurs-sun 9 am-4:30 pm; longer hrs after. samson Mall, 403-522-3833. Map 2, 20M

coMMercial Galleries Banff:

Canmore Museum & Geoscience Centre

Open daily • Civic Ctr, 902B - 7 Ave 403-678-2462 • www.cmags.org 42

aBout canada Canadian paintings, limited edition prints and photos. native stone, antler and bone sculptures. Carvings, ceramics, glass and raku. Local photos. Clothing by Graham howard designs. 105 Banff ave, 403-760-2996. Map 3, 17O

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

all in tHe Wild gallery Jason Leo Bantle wildlife images include polar and grizzly bears, arctic fox and wolves. photographs (framed, matted or on canvas), books, calendars, art cards, t-shirt and puzzles. 105 Banff ave, 403-760-3141. Map 3, 17O canada House gallery iconic Banff art gallery (celebrating 40 years, p 40). Friendly, well informed gallerists present original paintings and sculptures by leading Canadian artists. the diversity of art and fresh vibe make this a popular destination for regulars and first-time visitors. Website (updated daily) shows all works and upcoming exhibits. Worldwide shipping. Exhibits (open sat; artist reception usually 1-3 pm): Jan 18-28 Snow Days Beauty of winter; sheila kernan, Robert Roy, k. neil swanson, peter Wyse. Feb 22-Mar 4 Grant Leier: Animal Farm paintings of animals; stunning use of light and bold colour. Mar 29-Apr 8 Mike Svob: New Work 30 acrylics; Rockies, west coast and europe. Apr 5 Stephen Hutchings: Welcome to the Gallery Large charcoal drawings augmented with oil. Apr 12-22 Jennifer Annesley & Dieter Schlatter annesley's monochromatic charcoal and gouache vistas; schlatter's b&w landscape photos are juxtaposed with edgy painting. Apr 19 Sheila Kernan: Painting Demo & Talk air brush, stencil and brush work. May 3-13 Bev Rodin: New Work acrylics with unusual lighting, abstraction and colour. May 23 40th Anniversary Party Join friends and artists (1-4 pm). June 7-17 Steven Nederveen: New Work Magic realism employs photography and painting. 201 Bear st, 403-762-3757. Map 3, 15N gallery at tHe sPrings Mountain landscapes and more by local artists. Limited editions and originals by Canadian folk artist Linda evans. native crafts, bronzes and collectible bears. Convention Ctr, Fairmont Banff springs, 403-762-8736. Map 3, 20L gingko and ink atelier eclectic paper store. handmade journals and locally made cards. Workshops. Exposure exhibit: Feb-Mar Deeper Perspective by Victoria Baker Layered, cropped and faded photos; art inspired by national park living. harmony Ln, 111 Banff ave, 403-762-3855. Map 3, 16O tHe Mountain art gallery By Banff PHotograPHy Beautiful mountain photography. Landscapes and wildlife—framed, unframed and

as canvas prints. Glass, pottery and jewellery. Moderate pricing. Worldwide shipping. 101 Banff Ave, 403762-3562 ext 28. Map 3, 17O Mountain Galleries at The Fairmont—Banff Springs Canadian fine art since 1992. Owner/ curator/artist Wendy Wacko conveys a unique perspective through the collection of paintings from abstract impressionism to magic realism with a focus on wilderness landscapes. Museum quality glass, clay, stone and bronze sculptures. Inuit prints and carvings. Guaranteed worldwide shipping. Wild & Sacred Places is their ongoing theme. Fairmont Banff Springs, 405 Spray Ave, in the main building (beside the wine boutique), 403-760-2382. Map 3, 20L

The Artists of Elk Run “Creative edge of Canmore,” ten artist studios (call to confirm hours): Of Cabbages and Kings Pottery, 129 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-1922; Tony Bloom Studios metal sculptures, 129 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-609-7087; Rudi Peet Goldsmith, 10B, 102 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-6131; Peig Abbott Sculpture stone carvings, 10A, 102 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-830-2820; Rayne Maker Pottery, 131 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-679-1265; Fireweed

Glass Studio, 8, 111 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-609-9333; Sunny Raven Gallery picture framing, original art and photography, 156, 105 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-6113; Barb Fyvie Studio paintings, 3rd floor, 105 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-688-0662; Linda Cote Studio printmaking, 3rd fl, 105 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-6787797; Elizabeth Wiltzen Studio original oils/watercolour prints, 132, 105 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-763-9035. Elk Run Industrial Park. Map 4, 13P

Perfect Image Studio Original tattoo inspired wall art. Skateboard decks. Body piercing jewellery. 226 Bear St, 403-762-8882. Map 3, 14N The Quest Canadian art and crafts since 1958. First Nations art, Inuit sculptures, antler carvings, paintings, jewellery, and international fossils and minerals. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-4422. Map 3, 17O Whyte Museum Shop Works by local artists: paintings, bronze and clay sculptures, pottery and photography. Wildlife and mountain themes predominate. Historic Canadian Rockies photos from the archives. Books, stationery, cards and posters. Locally handcrafted jewellery includes heritage trading beads. Changing Art Shows & Sales. Browse online. 111 Bear St, 403-762-2291 ext 340. Map 3, 16N Willock & Sax Gallery Historic and contemporary western Canadian artists. Paintings, sculptures, drawings, block prints, photography and fine art ceramics. Exhibits (updated online; receptions first Sat noon-2 pm): Jan 11-25 Cape Dorset: The New Generation Contemporary Arctic drawings and sculptures. Feb 1-28 E. Ross Bradley: Studies in Motion Photos study movement. May 1-31 May Cup Group show on cups; functional or not. 210 Bear St, 403-762-2214. Map 3, 14N

Canmore: All In The Wild Gallery (See their Banff gallery listing on the previous page). 712A Main St, 403609-3141. Map 4, 20B WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore museums & gaLLeries

arty farty Libby's folksy botanicals, wildlife, landscapes. Custom pet portraits. Jewellery and ceramics. 702 Main st, 403-678-6655. Map 4, 20E tHe avens gallery exceptional western Canadian art since 1986; with new owners. Fresh paintings by david Zimmerman, Zelda nelson, tin Yan and tom hjorleifson. World class photography, bronze and glass. staff partner clients with the right works. artists in attendance events posted

online. Exhibits: Jan 18-19 En Plein Air Collective Zelda nelson, doug swinton, Michelle Grant. Feb 15 East Meets West: The Rocky Mountain Divide denise Lemaster and andrew kiss oils. Apr 19 Holly McWilliams - Symbiosis: Demonstration & New Works Colourful acrylics. May 17-19 Sandra Chapman - The Forest At Large: Demonstration & New Works oil landscapes and trees. June 6-7 Jerry Markham: Adventures in Painting Broad brushstrokes reflect artist lives. 709 Main st, 403-678-4471. Map 4, 20D

canMore art guild gallery CaG member works. Mon-thurs 11 am-8 pm; Fri-sun 11 am-5 pm. Exhibits (receptions first Fri 7-9 pm): To Jan 7 Small Gems Christmas art sale; 10% to charity. Jan 10-28 Group show. Jan 31-Feb 11 Exposure CaG photos. Feb 13-25 Exposure Guest b&w prints; reception Feb 15, noon-4 pm. Feb 28-Mar 18 Visions Art Quilt Show nature themes. Mar 21-Apr 1 Ralph Temple. Apr 4-22 and Apr 25-May 13 Group shows. May 16-June 3 tBa. elevation place, 700 Railway ave, 403-678-8920. Map 4, 19B carter-ryan gallery Bold carvings and paintings by aboriginal artist Jason Carter. Jason’s canvas representations of Who is Boo: The Curious Case of One Trickster Rabbit with the story by Bridget Ryan (book is for sale). theatre events on-site. 705 Main st, 403-621-1000. Map 4, 20E tHe edge gallery historical paintings and prints to contemporary abstracts. Custom framing. Exposure Exhibit: Feb 1-Mar 1 Minuets: Craig Richards and John Dean photos including abstracts focus on serene nature; reception Feb 1, 2-5 pm. 612 spring Creek dr, 403-675-8300. Map 4, 11

“Cows Talking About Peace” by Deryk Houston

Acrylic on canvas 18” x 24”

elevation gallery Figurative to abstract fine art. paintings, sculptures and custom designed jewellery. exhibits with artist receptions. 729 Main st, 403-609-3324. Map 4, 20D of caBBages & kings studio where katie Borrowman and dad John handmake beautiful functional pottery: mugs, teapots, jugs, salt/pepper rocks, dinner sets, sinks and tiles. sculptural/ one-of-a-kind pieces. Commissions. tues-sat 10 am-noon/1:30 pm-5:30 pm or by appt. 129 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-1922. Map 4, 13P

Under New Ownership Introducing Western Canadian Art Since 1986 104-709 Main Street, Canmore theavensgallery@telusplanet.net 403-678-4471 | theavensgallery.com Stay connected

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

sunny raven gallery Custom and preservation framing since 1983. ppFa certified; 2000+ frames. Mixed media art and B&W landscape photos include regional theme works by owners Meg nicks and paul Goutiere. art supplies/gifts. Vintage cameras and postcards. 156, 105 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-6113. Map 4, 13P virginia ann HeMingson gallery her vibrant watercolor, oil and gouache paintings. Folksy, everyday reflects of countryside, buildings and people. tues-sat 1-4 pm. 517 spring Creek dr, 403-678-1905. Map 4, 11I

Louise Y Banff•Lake Canmore•kananaskis

hot aCtivities

The Best Skate You Can Name

Charming Ride Where Calgary artist Veronica Cowan was “seeking romance” when she booked a private two-seat cutter sleigh ride (p 56) for her and her partner. She wasn’t disappointed! The single horse pulling their open sleigh through a hushed, snow-laden forest was like a scene from their own fairytale. “It was chilly out,” notes Veronica, but cuddling under the cozy buffalo robe kept them warm and added to the ambience. —Lisa Stephens

Un-Fear Factor Canmore Cave Tours (p 48) owner Adam Walker suggests you don’t be afraid of: • The deep: Folks from age 10 adventure into Grotto Mountain’s exotic Rat’s Nest Cave

Snowshoeing Paradise A vast, untouched and snowy landscape might make you itch to strap on snowshoes and mark your own trail. But this can be tricky if you are unsure where the ground ends and the not-completely-frozen creek begins! One way to guarantee pristine yet safe backcountry travel is to book a guided tour (p 50). —Lisa Stephens 46

where.ca // banff, canmore, kananaskis, lake louise

• The cold: The cave is 5°C/41°F year round, regardless of the weather outside • The dark: Adam recommends an evening tour when the hike to this Provincial Historic Resource is lit by stars (plus your headlamp) —Kirsten Varsek

phOTOS: SKATInG, FAIRMOnT ChATEAu LAKE LOuISE; SLEIGh RIdE, hOLIdAy On hORSEBACK; SnOwShOEInG, BAnFF LAKE LOuISE TOuRISM/pAuL ZIZKA

For an authentically Canadian experience, Chateau Mountain Sports’ (p 77) Anna Elkins suggests skating on our nation’s “most spectacular ice rink”: Lake Louise. Rent skates ($15; junior $10) for a leisurely pass around the sculpted ice castle, or a hockey stick ($8) to sample ‘Canada’s game’ against the Victoria Glacier backdrop. There are rinks and skate rentals (p 52) in Canmore, Banff and Kananaskis, too. —Kirsten Varsek

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore•Kananaskis ACTivities

Listings are for advertisers plus others worthy of your attention. Maps are on pages 122-127. Activity booking. . . . . . . . . . . . 47 All terrain Tours. . . . . . . . . . . 47 Backcountry Lodges . . . . . . . 47 Canyon Ice Walks. . . . . . . . . . . 47 Cave Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Climbing—Ice & Walls . . . . . . 48 X-C Ski & Snowshoe. . . . . . . . . 48 Dog Sled Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Golf—Indoor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Heli Tours & Skiing. . . . . . . . . . 52 Hockey Tours/Games. . . . . . . 52 Horseback Riding . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Ice Fishing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Ice Skating & Curling. . . . . . . 52 Photo Tours/Lessons. . . . . . . 54 Sightseeing lift. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Sightseeing Tours. . . . . . . . . . . 54 Ski Areas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Sleigh/Carriage rides. . . . . . . 56 Snowmobile Tours. . . . . . . . . . 56 Tobogganing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Zipline Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56

Conversing with the Dogs If only your children would listen as attentively and react as quickly as Snowy Owl (p 51) sled dogs. Commands include: • Hike Up: go • Haw: go left (Haw Over: move left) • Come Around Haw: turn left 180° • Gee: go right (Gee Over: move right) • Come Around Gee: turn right 180° • On By: go past a trail junction or other distraction • Easy: slow down (musher applies the brake) • Whoa: stop (musher continues to apply the brake) “The lead dogs that front the team listen the best,” says Snowy Owl’s Carlin Kimble. “They are the dogs with leadership qualities.” —Jack Wennot

For more listings and links scan this code with your smartphone or key in www.where.ca/canadianrockies

photo: Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours

Activity Booking Banff Adventures Flames hockey, sightseeing, scenic flights, ski passes/lessons/rentals, ice walks, dog sledding, snowshoeing, sleigh ride, ice fishing, snowmobiling, ice climbing and heli-skiing. Many value packages including Winter Activity Pass: gondola, hot springs and sleigh ride $65, kids 6-12 $45. Lodging. Airport transfers. Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St., 403-762-4554. Map 3, 14N Discover Banff Tours Icewalks, dog sledding, snowmobiling, sightseeing, wildlife safaris, gps self-guided driving tours, snowshoeing, heli-skiing, Powder Express to Kicking Horse Resort, sleigh rides and Big 3 ski lessons. Value-priced combos. Visitor information. Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403-760-5007. Map 3, 14O

Explore Rockies Activity Centre Tickets and activity planning for attractions, sightseeing, adventures and transportation. Additional winter locations: 130 Banff Ave Map 3, 15P; Banff International Hotel, 333 Banff Ave Map 3, 13G; Cave & Basin, 311 Cave Ave Map 3, 19B. Brewster Transportation Centre, 100 Gopher St, 1-800-760-6934. Map 3, 14P

All Terrain Tours Banff Quad Tours Explore 4000 acres of foothills terrain on the Rockies' edge east of Banff Park aboard a powerful ATV. Cross rivers, forests and meadows. Full day and half day tours (winter from $245) to destinations like Margaret Falls, Lost Knife Creek and Waiparous Tower. View peaks and spot wildlife. Passengers free; can share driving (conditions apply). All skills welcome. ATV operation/safety instruction included. Heated trailhead change room. Private tours arranged. 1-866-853-4433.

Backcountry Lodges Banff Sundance Lodge Ski 16 km (10 mi) Sundance Canyon trail from Banff townsite. All meals, solar power, indoor washrooms and showers. 403-762-4551. Map 1, 10B Brewster’s Shadow Lake Lodge 20 km (12.5 mi) W of Banff on Hwy 1, is Red Earth Creek trail; it’s 14 km (9 mi) by x-c ski. Log cabins, historic day lodge, dining cabin and heated washroom building. Homestyle meals. Guided access can be arranged. 403-762-0116. Map 1, 8B Skoki Backcountry Lodge 11 km (7 mi) ski from Lake Louise Ski Area. Shuttle from parking to trailhead. All meals. 1930s log cabins and lodge. 403-522-1347. Map 2, 22D

Canyon Ice Walks Discover Banff Tours Guided tours with ice cleats, walking poles, transport and snack. Johnston Canyon WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

Sleigh rideS at lake louiSe

BREWSTER LakE LouiSE STaBLES Trips daily on the hour 403-522-3511 ext 1210 brewsteradventures.com

Beginner Ice Climbing Programs half day or full day

1-866-678-4164 yamnuska.com

1.866.853.4433 banffquads.com Servicing Banff, Canmore & Area

boW vaLLeY aCTiviTies

Icewalk—moderate trek along trail and catwalks suspended from rock walls to ice climbing venues and frozen Lower and upper Falls (8:30 am/1:30 pm from Banff; 4 hrs; $64, 8-12 $40). Johnston Canyon Icewalk Evening—trek to frozen ice formations lit by hand held spotlights (6:30 pm thurs, Fri, Sat, Sun, tues; 2.5 hrs; $64, 8-12 $40 includes souvenir headlamp). Grotto Canyon Icewalk—easy frozen creek bed walk to historic native rock paintings, icefalls and ice climbing venues (8:30 am from Banff; 8:45 am from Canmore; 4 hrs; $64, 8-12 $40). Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403-760-5007. Map 3, 14O white Mountain adventures Private guided ice walks; your time and pace (1-7 people $420, extra adult $60, extra child $45; with ice cleats, hot chocolate, snacks). Grotto Canyon Ice Walk: ice covered canyon floor, icefalls, native rock paintings. Johnston Canyon Ice Walk: catwalks, pillars of ice, rock tunnel to Lower Falls, upper Falls. 403-760-4403.

cAve tour canMore cave tours guided Rat’s nest Cave tours under grotto Mtn near Canmore. 4.5-hr Explorer Tour ($115, $105 yth; min 10 yrs). 4-hr Evening Tour (to Mar 31; 6 pm; $105, $95 yth; min 10 yrs). 6-hr Adventure Tour with 18 m/60 ft rappel and ‘Laundry Chute’ ($145, $135 yth; min 12 yrs). 30 min hike to cave included in times. Coveralls, helmet, light, gloves, kneepads provided. Strenuous, but no experience required. Cave is always 5°C/41°F. tours go daily, year round; meet at: 202, 129 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-8819. Map 4, 13P

climBing—ice & WAlls the Banff centre cliMBing gyM 4500 sq ft of indoor climbing space; 14 top-rope routes, lead climbing arch and bouldering routes. $10 with use of pool and exercise facilities. Lessons. gear rentals. 2 pm-10 pm; tues/thurs noon-10 pm. St Julien Rd, 403-762-6450. Map 3, 16K elevation place cliMBing wall 10,000 sq ft of indoor climbing with wall heights to 45 ft, 1500 sq ft bouldering and 30 ft speed wall. three Sisters Mountain views. Rental gear. the daily drop in fee ($15, $12 65-79/18-25, $8 12-17, $5 3-11, -3/80+ free) includes aquatics and fitness centre use. 700 Railway Ave, 403-678-8920. Map 4, 9I

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

yaMnuska Mountain adventures outdoor trips and lessons with ACMg certified guides. Half and full day ice climbing at popular Canmore and Banff area icefall venues from $145 with gear and instructor. Also offered during winter: backcountry skiing/boarding, avalanche courses, and mountain or glacier hut-to-hut excursions. Scheduled and private daily and multi-day activities; options for first-timers and those with skills. 200, 50 Lincoln Park, Canmore 403-678-4164. Map 4, 12K

X-c ski & snoWshoe Banff adventures rentals new and late model gear. Skates, tubbs snowshoes and ice walking cleats $15. Rossignol waxless x-c ski package $20. Hockey sticks $5, boots $10 and helmets $7. Activity and tours bookings. Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-762-4554. Map 3, 14N canMore nordic centre provincial park Former olympic and World Cup venue with 65 km (40 mi) of trails track-set for classic and skating techniques; 6.5 km (4 mi) lit for night skiing. day lodge and café. Rentals and lessons at Trail Sports (403-678-6764). 1988 olympic Way, 403-678-2400. Map 4, 9A x-country ski & snowshoe rentals Banff: Chateau Mountain Sports, Fairmont Banff Springs; 403762-2500 Map 3, 20L; Banff Adventures, Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-762-4554 Map 3, 14N; Snowtips, 225 Bear St, 403-762-8177 Map 3, 14N. Lake Louise: Chateau Mountain Sports, Fairmont Chateau 403-5223837 Map 2, 14C; Wilson Mountain Sports, Samson Mall, 403-522-3636 Map 2, 20M. Canmore: Trail Sports (x-c only), nordic Centre, 403-6786764 Map 4, 9A; GearUp,1302 Bow Valley tr, 403-678-1636 Map 4, 8I. Kananaskis: Kananaskis Outfitters, 403-591-7000 Map 1, 8I. ski trails Visitor Centres (p 57) provide trail conditions and route details. Favourite trails include: • Canmore Nordic Centre (see above) • Spray River Loop (easy; 12 km/3-4 hrs return; 65 m elevation gain; Map 3, 20M): track-set fire road follows the river to picnic tables; return on other side of the valley; tunnel and Rundle Mountain views. Start just past Fairmont Banff Springs parkade. • Boom Lake (intermediate; 10 km/34 hrs return; 180 m elevation gain;

Dog SleDDing

Since 1983 â&#x20AC;&#x153;Five Starâ&#x20AC;? Service: 2, 4 or 8 hour tours plus romantic moonlight and overnight programs all with delicious fireside cuisine Transport from Banff hotels and our Canmore store (109 - 829 10 Street) included Option: drive your own sled dog team

403-678-4369 1-888-311-MUSH (6874) snowyowltours.com

UNDER GROTTO MOUNTAIN Located in Canmore, 20 min from Banff Cave Always 5°C/41°F

• Explore Twisting Passages, Cave Decorations, Fossils and More! • All Caving Equipment Provided • Experienced Guides, Small Group Sizes • Trips Are Available Rain or Shine! • Tours Are Strenuous but No Experience Necessary

WINTER

ACTIVITY PASS ONLY 65 $

· Banff Gondola Pass · Banff Upper Hot Springs Pass · Sleigh Ride

Your Adventure Starts Here... 211 Bear Street, Banff PH: 403.762.4554 1.800.644.8888

www.banffadventures.com 50

Map 1, 7B): wide, gently rising trail between Banff and Lake Louise through forests to a lovely mountainringed lake; quick run back. Start Hwy 93S, 6 km south of Hwy 1. • Fairview Loop (easy; 7.5 km/2 hr; 50 m elevation gain; Map 2, 14B): short and entertaining uphills, downhills and turns through forest and clearings with views; park just east of the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. discover Banff tours guided 4-hour interpretive tours with snowshoes, poles, transport and snack. Snowshoeing to Marble Canyon over bridges spanning 40 m deep rock walls, beside tokumn Creek and through a fire-charred forest with stop for made-in-the-snow maple toffee (from Banff; 1:30 pm daily and 8:30 am Sat/Sun; $64, 8-12 $40). Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403760-5007. Map 3, 14O

Reservations 403.678.8819 • 1.877.317.1178

Your Activity Pass Includes:

aCTiviTies

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

inside out experience guided snowshoing and wilderness survival training. equipment, transport from meet location and snack provided. Kananaskis, 1-877-999-7238. kananaskis outfitters guided snowshoe tours include guide, snowshoes, poles and snacks (half day $90, ch $65; full day $165). Moonlit Snowshoe Fondue ($99). Cross-country ski lessons. Kananaskis Village, 403-591-7000. Map 1, 8I trail sports at canMore nordic centre 1.5-hr group x-c ski lessons Sat/Sun/hol (classic 10 am/noon, skating 10 am; $45; 13+). Private lessons $80 hr; extra person $40. Kid lessons. 1.5-hr guided tour $75. Ski rentals. 2003 olympic Way, 403-678-6764. Map 4, 9A white Mountain adventures Snowshoeing on Top of the World half day tours to Sunshine Meadows: ride Sunshine Village lifts to above treeline powder and views; tues-Sat; departs Banff 12:30 pm, Sunshine Village parking lot 1 pm; $72. Fortress Mountain half day snowshoe in Kananaskis: shuttle up private access road to powder and views; Fri-Sun; departs Banff 8:30 am, Canmore 9 am, Fortress Junction 10 am; $69, $79 from Canmore/Banff. transport, guide, gear, lifts, hot chocolate and cookies included. Also private snowshoe tours; pick your time, trip, pace: half day; 1-7 people $420, extra adult $60, extra child $45. 403-760-4403.

dog sled tours kingMik dog sled tours est. 1982, Kingmik is the region’s original sled dog company, and the only one operating in Banff national Park. Scenic mountain trail near Lake Louise to Kicking Horse Pass at the Continental divide capture the quiet grace of dog team travel. Max 5 sleds per tour; each accommodates 2 adults; all are guided and guests may accompany the guide in driving the team on the return. Per person rates based on 2 people per sled: 30 min $79, 1 hour $149, 1.5 hour $159. Banff shuttle option for select tours. Lake Louise dr (between the Village and Fairmont Chateau), 403-763-7789. Map 2, 15N snowy owl sled dog tours expert instructors and well trained, authentic huskies; mountain adventures along pristine trails. dog and sled handling instruction allows you to drive your team following an instructor, or relax in the warm comfort of a professionally driven sled. 2, 4 and 8 hour, evening and overnight tours all with Canadian campfire cuisine. Advocate for the ethical treatment of sled dogs. options: snowshoe, ice fishing, helicopter rides. Boot/clothing rentals, photographer onsite, Banff-Canmore shuttle. Bookings and souvenirs at the store: 109, 829 10 St, 403-678-4369. Map 4, 9J

golf—indoor hd golf siMulator at the fairMont Banff springs the latest in virtual golf. 20+ championship golf courses including Banff Springs' own Stanley thompson Course on 16’ by 11’ Hd screen with real clubs and balls (you can use theirs, no charge). Program weather, long drive, closest to the pin, etc. $20-$30/hr/person; reduced for 4 people. Fairmont Banff Springs Bowling & entertainment Ctr, 403-762-6892. Map 3, 20L siMulated indoor golf at stoney nakoda resort using real clubs, shoot into a 14’ by 21’ screen showing fairways, hazards, greens and scenery. 30 golf courses include Pebble Beach, Spyglass and Spanish Bay. Ball position uses missile tracking technology; add weather, mulligans and contests. $25/hr ($30/hr Fri-Sun after 4 pm) regardless of group size. optional catering and private poker. Casino adjacent. Free Banff/Canmore shuttle. Hwy 1 and Hwy 40, 15 min east of Canmore, 1-888-862-5632. Map 1, 8I

MOUNTAIN EXPLORER DEAL $89

BOOK DIRECT & SAVE SNOWSHOEING TOURS Any Half day SIGHTSEEING TOURS tour plus WILDLIFE VIEWING The Banff a DOGSLEDDING ol Gond MORE DEALS & ACTIVITIES

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403.760.5007 :: 1.877.565.9372 www.banfftours.com WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

boW vaLLeY aCTiviTies

heli skiing & tours NEW GE

canyon ice walk cleats $15 winter boots $10

ice skates $15 xc skis pkg $20 snowshoes $15

211 Bear St 403-762-4554

Free Hotel Pick-Up Toll Free: 1-888-293-8687 www.banffatvtours.com Banff

Tours

Dual lines over 500 metres long Hwy 1 to Beaverfoot Rd, 56 km W of Lk Louise

1-888-293-8687 • 403-760-3394 www.banffatvtours.com 52

alpine helicopters depart Canmore Heliport to remote terrain. Three Sisters Peaks (12 min, $119) peaks and valleys; Royal Canadian (25 min, $239) mountain peaks near Banff; Mt Assiniboine Glacier (30 min, $269). Banff/Canmore shuttle. Banff: 217 Bear St, Map 3, 14O. Canmore: 91 Bow Valley tr, 403-678-4802. Map 4, 12L kananaskis helicopter tours Scenery and live commentary on flights from their transCanada Hwy base. Introductory Tour ($69). Summit Tour (12 min, $135). First Nations Heritage (20 min, $199). Lake Minnewanka & Three Sisters (25 min, $249). Stoney First Nations Signature Rockies (30 min, $319). Mt Assiniboine & Continental Divide (42 min, $459). Ultimate Assiniboine (55 min, $599). Heli-snowshoe ($259). Banff/Canmore shuttle. Hwy 1 at Hwy 40, e of Canmore, 1-877-591-0222. Map 1, 8I rk heliski daily and multi-day packages for intermediate and advanced skiers/boarders. 3 and 5 run Powder Adventure $798/$940 (student and low season rates available), plus Bell 204 private programs. Jet helicopters access 1500 sq km (580 sq mi) with 900 runs from 500-1500 vertical m (1600-4800 ft). groups of 7 or 11 with ACMg certified guides; fat skis, transceiver, hot breakfast and picnic lunch included. Fireside Choppers Landing Restaurant & Lounge, tipi and alpine boutique. Banff transport available. Call, or book at discover Banff tours (Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave Map 3, 14O) or Banff Adventures (Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St Map 3, 14N). Heli-plex is 2 hours SW of Banff at Panorama via scenic Kootenay Park, 1-800-6616060. Map 1, 6H

hockey tours/gAmes Banff adventures See a Calgary Flames professional ice hockey game. tours include round-trip motorcoach transport from Banff or Canmore, on-board guide, and game ticket ($115/$145): tours are scheduled for dec 4, 6, 10, 12, 23, 27, 29, 31; Jan 3, 9, 11, 16, 22, 24, 28, 30; Feb 1, 27; Mar 5, 7, 10, 12, 18, 21, 24, 26, 28; Apr 9, 11; hopefully play-offs after. Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-7624554. Map 3, 14N canMore eagles talented 16 to 20 year old Junior Hockey League players compete. Home games (usu-

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

ally 7 pm; $13, sen/stu $10, -12 $8): dec 7, 10, 20, 21; Jan 3, 10, 24, 25, 31; Feb 1, 15, 17, 28; playoffs afterward. Canmore Recreation Centre, 1900 8 Ave, 403-678-1855. Map 4, 5F

horseBAck riding rafter six ranch resort guided winter trail rides (1 hr $55) with fleece saddle covers. Reserve. e of Canmore off Hwy 1, S at Rafter Six exit, 1-888-267-2624. Map 1, 8I other stables reopen from mid-April: • Holiday on Horseback Spray River Corral (Fairmont Banff Springs) and Warner Stables (across the river from downtown Banff). the trail Rider, 132 Banff Ave, 403-762-4551. Map 3, 16P • Brewster Lake Louise Stables, the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, 403522-1608. Map 2, 14C • Timberline Tours, deer Lodge, 403522-3743. Map 2, 15C • Boundary Ranch near Kananaskis Village, 1-877-591-7177. Map 1, 8I

ice fishing Banff fishing unliMited Private trips with guide always land a catch of trout. Heated huts, tackle, boots and outerwear supplied. Hot drinks and lunch of your fish. transport to Spray Lakes, south of Canmore. Also, year-round Bow River fly fishing and spin casting. 403-762-4936.

ice skAting/curling Banff adventures rentals CCM skates $15, hockey sticks $5 and helmets $7. Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-762-4554. Map 3, 14N canMore golf & curling cluB Curling sheet (from $70/hr, reduced rates for multiple sheets) include brush and slider rentals. Instruction upon request. 2000-8 Ave, 403-6785959 ext 223. Map 4, 4E canMore recreation centre Indoor skating $5.25, $3 yth/55+, free -6, $12 family. drop-in hockey. Call for hrs. 1900 8 Ave, 403-6785597. Map 4, 5F the fenlands Banff recreation centre Indoor skating $5, $3 yth/sen; Mon-thurs noon-2 pm; Sun 6:30 pm-8 pm. drop-in hockey (full gear required) $5; Mon-Wed 12:30-1:45 pm, thurs (40+) 2:303:45 pm. outdoor rink. Skate rentals. drop-in curling; call for hours 403762-1238. 100 norquay Rd, 403-7621235. Map 3, 17H

Create lasting memories right at our doorstep.

fairmont.com/lakelouise 1 800 441 1414

aCTiviTies

outdoor rinks Banff: Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel by Waldhaus Restaurant Map 3, 20L; on the Banff High School field Map 3, 12P; beside the Fenlands Banff Recreation Ctr Map 3, 12E; Bow River at the end of Wolf St Map 3, 14E. Canmore: Pond at 7 Ave and Mallard Alley Map 4, 8F; elk Run and Canyon Rd (may be closed for repairs) Map 4, 10N; 17 St hockey rink by the day care Map 4, 6C. Kananaskis: Village Centre pond and night-lit hockey rink Map 1, 8I. Lake Louise: Fairmont Chateau Lk Louise Map 2, 13C; emerald Lk Lodge Map 2, 14K. skate rentals Lake Louise: Chateau Mountain Sports, Fairmont Chateau 403-522-3837 Map 2, 14C; Wilson Mountain Sports, Samson Mall, 403-522-3636 Map 2, 20M. Banff: Banff Adventures, Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-762-4554, Map 3, 14N; Chateau Mountain Sports, Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-2500 Map 3, 20L, Snowtips, 225 Bear St, 403-7628177, Map 3, 14N. Canmore: GearUp, 1302 Bow Valley tr, 403-678-1636 Map 4, 8I. Kananaskis: Kananaskis Outfitters, 403-591-7000. Map 1, 8I

Photo tours/lessons Banff photography Professional photographers for hire. Photo Walkabout camera and photo-taking tips (1-hr; $75 with 8” X 10” canvas print of your image; min 2 people). Private lessons ($150/hr). Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-3653 Map 2, 14C; Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-2413 Map 3, 20L; 101 Banff Ave, 403-762-3562 Map 3, 17O.

sightseeing lift

L ake Louise, Banff national Park

Call us 403.763.7789 or 1.855.482.4592 www.kingmikdogsledtours.Com

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

Banff gondola Popular year round; view “more mountains in a moment than most see in a lifetime.” enclosed boarding area with gift shop and Starbucks. 4-seat gondolas; window seats for all. 8-min ride to 2281 m/7486 ft upper terminal, restaurants, Banff Summit Walk to Sanson Peak Cosmic Ray Station national Historic Site (weather permitting), giant interactive compass and observation decks with 360° Banff and Bow Valley view. $35, 6-15 $17, -5 free. groups pre-book. 5 min from downtown (Banff transit #1), Mountain Ave, 1-800-760-6934. Map 3, 21J

sightseeing tours Banff culture walk Self-guided walk to galleries, museums, cultural sites. Free guide/map at venues and Visitor Ctr, 224 Banff Ave. Map 3, 14P

discover Banff tours Sightseeing to scenic viewpoints and cultural venues with wildlife viewing. 24 person mini-buses with binoculars, snacks and hot chocolate. Knowledgeable guides. dec to mid-Apr: Discover Banff & Its Wildlife 3 hr town and vicinity tour (9 am, $54, 6-12 $30, -6 free); Discover Lake Louise 6.5 hrs with snowshoe sampler and hot chocolate and maple cookies (10:15 am; $70, 6-12 $40, -6 free); Grotto Canyon Icewalk and Johnston Canyon Icewalk (see p 47). Snowshoeing to Marble Canyon (see p 50). Winter Specials: book any two sightseeing tours for $109; book any two activities for $119. Additional tours after mid-Apr. Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403-760-5007. Map 3, 14O gypsy guide self drive tours enhance your Rockies drive with entertaining, informative tours. Commentary (sites, pioneers, photo stops, wildlife) automatically plays at 1500+ gPS activation points. download the app; tours are $3 to $5 each. or, rent a device that plays on your car radio. First day $39; multi-day discounts; one-way rentals. In Banff: discover Banff tours, Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 1-866-477-4171. Map 3, 14O Mountain guides Certified mountain guides offer safe backcountry tours from glacier traverses to ice climbs. Multi-day, hut-to-hut trips,

+ GST

INCLUDES :

PER PERSON

SAVE $6

SLEIGH RIDE + BANFF GONDOLA TICKET + HOT SPRINGS TICKET

DOGSLEDDING

PER PERSON

children’s xplorer’s cluB Free activity booklet for kids 6-11. explore Banff activities like match-the-trackwith-the-animal and Bow River scavenger hunt; finish 6 for Parks Canada certificate and souvenir. Booklets at Banff and Lake Louise visitor centres Map 3, 14P/Map 2, 20M, Banff Park Museum Map 3, 18O, Cave & Basin Map 3, 19B. 403-762-1550.

BANFF CLASSICS

+ GST

INCLUDES :

BEST VALUE 30 MIN DOGSLEDDING

MOUNTAIN EXPLORER

+ GST

INCLUDES :

PE R P E R S O N

canMore historic walking tour Self-guided walk. 12 churches, police barracks, mines, museums and residences. Free guide/map at Canmore Museum Map 4, 19C, nWMP Barracks Map 4, 20F, visitor centres.

ea ls D r e t n i W Best

SAVE $16

SNOWSHOEING, ICEWALK OR SIGHTSEEING + BANFF GONDOLA TICKET

TWO ACTIVITIES

119

+ GST

INCLUDES :

PER PERSON

Banff historical walking tour Self-guided 25 block, 1.5 hr route to 42 heritage residences (from 1887), museums, churches, public buildings and cemetery (1890). Blue interpretive plaques flag sites. Free guide/map at Banff Visitor Centre, 224 Banff Ave, Map 3, 14P, museums, library and town Hall.

