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Yao Women in traditional Dress posing at Longsheng County Village
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Welcome to American World Traveler
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n this issue, we start our round-the-world trip in China with a Fairy-tale tour through the Province of Guangxi, and then discover the historic Silk road in Xi’an. While in Asia, we travel to the Indonesian islands of Flores to meet the highland tribes and then to the island of Komodo to see their incredible Dragons. In Europe, we journey through wine country in La Rioja, Spain, at harvest time and then to the lush green fairways of Wales before going to north Africa to the fabulous Tunisian desert. Closer to home we head to Nevis and experience the wonderful Caribbean beat, we then explore the revitalized Pittsburgh before heading to PEI to find Anne. Cruise anyone! In our cruse section, we set sail to the far away Islands of the Marquesas and partake in a city-sized cruise ship on the Allure of the Seas. Happy travels!
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American World Traveler Tel.: (514) 738-8232 www.americanworldtraveler.com Email: info@americanworldtraveler.com Publisher Editor-in-chief
Michael Morcos Greg James Contributing Editor Dave Cox Graphic Artist Al Cheong Advertising Leo Santini Marketing Tania Tassone Distribution Royce Dillon Contributors: Habeeb Salloum, Susan Campbell, Nicole Gauthier, Rohit Agarwal, Jennifer Merrick and Cherie DeLory Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos: Longsheng County, Guangxi Disclaimer: American World Traveler has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.
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China
Fairyland Tour of Guangxi Province
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Spain
La Rioja-Three Days in a Wonderland of Wine
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Indonesia
Flores and Komodo: The best for last
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I n d i a
Five Interesting Things To Do In Jaipur In A Day
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Nevis
Prince Edward Island
St. Kitts’ little satellite sister island is lush, lovely and sweet
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China Xi’an and Its Historic Silk Route
T h e Fa b u l o u s S o u t h
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Greatness of Guilin
ing karst terrain, with its limestone mountains eroded into fantastic shapes that dazzle the mind. Rock climbers, spelunkers and cavern explorers will never be disappointed here!
Change comes quickly to China, so I fig-
Guilin is a beautiful city with the centre of town surrounded by two rivers and four lakes, and the sheer sided karst mountains as a protective shield. As the main industry is tourism, the city is very well kept. The main attraction is the surround-
The city and the surrounding region are among the most scenic areas in China, and are popular tourist destinations for travelers of all sorts due to the myriad of adventures to be had. A walk came first, as a visit to Elephant Trunk Hill. This land-
aybe you can’t go home again, but you can re-visit a favorite! About a decade has passed since I last visited this beautiful and well visited part of china. Many, many changes have occurred in that time, and there are an ever growing numbers of tourists, and much to my delight, many are Chinese travelers out to visit and learn more about their own country.
ured this would be a good time to visit before it changes again!
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Fairyland Tour of Guangxi Province Article & Images by Michael Morcos
mark is a 50 meter high hill that time has sculpted into the figure of a giant elephant leisurely sipping water from the river with its long trunk, and is regarded as the symbol of Guilin city because of its natural beauty. Later in the afternoon, and just a short trip out of the city lies The Reed Flute Cave, a natural limestone cave with multicolored lighting that has been one of Guilin’s most interesting attractions for over 1200 years.
The cave is over 180 million years old and was named because of the abundance of reed plants present around it, reeds used by the locals to make flutes. A haven for spelunking enthusiasts, the water-rich cave has an abundance of wonderful formations like stalactites, stalagmites, rock formations, and stone pillars. The tour lasts for about an hour, and tourists often enjoy the various names
given to the rock formations like Dragon Pagoda, Crystal Palace, Virgin Forest, Fruit Mountains, Flower, among others. Luckily, taking pictures is allowed inside the cave as long you don’t use a flash! Our dinner consisted of the well known Guilin cuisine and its use of spices. Guilin chili sauce is made of fresh chili, garlic, and fermented soybeans, and is considered one of the city's Three Treasures. The other two of are Guilin Sanhua Jiu, a variety of rice baijiu, or liquor distilled from
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rice as well as Guilin pickled tofu. Odd and different, but it definitely woke up the taste buds! After dinner we were out to visit some of Guilin’s most scenic spots by boat on a charming trip dubbed the ‘Dreams on Water’ tour, which cruises along the two rivers and four lakes that surround the city: Li river, Taohua river and Ronghu lake, Shahu lake, Guihu lake, Mulong lake. The Water-tour of Guilin started in Tang Dynasty (618-907), when there were many lakes and ponds throughout Guilin city, and has been popular ever since. The water system has been developed to make it easy for people to enjoy all the wellknown scenic spots by a small boat. I would liken the tour to water-tours in cities like Venice, Paris and Amsterdam. Leisurely and lovely, this was a great way to end the evening. Our hotel was the Grand Link Hotel, located on the banks of the Li River, faces Elephant Trunk Hill across the river and is near both the Seven Star Park and ZiZhou Island Park. It is the only luxury garden resort hotel on the Li River and has a well deserved reputation for their lovely Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter-themed Gardens, surrounded by flowers. The staff were incredibly polite and knowledgeable, and with a fully equipped business center and swimming pool, there was everything needed to wind up the night.
Guilin to Yangshuo The next day we spent exploring the Li River by going to the Zhujiang Pier for a
4-hour cruise, a sightseeing tour in Guilin with lunch aboard the boat. Lunch was themed as a seafood extravaganza, and was made of amazing, freshly cooked foods from the country side by local farmers and fresh fish sold straight from the riverside fishermen. It was a very unique trip, as the river is now full of boats all doing the same trip, but as we were the only westerners on the boat, we were treated like friends - and even as royalty - by the Chinese travelers along the ride with us! All through the ride we were treated to the view of beautiful mountains, verdant fields, many farms and villages with water buffalos and cows wandering around both sides of the river bank. As a testament to the changes that have happened over the years since I last visited, our stopover in the old town of Yangshuo told the story of change better than anything else. The Yangshuo I remembered had small dirt streets that are now paved, the markets have grown and become slightly more upscale with the influx of wealthy Chinese and foreigners. The pier and the port area is now very large and can accommodate for large numbers of tourists. As busy and bustling as the area is, it still pales in comparison to the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and lakes. After another great meal with local flavor, I was lucky enough to catch the show “Impression Liu San Jie” for a second time - and it was just as dazzling. The performance boasts both modern and classical music played by famous musicians of
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China with more than 600 performers, all of whom are local people of the Li River area. They present the reality of life for the people in through their wonderful performances. The work of the river folk is represented through color and sound. The first chapter is the Red Impression: Folk Songs. On the water, many fishermen are rowing their bamboo rafts in a column. Either standing or squatting, they hang the large red silk in the sky and or upon the water. This red picture symbolizes the enthusiasm and praises the labors of the local people. In the climax, fishing rafts are rowed farther and farther from the audience while the beautiful songs of Sanjie are still echoing among the hills. Moving and impressive. The sheer scope is something to behold!
Longsheng County After breakfast, we drove about 2 hours to Longsheng County and a fantastic way to see rural China. We were treated to a traditional Yao song and dance, and then certain male members of the audience were brought on stage for a wedding ceremony to a local Yao woman!
trim) is quite striking. The women in actual marriage let their hair grow very long and cut it only when they get married. Afterwards we got a chance to buy lots of locally made arts and crafts for gifts at very reasonable prices and lunch was a treat, as the local cuisine is quite different from other Chinese dishes, and absolutely fantastic!
Last call at the Longji Terraces Built along the slope and winding up from the riverside to the mountain top, between 600 m to 800 m above sea level, the Longji Terraces is also called Dragons Backbone Rice Terraces. The name is derived from the terraces that resemble a dragon’s scales and the summit of the mountain range looks like the backbone of a dragon. We enjoyed a day of hiking tours around Pingan village, renowned for the amazing views and scenery. The site was right out of a fairytale, and I felt like spending the whole day there!
Time does not stand still
It was a very entertaining and comical spectacle seeing a person from our group getting a Yao wife! Six years ago it was my turn, so it was nice to watch it unfold to someone else. I was a little sad as I noticed my Yao wife of years ago, but she failed to recognize me!
Six years back home is change enough, but revisiting this magnificent part of China sure brought some perspective. Whether noticing the bigger markets, the longer waits and bigger crowds, the Dragon has truly awoken!
The ceremony itself is quite lovely, and the dress of the Yao brides (black with colorful
www.tourismchina.org
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e spent three heady days in Rioja, enjoying the beautiful rolling landscapes, charming medieval hamlets and exquisite wines of this magnificent region of northern Spain. The towns were small, but each had smells, colours and flavors that overload the senses. The towns we visited were all very clean and well kept and we were fortunate to have arrived during harvest time. Most of Rioja is used for growing wine grapes and the wines made are found throughout the world.. The wine country is divided into
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three regions- Rioja Alta (where the old "chateaux" are located), Rioja Alavesa (in the Basque Country and home to some of the prettiest hamlets) and Rioja Baja. Our first day was spent in the capitol Logrono. Even after a long journey from home, I could not wait to explore this city and it was love at first sight! It was a quiet Sunday, and the locals were out in full force enjoying the day with their families. My stops included the magnificent Catedral de Santa MarĂa de la Redonda. Built as a Gothic church, it steadily grew
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into a full-blown cathedral in the 16th century and is a testament to the architects of the day. Carmen Park is one of the most beautiful in the city with a wide array of animals and plants, including many types of ducks and birds. What really won me over was the Town Square. Designed by architect Rafael Moneo and located on the Avenue of Peace, the modern Town Hall is in a large plaza where artists, musicians and public festivals are welcome throughout the year. We also had the pleasure of visiting a traditional, third generation wine bag maker. He
the most dominate flavour right away.
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The restaurants are quite different and unique, often only offering a special or 2 of the day. Limited menu, maximized taste. Our dinner was served at Bar Soriano, whose speciality (maybe the only thing they offer) was grilled mushrooms. A family run business; we met three generations who were working very hard just to meet the large demand of the awaiting crowds! When I asked what the main ingredient was, the answer I received was that it was a secret that would never be divulged! And talk about flavors! Although any ingredient can be put on the small breads, but those most commonly found include fish like hake, cod, and anchovy,as well as tortilla de patatas or stuffed peppers, and croquettes. Pintxos can be very sophisticated sometimes, and can be very elaborate or expensive fish, seafood, or meats. My personal, all-time favourite and a must eat in Spain is the cured Jamon (ham) made with the back leg of a certain breed of pig!
