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Summer 2012
In This Issue
China Tunisia Nashville South Africa panama whistler
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A word from the editors
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elcome to the Summer 2012 Issue of Canadian World Traveller, which is being distributed across Greater Montreal, as well as in select locations in the Greater Toronto Area. The magazine is now in the ninth year of its publication. This issue, as well as all of our previous 36 issues, are archived on our website at www.canadianworldtraveller.com. In addition, an electronic version of Canadian World Traveller is distributed by email to over 9,500 travel specialists across Canada. Please help preserve the forests of our beautiful planet by recycling this magazine after reading it or better still share it with others.
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Canadian World Traveller
In this issue we start our journey up the mighty Yangtze river in China and then discover the less travelled parts of Tunisia. Next we travel to the musical city of Nashville, Tennessee before we visit the exciting country of South Africa. We also invite you to discover a different side of Panama before coming home to Whistler, British Columbia.
4055, Ste-Catherine Street West, Suite 158 Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8 Tel.: (514) 667-2293 www.canadianworldtraveller.com Email: info@canadianworldtraveller.com Publisher Editor-in-chief Graphic Artist Advertising Marketing Distribution Ecotourism Contributors
Enjoy your Great Summer Travels! Table of Contents
Michael Morcos Greg James Al Cheong Leo Santini Tania Tassone Royce Dillon Dave Taylor Tom Koppel Habeeb Salloum David J. Cox Tania Tassone
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China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Tunisia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Nashville . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 South Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Panama . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Whistler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Front Cover Photo: Yangtze, China Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.
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Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
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China
the mighty Yangtze By Michael Morcos
Adventure and exploration along the Yangtze River in China: Part One No matter how many times you visit China, you are sure to see something new. This was my fourth journey to the massive country and I was able to gain an even bigger perspective on this complex and fascinating destination. With a focus on the cities and villages near the Yangtze River, this trip brought me many miles through China's cultural weave of friendly folks, delectable cuisine and history that has remained a strong presence for centuries. Many areas along the Yangtze are steeped in tradition with can be fascinating to outsiders, as these places emulate a simpler time in the past that can be refreshing and fun to experience.
the banks of the Yangtze, this metropolis with high rises and landmarks was sights to marvel. However, during the summertime, Wuhan can be a very hot and humid place, so packing some light clothing and drinking plenty of water is the best way to beat the heat and avoid missing any of the excitement.
Chinese bells
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The Hubei Provincial museum host traditional shows and demonstrations throughout the year for visitors to attend. I saw a musical performance, where talented artists rang bells to create melodious tunes. Famous cellist Yo Yo Mah once performed here with the bell players. They use replicas for the show of ancient bells that look just like the originals, which are on display in the museum carved with Chinese characters and symbols. Several musicians play the wall of bells at once as deep, relaxing song fills the room.
Viewing the Yellow Crane Tower I love taking in the whole essence of a destination by traversing up hilly inclines and admiring the view. I got the chance at Yellow Crane Tower to see the city skyline of Wuhan, which is surrounded by greenery and the river. Yellow Crane Tower itself is also worth exploring for its curved rooftops and massive staircase, which looks especially breathtaking at night. You can take a peek inside as well to view the lavish furnishings and details of the structure that overlooks Wuhan.
Beijing sightseeing Before going to China's longest waterway, I did spend some time in Beijing. To sum up this giant metropolis in only a few words is next to impossible, since it boast so many facets of sensory delights. On my excursion, I travelled to some of the most notable sites, including the Forbidden City. The palace at the center of this plaza is an iconic part of Chinese tradition and millions visit it every year. Other amazing points of interest in Beijing are the historical Tienanmen Square and long Wangfujing pedestrian walkway. Needless to say, after strolling along that street for a while, I was in much need of some relaxation. Fortunately, there are countless places to indulge in some spa and treatment services, including foot massages. Professionals work their magic and I was ready to continue on my walk in no time.
The city of Wuhan I went to Wuhan from Beijing to see another great Chinese city. With a population of more than four million situated on Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
History at the Hubei Provincial Museum Down in Wuhan, I had the chance to go to the Hubei Provincial Museum. The main exhibition that most guests will want to lay eyes on is a tomb of an ancient emperor. These historical figures often had droves of servants, concubines and admirers that didn't change much into the afterlife. This emperor was buried with various artifacts depicting his lavish lifestyle that represented his loyal entourage. Imagining what ancient life may have been like for these past rulers was made easy by the museum's intriguing exhibits.
Journeying to Jingzhou Jingzhou was the next city on my itinerary, also along the Yangtze River. There is plenty to see and do here, including a walk on the ancient city wall, adorned with flags and temple-like embellishments. In May, fans of nautical sports help host the international dragon Boat Festival, famous for its exciting races and beautiful, traditional vessels. Many also visit Jingzhou for its historical significance, dating back more than two millennia.
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China Continued from page 5
The Chu State Relics Protection Zone Learning at the Jingzhou Museum I was able to grasp an over sense of the Chinese history in the city at the Jingzhou Museum. While a liked peering into the displays of old weaponry and ceramics,
Jingzhou officials made an interesting discovery beneath the city - they found some ancient burial sites of past emperors. To preserve these interesting and poignant relics, they have sanctioned the space protected and have plans to turn it into a museum. Since the uncovering of these remains was by chance, the excavation efforts have offered many jobs to the local people, and we could watch them carefully dig and document their work.