SAVE $15

CHOOSE 2 ACTIVITIES: ICEWALKS, SNOWSHOEING OR SIGHTSEEING

215 BANFF AVE :: SUNDANCE MALL, BANFF, AB

403.760.5007 :: 1.877.565.9372 :: banfftours.com WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

boW vaLLeY aCTiviTies

mountaineering courses and custom trips. Yamnuska, 403-678-4164.

ski AreAs

See Alberta Rockies Ski Feature p 18 and Kootenay Rockies Feature p 24.

sleigh/cArriAge rides Banff carriage service elegant horse-drawn carriage rides along town roads, the Bow River or other destination (winter: custom tours from $100). Pick-ups arranged. Wool blankets. the trail Rider, 132 Banff Ave, 403-762-4551. Map 3, 16O

Includes transport from Banff or Canmore, ticket and onboard guide

Banff’s Activity Booking Centre 211 Bear St

•

403.762.4554

banffadventures.com

Brewster lake louise horse drawn sleigh rides 45-min to 1-hr trips along Lake Louise beneath Victoria glacier aboard 2-horse sleighs with blankets and cushioned seats: $30, $27 -8; wkdys 1, 2, 3, 4, 7 and 8 pm; plus 10 and 11 am Sat/hols; Sun 10 and 11 am, 1, 2, 3 and 4 pm. try a spectacular evening excursion. Romantic 2-seat cutter rides $375 hr on request. Sleigh ride to dinner at Brewster BBQ & dance Barn with live band for groups; individuals welcome dec 23, 27, 29. Fairmont Chateau Lk Louise, 403-522-3511 ext 1210. Map 2, 14C holiday on horseBack Horsedrawn sleigh rides through woodlands and a mountain meadow just beyond downtown Banff (Public Sleigh Rides on the hour 10 am-8 pm daily; 45-min; $30, $26 4-12, free -4). Luxury 2-seat cutter for romantic 45-min outings with chocolates and liqueurs ($182/couple). group bookings welcome. the trail Rider, 132 Banff Ave, 403-762-4551. Map 3, 16O rafter six ranch resort Carriage and cutter sleigh rides (2 people, 1/2 hr, $99). Sleigh and wagon rides (4-7 people, $33, ch $19; 8+ people, $25, ch $15). Blankets and hot chocolate. Reserve. 15 min e of Canmore, 1-888-267-2624. Map 1, 8I

snoWmoBile tours

Wild Goose TradinG • Canmore

102 - 820 Main St • 403.678.3566 56

awesoMe all season adventures: Banff snowMoBile tours guided backcountry tours on new snowmobiles. Powder, frozen falls/creeks, mountain views, historic trapper cabins. novice to experienced riders welcome. Half day $189 and full day $249; snack and hot drink. Free Banff-Lake Louise-Canmore shuttle. Machine upgrades and winter wear available. Add a thrilling zipline tour ($99). off Hwy 1, 30 min W of Lake Louise, 403-760-3394. Map 1, 5I

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

toBy creek adventures 32,000 acres: trails, high alpine bowls, icefalls, heated trapper’s cabin and silver mining ghost town. tours ($219-$369) with powder basin play for beginners, families and advanced riders: half day with snack and full day with cabin lunch. Powder X high performance and Private VIP options. Suit, boots, helmet, guides and powerful snowmobile (up to 170 hp) included. Passenger and child rates. Multi-day packages with mountain resort or backcountry lodging. Free transport from Banff/ Canmore. 2213 toby Creek Rd, near Panorama Mountain Village, SW of Banff, 1-888-357-4449. Map 1, 6H

toBoggAning toBoggan hills Banff: Fairmont Banff Springs by Waldhaus Restaurant and Spray River Map 3, 20L. Canmore: Cemetery Hill by Benchlands tr Map 4, 8K; Riverside Park gentle Bow River slope Map 4, 9E. Kananaskis Village: gentle run, night lit Map 1, 8I. Rentals—Banff: Snowtips, 225 Bear St, 403-762-8177 Map 3, 14N; Chateau Mountain Sports, Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-2500 Map 3, 20L. Buy a toboggan—Banff: Home Hardware, 233 Bear St, 403-762-2080 Map 3, 14N; Canmore: Sports Experts, 1080 Railway Ave, 403-609-3030 Map 4, 8H; Kananaskis: Kananaskis Outfitters, 403-591-7000 Map 1, 8I.

ZiPline tour awesoMe all season adventures: Banff Zipline tours 3 dual ziplines descend the mountain and cross the Kicking Horse River. Short trail and ramp interpretive walks between lines add an educational element to tours ($99). no experience needed; gear provided. Snowmobiling combo. off Hwy 1, 30 min west of Lake Louise, 403-760-3394. Map 1, 5I

Snowshoeing on Top of the World

from with guide, gear, gondola and chairlift & Banff shuttle

whitemountainaDventures whitemountainadventures.com 1.800.408.0005

louise Y Banff•lake Canmore•kananaskis

essentials

emergenCy

fire/poliCe/mediCal ...............911 Road Report ...............................................511 police/RCMp.....................403-762-2228 Weather ..............................403-762-2088

banks/currency Banff: ATB Financial, Cascade Shops, 317 Banff Ave, 403-762-8505. Bank of Montreal, 107 Banff Ave, 403-7622275. Bow Valley Credit Union, 216 Banff Ave, 403-762-3368. CIBC, 98 Banff Ave, 403-762-3317. Freya's Currency Exchange (lottery tickets), Clock Tower Mall, 108 Banff Ave, 403-762-4714. Canmore: ATB Financial, 1240 Railway Ave, 403-678-6868. Bank of Montreal, 701 Main St, 403-678-5568. Bow Valley Credit Union, 810 Main St, 403-6785549. CIBC, 730 Main St, 403-6096200. Royal Bank, 1000 Railway Ave, 403-678-3180. Scotiabank, 1160 Railway Ave, 403-609-4250. TD Canada Trust, 1350 Railway Ave, 403-609-4750. Lake Louise: ATB Financial, The depot, Samson Mall, 403-522-3678.

business services Banff: Banff Library, 403-762-2661; Bow Valley Basics, 403-762-4228. Canmore: Bow Valley Basics, 403-6782728; Canmore Library, 403-6782468; Rogers Wireless, 403-678-0031; Sigma Computer & Print, 403-6782555; The UPS Store, 403-609-3224. Lake Louise: The Depot, Samson Mall, 403-522-3870. Also contact hotels.

child care Day Care Society of Banff, 403-762-3339. Banff YWCA Childcare Registry (babysitters), 403-760-3200. Childcare Connections (hotel sitting), 403-760-4443. Canmore Day Care, 403-678-5762.

pHoTo: SToney nAkodA ReSoRT & CASino

churches Banff: Anglican, 403-762-2128; Banff Park, 403-762-3225; Catholic, 403-7622603; Full Gospel, 403-762-2740; Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, 403-7623113; Presbyterian, 403-762-3279; United, 403-762-2075. Canmore: Alpine Christian, 403-609-0832; Anglican, 403-678-5191; Baptist, 403-678-2861; Catholic, 403-678-5022; Jehovah's Witnesses, 403-678-4121; Lutheran, 403-678-6700; Rocky Mountain Victory, 403-678-9801; Trinity Bible, 403678-5063; United, 403-678-5354.

info/visitor centres Banff: Banff Information Ctr, 224 Banff Ave (9 am-5 pm to May 15; after con-

Poker Run The Stoney nakoda Resort & Casino (p 37) offers free Banff and Canmore transfers Fridays and Saturdays (p 58); reservations are not required. Service is also available for groups and during special events; call 403-881-2836. —kirsten Varsek firm) Map 3, 14P hosts Banff/Lake Louise Tourism Bureau (lodging, activities, events) 403-762-8421; Parks Canada (facilities, trails, permits) 403-762-1550 Lake Louise: Visitor Ctr (Thu-Sun 9 am4:30 pm to Apr 30; after confirm) Samson Mall, 403-522-3833 Map 2, 20M Canmore: Tourism Canmore 8:30 am5:30 pm, 907 7 Ave, 403-678-1295 Map 4, 19C; Travel Alberta (9 am5 pm), Hwy 1 and Bow Valley Tr, 1-800-252-3782 Map 4, 3E. Kananaskis: Village Ctr (8:30 am-noon/ 12:30-4:30 pm), 403-591-7555 Map 1, 8I; Barrier Lake (to Feb 24, Mon-Fri 9 am-12:30 pm/1:15-4:15 pm, Sat-Sun 9 am-5 pm; after confirm), Hwy 40, 10 km/6 mi S of Hwy 1, 403-673-3985 Map 1, 8I; Peter Lougheed Park (closed due to flooding, confirm), kananaskis Lakes Tr, 403-591-6322 Map 1, 8H; toll-free 403-310-0000 then phone #. parks radio 101.1 fm Banff trail reports, hourly weather, activities, history/nature and music. Web podcasts.

Medical services Hospitals Banff Mineral Springs, 305 Lynx St, 403-762-2222 Map 3, 14E. Canmore, 1100 Hospital place off Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-5536 Map 4, 7I. walk-in CliniCs Banff: Bear Street Family Physicians, 302, 220 Bear St, 403-762-4846 Map 3, 15N. Alpine Medical Clinic (daily), 201, 211 Bear St, 403-762-3155 Map 3, 14N. Canmore: Associate Medical Clinic, 124, 1151 Sidney St, 403-678-5585 (by appointment) Map 4, 8I; and Ridgeview Medical Clinic, 212-1240 Rail-

way Ave, 403-609-8333 Map 4, 8G. Lake Louise: Medical Clinic, 200 Hector St, 403-522-2184 Map 2, 20M. Canmore Veterinary Hospital Mon-Sat; 24-hr emergency phone 403-678-8343, 502 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-4425 Map 4, 10J.

Postal services Banff: Canada Post, 204 Buffalo St, 403-762-2586 Map 3, 17N. Canmore: Canada Post, 801 Main St, 403-678-4377 Map 4, 20C; Sobeys, 950 Railway Ave, 403-678-4404 Map 4, 8H; The UPS Store, 743 Railway Ave, 403-609-3224 Map 4, 9H. Lake Louise: The Depot, Samson Mall, 403-522-3870 Map 2, 20M.

service clubs Banff: Rotary Club, 403-762-4367. Canmore: Lions Club, 403-609-9982; Rotary Club, 403-707-8878.

transPortation

Brewster lake louise-Banff Bus ($25, 6-15 $12; 403-762-6751) Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise 6:15 am, 8:15 am, 10:15 am, 12:15 pm, 4:45 pm. Banff Bus Station 1:45 pm, 3:15 pm, 5:45 pm, 7:30 pm, 8:45 pm. Confirm times. Calgary airport serViCe Banff Airporter, 1-888-449-2901; Brewster 1-800-760-6934. Car rentals Banff: Avis, Cascade Shops, 403-762-3222 Map 3 13O; Budget, 208 Caribou St (Bear St access), 403-762-4565 Map 3, 15N; WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

Bow Valley essentials

Enterprise, Lynx St at Caribou Ave, 403-762-2688 Map 3, 15N; Hertz, The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403762-2027 Map 3, 10L. Canmore: Budget, Ramada inn, 1402 Bow Valley Tr, 1-800-267-0505 Map 4, 7H; Enterprise, 514 Bow Valley Tr, 403-609-3070 Map 4, 10J; PractiCar, Ford dealership, 101 Bow Valley Tr, 403-679-2253 Map 4, 12K. Lake Louise: National, Samson Mall, 403522-3870 Map 2, 20M.

way, Map 4, 8H, 5:30 pm, 7:30 pm, 10:30 pm, 1:30 am, 2:45 am. Arrive casino 6 pm, 8 pm, 11 pm, 2 am.

Car repair Canmore: Canadian Tire, 1110 Gateway Ave, 403-6783295 Map 4, 8H; Canmore Lube & Muffler, 1556 Railway Ave, 403-6786670 Map 4, 7G; Speedy Auto Glass, 1558 Railway Ave, 403-678-6621 Map 4, 7G.

mountain ConneCtor JasperBanff Bus ($69, -12 $39 JasperBanff; $59, -12 $35 Jasper-Lake Louise; operates to Apr 30; 1-888-7863641) northbound to Jasper: Banff 1:30 pm; Lake Louise 2:15 pm; Jasper 5:30 pm. Southbound to Banff: Jasper 7 am, Lake Louise 10:45 am; Banff noon. Confirm times; reserve ahead.

Casino sHuttle To Stoney Nakoda Lodge Fri-Sat; free; 1-888-8625632. depart: Casino, Map 1, 8I, 6 pm, 9 pm, mid, 2:15 am; Fairmont Banff Springs, Map 3, 20L, 5 pm, 7 pm, 10 pm, 1 am, 3 am; Mt Royal Hotel, Map 3, 15G, 5:10 pm, 7:10 pm, 10:10 pm, 1:10 am, 3:10 am; Canmore Safe-

Amazing Winter Specials

Stay & Ski Packages 1 & 2 bedroom suites with mountain views Full kitchens • Fitness centre • Outdoor hot tub Restaurant/bar • Underground parking • Pet friendly

160 Kananaskis Way, Canmore 1.866.609.6600 • windtower.ca 58

CHarter serViCes Banff Transportation, 403-762-8400; Brewster, 403-762-6700; Grayline, 403-7629102; Pinnacle, 403-762-5844; SunDog Transportation, 1-888-786-3641. greyHound Banff, 403-762-1091, Lake Louise, 403-522-3870.

roam puBliC transit Banff Public Transit Signed stops Map 3. Many have GpS real-time arrivals; schedules posted ($2, ch/sen $1, -6 free, day pass $5; 403-762-0606). BanffCanmore Regional ($6, ch/sen $3, -6 free; book of ten $50, ch/sen $25; 403-762-0606) Mon-Fri: depart Banff Ave Stop #100, n of the high school, Map 3, 13G, 6 am-9 pm on the hour plus Thurs/Fri 10 pm; depart Canmore Stop #110, near Holiday inn on palliser Tr, Map 4, 7J, 6:29 am-9:29 pm every hour plus Thurs/ Fri 10:29 pm. Sat/Sun/hol: depart Banff 9 am-7 pm on the hour plus Sat 8 pm and 9 pm; depart Canmore 9:29 am-7:29 pm every hour plus Sat 8:29 pm and 9:29 pm. Additional Banff and Canmore stops/times noted online. Confirm times.

nightlife

Continued from page 39

Canmore:

Boston pizza lounge “Best sports bar,” Rocky Mountain Outlook; 8 big Hds; drink specials. 1704 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-3300. Map 4, 6G Canmore Hotel punk rock bingo Tues. Bands Fri/Sat, some Thurs. Jam Sun. Happy hr 4-8 pm, all Sun. 738 Main St, 403-678-5181. Map 4, 20C Communitea Cafe indie band and singer/songwriter events. 1001 6 Ave, 403-678-6618. Map 4, 19E tHe drake karaoke Mon. Rock bands Fri/Sat. dJ Thurs/Sun. 909 Railway Ave, 403-678-5131. Map 4, 20H frenCH Quarter Café Live jazz nights (call for dates). Cooking classes every 2nd Tues. 105 Cougar Creek dr, 403-678-3612. Map 4, 13O tHe grizzly paw puB & Brewing Co Beers brewed on-site; tours with notice. Fireplace, sports TVs. 622 Main St, 403-678-9983. Map 4, 20F patrinos puB pool, darts, big TV. drink specials. Tues pool. Wed wings. Sun happy hr/50¢ pool. 1602 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-4060. Map 4, 6G tHe rose & Crown 16 drafts, TVs, pool, darts, Buck Hunter and pGA golf. Separate restaurant. 749 Railway Ave, 403-678-5168. Map 4, 19H

lake louise:

Bill peyto’s lounge Fireplace. Mon movies; Tues karaoke; Wed documentaries; Fri ski movies; Fri/ Sat bonfires; Sun free pool. 203 Village Rd, 403-522-2200. Map 2, 19N

ski area sHuttles Big 3 Ski Shuttles to norquay, Sunshine and Lake Louise. Ask at hotels; Banff Ski Hub, 119 Banff Ave, 403-762-4754. Kicking Horse Powder Express daily from hotels in Banff (pick-ups 6:45 am-7:20 am) and Lake Louise (8 am); departs kicking Horse at 4 pm; $90 with lift pass, 1-877-565-9372. Panorama Ski Bus daily from hotels in Canmore (pick-ups from 7 am) and Banff (pick-ups from 7:30 am); departs panorama 4 pm; $89 return with lift pass, 1-866-416-2034.

lake louise inn Explorer’s Lounge: fireplace, shuffleboard, pool, darts and plasma for sports/UFC. Thurs dance night. occasional bands. Lower Village, 403-522-3791. Map 2, 20N

taxi serViCe Banff 403-7624444; Canmore 403-996-0656; Highland Chauffeur 403-688-8279. Lake Louise 403-522-2700.

post Hotel & spa Fireside Lounge: pianist Thurs-Sun 6:30 pm-10 pm. Outpost Pub. 200 pipestone Rd, 403522-3989. Map 2, 20M

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

tHe fairmont CHateau lake louise Lakeview Lounge: majestic view and occasional harpist. Glacier Saloon: pool, satellite tunes, dance floor. 403-522-3511. Map 2, 14C

louise Y Banff•lake Canmore•kananaskis

In te rn et :W Di irel al- es up s/ /L HiHi ob sp gh by ee Se Ki d os as k on Ra te s$ To ll F re e

llit

ies

s R s es one se Rm rci ac p pl /Ph r xe s$ E e a ica B Fir ing l/ te s u d / o ) / o m O Ra n an r/ hirlp n t (s t t e s i t i o oo H o o n R / t g as ra e n e o n d do /W es In tin Se a au st tch ir C ol aun ee w Gu S M Re Ki # A Po Lo 21 C S/W/E R/B P W 99 69 1-800-563-8764 52 C R/B P W/L M/H 44‡ 35‡ 1-866-762-4122 89 C S/W R P W/L M/H 180 128 1-800-661-0227 195 C S/W/E R/B F P W/L M/H 229 109 1-800-563-8764 405 S/C/M I S/W/E R/B K/F P W/L M/H 170 100 1-800-884-7574 99 C S/W R/B F A/P W/L 199† 129† 1-800-667-1464 o td

Rates are for a basic room, double occupancy. High season is usually summer, low season is usually spring/fall. Call to confirm. *Closed for the Winter. ***Closed for the Summer. †Breakfast included. ††Breakfast & dinner included. §Pets allowed. **Only packages available. ‡ Hostel: price per bed.

Banff hotels

lodging

Arrow Motel, 337 Banff Ave Banff Alpine Centre, Tunnel Mtn Rd Banff Aspen Lodge, 401 Banff Ave

403-762-4496 403-762-4123 403-762-4401

§Banff Caribou Lodge & Spa, 521 Banff Ave The Banff Centre, 107 Tunnel Mountain Dr Banff Inn, 501 Banff Ave

403-762-5887 403-762-6308 403-762-8844

Banff International Hotel, 333 Banff Ave Banff Park Lodge Resort Hotel, 222 Lynx St §Banff Ptarmigan Inn, 337 Banff Ave

403-762-5666 162 S/M S/W/E R/B 403-762-4433 211 C/M I S/W/E R/B 403-762-2207 134 C S/W/E R/B

§Banff Rocky Mtn Resort, 1029 Banff Ave §Banff Voyager Inn, 555 Banff Ave Banff Y Mountain Lodge, 102 Spray Ave

403-762-5531 171 C/M I 403-762-3301 88 C O 403-762-3560 42

F F

W/E R/B K/F S/W R/B R/B

P P P P P P

W/L M 199 99 W/L M/H 151 98 W/L M/H 229† 109† W/L M 179 99 W/L M 139 119 W/L M 86 69

K A/P W/L 200† P W/L M/H 179 P W/L M/H 255† S/W/E R/B K/F P W/L M 223 P W 125 W/L M/H 289 W/E K/F I S/W K/F A/P W 199 I S/W/E R/B F A/P W/L M 274 I S/W/E K/F A/P W/L M 239 S/W/E R/B P W 159 W K/F 125† I/O S/W/E R/B F A/P W/H M/H 469

1-800-665-5666 1-800-661-9266 1-800-563-8764 1-800-563-8764 1-800-879-1991 1-800-813-4138

§Best Western Siding 29 Lodge, 453 Marten St 403-762-5575 56 C/M I W Bow View Lodge, 228 Bow Ave 403-762-2261 58 C I S/W/E Brewster’s Mountain Lodge, 208 Caribou St 403-762-2900 77 C S/W/E

100† n/a 89 1-800-661-1565 155† 1-888-762-2900

Buffalo Mountain Lodge, 700 Tunnel Mtn Rd 403-762-2400 108 C/M §Bumper’s Inn, 250 Marmot Crs 403-762-3386 39 S/M §Castle Mountain Chalets, Hwy 1A & Hwy 93S 403-762-3868 21 S/M

147 1-800-661-1367 75 1-800-661-3518 239 1-877-762-2281

Charlton’s Cedar Court, 513 Banff Ave 403-762-4485 57 Delta Royal Canadian Lodge, 459 Banff Ave 403-762-3307 99 §Douglas Fir Resort & Chalets, Tunnel Mtn Rd 403-762-5591 130

C C C

§Driftwood Inn, 337 Banff Ave Elkhorn Lodge, 124 Spray Ave §The Fairmont Banff Springs, 405 Spray Ave

403-762-4496 32 C 403-762-2299 8 C 403-762-2211 768 C/M

The Fox Hotel & Suites, 461 Banff Ave

403-760-8500 116

BANFF CARIBOU LODGE & SPA

HIDDEN RIDGE CONDO RESORT

1-800-563-8764

129 1-800-661-1225 174 1-800-661-1379 134 1-800-661-9267 89 1-800-563-8764 100† n/a 359 1-800-441-1414

W/E R/B K/F A/P W/L M/H 259† 129† 1-800-563-8764

BANFF PTARMIGAN INN

INNS OF BANFF

bestofbanff.com

9 GREAT LODGES: Secluded condos to full service hotels for all budgets • FEATURING: Luxury ‘Mountain Feather Beds’

THE FOX RUNDLE MANOR HOTEL & SUITES APT. HOTEL

BANFF ROCKY MTN RESORT

DRIFTWOOD INN

Winter 2013/2014 //

where.ca

lodging

Banff hotels

In te rn et :W ir Di eles al- s/ up Hi Hi /L -sp gh ob ee by d Se Ki as os on k Ra te s$ To ll F re e

louise Y Banff•lake Canmore•kananaskis

ies

s R s es ne se Rm rci lac ho xe ap s$ a r i re p g / P c i B lo /E te d F in )/ o O Ra an om (s t e s / t i o n r/ hirlp n t o H o o i t n tR g/ as ra e n e o n d do /W es In tin Se a au st tch ir C ol aun ee w Gu S M Re Ki # A Po Lo §Hidden Ridge Condo Resort, Hidden Rdg Wy 403-762-3544 107 C O K/F P W/L 259 129 1-800-563-8764 A/P W/L M/H 206† 99† 1-800-661-1244 High Country Inn, 419 Banff Ave 403-762-2236 70 C I S/W R §Homestead Inn, 217 Lynx St 403-762-4471 27 C I S/W/E R/B P W/L 149 79 1-800-661-1021 §Inns of Banff, 600 Banff Ave 403-762-4581 244 C I/O S/W R/B K/F P W/L M/H 179 119 1-800-563-8764 403-762-4566 65 C S/W/E R/B A/P W/L M/H 179 89 1-800-661-1721 §Irwin’s Mountain Inn, 429 Banff Ave

403-762-3331 403-762-4184 403-762-3356

Rundle Manor Apt Hotel, 348 Marten St Rundlestone Lodge, 537 Banff Ave SameSun Backpacker, 433 Banff Ave

403-762-5544 403-762-2201 403-762-4499

llit

*Johnston Canyon Resort, Hwy 1A E of Hwy 93S 403-762-2971 42 M §The Juniper Hotel, 1 Juniper Way 403-762-2281 52 S/M 403-985-3734 21 C King Edward Hotel, 137 Banff Ave

§Mount Royal Hotel, 138 Banff Ave §Red Carpet Inn, 425 Banff Ave §Rimrock Resort Hotel, 300 Mountain Ave

R K/F 149 R/B K/F A/P W M/H 203 A/P W 130 134 C S/W R/B F A/P W/L M 199 52 C W A/P W/L 156† 346 C/M I S/W/E R/B F A/P W/L M/H 278 24 C S/W/E R/B K P W 149 96 C/M I W/E R/B K/F A/P W/L M/H 244 14 C R/B F A/P W 33‡ H 159 120 C O S/W R/B F A/P W

Spruce Grove Inn, 545 Banff Ave 403-762-3301 §Storm Mtn Lodge & Cabins, Hwy 93S, S of Hwy 1 403-762-4155 16 ***Sunshine Mountain Lodge, Sunshine Ski Area 403-762-6500 84

Tunnel Mountain Resort, Tunnel Mtn Rd

403-762-4515 95

R/B S/W/E R/B I S/W/E

F F

K/F

W/L

134 1-888-378-1720 119 1-866-551-2281 59 1-888-762-2607

99 1-800-267-3035 76† 1-800-563-4609 218 1-888-746-7625 89 1-800-563-8764 99 1-800-661-8630 32‡ 1-888-762-4499

139 1-800-879-1991 239 169 n/a M **330 **140 1-877-542-2633 299 149 1-800-661-1859

canmore & KananasKis hotels A Bear & Bison Country Inn, 705 Benchlands Tr §Akai Motel, 1717 Mountain Ave Alpine Club of Canada, Indian Flats Rd §Banff Boundary Lodge, 1000 Harvie Heights Rd Banff Gate Mountain Resort, Dead Man's Flats §Best Western Plus Pocaterra Inn, 1725 Mtn Ave

403-678-2058 403-678-4664 403-678-3200 403-678-9555 403-609-9229 403-678-4334

10 43 59 40 46 83

C W C S/M W C/M S/C/M I S/W/E C/M I S/W/E

§Big Horn Motel, 1 St, Dead Man’s Flats 403-678-2290 28 S/M §Blackstone Mountain Lodge, 170 Kananaskis Way 403-609-8098 158 C/M O §Bow Valley Motel, 610 - 8 St 403-678-5085 25 C §Canadian Rockies Chalets, 1206 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-3799 46 Canmore Hotel, 738 - Main St 403-678-5181 15 §Canmore Rocky Mountain Inn, 1719 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-5221 50

§Chateau Canmore, 1720 Bow Valley Tr §Copperstone Resort Hotel, 250-2 Ave §Creekside Country Inn, 709 Benchlands Tr

C S C

403-678-6699 93 403-678-0303 68 403-609-5522 12

159† 65 36‡ 94 159 115†

K A/P W K/F A/P W K A/P W

H M

89 219 130

59 1-800-892-9908 189 1-888-830-8883 85 1-800-665-8189

K/F

299 114 1-800-386-7248 45 45 n/a 119† 99† 1-800-268-0935

R/B

§Delta Lodge at Kananaskis, Kananaskis Village 403-591-7711 412 C/M §The Drake Inn, 909 Railway Ave 403-678-5131 26 C §Econo Lodge Canmore, 1602-2 Ave 403-678-5488 60 C Falcon Crest Lodge, 190 Kananaskis Way §Fire Mountain Lodge, 121 Kananaskis Way

W/E

F A W M/H 179† K A/P W 95 K P W/L M/H 36‡ K/F P W/L M 189 K/F P W/L M/H 189 F A/P W/L M/H 204†

W/L W A/P W/L

n/a n/a n/a 1-877-678-9555 1-877-609-9229 1-888-678-6786

I S/W/E R/B F A/P W/L M/H 139 99 1-800-261-8551 W/E K/F A/P W 269 209 1-866-571-0303 S/E F A/P W/L M 169† 99† 1-866-609-5522 I S/W/E R/B F P W/L M/H 349 129 1-866-432-4322 M 109 69 1-800-461-8730 R/B P W E R/B K/F A/P W/L M 139† 105† 1-800-661-2133

403-678-6150 73 C/M 403-609-9949 22 C

W/E R/B K/F A/P W W/E K/F A/P W

230 129 1-866-609-3222 244 159 1-877-771-4653

Inn & Suites Canmore, AB

Winter or summer, we’ll pamper you the Rocky Mountain Way! With a 3 storey waterslide, pool & whirlpool, fitness room, free wireless internet, meeting & banquet facilities & breakfast buffet, the Ramada is perfect when travelling. Enjoy our excellent value, quality and service with every stay. 1402 Bow Valley Trail • 403-609-4656 • 1-888-678-4656 • www.ramadacanmore.com 60

where.ca // banff, Canmore, KananasKis, LaKe Louise

Louise Y Banff•Lake Canmore•Kananaskis canmore & Kananaskis hotels

lodging

llit

ies

In te rn et :W Di irel al- es up s/ /L HiHi ob sp gh by ee Se Ki d os as k on Ra te s$ To ll F re e

s R s es one se r Rm rci ac p pl /Ph oo Exe r s$ e a d Rates are for a basic room, double occupancy. High season is usually t ica B Fir ing l/ te s u d / o ) / o m O Ra n summer, low season is usually spring/fall. Call to confirm. an r/ hirlp n t (s t t e s i t i o oo H o o n R / *Closed for the Winter. ***Closed for the Summer. †Breakfast t g as ra e n e o n d do /W es In tin Se a au included. ††Breakfast & dinner included. §Pets allowed. st tch ir C ol aun ee w Gu S M Re Ki # A Po Lo **Only packages available. ‡ Hostel: price per bed. §The Georgetown Inn, 1101 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-3439 20 C/M R/B F A/P W M/H 226 109 1-800-697-5955 Grande Rockies Resort, 901 Mountain St Holiday Inn Canmore, 1 Silvertip Tr §Inn of the Rockies, 1200 Harvey Heights Rd

403-678-8880 150 C/M I W/E R/B K/F A/P W/L M 209 149 403-609-4422 99 C/M W/E R/B F A/P W/L M/H 229 99 1-888-609-4422 403-675-6669 47 C I S/W/E K/F A W/L H 189 149 n/a

The Lady Macdonald Country Inn, 1201 BVT 403-678-3665 10 C §The Lodges at Canmore, 107 Montane Rd 403-678-9350 56 C/M O §Mt Engadine Lodge, 40 km S of Canmore, off Hwy 742 403-678-4080 9

W/E S

F A/P W M/H 150† 120† 1-800-567-3919 K/F A/P W/L 244 159 1-866-678-9350 F W 430††400†† includes 4 meals

Mountain View Inn, 100 Kananaskis Way 403-678-0992 44 C §Mystic Springs Chalets/Hot Pools, 140 Kananaskis Wy 403-609-0333 40 C/M O Paintbox Lodge, 629 10 St 403-609-0482 5 C/M

W/E

§Radisson Hotel & Conference Ctr, 511 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-3625 164 C/M I Rafter Six Ranch Resort, 81130 Ranche Rd E 403-673-3622 29 O §Ramada Inn & Suites, 1402 Bow Valley Tr 403-609-4656 189 C I

W/E R/B F A/P W/L M/H 179 109 1-800-263-3625 M 199† 149† 1-888-267-2624 W R/B K/F W W/E R F A/P W/L M/H 199† 99† 1-888-678-4656

§Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge, 1711 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-5445 83 §Rundle Mountain Lodge, 1723 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-5322 61 §Rundle Ridge Chalets, 1100 Harvie Heights Rd 403-609-8118 44

C C C

S/W I

§Silver Creek Lodge, 1818 Mountain Ave §Solara Resort & Spa, 187 Kananaskis Wy Stoneridge Mountain Resort, 30 Lincoln Park

C C C

S/W/E R/B K/F A/P W M 250 165 1-877-598-4242 W K/F A/P W M/H 189 159 1-877-778-5617 O W/E K/F A/P W M 259 189 1-877-675-5001

403-678-4242 60 403-609-3600 214 403-675-5000 105

§Stoney Nakoda Resort, Hwy 1 and Hwy 40 403-881-2830 111 C/M I Sunset Resorts Canmore, 109, 1151 Sydney St 403-675-7861 43 C/M §Windtower Lodge & Suites, 160 Kananaskis Way 403-609-6600 103 C/M

A/P W K/F A/P W/H M F P W M

109 69 1-888-849-5445 295 189 1-866-446-9784 210† 159† 1-888-678-6100

K/F A/P W/L M/H 129 K/F P W M 99 K/F W H 89

89 1-800-665-6111 75 1-800-661-1610 89 1-888-659-7101

W/E R/B F A/P W/L M/H 129† 89† 1-888-862-5632 E K/F A/P W/L M 135 95 1-866-609-4475 W/E R K/F P W M/H 109† 99† 1-866-609-6600

LA K E LO U ISE h o t e l s Baker Creek Chalets, Hwy 1A E *§Cathedral Mountain Lodge, Yoho Nat Park *§The Crossing Resort, Icefields Parkway

403-522-3761 35 250-343-6442 31 403-761-7000 66

Deer Lodge, 109 Lake Louise Dr §Emerald Lake Lodge, Yoho Nat Park §The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

W R/B 403-522-3991 71 250-343-6321 85 S/W/E R/B 403-522-3511 554 C/M I S/W/E R/B

*§Glacier View Inn, Columbia Icefields, Hwy 93 780-852-6550 32 Great Divide Lodge, Yoho Nat Park 250-343-6311 26 HI - Lake Louise Alpine Centre, 203 Village Rd 403-522-2202 45

S/E S

S S S

§Lake Louise Inn, 210 Village Rd *Moraine Lake Lodge, 1 Moraine Lake Rd Mountaineer Lodge, 101 Village Rd

403-522-3791 247 S 403-522-3733 33 403-522-3844 78 S/M

*Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, Hwy 93 N *Paradise Lodge & Bungalows, Lake Louise Dr Post Hotel & Spa, 200 Pipestone Rd

403-522-2167 16 403-522-3595 45 S 403-522-3989 97 S/M

S/E

S S

R/B K/F W/L R/B F D/L R/B F P L

R R/B R

265 165 n/a 325† 235† 1-866-619-6442 M 159 90 1-800-837-8103

P W/L M 175 149 1-800-661-1595 P W/L M 348 260 1-800-663-6336 P W/L M/H 399 289 1-800-441-1414 P P

L H 249 139 1-877-442-2623 W 99 89 1-888-682-2212 W/L M/H 44‡ 31‡ 1-866-762-4122

I S/W/E R/B K/F P W/L M/H 169 159 1-800-661-9237 R F W/L 419† 315† 1-877-522-2777 S/W W/L H 199† 129† n/a S

H K/F H P W/L I S/W/E R/B F

M H M

275 205 Call Collect 229 189 n/a 345 285 1-800-661-1586

Charming and delightful Inn with friendly staff and welcoming rustic lobby. Majestic mountain views from every window and balcony. Ideal lodging for those looking to kick back and relax. Centrally located for easy access to everything. Complimentary Continental breakfast.

1719 Bow Valley Tr, Canmore l 1-800-268-0935 l canmorerockymountaininn.com Winter 2013/2014 //

where.ca

Louise Y Banff•Lake Canmore•kananaskis

hot spas

By Kirsten Varsek

Fitness Fun

Alternatives to hotel fitness facilities are local gyms that offer inexpensive day passes. $10 at Banff’s Sally Borden Fitness & Recreation (p 64) buys you access to the mountain-view aquatics area, indoor running track, iPod compatible fitness equipment and new spin studio with big screen virtual rides. For $15 Canmore’s Elevation Place (p 63) lets you splash in the ‘beach-shore’ pool and lazy river, and workout in the Cardio By Sara Samson & Weight Room. Both passes allow you to scale spectacular climbing walls (p 17).

Rapunzel-Worthy Advice Winter weather can wreak havoc on your hair; it can dry out and lose its lustre. to combat this the Willow Stream Spa (p 65) suggests conditioning hair with a hydrating mask, and spritzing locks with Moroccan Oil. limit the amount of time hair is tied up in an elastic to reduce tattered tresses, and get frequent cuts to prevent a drab mane. 62

where.ca // banff, canmore, kananaskis, lake louise

Plunge into one of these pools as a complement to snowy pursuits: • the rimrock resort hotel (p 64): 15 m pool with fairholme range view plus a soothing hot tub in the shape of an “r” (for rimrock, of course). • the fairmont Banff Springs hotel (p 65): European therapeutic mineral pool with skin softening South african salts. alternating hot and cool pool dips encourages circulation and helps clear toxins. • red Earth Spa (p 64): 40°c/104°f hot pool with modern aesthetics is popular before or after spa treatments. • Banff Upper hot Springs (p 64): granddaddy of all Banff pools; the first bathhouse was built in 1886. thermal mineral waters are driven up three km from within the Earth’s crust to an elevation of 1585 m.