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was so good and busy that he could not meet demand as his products were very popular with Spaniards and tourists alike. The town really comes to life in the early evening as the crowds come out to participate in a unique kind of pub crawl. Though lots of red wine is consumed, the real deal is the food. Instead of a big sit down dinner, the locals (and tourists) go from place to place tasting different restaurant / bar’s special Pintxos (similar to, but wrongly known as, tapas). There are dozens of places to see and taste in a very small area (few blocks).
W i n e Our evening started at Calle de Laurel, where the amount of Pintxos bars was unbelievable! Almost 50 are packed into a single block about the size of football field. I counted 12 in my first street! They also had a wine and food expert, a true magician when it came to paring foods with certain wines - and he was Merlin the magnificent! We were taught one trick – how to make food and wine taste even better. We learnt that by blocking our noses while tasting the food or wine, and then releasing it to have air flow in a sudden rush… it was amazing and it really worked. We could all taste
The following day we visited the town of Haro. Charming, quiet and clean, this village will stay in my heart forever. It’s architectural heritage including the main entrance of the Santo Tomás Church, the work of Felipe Vigarny, and the old town, which was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1975 are just a few of the treasures here. One of Haro's biggest claims to fame is that it was the first town in Spain to have electric street lighting! We stayed at the historic Hotel Los Agustinos, which was an old convent, then a prison and a mental institute before becoming the 4 star hotel it is today. The courtyard is covered by a glass roof and it is known as one of the best places to stay in Haro.
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The next day we visited the Cune wine estates which are situated in a very clean historic building. The wine tasting was the best part and they treated us to some delicious and very old vintages. Oddly enough, the wine cellar was something from a Vincent Price horror film, very dark, musty smelling and full of spider webs…perfect to visit. As a contrast, we visited a young and modern winery-hotel-restaurant called Finca Los Arandinos. Located on top of a hill with a magnificent view of the vineyards, the building was brand new, and had very avant-garde hotel rooms. After a great lunch, we were treated to a wine wrap / massage - it was so relaxing and invigorating that I fell asleep! In the following days we would visit the Santo Domingo de la Calzada Cathedral and the famous Monasterios of Yuso and Suso in San Millán de la Cogolla. The Cathederal has always been linked to The Pilgrimage of St. James and there were many hikers on the St. James path. There is a legend of a German Pilgrim called Hugonell who was walking to Santiago with his parents. They decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and the owner’s daughter fell in love with him. When spurned, she framed him for robbery and he was hung for the crime. His parents continued the pilgrimage, and upon their return, they found their son still hanging in the gallows miraculously alive. “Santo Domingo brought back me to life, please go to the Mayor´s house and ask him to take me down”. The incredulous Mayor, who was preparing to have dinner with friends, responded: “That boy is as alive as these two roast chickens we are about to eat,” and suddenly, the chickens came to life, sprouted feathers and beaks and began to crow, and so, to this day there is a saying about the town which goes: “Santo Domingo of the Way, where the roosters crow after being roasted”.
said that the Castilian (Spanish) language was born. Well preserved historic buildings and storied past were ever-present, and date back to the 6th century! The last meals of the trip were spent at two very nice Michelin Star restaurants, the first being Venta Moncalvillo where food, presentation and atmosphere are all ingrediants to peeper your dining experience! The head Chef met with us and gave a tour around the garden where they grow their own food – his passion for what he was doing was infectious. The evening would bring a second meal at yet another Michelin restaurant, the Echaurren Hotel Gastronomico, which was also where we were staying for the night. The restaurant is nestled in the fun town of Ezcaray, which offers cultural eventsthroughout the year Festival International de Jazz de Ezcaray, the Mycological Conference in the fall, its classical music season, its carnival and many other celebrations to enjoy. The restaurant owners, Marisa and Felix, are the fourth generation of the family and received top honors for their restaurant, including the National Gastronomy Award for Best Chef and their sons Francis and Joseph Felix, are the fifth generation of the family and are guiding the establishment into the twenty-first century. The next morning we were up and out very early, this was going to be a perfect ending to a perfect tour of Riojas! I can think of no better way to say goodbye than in a hot-air ballon ride over the breathtaking countryside and beautiful towns of Riojas. The conditions were perfect, and we were greeted by many locals with a smile and a wave. It was hard to wake from this lovely Rioja dream!
Visit: www.spain.info/en_CA/ The trip through the past continued at the Monasterios of Yuso and Suso, where it is
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by Jennifer Merrick
“Looking forward to things is half the pleasure of them,” says Anne Shirley in Lucy Maud Montgomery’s classic children’s book Anne of Green Gables. And I have been looking forward to visiting Prince Edward Island ever since I read the antics of the feisty romantic orphan whose love for the beauty of her new island home is as much a part of the story as her comic antics. I’ve re-read the book many times since, most recently to my daughter who with her red-hair and freckles looks remarkably like my beloved heroine. Blessed are those who expect nothing, for they will not be disappointed,” said Mrs. Lynde, Anne’s no-nonsense neighbor.
As I’m crossing the Confederation Bridge from New-Brunswick with my family, I’m worried that this province, which has such a grip on my imagination can’t live up to my high expectations. After all, this is the land of the ‘Lake of Shining Waters’ and ‘White Way of Delight’. But when I see the red sands, and they are exactly what I thought they would be, I know the island won’t disappoint. And it doesn’t. It charms us. Of course, the island has changed along with the world since the book was written in 1908, but Anne is everywhere. At least her spirit is, which lies in the young girl’s exuberant zest for life and in her ability to wonder at the beauty around her. So we find Anne not only in the Cavendish tourist sites like Green Gables Heritage Place and Avonlea Village, but also when we’re biking the Confederation Trail, where every turn reveals new views of the sea or fields edged with wildflowers, and when we get a close-up view of bald eagles on the red sands of Boughton Island. PEI has so many places with ‘plenty of scope for the imagination’, as Anne would
say, but here’s where we feel her presence the most.
Green Gables Heritage Place A true Anne pilgrimage site, this historical house was Lucy Maud Montgomery’s inspiration for Green Gables, Anne’s adopted home. Anne herself didn’t live here because she was a fictional character (hard for Anne fans, myself included, to admit this), but the details of the Victoriandecorated rooms hold true to the book, including a puffed-sleeved dress. Outside my kids run around the grounds, and my red-haired Anne meets the resident redhaired Anne, both, of course, spelled with an e. We finish our visit with a walk through the Haunted Woods, where we wander through Lover’s Lane and trails, where the author chose to set many of her stories. Interpretive signs detail how these places inspired the prolific author. “The woods always seem to me to have a delicate, subtle life all their own,” reads one, a quote from Montgomery’s diary.
stop for one of the best fish and chips on the island, Rick’s Fish ‘n’Chips.
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Cow’s Ice Cream
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“You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy ice cream which is the same thing,” reads one of the t-shirts at PEI’s celebrated creamery. My kids can’t agree more. We indulge more than once on our travels around the island, and even bring home some of their dangerously delicious chocolate covered chips. There are several location, but if you’re interested in doing a tour visit the Cow’s Creamery (397 Capital Drive, Charlottetown).
Digging Giant Clams Anne would have thought this adventure as splendid as do we. From the fishing village of Georgetown, located on the east side of the island, we hop aboard a lobster boat, where we meet our captain, Perry Gotell, a fisherman with long roots on the island and owner of Tranquility Cove Adventure. As we cruise to various spots, Gotell tells us about lobsters, mussels and his own childhood spent clamming on Boughton Island.
Avonlea Village of Anne of Green Gables At this recreated early 20th-century village, the characters and the setting of the book jump off the pages. We wander through the buildings joining in the activities that range from hands-on crafts and old-fashioned games to dress-up and theatre. Actors do a wonderful job of staying in character, so you can chat with Anne’s favourite teacher, Miss Stacey, or see what trouble mean Josie Pye gets into. The highlight for the kids is the 1908 county fair where they participate in potato sack and three-legged races and sack tosses. They love the pig race, too, a definite novelty for city slicker kids!
Confederation Trail Flat and scenic is a good combination for two wheels, and cyclists come from all over to ride the Confederation Trail, a 470 kilometer recreational path. We rent bikes in Morell at Kingfisher Outdoors (7699 St Peters Rd) and enjoy Anne-worthy views as we cycle the 15km to St. Peter’s, where we
But the real fun begins when we get the chance to dig for giant clams. Decked out in wetsuits and masks and snorkels, we plunge into the cold water. One of the fishermen points to a small bubble in the sand and sure enough underneath is a giant clam, which is raked up and plunked into the bucket. I’m thrilled when shortly afterwards, I find my own clam without any help, as are the kids and the others on the tour, and in no time we have enough for our beach picnic. My daughter and I stroll down the red, red, sand that stretches for miles. We spot eagles in the distance and slowly advance towards them, curious to see how close and we can get. Surprisingly, we edge to about 6 feet of one of the majestic creatures before it takes flight. My daughter picks up a feather before we walk back to our group, who is gathered around a large pot where are freshly caught seafood is boiling. www.tcapei.com ‘It's delightful when your imaginations come true, isn't it?’ says Anne. And finding Anne on Prince Edward Island is indeed delightful. www.tourismpei.com www.avonlea.ca American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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T u n i s i a T h e Fa b u l o u s S o u t h
Article & images by Michael Morcos
H
eat is one thing, but the 19 desert in Tunisia brings it to a whole new level! Luckily there are small havens throughout the country that can help you cool down and relax! Started by the Roman Empire, Tozeur's oasis is a paradise containing some 400,000 date palms, in place to provide shade for the myriad of fruit trees (peaches, apricots, pomegranates, figs, citrus fruits and bananas) throughout the immense plantation. The palms yield between 25,000 and 30,000 tons of dates each year, and include a limited 1,000 tons of top quality deglat en nour dates, which are particularly aromatic, semisweet, not too soft and grow only at the tips of palms. On top of the high quality soil needed, this arid oasis needs a lot of water. Engineering has filled the need with 1000 liters of water (per second) supplied from a multitude of ground sources. A short 10 minute drive from the old town and right in the middle of an oasis in Tozeur is the Diar Abou Habibi. This relatively new eco-lodge is a nicely furnished, comfortable and clean. Rooms are individual bungalows in the palms with beautiful baths, a fridge, TV, coffee maker and minibar. All the comforts of home, plus they deliver a breakfast of croissants and eggs to your room whenever you want.