The beautiful Yichang city Before heading out on my cruise of the Yangtze, we made one more stop at a nearby destination that turned out to be one of my favorites. Yichang is a place frozen in time, where many residents live the simple life and encourage guests to do the same by simply taking in the fantastic scenery. Stunning waterfalls cascaded into the lazy river below, which was lined with traditional sailboats and plenty of lush vegetation.
Time for a banquet
the well-preserved body from the Han Dynasty was the star of the facility. Talented, local performers put on several shows at this museum too, so I could enjoy live music and get a good look at some colorful, cultural costumes.
I was honored to indulge in a pleasant meal hosted by the Jingzhou Municipal Government. Cuisine in this part of the world included a wide variety of ingredients, often steamed or fried together. When dining in the city, travellers can come across traditional rice pudding, pork fried and seasoned with brown sugar, or sauteed mountain vegetables. Banquets of course are wonderful, but you can easily have a memorable meal at many local restaurant throughout the area and all along the Yangtze River.
Xiling Gorge Many say this is the prettiest spot of the three gorges for guests to admire, as it provides adventure-seekers the chance to check out hidden reefs, river rapids, colorful wildlife and intimidating cliffs. It is the longest of the three and used to also be the most dangerous to travel, until the dam project helped regulate the flow of the river. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
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Nearby at the Three Gorges Household, I was fortunate to see another cultural show, which was especially welcoming after spending most of the day in the hot sun. Singers and dancers put their best feet forward and demonstrated some wonderfully choreographers numbers that embodied the Chinese spirit of hospitality and style.
impressive construction happening around these dams, as it provides electricity and security to the whole region. At the welcome center, I learned a little about the history of these undertaking and how it is an ongoing work in progress. While there have been great benefits to the dams, several towns have suffered with rising water levels and are still adjusting to the changes. The main Three Gorges Dam is hydroelectric and is the largest of its kind in the world.
Join us in the next issue as we continue our journey through the Yangtze River region of China and continue to regale in its natural, historical and cultural wonders.
For More Info on China: China National Tourist Office 480 University Ave, Suite 806 Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 Tel: 416-599-6636 or 1-866-599-6636 Official Websites: www.tourismchinaca.com and www.cnto.org
The Three Gorges Dam project The Three Gorges has an intricate dam system that keeps the rushing waterways in line and helps maintain harmony by keeping the neighboring towns and shorelines safe. Government officials encourage visitors in this part of China to see the
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Magnificent
TUNISIA
On the less travelled part of the Mediterranean lies sometimes forgotten and sometimes overlooked magnificent Tunisia. On this part of my second trip I would travel north and west to straddle the coast. This would prove to be in great contrast to the dry deserts and the beautiful landscapes to the south. Both are compelling and if I had to choose between a trip to the north or south, I would object by picking a trip to visit both. As in my last visit, we would land in the capital region of Tunis. From here, we would enjoy a relaxing day on the sandy beaches and a rejuvenating Thalassic Therapy message before hitting the road for six days of exploration.
La Palais Du Baron This palace boast an Arabic design which was built in the year 1912 A.D. The renowned La Palais Du Baron was created by French and German artist Baron Rodolphe d'Erlanger. The opulent rooms of this Arabic-Andalusian is comprised of beautiful ornaments, jewels and furnishings inside the massive interior. I found out that presently the palace holds the stamp of the Mediterranean Music Centre where numerous concerts are lined up year-round.
Carthage Port Punique I enjoyed this charming area, also known as the "Sea of Empires." Cartage Port Punique has facilities that have been in service since the pre historic times of the ancient emperors rule in Tunisia. Comprising of the commercialized and military ports, Cartage Port Punique is positioned along high walls. The purpose of these walls was to have a resourceful military port where maximum number of boats could be hidden in the harbour. One highlight of Cartage port Punique is that this area was first battle ground of the first Punic war. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site and hallmarked territory in Tunisia, it gives notice to this city due to its rich history related to the 11th century, regarding the text of the Appian that has been recorded by historians as well as archaeologists.
Tunis Medina
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Tunis Medina is the commercialized and administrative trading hub of the city. Close to the Mediterranean Sea and Lake Tunis, this place has three fractions - the old city or Median, the French Quarter and lastly the northern and the southern parts of the capital. Tunis Medina is segmented among the central core, which still abides by the era of its groundwork, which is the 8th century. This outstanding layout of buildings has been urbanized from a small defrayal which is known as Oppidum tunicense, revealed by Pliny the Elder. The design was completed during the 13th century under the rule of the Hafsid dynasty. The way the doors of the Tunis Medina are decorated along with the engravings of the gems and jewels is a symbol of the sociological importance of the historical times along with the geometric architectural style of art work. Some of the imagery is homage to figures and events such as the Goddess of Fertility, St Augustine of Hippo and the Ottoman Empire in Turkey.
Musee De Bardo Musee De Bardo, which is one of the renowned museums of Tunisia, was originally a palace of the Hafsid dynasty during their rule in the 13th century. Musee de Bardo is located in the outer suburbs of Tunis. This astonishing museum has a colossal collection of Roman Mosaics and antiquities from ancient Greece and Tunisia.