PhotoS: ExErciSE, ElEvation PlacE; Banff UPPEr hot SPringS, travEl alBErta

Sensual Soaks

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore•kananaskis fiTness

Fitness & RecReation Bill Warren Training CenTre Olympic-class fitness centre; weights and machines. Drop-in $10. Mon-Fri 8 am-8 pm, Sat to 4 pm, Sun/hol closed. Canmore Nordic Centre, 403678-5759 ext 12. Map 4, 9A Canmore reCreaTion CenTre Gymnastic room, community hall room and ice arenas. 1900 8 Ave, 403-678-1537. Map 4, 5F Douglas Fir resorT WaTersliDe Slides, steam room, whirlpool, kiddie pool. $20, -6 free. Banff: Tunnel Mtn Rd, 403-762-5591. Map 3, 10M elevaTion PlaCe Indoor 25 m pool, leisure pool, lazy river, waterslides, hot tub and steam room (swim only: $8, $6 65-79/18-25, $5 12-17, $4 3-11, -3/80+ free). Climbing walls to 45 ft and fitness centre/classes (full facility drop-in: $15, $12 65-79/1825, $8 12-17, $5 3-11, -3/80+ free). Library, Canmore Art Guild gallery, atrium with performance stage and food services. Canmore: 700 Railway Ave, 403-678-8920. Map 4, 9I

Sauna or Steam? Choose one or the other after pondering these tips from Willow Stream Spa’s (p 65) Kimberley Flatt: • Saunas produce a dry heat, typically from heated rocks. “It’s like sitting on hot sand with the Mexican sun warming you to the core.” • Steam rooms inject water vapour that allows “the body to quickly absorb heat and moisture; it’s like being in a tropical rain forest.” Kimberley suggests combatting winter colds by using an iced facial cloth during your sauna or steam. —Kirsten Varsek

WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff•Lake Louise•Canmore•kananaskis spas

The FenlanDs BanFF reCreaTion CenTre Ice rink arenas, curling sheets, lounge and meeting rooms. Drop-in skating, shinny and curling. Skate rentals. Banff: 100 Norquay Rd, 403-762-1235. Map 3, 17H

mounTain healTh & FiTness CluB Squash, tennis, weights, pool, sauna, hot tubs. 7 am-10:30 pm (pool from 8 am). $10; pool $3.50, ch $1.50. Banff Rocky Mountain Resort, 1029 Banff Ave, 403-762-7464. Map 3, 10M

lake louise sPorT & reCreaTion CenTre Ice rink, basketball, skateboarding, spin, yoga, Pilates, boxing, Crossfit. $5 drop-in. Gym. Training. Mon-Fri 9 am-5 pm. 103 Village Rd, 403-522-2606. Map 2, 21M

rimroCk sPa & FiTness Pool, whirlpools, sauna, steam rooms, squash, weights, machines. 6:30 am-10:30 pm; adults only after 9:30 pm. $10, child swim $3. Banff: 300 Mountain Ave, 403-762-1835. Map 3, 21H

sally BorDen FiTness & reCreaTion Climbing gym, pool, steam rooms, fitness centre, squash, gym. Fitness classes. Training, massage, physical therapy. Mon-Fri 6 am-10 pm, Sat-Sun 7 am-10 pm. $10. Swim (call for hrs) $5, yth/sen $3. Banff: St Julien Rd, 403-762-6450. Map 3, 16K summiT sPa & FiTness aT The DelTa loDge aT kananaskis Machines and weights. 17-m indoor pool, indoor/outdoor whirlpool, steam room, sauna. Spa services. Kananaskis Village, 403-591-6226. Map 1, 8I

Hot spRings

Come relax

BanFF uPPer hoT sPrings Naturally heated springs on Sulphur Mtn. Outdoor pool with soothing, normally 40°C (104°F) waters. Heritage bathhouse, café, gift shop, interpretive exhibits, day spa (403-760-2500) and Mt Rundle view. Swim/historic suit, towel and locker rentals. SunThurs 10 am-10 pm, Fri/Sat 10 am-11 pm. $7.30, 3-17/65+ $6.30. Family/ group rates. 1 Mountain Ave (Banff Transit #1), 403-762-1515. Map 3, 21H raDium hoT sPrings Large outdoor mineral pool (40°C/104°F), cool pool and jetted plunge pool in a canyon setting. Café. Noon-9 pm, Fri-Sat to 10 pm. $6.30, 3-17/65+ $5.40. Hwy 93S, 90 minutes from Banff, 1-800-767-1611. Map 1, 6H

spas & Massage

Radium Hot Springs 250-347-9485

Banff Upper Hot Springs 403-762-1515

Pleiades Massage and Spa Appointments: 403-760-2500

one Wellness & sPa Massage, wraps, facials, manicure, training, Pilates and physiotherapy. Fitness studio, sauna, steam, fireplace lounge. Canmore: Solara Resort, 187 Kananaskis Way, 403-679-7179. Map 4, 11K PleiaDes massage & sPa Massage: therapeutic, relaxation, shiatsu and reflexology. Body Treatment exfoliates, rehydrates and replenishes skin; includes scrub, warm herbal splash, aromatherapy massage and facial. Wrapture includes aromatic steam, gentle massage and wrap. Couples massage. Handmade skin care products. Banff Upper Hot Springs, Mountain Ave, 403-760-2500. Map 3, 21H reD earTh sPa aT BanFF CariBou loDge Luxurious spa with wood and stone accents. Massage from $75: relaxation, hot stone, shiatsu and therapeutic. Classic facials from $145, nails from $69. 30-min services: facial

where.ca // baNff, caNmoRE, kaNaNaskIs, lakE louIsE

$79, mani $49, pedi $59. Wraps, waxing and treatments for couples and men. Use of hot pool and steam room. Skinceuticals and Eminence Organic skin care. Banff: 521 Banff Ave, 403-762-9292. Map 3, 10J rimroCk sPa & FiTness Treatments by registered therapists. Massage: aromatherapy, sport, therapeutic, relaxation, deep tissue, pregnancy, hot stone and couples. Facials, manicures, pedicures, Vichy shower, body scrubs and wraps. Spa packages. Services for men. Fitness facility. Banff: 300 Mountain Ave, 403-762-1835 ext #1. Map 3, 21H

THE SPA TRADITION LIVES ON

The sPa aT The FairmonT ChaTeau lake louise Relaxation, couples, sports, hot stone and aromatherapy massage. Mineral and seaweed baths. Wraps, scrubs, facials, manicures and pedicures. Waxing. Hair salon. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-1545. Map 2, 14C

the spa tradition lives on Indulge in century old spa rituals at the state-of-the-art Willow Stream Spa The old Fairmont Banff Springs. the Indulge in at century spa rituals and experience

summiT sPa & FiTness aT The DelTa loDge aT kananaskis Massage, hot stone, wraps, Caribbean therapy, facials, manicures ($65$195). Waxing. Eucalyptus steam, sauna, whirlpool, pool, gym. Kananaskis Village, 403-591-6226. Map 1, 8I

403-762-1772 | fairmont.com/banffsprings 403-762-1772 | fairmont.com/banffsprings

Willow Stream Spa at The Fairmont Banff Springs.

Reminiscent of the hot springs that beckoned travellers over Reminiscent of the hot springs that beckoned travellers 125 years ago, the pulsating waterfalls, mineral pools and over 125 years ago, the pulsating waterfalls, mineral pools luxurious treatments soothe will your bodyyour andbody soul. and luxuriouswill treatments soothe and soul.

Where_BSH_Spa_S13.indd 1

5/16/2013 1:30:40 PM

TemPle mounTain sPa aT The PosT hoTel 6 massage options. Facials, manicures, pedicures, body wraps, scrubs, polishes. Steam, whirlpool, couples treatment room. Spa packages. Lake Louise: 200 Pipestone Rd, 403-522-3989. Map 2, 20M WilDFloWer massage & esTheTiCs Massage: therapeutic/ sports, cupping, myofascial therapy release, reflexology, aromatherapy, hot rock, reiki and couples from $50. Body scrubs, wraps, facial, manicure, pedicure, waxing and tinting. Packages. Canmore: 2nd fl, 713 Main St, 403-678-4644. Map 4, 20D The WilloW sTream sPa aT The FairmonT BanFF sPrings Luxury resort spa with waterfalls, whirlpools, indoor swimming pool, thermal mineral pool, outdoor heated pool, fireplace lounges, steam and inhalation rooms, saunas, fitness and aerobics rooms, couples room. Body treatments $185-$365; spa packages $195-$715. Banff: Spray Ave, reserve ahead: 403-762-1772. Map 3, 20L WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff hot shops

Perfecting Your Pictures

Whether you wield an iPhone, point-and-shoot or DSLR, a photography lesson with a Banff Photography (p 54) professional will introduce you to scenic spots and hone your composition, lighting and camera proficiency. Call ahead to arrange a convenient time. —Kirsten Varsek

Opulent Outerwear If you want a fashionable (but still warm) alternative to a puffy parka, consider a sumptuous cape from Snowflake (p 67). New offerings feature knit fur and cashmere styles with plaid designs, leather details and fur trims. —Kirsten Varsek

RCMP Regimental Badge Historic Royal Canadian Mounted Police logos on official Sgt. Preston’s Outpost (p 68) items such as pins, mugs, caps and clothing feature the famous buffalo head, the motto Maintiens le Droit (maintain the right), maple leaves representing each Canadian province/territory and the British crown. —Kate Deglow

Delightful Reproduction Austrian Conrad Kain was the first professional guide hired by the Alpine Club of Canada; he led over 60 first ascents. During this time Kain’s favourite book in the Club library was The Animals’ Alpine Club. Published circa 1910, this beautifully illustrated hardcover for children tells of animals that establish an Alpine Club and set out to conquer the peaks. A direct copy of the original book has been produced by the Whyte Museum (p 41) and re-released as an inspiration to those of all ages who love the mountains. Copies are available at the Whyte Museum Shop (p 68). —Lisa Stephens 66

where.ca // banff

Banff map are on pages 124-125 BOOKS & MAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 CAMERA SHOPS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 CHILDREN'S STORE . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 CLOTHING & EYEWEAR. . . . . . . . .67 DEPARTMENT STORE . . . . . . . . . . 68 FOOD STORES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 GALLERIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 GIFTS & SOuVENIRS . . . . . . . . . . . 68 HARDWARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 HEALTH & BEAuTY . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 JEWELLERY/WATCHES . . . . . . . . . 70 SHOPPING MALL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 SKI & BOARD SHOPS. . . . . . . . . . . 70 WESTERN WEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 WINE & SPIRITS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

For more listings/links scan this code or key in where.ca/canadian-rockies

Books & Maps The ViewpoinT Nature and activity guides, souvenir photo books, local histories and bestsellers. Maps. Cards, posters and photos. 201 Banff Ave, 403-762-0405. Map 3, 14O

CaMera shops Banff phoTography foTo Source Cameras: Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Panasonic, Olympus, Fuji and Sony. Photofinishing, battery charging and memory cards. Photo transfers to CD, shirts and gifts. Photographer for hire. Fine art. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-2413 Map 3, 20L; 101 Banff Ave, 403-762-3562 Map 3, 17O.

Children's store ScallywagS Banff’s only one-stop shopping store for kids. Stylish clothing for infants to size 12, including shoes, boots, outerwear and accessories. Toys, books, games and puzzles for all ages, featuring Melissa and Doug, Lego, Playmobil, John Deere, Schleich, Lamaze, Schylling and more. Brewster Mountain Lodge, 208 Caribou St, 403-762-4882. Map 3, 15N

explore rockieS Souvenir clothing with creative logos of the Canadian Rockies and local attractions. T-shirts, hoodies and polo shirts. Travel games, souvenirs, books, DVDs and Paul Zizka photography. Activity booking desk. 130 Banff Ave (also Banff International Hotel, 333 Banff Ave), 1-800-764-6934. Map 3, 15O helly hanSen Performance outdoor apparel for 135+ years: outerwear, sportswear, baselayers, midlayers and footwear. Outfitters for climbing, running and skiing/boarding plus casual styles. Technical Odin Collection. H2 Flow body heat regulating jackets. Kid’s styles. Helly Hansen bags, Dakine and Osprey packs, Smith eyewear and helmets, Nikwax waterproofing/cleaning agents, Hydro Flask insulated bottles. 201 Banff Ave, 403-760-8282. Map 3, 15O JacqueS carTier cloThier World’s finest fibres. Hand-knit sweaters and coats. Exclusive yarns include qiviuk Arctic muskox down (softer than cashmere), alpaca, suri alpaca, vicuña and guanaco. Bison leather collection. Jewellery. 131 Banff Ave, 403-762-5445. Map 3, 16O The norTh face Canadian Rockies only signature The North Face store. 4500 sq ft of apparel, footwear and gear. Technical outerwear, base layers, activity specific products (hiking, climbing, running, biking, yoga, skiing) and casual wear. Tents, backpacks and sleeping bags. Products for infants, children and youth. 124 Banff Ave, 403-762-0775. Map 3, 14P open counTry Ladies' and men's casual wear, denim, outerwear, footwear, swimwear, accessories. Joseph Ribkoff, Desigual, Emu, NYDJ, Bugatti, Napapijri, Timberland. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-760-3991. Map 3, 20L

Clothing & eyewear

paTagonia World renowned Patagonia clothing for those who embrace an outdoor lifestyle, including styles for travel, climbing, hiking, yoga, running and snow sports. Baselayers, fleece, down jackets, breathable/ waterproof shells, casual wear, footwear, accessories. Items from organic fibres and recycled materials. Travel bags, books and kid’s section. 94 Banff Ave, 403-985-5588. Map 3, 18P

Boulder MenSwear Shirts, pants, jackets, suits, sweaters, coats, shoes. Tux rentals. Cascade Shops, 317 Banff Ave, 403-760-2800. Map 3, 13O

qiViuk Traditional and fashion designs: sweaters, coats and accessories of softer-than-cashmere qiviuk

banff shops

Going Downhill Tobogganing is an iconic Canadian mix of snow, slope, sliding device and courage. Home Hardware (p 70) sells: • Whacky Carpets (from $5.70): lightweight; roll up easily. • Runner Snow Sled ($14): light moulded plastic; grooved bottom. • Wood Toboggan (from $65): traditional curved front; optional cushion. • Snow Rod Ride-On Sled ($87, shown): foot lever for speeds; butterfly racing steering wheel for manoeuvrability. —Sara Samson from Arctic muskox down, world’s rarest natural fibre. Bags, wallets, purses and gloves. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-4460. Map 3, 20L rooTS canada Canadian-made leather boots, shoes and bags. Heavy cotton sweats and Ts; some with Banff logos. Yoga line. Accessories. 227 Banff Ave, 403-762-9434. Map 3, 14O ShadeS on cariBou Sunglasses by Ray Ban, Serengeti, Smith, Maui Jim, Arnette, Vuarnet, Versace, Spy, Revo, Burberry, Gucci, Oakley. Clipon, fit-over and kid’s styles. Repairs and fittings. Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403-762-8991. Map 3, 14O Snowflake “Simply the best in great Canadian design.” Furs, leathers, boots and accessories. Wolfie and Nobel furs, Paula Lishman and Il Fait Froid fur knits, Lyn Leathers and Gimpex shearlings. Fur muff/purses, stylish hats and gloves, Pajar boots. Shop online. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-8770 Map 3, 20L; 215 Banff Ave, 403-762-3633 Map 3, 14O WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff shops

w. ThoMSon BouTique Golf wear and accessories, resort wear and gifts. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403760-6386. Map 3, 20L weSTrock Jean co Mavi, Silver, Junk Food, Puma, Iron Fist, American Apparel, Penguin, Obey, Gentle Fawn, Only, Ben Sherman, Dex, Levis—latest casual fashions for men and women. Big selection of jeans complemented by seasonal fashions and accessories. Lower lvl, Cascade Shops, 317 Banff Ave, 403-762-5868. Map 3, 13O

departMent store hudSon’S Bay Canada’s oldest retailer, est. 1670. Department store mix offers Canadiana (including famous Hudson’s Bay blankets), fashions, cosmetics, jewellery, luggage and bedding. Banff's biggest store with the largest selection of items. 125 Banff Ave, 403-762-5525. Map 3, 16O

Multistripe Point Blanket 100% woven wool, king 8 points, 100” x 108” 125 Banff Ave • 403.762.5525 • TheBay.ca

rentalS

Skis • Snowboards • XC Snowshoes • Skates

Food stores chocolaTerie Bernard calleBauT Cococo Chocolatiers handcraft chocolate treats at their Calgary facility. 300 items from 80 recipes; natural ingredients with no artificial preservatives. Copper foil boxes for an elegant presentation. Harmony Lane, 111 Banff Ave, 403-762-4106. Map 3, 16O The fudgery Fudge, bear paws, caramel corn, peanut brittle; made while you watch. Sundance Mall, 215 Banff Ave, 403-762-3003. Map 3, 14O neSTerS MarkeT Supermarket with bakery, deli, produce and meat departments. Free delivery Mon/Fri. Ice. Cash machine. 8 am-11 pm. 122 Bear St, 403-762-3663. Map 3, 16N nighT owl conVenience STore Pizza slices, snacks, drinks, cigarettes, cigars and ATM. 9 am-3 am. 211 Banff Ave, 403-762-8266. Map 3, 14O one STop Shop Snack foods, sandwiches, dairy and fruit. Soft ice cream, fruit smoothies and coffee. Cosmetics, souvenirs, cards, magazines, books. 115 Banff Ave, 403762-4412. Map 3, 16O

At The Fairmont Banff Springs and The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise retail & rentals 403-762-2500

ChateauMountainSports.com 68

where.ca // baNff

Safeway Supermarket with pharmacy, floral, bakery, deli, produce, dairy and meats. Starbucks. 8 am-11 pm. 318 Marten St (Banff Ave at Elk St), 403-762-5329. Map 3, 12O

galleries

See Museums & Galleries section p 42.

giFts & souvenirs Banff gondola upper and lower terminal shops sell souvenir shirts, sweaters, jackets and gifts. Mountain Ave, 1-800-760-6934. Map 3, 21J Buffalo naTionS luxTon MuSeuM Shop Fort-like museum. Native crafts: carvings, jewellery, replica weapons, ceremonial objects and clothing. Winter 11 am-5 pm. 1 Birch Ave, 403-762-2388. Map 3, 20N The canadian pacific STore Exclusive china, leather goods, gifts and CP posters. Fairmont amenities: bedding, robes, tea and Le Labo bath products. The Fairmont Banff Springs, lobby lvl, 403-760-6396. Map 3, 20L cowS Fun store filled with original cow-theme T-shirts, sweats and souvenirs. Premium ice cream, served in handmade waffle cones; ‘Canada’s Best’ says Reader’s Digest. 134 Banff Ave, 403-760-3493. Map 3, 16P cT STyle “Fun with accessories.” Funky hats and toques, tights, wraps, scarves, jewellery and eyewear. 110 Banff Ave, 403-762-3554. Map 3, 17P The fairMonT STore The hotel’s signature gift store. Banff Springs logo items, fashions, books and convenience items. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-760-6383. Map 3, 20L ok gifT Shop Canadian furs, leathers, Native art, plush toys, souvenir shirts, bags, jewellery, books and postcards. Fruits & Passion, Ice watches and Hello Kitty. Canadian chocolates, salmon, maple syrup. 209 Banff Ave, 403-762-3133. Map 3, 14O pika Village Canadian products. Maple syrup, smoked salmon and icewine chocolates. Native carvings and jade figurines. Souvenir shirts. Canadian jewellery (including ammolite), bags, Roots accessories and bath items. Reasonable prices. 221 Banff Ave, 403-760-2622. Map 3, 14O SgT. preSTon’S ouTpoST RCMP logo items; sales support community projects. Clothing, hats, accessories, pins. Clock Tower Mall, 108 Banff Ave, 403-762-4652. Map 3, 17P whyTe MuSeuM Shop Changing Art Shows & Sales. Works by local artists: paintings, bronze and clay sculptures, pottery and photography. Historic Canadian Rockies photos

banff’s premiere destination for

SHOPPING & EATING newly refreshed

Great Place to Shop Banff’s Only Food Court Canadian Ski Museum West

Fashion - Ladies, Mens & Specialty Items Banking Services

Drug Store & Pharmacy

Cameras & Photofinishing Liquor Store

•

Books

Western Wear

Office Supplies

Laundry Services

Downtown Banff, 317 Banff Ave Banff Ave & Wolf St, 403-762-8484

•

Electronics-Computers-Telephones •

Hair Salon

Specialty Coffee Bar

Full Service Restaurant Ski Heritage Exhibits

•

Food Court

banff shops

BAN FF

DiNiiNg E i BANFF • LAKE LOUIS gu iDe

MAP

2013/14

2012/13

from the archives. Books, stationery, cards and posters. Locally handcrafted jewellery including heritage trading beads. Browse online. 111 Bear St, 403-762-2291 ext 340. Map 3, 16N wild aBouT naTure Minerals, fossils, plush wildlife. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-2962. Map 3, 20L

hardware

A tempting selection of BANFF’s favourite restaur ants

TOWNSITE banffdinin gguide.co m

BANFF LAKE LOUISE VILLAGE BANFF NATIONAL PARK CANADIAN ROCKIES

widely availaBle In-depth coverage • Free Pick up your copy today banffdiningguide.com

Ride! Sliders, sporting goods, adapters, appliances, auto accessories, & more... A great selection at reasonable prices

223 Bear Street • 403-762-2080

Specialty wine room Best selection, service & price Delivery service Tastings • Gifts Daily 10 am-11 pm Downstairs, 302 Caribou St East of Banff Ave • 403-762-3465 70

where.ca // baNff

hoMe hardware Electrical and auto supplies, housewares, locks, dog leashes, paint, plumbing supplies. Toboggans, sliders, hockey accessories and snow shovels. Keys cut. 223 Bear St, 403-762-2080. Map 3, 14N

health & Beauty Banff’S rexall drug STore Banff’s largest drug store. Remedies, cosmetics, skin care, bath products, sun/reading glasses, magazines, stationery, toys, cards, stamps. Wheelchair rentals. Supports and braces. Photo kiosks. Cascade Shops, 317 Banff Ave, 403-762-2245. Map 3, 13O gourlay’S pharMacy Complete drug store. Vitamins, homeopathic remedies and skin products. Sports rehabilitation supports, braces, compression stockings. Rentals: wheelchairs, crutches, canes, walkers, bath/ shower seats. Bear Street Mall, 220 Bear St, 403-762-2516. Map 3, 14G perfecT iMage STudio Tattoos, piercings, wall art and jewellery. 226 Bear St, 403-762-8882. Map 3, 14N

Jewellery/watChes aMMoliTe in The rockieS Displays on the origins and processing of colourful Alberta ammolite gemstones; guided tour on request. Ammonite fossils, loose stones and jewellery. Canadian diamonds. unique dinosaur skulls. Clock Tower Mall, 108 Banff Ave, 403-762-4698. Map 3, 17P caSTle JewelS A beautiful collection of fine designer jewellery with ammolite, pearls and gemstones. The Fairmont Banff Springs, Lobby Level, 403-760-6381. Map 3, 20L freya’S Jewellery & currency exchange Canadian collectibles and silver jewellery. Crack-your-owngeode rock to expose the mineral centre. Victorinox Swiss Army travel gear, watches, pocket knives, cutlery, apparel. Freya’s Native Art museumquality artifacts (by appt). 108 Banff Ave, 403-762-4652. Map 3, 17P

STone’S Jewellery, park aVenue Mall Fine handmade jewellery in 18k gold set with alexandrite, opal cats eye, sapphire, tsavorite, African amethyst, black opal, tourmaline, Burmese peridot, South Sea pearls, starrubies. Winter 11 am-7 pm. 211 Banff Ave, 403-762-5588. Map 3, 14O STone’S Jewellery, riMrock reSorT hoTel Rare gemstones. Fine jewellery, handmade in 18k gold. Gemstone carvings. Winter 5-9 pm, Sun 9 am-1 pm. 300 Mountain Ave, 403-762-4808. Map 3, 21H STraTTon’S Jewellery Owned and operated by David Stratton; Canadian, international and private label designs in all prices. Canadian diamonds (like Sirius Star), Simon G rings, 1000 charms (like Thomas Sabo), gold earrings and chains. Wedding and diamond anniversary bands. Seiko, Reactor and Storm of London watches. Watch batteries and minor repairs. Popular with locals. 202 Banff Ave, 403-762-4367. Map 3, 15P TouchSToneS Canadian diamond, ammolite, silver and gold jewellery by Korite, Aurora, Chamilia, Ice925. Jade carvings. Swarovski crystal. 117 Banff Ave, 403-762-3938. Map 3, 16O

shopping Mall caScade ShopS Banff’s biggest indoor shopping centre with multi-storey domed atrium: stores, restaurant, food court and services on 4 levels. Fashions, cameras, photofinishing, pharmacy, books, electronics, bath items and more. Bank and laundry. Canadian Ski Museum West displays. 317 Banff Ave at Wolf St, Map 3, 13O

ski & Board shops Banff adVenTureS Official Calgary Flames and NHL hockey jerseys, t-shirts, hoodies, caps and pucks. Rentals: snowshoes $15, ice cleats $15, skates $15, x-country skis $20, winter boots $10. Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-762-4554. Map 3, 13O chaTeau MounTain SporTS Rentals: Rossignol ski pkgs $40-$53 (kids $25), snowboards $39 (kids $23), x-c $25, helmets, skates, hockey sticks/pucks, snowshoes and boots (returns to Banff or Lake Louise store). Half/multi-day discounts. Clothing sales: Technical and ski outerwear, mountain lifestyle styles, sweaters, fleece, Gore-Tex jackets, footwear, accessories. Oakley, Smith,

Dale of Norway, Sorel, The North Face, Icebreaker, Merrell, Canada Goose and Tilley. The Fairmont Banff Springs (Convention Ctr), 405 Spray Ave, 403-762-2500. Map 3, 20L Monod SporTS Skis, climbing gear, technical and lifestyle clothing (including skiwear), and footwear. Arc’teryx, Spyder, Black Diamond, Rossignol, Armada, Völkl, Salomon. 129 Banff Ave, 403-762-4571. Map 3, 16O SnowTipS SporTS renTal Skis/ boards (Völkl, Blizzard, Head, K2), x-c (classic, skate, touring, telemark), backcountry (skis, split boards), child backpacks, winter strollers, snowshoes, skates, toboggans, ice walk crampons, WASP action cameras. Ski/ hockey accessory sales. Skate sharpening. Ski/board repairs. 7 am-9 pm. 225 Bear St, 403-762-8177. Map 3 , 7H ulTiMaTe Ski & ride Ski and board rentals (Dynastar, Salomon, Nordica, Head, Kastle): pkgs $28-$45; $19 kids; ski suits $33 (downtown store); multi-day rates. Free hotel delivery/ pick-up. Demos. X-c ski, snowshoe and skate rentals. Downtown store sells skis and clothing (Descente, DNA, Salomon, Scott). The Tune Shop drop-offs. Inns of Banff, 600 Banff Ave, 403-760-8521 Map 3, 19K; 206 Banff Ave, 403-762-0547 Map 3, 12O

Simply The The Best Best In In Great GreatCanadian CanadianDesign Design Banff BanffSprings SpringsHotel Hotel ||405 405 Spray Spray Ave Ave || 403-762-8770 403-762-8770 Sundance Sundance Mall Mall ||215 215 Banff Banff Ave Ave ||403-762-3633 403-762-3633

www.snowflakecanada.com www.snowflakecanada.com

happy children’s clothing & toys

western wear The Trail rider Cowboy boots, hats, belts, shirts, vests, western accessories and souvenirs. Stetson, Boulet, Panhandle Slim apparel and Montana silver. Holiday on Horseback sleigh ride reservations. 132 Banff Ave, 403-762-4551. Map 3, 16P

wine & spirits auThenTically local wineS of canada Ontario, BC and international wines. Tastings. Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-760-6391. Map 3, 20L Banff wine STore Knowledgeable staff introduce new labels for all budgets from over a dozen countries. Canadian VQA wines (including icewines). Temperature controlled specialty room. Chilled wines. Gifts. Tastings. Delivery. 10 am-11 pm. Downstairs, 302 Caribou St (E of Banff Ave), 403-762-3465. Map 3, 15P Voyager inn liquor STore Cold beer, wine, spirits, fresh limes/lemons, mix. Low prices. Noon-10 pm. 555 Banff Ave, 403-760-7791. Map 3, 6K

a special place for Grandma!

Infants to 12 years old 208 Caribou Street

403-762-4882

Cascade Shops, Lower Level 317 Banff Avenue 403-762-5868 WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

canmore hot shops

Noticeable Knits With colourful offerings for your toque projects, Knit & Caboodle Yarn Shop (p 73) has got your crown exquisitely covered. Owner Kathy Seifert notes that her unique yarns are hand crafted and dyed by fibre artists, so each hat will be a singular creation. There are Vancouver SweetGeorgia Yarns, fair-trade Manos de Uruguay and Canmore’s own TwoJuniper Yarns. —Kirsten Varsek

Wrapped in History

Sweets Worth Savouring

Ski for Fitness For a comprehensive, full-body workout try skate skiing. Jesse at Sports Experts (p 76) is an enthusiast: “If you can ice skate, you can probably skate ski,” says Jesse who notes that both sports utilize ‘push and glide’ motions. Jesse (and his sales floor colleague Craig) offer Salomon and Fischer gear and recommend the flat groomed skate skiing trails of the Canmore Nordic Centre (p 48). Shopping take you past sundown? The Centre’s tracks are lit at night, so you can break in your new skate skis after dark. —Kirsten Varsek 72

where.ca // canmore

Le Chocolatier’s (p 73) delectable Belgian chocolate truffles are handcrafted over three days but ‘disappear’ in a flash. On the other hand, their chewy Beaver Dam chocolate and caramel pretzels can only be savoured slowly. —Kirsten Varsek

PHOTOS: TWOJuNIPEr YArNS; BLANKET, WOOLrICH; SKIING, FISCHEr; BEAVEr DAMS, LE CHOCOLATIEr

Wild Goose Trading (p 73) is Canmore’s purveyor of Woolrich Original Outdoor Clothing and blankets that have provided warmth and rugged good looks since their Pennsylvania woollens mill opened in 1830. Woolrich Canada president Jennifer Pah notes that her heirloom blankets “refuse to wear out; one in our house was acquired 62 years ago.” Indeed, Woolrich blankets with vintage patterns can be spotted in films that strive to be historically authentic such as American Civil War epic Gettysburg, Cold Mountain and The Horse Whisperer. —Jack Wennot

Maps are on pages 122 and 126-127. BOOKS & MAPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 CLOTHING & EYEWEAR. . . . . . . . .73 DOG BOUTIQUE/PETS . . . . . . . . . .73 FABRICS/QUILTS/YARN . . . . . . . . .73 FOOD & DRUG STORES . . . . . . . . .73 GALLERIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 GIFTS & SOUVENIRS . . . . . . . . . . . .74 HARDWARE & HOME. . . . . . . . . . .74 JEWELLERY/WATCHES . . . . . . . . . .75 SKI & BOARD SHOPS. . . . . . . . . . . .75 TOYS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 WINE & SPIRITS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76

Denim. Rosie jewellery. 101, 721 Main St, 403-678-6938. Map 4, 20D shades on CariBou Sunglasses by Ray Ban, Serengeti, Smith, Maui Jim, Versace, Adidas, Julbo, Spy, D&G, Gucci, Ralph Lauren and Oakley. All prices—100s of styles. Goggles. Clip-on and fit-over sunglasses. Repairs and fittings. 112, 737 7 Ave, 403-678-3344. Map 4, 20C shoes t’ Boot Footwear for men and women. Fly London, Naot, Joseph Seibel, Keen, Hush Puppies, Hispanitas, Art, Alegria, Dansko, Mephisto, Timberland, Sorel, Reiker, Bogs. Italian leather bags, socks and tights. 713 Main St, 403-675-0017. Map 4, 20E valhalla Pure outfitters Outdoor clothing, footwear and gear. Merrell, Mountain Hardwear, Marmot, Patagonia, Arc’teryx, Icebreaker, The North Face, Prana, Rab, Black Diamond and Lolë. 726 Main St, 403-678-5610. Map 4, 20D

For more listings/links scan this code or key in where.ca/canadian-rockies

Books & Maps Cafe Books Nostalgic, comfortable atmosphere with passionate, knowledgeable staff. Escape to a world of adventure and imagination. Fiction, non-fiction, local guides and souvenir books. Maps, cards and postcards. Canadian and local crafts, art and jewellery. Author events. 100, 826 Main St, 403-678-0908. Map 4, 20B

Clothing & EyEwEar Boulder Menswear Stylish shirts pants, jackets, suits, sweaters, belts, ties and shoes. Tux rentals. 802 Main St, 403-678-2828. Map 4, 20C eMBody aCtivewear Yoga and Pilates clothing and accessories. 830 Main St, 403-678-6765. Map 4, 20B

PHOTO: PATRICIA ORIGINALS

GlaCier’s edGe Clothing for active kids sizes 0-16. Point Zero, Mexx, Deux Par Deux, Columbia, Merrell, Spyder. Footwear. Unique gifts. 737 Main St, 403-678-4779. Map 4, 20D indiGo Bay Casual apparel. Velvet, Dex, Baily 44, Nougat, Free People. Silver jewellery, bags, shoes. 8, 801 Main St, 403-678-8808. Map 4, 20B Just Be Casual clothing for those with an active attitude. Part Two, Mexx, Sandwich and Paige Premium

canmore shops

vida fashion Affordable, fashionforward couture for him, her and home. Japrag, Rock Revival, Tru Lux, Carelli, Affliction and Desigual. 826 Main St, 403-678-5353. Map 4, 20B w.a.n.t. Acronym for Wrists, Ankles, Necks, Toes. Accessories with a vintage feel, most handmade in Canada. Hats, jewellery, bags, gloves, scarfs, ladies casual fashions, cards, soaps and fragrances. 737 Main St, 403-678-6116. Map 4, 20C wild Goose tradinG Rugged Woolrich outdoor wear for all seasons: outerwear, sweaters, pants, shirts and accessories XS to XXL plus famous blankets. FDJ French Dressing Jeans and tops: a great fit for every woman. Pure handmade knits. Mountain khakis for men. Manitobah Mukluks. Barnwood gifts. 102, 820 Main St, 403-678-3566. Map 4, 20B

Unique Finds Each time I wander into W.A.N.T. (left) my eyes dart around in anticipation of finding the perfect accouterment to complement my individualized fashion sense. Will it be a retro styled dress, statement scarf, colourful purse, sleek gloves or flirty hat? It’s hard to know, because items from small-scale Canadian designers change frequently. But one thing is certain; I want to come back again and again. —Lisa Stephens FaBriCs/quilts/yarn knit & CaBoodle yarn shoP Designer yarns from Malabrigo, Cascade, Manos del Uruguay, SweetGeorgia, Diamond Luxury Collection, Illimani, Katia, TwoJuniper and more. Unique local hand-dyed yarns. Accessories and books. Gifts for knitters. 717 9 St, 403-609-5582. Map 4, 19D the suGar Pine Co Award-winning quilting shop. 8000 designer cotton fabrics; 1000 batiks. Quilting kits, knitting yarns, souvenirs and gifts. Featured in Quilt Sampler Magazine. Host of quilting and fibre art workshops. Open daily. 737 10 St, 403-678-9603. Map 4, 19C

Dog BoutiquE/pEts

FooD & Drug storEs

adventure doG outfitters Products for dogs: leashes, collars, booties, climbing and pulling harnesses, packs and travel/camping gear. Best friend attire by The North Face. Native crafts, dog sledding gear, skijoring sets, and mushing hats and mitts. Plush husky puppies and sled dog photos. Mushing courses. Authentic Snowy Owl gear and souvenirs. 109, 829 - 10 St, 403-6786949 or 1-888-311-6874. Map 4, 19B