Chak-Wak
Camels at the Stars Wars Movie set, Onk El Jemal
A highlight of any Tunisian trip is this very strange, odd and completely original park. Throughout the beautiful grounds are a gallery of what basically amounts to a 3D museum educating visitors about evolution, history and religion. The full size dinosaur replicas were particularly impressive, as were the excellent historical section with Hannibal and the Carthaginian wars, and the gallery of religious icons of the world's major religions including prehistory from a biblical Adam and Eve perspective. The life sized Noah's Arc and parting of the red seas were brilliantly kitschy!
Eden Palm –palm Museum At first sight the Eden Palm palm museum may look like an usual choice for a visit, but once inside, you will discover a charming visit. The tour comes in two parts starting in the garden looking at multitude of palms and then an indoor tour. Our guide was passionate about American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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date palms and it was quite infectious as he shared his enthusiasm with us. The garden is filled with many fruit trees growing under the multiple layered palm canopy. You even learn about the "private" life of the date palm and the way that palm wood is transformed to make pieces of furniture and decorative items. Inside, there are wonderful displays showing its history and a range of date products for sale, a visit of a production unit of date syrup, used to make a lot of tasty products including "date honey", "date butter", "date jam with cinnamon", and all is for sale. You can relax at a small cafe before heading back to the hot world outside. We stopped at Nefta for panoramic view. Nefta is a town of cube-shaped, flatroofed houses huddled closely together, with Tozeur-style architecture made from local kiln-fired clay or mud bricks. In some of the streets, the upper stories of the houses are held up on round- headed arches, project over the street and form a kind of tunnel offerings protection from the sun. The next destination is a must for any fan of the Star Wars films - Onk El Jemal, dubbed the “Real Star Wars”. Luckily for fans, there are actually old sets of the Star Wars films that have been left untouched in the middle of the desert and it is an often-visited tourist attraction!
Sahara, with an interesting collection that explores traditional Saharan life, and the founder and curator will courteously offer visitors a fascinating tour of the collection. Through the main square, where all the tourist wares are on display, visitors can enter into the bustling local market for fruit and vegetables, dates and olives, bread and other delicacies. You can find good restaurants and cafés in Douz, or you could even go into the desert and make the sand bread "Mella" with dates!
Sunrise over Lake Tozeur Chott El-Jerid is basically a rest stop between Tozeur and Douz and is the largest salt pan in the Sahara Desert. The salt crusts are unstable and the lake can fill and empty in a heartbeat, so it can be very dangerous to walk on. Like most groups, ours stopped here to enjoy the extraordinary sunrise over the salt pan and it is well worth the stop!
Racing across the desert There is some adrenaline inducing adventures for those who are thrill seekers. We visited ‘Pedase’, where desert based sports took centre stage. There was camel riding, racing up and down the dunes in 4x4s, floating in the sky in an ultralight aircraft and Go-karts through the sand. I was an instant fan and like a kid I did them all!
Kairouan Dinner at ‘‘ DAR DEDA’’ which serves simple, local, gourmet cuisine without pretension, in a small room with warm colors. The special of the day was young camel, I passed for a wonderful all vegetarian dish.
On the last leg of this trip journey took us to Kairouan, the old capital of the south and the drastic change of scenery as we left southern desert and approached more fertile north.
Douz The town of Douz is located on the northern fringe of the Sahara surrounded by desert and dry scrub land, but ringed by a large palm oasis. It was an important stop on the trans-Saharan caravan routes, and today tourists come in droves to get a taste of the mighty Sahara for themselves. Within the town lies the Museum of the
Touring the Muslim holy city of Kairouan, which ranks 3rd after Mecca and Medina as a major place of pilgrimage, greets visitors with open arms. We visited a local bakery, a traditional Tunisian pastry shop, the old medina itself and an eighth century well that was still being used. Brought to the surface by using a blindfolded camel, the driving mechanism that drew water up has not changed in centuries. Amazing! A great way to end a trip through Tunisia…enjoying the Kairouan specialty mouth-watering baked goods like that of the Makraoudh and Zelbia, usually made with sugar and various nuts, like pistachios!
www.tourismtunisia.com
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C r u i s i n g s e c t i o n The Aranui III on the Island of Ua Pau, the Marquesas, French Polynesia See article on page 28
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Princess Cruises has debuted its 20162017 Exotics program which will take guests to fascinating cruise destinations around the globe. With 58 departures ranging from three to 111 days. The diverse deployment includes four cruise ships sailing on 38 unique itineraries throughout six continents, visiting 70 destinations and 40 countries. Guests will be able to book cruises to South America, Southeast Asia, Japan and China. In addition, cruisers will experience less-traveled ports aboard the cruise line’s small ship that will circumnavigate the globe on 111-day World Cruise sailings roundtrip from Los Angeles or Ft. Lauderdale.
www.princess.com Silversea Launches New Collections of Speciality Expedition Cruises Recognising the broad variety of passions of adventure travellers, Silversea Expeditions has launched new collections of speciality expeditions offered on select sailing dates, the speciality expedition voyages are briefly recapped as follows: Birding & Ornithology, Wellness, Photography, Diving and Culinary Expedition Voyages. To support this launch, six attractive mini-brochures are available in traditional print format and as digital flip books, ranging from six to eight pages. Each provides an overview of a particular speciality cruise programme and a calendar of sailing dates. They can be requested or downloaded at http:www.silversea.com/brochures/
Regent Seven Seas Cruises Introduces Seven Seas Explorer With a one-of-a-kind, opulent 3,875square-foot suite, extravagantly designed lounges and showplaces, and lavish gourmet restaurants, Regent Seven Seas Cruises is setting a new standard for luxury vacations with the launch of Seven Seas Explorer.
AMAWATERWAYS New Boat AMAPURA sets sail in Myanmar
AmaPura offers travelers an ultra-comfortable, elegant experience, combined with an immersion into the local flavour and culture of Myanmar, which has recently been ranked one of the fastestgrowing, emerging destinations in the world. AmaPura is named after the former royal capital of Amarapura, meaning “City of Immortality” in Sanskrit. The line’s first ship to sail in Myanmar, the 28-suite AmaPura was christened in fall 2014. It features custom-designed public spaces and suites and allows passengers to choose from private French balconies, outside balconies, or twin balconies, which consist of a French Balcony with a second full-sized step-out balcony. AmaPura’s elegant public areas include a restaurant, main lounge and bar, as well as a pool and Sun Deck, where guests are welcome to enjoy the views accompanied by a refreshing cocktail. The ship was designed to provide an unparalleled, ultra-comfortable experience and is beautifully furnished with a combination of traditional and modern themes. A shallow draft allows for yearround navigation along Myanmar’s extraordinary Ayeyarwady River.
www.amawaterways.com
At 56,000 gross-registered tons and carrying just 750-guests, the all-suite, allbalcony ship will boast the highest space ratio in the cruise industry, and is designed to be the most luxurious ship ever built, with every inch of the vessel evoking elegance and grace. With its debut in summer of 2016, Seven Seas Explorer will offer guests another exciting option to explore the world with Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ signature brand of all-inclusive luxury. www.rssc.com
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FIRST SHIP FOR VIKING OCEAN CRUISES LAUNCHES NEW ERA IN DESTINATION-FOCUSED TRAVEL Viking Ocean Cruises’ (www.vikingoceancruises.com) first ship, Viking Star, has embarked on her maiden voyage from Istanbul to Venice on April 15, 2015, thus launching the travel industry’s first entirely new cruise line in a decade. Developed from the ground up to return the focus of cruising to the destination, Viking Ocean Cruises also has two additional sister ships on order – Viking Sky and Viking Sea – all of which will sail itineraries in Scandinavia and the Baltic; and the Western and Eastern Mediterranean. Light-filled with modern Scandinavian décor, Viking Star was designed by experienced nautical architects and engineers, including the same interior design team responsible for the award-winning fleet of Viking Longships. Throughout the ship, details were incorporated to pay homage to Nordic heritage and to help guests immerse themselves in local surroundings. A glass-backed infinity pool cantilevered off the stern offers unobstructed views; indoor-outdoor spaces offer more options for al fresco dining than any other vessel in its class; huge windows and skylights blur the lines between inside and out; and a wrap-around promenade deck nods to a bygone era of classic ocean liners.
Holland America Line’s new ms Koningsdam to Homeport at Port Everglades for Caribbean Cruises in Winter 2016/Spring 2017 Following its inaugural Europe season in 2016, Holland America Line’s new ms Koningsdam will homeport at Port Everglades in Fort Lauderdale, Fla. The ship will sail a series of Caribbean voyages and one cruise to the Bahamas from November 2016 through March 2017. Koningsdam’s Caribbean itineraries will be available for booking in late spring. The seven-day cruises visit popular ports in the region, while the longer 9, 10 and 11-day itineraries provide more time for exploring and include a diverse array of islands with exciting, off-the-beaten-path calls. A four-day cruise to the Bahamas kicks off the Caribbean season. All voyages are roundtrip from Fort Lauderdale. “We are excited to sail Holland America Line’s newest ship from Port Everglades on the most varied and robust Caribbean itineraries of any of our ships,” said Orlando Ashford, president of Holland America Line. “The Caribbean remains among the most popular cruise destinations in the world, and by having itineraries that range from four to 11 days guests will be able to enjoy a vacation that fits their schedule.”
About ms Koningsdam Currently under construction at Fincantieri’s Marghera shipyard in Italy, Koningsdam represents a new Pinnacle Class of ship for Holland America Line. When it sets sail on its Premier Voyage April 8, 2016, the vessel will debut several innovative concepts and new public venues while still featuring popular amenities guests associate with Holland America Line.
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Onboard Viking Star, clean lines, woven textiles and light wood evoke the Viking spirit of discovery and connection to the natural world. A carefully curated collection of Scandinavian artwork adorns the walls of the restaurants and public spaces. In the two-deck Explorers’ Lounge at the bow of the ship, the décor was inspired by ancient Viking trade routes and navigation methods – imagery of star constellations and astronomical maps are complemented by antique globes, astrolabes and sofas with cozy pelts. In the Spa, the holistic wellness philosophy of Scandinavia is in mind – from the Nordic ritual of the hydrotherapy pool and the first Snow Room at sea, to materials inspired by Scandinavian nature.