On the road and meeting the locals Travelling through Tunisia is as beautiful as one can imagine. I was able to observe the daily lifestyle of the residents along the seaside. Tunisian agriculture and farms have become a hallmark of the local landscape. I indulged in a road trip on the curvy roads of Tunisia which was an enthralling experience, especially when I was able to stop and have a chat with friendly farmers.
The town of Tabarka My next stopover was Tabarka. I loved this seaside atmosphere of the place, including its amazing waters which are surreal and crystal clear. Two great things to see are the gorgeous Mediterranean corals that that surround the area and an exquisite Genoese castle, framed by the Khroumerie Mountains enriching the spectacular environment. This is the perfect Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
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Tunisia Continued from page 9
playground for sightseers, scuba divers and fans of spending days at the sandy beach in the sunshine.
Bulla Regia Located in the North Western side of the city of Tunisia, Bulla Regia is an archaeological site with the Bardo Museum the city of Jendouba, dating back to the Hadrianic era. The lovely shades of colours is prevalent in the dome shaped architecture. Each subversive dwellings corresponds to the three palaces at the northern end, which can be explored by guided tour. The baths, the forum and the theatre the key places to visit at the archaeological site of Bulla Regia.
Dougga My visit to the mesmerizing theatre of archaeology Dougga was impressive and something I've always wanted to view. This archaeological site has been named a UNESCO site in the 1990s, for its history dating to ancient Roman days.
ly since it looks particularly stunning at sunset.
Port El Kantaoui Positioned at the north of the Sousse of the Central part of Tunisia, Port El Kantaoui was built in 1979 as a large tourist attraction. At this popular spot, I had a wonderful time hitting the links. The 36 hole PGA approved course also has options nearby for paragliding, yachting and water skiing. Taking a walk down the cobblestone streets here is another pleasant activity to try.
The overall town of Dougga is popular for its Islamic influence. For example, the established Mosque of Sidi Sahbi, on the eastern side of the capital, was built during the 14th century.
Kairouan Known as the land of pastries, Kairouan offers mouth-watering baked goods like that of the Makraoudh and Zelbia, usually made with sugar and various nuts, like pistachios. This place is a hallmark of Tunisia, sometimes called the "Cultural Capital of Islam" and is also a UNESCO site. The mosque of Uqba is located here, which is known as the fourth pillar of Islam. The name of this city is derived from the word "Carvan," which means a "Resting Place". This great Muslim pilgrimage site is has distinctive features. In the northwest turn of the yard is a little space with a historical grave plus a burial stone dressed up with green, red and white accents. However, if you are not Muslim, you can only admire this space from the outside.
Colisee El Jem The auditorium at El Djem was made by the Romans under the rule of emperor Gordian in Thysdrus in the year 238 AD. The key purpose to use this space for gladiator shows as well as the fierce chariot races. I found this monument to be one of the most impressive in Tunisia, especialCanadian World Traveller Summer 2012
Medina and Ribat De Sousse Sousse, located in the heart of Tunisia, is a trade hub for processed food, textiles, transport equipment and olive oil, to name a few. The University De Sousse, located in the area, has a rich Roman and Vandal background and is worth a visit. The Ribat today stands as a fort as well as a religious fortification. I reached a level of contentment that is always wonderful to experience when taking trips abroad, as this destination has a fulfilling amount of memorable things to see and do that embody a rich cultural and historical background famous in this part of the world.
Office National du Tourisme Tunisien 1155, Rue University, Suite 1014 Montreal , QC H3B 3A7 TĂŠl. : (514) 397-1182 Email : tunisinfo@qc.aira.com Site Web : www.tourismtunisia.com
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NASHVILLE MUSIC CITY AND SO MUCH MORE by Jackie Sheckler Finch
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In the center stage of the Grand Ole Opry in Nashville, Tennessee, is a special piece of wood. It's from the old Ryman Auditorium. Overt the years, thousands of performers have stood on this circle - Hank Williams, Jim Reeves, Patsy Cline, Porter Wagoner, Dolly Parton, Loretta Lynn, Garth Brooks, Johnny Cash, June Carter Cash. Even a skinny truck driver from Memphis named Elvis Presley. When the Grand Ole Opry moved to its present 4,400-seat home at Opryland USA in 1974, the circular section of the old Ryman stage was taken along as a reminder of the place the Opry had called home for more than three decades. From its simple beginnings on Nov. 28, 1925, the Grand Ole Opry has never missed a Saturday night broadcast. Its audience, at first only a few hundred listeners with primitive radios and crystal sets, has grown to include millions around the world. The Opry is now the world's longest running radio show.
As the daughter of an old-time fiddler player, I grew up listening to the Grand Ole Opry and its legendary performers. On a recent visit, I was curious to see if the show was what I had pictured in my mind as a little girl sitting around the radio with my father. I also wanted to see if Nashville lives up to its nickname of "Music City."
You can get a workout just walking from one end to the other in the resort. The three indoor gardens are the Conservatory, the Cascades and the Delta. The Delta is so huge it even has it own river - big enough to carry passengers on flatboats on a guided tour of the landscaped Delta. Opryland is a people watcher's paradise. I enjoyed strolling through the Magnolia Lobby, sipping a cocktail in the Falls Bar and listening to the live band playing from one of the balconies before adjourning to my comfy room.
