C
A
N
A
D
I
A
N
W O R L D
Traveller Fall 2012
In This Issue
Marquesas China chile Israel Colorado Germany
A word from the editors elcome to the Fall 2012 Issue of Canadian World Traveller, which is being distributed across Greater Montreal, as well as in select locations in the Greater Toronto Area.
W
The magazine is now in the ninth year of its publication. This issue, as well as all of our previous 36 issues, are archived on our website at www.canadianworldtraveller.com. In addition, an electronic version of Canadian World Traveller is distributed by email to over 9,500 travel specialists across Canada.
Published by
Canadian World Traveller
In this issue we travel to the end of the world to discover the Marquesas Islands on board the Aranui 3, then continue our journey in part two of the mighty Yangtze river in China. Next, we head south again to visit Chile before we visit Israel to walk in the steps of the Messiah. We also invite you to discover postcard perfect Colorado before setting sail once again to the lake districts of Germany.
Publisher Editor-in-chief Graphic Artist Advertising Marketing Distribution Ecotourism Contributors
Michael Morcos Greg James Al Cheong Leo Santini Tania Tassone Royce Dillon Dave Taylor Tom Koppel Habeeb Salloum David J. Cox Tania Tassone
Enjoy your Great Fall Travels! Table of Contents
Please help preserve the forests of our beautiful planet by recycling this magazine after reading it or better still share it with others.
4055, Ste-Catherine Street West, Suite 158 Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8 Tel.: (514) 667-2293 www.canadianworldtraveller.com Email: info@canadianworldtraveller.com
Page
Marquesas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Chile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Israel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Colorado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Germany . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Front Cover Photo: Yangtze, China Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.
W
hy spend days recovering when you can take this homeo-pathic remedy during the flight and feel fresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time.
www.nojetlag.com
NO-JET-LAG
TM
Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311 Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : gaelft@nojetlag.com
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
4
The Marquesas Paradise at the End of the World By Michael Morcos
With the connectivity of the internet and instantaneous communication, the world doesn't often seem like such a big place. However if you venture out to the Marquesas Islands, part of the French Polynesia, you may feel as if you've stepped back in time and into a whole other world. Many venture straight for Tahiti when in this area of the world which is fascinating and beautiful in it's own right. But if you want to really immerse yourself in the true spirit of these beautiful islands, it can be well worth your time to check out some of the smaller islands chains that are less inhabited or commercialized but just as amazing to encounter. I spent a large portion of the trip island hopping around the Marquesas and stepping onto the shores of small areas of land with big personalities. Each locale welcomed us with open arms as we visited their villages, sampled the exotic cuisine and swam in the crystal clean ocean.
Beginning and ending the trip in Tahiti Most fly into the capital of French Polynesia before heading out to the neighboring islands. Popularized by imagines in the media of swaying dancers, palm trees and perfect beaches, Tahiti has been enjoying an influx of travelers in recent years, while still retaining its rustic allure. The first amazing sight I witnessed was the natural beauty encompassing this region. We went on hikes and excursions through the forests, happening upon massive and majestic waterfalls, plus plenty of wildlife. The Bako National Park is wonderful place to start understand the magic surrounding this island, as it provides guests with dazzling shorelines, tropical foliage and limestone formations. You probably will spot a monkey or two as well swinging through the trees. Another fun experience was eating out in Tahiti. A common practice for locals and
5
visitors alike is to pull up a chair and table at one of the roulottes, which are the Polynesian version of a food truck. Before they ever became trendy in North America, Tahitian were serving up delicious dishes streetside to the masses looking for a taste of tradition and modern flavors. Fish like Mahi Mahi is often incorporated into the meals, as well as various French cheeses, French fries and crepes. Chefs also offer different genres of food, hailing from China, Australia and even America. After dining I wandered the streets and found some live music playing to the delight of dinner goers.
An interesting voyage with the Aranui 3 Unlike regular cruise ships, the Aranui brings both passengers and cargo through the Marquesas Islands. This allows guests to have a comfortable trip by "cruising," while the necessary supplies are also provided to residents on a normal basis. The ship hold about 200 passengers and offers great cabin space similar to other lines in Europe, North America or Asia. Guests can indulge in fun activities, such as a lazy afternoon by the pool or sunbathing on the spacious deck area. During the journey, we made stops are more than one dozen islands, sometimes doubling back and visiting an area twice for a second glimpse. This was a wonderful (albeit the only) way to see most of the island sin this chain comfortably and in style.
First adventure to Fakarava We left the ship for a few hours to see the island of Fakarava, which is known for pearl farming alongside some of the other close by land masses. Fakarava, and also Rangoria, are two islands we visited part of the Society group while sailing over to the Marquesas. All of these places lie a couple hundreds miles away from Tahiti and are as remote as you can get when it comes to tropical travel.
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
6
The Marquesas
Hiking in Ua Pou
Continued from page 5
A great way to get a feel of the lay of the land is my hiking through these islands. On both Hakahau and Hakahetau we did small yet brisk walks to the best viewpoints around, showing us how the ocean simply stretches out endlessly around these green islands. I also saw the iconic mountain spires created by unique volcanic activity hundreds of years ago that jut out of the ground.
The Huku Niva group These islands, which have a picturesque bay formed by past volcanic activity, are wonderful to explore. Some travelers took trials to the Anaho saddle in Hatiheu or spend the afternoon swimming at the beach. After a day of adventure, I loved walking the deck back on the boat to see the star illuminate the sky, unlike any other place on the planet.