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VIKING STAR SETS SAIL ON MAIDEN VOYAGE
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The Allure of the Seas: the float by Nicole Gauthier
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hat a stunning site to behold as you step into the grand hall of the Allure of the Seas!
So big, so beautiful! My first concern was how would I ever be able to find my way around here without getting lost, but soon realised that it was not going to be too hard as everything is well indicated with signs and the ever-present staff were always helpful to give us directions when needed. A further wave of relief came over me when we were handed our sea pass and
told to put away all other documents we had - passports, wallets, IDs - as they were not going to be needed for the rest of the week! One little plastic card, the Sea Pass, became our identification card with our room number, table number for dinners and, of course, our credit card for drinks and casino or boutique purchases. Before roaming the `city`, we wanted to check out our room. We had a balcony room that looked onto the ocean, a treat as we could see all the action as we entered ports of call. It was also a wonderful place to sit quietly outside by our-
selves and enjoy the atmosphere for a few minutes before dinner. The Allure of the Seas has rooms on the inside of the ship which have views overlooking either Central Park or the hand crafted Carousel. If I ever come back on the Allure I would try a room on Central Park, for its warm ambiance, with its trees, plants, bistros, cafes and walking trails all made more charming with music for us to enjoy whenever we wanted to. We enjoyed it all, regardless. Walking around, it is easy to forget that you are on a ship. It is more like visiting a
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The gym was filled with modern equipment and trainers ready to help, and for a thrill there were two 43 foot high rockclimbing walls. After exercising or a good circuit training, jog or walk, there are tons of spas and saunas to loosen up tired muscles! Talk about relaxation! It is an art form on the Allure of the Seas! At one end is the full-service VitalitySM Spa with thermal suite and an extensive treatment menu, coupled with a state-ofthe-art Fitness Center offering yoga and tai-chi. There are 4 pools spread throughout the ship, including the Solarium, an adults-only retreat as well as 10 hot tubs, two of which are then cantilevered whirlpools overlooking the ocean! Other areas of hidden and not-so-hidden rest and leisure include the wonderfully decorated Diamond Lounge with ocean views that cannot be equalled. There is a finely furnished library with books for all tastes and a solarium where we could sit in the shade or the sun, on a beach bed or lawn chair or eat at the bistro.
tinations: Labadee in Haiti, Falmouth in Jamaica and Cozumel, Mexico.
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On excursion, we particularly enjoyed Labadee for its beautiful sandy beaches, and as a treat, since Labedee is owned by Royal Caribbean, service and lunch is served in the same manner as if we were on the ship. We loved Falmouth. The highlight for me was the local craft market with handmade wood carvings, for my husband it was the river raft trip! While drifting through beautiful forests, we had guides offering a detailed narrative and told us the history of the area. Before heading back to the ship, we enjoyed a traditional Jamaican jerk beef and chicken meal. Delicious! The only tour excursion we did was a tour of Cozumel. All the Taxi drivers speak English and you can negotiate the fee to tour the island. A new friend from the ship was an old hat at these negotiations and he found one and off we went. We learned a lesson that day. We should have booked on board as it turned out that our taxi driver did not speak English or French!
And then there was the food.
ting city! new city with theaters, pools, boutiques, restaurants, bars and so much more. On each deck we discovered new treasures, including three theaters featuring comedy and Broadway shows, a mini golf course, sports facilities and much more. The ship is packed with everything from ping-pong to a full size basketball court and even an ice rink. For the more daring, there is a Zip line, nine decks in the air and 82 feet long. If air isn`t your thing, enjoy the two surf simulators!
Truly like a city, there were over 25 dining options, including the aforementioned bistro. From spicy Mexican favorites, to steakhouses to buffets and fine, classical dining rooms, it was impossible to get to everything available – though I tried hard! Each meal offered an opportunity to meet fellow cruisers, and if for some reason it did not work out, we always had the option to change. The people we sat with were couples old and young, families and singles from around the country and the globe and we enjoyed their company throughout the week. We kept in mind our budget limit for both shopping, of which there was abundance of choice, but also in choice of excursions. This cruise took us to 3 Islands des-
The option is always available, you may always return on board, to sit by the pool, eat, relax or do anything you desire. My husband likes to have a little nap in the afternoon and I would go by myself to explore the floating city a little more. I felt like a bird exploring its new environment. It was a beautiful week; where else can you during a whole week walk in a city have a coffee or lemonade, with a piece of pizza or pastry sitting in a bistro and not have to reach into your pockets to pay for it? What more could you want out of a vacation away from home. We would recommend it to anyone of any age!
www.royalcaribbean.com
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Article & Images by Michael Morcos
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e are so fortunate to live in a world so filled with oysters and pearls! One such oyster is the Marquesas Islands, part of the French Polynesia. This part of the world is a tourist paradise, and though many venture straight for Tahiti - fascinating and beautiful in its own right - but if you want to really immerse yourself in the true spirit of these beautiful islands, you must visit some of the smaller islands. These pearls of Polynesia are less inhabited and commercialized but are amazing in their own right, and well worth exploring. From exotic cuisine to crystal clear ocean water, each locale we visited welcomed us with open arms, full plates and open doors to their villages, which was nice as I spent a large portion of the trip island hopping around the Marquesas!
Cruising on the Aranui 3 Our cruise was a special boat, as, unlike most cruise ships, the Aranui brings passengers and cargo through the Marquesas Islands. The dual purpose brings joy to both the cruisers and the locals enjoy the necessary supplies that are provided to residents. As with most similar lines in Europe, North America or Asia, this ship holds about 200 passengers and offers great cabin space. Among indulgences offered on board, guests can enjoy a lazy afternoon by the pool, sunbathing on the spacious deck area or other fun activities.
wonderful, and only way to see most of the islands in this chain comfortably and in style.
Hiking in Ua Pu Hiking is a fantastic way to get a feel for the land throughout these islands. On both Hakahau and Hakahetau we were treated to small walks to the best viewpoints available. From these vantage points, we could see how the ocean simply stretches out endlessly around these green islands. We also investigated the iconic mountain spires jutting out of the ground, created by unique volcanic activity.
The Huku Niva group During the journey, we made stops on more than a dozen islands, though there never seemed to be enough time to really explore any of them properly. This was a
The past volcanic activity of the islands has also created picturesque bays that are a pleasure to explore. Some travelers took
and speak highly of the calm and beautiful environment. Near the grave sites are cultural centers that explain more about their contributions to this multi-faceted destination.
The locals in Fatuiva Fatuiva is where visitors are able to see the skills of the residents who call these islands home in action. Guests were given a demonstration on how to create several everyday items used, like Tapa, or bark cloth, and umu hei, or bouquets of flowers. Also on the schedule was a visit to the local school where a live presentation performed by the students took place. They were dressed in traditional costumes and perform a Polynesian style of dance. souvenirs of the crafts are also available in the village and the purchase of local, handmade goods is a usual practice on most of the islands we saw.
History and culture in Hiva Oa
the time to go horse riding the Anaho saddle in Hatiheu while others spent the afternoon swimming at the beach. After a day of adventuring, I chose to walk the deck back on the boat and watch the stars fill the night sky, unlike any other place on the planet.
Pilgrimages to Atuona and Vaitahu For many years, these islands have attracted artists and fans of fine art and music. Many make pilgrimages to the Hiva Oa island group to see the graves of painter Paul Gauguin and songwriter Jacques Brel and pay homage to these men's' lives as well as the spirit of freedom found in French Polynesia. Both were extremely talented in their oeuvre and although neither were natives to the islands, they would visit
Foreigners have certainly made their mark on French Polynesia throughout history, but there is also a wealth of rich traditions and stories among the locals. On Puamau, we headed to the archeological site that held a megalithic Tiki, as well as a tomb for the last great ruler and chief of the island. There also some eerie and eye-catching ruins to see in the jungle as we were led by our seasoned guides through the dense forests, we were privy to many stories and a great history lesson.
Faith in the Marquesas on Vaitahu The Missionaries that brought Christian traditions and faith to the marquesas also left an indelible mark on the islands, highlighted by their magnificent churches. Vaitahu has a Catholic place of worship made from stone and wood, framed by amazing stained glass windows and statues. Sanctioned by the Vatican in the 1800s, it remains a meeting place for locals to pray and keep their community ties strong.
Swimming in Ua Huka
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Enjoying the beauty , culture, history and mystery of French Polynesia was incredible, but guests can have just as much fun relaxing on the islands of Vaipee, Hane and Hokatu. The beach offered great opportunities to sunbathe, swim or snorkel near the bay. There is a wild horse population that was introduced to the land by Chileans more than 150 years ago, and the handsome creatures have thrived and now outnumber the human residents!
Residents of Taiohae and Hakahau The locals on these islands have created a relaxing and fun atmosphere, with many people sporting tribal tattoos and big smiles, both of which complement their historical traditions and laid-back attitude. Everyone I connected with and encountered were extremely friendly, helpful and willing to share information, stories and their love of the islands.
Sailing into the sunset on the Aranui At the end of each day, we were rewarded with amazing views from the deck of the Aranui, or enjoying food and drinks inside one of the great lounges. Though the offboat excursions were the highlights of the days, nothing beat returning to my cabin or spending some time socializing at the bar, going to the ship's gym or simply reading a book on the deck. I could not be more pleased with my experience aboard the cruise liner-cargo ship, They have perfected luxury and functionality. I cherished the time I spent exploring the islands and understanding the simple pleasures in life, whether it was seeing a Polynesian dance show at a local school or sipping a cocktail by the emerald green ocean. Sailing and smiling are the way to go.
www.aranui.com
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The Dutch Caribbean triumvirate of Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao (ABC) offer cruise visitors some unique island adventures b y
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Photo: Armando Goedgedrag
Awesome Excursions on the ABC’s
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“Shake and Bake” Scenic Snorkel Tour
Cactus Cocktail Anyone?