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young driver became worried about the lifeless body draped in a navy blue overcoat in the back seat. By then it was too late. Carried into an emergency room, Williams was pronounced dead Jan. 1, 1953. His heart had given out from drugs and alcohol. Williams was 29 years old. "It's an incredibly complex story," said museum curator Carolyn Tate. "You could not make up this story with this family‌ We cried a lot and laughed a lot in creating this exhibit."
COUNTRY MUSIC HALL OF FAME AND MUSEUM
GAYLORD OPRYLAND RESORT The star of Nashville accommodations, the Gaylord Opryland Resort is a destination in itself. Even if you don't stay at this awe-inspiring property, it's worth stopping by to visit. Thousands of folks walk through every day and marvel at the three enormous themed atriums. Opened in 1977, the resort has a whopping 2,881 rooms and 600,000 square feet of meeting and convention space. It also has more than 12 different restaurants and eateries, plus a nightclub, shops, spa, fitness center, three swimming pools and even a radio station.
Early the next morning, I headed downtown to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum for an education in the roots of country music and its many singers and songwriters. Along with a wealth of permanent exhibits and artifacts, the museum also features changing exhibits. One of them that opened in March 2008 has proven so popular that it is being held over through 2011. Personally, I would like to see it become a permanent exhibit.
"Family Tradition: The Williams Family Legacy" traces the personal and professional lives of Hank Williams and Hank Williams Jr. and some of the most influential country music ever recorded. Among the memorabilia is the suitcase that Hank Sr. was carrying the night he died in the back seat of his baby blue Cadillac. Somewhere in West Virginia, Williams'
STUDIO B To see where some of that fantastic music was made, I caught a shuttle bus from the museum to Studio B. Located on historic Music Row, RCA's Studio B is Nashville's oldest recording studio and home to hits like Roy Orbison's "Only the Lonely," the Everly Brothers' "Dream," Dolly Parton's "Jolene" and 250 hits by Elvis Presley including "Are You Lonesome Tonight." Known as the "Home of 1,000 Hits," Studio B opened in 1957 and closed in 1977. A few years later, the studio was donated to the County Music Hall of Fame and Museum. Today, Studio B is a tourist attraction, as well as a working studio and learning laboratory for students at Belmont University. A video shows some of the greats who recorded at the studio. All the studio equipment is original, including a well-worn piano once played by Elvis and Floyd Cramer. To get into the Christmas spirit for a holiday album that was being recorded in hot summer weather, Elvis had lights strung around the ceiling. They are still there today. Take a look at the back of the simple brick bungalow when you leave. A subtle difference in the bricks is a reminder of Dolly Parton. The story goes that she was so excited to be recording at the famed studio and so thrilled to be driving a new car that she accidentally ran into the building. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
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fresh roasted peanuts, caramel, marshmallow and milk chocolate. Satisfying sweet tooths since 1912, the Goo Goo is still made right in Nashville at the Standard Candy Company,
SCHERMERHORN SYMPHONY CENTER
No wonder when I returned to my Opryland room that night, I kept hearing Elvis singing in my ear. Then I awoke the next morning to the sound of Vince Gill. Instead of a standard wake-up call, the Opryland uses recorded voices of country singers to awaken guests with a cheery good morning call.
From country music to classical, I headed to Nashville's new musical masterpiece - the Schermerhorn Symphony Center. Opened in 2006, the 1,844-seat center is home to the Nashville Symphony Orchestra as well as a venue for other music and events. Taking up a whole city block in downtown Nashville, the Schermerhorn design was inspired by some of the world's great concert halls. Besides the excellent acoustics, one design aspect I really enjoyed was the 30
RYMAN AUDITORIUM First up on my agenda this sunny Nashville morning was to visit the hallowed halls of the historic Ryman Auditorium, regarded as the "Mother Church of Country Music." A National Historic Landmark, the Ryman was home of the Grand Ole Opry from 1943 to 1974. One of the city's most popular concert venues, the Ryman is renowned for its exceptional acoustics and has hosted musicians from all genres. The Ryman also has exhibits and information on the history of the building and country music, including memorabilia and photographs of such Opry stars as Kitty Wells, Hank Snow and Ernest Tubb. Life size bronze statues of Minnie Pearl and Roy Acuff greet visitors in the lobby. For some great recordings and T-shirts, I wandered through the gift shop and left with a nice shopping bag filled with music to enjoy at home. Many Nashville gift shops also carry a southern delicacy known as the Goo Goo candy bar. Said to be the first combination candy bar, the Goo Goo is a gooey recipe of
Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
soundproof windows above the hall. The windows make the Schermerhorn one of the only major concert halls in North America with natural light. It is such a pleasure to sit in one of the comfortable concert seats and hear the talented symphony with soft twilight spreading over the hall.
HONKY TONK ROW After a leisurely dinner at the top-notch Capitol Grille at the historic Hermitage Hotel, I was ready for an evening at Nashville's world famous honky tonks. First, a few words to savor that dining experience at the Capitol Grille. It is pure luxury - think truffles, foie gras, caviar and lobster. The emphasis is on creative Southern cuisine. Chef Tyler Brown uses the freshest and best available local products in what was once a private men's club. The sweet onion bisque with chives, bacon and a brie sandwich covered with the creamy soup was almost a meal in itself. The grilled Tennessee Black Angus beef tenderloin was served with roasted potatoes and carrots but I also got a taste of a friend's truffled macaroni and cheese.