Gourlay’s PharMaCy Complete drug store. Vitamins, homeopathic remedies and skin products. Sports rehabilitation supports/braces. Custom fitted compression stockings. Rentals: wheelchairs, crutches, canes, walkers and bath/shower seats. 1151 Sidney St, 403-678-5288. Map 4, 8J le ChoColatier Handcrafted Belgium chocolate treats; watch through windows. Truffles, moulded bonbons, WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

canmore shops

bars and seasonal novelties. Samples. Tours with 24-hr notice. 701 Benchlands Tr, 403-679-3351. Map 4, 9N

safeway Supermarket with floral dept, bakery, deli, produce, dairy and meats. Starbucks. 8 am-11 pm. Pharmacy 9 am-9 pm, Sat 9 am-6 pm, Sun 10 am-6 pm. 1200 Railway Ave, 403-609-2955. Map 4, 8G

the Market at three sisters Convenience items and specialty foods like gluten-free items. Bistro with espresso bar. 102, 75 Dyrgas Gate, 403-675-3006. Map 4, 19O rustiCana GroCery 600 magazine titles, groceries, sandwiches, snacks, coffee, toiletries, cigars, cigarettes. Lottery centre, Western Union agency. Daily 6 am-mid. 2, 801 Main St, 403-678-4465. Map 4, 20C

shoPPers druG Mart Prescriptions, natural remedies, toys, seasonal gifts, cards, magazines, snacks, cosmetics, fragrances, skin care. 933 Railway Ave, 403-678-8750. Map 4, 8G sCooPin’ Moose 20+ ice cream flavours. Homemade waffle cones and sundaes. Sweet and savoury

Art & Jewellery i n

C a n m o r e

crêpes. Gluten-free options. 722 Main St, 403-621-1336. Map 4, 20D soBeys CanMore CrossinG Supermarket with produce, fish, meat, deli, bakery, photofinishing and post office. 7 am-11 pm. Pharmacy 9 am9 pm, Sat-Sun to 5 pm. 950 Railway Ave, 403-678-6326. Map 4, 8H valBella’s deli, Bakery & Cafe “European classics meet Canadian favourites.” House-made hams, artisan sausages and charcuterie. Fresh baked breads, homemade soups and sandwiches, and pan-ready meals. Café. Closed Sun/hol. 104 Elk Run Blvd, 403-678-9989. Map 4, 13O

gallEriEs

See Museums & Galleries section p 43.

giFts & souvEnirs CanMore MuseuM & GeosCienCe Centre Gift shoP Fossils, rocks, books, edu-toys, local art. Noon-5 pm, Sat-Sun 11 am-5 pm. 902B 7 Ave, 403-678-2462. Map 4, 19C harvest Moon aCoustiCs Guitar, banjo and mandolin sales, lessons and repairs. 722 Main St, 403-678-0023. Map 4, 20D roCky Mountain soaP Co Natural soap, skin care, body and bath products handmade in Canmore. 820 Main St, 403-678-9873. Map 4, 20B

Custom Framing • Art Supplies Gifts, Art & Antique Postcards

Sunny Raven Gallery

105 Bow Meadows Cres • 403-678-6113 102 Bow Meadows Cres • 403-678-6131 rudipeetgoldsmith.ca 1-866-678-6113 • sunnyraven.com

Canadian Ammolite Gemstones Produced on-site direct from our mine

Ammonite Factory 101-106 Bow Meadows Cres • 403-678-1786 ammonite-factory.com

sPirit of the earth Crystals, rocks, gems, jewellery, smudges, candles, books, cards, home decor. 630 Main St, 403-609-4456. Map 4, 20E the tin Box “Go-to shop for funky gifts.” Eclectic home decor: plates, candle holders, vases and picture frames. “Best place to buy jewellery” say Rocky Mountain Outlook readers three years in a row: sterling silver classics to trendy diva wear. Cheeky fridge magnets. Colourful socks, scarves and bags. Thyme body care items. 3000+ humorous cards. 837 Main St, 403-678-9666. Map 4, 20B wildhorse Gifts First Nation art, crafts, jewellery. Logo apparel, Casino items, magazines, snacks, travel items and cards. Stoney Nakoda Resort & Casino, Hwy 1 at Hwy 40 E of Canmore, 1-888-862-5632. Map 1, 8I

harDwarE & hoME Canadian tire Sports, hardware, tools, paint, storage, luggage, house74

where.ca // caNmoRE

wares, cookware, small appliances and seasonal products. Full automotive service and repairs. 1110 Gateway Ave, 403-678-3295. Map 4, 8H Great Canadian dollar store Affordable household items, electronics and accessories, clothing, cards, stationery, party supplies, toiletries, toys and more. 733 Main St, 403-609-2560. Map 4, 20B

A Perfect Fit for

Every

Silhouette

stonewaters hoMe eleMents Furniture and home decor that reflects a mountain lifestyle. 638 Main St, 403-609-4477. Map 4, 20E

JEwEllEry/watChEs aMMonite faCtory & showrooM Colourful ammolite gemstone production from Alberta mined fossils. Loose stones and custom jewellery designed and made on-site. Factory tours Mon-Sat 10 am, 11 am and noon ($5 +GST). 101, 106 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-1786. Map 4, 14P rudi Peet, GoldsMith Art inspired by nature. Contemporary, fluid, award winning designs from 18k gold, silver and gems from around the world including Canadian diamonds. Rings reflect the relationship’s significance. Junghans, Max Bill and St Moritz watches. 10, 102 Bow Meadows Cres, 403-678-6131. Map 4, 13P stratton’s Jewellery Owned and operated by David Stratton who showcases Canadian, international and private label designs in all prices. Canadian diamonds, Simon G rings, 1000 charms (including Thomas Sabo), gold earrings and chains. Wedding and diamond anniversary bands. Seiko, Reactor and Storm of London watches. Watch batteries and minor repairs. Popular with locals. 802 Main St, 403-678-9999. Map 4, 20C

ski & BoarD shops GearuP Mountain sPort rentals Rossignol ski pkgs ($30-$44) and boards ($34). Telemark $25; backcountry $47; x-c $20. Snowshoes, ice climbing and mountaineering gear. Multi-day rates. ‘GearUp’ the day before. Tunes/repairs. 1302 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-1636. Map 4, 8I kananaskis outfitters Performance and lifestyle clothing, winter boot and toboggan sales; Patagonia, Kuhl, Salomon, Mammut. Rentals: waxable and waxless x-c skis, pulk, snowshoes, skates. Guided snowshoe

Wild Goose TradinG

102 - 820 Main Street Canmore • 403.678.3566

Canmore’s Best Recreational Gear

as voted by Canmore Leader readers

Ski & Snowboard Rentals Standard to high performance from $24/day

Gear & Clothing Sales Large selection of outerwear Ski, snowboard & hockey gear Footwear & fashions

Tunes & Repairs

Guaranteed overnight ski/snowboard service Boot fitting & skate sharpening

1080 Railway Ave 403-609-3030

Mon-Sat 8 am - 9 pm Sun 8 am - 7 pm mid Dec - mid Apr canmoreskirentals.com facebook.com/sportsexpertscanmore WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

canmore shops

One of North America’s

Top Ten Quilt Shops tours and x-c ski lessons. Kananaskis Village, 403-591-7000. Map 1, 8I outside Bike & ski Equipment sales and service from experienced staff. Atomic skis and boots, Smith eyewear and helmets, Rossingnol x-c skis, Hestra gloves. 110, 1169 Railway Ave, 403-675-7722. Map 4, 8H

“Best place to buy jewellery” Voted by Rocky Mountain Outlook newspaper readers

gifts • decor • housewares body care • cards

837 Main Street 403-678-9666 • thetinbox.ca

The Funnest Toy Shop in the Rockies!

sPorts exPerts “Canmore’s best sporting goods store,” Canmore Leader. For mountain lifestyles and adventures: downhill/x-c ski (and other sport) gear, clothing and footwear. The North Face, Rossignol, Salomon, Völkl, Burton Quiksilver, Roxy. Ski/ board rentals $24-$44, kids $17, multi-day rates and try-before-youbuy programs. Helmet rentals $5. X-c ski rental pkgs: classic from $20, skate from $25. Bootfitting, tunes, repairs, skate sharpening. 100, 1080 Railway Ave, 403-609-3030. Map 4, 8H trail sPorts X-c ski rentals, lessons, sales and service. Clothing, wax and sunglasses. Canmore Nordic Centre, 403-678-6764. Map 4, 9A

toys hi Jinx toy shoP “Funnest toy shop in the Rockies!” 1000s of toys and games: Playmobil, Calico Critters, Corolle dolls, Lego, Schleich and more. Puzzles, board games, educational/ science toys, crafts and puppets. 712B Main St, 403-678-2068. Map 4, 20D

The Sugar Pine Company 7th Ave & 10th St, Canmore 403-678-9603 www.thesugarpine.com

Open 7 Days a Week & Evenings 10% Off Cotton Fabrics with This Ad

Expires June 30, 2 015. Some restrictions apply.

shop

where.ca/canadianrockies

YARN SHOP

winE & spirits Cellar door Boutique wine shop. 100 wines under $20, plus premium selections; case discounts. Spirits and craft beer. Free tastings; in-store functions. 701 Benchlands Tr (by Iron Goat pub), 403-675-1100. Map 4, 10N liquor Point Many imported beers, plus local and domestic brands. Wine and spirits. Walk-in cold room. Good prices include GST and deposit; regular specials. 10 am-mid. 1702 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-5775. Map 4, 6G safeway liquor store Cold beer, wines, spirits and liqueurs. 10 am-11 pm. 1200 Railway Ave, 403-609-4655. Map 4, 8G

712B Main Street 403-678-2068 • hijinx.ca 76

where.ca // ,caNmoRE

soBeys sPirits, wine & Cold Beer Premium items, special orders, case discounts. Regular tastings, weekly specials. Event planning and permits. 10 am-11 pm, Fri-Sat to mid, Sun to 10 pm. 1040 Railway Ave, 403-609-6636. Map 4, 8H

Knit & Caboodle Yarn Shop #105, 717 – 9th Street 403-609-5582 www.knitandcaboodle.ca

Lose Yourself in the Stories New fiction & non-fiction Local books & hiking guides

Locally owned & proudly independent

826 Main St l cafebooks.ca l 403-678-0908

Y Laggan Bakery’s (p 98) flavourful health cookie ($2.50) is a chewy yet crunchy combination of oats, bran, nuts, seeds, sultanas, yogurt, honey and more. “Pick-up yours in the morning because on busy days they can be gone by noon,” advises server Marek Willemsen. —JN Art of MAn GAllery Canadian bronze, jade and Inuit soapstone sculptures, Native masks, landscape paintings. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-3684. Map 2, 14C BAnff PhotoGrAPhy Cameras: Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Panasonic, Fuji, Sony. Memory cards. Photofinishing. Photo transfers to CD, shirts, cards, gifts. Photographer for hire. Matted landscape photos. Fairmont Chateau Lk Louise, 403-522-3653. Map 2, 14C BeAr huG Children’s clothing and accessories. Sleepwear and souvenir shirts. Plush toys. Lobby, Fairmont Chateau, 403-522-3508. Map 2, 14C Bow river trAdinG Co Lake Louise logo apparel. Plush and toys. Glassware, china and souvenir plates. Aromatherapy/bath items. Samson Mall, 403-522-3826. Map 2, 20M ChAteAu MountAin SPortS Rental Shop (403-522-3628): Rossignol ski pkgs $40-$53 (kids $25), snowboards $39 (kids $23), x-c $25, helmets, skates, hockey sticks/pucks, snowshoes and boots (return to Banff or Lake Louise store). Half/multi-day discounts. Retail Shop (403-5223837): technical and ski outerwear, mountain lifestyle clothing, footwear and accessories. Arc’teryx, Oakley, Smith, Dale of Norway, Sorel, The North Face, Canada Goose. Fairmont Chateau, 403-522-3837. Map 2, 14C Creek Side ChriStMAS & GiftS Christmas decor, Canadian and international apparel, arts and crafts, jewellery, bath and body products, games and toys. Fairmont Chateau Lk Louise, 403-522-2359. Map 2, 14C

lake louise shops

Goodie GoodieS CAndy ShoP Chocolate bear claws, turtles and mountains. Chocolate dipped pretzels, Rogers Chocolates, maple syrup items, tea, smoked salmon. Fairmont Chateau Lk Louise, 403-522-3507. Map 2, 14C iMAGeS of the north Native sculptures, ammolite jewellery, fossils and minerals, and Canadian handcrafts. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-3699. Map 2, 14C lAke louiSe SAMSon MAll Gift, gallery, book, rock/fossil, clothing, sport, grocery, liquor, bakery and candy shops. Bank, post office and car rentals. Take-out foods, café, bar and restaurant. Plenty of parking out front. Village Rd at Lake Louise Dr, one block off Hwy 1. Map 2, 20M lAke louiSe Ski AreA Equipment & Clothing Store: skis, snowboards, clothing, accessories. Gift Shop: features souvenir apparel. Rental Shop: skis, snowboards, x-c skis, snowshoes, helmets and gear for kids. Afternoon/multi-day discounts. Repairs. 403-522-3555. Map 2, 18P olde tyMe CAndy ShoPPe Homemade chocolates and fudge. Maple syrup souvenirs. Imported sweets. Ice cream. Samson Mall, 403-522-3967. Map 2, 20M

Stone’S Jewellery Fine collection of handmade, original design jewellery set with rare gems such as alexandrites, black opals, star sapphires and rubies. 10 am-8 pm in winter. Lobby, Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-3800. Map 2, 14C the viewPoint Guides: nature, hiking, skiing, climbing, fishing and boating. Souvenir photo books, histories and bestsellers. Topographic and road maps. Cards, posters and DVDs. Worldwide mail orders. Samson Mall, 403-522-3020. Map 2, 20M wilSon MountAin SPortS Skis from Salomon, Rossignol, Blizzard, Fischer, K2 and Völkl (rental pkgs $39/$49, yth $29, kids $24). Boards by Burton, Rossignol and K2 (rental pkgs $49, kids $25). Rentals and sales of touring, telemark and Nordic gear, snowshoes, skates, snowblades, avalanche gear, ski suits. Clothing by Patagonia, Marmot, Columbia, Icebreaker, Kuhl. Repairs. Samson Mall, 403-522-3636. Map 2, 20M

RentalS

Skis • Snowboards • XC Snowshoes • Skates

PiPeStone QuArry Rocks, minerals and fossils from around the world with a focus on those found locally. Jasper, Labradorite, tumblestone and geodes. Rare crystals. Jewellery. Canadian Rockies geology maps /guide books. Samson Mall, 403-522-3020. Map 2, 20M Qiviuk Traditional and fashion forward designs—sweaters, coats and accessories of softer-than-cashmere qiviuk yarn from the insulating down of the Arctic muskox, world’s rarest natural fibre. Chateau Lake Louise, 403-522-2622. Map 2, 14C SAMSon nAtive GAllery First Nations arts and crafts. Paintings, sculpture, photography, clothing, quilts and jewellery. Samson Mall, 403-522-3617. Map 2, 20M StAtion ShoP Antique railway silver and china, books (some rare), shirts, tea, teddy bears. 200 Sentinel Rd, 403-522-2600. Map 2, 19N

At The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and The Fairmont Banff Springs

Retail 403-522-3837 Rentals 403-522-3628

ChateauMountainSports.com WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff hot dining

Top Ranked Restaurant

Commitment to Quality

The Edible Canadian It doesn’t get more Canadian than these two lauded, wood-finished Banff restaurants: • At Maple Leaf Grill & Lounge (p 80), sample Alberta when you order the 'cowboy' 18-oz beef ribeye or their bacon-wrapped bison tenderloin. Taste British Columbia by choosing signature wild salmon poached in maple syrup. • At The Evergreen (p 80), continue your epicurean Alberta foray with Paddle River elk medallions. Travel both north and west by ordering the pan seared Arctic char with Okanagan chardonnay cream sauce. —Kirsten Varsek

The healthy mountain lifestyle embraced by Coyotes (p 88) owners Trudy Allan and Kathy Johnson (and their chef Dan Purvis, shown) is reflected in the cuisine at their restaurant. “None of our food is out of a box or bag,” notes Trudy. Patrons watch as fresh ingredients transform into made-fromscratch southwestern specialties in the open kitchen. Vegetarians and those on gluten-free diets are welcomed. Quality touches include homemade salsas, New Mexico chili powders, organic Vita eggs (a breakfast favourite), and Coyotes custom roasted and blended coffee. —Jack Wennot

When in Greece… Our favourite way to eat at The Balkan (p 84) is to share appies. We always order Horiatiki salad, hummus and flambéed saganaki. Then we pick from starters like Greek meatballs, dolmathes, kalamari, spanakopita; conveniently, these all come on the Pikilia share platter. We also consider fried feta balls, charred lamb ribs, stuffed eggplant and flambéed prawns. Meze (Greek appetizers) dining lets you taste more of the menu! —Lisa Stephens

PhoTos: EDEN sQuAB, sIMoN PhoToGRAPhy; CoyoTEs ChEf, JAsoN RoACh; BIsoN TENDERLoIN, MAPLE LEAf GRILL

Luxurious surroundings, a star crowned mountain view, service that defines professional, the finest wine cellar in Banff and the masterfully prepared and presented creations of the chef de cuisine. These attributes have earned Eden (p 84) AAA/ CAA ‘5-Diamond’ and Wine Spectator ‘Best of Award of Excellence’ accolades 10 years in a row. Indeed, Trip Advisor contributors rank Eden #1 of 115 restaurants in Banff. —Jack Wennot

banff dining

Listings are for advertisers and others worthy of your attention. Maps are on pages 122 and 124-125. Canadian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . CHINESE & Thai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Family & Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fondue & GERMAN . . . . . . . . . . . French . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Greek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Italian & SWISS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Japanese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . KOREAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sightseeing Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Southwestern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Steaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

79 82 82 84 84 84 84 84 87 87 87 88 88 90

Fortifying Fondue Fondue is the winter comfort food of alpine towns. Grapes Wine Bar (p 80; shown), an intimate Canadian bistro tucked away in The Fairmont Banff Springs, serves truffle fondue with emmental and gruyere cheese, chardonnay cognac and diced black truffles. In downtown Banff, the Grizzly House (p 84) pioneered hot rock fondues including exotic offerings. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Kirsten Varsek For more listings and links scan this code or key in BanffDiningGuide.com

Canadian Banffshire Club Enjoy an extraordinary evening in this elegant room with iconic Scottish baronial decor. The chef continually innovates to offer Canadian cuisine that incorporates currently available local and sustainable produce and meats. Open-to-view wine cellar with 2000 labels. AAA/CAA Four Diamond and Mobile Four Star awards. Mains $37$59. Multi-course options with available wine pairing. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L The Bison Regional Canadian cuisine from locally sourced ingredients. Chef Liz Gagnon features Carmen Creek bison, Ewe-Nique Farms lamb and wood fired appetizers. Mains $19-$45. Douglas fir finished room with open copper kitchen. Daily from 5 pm; Sun brunch 10 am-2 pm. 211 Bear St, 403-762-5550. Map 3, 14N Bow Valley Grill Fresh market cuisine from an open kitchen overlooking the Fairholme Range. Baking on-site; tantalizing grilled meats, salads, seafoods and decadent des-

serts. Mains ($28-$45) such as bison short rib mac-n-cheese, slow roasted prime rib and pappardelle stroganoff. Generous buffets including Ă la minute omelettes: breakfast $29, Sat/Sun brunch $46. Family friendly; buffets half price for kids 6-12 (-6 free). The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-7626860. Map 3, 20L Buffalo Mountain Lodge Timber built Sleeping Buffalo Dining Room offers Rocky Mountain Cuisine. Seasonal menus incorporate local produce and wild game from their own farm. Charcuterie board; Alberta Angus ribeye with banyuls jus; bourbon apple glazed wild boar; free range chicken with chardonnay thyme sauce. Wine Spectator award. Fireplace lounge. Mains $26-$39, breakfast/lunch $11-$19. Tunnel Mountain Rd, 403-762-2400. Map 3, 10L Chinook Restaurant at Banff Park Lodge Relaxed, family atmosphere with comfy booths and Sundance Range views. All-day breakfasts, meal salads, sandwiches, prime rib burger, curry bowls and buffalo lasagna ($11-$18). Additional dinner mains: Hollandaise salmon, pecan crusted stuffed chicken and Guinness braised beef ($17-$22). Child menus.

Huge Sun brunch buffet ($26, sen $21, 6-12 $16, -6 free). Jan-Mar 2-for-1 buffets (6-9 pm): Wed Mediterranean, Thurs southwestern with guitarist, Fri seafood with pianist. 2nd Fl, 222 Lynx St, 403-762-4433. Map 3, 14F Earls A favourite in Western Canada, known for an upbeat atmosphere and big global menu. Finger foods, salads, burgers, sandwiches, Canadian AAA Angus beef, pasta, tender chicken, fresh BC salmon and prawns. Thin crust pizza. Mains $14-$34. Nightly drink specials. Mountain views. Upstairs, 229 Banff Ave (enter off Wolf St), 403-762-4414. Map 3, 13O Elk & Oarsman Pub & Restaurant Mountain decor with large fireplaces. Steaks (elk, bison and Certified Angus beef), burgers, gourmet pizza, ribs and pub fare like ale battered haddock and chips, nachos and wings. Locals love the value-priced daily specials: Mon $10 pizzas, Tues $8 steak sandwich, Everything Elk Wed, Thurs baby back ribs $13/$17, Fri (4-6 pm) 2-for-1 appies. 11 big screens show sports. Most mains $12-$32. Food 11 am-1 am; drinks to late. Live music Sat/Sun; plus other nights. 119 Banff Ave (above The Ski Hub), 403-762-4616. Map 3, 16O WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff dining

The eVerGreen “Casual fine dining” and internationally inspired cuisine: organic produce and meats in partnership with local farms. From the open kitchen come paddle River elk with port wine and cherry sauce; classic Brome Lake duck à l’orange; and handmade fettucini with mussels, scallops, shrimp and lobster. In-house desserts like English toffee pudding and chocolate suzette. Vegetarian/ vegan menu. Mains $17-$36; breakfast $12-$20; lunch $13-$22. Canadian VQA wines; big cocktail menu. Lounge with full menu. 459 Banff Ave, 403-762-3307. Map 3, 11I GraPes wine Bar & BisTro This intimate hideaway with rustic dark wood decor is a hidden gem. Their chef prepares local meats grilled to perfection (try the Sterling Silver ribeye steak) and great fondues (try the Emmental and Swiss cheese fondue laced with kirsch). Mains $22-$44. Extensive Canadian and international wine list. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L JuniPer BisTro Elevated location with great view. $14 flatbreads (Asian BBQ chicken; brussels sprout bacon; roast tomato basil), $12 buns (burger; crisp chicken; black bread grilled cheese) and $2-$14 small bites/sides. Breakfast $9-$14. Fireplace lounge. Closed Mon-Tues. Happy hour 4:306:30 pm (flatbreads half price). Mt Norquay Rd (N of town across Hwy 1), 403-762-2281. Map 3, 11A MaPle leaf Grill Lodge-style interior with rock and wood features. Chef Morne Burger offers creative Canadian cuisine using Brome Lake duck, Alberta beef tenderloin and bison, fresh seafood and game. Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence. private dining rooms. Mains $24-$45. Lunch/brunch $10-$21. 137 Banff Ave, 403-760-7680. Map 3, 15O

Regional cuisine embracing the best of Canada

TheEvergreen.ca 459 Banff Ave 403-762-3307 80

where.ca // baNff

nourish BisTro All vegetarian cuisine with sharing-style menu: nachos (27 ingredients), ‘shroom' ravioli and daily curry. Bar and booth seats. Organic, vegan, raw, glutenfree choices. Mains $15-$26, lunch $12-$18. Bison Courtyard, 211 Bear St, 403-760-3933. Map 3, 14N rundle lounGe Elegant decor with incredible view, 4-season patio with fire pits and seasonal ice bar. All day menu: French onion soup, pizza and hearty ‘comfort food’ entrées.

Afternoon Tea: 12 exclusive loose leaf teas, finger sandwiches and delectable pastries, noon-5 pm ($41, $51 with sparkling wine). Signature cocktails with fresh squeezed juices. Singer/guitarist or pianist Fri-Sat. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-7626860. Map 3, 20L Storm Mountain Lodge 1922 log building with fireplace and Sawback Range views. All Canadian cuisine (mains $26-$44): Alberta bison tenderloin, organic chicken, wild fresh fish and Alberta lamb. Homemade desserts. Breakfast and lunch ($11$18): salads, sandwiches and bison burger. 25 min W of Banff off Hwy 93 South, 403-762-4155. Map 1, 7B Terrace Dining Room at Banff Park Lodge Stylishly casual atmosphere with white linen and a glass atrium that offers a panoramic mountain view. Sterling Silver AAA Canadian steaks, elk with port poivrade sauce, lime grilled king salmon and fettuccini fruita de mar. Mains $25$39; 5-course tasting menu $75, wine pairing options. Private functions. 222 Lynx St, 403-762-4433. Map 3, 14F Tony Roma’s Pioneer of back ribs with 200 restaurants in 33 countries. The recently renovated Banff outlet features wood decor and window tables overlooking Banff Ave. Certified Angus AAA Alberta steaks and prime rib. Slow roasted BBQ chicken and pork sandwiches. Burgers, pastas and full-meal salads. Grilled shrimp, salmon and mahi mahi. Signature onion loaf and sauces. Mains $10-$32; combos $24.50-$34. Classic lunch $10-$16. Breakfasts $6.50-$20; buffet option Sat/Sun. 7 am-11 pm. Banquet rooms. Fireside lounge. 138 Banff Ave, 403-760-8540. Map 3, 15O Tooloulou’s Canadian fare with a Cajun/Creole twist (mains $18$48): blackened snapper and chicken, jambalaya, catfish, salmon, steaks, burgers and pizza. Breakfast $6-$15 (until 2 pm). Kids menu. 204 Caribou St, 403-762-2633. Map 3, 15N Wildfire Grill Mountain views and Canadian comfort food made from scratch. Burgers, pizzas, fresh pastas and vegetarian dishes. Dinner/ lunch mains $13-$25; breakfast buffet $14 (or à la carte). 7 am-10 pm. Bears Den Pub with full menu, 54" TV, pool table and juke box. Inns of Banff, 600 Banff Ave, 403-762-4581. Map 3, 9K

Dine at Canada’s Castle in the Rockies You are invited to The Fairmont Banff Springs; unwind in luxury and enjoy an evening of unforgettable dining. Treat your senses to a globallyinspired epicurean journey. Our restaurants feature the best Italian, Japanese, Alpine and authentically local dishes, plus an elegant Afternoon Tea.

Experience The Rundle Lounge featuring live entertainment, signature cocktails and a remarkable mountain view. After a day of outdoor play, warm up by the fire pit with a hot drink at the Waldhaus Pub. These are Banff’s best après ski destinations, perfect places to unwind. This Saturday or Sunday, treat yourself to brunch in the Bow Valley Grill featuring Banff’s largest selection of unique and traditional dishes. With our friendly chefs ready to make you a fresh omelet in our ‘open kitchen’, you can dine, relax and enjoy this legendary brunch experience. Call: (403) 762-6860

www.fairmont.com/banffsprings

WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

Y ur on 4 r o ti 1 fo loca 20 tch nff ring Wa Ba Sp w g ne enin op

Superb Chinese Cuisine

banff dining

Chinese & Thai BaMBoo Garden Family-friendly restaurant with main street and mountain views. Big variety of Asian cuisine: pad Thai, Thai curries and roasted chicken, Vietnamese spring rolls, Malaysian crêpes and pineapple fried rice, and Korean BBQ ribs. Noodle and vegetarian dishes. No MSG. Mains $12-$20. Lunch and dinner. 2nd floor, park Avenue Mall, 211 Banff Ave, 403-985-6688. Map 3, 14O loTus loTus Chinese Cuisine Lemon chicken, sweet and sour pork, ginger beef, vegetables, noodles and specials. Build-your-own-meal from many choices. Counter service; eatin/take-out. Delivery (free $25+). Cascade Shops Food Court, 317 Banff Ave, 403-762-4388. Map 3, 13O

3rd floor, 211 Banff Ave, next to OK Gifts • 403-762-3939 Also Calgary’s Chinatown 403-264-5326

silVer draGon Authentic Cantonese, peking and Szechuan cuisine. pleasant decor with skylight, patio and mountain view. Spring rolls; ginger fried beef; almond and crispy chicken; seafood chow mein; lobster in ginger, black bean or creamy butter sauce. Mains $15-$27. peking duck $32/$46. Combos for one to ten people $18-$230. Weekday multi-course lunch $11/$12. Tables for groups. Take-out/delivery. 11:30 am-10 pm. Owned by the same family that runs well-regarded Silver Dragon in Calgary (106 3 Ave SE, 403-264-5326). 211 Banff Ave (watch for their new Banff location opening Spring 2014), 403-762-3939. Map 3, 14O

Family & CaFes Cake CoMPany Cafe Hot and cold sandwiches, wraps and specials. Fresh baking: cakes, squares, cookies and sweet breads. Specialty coffees and hot chocolate. Take-out/eat-in. 7 am-5 pm. 220 Bear St, 403-7628642. Map 3, 14N CasCade shoPs food CourT Rock floor, fireplace and domed atrium. Edo Japan: teriyaki chicken or shrimp, sukiyaki or yakisoba beef, and ginger pork made as you watch. Lotus Lotus Chinese Cuisine: classic chicken, pork, beef and vegetable dishes. Mrs Vanelli’s Fresh Italian Foods: pizza, panzerotti, pasta and salads. Taste of Sri Lanka: samosa, satay and curry. Booster Juice: fruit smoothies and panini. Dairy Queen: ice milk treats, burgers and breakfast. Subway: subs, wraps and salads. Second Cup: espresso bar, baking and soft seats (street level). 317 Banff Ave, Map 3, 13O 82

where.ca // baNff

The CasTle PanTry Self-serve café, bakery and deli with tables off the lobby. Homemade breads, pastries, chowder, salads, chili and sandwiches ($8-$15). Espresso and cappuccino made to order. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L

Southwestern Grill

Cows Canada’s best ice cream says Reader’s Digest. 32 flavours of super premium ice cream in handmade waffle cones. Sundaes and milkshakes. Cow theme souvenirs. 134 Banff Ave, 403-760-3493. Map 3, 16O eVelyn’s Coffee Bar Coffee, muffins, sandwiches, soups, daily lunch specials and desserts. Local favourite (try the trail cookie). 119 Banff Ave, 403-762-0352 Map 3, 17O; 201 Banff Ave, 403-762-0352 Map 3, 15O; 229 Bear St, 403-762-0352 Map 3, 14N MCdonald’s McCafe espresso coffees, McBistro chicken sandwiches, Angus 1/3 pounders and fruit smoothies join the familiar menu. Lighter choice options; value items; healthy Happy Meals for kids. Open 24 hrs, breakfast 4-11 am. Free WiFi. 116 Banff Ave, 403-762-5232. Map 3, 16O riCky’s all day Grill Casual family dining at a comfortable modern restaurant. Hearty breakfasts (until 4 pm): yukon Big Bite, Grand Forks, innovative omelettes, breakfast bowls and seven kinds of eggs Benedict. Mains ($10.50-$26.50): thin crust pizza, certified Angus beef or veggie burgers, huge salads, slow roasted turkey, poached halibut and BBQ back ribs with Bull’s-Eye Guinness sauce option. Kid’s menu. 7 am-10 pm, lounge open late. Banff International Hotel, 333 Banff Ave, 403-760-3298. Map 3, 13G

fresh contemporary cuisine breakfast, lunch & dinner daily 206 caribou street, banff • coyotesbanff.com reservations accepted 403-762-3963

a rare steakhouse

shakes Nathan’s World Famous beef hot dogs, poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Vietnamese subs, hot and cold bubble tea, milkshakes from real ice cream and fruit purée, sundaes, frozen yogurt and fresh squeezed lemonade. Take-out/eat-in. 201 Banff Ave (Caribou St entrance), 403-762-9148. Map 3, 14O sTarBuCks Espresso bar with fireplace and street views. 225 Banff Ave, 403-760-8777. Map 3, 14O suBway Subs to order on choice of fresh bread. Toasted, heated or cold. Low fat, kids packs, salads and value meals. Take out/eat in. 7 am- 3 am.

the Lik lounge, upscale in everything but price reserve for parties of 8 or more 403-762-2467 221 bear street saltlik.com WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

BamBoo Garden Asian Cuisine

banff dining

Cascade Shops Food Court, 317 Banff Ave, 403-985-5599 Map 3, 13O. 137 Banff Ave (Caribou St entrance), 403-985-5589 Map 3, 15O.

experience. Elegant decor; mountain views. Rimrock Resort Hotel, 300 Mountain Ave (near Upper Hot Springs), 403-762-1865. Map 3, 21H

wild flour Bakery Fresh pastries, cakes, cookies, muffins and artisan bread. Open-to-view kitchen. Gluten-free, vegan and raw options. Breakfast all day, grilled sandwiches, salads, soups and espresso drinks. 211 Bear St, 403-760-5074. Map 3, 14N

le BeauJolais Classic French restaurant with window tables and elegant decor is perfect for an enchanting night out. AAA 4-Diamond award. A la carte menu (entrées $26$40) and 6-course chef’s surprise $95 ($155 with wine pairing): Arctic char, butter poached lobster, braised elk osso bucco, Dover sole meunière, duck, steak and beef tenderloin with seared foie gras. Extensive wine list. From 5 pm. Upstairs, Buffalo St at Banff Ave, 403-762-2712. Map 3, 17O

Fondue & German

Pad Thai • Thai Curries Vietnamese Spring Rolls Pineapple Fried Rice Malaysian Crêpes Korean BBQ Ribs Fully Licensed Open Daily for Lunch & Dinner 2nd Floor, 211 Banff Ave Reservations: 403-985-6688

Authentic Indian Cuisine

Grizzly house “For lovers and hedonists.” Eclectic, rustic decor. Oil and hot rock fondues: beef, buffalo, chicken, snake, lobster, shark, cheese and chocolate. Wild game and .5 kg (18 oz) Alberta steaks. 100 wines; 40 Canadian. Big beer and liquor selection. Dinners $24-$48; exotic fondues $42-$80; lunch $9-$22. 11:30 am-midnight. 207 Banff Ave, 403-762-4055. Map 3, 15O waldhaus resTauranT “House in the Forest”; the original golf course clubhouse with recent renovations, fireplace and elegant decor. Wiener schnitzel, local smoked meats platter and signature 3-course Fondue Experience offerings. Mains $32-$45. The Fairmont Banff Springs (by the skating rink), 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L

FrenCh BisTro Cafe de Paris Casual bistro offers classic fare (entrées $15-$28): trout almandine, coq au vin, beef tartar, meatloaf, vegetarian gnocchi and roasted leg of lamb. AAA Ny steak entrecôte is finished table side ($32 with pomme frites). Weekly Wine picks menu. Separate wine bar. From 5 pm. Upstairs beside Le Beaujolais, corner Buffalo St and Banff Ave, 403-762-5365. Map 3, 17O

Butter chicken, vindaloos, korma, chicken tikka masala, vegetarian dishes, seekh kabobs & naan breads Traditional tandoori oven Dinner 5 pm–10 pm, to 11 pm Fri–Sat Lunch Buffet noon–2:30 pm Wed–Sun

229 Bear St, Wolf & Bear Mall Banff 403-760-6612 masalabanff.com 84

where.ca // baNff

eden 5-Diamond award, one of 5 in Canada. Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence 1200 label/17,000 bottle wine list is easily navigated with the help of 5 sommeliers. 2- to 4-course table d’hôte ($79, $89, $99; $103, $135, $167 with wine pairing) showcase fine culinary creations like BC spot prawn consommé with peanut, ginger and papaya; Angus beef ribeye with wild leek, oxtail and potato; rabbit with nuts, berries, foraged BC mushrooms, fava beans and guanciale; BC sablefish with tomato, watermelon and onion. Chef’s Grand Degustation 10-course tasting is a quintessential dining

Greek Balkan Family owned and operated, pride shows in their authentic Greek cuisine, decor and hospitality. Arni psito (roast lamb), souvlaki, moussaka, lemon herb lamb, Ny steak with Greek BBQ sauce, seafood, pasta and vegetarian items. pikilia hot starters combo. Seafood and Greek platters for two or more. Mains $15$36. Lunch $9.50-$15.50; try pulled lamb ciabatta with Greek salad. Greek Night with belly dancing and plate smashing Tues and Thurs. 120 Banff Ave, 403-762-3454. Map 3, 16O

indian Masala Traditional and innovative Indian dishes, many from the wood-fired tandoori oven. Mains ($15-$20): butter chicken, chicken tikka, lamb vindaloo, beef korma and biryani. Many vegetarian selections. Chef Anand Singh is Indian trained. Dinner from 5 pm. Lunch buffet Wed-Sun noon-2:30 pm. 229 Bear St, 403-760-6612. Map 3, 13N

iTalian & swiss CarliTo’s Pizzaria Fireplace and sports on plasmas. pizza: choice of 25 toppings (10”/12”, $12-$20). poutine, burgers, sandwiches and donair. 5-11 pm. Free delivery. 501 Banff Ave, 403-762-3388. Map 3, 11I CasTello risToranTe Elegant Italian courtyard setting paired with a menu and fine service that transports guests to Italy. Grilled swordfish with olives and caper vinaigrette, pappardelle with braised veal cheeks, pork tenderloin, lamb two ways, veal Saltimbocca, pasta and pizza. Vegetarian and gluten-free options. Mains $21-$40. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L

onight, steak therapy.