Explore the Depths Without Diving
There’s lot of great upscale shopping and a new free eco-trolley for cruise visitors in downtown Oranjestad, and the beaches are within easy reach of the cruise terminal and some of the best in the Caribbean. But if you really want do something different and get a feel of Aruba’s arid and rugged interior then a jeep safari to the scenic natural pool called “conchi” for a surreal snorkel is a must. Some call it the “ shake and bake tour” because it’s hot, dusty and bumpy, and the drivers love to make you bounce -even driving straight up rock cliffs sometimes! But it’s a ton of fun and also covers some of Aruba’s other signature landmarks like the Alto Vista Church and the fallen natural bridge. And no doubt, you’ll be surprised at how arid and cactistudded the interior of the little island is- no wonder they nicknamed it “The Rock”! It is certainly no lush tropical paradise, but it does have a stark and haunting beauty all of its own. And the wild restless sea cresting the natural pool where you snorkel is constantly storming the perimeter causing cold sprays of sea to cascade upon you without warning. It’s an awesome experience and the scenery is stellar. But be forewarned that there is a long steep staircase down to the pool and it’s not handicapped accessible. The rocks can also became very slippery around the pool so take extra caution when entering the water.
Long known as a “Diver’s Paradise” (it’s even on their license plates) Bonaire also offers some fabulous snorkeling right offshore and is also one of the best places on the planet to learn to windsurf at Lac Bai. But if you are seeking something completely different then head to the interior village of Rincon to try the only liqueur in the world made with cactus! Cadushy of Bonaire is a unique distillery founded by Eric and Jolande Gietman offering not only the world’s only cactus spirits but also many other artisanal liqueurs, rums and whisky using ingredients specifically from the Dutch Caribbean islands. You can sample them all in their tasting gardens, try some signature cocktails like their famous Green Bonaire, see how they are made, and purchase some for souvenirs. The small village of Rincon where it’s located was the first established colony on Bonaire. The Spanish settled inland to avoid detection from passing ships. It’s worth a walk about as well to see some interesting historical sites and local culture while you’re there. You can purchase selfguiding booklets at the distillery produced by the Bonaire Heritage Foundation.
Though the city of Willemstad is definitely worth a stroll through for excellent history and culture, after all it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, you might also want to do something very out of the ordinary to explore the island’s underwater beauty. You need not even know how to snorkel (though you must be able to swim,) in order to ride the unique Aquafari vehicle under the waves up to 30 ft. below, You need only breath normally as the air is supplied by a tank to a giant bell helmet. The vehicle moves slowly, and the group is guided and overseen by a diver. These underwater scooters are an incredible way to get up close and personal with marine life without any certification. The adventure is safe, fun and absolutely surreal. You can have a lunch and a beach break at the surfside emporium Pirate’s Bay next next door.
Visit: www.cadushy.com Visit: www.depalmtours.com American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
Photo by Aquafari
DePalm Tours is best outfit to do this tour with-cruise terminal pick-up and drop- off included.
Cruise visitors can visit The Cadushy Distillery through booking a local tour operator- there are many in town right off the dock, ask for a North Tour which includes a stop in Rincon and the tasting gardens.
Visit: http://aquafari.net
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Tips for a Smooth Cruise Vacation by Jennifer Merrick
Pa s s e n g e r s o n A H u r t i g r u t e n C r u i s e
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esley Munslow loves cruise vacations and has been on so many ships, she’s almost lost track. “But at least 16,” she says, “and I have no plans of stopping anytime soon.” Why is cruising her ideal choice for a vacation? Her list is long: “You get pampered, there’s lots of variety, free entertainment and workshops, you can do what you want when you want, it’s good value, you can test the waters on ports of call for future vacations and there’s good food and plenty of it.” She’s not alone. Last year alone, over 12.5 million North American passengers cruised the world’s waterways, and the number continues to grow. Choosing to go on a cruise is an easy decision to make, but deciding which cruise is considerably more daunting. With over 2,800 ports of calls, ships that range in size from a couple of hundred to a couple of thousand passengers, and length of cruises from a weekend to a 107-day around-the-world voyage, the choices can seem overwhelming. And then there’s the smaller concerns like what cabin to get, what to pack and how much to tip. Doing your research is essential to a good experience. Look carefully at the pictures of the passengers on their website or in their brochures, so you can get an idea of the atmosphere on board. Are there kids sliding down a waterslide or diners
dressed formally? Talk to a travel agent. Online, cruisecritic.com, a website that specializes in cruising, is an invaluable resource with more than 50,000 ship reviews and passenger forums to compare notes.
Lights in the winter. It’s not as cold as you might imagine. Because of the Gulf Stream, temperatures along the coast are considerably warmer than comparable latitudes elsewhere.
River Cruises in Europe Knowing what you want is the key to minor decisions as well. Is relaxing on your own balcony your idea of vacation bliss or do you just need a bed to lay your head? Pick your cabin accordingly. Like dressing up? Choose a more traditional cruise. Don’t want to worry about tipping? Look for a ship that adds gratuities automatically. With so many options, there’s no reason not to get what you want.
Where to Cruise The Caribbean’s crystal-clear water and plentiful island ports make it the top choice for cruisers, but there are plenty of other worthwhile destinations, which are often overlooked. Here are a few to consider:
Norway With its 1,250-mile coastline, one of the longest and most rugged in the world, Norway offers a different cruising experience. Hurtigruten cruises, a cross between a passenger liner and a working boat, don’t offer the typical cruise entertainment, but who needs it when you can watch the dramatic glacial landscape pass by? Above the Arctic Circle, experience the midnight sun in the summer and Northern
For centuries, rivers were the lifeblood of Europe and the continent’s cities were built along their banks. Smaller cruise ships take you through the heart of Europe’s cities, and it’s a hassle-free way to experience a multitude of cultures within a short time-frame. The Danube River, for instance, runs from Germany’s Black Forest east through Austria, Slovakia, Bulgaria, Romania and Ukraine – and you only have to unpack once. Or why not visit France on the iconic Seine or discover Spain and Portugal along the River Douro?
New England/Canada Choosing departure ports closer to home can mean significant savings in airfare. The Atlantic coastline along New England and Canada’s Maritimes has everything a cruiser could ask for – a rich and colourful history, vibrant cities and views that will keep your finger glued to the shutter button. Dubbed ‘the new Alaska,’ most of the major cruise lines operate here, so there’s a wide range of itineraries and ports to choose from. Possible activities include seeing the witches’ stock in Old Salem, enjoying Celtic Music and Keith’s beer in Halifax, and whale watching on the St. Lawrence River. American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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Indonesia
Flores and Komodo: Article & images by Michael Morcos
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ust a short a connecting flight from Bali, and travellers can head to an (almost) paradise lost - the island of Flores. Even though it is one of the largest islands in Indonesia, it has been barely touched by industry and tourism. It was the icing on the cake and definitely the best part of the beautiful Indonesian experience.
highland tribes Upon landing, we were taken straight to the highlands where we were to be welcomed by a highland tribe. Throughout the countryside we were met with the warm smiles of the local rice farmers tending and harvesting their crops, and the relaxed atmosphere of those selling along the road.
The road to the tribe’s village was its own adventure, with twists, turns, sharp uphill climbs and dizzying downhill drops. The vertigo and queasiness were totally worth the prize at the top, as the magnificence of the view is stunning. From this vantage point, you feel like Tarzan overlooking his world. The jungles, thick and green only end where the sea begins and the sea
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The best for last
itself is afire with the setting sun. It was a moment to treasure. The next few hours were filled with cultural immersion. The first order of business was a ceremony with the Chief and his family, during which the guests sit in a raised grass top hut and drink a very potent wine, which I believe was a type of rice wine.
Warmed and glowing, we were then treated to a selection of traditional singing and dancing. It seemed that the entire tribe was dressed in beautifully colourful dresses and pants that billowed and moved like sails in the wind. The men staged a brilliantly choreographed fight with long sticks and wooden shields, smashing and jumping in rhythmic and cat-like movements. A
little later, the women staged a bamboo stick jumping dance, in which several long shoots were placed on the ground and moved back and forth while the dancers jumped over them. It was spellbinding watching them – and not one got their feet slammed by the sticks! Throughout this memorable evening we enjoyed the rice wine and fresh hot tea.
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The ambiance, music, fire, drinks and warmth of the host tribe was so moving that I felt like I had been transported to another time and world. The evening concluded and we stayed the night at the Bintang Flores hotel. The complex is quite large and comfortable with lush tropical. Privacy and beauty hand in hand! The Bintang is ideally located for beach lovers, as it faces directly on the ocean.
Komodo Island The next morning was the adventuring portion of the trip, and it started with a thrill and a half! The hot, sunny day made it perfect weather to enjoy the ride out to the Islands of Komodo, Rinca and Pink Beach. And the ride itself was made extraordinary by the fantastic speedboat that we were transported on. Ripping through the waves at high speed, the wind in your hair and the saltwater taste on the lips – could anything be more awesome than that? Approaching the islands, the slowing speed helped us to appreciate the sapphire-blue waters, and multitude of fish swimming around us. Upon reaching the island, it was a direct start of our trek to see the Komodo dragons and the other wild animals and birds. The first adventure was on Komodo Island. I was reminded of King Kong’s skull island, filled with giant monsters ready to feast! The island is a small one, measuring 280 square kilometers, and is located between the islands of Sumbawa and Flores. When we finally saw the island’s namesake creatures, they did not disappoint. These famous giant monitor lizards are considered the last of their kind remaining in the world today. Komodo Dragons are massive relics from earths dim past, thought to be descendants of giant lizards that roamed the islands millions of years ago.
Pink Beach snorkeling A morning of monsters was followed by a visit to Pink Beach for snorkeling and swimming. Pink Beach is one of the most famous tourist destinations in Komodo National Park and features a beautiful white sandy beach, amazing underwater life and a stunning panorama with the surrounding area. The beach’s name was acquired by the colored sand, created by the area’s red pipe organ coral broken into tiny grains and mixed in with the sand, and was named Pantai Merah (Pink Beach) as the locals call it. This beach has beautiful and diverse fish and corals, and the crystal clear water made the snorkelling an amazing search for unique sea life. Some local artisans are around to offer strings of cultured pearls and carved wooden Komodo dragons.