Sure not like the mac and cheese I make from a box at home. Nashville has a treasure of restaurants and I tried several on my visit - Fish & Co. with its tasty seafood menu, Savarino Cucina for homemade breads, pastas and pastries, Jack's Bar-B-Que for authentic hickory-flavored barbecue, the hip Merchants with scrumptious beef short ribs, Cabana for unforgettable Tennessee sliders (mini sweet potato biscuits with Smoky Mountain country ham), and so many more delightful dining spots. Fortified for a wonderful evening of music, I walked to some of the legendary downtown honky tonks, including Tootsie's Orchid Lounge, Robert's Western Wear and Legends Corner to see where country music legends got their start. You can't miss Tootsie's. It's the pale purple club where songwriters like Kris Kristofferson and Willie Nelson gathered to drink and write. Much of the lounge's history is reflected in the photos on the walls. There isn't a cover charge for Tootsie's live entertainment day and night. Take a peek out the back door. An alley leads to the side door of the Ryman Auditorium. Many stars have been known to come out that Ryman door and into Tootsie's for some southern comfort before and after they played the Ryman. To answer my question, it is easy to see why Nashville is known as Music City. I'm sure my father would feel right at home if he could see the city today and hear the talents of long ago legends as well as the stars of tomorrow. For more info on Nashville. Tennessee: Visit Nashville Tourism at www.visitmusiccity.com
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South Africa Wild, free and full of style By Michael Morcos
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y excursion to the scenic country of South Africa will not soon be forgotten. From the elegant game lodges and buzzing city streets to breathtaking mountain views and cascading waterfalls, there was an endless feast for the eyes everyday of the trip.
South Africa is cultural melting pot, boasting a vibrant people that offer guests a warm and fun atmosphere. While mingling with the locals can be a treat, I say the real highlight is the unbelievable landscapes found throughout the area, especially along the rugged coastline and the inland sweeping plains.
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Johannesburg will be missed While my travels this time did not bring me to experience Johannesburg, a trip to this bustling metropolis should be squeezed into your South African itinerary if you can. We flew into the city and experienced a wonderfully pleasant plane, despite the 15-hour flight. South African Airways took great care and every leg of the journey was on time to boot. Next trip, I plan on spending some time here, as it offers a look into the country's rich history and ongoing cultural expression. Many travellers choose to visit neighborhood and boroughs like Soweto, which tell a living story about the issues of segregation in South Africa. Alongside the beautiful churches, plazas, cemeteries and historical landmarks, visitors to this city can head to the Apartheid Museum, to get an overview of the impact the apartheid made on people nationwide. However, this time around, we headed straight for the Bushmans Kloof wilderness reserve and wellness retreat for a few days of immersing in the wilds of this colourful destination.
A walk on the wild wide at Bushmans Kloof I loved the sprawling, private estate of Bushmans Kloof, which was a perfect introduction to South Africa's scenic beauty. Located a couple hours from Cape Town, the complex was a sanctuary of opulent decor in the individual cottages and lodge, delicious culinary delights and a top-notch staff. I couldn't get enough of the plethora of activities either, such as a guided tour of the cave paintings, elegant afternoon teas and the opportunity for a
classic gin-and-tonic sundowner in the bush.
Endless possibilities on the savannah We journeyed onto the grounds and participated in one of Bushmans Kloof memorable game drives. Herds of the Cape Mountain zebra roam free here, as well as bouncing ostriches, graceful bontebok and chattering baboons, all seen from the back of a comfortable four-wheeled vehicle.
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South Africa Continued from page 19
Cape Town: urban sights and natural wonders After the wilderness reserve, I made my way back to Cape Town to check-in at the Pepper Club Hotel and was delighted to discover its great location. It also gave me easy access to check out the city and its array of cafes, historic points of interest and boutiques. This really heated up after the sun went down in Cape Town, as it provides locals and guests with countless venues to enjoy live music and a cold drink.
Time to check out the scenery of the peninsula Cape Town in itself is a wildlife destination, harmoniously allowing wildlife and vegetation to thrive only a short distance from the populated areas on the coast and downtown. To get an overall panoramic view of the area, I took a cable car up Table Mountain and peered below to see the beaches, hills and tiny homes dotting the shoreline. The drives I enjoyed on the windy roads were also a thrill, as they quickly allowed me to take in the sights, sounds and even smells of nature. On this trip I happened upon a penguin colony and other animals at the Cape of Good Hope Park, where you can visit the southernmost tip of Africa too. Oh, and the wine. Vineyards throughout South Africa are full of tasty libations and welcome guests to sample some of their signature varieties. I visited both the Boschendal and Tokara wineries to peruse the estate grounds, admire the views of mountainous peak and, of course, sample some wines. Some of the grape types used in this region include Shiraz, Chardonnay, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc.