kegsteakhouse.com

Caribou Lodge Keg - 521 Banff Avenue(403) (403) 762-4442 Caribou Lodge Keg - 521 Banff Avenue 762-4442 Downtown Keg - 117 Banff Avenue(403) (403) 760-3030 Downtown Keg - 117 Banff Avenue 760-3030

PEPPER IN SOME FUN Serving Baby Back Ribs, Sizzling Fajitas Big Mouth Burgers速 & More! In The he Fox Fox Hotel & Suite Suites ites ite tes - 461 Banff Ave. 403-760403-760-8502 7 8502 760WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

W A NE R T E T BS

banff dining

NK GiorGio’s TraTToria Charming decor with gables and beam ceiling. Thin-crust pizzas, pasta, steaks, pollo parmesan, daily fish and risotto. 100+ wines. Mains $17-$33. 5-10 pm. 219 Banff Ave, 403-762-5114. Map 3, 14O The MeaTBall Pizza & PasTa Warm decor and Italian/Canadian cuisine with a modern twist. House-made appetizers, flavourful stone-oven pizzas, hearty pastas, and tantalizing meat and vegetarian entrées. Mains $15-$29. Breakfast buffet $14.75. Lunch $9-$14. Lounge with views. 6:30 am-10 pm. Banff ptarmigan Inn, 337 Banff Ave, 403762-3667. Map 3, 13G

Banff’s Original Steakhouse & Family Restaurant Locally Owned & Operated Since 1930 Enjoy Canadian home-style cooking in a heritage log dining room. Savour breakfasts from scratch, AAA Alberta steaks & prime rib. Our casual upstairs bar serves to late, with happy hour 4–7 pm. Breakfast (to 4 pm) • Lunch • Dinner Downtown, 218 Lynx St, two blocks from Banff Ave Dinner reservations 403-762-5511 • melssteak.com

Mrs. Vanellis pizza (whole or by the slice), pasta (choice of sauce), lasagna, salads, wings and soups. Delivery ($25+ free). Cascade Shops Food Court, 317 Banff Ave, 403-7624388. Map 3, 13O old sPaGheTTi faCTory Antiques and memorabilia characteristic of 1900 Banff. Many pasta specialties plus steak, chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Sautéed mushrooms, calamari and mozza stix appetizers. Meals ($10-$18, $5-$7 child) include hot sourdough bread, soup or salad, ice cream, and coffee/ tea at no extra charge. From 11:30 am. Reservations accepted. 317 Banff Ave, 403-760-2779. Map 3, 13O The PriMrose Elegant yet casual dining room with Bow and Spray Valley and Mt Rundle views. Italian creations: parmesan reggiano crusted sea scallops; penne with Italian sausage and scampi; lobster, salmon and crab pappardelle with mascarpone reduction; wild mushroom risotto, osso bucco, bacon wrapped 8 oz filet mignon; and sausage and portobello flatbread. Mains $19-$38, child $8-$9. Breakfast $12-$20, child $5-$12, plus Sat-Sun buffet. Most Wednesdays in winter: à la minute pasta and salad station $26, child $13. Rimrock Resort Hotel, 300 Mountain Ave, 403-762-1865. Map 3, 21H TiCino swiss-iTalian resTauranT Swiss cuisine with Italian influences. Rack of veal; hazelnut chicken stuffed with goat cheese; fresh fish; steak and lobster; lamb loin with figs and dates; pasta; fondue and raclette. Colourful rustic/elegant decor. Mains $19-$38. Banquet room. 415 Banff Ave, 403-762-3848. Map 3, 12H

where.ca // baNff

Japanese JaPanese resTauranT Miki Japanese foods and mountain views. Sushi and sashimi, vegetable and seafood tempura, beef hot pots and Alberta steaks. Frequent all-you-caneat specials. Mains $16-$35. From 5 pm; last seating 9 pm. 2nd flr, 600 Banff Ave, 403-762-0600. Map 3, 9K saMurai sushi Bar & resTauranT Authentic and fresh nigiri and rolled sushi, and sashimi. Interactive hot pots for two: yosenabe, shabushabu and sukiyaki ($65). Shrimp and vegetable tempura ($14). Seasonal 5-course menu $38. Japanese sake, beer and plum wine. Charming, intimate room. The Fairmont Banff Springs, 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L

Melissa’s uPsTairs Bar 1930 log decor. Melissa’s Restaurant food: eggs Benedict, hot beef and turkey, ribs and Cajun chicken Caesar (mains $8-$20). Darts, pool, video games, 11 TVs (4 satellite; 60" plasmas; individual tabletop speakers); most sports in town. pBR king cans $3.75, pints $4.25, highballs $2.75. Happy hr 4-7 pm. 218 Lynx St, 403-762-5776. Map 3, 15N PePPer’s Bar & deli TV, pool, darts. Breakfast, burgers, sandwiches,

pizza, pasta, veggie dishes, fish and chips, steaks and ribs (mains $10$25). Child menu. 7 am-mid (food to 10:30 pm). Banff Ave and Tunnel Mtn Rd, 403-762-5531. Map 3, 1O The PuMP & TaP British/Canadian pub fare and drink specials. Sports (soccer, rugby, cricket, NHL, NFL) on HDs. pool, foosball, bubble hockey, trivia and VLTs. Mon night acoustic jams. Noon to 2 am. 215 Banff Ave, 403-760-6610. Map 3, 14O

korean seoul CounTry Family owned and operated; over 30 years experience. Healthy, authentic cuisine from Alberta meats and fresh vegetables. Dinner size soups and stews. Meats grilled on your table top BBQ. Kal-bi (marinated short ribs), bul-gogi (sliced beef ribeye), bi-bim-bab (rice bowl with meat and vegetable medley), kim-chi (spicy, pickled cabbage). 11:30 am-9 pm. Mains $13-$28. 215 Banff Ave, 403-762-4941. Map 3, 14O

pubs Banff aVe BrewinG Co. Banff’s only brew pub with open-to-view brewery; free tours on request. Crispy lobster roll, burgers, fish and chips, bacon wrapped meatloaf, banana panko crusted chicken. Mains $11$25. Kids menu. 10 wines by the glass. Brewer’s lounge with soft seats, pool and big screen sports. Mon $4 pints; Beer Club talk/tasting 8 pm, $10. 2nd floor, Clock Tower Mall, 110 Banff Ave, 403-762-1003. Map 3, 17P The Bear sTreeT TaVern ‘Ridiculously good’ pizza, sandwiches, cast iron specialties and local beer. Cozy seating in a casual atmosphere. Big TVs for sports. Mains $14-$23; lunch from $11. Daily from 11:30 am. Street level below The Bison Restaurant, 211 Bear St, 403-762-2021. Map 3, 14N Bruno’s Bar & Grill Named for legendary mountain guide Bruno Engler. Burgers and all-day breakfasts. Mains $9-$16. Free wireless. Karaoke Thurs, open mic Fri from 10 pm. Sports TVs. Mon-Fri 9 am-2 am, from 8 am Sat/Sun. Eat in/take-out. 304 Caribou St, 403-762-8115. Map 3, 15P

10th

AnniversAry in Banff

If You Haven’t Had Tony Roma’s You Haven’t Had Ribs!! Visit our recently renovated Banff restaurant for breakfast (à la carte, plus buffet most weekends), lunch & dinner!

403-760-8540 • tonyromas.com Mount Royal Hotel, 138 Banff Ave Corner of Banff Avenue & Caribou Street WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

banff dining

rose & Crown pub-style restaurant. Soups, fresh salads, sandwiches, homemade burgers (bison, lamb), fish and chips, pasta, elk stew and curry chicken. Mains $10-$20; full menu 11 am-mid. Many beers on tap. Daily food/drink specials. Live music/ dancing nightly. Quieter games room with pool and foosball. 202 Banff Ave, 403-762-2121. Map 3, 15O Sundance Mall 215 Banff Ave 403-762-4941

BANFF

DiNiNg guiDe 2013/14

FREE IN-DEPTH COVERAGE Widely available Pick up your copy today

A tempting selection of BANFF’s favourite restaurants

BanffdiningGuide.com banffdiningguide.co m

LOTUS LOTUS Chinese Cuisine • Lemon chicken, sweet & sour pork, ginger beef, vegetables, noodles & rice • Daily specials • Eat-in & take-out • Delivery (free over $25)

Cascade Plaza Food Court Lower level, 317 Banff Ave 403-762-4388

Fondue & Hot Rocks for Lovers & Hedonists

EST 1967 Seating 11:30 am to Midnight Reservations Appreciated 207 Banff Ave • 403-762-4055 www.banffgrizzlyhouse.com 88

where.ca // baNff

sT JaMes’s GaTe olde irish PuB Built in Dublin; assembled in Banff. 24 beers on tap, 30 single malt scotches and Irish whiskeys. Certified Angus beef steaks, Irish stew, steak and Guinness pie, shepherd’s pie, liver and onions, seafood, pastas, sandwiches and burgers. Unique Guinness, crab and asparagus soup. 2-for-1 appies Mon-Wed 3-6 pm. Thurs Irish Night: $9 Irish fare, $1 off Irish pints. Sunday Carvery: roast of the day with soup or salad (from 4 pm, $15). Live music Thurs-Sat. Big screen sports. Mains $11-$25. 11 am–mid or later. 207 Wolf St, 403-762-9355. Map 3, 13O ToMMy’s neiGhBourhood PuB ‘British’ pub with pine decor, plasmas and darts. Wings, sandwiches, fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, chowder, burgers (beef, elk, chicken, buffalo, veggie), $8-$13. Food/drink specials; steak sandwich $9; lunch from $8. Families welcome. Live music (Brad Brewer) Mon and open mic Wed (instruments provided) from 10 pm. 11 am-2 am; food to 11 pm. 120 Banff Ave, 403-762-8888. Map 3, 16O waldhaus PuB Lower level of 1927 Bavarian-style ‘cottage’ recently renovated with 4-season patio fire pits, free pool, 2 giant 80" HD TVs for sports and live music. pub and alpine cuisine: wings, skillet nachos, burgers and fondue. Mains $16-$24. Authentic beer taps; wide selection of German beers. Wing Wed. Fairmont Banff Springs (by the golf course skating rink), 403-762-6860. Map 3, 20L wild Bill’s leGendary saloon Cookhouse classics: hickory smoked beef brisket, hearty beef ribs, roast chicken, pulled pork, stuffed portabello mushroom and ‘cowboy’ sirloins. ‘Chuck wagon’ sandwiches, elk burger, BBQ cobb salad and Grandma’s berry cobbler. Mains $13-$27. Downtown Banff’s premier entertainment venue at night: top bands (Fri, Sat and most Thurs), occasional comedy shows, Tues karaoke and Tues/Thurs/ Sun mechanical bull. Western decor;

just renovated. 11 am-2 am. 201 Banff Ave, 403-762-0333. Map 3, 15O

siGhTseeinG liFT Banff Gondola Incredible mountain, river and town view at Summit Restaurant with window-side tables and counter-service breakfast, lunch or dinner. From Dec 21 Sat night; from Apr 18 Fri and Sat nights: Alpine Lights at Panorama Restaurant threecourse table-service prime rib dinner with vegetarian option 'served' with the sparking lights of Banff (seatings 5 pm and 7 pm; $55, ch $30; reservations required). End of Mountain Ave near the Upper Hot Springs, 1-800-760-6934. Map 3, 21J

souThwesTern Chili’s Their motto is 'pepper in some fun at Chili’s Texas Grill!'. Bold, smokey flavours dominate and entice in a menu featuring Big Mouth burgers, fire-grilled steaks, entrée sized salads and new southwestern pasta selection. Lighter Choice options are available for all items. Mains $12$26. Continental breakfast buffet. Wood decor; many booths. 7 am 11 pm; Fri/Sat to mid. 461 Banff Ave, 403-760-8502. Map 3, 11I CoyoTes souThwesTern Grill Healthy southwest, west coast and Mediterranean cuisine: grilled meats and salmon, corn crusted pizza, homemade pasta and vegetarian dishes. AAA beef tenderloin with roast red pepper and green chile relish, Chimayo honey glazed salmon, spicy vegetable and black bean burrito, and daily specials. Breakfast ingredients include free-range organic eggs, local Valbella meats and real Canadian maple syrup. Santa Fe decor; open kitchen; candlelit at dinner. Mains $16-$29; breakfast/lunch from $8.50. 7:30 am-10 pm. 206 Caribou St, 403-762-3963. Map 3, 15O el Toro Cuisine from scratch; special request welcome. Tapas $6-$13: tequila cream prawns, empanadillas, Manchego cheese flambé. Mains $17$37: braised lamb shoulder, roasted butternut squash ravioli, bison chorizo penne. Chateaubriand for two carved tableside, $75 with starter. Mexican dishes $14-$20. Children welcome. 10% of Sunday sales go to charity. Breakfast/dinner. 429 Banff Ave, 403-762-2520. Map 3, 12H MaGPie & sTuMP Rustic restaurant with Mexican fare: fajitas, enchila-

Banff’s onLY food Court Edo Japan • Subway Second Cup • Lotus Lotus Chinese Food Booster Juice • Mrs. Vanellis • Dairy Queen • Taste of Sri Lanka The Old Spaghetti Factory Full Service Restaurant 317 Banff Ave, Downtown at Banff Ave and Wolf St • 403-762-8484 WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

BAnFF’S IrISh pUB

banff dining

das, fried chicken, fiesta burger and burritos. Mains $13-$22. Taco and nacho menu from 11 pm. Bar with sport HDs. 11:30 am-2 am. 203 Caribou St, 403-762-4067. Map 3, 15N

sTeaks BuMPers The Beef house A tradition since 1975 with a new location. Alberta beef specialties and Banff’s only salad bar. Favourites: prime rib, ribeye and tenderloin steaks, chicken, baby back ribs and trout. Mains $13$40. Kid menu. Breakfast 6:30-10 am. Fireside Lounge with HD TVs, from 4 pm. Rundlestone Lodge, 537 Banff Ave, 403-762-2622. Map 3, 10J

Authentic Dublin Decor 24 Draught Beers • 30 Scotches • 8 Irish Whiskeys Traditional & Unique Fare • Live Entertainment 207 Wolf Street, Just West of Banff Avenue 403.762.9355 • stjamesgatebanff.com

A TASTE OF ThE rOCKIES

pub & Steakhouse - Families Welcome Casual restaurant - Sports on plasmas in pub 119 Banff Ave (above Ski hub)

403.762.4616 elkandoarsman.com Call for reservations 90

where.ca // baNff

The keG sTeakhouse & Bar Their motto is: "Great Steaks. Good Friends.” Friendly service in a casual atmosphere. AAA Alberta beef aged for tenderness and seared over high heat to lock in juices. Tasty seafood, chicken and ribs, plus signature desserts. Entrées $20-$47. Impressive breakfast buffet ($15.75) and lunch ($11-$32) at the Caribou Lodge location. Caribou Lodge, 521 Banff Ave, 403-762-4442 Map 3, 10J; and Downtown Keg, 117 Banff Ave, 403760-3030 Map 3, 17O. Melissa’s sTeakhouse & faMily resTauranT In a 1930 log building, locally owned Melissa’s has made quality food from scratch for 35 years. Breakfast: Swiss apple pancakes, omelettes and eggs Benedict, most $7-$14. Lunch: homemade burgers, hot turkey sandwich, brunch plates and deep dish pizza, most $8-$14. Mains ($17-$39; housemade burgers from $11; choose-your-own live lobster $45): AAA Alberta steaks (7 cuts; 4 sauces) and prime rib, salmon and pasta; with hot bread and salad. Child menu. 7 am-10 pm. 218 Lynx St (2 blocks west of Banff Ave), 403-762-5511. Map 3, 15N salTlik a rare sTeakhouse Black Angus, AAA and prime grade steaks seared at 1200°F for tender, flavourful results. Fresh salmon, BBQ ribs, hunter chicken and Kobe beef burgers. Mains $17-$38; sides/ starters $5-$15. Lunch/lounge menu: salads, sandwiches and steaks (mains $14-$27). Open-to-view wine cellar; 16 wines by the glass; 10 beers on tap. Attractive dining room with vaulted ceiling, fireplace and booths. Semi-private room. Main floor lounge with fireplace. Groups 8+ reserve. 221 Bear St, 403-762-2467. Map 3, 14N

canmore hot dining East Indian Scents spice hut (p 97) offers “authentic tastes,” says owner syed Jabran. and all who visit the restaurant are treated to the distinctive aromas created by their trademark blend of spices. syed suggests signature butter chicken in a tomato, butter and cream sauce, or chicken tikka Masala in onion, garlic and ginger sauce. —kirsten Varsek

Tableside Carvery

Awesome Appetizer Begin dinner with an enduring favourite. “The spring roll is the perfect guilty pleasure,” says kevin Bellis, owner of thai it up (p 97). the secret to the appetizer’s appeal is “the bite,” he notes. “the wrapper has to be deep fried until golden brown to get that crunch. the combination of soft cabbage with the unique texture of chinese wood ear mushrooms and mung bean noodles complete the package.” of course, cravings aren’t satisfied until the roll is dipped in sweet hoisin plum sauce. —kirsten Varsek

Sunday Tradition

photos: tiki Masala, Buffet & spring rolls: Jason roach

At Gaucho’s Brazilian Barbecue (p 96), traditionally dressed servers carve an array of tender meats on giant skewers right at customer tables—cuts of roasts are served rare to well done. Gaucho diners discover the traditions of Rodizio (steakhouse) and Churrasco (BBQ). Gaucho (South America cowboy) is the affectionate name of residents of Rio Grande do Sul—where Gaucho chef/ owner Ede Rodrigues was born. —Lisa Stephens

‘Brunch’ and ‘sunday’ go together like bacon and eggs. patrino’s steak house & pub (p 96) offer their 50+ item Brunch Buffet every sunday from 10 am to 2 pm. adults stack plates for a mere $16, children $10, while kids under 3 eat for free. chow choices change weekly making this buffet a repeat contender. —kirsten Varsek WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

canmore dining

Maps are on pages 122 and 126-127. Canadian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Family dining & Cafes . . . . . . . 94 International . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Steaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

Canadian Canmore Golf & Curling Club SandTraps offers mountain views, fireplace and vaulted ceiling. All day menu (mains $9-$13): salads, burgers (beef, tuna, veggie), flatbreads (Sicilian, Canadian, veggie), sandwiches, panini, cod or halibut fish and chips; gluten-free items. Specials 5-9 pm $11: Tue steak sandwich, Wed BBQ ribs, Thur fish and chips. Mon/Fri appies 20% off. Li’l Duffer’s meals $5-$7. Winter: Mon-Fri 11 am-2 pm and 59 pm; Sat-Sun for functions. 2000 8 Ave, 403-678-5959 ext 3. Map 4, 4E Delta Lodge At Kananaskis Seasons Steakhouse: Steaks, game, fish and seafood Fri-Sat 6-9 pm. Fireweed Grill: Mt Kidd view; Rocky Mountain fare; big breakfast, lunch and dinner menus. Grappa: Italian cuisine; open kitchen; Fri-Sat 5:30-9:30 pm. Huge Sunday Brunch: à la minute omelettes and Belgian waffles. Obsessions Deli & Chocolatier: sandwiches, stews and desserts. Big Horn Lounge and Woody’s Pub: casual fare and sport TVs. Child menus. Kananaskis Village, 403-591-6272. Map 1, 8I The Drake Inn & Pub Steaks and burgers, cobb chicken salad and pub favourites. Sat/Sun breakfast. Fireplaces, couches, mountain views. Heated patio. Families welcome to 10 pm. Often live music; Mon karaoke; Thurs and Sun DJ. 14 Satellite TVs with sports. 909 Railway Ave, 403678-5131. Map 4, 19H Georgetown Inn Pub Fireplace, climbing memorabilia and garden patio. From scratch: famous beer battered fish and chips (choose halibut or basa), steak and Guinness pie, beef stuffed Yorkshire pudding and 92

where.ca // canmore

Other Side of the Track Cross the TransCanada Hwy to discover these epicurean escapades off the beaten track: • The Iron Goat Pub & Grill (below) embraces ‘low and slow’. Lamb shanks braise for 12 hours, bison back ribs roast for five hours and chipotle mango duck wings confit cooks for three hours at a low temperature. • The French Quarter Café (p 96) promises the Big Easy. Shrimp Creole, sweet potato chicken and Louisiana bread pudding with whiskey sauce epitomize New Orleans. • La Belle Patate (below) brings Quebec to Canmore. Popular poutines are quintessential Montreal smoked meat and vegetarian chou chou. —Kirsten Varsek specials like Sunday lunch roast $15 and Friday chef’s choice mussels $10. Mains $11-$23. Breakfast includes stuffed French toast with real maple syrup. Families welcome. Winter 7:30 am-9 pm, to 10 pm Fri-Sat. 1101 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-3439. Map 4, 8I Habitat Restaurant & Bar Contemporary decor with leather booths and imaginative lighting. Inspired cuisine: cauliflower velcoute with confit duck roulade, Alberta beef tenderloin with cabernet jus, and stealhead salmon with maple smoked bacon (mains $22-$36). 3-course menu Wed-Sun $40. Breakfast $10-$15. Lunch $15-$21 plus specials. Lounge happy hour Mon-Fri 4-7 pm with $5 drinks and half price appies. Grande Rockies Resort, 901 Mountain St, 403-679-5228. Map 4, 8I The Grizzly Paw Brewing Co Hand-crafted beer (and sodas) in their in-house micro brewery: Powder Hound Pilsner, Beaver Tail Raspberry, Grumpy Bear Honey Wheat, Big Head Nut Brown and Rutting Elk Red. Halibut and chips, burgers (beef, chicken,

bison, veggie) and flatbread pizza; mains $13-$20. Beer infused BBQ and hot sauces. Families welcome to 10 pm; kids menu. Sports on 8 plasmas. Heated patio with plasmas, fireplace and BBQ. Bottle beer to go. Souvenirs. Winter: 11 am-mid, food to 10 pm; FriSat to 2 am, food to 11 pm. 622 Main St, 403-678-9983. Map 4, 20F The Iron Goat Pub & Grill Impressive timber frame restaurant with rundlestone fireplace, historic mining decor and tiered south facing patio with Three Sisters view. Contemporary cuisine and pub favourites: fire-grilled hand-cut steaks, housemade Kobe burgers, duck wings and daily local feature. Mains $10-$34. Gluten-free dishes. 600 bottle wine cellar. Private areas. Sports on 10 big TVs. 11 am-11 pm. Reservations recommended; large groups welcome. Full service restaurant-style catering. North of Hwy 1, 703 Benchlands Tr, 403-609-0222. Map 4, 9N La Belle Patate French Canadian fast food. Montreal smoked meat, handmade burgers, steamy hot dogs

photo: Duck wings, Iron Goat

Scan for CanmoreDining.com

and poutine. 11 am-9 pm; Sat-Sun from noon; closed Mon. 102 Boulder Cres, 403-678-0077. Map 4, 13O mine siDe Diner Pub fare includes East Coast donairs, poutine and sirloin steak sandwich ($10). Weekday soup and sandwich, $9. Breakfast to noon. 10 am-8 pm; pub to 2 am. Canmore Hotel, 738 Main St, 403678-5181. Map 4, 20D murrieta’s bar & Grill Mahogany accents, white linen tablecloths, open-to-view forno oven and mountain scenery. Fresh fare: creamy westcoast seafood chowder, tempura calamari, wood-fired flatbreads, lamb meatball spaghetti and AAA ribeye steak with choice of sauce. Cobb salad, burgers (try the bison) and sandwiches at lunch. Mains $11-$34. West Coast wines. Private room. Happy hour 4-7 pm in the lounge. 11 am-10 pm; Sun to 9 pm. 2nd floor, 737 Main St, 403-609-9500. Map 4, 20C rafter six ranCh resort Log walls, fireplace, cowboy carvings and stained-glass at Mad Trapper. ‘Cowboy Cuisine’ with daily specials: BBQ steaks, ribs, buffalo, chicken, trout and homemade pie. Country breakfasts. Call to confirm winter hours. 15 min E of Canmore, S of Hwy 1 at Rafter Six Ranch exit, 403-673-3622. Map 1, 8I saGe bistro & wine lounGe Contemporary Canadian cuisine with French and other worldly accents housed in a beautiful log structure. Local, seasonal ingredients are used to prepare dishes such as Alberta Berkshire pork, AAA Alberta beef/ game, Skuna Bay BC salmon, free-run heritage breed Alberta chicken and seafood risotto. Mains $17-$32. 5-10 pm; lunch 11:30 am-5 pm; Sat/Sun brunch 10 am-2 pm. upstairs Wine Lounge with great views; tapas style small plates, antipasto, charcuterie and cheese ($5-$25); 5 pm-mid. 1712 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-4878. Map 4, 6G stoney naKoDa resort & Casino The Ridge: all-you-can-eat dinner (Thurs-Sat 5-9 pm) and hot breakfast (Sat-Sun 7 am-noon) buffets; à la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm, Fri-Sun 7 am9 pm. Sidelines Lounge: 5 plasmas, entertainment and pub fare like bison burgers, Montreal-style poutine, pizza and ribs. Private dining room. Hwy 1 at Hwy 40, 15 min E of Canmore, 1-888-862-5632. Map 1, 8I

Voted the “Best Steak in the Bow Valley”. Serving only Canadian Prime Beef cooked to perfection. Wednesday – Sunday 5pm – 9pm 2000 Silvertip Trail, Canmore, AB 1.877.877.5444 silvertipresort.com

Stoney’s Bar and Grill The perfect place to unwind and enjoy the view.

Wednesday – Friday 11am – 9pm Saturday – Sunday 10am – 9pm 2000 Silvertip Trail, Canmore, AB 1.877.877.5444 silvertipresort.com WInTer 2013/14 //

where.ca

KNOCKOUT FLAVOURS

EXCLUSIVE

REMARKABLE FOOD

UNIQUE WINE LIST GOLD MEDAL PLATE WINNER

403.609.2530 1600 railway ave WWW.CRAZYWEED.CA

canmore dining

stoney’s bar & Grill Timber frame building with 6 plasmas and mountain view. Casual dining: butternut squash burger, fish tacos, chicken tikka wrap, Silvertip burgers and grilled flatbread pizza. Mains $10$24 plus upscale Rustica Steakhouse items. Lunch 'Tentastic' $10 menu Wed, Thurs and Sun: choice of 11 meals (an outstanding value). Weekend à la carte brunch. Winter Wed-Fri 11 am-9 pm, Sat-Sun 10 am-9 pm. Silvertip Resort, 2000 Silvertip Tr, 403-678-1600. Map 4, 3K the wanDerinG elK Comfortable family-friendly restaurant with hardwood floors, counter seats and Three Sisters view. Canadian fare featuring regionally raised organic meats: elk steak sandwich, portobello ribeye and shepherd’s pie (mains $12-$24). Schnitzel sandwich at lunch (mains $10 $14). Meal size salads. Windtower Lodge & Suites, 160 Kananaskis Wy, 403-609-6600. Map 4, 10K

Reservations 403-678-3612 100 – 1005 Cougar Creek Dr frenchquartercafe.ca

Aroma

Authentic Mexican Cuisine Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Take-out available 837 Main St • 403.675.9913 aromamexicanrestaurant.com

Chef’s Studio Japan Japanese Restaurant

Artfully Presented Cuisine

Lunch & dinner Take-out & delivery 403-609-8383 709 Main Street, at the back 94

where.ca // canmore

1704 Bow Valley Tr 403-678-3300 • bostonpizza.com CANMO RE

Dining guiDe 2013/14

boston Pizza Classic, gourmet, gluten-free and create-your-own pizzas and pastas, plus steaks, seafood, ribs, chicken, salads and sandwiches with Health Check options. Comfy and family-friendly with big screen TVs. Mains $11-$23; lunch $8-$12. Pasta Tues $10. Kid’s meals. Lounge and Patio. Take-out/delivery/online orders. 11 am-mid Sun-Thurs; Fri/Sat to 2 am. 1704 Bow Valley Tr, 403678-3300. Map 4, 6G CraiGs’ family restaurant Voted “Best breakfast in Canmore” by Canmore Leader readers. Fireplace, mountain view through big windows and a menu with a huge variety. Alberta beef dip, chicken, homemade burgers, steaks, pasta, salads, sandwiches, all-day breakfasts. Child menu. ‘Western Flavour at its Best’. 6 am-9 pm. 1727 Mountain Ave, 403-678-2656. Map 4, 4F harvest Cafe Hot meals, sandwiches, breakfasts, baked goods. Gluten-free options. 8:30 am-3 pm. 718 10 St, 403-678-3747. Map 4, 18D the marKet bistro at three sisters Open kitchen, wrap around

IN-DEPTH COVERAGE Widely available Pick up your copy today

Family dining & CaFes bella Crusta fooDs Focaccia sandwiches and pizzas with a choice of toppings. Daily specials. 10 am6 pm; closed Sun and holidays. 903 6 Ave, 403-609-3366. Map 4, 20D

FREE

A tempting selection of Canmore’s favourite restaurants

CanmoreDining.com canmoredining.com

LET YOUR TASTE BUDS GUIDE YOU 731 Railway Ave • Canmore, AB www.thaiitup.ca

403.675 THAI (8424)

canmore dining

windows, and counter and table seats. Fresh baked goods, soups, salads, sandwiches (including breakfast varieties), panini, pizza and glutenfree flatbreads. Tapas and weekend specials. Espresso bar, beer and wine. Children’s area. Live music. Winter: Tues-Wed 9 am-5 pm, to 8 pm Thur/ Sun, to 9 pm Fri/Sat, closed Mon. 102, 75 Dyrgas Gate (Mountaineer’s Village), 403-675-3006. Map 4, 19O McDonald’s McCafe espresso coffees, McBistro chicken sandwiches, Angus 1/3 pounders and real fruit smoothies are additions to the familiar menu. Lighter choice options include salads and oatmeal. Value items like coffee and muffin for $1.39 and healthy Happy Meals for kids for $3.99. Restaurant 5 am-mid. Drivethru 24-hrs. Free WiFi. 1731 Mountain Ave, 403-678-2558. Map 4, 4F Mountain Mercato Espresso bar and window seating. Grilled Italian meat and roasted veggie panini. Groceries and prepared foods to go, including Italian specialties. 817 Main St, 403-609-6631. Map 4, 20B Rocky Mountain Bagel Co Big choice of bagels, wraps, soups, salads, desserts and coffee. Lunch to go. Very popular with Canmore residents. 1306 Bow Valley Tr, 403-6789968. Map 4, 7H; and 830 Main St, 403-678-9978. Map 4, 20B Scoopin’ Moose Savoury and sweet crêpes including The Three Sisters (ham, spinach, cheddar) and Lady Mac (strawberries, whipped cream). More than 20 ice cream flavours. Homemade waffle cones and sundaes. Gluten-free options. Kid friendly. 11 am-9 pm (or later). 722 Main St, 403-621-1336. Map 4, 20D Starbucks Italian style coffee. Pastries. Windows on two sides, comfortable seats, WiFi. 1240 Railway Ave, 403-609-9552. Map 4, 8G Summit Cafe Counter service; Canadian and Mexican all day breakfasts and panini at lunch. 6:30 am-3:30 pm. 1001 Cougar Creek Dr, 403-609-2120. Map 4, 10M Valbella’s Deli, Bakery & Cafe “European classics meet Canadian favourites.” Café serves homemade

soups, sandwiches and daily specials. Take-out house-made hams, sausages and charcuterie, breads and pan-ready meals. Closed Sun/ hol. 104 Elk Run Blvd, 403-6789989. Map 4, 13O

International Aroma Authentic Mexican Cuisine Propietarios chef José Castillo and Laura Matamoros celebrate the joy and flavours of their native Mexico at this colorful 13-table restaurant. Meals (with 100% homemade sauces) are prepared fresh for every guest: seafood soup, enchiladas nortenas, relleno pobiano, cochinita pibil and halibut à la Veracruz. Gluten-free and vegetarian items. Mains $19-$26. Burrito and fajita taco lunch platters $14-$23. Mexican and Canadian breakfasts $7-$12. Kids menu $8.75. Catering and special occasion banquets. 837 Main St, 403-675-9913. Map 4, 20B Chef’s Studio Japan Traditional and western-style sushi, tempura, teriyaki and hot pots. Artistic presentations reflect the gallery setting (Japanese gifts and paintings for sale). Most mains $12-$19, combo platters $18-$56, lunch $9.50-$14. Japanese beer, sake and wine. Eat-in or take-out. 11:30 am-3 pm (Sat/Sun from noon) and 4:30 pm-10:30 pm. Delivery. 709 Main St (at the back), 403-609-8383. Map 4, 20E Chez François Restaurant & Wine Bar (French) The personal touch of chef/owner François and Sylvie since 1990. Lobster bisque, coquille St Jacques, AAA Alberta beef, duck à l’orange, daily catch, vegetarian dishes. Slow Food member to ‘protect the pleasures of the table.’ Gourmet breakfast 7 am-2 pm. Daily lunch $9-$15. Dinner 4-10 pm (closed Tues/Wed off season); mains $18$46; 3+ course prix fixe menu from $35. 1604 2 Ave (Bow Valley Tr), 403-678-6111. Map 4, 6H Crazyweed (World Cuisine) Highly regarded for its eclectic food and ambiance, and owner/chef/Gold Medal Plate winner Jan Hrabec’s expertise in the open kitchen. CBC Radio critic John Gilchrist said “10 out of 10.” Small plates like Vietnamese pork meatballs with lettuce wrap and chili lime dip. Feature pizza changes

Rustica (p 97) 3-course menu for 2 with Date Night $99 Canada Prime steaks and a bottle of wine.

Innovative “bistro fare” presented in a rustic log building

Wine Lounge

Assortment of tapas, charcuterie plates, cheese by the ounce. 20+ wines by the glass

1712 Bow Valley Tr, Canmore 403-678-4878 • sagebistro.ca WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

canmore dining

daily ($18). Big plates ($20-$29) like red seafood curry bowl with shrimp and scallops, and Sterling Silver beef ribeye chimmichurri. Sandwiches, flatbreads, curry and ribs ($10-$18) at lunch. Big windows, views and parking. 1600 Railway Ave (W end of street), 403-609-2530. Map 4, 6H

Experience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco, an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos.