More Dragons on Rinca Island Rinca Island was next on the day’s adventure list. Rinca Island is a beautiful island situated in Flores, the east part of Indonesia Archipelagos and close to Labuan Bajo. It is part of the Komodo National Park and a UNESCO world heritage site. The small dry forest is an ideal habitat it is home to a variety of animals including Macaques, various snakes and more Komodo Dragons. Touring the island involves a short trek to a view point overlooking the sea, stunning and impressive, a true tropical paradise. Rinca Island has been appointed to be a Komodo Conservation Area, is opened for the public and the best place to visit in Flores. The Komodo Dragons seem to know their status, and stay by the kitchen areas of restaurants to feed off passing rats and other animals trying to steal food! Our guides were exceptional and knew exactly where to go, and we were witness to several in the wild. Our last evening was spent enjoying a delicious meal at a popular (believe it or not) Italian restaurant. Owned by an Italian ex-pat who fell in love with this part of the world, his restaurant enjoys a prime space in the centre of town. The food was a fusion of Italian with an Indonesian twist, a wonderful mix and ending to this Indonesian odyssey.
Visit: www.indonesia.travel
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elcome to Jaipur, the ‘Pink City’! The walls of houses in the old ‘Walled City’ are painted with a natural ‘pink-wash’ which gives Jaipur its distinctive nick-name. The capital of the glorious state of Rajasthan, Jaipur is a vibrant city steeped in the ethos of history. Rajasthan is the native land of the indomitable Rajput clan of Kings and their imprint on society can still be seen to this day.
1. Sunrise The founder of Jaipur, King Jai Singh II was a scholarly man. He knew the value of nature. And the Sun God, Surya, is particularly worshipped by all Rajput clans, as he is an emblem of the warrior spirit. To welcome the Sun into his city, King Jai Singh II
had a gate, Suraj-Pol, built in his city wall at the point where the sunrise could be seen. Outside Suraj-Pol there is a hill. Atop which is the Surya Mandir, the temple dedicated to Surya. This is the best spot in the whole of Jaipur to view the sunrise. But the beauty of this spot doesn’t end with just the sunrise. There is a wide path that descends down the other side of the hill. Here there is a natural spring in the pass between the steep, barren rock hills. The royals of yesteryears erected a luxurious bathing complex here. Today it is a popular tourist spot with the locals. To make your Jaipur trip memorable, do take a dip in these fresh, natural waters. It is an experience difficult to replicate.
2. City Tour In Jaipur you still have the bicycle rickshaws running. These are powered by human energy, with the driver pedaling you to your destination. We will take a rickshaw (or rickshaws if there is a big group) from Suraj-Pol right through the city to arrive at the City Palace. This will take us through 2 squares, where the major roads intersect. Before reaching the City Palace, you will wonder at the amazing façade of the Hawa
Mahal (Wind Palace). This is a façade of latticed stone-work windows. These were prepared for the womenfolk of the royals to view down into the streets near the old Town Hall. The stone lattice-work is to prevent them from being seen by those whom they are viewing. Inside the City Palace, you will be interested in the Jantar Mantar. This was a unique creation of Jai Singh II. The Emperor in Delhi was so impressed by this display of astronomical instrumentation that he requested one to be built in Delhi. Here the sundials can calculate time to the second. This is all automatic without any mechanical parts. Only dependant on the sun’s rays and the positioning of the dial itself. The City Palace is expansive. The Jaipur royals knew how to live life King-size. Henry Kravis of the legendary leveraged buyout
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firm Kohlberg Kravis & Roberts (KKR) got to experience this personally. When he came to Jaipur in 1989, after the successful takeover of RJR Nabisco, he was invited to a luncheon with the erstwhile King, Sawai Bhawani Singh. To cool the air, pedestal fans blew the fragrance from rose-scented ice slabs towards the dining table. Henry had never seen such luxury before. You too can experience this exquisite gourmet affair with a lunch at the restaurants here.
J a i p u r 4. Sunset For sunset, we shall now visit another fort; Nahargarh. Originally called Sudershangarh, it was built to protect Jaipur. With the additions of Nahars (Lions) behind it to act a natural defense in the woods, it was renamed Nahargarh. This is the ultimate sunset point in Jaipur. I have seen the sun setting here innumerable times.
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And in your dreams, remember the hospitality that makes the Rajput clan and their land famous. Behold, the land of the Kings; Rajasthan.
About the Author Rohit grew up in Rajasthan. But then travelled the world. Coming back to his roots, he still finds it as charming as his childhood memories. You can find out more about Rajasthan and the rest of India at:
5. Rajasthani Dinner www.transindiatravels.com
3. Amer Fort This was the former citadel of the Jaipur rulers. They conquered and ruled Amer for centuries before founding the twin city of Jaipur. Even today it is a remarkable fortress. The most amazing aspect is the chance to relive being a Maharaja by ascending the slope to the fort on the back of elephants. Maharajas would always be seated atop one when they ventured out of their forts or palaces. The spacious environs inside the fort leave an impression of regal beauty with the lovely manicured gardens and wide courtyards.
Rajasthan is alive with folk culture. It has a huge number of nomadic tribes who all have their own lively folk culture and customs. An excellent place to view this is at a famous resort named Chokhi Dhani (Good Place). Here you can enjoy 4 different types of rides; bullock-cart, horse-carriage, camel and elephant rides. There are magic shows, local dancing girls and tribal craftsmen plying their trades. The climax is the traditional dinner. You are seated on a mat and served each course. There are plenty of second and third helpings. You can eat as much as you dare. There is plenty of Makhan (cream) served which you can apply to your Rotis (leavened bread). Once you are stuffed, you will have the soundest sleep tonight.
www.incredibleindia.org/en
American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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Around The World In ... Germany Neuschwanstein Castle was voted as the top attraction by 15,000 international visitors
San Diego Beaches A Way of Life and a Source of Pride and Joy Neuschwanstein Ca stle
euschwanstein Castle in southern Bavaria is without doubt one of the most frequently photographed sights in Germany. Ludwig II's ambitious project, begun in 1869, united aspects of Wartburg Castle with those attributed to the Castle of the Holy Grail from Wagner's 'Parsifal'. For Ludwig, Neuschwanstein was primarily a retreat. After ascending the Bavarian throne in 1864, he was forced to cede power to the Prussians just two years later, which left him with a hatred of the royal seat of Munich. To compensate, he devoted more and more of his time to the fine arts. After his sovereignty was taken away, he withdrew into his own world of myths, legend and fairytales.
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See Germany’s top 100 attractions:
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f San Diego is known for one thing, it would be for the gorgeous beaches. With 70 miles of pristine coastline, yeararound sunshine and mild temperatures, you can enjoy the surf and sand almost any day of the year. For visitors and locals alike, the beach is a veritable wonderland and the place to spend entire days with family and friends. From expansive sandy beaches, rocky cliffs, reefs, tide pools and everything in between, the beaches in San Diego are as varied as the California beach towns that were built around them. Discover beaches perfect for families and dogs, beaches coveted by the world’s top surfers, or to enjoy a fire, play volleyball, spot sea creatures or simply relax and people watch. One thing’s for sure, on any given day at any beach in San Diego, you’ll find a front row seat to a magnificent display of the western sky as the sun descents into the Pacific. So grab your beach towels, slather on the sunscreen, and get out to explore some of the finest beaches in the world.
www.germany.travel www.sandiego.org/what-to-do/beaches.aspx
China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made “Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around. The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts vitality, harmony and green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.
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N e v i s b y
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C a m p b e l l photo: Nisbet Plantation Beach Club
S t . K i t t s ’ l i t t l e s a t e l l i t e s i s t e r i s l a n d i s l u s h , l o v e ly a n d s w e e t
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was stoked to finally visit little Nevis in the Caribbean West Indies recently.
It’s a tiny island -36-square miles-largely undeveloped and dotted with dormant volcanoes shrouded in mist and carpeted in emerald greens flanked with some beautiful beaches. You can access it by a 6minute water taxi from St. Kitts or more recently by Caribbean Helicopters from Antigua or St Barts. Once an important sugar producing island for the British you witness its plantation past almost everywhere you go. In fact, seems you can’t throw a conch shell without hitting the ruins of a sugar mill, and many of them have been restored to host the island’s handful of unique resorts. Nisbet Planation Beach Club, where I was intending to stay is one of them, and it’s the only one located right on the sea. Nisbet is a storied spot dating back to the 1700’s, most famous for being where Lord Horatio Nelson met and fell in love with Fanny Nisbet. (They were later married at Montpelier Planation.) Upon arrival, the first thing you notice is the impressive stone archway ruins with a staircase that leads to the sky. It’s enchanting. And the beautifully preserved Great House where the bulk of the dining is offered also impresses. But it won’t take you long to realize that though however “grand” this resort appears at first, the vibe is anything but pretentious. In fact, it is one of the warmest friendliest and inviting spots I have ever been. It also won’t take you long to realize that the majority of guests are British- most repeat visitors. The daily high tea might be your first clue, but it’s the constant cheery
hello’s that everyone exchanges –strangers or not- with the distinctive accent that seals it. And as for the staff, they are predominantly native Nevisians. But don’t confuse friendly and easy-going with inefficient. Quite the opposite. The Nisbet staff has just received international accreditation by “Hospitality Assured”, the standard for service and business excellence in the hospitality industry, and in my opinion very well deserved. Though the feeling might be laid-back, and the charming little cottages (36 of them) give you a feeling of a small town holiday village, they don’t skimp on luxuries and amenities. The only thing that’s missing in each room however is a television. But after a day, you won’t miss it once you see that the greatest show on earth is right outside your grand deck via the sea by day and the tropical stars on moonlit waves at night. For relaxation and entertainment there is an infinity pool and whirlpool by the sea, tennis courts, cricket, yoga, kayaks, snorkel gear, or just kicking back with a fun crowd at Sea Breeze- their beach bar/dining spot. But we wanted to explore more of Nevis, so we opted for a day tour. The other resorts are worth taking a look at, as most of them are located on historic sites in their own right. Like Montepelier Planation (Princess Diana stayed there,) a Relais & Chateaux hotel with the only private dining in the world set in a 300-year old sugar mill tower. And the Golden Rock Plantation resort- also in a restored sugar mill- but decorated in avant garde art by its owner/artist from New York. Then there’s Hermitage Resort in what is said to be the oldest wooden house in the Caribbean.