Tour of Robben Island A visit to Robben Island may be a somber event, but should not be skipped on a trip to South Africa. This place is seen by taking a boat ride from the coast of Cape Town. The island has a closed prison, which once was the site where Nelson Mandela, South Africa's leading civil rights support, was held captive for nearly three decades. These days, former inmates give a knowledgeable tour of the grounds that have now been honoured as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I even spotted a penguin or two, as the island is home to various birds and marine life as well, like the Heaviside dolphin. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
Augrabies Falls National Park The dry season did not stop me from witnessing some amazing landscapes at this park. I took a quick flight from the city to Upington and was settled at Dundi Lodge in no time. From there a tour through the national park to see the giant cascades and curious animals of the reserve.
Kimberly, the diamond capital of the world Another short plane ride brought me to Kimberley, where I stayed at the Protea Hotel and enjoyed a tour of the old diamond mine and museum nearby. I really had a great afternoon tea at the Kimberley Club, where I learned more about the area's colonial history established by past British royalty.
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South Africa Continued from page 21
Walking on the wild side in Kruger National Park The final small flight of the trip had me arrive at Chitwa private lodge, inside Kruger National Park. This is one of the best places in the world to catch a glimpse of the "Big Five" game in South Africa, which are the African rhino, Cape buffalo, elephant, leopard and lion. I was certainly not disappointed on my own safari excursion, as I managed to see all of these impressive beasts within a short distance of each other. There is nothing quite like seeing these animals up close and in a habitat that suits their wild needs and gives them plenty of space to roam. I felt as if I was part of the scenery, since my private lodge had perfect views of the watering hole that drew the animals practically to my front door. The atmosphere of my accommodations emulated the feels of safari, with canopy beds and wooden accents. Not to mention, the staff were unrivalled and the cuisine close to perfect, sourcing many local and fresh ingredients for their delectable dishes. We also got the chance to see a local school close to the lodge to learn about the conservation efforts being made at the park to benefit the surrounding community. I loved playing with the kids and meeting a few residents in the village who seemed pleased to welcome us into their daily routine.
Can't wait to return to the "Rainbow Nation" It's virtually impossible to see and do everything there is to experience in South Africa on one journey. Before the plane even left the runway in Johannesburg, I was already dreaming about my future trek to the Rainbow Nation, nicknamed by Nelson Mandela for it's commitment to diversity and welcoming ambiance for all guests to indulge.
For More Info on South Africa: South Africa Tourism Tel: 1-800-593-1318 www.southafrica.net
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Panama
The perfect all in one destination
Panama City and all it's flashy, classy glory The vibrations of passion and expression never seem to cease in Panama City. As soon as I arrived the looming and futuristics high rises caught my eye, giving off a modern and progressive feel that this metropolis is looking to be noticed. Mimicking the sights and sounds of Miami, this destination pulses with Latin beats and a rich cultural history I experienced in the city center and throughout the region.
25 Panama's urban history
Visiting the Embera community I explored the city, taking in my pleasantly busy surroundings before heading off to spend some time with the Embera community. This small tribe is only one of two left in the country and the group lives only a short distance outside Panama City. Visiting the residents of this small villages was one of the best parts of the trip, as it allowed me to fully immerse into the fascinating Panamanian way of life.
Back in town, I was able to take a great tour that pointed out some of the notable historic and aesthetically pleasing sights in Panama City. One of the oldest districts that visitors should not miss is Casco Antiguo. I loved the pastel hues of the resident homes that lines narrow, cobblestone streets. In the past, this district was alive with Spanish traders who used to transport gold from neighboring South American countries, along the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.
Panama City's Trump Ocean Club Upon arrival, I stayed at the Trump Ocean Club, the first of its kind outside of North America. It boasts beautiful views of the waterfront and closely resembles the iconic Dubai landmark hotel, with a silhouette like a giant sail. Alongside the shining new hotel, there are many other projects being completed to better cater to Panama City's business and leisure travelers. These giant buildings are up to 60 stories high and are changing the skyline at a rapid pace.
The golden Iglesia San Jose
Traditional garb for this tribe is very colorful and incorporated various patterns into daily wear. Adornments are also common, especially for the chief and leaders of the community. I was honored to witness a special ceremony presented by various Embera members that had dancing and singing in their native tongue.
In homage to this part Spanish of history in the Casco Antiguo neighborhood, the Iglesia San Jose has several parts of its interior, including a large altar piece, created from solid gold. Legend has it that the infamous Captain Morgan did not pillage the expensive installation, because church members cleverly painted it black to hide its value.
Lunch with the Embera tribe Five-star restaurants can be a thrill to indulge, but there may be nothing like a fresh and locally sourced meal boasting simple and delicious ingredients. I had a wonderful meal of just-caught fish, broiled potatoes, cantaloupe and pineapple while with the community members.
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Panama Continued from page 25
Gamboa's ecological exhibitions I spent a good part of my time at Gamboa exploring the dense jungle surroundings through tours organized by the resort. One great way to get an overall experience of the diverse environment is by boat ride in Gatun Lake or on a guided bird watching tour. The waterway was great to visit, as monkeys would come right to the boat and let us feed them treats. We were also able to spy a rainbow of birds squawking and flying high as we glided along the lake.
Soberania not only had plenty of jungle to see, but it stretches between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and has great coastlines too.