Taste The Authentic Experience. 629 Main Street 403.678.9886

Prime Rib • Seafood • Pizza • Fine dining We deliver • Sunday Brunch Buffet 1602 Bow Valley Tr • 403-678-4060

famous Chinese restaurant Charming old home with tree trunk tables, Chinese art and fireplace. Szechuan and Peking fare: hot and sour soup, Buddha’s delight, lemon shrimp, salt and pepper squid, ginger beef, Mongolian curry chicken, hot pots and sizzling rice. Choose your spice level. Gluten-free items. Mains $11-$19. Combos for 1-8 people. Weekday lunch specials $10-$12. Take-out/delivery. Noon-2:30 pm (closed for lunch Mon and Wed) and 4:30 pm-10 pm. 702 10 St, 403-6789531 or 403-678-9535. Map 4, 18E frenCh Quarter Cafe (Cajun/ Creole) Cozy spot with fireplace and open kitchen where chef Michael Raso performs. Cajun and Creole cooking reminiscent of New Orleans. Seafood gumbo, pecan crusted catfish, blackened red snapper, Cajun chicken and sausage fettuccine, steak Neptune and jambalaya with hand-blended spices. Po-boy at lunch. Mains: breakfast $7-$14, lunch $10$13, dinner $20-$27. Tues 7 am-5 pm, Wed-Sat 7 am-9 pm, Sun 8 am-3 pm, closed Mon. Live jazz nights. Cooking classes every 2nd Tues 6:309:30 pm (reserve). 1005 Cougar Creek Dr, 403-678-3612. Map 4, 10M GauCho brazilian barbeCue Owner Ede Rodrigues offers Rodizio BBQ; chefs visit tables with daily cuts of Gaucho-sized meat skewers. Allyou-can-eat chicken (wings, breasts and hearts), parmesan beef, rosemary pork loin, marinated leg of lamb, slow-cooked beef ribs and thinly sliced rump steak. Open kitchen, sunny atrium and eclectic, modern decor. Take-out boxes, platters and catering. Prime meat and Brazilian specialty foods for sale. Lunch $14-$22 noon4 pm; dinner $37 5-9 pm. 629 Main St, 403-678-9886. Map 4, 20F inDoChine vietnamese fusion Cuisine Waterfall feature and fireplace lounge with big screens. Pho noodle soup with sliced beef ten-

>> 96

where.ca // canmore

Best new

derloin, spring rolls, skewers, satay prawns, curries, lemongrass chicken and vegetarian dishes; vermicelli or rice dishes and traditional sauces. Mains $12-$20; daily lunch specials. Vietnamese espresso and iced coffees. Take-out. Wed-Fri 11 am-9 pm, Sat/Sun noon-9 pm. Falcon Crest Lodge, 190 Kananaskis Way, 403675-3888. Map 4, 11K marra’s way sushi Chef Kiyo works in his open kitchen at this small, friendly restaurant. Choose from the display of ready-to-eat items ($3, $4, $6), 30+ seafood and vegetable sushi nigiri and rolls plus miso soup, spring rolls, gyoza and fried chicken. Winter Mon-Sat noon-9 pm. Late night menu 8 pm-midnight, Mar-Oct: goma-ae, tako kimchi, tonkatsu bite, teriyaki chicken. 1000 6 Ave, 403-609-0479. Map 4, 19F o bistro (French) Informal bistro. Bison flank steak with fleur de sel, wild boar short ribs, lamb bordelaise and seafood cioppino. Lunch from 11:30 am; dinner from 5:30 pm; brunch 10 am-2 pm Sat/Sun; closed Tues. 626 Main St, 403-678-3313. Map 4, 20F Patrinos steaK house & Pub (Greek/Italian/Canadian) ‘Fine’ family dining. Impressive dining area with mountain views. The Patrinos family offers meals to please all: Alberta Angus prime rib and steaks, Greek and Italian dishes (including pizza), and Canadian fare such as chicken, ribs, veal and seafood. Daily specials. Patrinos Pub: pool, big screen sports, darts, food/drink specials, Wed wings. Mains $12-$32; lunch $9-$12. Delivery after 5 pm. Mon-Sat from 10:30 am; Sun brunch buffet 9:30 am-2 pm (regular menu available). 1602 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-4060. Map 4, 6G PeKinG GinGer (Chinese) Authentic dining. Chinese art decor and over a decade of fine wok cooking. 100+ items: wor wonton soup, ginger beef, mu hsu pork, palace-style shrimp, ma po tofu, and many hot pots and plates. No MSG used. Licensed. Lunch buffet 11 am-2 pm Mon-Fri. Mains from $10. Take-out or delivery (free $35+ within 3 km); menu online. 11 am-8 pm (from noon Sat/ Sun/hol). 1702 Bow Valley Tr, 403678-3365. Map 4, 6G

Aroma (p 95) is Where's current 'best new restaurant' in the Rockies award recipient.

190 Kananaskis Way in Falcon Crest Lodge www.indochinecanmore.com

403-675-3888

the

GeorGetown Inn

Miner’s Lamp Pub “Best Fish n’ Chips in the Bow Valley” Stuffed French Toast 1101 Bow Valley Tr • 403.678.3439

Authentic eAst indiAn cuisine Daily 11 am -10 pm • Eat-in & Take-out

403.609.9997

1310 Bow Valley Tr by Ramada Inn

Where the Locals Eat

NMOR

Traditional Pub Fare with New World Flair 749 Railway Ave • 403-678-5168

canmore dining

rose & Crown (English/Canadian) Family restaurant: steak and kidney pie, fish and chips, bangers and mash, banquet burger, BBQ salmon Caesar, lamb stew, buffalo chicken wrap and specials. Mains $13-$22. Sunday eggs Benny brunch, 10 am-3 pm ($10$12). Separate pub: Big screens, pool, darts, Buck Hunter, PGA golf and 16 drafts. 11 am-2 am. 749 Railway Ave, 403-678-5168. Map 4, 20H sPiCe hut (East Indian) The only restaurant in Canmore for authentic East Indian tikka masala, curry, korma, tandoori, biryani and vindaloo dishes. Butter chicken, lamb jalfrezi, meat kababs and vegetarian dishes. Spices range from mild to hot. Mains $11 to $17; combos $19. Take-out and catering. Simple yet elegant interior with big windows and mountain views. 1310 Bow Valley Tr, 403-6099997. Map 4, 7H thai it uP Thai and world fusion from scratch by Canmore ‘Iron Chef’ Kevin Bellis. Crab cakes, pad Thai, beef pho, curries, butter chicken, bahn mi baguette and Thai poutine. Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Voted “best take out” and “best bang for your buck” by Rocky Mountain Outlook readers. Dine-in breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night at the Thai themed restaurant. Gourmet retail items. 731 Railway Ave, 403-675-8424. Map 4, 9H

ImpressIve vI ImpressI vIew, ArchIItecture, Arch food & servIce, rest estA Aur urA Ant-style cAterIng Lunch 11am-5pm • Dinner 5pm-11pm

703 Benchlands Tr 403-609-0222 • irongoat.ca

steaks rustiCa steaKhouse Vaulted timber decor with rundlestone fireplace and Mt Lady Macdonald views. Top grade Canada Prime beef (aged 40 days) is signature rub seasoned and grilled at 1500°F to seal flavours. Also popular is chef's daily seafood creation. Winter $99 ‘Date Night’ 3-course table d’hôte menu includes a bottle of wine. Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Voted “Best Steak in the Bow Valley” by Rocky Mountain Outlook readers. Private room for 12. Winter Wed-Sun 5-9 pm. Silvertip Resort, 2000 Silvertip Tr, 403-678-1600. Map 4, 3K viC’s steaKhouse & bar Mahogany finishes, stone fireplace and mountain view. Sterling Silver Alberta steaks and flatbread pizzas. Mains $15-$41. Sun brunch 10 am-2 pm ($22, 6-12 $12, -5 free). 6:30 am-11 am and 4 pm-10 pm, Fri/Sat lounge to mid. Radisson Hotel, 511 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-3625. Map 4, 9J

Western Flavour at its Best Steaks Burgers Pasta chicken Legendary Breakfasts Children’s menu Canmore

1727 Bow Valley Tr, 403-678-2656 WInTer 2013/14 //

where.ca

lake louise dining

Baker Creek Bistro Log cabin restaurant and fireplace lounge. Chef Nigel Walker’s housemade cuisine (mains $19-$38): lamb with balsamic jus and cheddar crisp, halibut poached in rosemary infused oil, and creamy tomato Roselline with ham and mozzarella. Lounge menu ($5-$16): duck poutine, bison burger and nachos. Breakfast: waffles, muesli and eggs Benedict. Fresh fruit pies. Canmore’s Grizzly Paw beer. 7:30-10:30 am and 3-9 pm. Bow Valley Pkwy, 10 km E of Lake Louise, 403-522-2182. Map 1, 6C Bill Peyto’s Cafe Timber framing and stone fireplace. Burgers, salads, pasta and specials like fish and chips, steaks and stirfry ($10-$20). Beer and wine. Breakfast: granola and yogurt parfait, bacon and eggs, and Cody scrambled eggs ($6-$12). Lounge upstairs. 7:30 am-9:30 pm. 203 Village Rd, 403-522-2200. Map 2, 19N Deer Lodge Log dining room with view. Rocky Mountain Cuisine using game from their own farm, wild BC fish and Alberta beef. Skuna Bay salmon with tomato, olive, caper relish; Alberta lamb rack with rosemary jus; rosehip glazed buffalo ribeye; butternut squash ravioli; red currant glazed caribou. Wine Spectator award. Mains $27-$39, 6-9 pm; breakfast $10-$17, 7-11 am; lunch/lounge $15$29, 11 am-10 pm. Upper Lake Louise, 403-522-3747. Map 2, 15C Eagle’s Eye At Kicking Horse Mountain Resort Ride the gondola to Canada’s highest elevation restaurant at 2350 m (7700 ft) with timber and stone decor, deck and awesome views. Rocky Mountain/ west coast cuisine. To Apr 20: Daily lunch 11 am-3:30 pm. Fri/Sat dinner from 5 pm, reservations required, free gondola ride. 1 hr W of Lk Louise near Golden, 1-866-754-5425. Map 1, 5J Emerald Lake Lodge Heritage lodge beside scenic Emerald Lake. At Mt Burgess Dining Room: Rocky Mountain Cuisine including Saskatoon berry game glazed elk striploin; braised buffalo short ribs with red wine reduction; Skuna Bay salmon with warm chili fennel jam. Wine Spectator award. Mains $29-$38; breakfast $11-$19. Yukon gold rush decor at Kicking Horse Lounge (mains $15-$29). 32 km (20 mi) W of Lake Louise, 1-800-663-6336. Map 2, 13K 98

where.ca // lake louise

Tea Served with a View The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (below) hosts Afternoon Tea (noon to 3 pm, $43) in the Fairview Dining Room; marvel at the impressive vista through 16 ft high windows. Order your blend and drink in views of the famous lake, glacier and peaks. Sparkling prosecco (upgrade to Moët et Chandon Ice for $12) and Cointreau sweetened fresh fruit is followed by finger sandwiches such as egg salad croissant, carrot and almond salad pinwheel and brie with apple chutney. The elegant service includes a buttermilk scone with Devonshire cream and strawberry preserves, and homemade pastries and sweets. —Lisa Stephens The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Poppy Brasserie: à la carte and buffet at breakfast. Fairview Dining Room (dinner Fri-Sun): local contemporary Canadian cuisine such as Brant Lake Wagyu beef striploin and BC ivory king salmon; 4-Diamond and Wine Spectator awards; elegant Afternoon Tea (noon-3 pm). Walliser Stube (Mon-Sat dinner): classic Swiss influenced menu; signature fondues and schnitzel. Glacier Saloon (Sat-Sun lunch and daily dinner): Alberta beef dip, steak sandwiches and ‘skillets’ to share; sports plasmas and pool table. Lakeview Lounge: light lunches; evening tapas. Chateau Deli (open 24 hrs): sandwiches, baking and coffee. Venues offer decors with charm and character; most boast stellar lake and glacier views; all have children menus. 403-522-3511. Map 2, 14C

Great Divide Lodge Informal dining with Wapta Lake, glacier and peaks view, a popular roadside stop. Finger foods, spaghetti Bolognese and daily specials (mains $15-$20). Breakfast and dinner. Hwy 1, 17 km W of Lake Louise, 250-343-6311. Map 2, 18H Javalanche Café Hot foods such as soups, chili and stews made daily, made-to-order sandwiches, fresh pastries, locally roasted espresso and Seattle’s Best coffee. Mountain view and friendly atmosphere. Free WiFi. 200 Village Rd (by the Husky Station), 403-522-3574. Map 2, 21M Laggan’s Bakery & Deli Fresh breads, pastries, cookies and squares. Breakfast on a bun, baguette and traditional sandwiches, wraps, soup, chili, hot food specials, flatbreads. Specialty

Mountain Restaurant coffee and tea. 7 am-6 pm. Samson Mall, 403-522-2017. Map 2, 20M Lake Louise inn Legends Restaurant: breakfast buffet $17, $13 Continental; and à la carte $13-$15. Lunch: tandoori chicken wrap, burgers and pulled pork sandwich $9-$15. Sun prime rib buffet dinner. Pizza and pasta at Timberwolf Cafe ($12-$22). Pub fare ($7-$24) at Explorers Lounge. 210 Village Rd, 403-522-3791. Map 2, 20N The Lake Louise sTaTion resTauranT Casual dining in the restored 1910 heritage railway station. Alberta steaks with peppercorn sauce or blue cheese, BC salmon, vegetarian lasagne, pasta and curry specials, pizza, and Alberta elk and bison burgers. Mains $18-$36; child menu $10. 1906 and 1925 railway cars for private groups of 2 to 28. From 4:30 pm; mid May from 11:30 am. 200 Sentinel Rd, 403-522-2600. Map 2, 19N mounTain resTauranT Family friendly with rustic carved pine decor and mountain views. Lunch and dinner (mains $10-$19): homemade burgers, hot sandwiches, fresh Canmore-made pasta, aged house-cut striploin steaks, pizza and Koreaninspired dishes. Weekday food and drink specials. All day breakfasts $10-$14. 200 Village Rd, 403-5223573. Map 2, 21M PosT hoTeL & sPa Fresh market cuisine in the 1940s log lodge. 2215 label, 22,950 bottle Wine Spectator Grand Award cellar. Innovatively prepared fish, game and Alberta beef; menus reflect in-season ingredients. A la carte and cold buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner (entrées $37-$55). 6-course tasting menu ($110). Four Diamond Award. 200 Pipestone Rd, 403-522-3989. Map 2, 20M TraiLheaD CaFe Talented baristas; whole leaf teas. Made-to-order hot and cold sandwiches and wraps. Breakfast wraps all day; omelettes and French toast to 11 am. Mains $6-$9. 7 am-6 pm. Samson Mall, 403-522-2006. Map 2, 20M viLLaGe GriLL & Bar Family restaurant. Salads, burgers, sandwiches, Chinese food, steaks, salmon, chicken and specials $8-$19. All day breakfast $13; Mon $7. 11 am-8 pm. Samson Mall, 403-522-3879. Map 2, 20M

International Cuisine

•

Fantastic View

403-522-3573 mountainrestaurant.ca Javalanche Café Seattle’s Best Coffee, fresh baking & sandwiches made to order. Free Wi-Fi

403-522-3574

Both located adjacent to Husky Gas Station 200 Village Road Lake Louise BC ROCKIES

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2013/14

JAS PER

MAP MAP

LOUISE BANFF • LAKE

2013/14

2012/13

golden • invermer e radium • panoram a fa i r m o n t • k i m b e r l e y cranbrook • fernie elkford • sparwoo d

site banff town e lake louise villag park banff national ies canadian rock

town of Jasper Jasper vicinity downtown Jasper Jasper national park canadian rockies

Best Maps Large topographic maps for driving, walking & skiing

FREE Widely available Pick up your copy today

Great Food at Affordable Prices Breakfast • Lunch Dinner • Patio Licensed HI - Lake Louise Alpine Centre 203 Village Rd, Lake Louise

403-522-2201 • hihostels.ca WiNTeR 2013/14 //

where.ca

jasper area hot sights

by kirsten varsek

Loni’s Cross Country Ski Trail Picks Jasper trail alliance leader and former olympian Loni klettl recommends these tracks: • athabasca Falls to geraldine Lakes: the • new! Decogine and pyramid Lake: drive along the icefields pkwy to the access to north boundary, south Jasper trailhead, the frozen Falls and the climb and tonquin valley areas are closed until to geraldine Lakes all offer superb views. February to protect caribou, but Loni is excited about the new Decoigne and • Maligne Lake and bald hills: “this is the expanded pyramid Lake tracks. Decoigne, heart of winter,” says Loni. “The Maligne 22 km west of Jasper along hwy 16, area offers the elevation, terrain, snow features a warming shelter, fire pit and 18 and views needed for off-piste skiing; km of trails along a former pipeline route. it’s one big beautiful package.”

Jewel of a View Vintage cognac, a roaring fire and the dazzling vista of Lac beauvert and whistlers Mountain…sound appealing? the Fairmont Jasper park emerald Lounge (p 117) offers a memorable après ski.

Whitewashed Fun Active Antiquity renowned for its summer turquoise waters, Maligne Lake’s wintertime snowbleached canvas also offers a worthwhile experience. tourism Jasper’s sarah Culley suggests cross-country skiing the lake’s shores, or snowshoeing the Moose Lake Loop. she also recommends sightseeing en route to the lake (tours, p 108). Fun Fact: watch for locals riding the latest in fat-tire bikes cycling on the Lake. 100

where.ca // jasper

nature is great and all. but if pool halls, illicit liquor, $1.50 hotel rooms and Royaltyapproved post offices intrigue you, pick up A Walk in the Past brochure from the Friends of Jasper (p 107) and take yourself on a self-guided tour around town.

photos: skiing, Loni kLettL; snowshoeing, traveL aLberta

visit Jasper trail alliance’s Facebook page for condition updates from Loni and others.

jasper area sightseeing

Downtown Walk Jasper Townsite Tour After seeing the rustic 1914 Jasper Information Centre (Map 5, 15N), cross Miette Ave to visit Whistlers Inn’s lower level Den Wildlife Museum animal specimens. Cross Connaught Dr to Jasper Heritage Railway Station, a working station since 1925 and designated historic site for its Arts and Crafts architecture; there are the Two Brothers totem pole and 1923 CNR steam locomotive 6015 out front. After coffee at The Other Paw, follow Discovery Trail that circles town. Walk as much of the 8.3 km (5.1 mi) loop as you like—the trail’s three sections have signs that interpret railway history (go southwest), peaks and people (go northwest), and nature (other side of town). Back downtown, find the Old Firehall across Patricia St. North on Patricia St and left on Pyramid Lake Rd is the charming wood, red brick and stone Jasper Lutheran Church, the town’s oldest. Continue past the Jasper Activity Centre and turn left onto Bonhomme St where across from Jasper Aquatic Centre is Jasper-Yellowhead Museum with fur trade, mountaineering and park history exhibits. Return to Patricia St and Connaught Dr for downtown shopping, dining and pubs.

photo: Athabasca Falls, Chris Stubbs / Wikimedia

Driving Tours Icefields Parkway The journey to the Columbia Icefield and Sunwapta Pass (105 km/65 mi) is one of the world’s most spectacular drives. Follow Connaught Dr west out of town across Hwy 16 (Map 5, 21J); the road becomes the Icefields Parkway (Hwy 93). Watch for elk and other animals soon after leaving town. To the left is Wabasso Campground cross-country ski trails. At Athabasca Falls (31 km/ 19 mi) the river is forced through a narrow canyon and over a cliff; walk the short interpretive trail. Seven km (4.3 mi) farther south is Goat Lookout with Mt Kerkeslin view; natural salt licks attract mountain goats. Continue to Sunwapta Falls (53 km/33 mi) where a footbridge provides the best view; walk downstream along the canyon rim. As the highway climbs, a pullout on the right provides a view of frozen Tangle Falls (96 km/60 mi) where Beauty Creek tumbles down a limestone wall. Bighorn sheep often herd where the road crests, while across the valley Stutfield Glacier

Frozen in Time The ice, rock and frigid waters of Athabasca Falls in winter is a site worth seeing. Walks & Talks Jasper (p 108) owner and guide Paula Beauchamp notes, “The Falls are rushing movement frozen in time; there’s a silence people appreciate.” —Kirsten Varsek spills over the mountain’s ridge. Next stop is the Columbia Icefield (103 km/ 64 mi), one of the largest accumulations of ice south of the Arctic, 215 sq km (83 sq mi) and up to 365 m (1200 ft) deep. Its meltwaters flow west to the Pacific, north to the Arctic, and east to Hudson’s Bay and the Atlantic. This hydrological apex is one of two in the world. Six major glaciers flow from the Icefield—at the Athabasca Glacier you can walk to the glacier toe. Four km (2.5 mi) south of the Icefield is Sunwapta Pass. Jasper National Park ends and Banff National Park begins; drive 122 km (76 mi) further to Lake Louise (route description, p 33). Maligne Lake Road Jasper to Maligne Lake (48 km/30 mi) is popular for its natural beauty and wildlife watching opportunities. From town, take Yellowhead Hwy 16 2 km (1.2 mi) east; elk and bighorn sheep often graze roadside. Turn right at Maligne Rd, cross the Athabasca River and turn right on Lodge Rd toward Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Stroll the 1.5 km (.9 mi) loop trail around Lac Beauvert, go ice skating or enjoy a drink in the lounge with sublime view. Return to Maligne Lake Rd and turn right. At Maligne Canyon 5th Bridge the famous icewalk begins—some venture on their own, but a guided

tour is recommended. An interpretive trail parallels the Canyon rim. The road then climbs to and continues alongside Medicine Lake 32 km (19 mi) from Jasper; pullouts afford Maligne Range views and signs describing the drainage system that causes the lake to seasonally ‘disappear’. The road ends at mountain-ringed, glacier-fed Maligne Lake, largest natural lake in the Canadian Rockies and popular for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing. Pyramid Lake Road Turn left off Connaught Dr onto 7.5 km (4.7 mi) Pyramid Lake Rd (Map 5, 14N). Two km (1.2 mi) past Bonhomme St is Cottonwood Slough wetlands, one place amongst many to access trails that traverse Pyramid Bench, the forested ridge northeast of town. At 4.8 km (3 mi) is Patricia Lake—walk or snowshoe the lakeshore portion of Patricia Lake Loop trail and read the plaque describing an experimental iceberg aircraft landing strip built here in WW II. End of the line is Pyramid Lake, with snowshoeing terrain, cross-country ski trails and lakeside dining at The Pines. Reach tranquil Pyramid Island (Map 5, 1H) by footbridge—read the interpretive panels, enjoy the stellar views of aptly named Pyramid Mountain, and light a bonfire in a fire ring (bring smokies and marshmallows).

Celebrates anniversaries: Marmot Basin (50th), Jasper in January (25th), Friends EVENTS Jasper of Jasper National Park (30th). Events are listed p 102-103; also JasperCelebrates.com WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

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jasper Art & entertainment Artists Guild displays; artist reception May 18, 3-5 pm. Events: To Mar 25 Coffee Hour Tuesdays Join Museum staff 10:30 am for an hour of historical interest. Gift shop. Archives (by appt). Thurs-Sun 10 am-5 pm. $6, sen/stu $5, family $13, -6 free, group discounts. 400 Bonhomme St, 780852-3013. Map 5, 14K Leona Amann Studio & Art Gallery Jasper artist Leona Amann uses bold colour and patterns to capture her vision of the Rockies. See Amann at work and purchase her original paintings, box prints and cards. Other local art includes glass sculptures by Melanie Rowe, Julie McMath pottery and quilts by Romi. Winter Thurs-Sun 1-6 pm and by appt. Lower level, 618C Connaught Dr, 780-852-8289. Map 5, 16N

Jasper Artist Guild co-founder Claude Boocock explores the raven’s playful and opportunistic attributes in her A Raven Folly exhibition at the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum (below), Apr 4-27. The whimsical paintings, sketches and sculptures capture your attention just as a cheeky raven’s caw does in the wild. —Lisa Stephens Art & Museums Den Wildlife Museum 130 Canadian bird and animal specimens in panoramic cases that resemble natural settings. 7 am-11 pm. $3, family $6. Connaught Dr at Miette St, 780-852-3361. Map 5, 15N JAG Gallery Jasper Artist Guild (JAG) works in many styles by seasoned and emerging local artists. At this non-profit gallery with a mandate to “promote visual arts in Jasper,” JAG artists are often on site to greet visitors. (In 2014 moving to new Library & Cultural Ctr, 500 Robson St, Map 5, 15M.) Temporarily at Hangout Gallery, above Snowdome Café, 607 Patricia St, 780-852-1994. Map 5, 16M Jasper-Yellowhead Museum Jasper’s history from 10,000 years ago to 107 years as a National Park. Historical Gallery: Displays on the 102

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fur trade, railway, tourism, wardens and townsite development. Guide Curly Phillip’s hand-built cedar canoe, beaded deerskin jacket owned by Métis advocate Suzette Swift, and the ‘silver’ ice axe lost during the 1925 ascent of Mt Alberta. Alcove Gallery: Jan-Apr The Tracks Left Behind: Celebrating Marmot Basin's 50th Anniversary. Showcase Gallery: To Dec 14 Festival of Trees Decorative displays and charity auction. Jan 2-26 Then & Now Changes over the decades in Jasper; plus Paulette Dube images that highlight Jasper's natural heritage. Feb 6-Mar 30 Making Their Mark: Alberta Land Surveyors The history of surveying from early explorers, through 1883 when a world record 27-million acres was subdivided, through boom and bust years of 1905 to 1947 to the present day. Apr 4-27 A Raven Folley See 'Trickster Ravens' sidebar above. May 3-31 Lake Edith

Our Native Land Canadian Native and Inuit art (lower level with museum-quality items). Handmade moccasins, dolls, masks and totems. Carvings in soapstone, bone, antler, wood and jade. Royal Canadian Mint watches. Ammolite, amber and JewelPop Kameleon jewellery. Mammoth tusk fossils. Clothing, books and postcards. Shipping. 601 Patricia St, 780-852-5592. Map 5, 15N

FESTIVALS & EVENTS Charity Masquerade Ball Mar 8 A salute to the 50th anniversary of Marmot Basin hosted by the Jasper Rotary Club (clubrunner.ca/jasper). Champagne, 4-course dinner, entertainment and silent auction (6 pm) at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Map 5, 7I Community Christmas Sing-along Dec 9, free. Jasper Theatre Co's A Christmas Carol dinner theatre Dec 13, $55. Christmas Party Dec 20, $30.

photo: 'A Raven Folley' by Claude Boocock

Trickster Ravens

Mountain Galleries at The Fairmont—Jasper Park Lodge Canadian fine art since 1992. Owner/ curator/artist Wendy Wacko conveys a unique perspective through the collection of paintings that range from abstract impressionism to magic realism with a focus on wilderness landscapes. Museum quality glass, clay, stone and bronze sculptures. Inuit prints and carvings. Guaranteed worldwide shipping. Wild & Sacred Places is their ongoing theme. Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 1 Old Lodge Rd, 780-852-5378. Map 5, 7I

Jasper Activity Centre, 303 Bonhomme St, 780-852-3381. Map 5, 14L FESTIVAL OF TREES To Dec 14 Bid on decorated trees to support Museum and Community Dinner Program. Free. Thurs-Sun 10 am-5 pm. JasperYellowhead Museum, 400 Bonhomme St, 780-852-3013. Map 5, 14K FRIENDS OF JASPER Ongoing SelfGuided Walk in the Past Pick up guide/ map to 15 historic buildings and borrow Hiking Kits with binoculars, first aid kit and more. Dec 14 Christmas Bird Count (9 am). To celebrate their 30th anniversary, they are offering monthly programs: Dec 14 Skating Party at Pyramid Lake (2-4 pm); Jan 19 Maligne Canyon Ice Walk (11:30 am-1:30 pm); Feb 13 Full Moon Ski (6:30-8:30 pm); Mar 22 Historical Lantern Tour downtown stroll with stories (6:30-8 pm); and May 14 Full Moon Hike (10 pm). May-June Birdwatching (Sun, 8 am). Free tickets (or donation): Friends Store, Jasper Info Centre, 500 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4767. Map 5, 14N JASPER Celebrates This year marks many anniversaries in Jasper: 50th for Marmot Basin, 25th for Jasper In January, 30th for Friends of Jasper and more. Events listed in the section; also visit jaspercelebrates.com or call Jasper Tourism at 780-852-3858.

Artists Salute Marmot Basin To honour Marmot Basin’s 50th anniversary, Mountain Galleries at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge (p 102) hosts a winter-long exhibition of paintings inspired by the ski area. Canadian artists Jim Vest, Nicholas Bott and Linda Wilder are represented; Bruce Lawes contributed a limited edition print. Gallery owner Wendy Wacko mounted this tribute because “Jasper is a ski town; during snow season Marmot Basin is the focal point of our community.” —JW MARMOT BASIN SKI AREA EVENTS 50th anniversary. Races and fun events online. Monthly Marmot Challenge teams of 5 races. Jan 17-Feb 2 reduced lift rates. Jan 19 Family Fun Ski Race. Jan 25 Terrain Park Party & Rail Jam. Jan 26 Scavenger Hunt. Jan 28 Senior's Tea at the Top. Feb 1 Avalanche Awareness Day talk, search dog and explosives demo. Feb 28 Pajama Day Race. Apr TBA Aloha Cup tropical clothes and race. 780-852-3816. Map 5, 17B

JASPER IN JANUARY Jan 17-Feb 2 25th anniversary celebrations. Ski lift and hotel discounts. Winterstruck at Pyramid Lake with dogsledding, ice skating, bocce, bannock bake (Jan 18, 11 am-3 pm; free); Chili Cook-Off at Jasper Activity Ctr (Jan 24, 6-11 pm; $15); Street Party on Patricia with live music, ice bar, Walk of Lights, fireworks (Jan 25, 6-9 pm; free); Marmot Basin scavenger hunt (Jan 26, 9 am-2 pm; free); Hops & Scotch tastings and appies at Sawridge Inn (Jan 31, 6-9:30 pm; $26); Wine in Winter food and wine at Chateau Jasper (Jan 31, 7-10 pm; $30), Winter Pentathlon family bike, x-c ski, snowshoe, skate and run at Jasper Aquatic Ctr (11 am); plus live music, snow sculptures, polar bear dip. Schedule posted online and around town. 780-852-3858.

MOVIES

JASPER PRIDE Festival Mar 21-23 5th anniversary. Gay pride fun run, ski, snowshoe, ice walk and Pride Gala Party (Mar 22) with live music and drag performances at The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Info: 780-852-5274.

CHABA THEATRE First-run movies. Sept-May usually Fri/Sat 7 pm and 9 pm; Sun-Thurs 8 pm; kid’s matinees some Sat/Sun. $10, yth $8, sen $7, ch $5; 3D $3 extra, cheap Tues. 604 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4749 (24hour info). Map 5, 16N

Santa Train Dec 3 10th Anniversary. Return trip Jasper to 'North Pole' ($12.50, ch $7.50; departs 9:30 am and 3 pm). Heritage Train Station, 1-888-842-7245. Map 5, 15N SPRING RUN OFF May 11 Ten km race. Totem Ski Shop, 408 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3078. Map 5, 14N

Nightlife The Atha-B Atha-B Nightclub has a request DJ Fri-Sat, occasional live bands, 90" sport TV, daily beer specials. Jan-May: In the Spotlight solo musicians perform Thurs 4-7 pm. Nov-Apr: Sin Sunday industry night. Heritage Trophy Room has a pool table. O'Shea's Lounge boasts Jasper’s only VLTs, big fireplace and 65" to 90" sport TVs. All venues: happy hr 4-7 pm, 5-8 pm Fri. 510 Patricia St, 780-852-3386. Map 5, 15M Best Western Jasper Inn Renovated Inn Restaurant Lounge has 70" sports TVs, a creative food menu and tables with high seats. 98 Geikie Street, 780-852-3232. Map 5, 10M Champs Lounge Relaxed setting; pub fare; big screen sports; free pool daily. Wed karaoke, 35¢ wings, $12.50 Kokanee pitchers. Thurs dart night. Sun Lodgie Night: $18 buckets of Kokanee or Bud, 50% off most menu items and ski/boarding movies. Sawridge Inn, 76 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5111. Map 5, 8N continued on page 115 winter 2013/14 //

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By Kirsten Varsek

Attainable Pursuit Certified Mountain Guide Peter Amann (p 108) has taught waterfall ice climbing for nearly 40 years. “People are amazed at what they can accomplish using these specialized and sharp ice tools.” Peter takes participants into “neat and narrow” Gorby Canyon, that offers a series of short climbs and more solitude than popular Maligne Canyon. By day’s end clients know how to use foot crampons and curved hand picks as well as techniques to successfully climb without strain.

Creature Comforts

Snowy Safari Winter is an unexpectedly generous season for spotting wildlife. Retired, 37-year Jasper National Park warden Wes Bradford notes that tracks in the snow confirm the presence of elusive animals like lynx, wolf, pine marten and wolverine. Solitary coyotes and moose are easier to spot, while elk and bighorn sheep that congregate in open roadside areas offer prime viewing opportunities. SunDog Tours (p 108) Wildlife Discovery expeditions allow participants to benefit from lead guide Wes’ vast knowledge. 104

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Maligne Canyon Makeover In the summer of 2012, Maligne Canyon’s roaring river hit a record high. Coursing water and gravel carved sinkholes and other new features, and revealed more fossils. These are best viewed during winter months when the riverbed is frozen. “There are hanging ice shelves that you can walk under,” says Trevor Lescard of Maligne Adventures (p 105). “But only do this if you’re with a licenced guide.” Jasper ice walk outfitters provide visitors with waterproof boots, ice cleats, poles and headlamps (for night tours), and their guides know the terrain, are first aid certified and carry safety gear.