They all have such interesting heritages. The main village of Charleston also has a few noteworthy sights- like the surprise of the public outdoor “spa” right downtown fed by thermal volcanic springs. And nearby is a fabulous and trendy beach/bar/club called Chrishi’s with a great view of St Kitts. And if you head up the mountain to Bananas you’ll find a gorgeous garden shaded oasis with an incredible view of the sea and the rainforest from above. You can easily tour all the points of interest on Nevis in a day. And on the waves, a don’t-miss activity is a snorkel tour with Leeward island Charters, it’s a half-day of fun fish finding and rum punch fueled dancing on the deck. They take off from the Four Seasons Nevis Resort, also worth a tour while you are there. It’s the most modern resort on the island, very luxe, though there is a brand new luxury boutique property called Paradise Beach, which will feature Balinese style beachfront accommodations. Our stay of just four days was far too short, especially since we were told that Nevis has more monkeys than people on it, but sadly, we saw very few. And though the slow pace of this island might actually frustrate some at first, once you surrender- into its gentle rhythms- you’ll never want to leave. We all need time to recharge and reconnect with nature. And taking it nice and easy in Nevis is an ideal way to do so.
Visit: nevisisland.com & nisbetplantation.com American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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Around The World Kenya China
Ol Pejeta Conservancy (O.P.C.)
Suzhou, the "Venice of China
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uzhou, the "Venice of China," is known for its elegant stone bridges, canals, flowing water, and noteworthy architecture. Located in the center of the Yangtze River Delta, approximately 70 miles west of Shanghai, Suzhou is one of the oldest cities in the Yangtze Basin dating back more than 2,500 years. The city boasts the beautifully manicured Classical Gardens of Suzhou, many of which have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Each year, millions of tourists travel to Suzhou to experience the destination’s more than 400 attractions, ranging from pagodas and temples to historical districts and world-class museums. As the largest industrial city in China, Suzhou continues to develop, such as the Suzhou Industrial Park (SIP), which boasts five-star hotels, the iconic Lake Jinji, and Asia’s largest Ferris Wheel.
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uito has started work with UNESCO to preserve and position the Convent of San Francisco as a religious, cultural and emblematic attraction of the city for locals and visitors alike. The program will initially focus on the preservation of the convent’s architecture as well as sustainable tourism practices. In addition, a new audio guide with 21 stories of the convent has been created in both English and Spanish. In 2015, additional work will be done in the conservation and adaptation of new spaces of the convent, as well as exposure of the Franciscan craft brewery.
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ituated between the foothills of Mount Kenya and Aberdares is Kenya’s best kept conservation havens, the Ol Pejeta Conservancy. The Ol Pejeta Conservancy is one of the only wildlife protection areas that’s home to very high numbers of endangered species. Aside from the big 5, more than a thousand different mammals and bird species roam the wild. A safari into the O.P.C will let you enjoy the company of rescued chimpanzees as you learn about the stories of torture they went through in captivity in West and Central Africa. This is actually the only place in Kenya to see chimpanzees and you can have a chance to adopt one of them! On a game drive, you can visit the largest black rhino sanctuary and learn about the conservation efforts that are conducted to protect these endangered species. After the single largest translocation process, with the Kenya Wildlife Services and neighboring Lewa Conservancy, the O.P.C is home to 88 black rhinos. You could also make a donation to help more conservation activities for these endangered species. Aside from black rhinos, O.P.C is also home to a founder population of 11 southern white rhinos and 4 northern white rhinos in a separate sanctuary. Visit this conservancy and get to appreciate as you explore Kenya’s wilderness with the help of well trained professional guides. Staff at the O.P.C always target to meet your personal needs. All tourists are treated as individuals. They give you a chance to set your schedules, explore at your own pace and discover the wild in your own way.of Maresha and Bet Guvrin in the Judean Lowlands. For more information visit:
www.magicalkenya.com www.quito.com.ec/en
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Exploring the revitalized
Pittsburgh by Habeeb Salloum
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o know the new revitalized Pittsburgh, especially its throbbing heart, is to see it from Mount Washington and to explore its Strip District. To experience the city, these two tourist attractions are a must and can be done on a one day tour. The best way to begin is to rent a car and head to the spectacular breakfast and brunch restaurant, Waffles, INcaffeinated. The restaurant offers all types of delicious morning delicacies. From the dozens of varieties of waffles (you can even order them gluten-free) to the strawberrybanana crepes, omelets, steak and eggs combo for breakfast and brunch, once sated, one is then ready to leave for Mount Washington. The drive should begin along Grandview Avenue that travels along the entire length of the mountain top - stopping here and there to view the panorama of the city from between homes and restaurants. Also, four overlook decks that protrude from the mountain at various points along the Avenue allow one to absorb the fabulous view and to take pictures. It is truly a marvelous sight. Yet, even though it is a super vista during the day, the view is more stunning in the evening. From the mountain one should drive to Pittsburgh’s Strip District, park the car, then spend some time exploring the area to enjoy its many tasty foods and offerings and its multicultural ambiance.
Photo courtesy of VisitPITTSBURGH The district’s authentic ethnic foods, eateries and retail outlets dot the area’s one and a half square miles of land and when the weather is sunny and temperate, the whole historic district is a beehive of activity and fun. The aroma of freshly roasted coffee and freshly baked breads saturate the atmosphere and people moving back and forth seem to be happy and content. It's worth the adventure into this world of local flavours.
the mountain top visitors can make their way along Grandview Avenue and stop at one of the observation spots to view the city in all its nighttime glory. On both sides of Grandview are restaurants, homes – some luxurious - and night-spots that crowd the sides of the avenue. The night air is clean and invigorating as the lights sparkle everywhere from both the city and its skyscrapers and more than 15 of its bridges.
Shopping in the Strip is a tradition for Pittsburghians as this is the district to purchase products such as homemade Old World cheeses, olive oils, prepared meats, spices, clothing, antiques, and other goods not easily found in the greater city. It is a great way to end a tour of the ethnic Strip district with its exotic foods.
Below, the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers join together to form the mighty Ohio River. Their waters glow in the semidarkness. Once totally polluted from the steel mills and other industries, they are now if not totally clean, almost free of pollution. It is an urban centre of lights in all its splendour. Paris, move over.
After resting awhile and when the time comes to enjoy a good meal, the Cure Restaurant in the city is an ideal dining spot that features in-house cured meats. A fascinating name for a trendy upbeat neighbourhood restaurant, its small menu focuses on local urban Mediterranean foods. A must-try is the chef’s salumi, the highly recommended tender Meyer Ranch Hanger steak with its delicious trimmings or the crispy Heritage Farm Chicken saturated with flavours galore.
Pittsburgh has transformed from a once decaying city to a modern metropolis with a focus on green-friendly architecture, educational research, bio-technology, new software engineering and robotics, just a sampling for the future. And it has been successful. Today, Pittsburgh is a city of cleanliness, environmentally progressive and its people have taken on the role of friendliness. It is an urban centre that is roaring into the future with much potential.
After enjoying a filling and fine meal, a fitting conclusion to the tour is to return to Mount Washington in the early evening to enjoy a panoramic view of the city. On
www.visitpittsburgh.com
American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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C h i n a Xi’an and Its Historic Silk Route by Habeeb Salloum
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or years, during visits, as I roamed through the countries of Asia I often dreamt of the historic Silk Route. Once carrying the goods from China, to the Mediterranean coast and back, it had a great hand in forming the culinary kitchens in that part of the world. Situated strategically at the crossroads of the routes crossing China and Central Asia, the city of Xi’an was the first stop on the famous Silk Route and from here, caravans began their journeys westward, then returned bringing back with them the foods of India, Persia, the Arab world and beyond. Much of the culinary delights of Asia and the Middle East were incorporated into the Xi’an kitchen, creating a unique and tasty cuisine.
Now as I explored the city of Xi’an, China’s metropolis of history, I felt that my dreams of touring a part of the Silk Route while glorying in the food of China was about to be fulfilled. As I meandered through the city, I felt a rush of excitement knowing that I was about to experience what the Silk Route gave to Xi’an and what Xi’an gave to the world through trade and culture as a commercial centre. Xi’an was a treasure-house of historic remains. With a history going back some 3,000 years it became, in ancient times, very wealthy, thus gaining the name ‘Golden City’. Serving as the capital of China for thirteen Dynasties, it became a thriving trading and religious centre. All these activities for centuries have left their mark on the city.
Mosques, pagodas, palaces, and especially the emperors’ mausoleums in Xi’an and its environs have made it a tourist Shangri-la. At the top of all these historic treasures in this city of 6 million, is its Terra Cotta army created by one of China’s most renowned emperors, Qin Shi Huang, who believed it would protect him for eternity. This great archaeological treasure, one of the most sensational finds of all times in China’s long and illustrious history, is an amazing memento to China’s past. One of the most important of China’s emperors, his rule became a landmark in Chinese history. He is credited with standardizing the Chinese script, establishing a unified weight system, replacing hereditary
rulers with a centrally appointed administrative system, instituting agricultural reform and uniting the country by building over 9,660 km (6,000 miles) of roads and 1,600 km (1,000 miles) of canals. Also, he joined previously built defence ramparts to form the first Great Wall of China. However, enshrining his name forever is his Terra Cotta army, which his admirers fondly call the 8th wonder of the world. These clay warriors rank with the Great Wall as one of China’s most important historic sites. Stunning and eye-boggling, the more than 2,200 year-old Terra Cotta soldiers with their chariots, horses and weapons are, without doubt, one of the world’s great wonders, reflecting the pomp and glory of the times. Meant to accompany their Emperor after death, the more than 7,000 life-size clay soldiers, with their battle gear, marshalled in combat formation, ready for battle, give us a glance at one of China’s greatest wonders. Not as significant as the clay warriors, but very impressive are the 600 year-old 14 km (9 mi) city walls, constructed by piling up the soil dug up from the surrounding moat and facing it with bricks. The best-preserved old city walls in China, standing 12m (39 ft) high, they were once topped by 98 towers, 20 of which remain - the most notable being the Bell, Drum and South Gate towers. Another interesting side on the edge of town is the Pan Po Neolithic village, dating back to 4500 B.C. The site has yielded 45 homes, six pottery kilns, 200 storage pits, 250 tombs and 10,000 tools. A Disney-style village has been erected on the site to give visitors an idea of how the original town was at the dawn of civilization. For travellers, an exciting end to their exploration of Xi’an is the Muslim Quarter. In this historic and romantic section, filled with fine eating places serving delicious Muslim food, one can stroll and shop for interesting traditional souvenirs while enjoying the aura of the Chinese-Muslim area. After exploring this exotic quarter, I ended my day at the Tongshengxiang Restaurant. There I relished my niuyangroupaomo (steamed bun soaking in mutton soup), the famous dish for which Xi’an is known.