The Panama Canal and Miraflores locks One of the most famous parts of Panama is the majestic canal. I was lucky to take a tour of this massive waterway and learn about the lock system that keeps it flowing regularly for nautical traffic. It is not cheap to use the canal as a passage for commercial use, the minimum fee to glide through the locks is $350,000. Part of the reason there is such a high charge is that the ecosystem needs to keep well-preserved, as freshwater is released in large quantities every time a ship goes through the canal. On my tour, I learned that this waterway was originally started by the French, but was later finished by Americans as an options for travel by the military.
The busiest mall in Panama
Aerial Tram tour My favorite way to see the jungle was indulging in a spectacular bird's eye view. I took a tram ride up a nearby hill and was rewarded with a memorable 360degree view of the canal and lush vegetation of the tropical rain forest. Most of the land is protected for its beauty and ecological benefits, so the panoramic vistas were especially impressive of this exotic and alluring landscape.
As much as I was enjoying all the adventures in the country's wildlife reserves, I also spent some time doing other travel activities, such as shopping. The Multiplaza Mall is the country's second biggest and arguably the most crowded, since it offers a little bit of everything. From cosmetics and high-end fashion to electronics and watches, those looking to pick up some souvenirs on their trip will want to take advantage of Panama's dutyfree shopping.
Conga festival in Portobelo Relaxing at the Gamboa Resort After a tasty lunch at the Miraflores restaurant overlooking the canal, I checked in at the stylish Gamboa Resort. This comfortable wildlife sanctuary doubles as top-notch accommodations, boasting views from the balconies and plush decor, complete with hammocks to help you relax and unwind. Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
Monkey Island and Soberania Park Things got even wilder as I made my way to tours of Monkey Island and Soberania Park. Both areas were full of wildlife and truly captured the essence of Panama's effort in eco-conservation.
The next leg of my journey brought me to the city of Colon, known for being a sunny waterside retreat used by both locals and foreign visitors. As soon as I arrived, I headed outside the city center to a small village called Portobelo. Here, I was fortunate enough to happen upon a lively celebration of conga dancing, the first of its kind in town. Along the historical streets and elegant landmarks, people young and old gathered to move and shake to some infectious Latin rhythms.
A meal at El Otro Lado
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My time at the El Otro Lado restaurant included some fresh and savory dishes that encompassed many locally sourced ingredients from the rain forest and oceans. Guests can sample clams and shrimp while sipping a homemade beverage infused with citrus and mint.
The Pacific beaches of Panama
Cristo Negro Church and San Geronimo Fort I was especially taken with the Cristo Negro Church, which has a unique statue of Jesus who looks of African descent, dating back more than three centuries. The San Geronimo Fort also has a deep history as well, as the large stoned structure has kept the city safe from pirates since the early 1500s. The gorgeous views of palm trees and the harbor were well worth the visit, and I found out why Portobelo's name means "beautiful fort" in Italian.
All my adventures did not leave a lot of room for lazing on the beach, but towards the end of my trip I did get a chance to admire the Buenaventura beach community, about two hours outside Panama City. This area is another world of affluent residents and holidaymakers who have modern, stylish million-dollar homes right by the shorelines. There are great accommodations as well, such as the Buenaventura Hotel where I had a great lunch overlooking the sandy beaches. Seeing this luxurious spot was the ideal conclusion to my visit, as it gave me a look into the country's progressive future and how it would continue to thrive.
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Whistler a four-season delight By By Michael Michael McCarthy McCarthy
R
esort best known for skiing has other attractions too
Snowflakes fell like tiny wounded birds out of a pale blue sky, hissing as they kissed the steaming waters of the outdoor pool. Mist rose and drifted off into the woods. A warm fire crackled in a nearby grate, constantly tended by eager staff. The door to the Finnish sauna opened with a blast of hot air and a bather emerged to tiptoe through the snow bank and plunge into an icy cold pool. Ah, after a hard day's play in the Whistler hills there's nothing better than a relaxing sojourn in a European-style spa.
WHISTLER A TRUE FOUR SEASON RESORT The concept for our trip to Whistler, the world's largest four-season resort, was fairly simple. Go to Whistler for a relaxing, romantic vacation and don't downhill ski at all. Everyone goes to Whistler to ski and there is a reason for that. The Whistler/Blackcomb region has more ski runs than any other resort on the world. But what if you don't ski very well and just want to enjoy the snow and ambience? What about summer as well? It's great to know there are lots of wonderful non-ski alternatives to be found at Whistler if you just know where to look.
Whistler is an easy two-hour cruise from Vancouver up the dazzling Sea-toSky Highway, formally a death-defying perambulation along steep cliffs with black ice turning the roads into Russian roulette and the ocean looming far below. But in advance of the 2010 Winter Olympic Games the B.C. government poured $600 million into widening the highway and building safety structures to stop large rocks from falling on top of people's cars. The money was worth it. In summer Whistler is just as nice now to visit as winter, with golf, tennis, hiking, ziplining, cycling, canoeing, river rafting - and yes, summer skiing on the glaciers. And in summer you can take the Rocky Mountaineer instead, certainly one of the world's most scenic train rides.
SNOW SHOEING IN THE FOREST We started our vacation by getting some healthy exercise at Cross Country Connection's outfitter's hut near Lost Lake, found just outside the town centre and an easy walk from our hotel. They'll rent you cross-country skis if you want, but we opted for strapping on snowshoes and ambling off for an easy walk in the woods. It appears the hardest aspect of snowshoeing is putting on the equipment; traipsing through the trees following a well-marked path proved no bother at all.