PhoToS: CoyoTe, JASPeR TouRISM; MALIgNe CANyoN, CANADIAN TouRISM CoMMISSIoN

It may be more interesting to interact with the friendly huskies and drive the sled, but take a minute to think about Cold Fire Creek’s (p 106) attentiveness to keeping you warm. Sleeping bags keep you toasty in the sled, while cozy fireside lunches include campfire-cooked sausages, homemade cookies, fresh fruit and hot apple cider.

jasper area activities, tours & adventures

Maps are on pages 122 and 128-129. Activity Booking . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Canyon Ice walks . . . . . . . . . . 105 X-C Ski & Snowshoe . . . . . . . . 105 Dog Sled Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Heli tours & Skiing . . . . . . . . . 106 Ice Skating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Sightseeing Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Sightseeing Tours . . . . . . . . . . 107 Skiing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Sleigh Rides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Spas & hot springs . . . . . . . . . 109 Swim/Fitness/Curling . . . . . 109 Zipline Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109

For more listings/links scan this code or key in where.ca/canadianrockies

Activity Booking Maligne Adventures Bookings for Maligne Canyon ice walks, snowshoeing and wildlife tours. Inquire about summer activities. 616 Patricia St, 780-852-3370. Map 5, 16M SunDog Tours / Jasper Adventure Centre Jasper area sightseeing, wildlife discovery, train tour, canyon ice walk, snowshoeing, dog sledding and West Edmonton Mall day trip. Jasper-Banff and JasperEdmonton Connectors. Calgary and Edmonton airport transfers. Summer activity reservations. 414 Connaught Dr, 1-877-852-5595. Map 5, 14N

photo: Massage, Reflections Spa

Canyon Ice Walks Maligne Canyon Jasper Park’s deepest canyon is a raging torrent in summer—in winter it’s a wonderland of ice caves, frozen waterfalls, towering limestone and huge sinkholes in fantastic shades of blue and green. The Maligne Canyon ice walk, a thrilling guided tour of the canyon, is the highlight of many Jasper visits. Maligne Adventures Maligne Canyon Icewalk 3-hr interpretive tour includes guide, transport, waterproof

35th

boots, and ice-gripping ‘super soles’. 9 am, 1 pm, 6 pm (with head lamp); $59, $29.50 7-14. 616 Patricia St, 780-852-3370. Map 5, 16M SunDog Tours / Jasper Adventure Centre 3-hr ice walks at Maligne Canyon with boots, cleats, transportation and guide. Night tour includes use of a head lamp. Departs Jasper 10 am, 2 pm and 7 pm; $59, $29 -12. 414 Connaught Dr, 1-877852-5595. Map 5, 14N

X-C Ski & Snowshoe Cross-Country Ski & Snowshoe Rentals Edge Control, 626 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4945 Map 5, 16N; Everest Outdoor Stores, 414 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5902 Map 5, 14N; Gravity Gear, 618 Patricia St, 780-852-3155 Map 5, 16M; Jasper Source for Sports, 406 Patricia St, 780-852-3654 Map 5, 14M; On-Line Sport, 600 Patricia St, 780-852-3630 Map 5, 16M; Skis Please, 618 Connaught Dr, 780-931-7547. Map 5, 16N; Totem Ski Shop, 408 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3078 Map 5, 14N. Cross-Country Ski Trails Parks Canada grooms these trails for skate and classic skiers: • Icefields Parkway/Hwy 93A: South of town is Whistlers Campground (Map 5, 10E), an easy 4.5 km /2.8 mi partially lit night loop. Turn right on Hwy 93A and go past Marmot Basin Rd to uphill and unplowed 11.6 km/7 mi Cavell Rd (Map 5, 21D, opens Feb 15) that offers an exhilarating return. Farther south on Hwy 93A the plowed road ends at 9 km/5.6 mi Whirlpool Trail—first easy, then moderate as it rolls and climbs to Moab Lake. Sharing the same trailhead, moderate 10.5 km/6.5 mi Leach Lake rewards with Mt Hardisty and Kerkeslin views as it approaches Athabasca Falls; it connects to challenging 11.6 km/7 mi and occasionally track-set 6 km/3.7 mi Geraldine Rd, that rises to Geraldine Lakes. • Pyramid Bench The plateau north of town has trails near Patricia and Pyramid Lakes plus groomed Pyramid Fire Rd (Map 5, 1P), a challenging 15 km/9.3 mi trail with views from the shoulder of Pyramid Mountain. • Maligne Lake Rd From Hwy 16 (Map 5, 4J) go south 29 km/18 mi to occasionally track-set Summit Lakes, an easy 10 km (6 mi) round

Body Break Sore muscles from skiing or stressful backlog of emails? A massage at one of Jasper's spas (p 109) is the remedy! • A relaxation massage gently stimulates circulation throughout the body, aids in lymphatic drainage and lifts anxiety. • Deeper therapeutic massage helps muscle recovery from sport induced soreness or injury. • A hot stone massage elicits the penetrating reach of a therapeutic massage (through heat, not pressure) and the circulatory benefits of a relaxation treatment. —Kirsten Varsek trail between the Colin and Queen Elizabeth ranges to Beaver and two Summit Lakes. Farther up the road 48 km/30 mi from town is Maligne Lake (Map 1, 4M) with good snow and 20 km/12 mi of occasionally groomed easy-moderate trails plus ski touring and telemarking at Bald Hills. • Decogine Winter Use Area 22 km/ 13 mi west of town via Hwy 16 are 15 km/9.3 mi of pipeline right-ofway trails with a warming hut and

Blair Timmins opened Edge Control Ski Shop in 1978; he's offered high-tech gear and tunes since. In 1980, Blair and buddies created Ski Canada magazine's annual ski test program. WINTER 2013/14 //

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jasper area activities, tours & adventures

fire pit. This area is new this year. Visit Jasper Information Centre (500 Connaught Dr, 780-852-6176, Map 5, 15N) for trail suggestions, maps and snow reports. Maligne adventures Guided half-day snowshoeing treks with professional instructor, gear (snowshoes, boots and poles are included) and transport (Tues/Sat 8:30 am; $69, ch $40). 616 Patricia St, 780852-3370. Map 5, 16M

robson heliMagiC Helicopter past Emperor Falls to Berg Lake by Mt Robson, highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Guided snowshoe (no experience necessary) and picnic lunch in a rustic chalet ($349). Transport from Jasper to 1 hour west arranged. Hwy 5N, 1-877-454-4700. Map 1, 2N sundog tours / Jasper adventure Centre Guided snowshoe tours to Portal Creek, Pyramid Bench, and other areas depending on snow

conditions and wildlife sighting opportunities (3 hrs; 9 am and 1 pm; $69, $30 ch -15). 414 Connaught Dr, 1-877-852-5595. Map 5, 14N walks & talks Jasper Guide Paula Beauchamp leads her Mysterious Maligne Valley tour. Walk the rim of Maligne Canyon, stop at ‘disappearing’ Medicine Lake and snowshoe or x-c ski at Maligne Lake; 3-4 hrs, 9:30 am/1:30 pm; $70. Easy Cross-Country Skiing Adventures go to Palisades Fire Rd, Pyramid Lake, Moab Lake, Meeting of the Waters or Wabasso Campground; $60. Transport, gear and tax included. Child and family rates. 626 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4994. Map 5, 16N

Dog sleD tours Cold Fire Creek dogsledding Ride century old trap line trails aboard a 2-person (plus child) sled pulled by 6 to 8 Alaskan huskies (some retired racers). Drive-your-own-team or relax-as-a-passenger guided tours: 60 Minute Musher ($135, 6-12 $80, -6 $37.50). Moonshiners of Whiskey Creek (3 hrs; $245, 6-12 $165, -6 $99) and Ghost of Cold Fire Creek to a backcountry cabin (4.5 hrs; $350, -13 $240) both include bonfire and fire-roasted sausage lunch. Go past Mt Robson (highest peak in the Canadian Rockies) en route to the trailhead. Hwy 16, 120 km (75 mi) west of Jasper town (shuttle option), 1-877-295-8505. Map 1, 2N

heli tours & skiing Cariboo snowCat skiing Bowl and glade runs to 3000 vertical feet for intermediate/advanced skiers ($475): lunch, guide, avalanche gear. Powder ski/board rental $25. SunDog Tours offers shuttles from Jasper. 101 km/63 mi (1 hour) west of Jasper, 1-866-766-9228. Map 1, 1N

Canyon Icewalks, Wildlife Discovery, Train Trips, Dogsledding, Sightseeing, Snowshoeing

780-852-4056 • 1-877-852-5595 414 Connaught Drive (Main St) Beside CIBC Bank www.sundogtours.com info@sundogtours.com 106

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high Country heliCopters Rocky Mountain Odyssey over the Athabasca Valley and the Eastern Slopes ($165). Peaks & Passes flies the Rockies and explores Moosehorn Valley ($265). Maligne Lake Adventure (1 hr, $525). Mt Robson (1.5 hr, $785). Custom itineraries for weddings and special events. Min 3 passengers. Airplane charters available. Reserve. 1-877-777-4354. Map 1, 4O Mike wiegele heliski Multi-day packages and daily heli-skiing as space allows; 2 hr west of Jasper at Blue River, 250-673-8381. Map 1, 2L

ice skAting Jasper aCtivity Centre Indoor rink for public skating (call for times; $3.50, $1.75 yth/sen) and drop-in hockey (Mon-Thurs noon-1:15 pm; $8, yth $5.50). 303 Bonhomme St, 780-852-3381. Map 5, 14L Jasper sourCe For sports Skate rentals (men, women and kids) $10 day. Hockey sticks sold. 406 Patricia St, 780-852-3654. Map 5, 14M the FairMont Jasper park lodge Zamboni groomed outdoor rinks on Lac Beauvert and Lake Mildred (hockey rink and skating oval). Weekend bonfires and hot chocolate. Skate rentals at the Main Lodge. 1 old Lodge Rd, 780-852-3301. Map 5, 7I

sightseeing lift Jasper traMway Re-opens for the 2014 season on Apr 18: Canada’s longest and highest guided aerial tramway tour goes to 2300 m (7500 ft) on Whistlers Mtn. See 6 mountain ranges, Mt Robson, glacier lakes, rivers and Jasper townsite. Summit walks, stores and Treeline Restaurant. 10 min south of town via the Icefields Pkwy, 780-852-3093. Map 5, 9C

the spa | R e f l e c t i o n s Revive, rejuvenate, reflect.

fairmont.com/jasper 780 852 6014

sightseeing tours Car rentals Avis, SunDog Tours, 414 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3970 Map 5, 14N; Budget, Jasper Shell, 638 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3222 Map 5, 16N; Train/Bus Station Map 5, 15N —Hertz (Mar-Nov), 780-852-3888; and National/Alamo, 780-852-1117. Friends oF Jasper national park Free program passes at their stores. Borrow Hiking Kits with binoculars and first aid kit. Self Guided Walk in the Past free guide to 15 historic buildings. Celebrate their 30th anniversary at: Sunday Skating Party at Pyramid Lake (Dec 14, 2-4 pm); Maligne Canyon Ice Walk (Jan 19, 11:30 am-1:30 pm); Full Moon Ski (Feb 13, 6:30-8:30 pm); Historical Lantern Tour downtown stroll with stories (Mar 22, 6:30-8 pm); and Full Moon Hike (May 14, 10 pm). Birdwatching (Sun, 8 am, May-Jun). Register online or at Friends’ store, Jasper Information Centre, 500 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4767. Map 5, 15N gravity gear Climbing/mountaineering guide referrals. Rents backcountry skis and gear for climbing and mountaineering. 618 Patricia St, 780-852-3155. Map 5, 16M

1-866-625-4463

Departs Daily 9AM ,1PM & 7808523370 | 616 Patricia St, Jasper AB

6PM

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jasper area activities

gypsy guide selF drive tours Enhance your Rockies drive. Commentary (sites, pioneers, photo stops, wildlife) automatically plays at 1500+ GPS activation points. Download the app; Rockies tours are $3 to $5 each. or, rent a small device that plays on your car radio. First day $39; multi-day discounts; one-way rentals. SunDog Tours, 414 Connaught Dr Map 5, 14N or call 1-866-477-4171. peter aMann Mountain guide Peter Amann offers mountaineering, avalanche awareness and climbing courses and private excursions. Walk-ins on a space available basis, but it’s better to book ahead (cell 780-931-2521). 780-852-3237. sCeniC drives Free Where Jasper Map shows routes and attractions. Jasper Park “points of interest” map is free at Jasper Info Centre. 500 Connaught Dr, 780-852-6177. Map 5, 15N sundog tours / Jasper adventure Centre Sightseeing with guide and transport. Maligne Valley Wildlife Discovery seeks out big and small animals with short walk at Maligne Canyon 1st and 2nd bridge (3 hrs; $65, -12 $35). Half day Train Tour returns by road with stops at Mt Robson (5-6 hrs; $99, -12 $55). Jasper-Lake Louise-Banff Tour along the Icefields Pkwy with stops at points of interest (6-8 hrs one way; to Banff $119, -12 $85; to Lk Louise $99, -12 $75; min numbers required). West Edmonton Mall Day-Trip to the world’s biggest shopping/entertainment complex (13-14 hrs return, $99, -12 $59). Maligne Canyon Icewalk and Snowshoe tours. Banff-Jasper daily connector. Airport transfers. 414 Connaught Dr, 1-877-852-5595. Map 5, 14N walks & talks Jasper Long-time Jasper resident and professional level IGA guide Paula Beauchamp offers Columbia Icefield Tours to Athabasca, Sunwapta and Tangle icefalls, with Columbia Icefield stop for optional snowshoeing and possible wildlife spotting (4-5 hrs; $95, child/family rates). Custom tours. 626 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4994. Map 5, 6N

skiing Cars, Vans, 4x4s On-site Open Daily • Free Hotel Pick-up

780-852-1117

Inside Jasper Heritage Railway Station rentacar@telus.net 108

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MarMot basin Also see pages 18 and 121. Scenic, uncrowded bowls, glades, groomed runs, and terrain and mini terrain parks. Seven lifts; 3 are high-speed quads. Base and midmountain day lodges with decks.

Standing Tall The totem pole that the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway gifted to Jasper in 1916 was repatriated to the Haida Gwaii in 2010. Now the Two Brothers Totem Pole presides proudly over the Heritage Train Station, Map 5, 15N. Both were chiseled by Haida carvers to honour the historic connection between Pacific First Nations and the Rocky Mountains. —M. Bailey Rentals, snow school, tours, nursery. Town shuttle $7. Lifts $82.50; $66 13-17/stu/65+; $30 6-12, 80+/-6 free (less Jan 18-Feb 2). 15 min south of town, 780-852-3816. Map 5, 17B ski with george Personalized tours of Marmot Basin for strong intermediates and experts with Astoria Hotel owner, ski instructor and former Alberta Ski Team member George Andrew. Half day (9 am or 1 pm; $105); full day (9 am; $203 with lunch); include transport. Astoria Hotel, 404 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3351. Map 5, 14N

sleigh riDes Jasper riding stables Horsedrawn sleigh rides on Pyramid Lake Dec 21-Jan 5, after Sat/Sun; $22, -6

It all

free. Call ahead to confirm. Pyramid Lake Rd, 780-852-7433. Map 5, 4G

StarattthSe Stop

spAs & hot springs reFleCtions spa at the FairMont Jasper park lodge Architecture reflects the surroundings of Jasper National Park. Ten treatment rooms, two couples rooms, rain showers, hydrotherapy baths, steam rooms, saunas and fireside lounge. Nine massage options (including High Altitude Adjustment, Stone Massage and Jasper Active), body experiences (including Maple Body Treat), bath enhancements, facials, treatments for men, nail services and make-up applications (15-90 min; $20-$229). Couples services from $339. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 780-852-6014. Map 5, 7I

Fireplace e Music l Pool Table l Big Screen Sports l Liv Tuesdays ys 3 - 6 pm | Free Pool Acoustic Jam Saturda $

wild orChid salon & spa Therapeutic and relaxation massage. Body treatments: exfoliation, wraps, hot stone, aromatherapy, reiki and craniosacral therapy. Aesthetics: nail care, facials, hair removal and make up. Hair cuts, colours and perms. Packages. Winter Tues-Sun. 616 Patricia St, 780-852-2111. Map 5, 16N

6.25 Cheeseburger & Fries $4.50 Pint & Drink Specials Happy Hour 4:30 - 7 pm

Whistlers Inn, Downtown Across from the Train Station 780-852-3361

sWim/fitness/curling Jasper aCtivity Centre Squash/ racquetball. Winter: public skating, hockey and curling. Showers, group lodging, banquet hall, catering and meeting room rentals. 10 am-10 pm; Sat-Sun from 9 am. 303 Bonhomme St, 780-852-3381. Map 5, 14L Jasper Fitness & aquatiC Centre Indoor 25 m pool, 50 m waterslide, skywalker, monkey bars, wading pool, hot tub, steam room. Private family change rooms. Towel, suit, lifejacket, goggle rentals. Fitness centre and indoor climbing wall: Mon/Wed/Fri 7 am-10 pm, Tues/Thurs from 6:30 am, Sat/Sun from 9 am. Call for pool hrs. Drop-in: $10.80, ch/yth/sen $8.05; pool only $7, yth/sen $6.25, ch $5.25, preschool $4, family $18. 305 Bonhomme St, 780-852-3663. Map 5, 14L

Zipline tours Zipline adventure Fly head first with outstretched arms like a super hero. 366 m/1200 ft zipline system adjusts for mellow to extreme adventures ($75-$125; child and group rates). Base jumping and hang gliding simulations. Tandem flights. Power kiting and paragliding courses. Winter by reservation. Hwy 16 40 min east of town, 780-817-9696. Map 1, 4O

Ski RentalS SaleS SeRvice alpine packages - value to performance cross country - classic & backcountry snowboards, snowblades & snowshoes accessories 8 am-6 pm Fri to 10 pm Sat to 7 pm

780.931.7547 618 Connaught Drive across from the big black steam engine info@skisplease.ca | skisplease.ca

1.5, 3 & 4.5 hour & moonlight trips Campfire lunch Jasper shuttle Drive your own team Great fun for all ages

1-877-295-8505 dogsleddinginjasper.com WINTER 2013/14 //

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In te rn et :W Di irel al- es up s/ /L HiHi ob sp gh by ee Se Ki d os as k on Ra te s$ To ll F re e

s R s es one se Rm rci ac p pl /Ph r xe a s$ E e a c r g i i B Rates are for a basic room, double occupancy. Jasper Home l/ te s )/ s/F nin nd m O lpoo Ra s a o / ( o Accommodation High season is usually summer, low season r n e r i o H o o it tt nt hi tR g/ as ra e n e o n d do /W is usually spring/fall. Call to confirm. *Closed in Assoc ($50-$150): es In tin Se a au st tch ir C ol aun ee w Gu the Winter. †Breakfast included. §Pets Allowed. StayinJasper.com S M Re Ki # A Po Lo *Alpine Village, Hwy 93A, just south of town 780-852-3285 53 S W K/F H 180 120 n/a W R/B A/P W/L M/H 247 123 1-888-852-7737 *§Amethyst Lodge, 200 Connaught Dr 780-852-3394 97 C 780-852-3351 35 C R/B A/P W 188 136 1-800-661-7343 Astoria Hotel, 404 Connaught Dr Athabasca Hotel, 510 Patricia St 780-852-3386 61 C R/B K/F A/P W/L 167 109 1-877-542-8422 780-852-3209 39 C S/W K/F A W/L H 176† 99† n/a §Bear Hill Lodge, 100 Bonhomme St *Becker's Chalets, Hwy 93, 5-min S of town 780-852-3779 118 C R K/F H 170 145 n/a §Best Western Jasper Inn, 98 Geikie St 780-852-4461 144 C I S/W R/B K/F P W/L M 241 114 1-800-661-1933 A/P W/L M/H 273 157 1-888-852-7737 §Chateau Jasper, 96 Geikie St 780-852-5644 119 C I W/E R/B §The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, Old Lodge Rd 780-852-3301 451 C/M O S/E R/B K/F P W/L M/H 399 219 1-800-441-1414 Filia Inn & Suites, 6 Pyramid Lake Rd 780-852-5060 4 C R A W/L 159 95 n/a W H 160 99 1-888-217-6939 *Jasper House Bungalows, Hwy 93, S of town 780-852-4535 56 S R K §Lobstick Lodge, 94 Geikie St 780-852-4431 139 C I S/W/E R/B K/F P W/L M/H 256 142 1-888-852-7737 §Maligne Lodge, 912 Connaught Dr 780-852-3143 98 C I S/W/E R/B K/F A/P W/L H 215 130 1-800-661-9323 780-852-4471 107 C I S/W R/B K/F A/P W/L M/H 248 132 1-888-852-7737 §Marmot Lodge, 86 Connaught Dr *Miette Hot Springs Resort, Miette Rd 780-866-3750 35 S R K/F 95 76 n/a Mount Robson Inn, 902 Connaught Dr 780-852-3327 80 C W R F A/P W/L 229 119 1-800-587-3327 §Overlander Mountain Lodge, Hwy 16 780-866-2330 40 R/B K/F A W/L M 180 139 1-877-866-2330 H 229 129 1-866-852-9770 Park Place Inn, 623 Patricia St 780-852-9770 14 C F A/P W *Patricia Lake Bungalows, Off Pyramid Lk Rd 780-852-3560 52 S/M W K/F A W/L 189 99 1-888-499-6848 780-852-3491 95 K/F L M/H 160 140 n/a *Pine Bungalows, 2 Cottonwood Creek Rd W R/B K/F L M 167 132 1-888-852-7737 §Pocahontas Cabins, Hwy 16 east of town 780-866-3732 57 C O §Pyramid Lake Resort, Pyramid Lake Rd 780-852-4900 62 S S/W/E R/B K/F P W M 259 239 1-888-852-7737 A/P W/L M/H 209 91 1-800-661-6427 §Sawridge Inn & Conference Ctr, 76 Connaught Dr 780-852-5111 153 C/M I S/W/E R/B *§Sunwapta Falls Rocky Mtn Lodge, Hwy 93 780-852-4852 53 S R/B F W/L H 189 129 1-888-922-9222 *§Tekarra Lodge, Hwy 93A, just south of town 780-852-3058 52 R K/F A L M 179 149 1-877-532-5862 §Tonquin Inn, 100 Juniper St 780-852-4987 137 C I S/W/E R/B K/F A/P W/L H 220 125 1-800-661-1315 Whistlers Inn, 105 Miette Ave 780-852-3361 64 C S/W R/B F A/P W 215 117 1-800-282-9919

Jasper hotels

er Home Accommodation Associatio n Jasp

Jasper

private Home

accommodation

Jasper’s Heritage Boutique Hotel

Guest Rooms & Suites $50

to $150

Kitchenette & Breakfast Options

See Website For: 140 Licensed Operators 10-Day Availability Report

STAYINJASPER.com 110

where.ca // jasper

1-877-542-8422 AthabascaHotel.com

Warm up to lady winter with the Sawridge Inn and Conference Centre Jasperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Winter Holiday Packages

Your choice of Ski, Spa, Romance, Relaxation and more...

www.SawridgeJasper.com www.SawridgeJasper.com

Toll Free: 1.800.661.6427 Toll Free: 1.800.661.6427

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jasper hot shops

Function & Fashion To stay snug while still looking fabulous, Karen Jacobs from Mountain Air Clothing (p 113) recommends Emu sweaters. The collection complements the feminine form, and the premium Merino wool has a luxurious and sophisticated look. “They are warm, not itchy and super fashionable,” adds Karen. —Lisa Stephens

Age Restrictions

Did you know that whiskey is any 40% alcohol by volume spirit distilled from fermented grain? Here is how to sort the barley from the corn:

• Scotch is produced from malted barley dried over a peat-fuelled fire. All scotch is aged in oak casks for at least three years, and it must be made in Scotland. • Always ‘made in America’, bourbon is ‘sour mash’ processed; corn is blended into a fermenting batch of spirit. Bourbon is distilled to 160 proof or less, aged a minimum of two years in new barrels and has no additives. • Canadian whisky can be made from corn or wheat supplemented with rye, barley or malt. It has to be aged for three years. If you’re going Canadian, Avalanche Spirits (p 115) owner Doug McPhee suggests Forty Creek whisky (shown). —Kirsten Varsek

Snow Down Payment Snowshoes are like cars. When buying, Totem Ski Shop (p 115) suggests you consider primary use, efficiency and additional features: • Terrain (primary use): Snowshoes allow you to travel atop snow by spreading weight over a larger surface than your foot. Flat terrain accommodates a longer ‘vehicle’, while steep pitches mandate a more compact model. • Snow Conditions (efficiency): A ‘Hummer’ lets you stay afloat on deep powder; packed trails can be negotiated by a ‘Mini’. • Weight (additional features): If your pack is stuffed, you’ll need more ‘tire’ surface to support the load. —Kirsten Varsek

Lightweight Performance Engineers strive to design skis that are stable at speed, flex over bumps and allow continual edge ‘grip’ during turns. The quest includes the use of strong and lightweight ‘aerospace industry’ materials that allow skier energy to produce immediate and precise on-snow reactions reactions. Völkl’s V-Werks models (at Edge Control, p 114) combine carbon and ara aramid polymer fibres with Titanal aluminum alloys to shave a kilo from a pair of skis. Thin elegance is achieved, and torsion stiffness and damper response is enhanced. These skis are playplay ful and easy to control. —Jack Wennot 112

where.ca // jasper

Map co-ordinates refer to the Jasper map on pages 128-129. Bakeries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Cameras Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Clothing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Galleries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Gifts & Souvenirs . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Health & Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Ski & Board Shops . . . . . . . . . . 114 Wine, Spirits & Beer . . . . . . . . . 115

For more listings and links scan this code with your smartphone or key in www.where.ca/canadianrockies

Bakeries Bear’s Paw Bakery Europeanstyle shop and café. Country breads, croissants, pastries, cinnamon buns and muffins from quality natural ingredients. Ham and cheese loaf, breakfast sandwiches. Gluten-free items. Special occasion cakes. Locally roasted coffee. Open 6 am. 4 Pyramid Lake Rd (near Connaught Dr), 780852-3233. Map 5, 14N The Other Paw Bakery Croissants, pastries, cinnamon buns and muffins from quality natural ingredients. Wedding cakes. Custom sandwiches, breakfast wraps; café seating. Open 7 am. 610 Connaught Dr (across from Train station), 780852-2253. Map 5, 16N

Camera Shops Tekarra Color Canon and Nikon cameras. Quality prints in minutes from digital cards. Digital workstations—zoom and colour adjust. Images to CD and DVD. Custom cropping and enlarging (to poster size) and printing on canvas. Color photocopies. Frames, cards, souvenir books and local art. 600 Patricia St, 780-852-5525. Map 5, 16M

jasper shops

underwear. Canada Goose, Guess, Miss Me, Mavi Gold, Mackage, Desigual, Esprit, Joseph Ribkoff, Parkhurst. Shoes: Timberland, Clarks, Hispanitas, Mjus, Bogs, Saute Mouton. Oakley sunglasses. Bags, scarves, hats, jewellery. 622 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3760. Map 5, 16N Open Country Fashionable clothing for men, women and kids. Joseph Ribkoff, Sympli, Not Your Daughter’s Jeans, Part Two, Michael Kors, Hudson Denim, Spanner and Parkhurst. From underwear to outerwear; bathing suits to footwear. Accessories. Locally designed jewellery. Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 1 Old Lodge Rd, 780-852-4991. Map 5, 7I

Powder Prep

The Fairmont Store Collection of signature apparel, books and exclusive collectibles. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 780-852-3301. Map 5, 7I

A day at Marmot Basin shouldn't include fumbling with rental gear forms and accessing wallet while wearing gloves. Maximize your fun by visiting the downtown Marmot Basin Sales Centre (p 114) a day ahead (or while waiting for your ski shuttle) to purchase lift tickets and peruse skiwear. Pre-paid rental equipment can be reserved in store or online; either way, it will be ready and waiting at the hill. —Kirsten Varsek

Gift Shop At Jasper-Yellowhead Museum Wildlife, history and guide books. Handcrafts, jewellery and toys. Unique souvenirs and gifts. Tax-free shop. 400 Bonhomme St, 780-852-3013. Map 5, 14K

Philippe’s designs range from fun to formal, and feature Polar Ice Canadian diamonds and colourful ammolite gemstones. Patricia Ctr, 610 Patricia St, 780-852-4480. Map 5, 16M

Wild Mountain Premium mountain brands for passionate outdoor people. Huge selection of The North Face including technical outerwear, base layers, ski suits, running wear, casual clothing, footwear, tents, backpacks and sleeping bags. Smartwool, Mammut, Rab and Fjällräven active apparel. Karma yoga wear. Also in Calgary, Red Deer, Kelowna. 610 Patricia St, 780-852-5304. Map 5, 16M

Galleries

See Art & Entertainment section p 102.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Friends of Jasper National Park Gift shop where proceeds support park programs. Books, maps, DVDs, souvenirs, nature oriented gifts and jewellery. Inside Jasper Information Centre, 500 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4767. Map 5, 15N

Jasper Rock & Jade Jewellery including Ammolite by Korite. Fossils, minerals, kitchen gadgets and pottery. Homemade gourmet fudge; free samples. 620A Connaught Dr, 780-852-3631. Map 5, 16N

Clothing

Jasper Dollar & Up Store Value priced gifts and souvenirs. Apparel, toys, games, guitars and drums. Home decor and kitchen gadgets. Scrapbook, craft and party supplies. Seasonal items. 625 Patricia St, 780852-3443. Map 5, 16N

More Than Mail Books, stationery, art supplies and souvenirs. Custom maps printed from digital files. Satellite phone and Spot rentals/sales. Unlocked cell phone sales. Business Centre services: internet, fax, copying, shipping and bag storage. 632 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3151. Map 5, 16N

Mountain Air Clothing Co Fashions for women and men. Denim, outerwear, sweaters, swimwear and

Jasper Jewels By Philippe A master goldsmith and gemologist,

Parkway Gifts Logo T and sweat shirts, jackets, vests, figurines, hats, WINTER 2013/14 //

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All Mountain

RentAls

XWing 6 skis & Pulse snowboards are easy to ride for beginners & perform well for intermediates Packages: Adults $25 • Kids $17 Cross-country ski & snowshoe rentals Tunes & repairs

Omni-Heat clothing & boots. Stay warm.

On-line sport 600 Patricia St • 780-852-3630

jasper shops

jewellery and toys. 606 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3133. Map 5, 16N sherriFFs OF JasPer Christmas ornaments: Jim Shore Disney, Willow Tree, Department 56 and Bradford Exchange. Hand painted glassware, jewellery, handbags and lotions. Canadian home and garden decor. Soda flavoured BBQ sauces. Eco-friendly cards. 610 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3658. Map 5, 16N Tangle Creek giFTs Large selection of toys: Lego, Mega Bloks, Melissa & Doug, Thomas & Friends. Board games and puzzles. Robeez mini shoes and sock sets. Souvenir shirts, hoodies, caps, jumpers, mugs, figurines, tea towels, oven mitts and aprons. Home accents, pottery, bath items and jewellery. 640 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5355. Map 5, 17M Trains & laTTes Train items: DVDs, books, calendars, cards, posters, maps, model trains, shirts, caps, magazines, gamebooks and whistles. Café. Train Station, 607 Connaught Dr, 780-852-7444. Map 5, 15N

health & Beauty JasPer hawes Fragrances, hand bags, sunglasses, jewellery and lingerie. LingaDore, Marc Jacobs, Derek Alexander and Gucci. Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 1 Old Lodge Rd, 780-852-7050. Map 5, 7I

Perfect for Travel DIGIC 6 image processor, full HD video, GPS, Wi-Fi photo sharing, 20x optical zoom, 40x with ZoomPlus, optical image stabilizer

TEKARRA COLOR

600 Patricia St 780.852.5525

Rent Quality Gear

JasPer Park rexall Prescription, over-the-counter and herbal remedies. Cosmetics, bath items, cards, sunglasses, magazines, newspapers, stationery, gift wrap, gifts. 602 Patricia St, 780-852-4441. Map 5, 16M PharMasave Full service pharmacy. Beauty items, toiletries, health and nutritional supplements and non-prescription drugs. Friendly service; free local delivery. Winter 9 am-7 pm. 610 Patricia St, 780-8525903. Map 5, 16M rain hair sTudiO Indulge in a variety of hair treatments in a relaxing studio atmosphere. Bumble & Bumble, Alterna, Kevin Murphy and Moroccan Oil products. The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 1 Old Lodge Rd, 780-852-1998. Map 5, 7I

“We know our stuff” Gear • Apparel • Rentals 406 Patricia St • 780-852-3654 114

where.ca // jaspER

wild OrChid salOn & sPa Natural ingredient, professional products: Alterna and Moroccan Oil haircare, and Prevonia face and body care.

Jewellery, scarves and hair accessories. 616 Patricia St, 780-852-2111. Map 5, 16N

ski & Board shops edge COnTrOl ski shOP Völkl ski rental pkgs $35-$45, ch $8-$20; also Dynastar, Head, K2 and Blizzard; all rocker models. Snowboard $35, ch $25; x-c skis $12; telemark $30; snowshoes $12; snowblades and helmets; reservations welcome. Bootfitting and custom Superfeet footbeds. Tunes and repairs: Wintersteiger 10 steps to factory specs. Outdoor and ski clothing by Helly Hansen, Mountain Hardwear, Eider, Spyder. 8 am-6 pm, Fri-Sat to 8 pm. 626 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4945. Map 5, 16N everesT OuTdOOr sTOres Outerwear, travel clothing, footwear, eyewear and backpacking gear by Keen, Sherpa, Marmot, Chlorophyll, Vasque and Deuter. Outrageous hats. Rentals: snowshoes $10 and ice walking soles $8. 414 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5902. Map 5, 14N Freewheel Exclusively twin tip skis: Line, K2, Lib Tech, Salomon. Snowboards: Burton, Gnu, Lib Tech, Rome. Rental pkgs: boards $30, skis $24, demos and fat skis $50. Outerwear: Burton, Volcom, Vans. 618 Patricia St, 780-852-3898. Map 5, 16M graviTy gear Backcountry specialist. Climbing and ski touring gear, clothing, footwear and accessories. Arc’teryx, Icebreaker, La Sportiva, Black Diamond. Rent snowshoes, touring skis, beacons, shovels, ice climbing gear. Guide referrals. 618 Patricia St, 780-852-3155. Map 5, 16M JasPer sOurCe FOr sPOrTs Ski and board apparel: Bonfire, Karbon, Powder Room, Ripzone, Sierra Designs, Orage. Gear: Atomic, Nordica, Fischer, Artec. Sportswear and footwear: Globe, Adidas, Reebok, Merrell, Lole. Rentals: ski and board pkgs $25-$35, kids $13-$20; x-c skis, snowshoes, skates, jackets, snow pants. Hockey outfitters. NHL and Team Canada jerseys. 8 am-6 pm; to 9 pm wknds/hol. 406 Patricia St, 780-852-3654. Map 5, 14M MarMOT Basin sales CenTre In-town shop for advance sales of lift passes and lessons. Rental reservations, pick-up (and store) your gear at the hill. Ski accessories sold. 611 Patricia St, 780-852-3816. Map 5, 16N

nightlife

On-line sPOrT Sportswear, skiwear, outerwear and boots by Columbia featuring Omni-Heat thermal technology for comfort and warmth outdoors. Sorel boots. Salomon X-Wing skis rental pkgs $25 ($17 kids), boards $30. X-c pkgs $15 ($10 kids). Overnight repairs. 600 Patricia St, 780-852-3630. Map 5, 16M

continued from page 103 de’d dOg Bar Rub shoulders with locals who come for the pint specials $4.25-$4.50 and great daily food features. Big TVs, pool and darts. Happy hour 4-7 pm; Fri to 8 pm. Open mic every Tues night, and occasional live music mid-week. Astoria Hotel, 404 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4328. Map 5, 14N

OuTer liMiTs Ski and board clothing, accessories and souvenirs. Rentals and repairs at adjacent shop. Marmot Basin, 780-852-3816. Map 5, 17B rOCky MOunTain renTals Skate rentals. Bell desk, The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, 780-852-3301. Map 5, 7I skis Please Rentals in-store or via ski valet to your hotel or car. Recent model and new demos of alpine and x-c (classic, skate, touring) skis plus snowboards, snowblades, jackets, pants, snowshoes. Lacroix, Rossignol, Fischer, Salomon, Head, Chlorophylle. Gear/accessory sales. 8 am-6 pm; to 10 pm Fri; to 7 pm Sat. 618 Connaught Dr, 780-931-7547. Map 5, 16N

Technical innovaTion from finland

780-852-3078 • 408 Connaught Dr TotemSkiShop.com

TOTeM ski shOP Skis, boots and boards by Salomon, Rossignol, Elan, Armada, Drake and Arbor. Outdoor clothing by Halti, The North Face, Patagonia, Descente, Armada and O’Neill. Bootfitting, footbeds, repair shop. Rentals: Rossignol skis/boards $25-$35, kids $13-$25; x-c skis $15; snowshoes $10; ski pants $15; jackets $15. Multiday rates. 408 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3078. Map 5, 14N

JasPer liquOr sTOre & wine Cellar A world of tastes; family owned since 1946. 1800 wine labels, 700 beers and 150 single malts. From Canada: Niagara reds, Okanagan whites, ice wine, whiskey. 606 Patricia St, 780-852-5682. Map 5, 16M JasPer Park liquOr & Beverage CO Canadian wine specialist. Cold beer, spirits and unique liqueurs. Case discounts. Glassware, flasks, wine accessories. Knowledgeable staff. Parking across the street. Free town delivery. Heritage building, 630 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5511. Map 5, 17N

The dOwnsTreaM Bar Foosball, pool table and big screen TVs. DJ spins every Wed 11 pm. Occasional live music. Full menu to midnight. Lower level, 620 Connaught Dr, 780852-9449. Map 5, 16N earls Upscale lounge: view and 3 plasmas that show sports. Signature beer and wine. Daily drink features. 2nd floor, 600 Patricia St, 780-8522393. Map 5, 16M The FairMOnT JasPer Park lOdge The Emerald Lounge offers perfect après ski with classic cocktails, plush couches, roaring fire and great view. 780-852-6052. Map 5, 7I hOrseshOe CluB Modern decor, drink specials, DJs, dancing. 9 pm-3 am, lively by 11 pm. Marmot Mountain Mon with cheap drinks and prize draws to midnight. Live bands/special DJ events. Upstairs, 614 Patricia St, 780-852-6262. Map 5, 16M JasPer Brewing CO Beer made onsite; tours on request. Fireplace and 8 sports plasmas. 624 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4111. Map 5, 16N

Wine, spirits & Beer avalanChe sPiriTs Cold beer, wine and liquor at good prices. On main street at the traffic lights with plenty of parking (buses welcome). By Avalanche Esso, 702 Connaught Dr, 780-852-7000. Map 5, 17M

entertainment

LEONA AMANN Studio &

ART GALLERY RED DOOR Downstairs 618c Connaught Dr. Jasper, AB Winter open Thurs-Sun 1-6 pm and by appointment Summer open daily 780-852-8289 www.leonaamann.com info@leonaamann.com

JasPer Pizza PlaCe Downstairs pool tables, foosball and video games. 402 Connaught Dr, 780852-3225. Map 5, 14N Olive BisTrO & lOunge Martini Mon and Wine Wed. Occasional singer/songwriters. Pyramid Lake Rd, off Connaught Dr, 780-852-5222. Map 5, 14N whisTle sTOP PuB Pool table (free Tues), Golden-T, Big Buck Hunter, video jukebox, 6 sports plasmas (satellite). $6.25 cheeseburger and fries, pint/drink specials from $4.50, daily happy hour 4:30-7 pm, Sat acoustic jam 3-6 pm. Occasional bands. Fireplace and soft seats. Whistlers Inn, 105 Miette Ave, 780852-3361. Map 5, 15N WINTER 2013/14 //

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jasper hot dining

Decadent Desserts

For the price of a premium Starbucks, Smitty’s (p 119) offers tempting desserts ($7). Favourites include red velvet cake with cream cheese icing and chocolate drizzle; sugar and cinnamon churro laced with caramel; and (for the adventurous) peppered bacon with semi-sweet chocolate, whip cream and berry compote. —Kirsten Varsek

Break Your Fast

Strange Brews Beer connoisseurs (and laymen) enjoy these unusual options: • Hints of mountain clover and wildflowers add unique flavour to Jasper Park Lodge’s (p 117) homegrown honey, the defining ingredient in their Roof Top Honey Ale.