On the last evening that we were in Xi’an, the city that gave birth to China, we decided to try the epitome of the city’s renowned cuisine. Now seated in the Great Opera Theatre, we anxiously waited for our meal to begin. Soon our waiter was bringing in dish after dish of steamed jiaozis (dumplings) in all shapes and forms, served from bamboo trays. As we relished our seemingly never-ending jiaozis, I could not believe the variety served - 16 types are usually offered as appetizers with a meal but, at times, 800 are served at a feast. All were delicious, delicate and inviting in appearance. They came in countless shapes such as avocados, chicken, cauliflowers, crabs, ducks and endless other versions with each form reflecting the filling. The jiaozis were still coming when a live performance, which would turn out to be fantastic, began. The food had been heavenly, but what followed was real competition. The stunning costumes, music, songs, and dances of the performers reflected those of the Tang Imperial Dynasty. Considered to be the finest representation of cultural history in China, to me, this performance was one of the best I had ever witnessed in all my travels. I was overwhelmed by the beauty, delicacy, and splendour of that evening’s entertainment. When I returned home with the intention of writing a series of travel articles about my trip to Xi’an, my train of thought went back to my many conversations with members of my tour group in Xi’an. Although topics varied with different persons, all agreed that part of the great wonder of the city was its food, lamenting that fact that when they returned home, they could never experience the tastes of Xi’an’s dishes again only unless they returned to this once imperial city. These conversations and Xian’s exhibition of its cultural heritage and its outstanding gourmet food cemented in me the idea of one day writing a cookbook about the foods of Asia bringing together the best dishes from regions along the Silk Route and beyond. I put into effect my cookbook project by gathering all the travel and culinary notes that I had made during my trips to Asia. My
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goal: to simplify complicated Asian recipes yet retain their originality. For many years a good number of my family members, colleagues and friends protested that even though they loved Asian food, it was too difficult to cook. I took their words to heart and began my culinary journey. I experimented with methods on techniques to make things simple and substituted some of the rare spices and other hard-to-find ingredients with alternatives available in North American grocery outlets. In the process, I developed simple to prepare yet authentic Asian dishes. Hence, my cookbook Asian Cooking Made Simple: A Culinary Journey along the Silk Road and Beyond (Sweet Grass Books/Far Country Press: Helena, MT, 2014). The cookbook is a compendium of dishes from Asia’s most typical cuisines from the Mediterranean to China and beyond. It presents 218 recipes from twenty-two distinct cuisines scattered across Asia and the Middle East. For each cuisine, I recount the influences that have shaped the foods, including factors such as the cultural exchange brought by the spice trade, and colonial powers that recreated their favourite dishes far from home. From familiar foods such as General Tso’s chicken, miso soup, and kebabs to lessfamiliar dishes such as Singaporean chile crabs, Uyghur tomato and cucumber salad, and Arabian cardamom coffee, my recipes offer the chance to savour a fresh take on an old favourite or to try something new entirely. The book brings an exotic culinary world within everyone’s reach. For this, I give Xi’an and its food a good part of the credit.
http://en.xian-tourism.com
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Wales
Fairways Article & Images by Cherie DeLory
and
Fairy
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could hardly believe my good fortune while on a golf road trip in the undulating Usk Valley, in Newport, South Wales. I was about to play my first ever 18hole course. But this was not just any course. I adjusted my golf cap and made my way out of the five-star Celtic Manor Resort clubhouse to head towards the fairway of what was to be, in mere months, The Twenty Ten Ryder Cup championship course, hosting the greatest players in golf from around the world. In a country where medieval castles, fortresses and stone ruins harmoniously christen the dramatic Welsh landscape, it was apparent that fairytales do come true. My eyes wandered to a derelict stone farmhouse adjacent to the posh clubhouse. I wasn’t sure which structure looked more out of place amongst the picture-perfect frost-laden Welsh hills and valleys. At least the sheep would have a place to hide from my wayward shots, I thought. The Celtic Manor Resort boasts three world-class courses, a swank clubhouse, Golf Academy, beautifully appointed accommodation, restaurants and bars humming with live entertainment, spa, and boutique shops. I took a golf lesson to tweak my left handed swing, purchased my first pair of snazzy golf shoes, and kicked back in the lounge with a Welsh libation and discussed how I could improve my game in the days to come.
Land of Castles Wales is recognized as a world-class golf destination, with at least 200 courses. And with over 500 castles, the “castle capital of Europe” is certainly one of the most romantic places for tee time. I visited the Rolls of Monmouth Golf Club. This championship course, set on the sprawling estate of automobile tycoon and aviator Charles Stuart Rolls, raises golf to a regal level. The 18th century mansion hosts weddings and private functions. And where the co-founder of Rolls Royce once tinkered in his workshop and garage, is now home to the Rolls of Monmouth clubhouse. Overnight accommodation in an intimate setting is available in one of three cottages located on the property.
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Before visiting the Rolls of Monmouth, I briefly visited the market town of Chepstow and toured the walled town and castle, a short two hour drive from London. Chepstow Castle is the oldest post-Norman castle in Britain. Its remarkable ruins sit atop limestone cliffs over-
looking the River Wye, which forms 45 the border between England and Wales. Nearby Tintern Abbey, in the village of Tintern, is a glorious 12th century stone monastery set amidst the greenery of the countryside, with sweeping ornate arching windows and doorways. The gothic ruins are the best preserved monastery in Britain and its beauty has inspired poems and paintings by the likes of William Wordsworth, Dylan Thomas and J.M.W. Turner. Be sure to stop by the Old Station Tea Room Cafe at Old Station Tintern. The Victorian tea room, tucked in the heritage railway waiting room, has won several tourism awards for best place to eat in Wales. I stayed overnight at the St. Pierre Marriott Hotel & Country Club in Chepstow, an elegant 14th century stone manor with wood-burning fireplaces, two championship golf courses, heated pool and spa. An 11th century stone church sits on the property as well, making for an endearing romantic setting.
Wales Coast Path The next day another round of golf was on the schedule at Southerndown Golf Club. I had a hearty breakfast of fruit, eggs and sausage, and my first Welsh cake (similar to a tea biscuit). On the way, we headed to the coast and the seaside village of Ogmore-by-Sea. Here you can begin a hike along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast walk, part of the newly opened Wales Coast Path. This stretch of undeveloped natural coastline runs 1,400 km from Chepstow to Queensferry. Wales is the only country in the world where you can walk the entire coast from end to end. The Path is accessible from several towns, and some sections are bicycle friendly. The only mileage I accumulated on this day was on the greens at Southerndown Golf Club. This rugged championship course is well liked in the golfing world, rated in the top 13 among Wales. The property overlooks the coast, and the town of Porthcawl, and it’s not uncommon to see sheep grazing a chip shot away in the craggy heathland.
A Slice of Welsh Rarebit My night’s accommodation and dinner was at the Great House, an elegantly restored heritage stone hotel located in Bridgend, a stone’s throw drive from Porthcawl. I was intrigued to try the Welsh rarebit, convinced it was a rare variety of rabbit meat. Boy was I wrong. For the American World Traveler Spring/Summer 2015
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uninitiated, it’s a modest comfort food dish of melted cheese infused with paprika and ale on a slice of toast. What’s not to like? The culinary and spirits scene in Wales is thriving. I pursed my lips and held my breath while sipping back the award winning Single Malt Welsh Whiskey at Penderyn Distillery, located in Brecon Beacons National Park. The sole distillery in Wales has been distilling whiskey for over 100 years. Visitors are shown guided tours of the distilling process and the history of whiskey production in Wales. In the tasting room you can sample more award winners, namely the Brecon Five Vodka, Brecon Gin, and, my favourite, Merlyn Cream Liqueur.
Cheddar in a Coal Mine For a taste of the wild, I foraged for mushrooms in St. Pierre Woods and nibbled on homemade Welsh cheese at the Blaenafon Cheddar Company. Their Pwll Mawr cheddar is matured in the Big Pit coal mine, a decommissioned coal mine in the world heritage village of Blaenavon. It’s now the National Coal Museum and visitors can descend 90 meters into the mine with a former miner. Coal mining was a major industry in Wales, with the seaside town of Barry in the Vale of Glamorgan clocking in as the top coal exporting port in the world, followed by the port in the capital city of Cardiff in the early 1900s. I visited the nearby market town of Abergavenny to explore the Abergavenny Market Hall for local lamb, cheese and dairy, chocolate and produce. Fragrant canary yellow daffodils, the Welsh national flower, are in abundant supply, and remind me that spring has sprung. I’m also told about Britain’s foodie event of the year, the Abergavenny Food Festival. This year it’s the weekend of September 19-20. The biggest and oldest food festival in Wales is Britain’s best kept secret. It brings together the greatest chefs, farmers and fishermen in a celebration of food and drink. It wasn’t long before the inspiring country-
side was a distant memory and I arrived in Cardiff. I drove past The Roahld Dahl Plass, a vibrant outdoor space in the Cardiff Bay. The assuming copper amphitheatre is a nod to Cardiff-born Roahld Dahl, famous children’s author lauded for classics such as “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” and “Esio Trot”, which was recently adapted to the screen in a made for BBC television film starring Judy Dench and Dustin Hoffman. Other upcoming city highlights included dinner at the majestic Cardiff Castle, and a visit to the National Museum.
The Welsh Way of Life My destination for the afternoon was St. Fagans National History Museum where I was invited to escape back in time. The museum is located on the 100-acre grounds of St. Fagans Castle and gardens, a late 16th century manor house (open for tours) donated to Wales by the Earl of Plymouth. Also on the property is an openair museum, which recreates buildings from different historical periods and illustrates the Welsh way of life and traditions. In the mock village you can visit a schoolhouse and perhaps test your knowledge of the Welsh language. Wales may be the smallest country in Great Britain, but what it lacks in geographical size it makes up for in word size. Welsh is the oldest language in Great Britain and it’s not unusual to trip over the pronunciation of a word due to its length, and structure of the vowels. If you can say Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch correctly, you’ve successfully pronounced the longest place name in Europe. It’s a village on the island of Anglesey, in North Wales. Prince William and the Duchess of Cornwall lived on the island for a time after they married. The Welsh village also has a general store, woollen mill, bakehouse, blacksmith, photography studio, and farmyard. Don’t miss the 1920s-style tearoom to savour freshly made Welsh cakes, and a spot of tea. This is Great Britain, after all.
Visitwales.com