Hardy cross-country skiers swooshed by on nearby groomed trails, but the only sounds heard underneath the snow-laden pines on the many snowshoe trails were the occasional tweet of a jay and the burble of a tiny creek. The red trail turned out to an easy 2.8 kilometres wander to the lake and back, a lazy hour lost in a pristine winter wonderland.
BASKING IN A EUROPEAN SPA Those in the know (and carrying a good map, found at the Info Centre in the heart of the village) can arrange to emerge from the woods outside Le Scandinave, 20,000-square feet of Scandinavian baths artfully concealed in the forest, "hydrotherapy in the heart of nature" as their brochure calls it. First you heat the body for 2-3 minutes in the Eucalyptus steam bath to the point of boiling, then you plunge into the Nordic waterfall outside the door for a few seconds "to close the pores and strengthen the immune system." Then it's a long wallow in the outdoor heated pools.
That is what their guidelines say to do, but I found it quite possible to bypass the outdoor Nordic waterfall or cold pools entirely; just walking around in a wet bathing suit in below freezing temperatures work wonders in lowering body heat in a jiffy. You are supposed to alternate between the hot and cold baths and repeat as often as necessary, but I didn't find the cold baths alluring at all. Finally, for those so enamoured, there are deep tissue, Swedish, hot stone or Thai-yoga massages available for skiers or nonskiers alike. Bring a good book too, and plan to spend several hours enjoying all the many options.
29 bistro. That would be the Bearfoot Bistro, of course, what might be the finest cuisine in all of Whistler, where fine French food is matched only by the exquisite ambience and polished service. Those so inclined can learn the art of "sabre cutting" in the Bearfoot's million dollar basement wine cellar, whacking open one's bottle of champagne with a quick flick of a sword under the maitre d's expert instruction. It's really quite easy, and as an added bonus you get to drink the champagne! The Bearfoot's five-course tasting menu with matching wines was to die for. One starts with an amuse bouche of butternut squash role with bacon vinaigrette and crispy squash, prepared under the watchful eye of master chef Melissa Craig in the open kitchen. Each course in the tasting menu is matched with an appropriate wine. Why, the Martin Lane Reisling brought the Yellowfin tuna alive, darling! Thinly sliced black Perigord truffle adorned the bucatini pasta with champagne cream, artfully paired with a Meyer Family Chardonnay. The entrÊe of baconwrapped striploin with braised shortrib ravioli led nicely into a dessert of pear mousse cider jelly and goat cheese sorbet, washed down with ice-cold apple cider from Quebec. Ah yes, the life of royalty‌. Soft jazz on the piano wafted through the room like French perfume, luring us on towards the "blue room" where ice cold vodka can be sampled at an ice bar in an ice room cooled to minus 28 centigrade, apparently one of only three such ice bars in the world and - according to the Bistro staff - the coldest. Here dozens of different vodkas from around the world can be sipped while warmly wrapped in a deep down parka with matching fur hat and gloves.
ROMANCE AT THE BISTRO Refreshed and relaxed and purring like kittens, my wife and I ambled slowly up the Village Stroll towards the ultimate in Whistler romance, an evening at the Canadian World Traveller Summer 2012
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CHATEAU WHISTLER THE PLACE TO STAY No romantic vacation in Whistler is complete without a majestic view of the village from above, best accomplished from a suite high atop the magnificent Fairmont Chateau. Here was the chance to finish off that mystery novel started earlier at Le Scandinave spa. Then, next morning, why not a leisurely dip in the hotel's own heated indoor/outdoor pool? This vantage point allows you to observe all the downhill skiers frantically scurrying by to get to the lifts when they could be simply relaxing over a hot pot of tea and a comfort breakfast of eggs Benedict in the warmth of the hotel's swank dining room.
However, those not familiar with Whistler and determined to get in some serious downhill skiing will discover to their amazement that you could ski a different run very day of the year on the twin mountains of Whistler and accompanying Blackcomb Mountain and never experience the same run twice. Then there are also the backcountry glaciers, open much of the summer for the truly dedicated skier. Finally, those who have just won the lottery or inherited the family fortune can rent a helicopter and ski on the backcountry glaciers surrounding the valley.
live the life of a king or queen and never ski at all. But remember, if you do hit the slopes, those double diamond warning signs at the top of many runs mean exactly what they say: Experts Only. Good thing there are all those beginner and intermediate trails for the rest of us.
PEAK TO PEAK RIDE A GREAT VIEW
Photo credits: Michael McCarthy except for Fairmont Hotel (supplied) and Peak to Peak (Matt Walker)
Then there is the final crowning touch of your visit, a an eye-opening ride on the Peak-to-Peak gondola that hangs like a diamond necklace high between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains. The 4.4-kilometre ride departs every 49 seconds and takes just 11 minutes to cross, dangling 1,427 feet in the air with Fitzsimmons Creek far below, where you will enjoy views of the entire Whistler valley to the west and the glaciers to the east.
Le Scandinave Spa www.scandinave.com Bearfoot Bistro
www.bearfootbistro.com
Chateau Fairmont Hotel www.fairmont.com/whistler
So, yes, you could go to Whistler and
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