Kick off your day with one of these breakfast buffets all with fresh fruit, yogurt, cereals • De’d Dog (p 117) pulls draughts of Oregon’s Deschutes microbrewery including Chainand pastries: The Inn Restaurant (p 118, $10, breaker White IPA that uses wheat and pilphoto above) has changing hot options like sner malts for a sweeter, bacon, sausage, pancakes and French toast. less hoppy finish. The Sawridge Inn (p 119, $15.25) includes gluten-free baking, bacon, sausage, eggs, pota- • Weekly casks are tapped toes and daily ‘grilled bread’. At The Fairmont Fridays at Jasper Brewing Jasper Park Lodge (p 117, from $22) Cavell’s Co (p 118) and seasonal Restaurant, the Mt Edith Cavell, Lac Beauvert beers debut periodically. and Whistlers Mountain view is almost as Popular Blueberry Vanilla grand as the sumptuous spread that gets even Ale is now available yearmore elaborate on weekends. —Lisa Stephens round. —Lisa Stephens

Cozy Fireside Warmth • Pre-renovation Remnant: The • Den-Like Comfort: Relax on floor-to-ceiling riverstone the couch by Ember’s (p 120) fireplace at The Inn Restaugranite and log fireplace. rant (p 118) remains a high- • Fieldstone Massif: O’Shea’s light of their new decor. Ale House (p 118) fireplace • Cedar Stack: A huge hooded with oak mantle, trout fireplace in The Sawridge Inn mounts and sports memora(p 119, shown) atrium domi- bilia divides the room. nates Walter’s Dining Room. • Pub Pleasure: Find comfy log • Polished Copper: The fireand leather seats by Whistle place in-the-round in Villa Stop Pub (p 119) rock fireplace. Caruso (p 120) dining room • Bigger Is Better: Emerald complements the traditional Lounge at The Fairmont stone model in their lounge. Jasper Park Lodge (p 117) • Fire on Two Sides: Papa sports a massive Winnipeg George’s (p 118) pink rock rock fireplace with tyndall. fireplace hails from 1925. stone mantel. —Jack Wennot 116

where.ca // jasper

jasper dining

Jasper map is on pages 128-129. Asian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Cafes & Bakeries . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Canadian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 European . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Steaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120

Specialties of the House When taste buds confront an unknown menu, they need tasty guidance. So, consider these popular picks: For more listings and links scan this code or key in JasperDining.com

Asian Kimchi House (Korean) Personable Monica An greets guests at her restaurant with Korean screens, tiles and paintings. Hot pot soups; noodles; dumplings; seafood, beef and vegetables in a stone bowl; beef short ribs on a sizzling hot plate. Tasty sauces: mild, medium or spicy. One of two Jasper restaurants listed in Where to Eat in Canada. Mains $15-$22; vegetarian menu $15-$18; lunch specials $13.50. Dinner for 2, 4 or 6 ($41, $67, $110). 11 am-10 pm. 407 Patricia St, 780-852-5022. Map 5, 14N Sayuri (Japanese) Sushi bar and ozashiki booths. Sashimi, tempura, and chicken and salmon teriyaki from fresh ingredients. Cook-your-own nabe hot pot. Sake and Japanese beer. Dishes $9-$20; combos $27-$30. 410 Connaught Dr, 780-852-2282. Map 5, 14N

PHOTo: Evil Dave's Diabolical Tenderloin

Cafes & Bakeries Bear’s Paw Bakery Fresh, madeon-site treats. Soups, sandwiches on homemade bread, sausage rolls and vegetarian pockets. Ham and cheese loaves. Croissants, pastries, cinnamon buns, muffins, cookies and occasion cakes. 4 Pyramid Lake Rd (off Connaught), 780-852-3233. Map 5, 14N The Other Paw Bakery Cafe Quiches, wraps, salads and sandwiches on homemade bread. Breakfast wraps. Made-on-site baked treats like low fat scones and special occasion cakes. Specialty coffee. Wine/beer. 610 Connaught Dr (across from train station), 780-852-2253. Map 5, 16N

• Cassios (p 119): No surprise; top contender at this Italian restaurant is a pasta. Ravioli e Gamberi is butternut squash ravioli in sage butter sauce with grilled garlic shrimp. • Evil Dave’s (below): It turns out that Diabolical Tenderloin is the most tempting of Dave’s evil entrées. Angus beef with red wine demi-glace is served with pico de gallo. • Kimchi House (left): At Jasper’s only Korean restaurant, follow the crowd’s lead. Bul Gal Bi is sizzling and tangy beef short ribs on a cast iron hot plate. • Something Else (p 120): Go Greek at this Mediterranean eatery. Ever popular herb chicken or lamb souvlaki is served with tzatziki and Greek salad. —Kirsten Varsek Trains & Lattes Sandwiches, soup, pastries, snacks, espresso. Train souvenirs. Train Station, 607 Connaught Dr, 780-852-7444. Map 5, 15N

Canadian Country Inn Comfy atmosphere. BBQ ribs, turkey pot pie and salmon; mains $12-$29. Child meals $7 with dessert. A la carte breakfast; wknd buffet. Lounge. Lobstick Lodge, 94 Geikie St, 780-852-4431. Map 5, 9M De’d Dog Bar & Grill Rub shoulders with locals. Steaks, game burger and $6.50 cheeseburger with fries. Food specials from 4:20 pm: Mon spaghetti $7, Tues tatanka burger $7.75, Wed wings $7.60 lb, Thurs double cheeseburger $8.50, Sat dry ribs $10.50, Sun steak sandwich platter $9.50. Pint specials $4.25$4.50. Happy hr 5-7 pm; Fri to 8 pm. Open mic Tues; occasional mid-week bands. Astoria Hotel, 404 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4328. Map 5, 14N

Earls Canadian and international favourites. Open-to-view kitchen. Beef, chicken, fish, vegetarian dishes, pasta and pizza from the wood-burning oven. Signature beers and wines. Mains $13-$34. Daily brunch. Open to 12 am. Upstairs, 600 Patricia St (at Miette), 780-852-2393. Map 5, 16M Evil Dave’s Grill Informal, upbeat spot with fireplace. Creative, beautifully presented twists on comfort food by Red Seal chefs. Funky menu has Asian-inspired starters: lollipop shrimp, cowboy sushi and lettuce wraps. Evil entrées: Diabolical tenderloin, Malicious salmon and Hell’s chicken. Gluten-free dishes. Wicked wines, Magic elixirs and Deadly desserts. Memorable dining. Corkage $15. Mains $19-$39. Kids items. 622 Patricia St, 780-852-3323. Map 5, 17M The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge Stunning Lac Beauvert and Mt Edith Cavell views. Half price dinWINTER 2013/14 //

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Y Prime Rib u Steaks u Ribs u Seafood

ary 40th Annivers

Tonquin Prime rib Village u

Juniper St off Connaught Dr Reservations 780-852-4966

KOREAN RESTAURANT

AUThENTic KOREAN cUiSiNE

407 Patricia St, 780-852-5022

Authentic Greek, itAliAn & cAjun cuisine

Open 11 am • Delivery available 621 Patricia st, 780-852-3850

Authentic & Freshissimo! Patricia Centre Mall, 2nd Flr

610 Patricia St • 780-852-4002 118

where.ca // jaspER

jasper dining

ing for children. The Emerald Lounge: baked brie, Alberta bison burger and Mumbai butter chicken (mains $20-$40); huge fireplace, JPL's RoofTop Honey Lager and spiced wine. Relaxed Cavell’s Restaurant: sweet corn and red prawn bisque, Sterling Silver AAA Alberta prime rib with Okanagan chardonnay jus, and cedar smoked salmon (mains $30-$44); breakfast and Sat/Sun Afternoon Tea. Fitzhugh’s To Go: Rocky Mountain Roasters coffee, salads and made-toorder sandwiches. Oka Sushi: (780852-1114) intimate sushi bar. 1 Old Lodge Rd, 780-852-3301. Map 5, 7I

L&w Pasta, steaks, seafood, chicken and ribs, Greek dishes, 'special' burger and pizza; a big menu. Atrium dining with greenery. Child menu. Mains $12$28; $9-$24 at lunch. 11 am-11 pm. Free delivery after 5 pm. Hazel Ave at Patricia St, 780-852-4114. Map 5, 17M

fiDDLe river Innovative cuisine: Alberta beef, elk and free-range chicken. West coast king crab, wild salmon, shrimp and lobster. Starters like cod cakes and organic Moroccan dates. Daily fresh chalkboard specials. Pine decor. Colin Range and historic train station view. Mains $24-$40. Winter special: 3-course meal $35 (confirm). From 5 pm. 620 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3032. Map 5, 16N

o’shea’s resTauranT & caPPuccino Bar Heritage decor with archival photos, curios and south-facing windows. Flame broiled Certified Angus steaks; and prime rib Fri/Sat. Daily specials; homemade pastas; salmon in wine, lemon, dill sauce; chicken and veggie stirfrys; back ribs with housemade BBQ sauce; burgers and sandwiches. Egg specialties (Benedict, Phoenix, Jasper, Athabasca) and skillet breakfasts. Breakfast $7-$15; lunch $10-$20; dinner $12$32. Child menu. Adjacent fireplace lounge. Athabasca Hotel, 510 Patricia St, 780-852-3386. Map 5, 15M

The inn resTauranT Recently renovated glass enclosed courtyard atrium with fireplace and 70" HDs. Creative menu (main $13-$28): ‘Our Favourite’ pizzas (pancetta mango, butter chicken, pulled pork, buffalo wing, ‘the patch’), buttermilk fried chicken with waffles, ‘meatloaf’s got game’, smoky seafood spaghetti, lamb shank and Alberta bison brisket. Black bottom pie. 26 craft beers, Margaritas and 15 wines by the glass. Breakfast buffet (7 am-10 am, to 11 am Sat-Sun) is only $10. Best Western Jasper Inn, Geikie St at Bonhomme St, 780-8523232. Map 5, 10M JasPer Brewing co Beer brewed on-site. Dining room with booths, pub with fireplace and sports on 7 plasma HDs, and high seats at the bar. Steak, sandwiches, pasta, beer batter fish and chips, and meal salads. Mains $13-$28. Families welcome; kids menu. 11:30 am-2 am. 624 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4111. Map 5, 16N JasPer Pizza PLace Pizza from traditional and wood-fired ovens. Burgers, pasta, chicken, ribs and steaks. Pool, video games and foosball downstairs. Mains $12-$23. Specials MonThurs. Free delivery. 402 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3225. Map 5, 14N

BrUnCH

Lou Lou’s Pizzeria Pizza, whole or by the slice. Pasta, donair, burritos, poutine, Oriental food, burgers and sandwiches. Breakfast to 3 pm. Modern decor with roll-up windows. Mains $8-$12. Free WiFi. 9 am-mid. Free delivery, $10 min. 407 Patricia St, 780-852-3373. Map 5, 14N

PaPa george’s resTauranT & wine Bar Since 1925, this casual restaurant with fireplace has focused on Canadian cuisine. Mains ($18$36): Alberta elk with merlot shallot sauce, wild BC salmon with mango salsa, Mediterranean ravioli, wild game burger, and BBQ chicken and ribs. Lunch ($8-$16): bison meatloaf, burger and sandwiches. Chocolate marquis dessert. Breakfast $6-$16. ‘Early bird’ 5-7 pm special $18. Wine bar tastings and small plates ($7$16). Espresso bar and take-out. Astoria Hotel, 404 Connaught Dr, 780-852-2260. Map 5, 14N The Pines Timber and stone decor, fireplace, and Pyramid Lake and Mountain view. Breakfast 7-11 am Wed-Sun ($8-$17). Lunch 11 am-2 pm Sat-Sun ($10-$18): sandwiches, burgers and daily pasta. Dinner 5 pm10 pm Thurs-Sat ($16-$32): signature boar bacon wrapped beef tenderloin, roasted sea bass and apple cinnamon chicken. Private room. Open daily from mid-Apr. Pyramid Lake Rd, 6 km from town, 780-852-4900. Map 5, 2H

Earls (p 117) new 10:30 am-2 pm daily brunch includes parfaits, eggs Benedict and frittatas.

The sawriDge inn Walter’s Dining Room in the lush indoor atrium offers regionally inspired delicacies (mains $17-$34). Dialogue of salmon, bison short ribs, eggplant rollatini and pork tenderloin. Chef’s table with reservation. Constantly evolving wine list. Extensive breakfast buffet is a great value ($15.25, $7.25 6-12, -6 free). Private dining rooms. The Hearthstone Lounge has lighter fare with daily lunch specials in a relaxed setting. Champs Lounge has pub fare and sports on big TVs; Wed 35¢ wings. 76 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5111. Map 5, 8N siLverwaTer griLL Wood decor, waterfall features and lounge with big screen. Wild boar pasta, AAA Alberta striploin, blackened Arctic char, poached and seared duck, and risotto (mains $12-$32). Child menu. Breakfast buffet weekends/holidays; daily à la carte. Chateau Jasper, 96 Geikie St, 780-852-5644. Map 5, 10M whisTLe sToP PuB “The local watering hole.” French onion soup, Nathan’s hot dog, wild game burger, sandwiches, Guinness battered fish and chips, pasta and steaks (mains $6-$19); $6.25 cheeseburger and fries. Sun brunch 10 am-1 pm. 11 beers on tap; $4.50 pint specials. Fireplace and soft seats, 6 big screens, pool tables (free Tuesdays), acoustic jam Sat 3-6 pm. Whistlers Inn, 105 Miette Ave, 780-852-3361. Map 5, 15N

europeAn cassios iTaLian resTauranT A favourite of locals and visitors; real Italian food from old family recipes. Mussels and clams, jumbo garlic shrimp, house made crab cakes, bruschetta, pasta, veal and chicken dishes are made with fresh, natural ingredients. Seafood is a specialty. Flatbreads; try the fig, pear and gorgonzola. Mains $15-$35. Full Canadian breakfasts $7. Whistlers Inn, 602 Connaught Dr (across from the train station), 780-852-4070. Map 5, 15N miss iTaLia risToranTe Colourful decor; big portions. Homemade cannelloni, ravioli, manicotti and lasagna. Vitello alla Veneziana: veal, shrimp and butter lemon sauce over pasta Parmesano. Pollo Miss Italia: chicken, peppers, mushrooms, onions and spicy tomato sauce over pasta. The Sicilian: cappellini, chicken and cannelloni. Italian Feast for 2 or 4: homemade meatballs, Italian sausages, fettucini carbonara, cannelloni and

jasper dining

seafood linguini. Steaks, ribs, seafood and pizza. Lunch $13-$20; mains $15$27; daily specials. 11 am-10 pm. 610 Patricia St, 780-852-4002. Map 5, 16L oLive BisTro & Lounge Colin Range views through atrium windows. European influenced fare from Canadian ingredients like Certified Angus beef, Quebec duck and BC salmon. Braised lamb shank, roasted red pepper and portabella strudel, bison burger with cheddar and maple bacon. Martini Mon, Wine Wed, occasional live music. 4 pm-mid. Pyramid Lake Rd between Connaught and Patricia, 780-852-5222. Map 5, 14N The raven BisTro Jasper’s newest restaurant, owned by accomplished restaurateurs John Riedler and Darlene Baily, has a trendy atmosphere. Eclectic cuisine with vegetarian choices (mains $17-$29): curried vegetable strudel, spicy lentil quinoa nut loaf, coconut kaffir lime seafood pot, pasta fresca, Moroccan lamb, steak frite Argentine, brisket Provincial. 504 Patricia St, 780-852-5151. Map 5, 15N

Evil Dave’s Grill

622 Patricia St 780 852 3323 evildavesgrill.com

fAmily a&w Burger Family: baby, teen, mama, papa, grandpa, uncle sirloin, veggie. Chubby chicken and grill. Kids packs. Historic photos. Eat-in/take-out. Breakfast to 11 am. 640 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4004. Map 5, 17M BrighT sPoT All-day breakfast, steaks, seafood, prime rib burger, sandwiches, pasta, pizza. Donair, souvlaki, spanakopita. Mains $9-$19. Specials with soup or salad and coffee: lunch sandwich $10.50, pasta $14, meat/ fish $15. 58" plasma sports. 7 am10 pm. Petro Canada, 701 Connaught Dr, 780-852-3094. Map 5, 18M Kfc/Pizza huT Kentucky fried chicken, chicken burgers and sides. Custom pizza and Lover’s specialties. Kids and mega meals. Eat in/take-out. Free delivery $25+. 640 Connaught Dr, 780-852-5520. Map 5, 17N smiTTy’s Casual value priced dining in Jasper for 50+ years. Big windows, original art and booth seating. 150item menu: famous pancakes, skillets, quesadillas, sandwiches, wraps, salads and many appies. Sterling Silver beef steaks, roast beef and burgers, stirfries, pastas and seafood. “All your favourites all day long” including breakfast. Mains $7.50-$17.50. Child/ senior menus. Licensed. From 7 am.

AAA Alberta Steaks, Prime Rib & Wild Game A mountAin view from everY seAt Canadian regional cuisine & European specialties Beautiful dining room with two fireplaces Fireside lounge Winter hours from 3 pm, plus lunch weekends & holidays Reservations

780-852-3920

Connaught Dr & Hazel Ave Second Floor (Elevator) villacaruso.com WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

119

Athabasca Hotel

jasper dining

At the heart of Jasper

109 Miette Ave, (across from Information Ctr), 780-852-3111. Map 5, 15N

4 Pyramid Lake Road 780-852-3233

Bear's Paw Bakery

...world famous suBway Sub sandwiches to order throughout Jasper! on fresh bread. Low fat, kids and value meals. From 7 am. 626 Connaught 4 Cedar Ave, off Connaught Dr Dr, 780-852-3991. Map 5, 16N (780) 852-3233 Fx 852-5019 steAks emBers Classic chop house decor. AAA steaks, ribs, rack of lamb, pistachio crusted Arctic char and ‘famous’ mac n’ cheese (mains $12-$32). Breakfast buffet wknd/hol; daily à la carte. 7-11 am and 5-9 pm (to 10 pm Fri-Sat). Fireside Lounge to 11 pm (food to 10 pm); to 1 am Fri-Sat (food to 11 pm). Marmot Lodge, 86 Connaught Dr, 780-852-4471. Map 5, 9N

O’Shea’s Restaurant Cappuccino Bar Sports Bar • Ale House 510 Patricia St • 780-852-3386

A LocAL FAvourite For over 50 yeArs Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Daily from 7 am 780-852-3111 • 109 Miette Ave smittys.ca

Italian Restaurant

#1 Italian

Restaurant in Jasper - Trip Advisor 602 Connaught Dr, across from the Rail Station 780-852-4070 • cassios.ca

120

where.ca // jaspER

someThing eLse sTeaK house & greeK resTauranT Greek, Italian and Cajun cuisine. Paithakia and lamb or chicken souvlaki. AAA Black Angus steaks (teriyaki, blackened or BBQ). Pasta, pizza, chicken, fish, stirfries and ribs. Greek and Caesar salads. Burgers and sandwiches at lunch. Relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere. Free delivery in town. Mains: lunch $11-$19, dinner $15-$26. Specials with soup: lunch $12-$13, dinner $16-$19. Child menu. 11 am-10 pm. 621 Patricia St, 780-852-3850. Map 5, 16N Tonquin Prime riB viLLage Long-established ‘authority on prime rib.’ Cherry-wood decor and heated terrace. Sizzling AAA steaks, BBQ ribs, feta/spinach/mushroom stuffed chicken and seafood fettucine. Fresh mussels, crab cakes, sole Normande, lemon dill seabass and grilled black and blue tuna with wasabi ginger beurre blanc. Child menu. Big wine list. Mains $18-$34; $14-$23 in the bar with big screen sports. Breakfast buffet Sat/Sun. Juniper St (by Tonquin Inn), 780-852-4966. Map 5, 9N viLLa caruso sTeaK house & Bar Jasper favourite with impressive dining room, open kitchen and flame grill. AAA Alberta beef steaks and prime rib, rack of lamb, trout and salmon, BBQ ribs, apple maple pecan pork tenderloin and pasta. Bison, elk and deer tenderloin. Souvlaki and moussaka. Two fireplaces, mountain views from every seat, private dining section and bar. Most mains $20$42; lobster tails at market. Lunch $14-$17. Child menu. Winter 3-11 pm, plus lunch weekends/hol. Connaught Dr at Hazel Ave (2nd fl/elevator access), 780-852-3920. Map 5, 17M

610 Connaught Dr, 780-852-2253 www.bearspawbakery.com

Jasper’s favorite hang-out! Best pub food in town Amazing nightly specials Try our burgers & nachos Darts, pool, video games, big screen TVs, sports occasional entertainment open mic every Tuesday Widest selection of beer Guinness & Stella on tap

404 Connaught Dr 780.852.4328 deddog.com

Happy 50th, Marmot Basin

By Kirsten Varsek

the lower reaches were just dirt,” rememasper’s enormous, scenic and almost bers George. Marmot’s first high-speed always crowd-free ski area turns 50 this quad, the 1990 Eagle Express, was “pretty year. George Andrew—Astoria Hotel ownexciting”. The first snowboard park was er, former Alberta Ski Team racer and 43 built in 1993, and in 2009 the Canadian year ski instructor veteran—has skied MarRockies Express debuted as the region’s mot Basin since 1962. George recalls riding longest high-speed quad chairlift. a surplus Columbia Icefield snowcat to get “The appealing thing is that Marmot to the rope tow that was installed in 1961. is in a basin; you can see every part of Today Marmot's modern lifts transport the area from every part of the area,” 12,060 skiers per hour, a fact that would says George. The snow have amazed crosscountry ski guide Joe “The appealing thing is that Marmot lasts a long time. “If it Weiss who named the is in a basin; you can see every part of snows a lot in Decemarea Marmot Basin in the area from every part of the area” ber, additional snow is just the cream.” Even the late 1920s. The first today fresh tracks are often available a trail was ‘cut’ in 1930, and in 1942 the Britweek after a snowfall. George’s favourite ish army trained here; that first rope tow stop is Scooter’s Coffee Bar & Bakery in was powered by an army truck engine. log built mid-mountain Caribou Chalet. As a boy, George first skied Whistlers “I’m excited to be part of the Jasper comMountain where Jasper Tramway sightmunity, and to have the privilege of skiing seeing lift now operates. But the 1964 here,” George concludes. “Marmot is a Yellow T-Bar installation at the “cooler” great area with an international reputation (according to George) Marmot Basin that's growing.” secured the location of the current ski Editor Note: Join a Ski with George tour (p area. The late 1960s saw Marmot’s first 108). Level III CSIA instructor and CSCF chairlift while the 1976 Knob Chair affordcoach George shows guests the mountain ed skiers higher vertical access. “In spring, while telling tales of Marmot’s past. you downloaded on the lower chair when WINTER 2013/14 //

where.ca

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Map 1 The Canadian RoCkies

Hospital No Horses Hwy/MainTowns Town Roads 40 Hostel Information Ctr Villages Seasonal Hwy/Roads 1A Interpretive Trail Cities RoadsParks Laundry Paved Town National Provincial Parks Roads closed to public Wild Reserves

CO LU M

J I

Kamloops 2•4 Vancouver

Saskatchewan River Crossing

Amphitheatre

2•4Field Athletics

Boat Launch

Golden Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

Bus Depot

Camping — Group Amphitheatre

Picnic Shelter Museum / Exhibit

Canoe Launch Athletics Field

Playground Out of Town Lodging

Boat Launch Church

Parkade Service Station

Bus Depot Climbing

Parking Skating

Camping — Tent

Playground

Canoe Launch

Scuba Diving

Stables

Dumping ChurchStation

Swimming Service Station

Fishing Climbing GolfCurling Course

Train Station Skiing — Downhill

Cycling Groceries

Skiing — X-country Viewpoint

Disc Golf Gondola

Stables Washrooms

Handicap Access

Swimming

Heliport

Towns

Boat Launch

West Arm

Cranbrook

395

Provincial Parks Villages Cities Wilderness Reserves

174

Wilbur 21

211 2

Davenport

200

Lethbridge

Pincher Creek

Swimming Tennis

Fuel

Handicap Access

USA MONTANA 37

Hospital

Chief Carway WATERTON Washrooms LAKES Waterton Mountain HorsesRoosville Prohibited PortofofPiegan 93 Port of Chief Mountain Port of 17 Port TownsEureka Chief Mountain 89 Piegan Viewpoint

COLUMBIA Gondola Heliport

93Train Station

GolfBRITISH Course

Villages Cities

National Parks

Information Ctr

Provincial Parks

Interpretive Trail

Wilderness Reserves

Laundry

Bus Stops

Kalispell

Columbia Falls

2 89

Whitefish

290

Claresholm

Stables

Somers 54

Spokane 2

Museum / Exhibit Libby

Sandpoint 2

395 395 2

Newport

231

Hostel Divided Hwy Wilderness Reserves 40Hot21 Hwy/Main TownBusRoads Springs Route & Stops 1A Seasonal Hwy/Roads 395 Divided Hwy Paved Roads 40 Hwy/Main Town Roads Roads closed to public 1A Seasonal Hwy/Roads 231 Gravel Paved Roads/Alleys Roads 292 Trails ski,tohorses Roads(hike, closed public etc) Bus Route Gravel Roads Trails (hike, ski, horses etc)

Colville Provincial Parks

Hospital

2 95

Skiing — X-country 3 Fernie

Hot Springs

National Bus StopsParks

Day Lodge

Fort Macleod

Skating Skiing — Downhill

Hostel 2

Heliport Laundry

Climbing

95 3Fishing

Bonners Ferry

Tiger

Church Fort Steele

Dumping Station

Rossland TTrail 3A 6 3 Patterson Fires Allowed Train Station Waneta Rykerts Creston Kingsgate Hospital Villages Laurier Frontier 25 Boundary Fishing Boundary Nelway DanvilleViewpoint Eastport IDAHO Porthill Laurier Porthill 95 Eastport Hostel CitiesWASHINGTON Golf Course 21 Washrooms 25 Northport 31 2 Information 20Groceries Handicap Trail Access 20 Republic Interpretive

Scuba Diving

Vulcan Nanton

Service Station Sparwood

Canoe Launch

Dock

National Parks Towns

Playground 43

24 23

Rocky Mountain Forest Reserve

Picnic Shelter

Camping — Group

95A

Tennis

HotGondola Springs

Parking

Picnic Site Elkford

Camping — Tent

Kimberley

Parkade

High River

Closed Dec 1 - Jun 14

Out of Town Dining

Strathmore Medicine Hat

Athletics Field

Camping — RV

Ferry

ElbowSheep Black Sheep Diamond River

9 9

Dead Man’s Calgary 22 Flats 22X Kananaskis Kananaskis Village Okotoks

Amphitheatre

93 Bus 95Depot

St Mary Alpine

Castlegar Salmo

Horses Prohibited

Dumping Station

Nelson

Tennis Skating

Dock

Osoyoos

Kokanee 31

Airdrie Cochrane

Morley

Height of the Elk Rockies Lakes

Kaslo

Skiing — X-country

Camping — Group

742

Peter Lougheed

Fairmont Hot Springs

Purcell Wilderness

31A

Denve New Denver

Picnic Shelter

Dock

Dog Sledding Site

Picnic Valhalla Ferry Valhalla SkiingSite — Downhill

DayCamping Lodge — RV

Mount Assiniboine Spray Lakes

Panorama Mountain Village

Goat Range

Canmore

Banff

LUMBIA

Kelowna

Nakusp

Picnic Site Laundry

Ghost River Wilderness

RTA ALBE

Camping — Tent

Olds 27 Didsbury 2

Lake Louise

Field

Radium Hot Springs Invermere

Parking

Interpretive Trail

Three Hills

Information Ctr

Camping — RV

Stettler

BANFF

Bugaboo

Parkade

LEGEND

Lacombe Red Deer 11

Rocky Mountain Forest Reserve

KOOTENAY

Ferry

Sylvan Lake

O ISH C BRIT

Vernon

Cline River

YOHO

Museum / Exhibit Riding used for Horseback

Multi-Use Trails that of Town Lodging23 allow Out Cycling

Rocky Mountain House

Siffleur Wilderness

Gravel Roads/Alleys 23 Out of Town Dining

Ponoka

Multi-Use Trails for Hiking Legend & Skiing: most may also be

Salmon Arm

Wetaskiwin

Sicamous

2•4

Camrose 13

Nordegg

Divided Hwy

BIA

Multi-Use TrailsRoads for Hiking Hwy/Main Town GLACIER & Skiing: most may also be Seasonal Hwy/Roads Riding MOUNT used for Horseback REVELSTOKE Paved TownTrails Roadsthat Multi-Use Revelstoke allow Roads Cycling closed to public

620

Tofield

Gravel Roads/Alleys

2•4

Saskatoon 14

734

White Goat

Columbia Icefield

Spruce Grove Edmonton Devon Leduc

Drayton Valley

Coeur d’ Alene

200

IS H

Viewpoint BlueGolf RiverCourse Groceries Divided Hwy Washrooms

Edson

Fort Saskatchewan

St Albert

Skating National Parks Towns Dock StablesHamber 5 Villages Downhill Skiing Provincial SwimmingParks AL BE RI Reserves Cities Dumping Station Wild Tennis R T

Grande Prairie

Day Lodge

Interpretive Trail Museum/Exhibit Out of Town Dining Out of Town Lodging40 Parking Picnic Site Playground Hinton Service Station Pocahontas Skating 40 Museum/Exhibit Stables Out of Town Dining Miette Swimming Out of Town Hot Springs Tennis Jasper Lodging Viewpoint Parking Washrooms Picnic Site Maligne Lake No Horses Playground Marmot Basin Scuba Diving JASPER Service Station 93

Athletics Field Boat Launch Grande Bus Depot Cache Camping — RV Wilmore — Tent Camping Wilderness Camping – Groups Canoe Launch Church Coin Laundry Day Lodge Athletics Dock Mt RobsonField Boat Launch Downhill Skiing Bus Depot Dumping Station — RV Camping 16 Golf Course Valemount Camping — Tent Groceries Camping –Mount Groups Hospital Robson Canoe Launch Hostel Church Information Coin Laundry

Page 122

Falls

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Mud L

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Bow Hut

Mou

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N M L

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Chateau Lake Louise

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Lake Louise Campground

Wh i t e h

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Bath Glacier Fairmont

or n R d

pe Pi

Community Centre

Waputik aputik Peak

2695 m

2755 m

Banff

Paget Peak

Wapta Lake

Paget Lookout

2565 m

Mt Bosworth orth

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Sherbrooke L

Upper Spiral Tunnel

Lake Louise Ski Area

Police

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Rd L ake Mora i need Winter)

Em era ld L ake

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Mt Daly

To Banff (58 km/35 mi) and Calgary (178 km/110 mi)

Hector Lake

Pulpi Pulpit P Peak eak

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Burgess Mt Field Pass 2635 m (15 km/9 mi from townsite to Moraine Lake)

Baker Creek Chalets

Hector L

2728 m

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Rd iew Fairv

2583 m

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Niles Glacier

2972 m

R Yoho

Mt Burgess

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Mt Niles

Niles Fairview PicnicMeadows Site YOHO OHO

2778 m Temple L

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Samson Mall

Pin n a

Wapta Mountain

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Lake Annette

Road closed winter

Emerald Lake Lodge

Daly Glacier

Emerald L

Paradise Cr

Hidden L Yoho Pass Yoho L

Turquoise L

Historic Waputik Waputik Railway Icefield StationScott Duncan Hut Dr

Whiskey Jack Hostel

Rd Lake er) ai n e nt Mor d in wi se (C l o

Fairview Lookout

Hanna

Louise Cr

Kingfisher Lake

Takakkaw Falls

2696 m

on Hamilt

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Emerald 12 Lake LouiseLake

St Piran

Medical Centre

Hector Dr

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2744 m

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Hamilton Falls

Lake Lou ise Dr

Fairview Mtn

Hamilton L

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Emerald Basin Emerald Glacier Michael Cairn Peak

Saddleback Rd

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Police Bow Coral Valley Creek Pkwy Banff

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Wainwright

Bow Bo w Peak P eak

Balfour Cr Pipestone R

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Fairview Lookout Fairmont

Angel’s Staircase

Yoho V alley R d

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Lak S

2868 m

Moraine Circle

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Lake 45 Louise 36 Area

Crowfoot Glacier

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Mount Gordon

Lake Louise Ski Area & Summer Sightseeing Gondola

Icefields Pkwy & Jasper

Crowfoot Glacier

Map 2 Lake Louise & aRea

Page 123

Bow Lake

Basin

Bow Glacier

Parkway

Pipest one R

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Lake//Louise WINTER 2011 where.ca Campground

123

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Chateau Lake Louise

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Wenkchemna Glacier 3424 m Moraine L Mt Tuzo 1887 m 3245 m

Deltaf Deltaform Mountain

Fairview Lookout

3543 m

Hiking in groups often required Moraine Lake Lodge

Police

Road closed Dr winter

3237 m

Temple L

3067 m

Minnestimma L Lou Valley Larch ise Neptuak Cm 2360 r Mountain

Fairmont Chateau Misko Lake Louise Pass

Pinnacle Mountain

Wenkchemna Pass 2600 m Eiffel L

Louise Cr

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2902 m

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Mt Temple

Bow Valdley Parkway R iew Fairv

Sentinel Pass

3051 m

Pin n a

Mountain Mountai

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Curtis Peak

St Piran

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Eric Harvie & Margaret Greenham Theatres

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Walter Phillips Gallery

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Mount i n

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Canadian Ski Museum West Ma rten St 3hr

Cascades of Time Gardens

12hr

Glen Ave

Spray

Glen Ave Underpass

Bow R

Buffalo St

United

Parks Administration

3hr

$ Currency Exchange

3hr

Presbyterian Information Centre

Wolf St

High School

Banff Ave Square

Downtown Banff

ve Cave A

Birch Ave

Pathway Underpass

Banff Park Museum National Historic Site

Post

Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum

Central Park

Caribou St

3hr

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Office Stanley Thompson Course at The Fairmont RV Springs 3hr Banff

Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies Library

Heritage Homes

St Lynx Birch Cr

u orq Bow River Bridge

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Pages 124-125 e

v yA ra Sp

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6 Ave (Marra’s Way)

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Pages 126-127

Marjorie L

Jasper Tramway Upper Terminal Jasper 2265 m Tramway Upper Terminal 2265 m

Jasper Tramway Jasper Tramway

Cabin L

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Mildred L

Katrine L Katrine L

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Mildred L

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Patricia L

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c 0 Sunwapta Fall Falls Falls Athabasca Falls Columbia Icefield Banf Lake Louise & Banff

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Information

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Pages 128-129

in the Canadian RoCkies

1 Soaking in hot pools (p 62) 2 Skiing in our majestic mountain parks (p 18) 3 Wool blankets (p 72) 4 Talking to dogs (p 47) 5 Photographing stunning mountain lakes (p 33) 6 Laggan’s fortifying and tasty health cookie (p 77)

12 Remote powder bowls accessed by helicopter and snowmobile (p 52, 56)

22 Apparel that keeps us warm when it’s cold (p 22)

13 Canmore Art Guild’s new Elevation Place gallery (p 40) 14 Wildlife safaris (p 104) 15 On-hill partying (p 21, 38) 16 Quality foods at Coyote’s Southwestern Grill (p 78)

7 Canyon ice (p 14, 104)

17 Skating natural ice on scenic lakes (p 15, 46)

8 Knowing the animal from its track in the snow (p 32)

18 Indoor golfing, pool table and glow bowling (p 36)

9 Climbing; both indoors and outside (p 16, 17, 104)

19 Whiskey (p 112)

23 The Animals’ Alpine Club children’s book (p 66) 24 Sparkling drives on the Icefields Pkwy (p 33, 101) 25 Going underground with Canmore Cave Tours (p 46) 26 Lightweight skis that really perform (p 112) 27 Seeing Olympic athletes compete and partying with them later (p 20, 38) 28 Mmmm beer (p 36, 116)

10 One horse sleighs (p 46)

20 Tube park racing with our kids (p 20)

29 Ex-Olympian Loni Klettl; Jasper’s best backcountry resource (p 100)

11 Eclectic Banff Centre performances (p 37, 38)

21 Celebrating Marmot Basin ski area’s 50th (p 121)

30 Snowshoeing fresh tracks (p 46, 105)

Y 130

Have a great photo or recommendation of something you love about the Canadian Rockies that you'd like to share? Send me your best and enter to win prizes! Write editor@rmvpublications.com where.ca // canadian rockies

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