Exploring Atuona and Vaitahu Fans of fine art and music make pilgrimages to the Hiva Oa island group. I was able to see the graves of painter Paul Gauguin and songwriter Jacques Brel, which pay homage to these men's' lives as well as the spirit of escape and freedom in French Polynesia. Both were extremely talented in their trade and although were not natives to the islands, they would visit and spoke highly of their calming and beautiful environment. Near the grave sites are cultural centers that explain more about their contributions to this destination.
Learning from the locals in Fatuiva Here is where I was able to see the skills of the residents who call these islands home. Guests were given a demonstration on how to create several items used everyday in Fatuiva, such as Tapa, or bark cloth, and umu hei, or bouquets of flowers. Next, we visited the local school and were delighted with a live presentation performed by the students. They dress in customary costumes are learn moves that honor the Polynesian style of dance. I also was able to pick up a few souvenirs of the
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
crafts we saw made in the village. Purchasing local, handmade goods is a usual practice on most of the islands we saw.
History and culture in Hiva Oa Outside settlers certainly made their mark on French Polynesia in history, but there is also a wealth of rich traditions and stories among the locals. On Puamau, we headed to the archeological site that held a megalithic Tiki, as well as a tomb for the last great ruler and chief of the island. There also some eerie and eye-catching ruins to see in the jungle as we were led by our seasoned guides through the dense forests.
Faith in the Marquesas on Vaitahu Missionaries brought Christian traditions and faith to the marquesas, which still resonates today inside their magnificent churches. Vaitahu has a Catholic place of worship made from stone and wood, framed by amazing stained glass windows and statues. It was sanctioned by the Vatican in the 1800s and remains a meeting place for locals to pray and keep their community strong.
Swimming and sunning in Ua Huka Enjoying all the nature, culture, history and mystery of French Polynesia was incredible, but I have just as much fun relaxing on the islands of Vaipee, Hane and Hokatu as well. Some opted to try a horseback riding excursion along trails in the forest and beach, while other swam and snorkeled near the bay. There is a wild horse population that was introduced to the land by Chileans more than 150 years ago. The handsome creatures have thrived and now outnumber the human residents.
Villages in Taiohae and Hakahau Locals living out their day-to-day lives on these islands made for a relaxing and fun atmosphere to check out the scenery. Many people sport tribal tattoos and big
7
smiles, both of which complement their historical traditions and laid-back attitude. Everyone I connected with and encountered with extremely friendly, helpful and willing to share about their love of the islands.
Admiring the marine life in Rangiroa Rangiora was one of our last stops and is part of the Society Islands chain near Marquesas. We had the option of taking a glass-bottom boat tour, or checking out the scenic beach. The island has the largest atoll in the world, which is a massive ring of coral that has a lagoon inside. This is perfect for those who want to see colorful sea animals up close by snorkeling or scuba. No matter what your level of diving expertise, you can learn or practice your skills in these oceans, as the temperature is ideal and clarity of the water is superb.
Among the fish, sea plants and mammals are oysters that are harvested by experts who are in search of black pearls. The harvested precious stones are sold on Rangiroa and all over the world, as it is the main economic resource in the region. The pearls are lovely in all types of jewelry, some of which is made right on the island. I got the chance to visit the Gauguin pearl farm to see these experts at work. They will insert the beginning of a pearl without harming the oyster and let nature do the rest, producing a beautifully shiny black, yellow, green, pink, blue or gold piece.
Off into the sunset on the Aranui At the end of each day, I was rewarded with amazing views from the deck of the Aranui, or inside of of the great lounges.
Of course the off-boat excursions were the highlights of the day, nothing beat returning to my cabin or spending some time socializing at the bar, going to the ship's gym or simply reading a book on the deck. I could not be more pleased with my experience aboard the cruise liner that doubles as a cargo ship - they have seemed to perfect the art of luxury paired with functionality. With all the travels I've made over the years, this one will certainly stick out in my mind. It's rare for people to feel so off the grid anymore, and I cherished the time I had exploring the islands and understanding the simple pleasures in life, whether it be seeing a Polynesian dance show at a local school or sipping a cocktail by the emerald green ocean.
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
12 8
China the mighty Yangtze By Michael Morcos
Adventure and exploration on the Yangtze River in China: Part Two This leg of the trip was thrilling as we cut through the tranquil waters of the Yangtze. I stayed aboard the M.S. Yangtze 2, which is unbelievably luxurious and less than one year old. Besides giving you the chance to get up close with stunning scenery, this vessel is equipped with everything to make a stay comfortable and relaxing, including a movie theater, large deck space and on-board spa. You can feel the energy of Chinese tradition flow by taking a tai chi class or curling up with a language phrase book in one of the hammocks. Cabins are spacious and adorned with charming decor, but I spent a lot of my time enjoying the various activities and entertainment, including the tasty restaurants and nightly karaoke. I truly sailed in style down the waterway and was surprised with new sites to see around every river bend. My cruise was a three-day excursion, but many choose to extend their trip and see more of the river in one or two week increments. From the interior of the river to the popular destination of Shanghai, it takes about nine days by boat to make the journey.
Side trip down the Shennong Stream While we did spend the majority of the time on the main waterway, we did take a detour on the Shennong Stream. Cliffs surround the waterway that is narrow in many areas, so small wooden boats have to navigate around each other carefully. This part of the tour can sometimes be chaotic and full of tourists, but that makes it fun in a campy way. Plus, the scenic views of the Chinese landscapes is well worth the trip.
White Emperor City A stop at the White Emperor City on the Yangtze River awarded us with some more exquisite temples pavilions and plazas. Entering the main temple brings me past some almost scary dragon figures that guard the entrance and looks as if they could almost come to life. The complex was originally built for the White Emperor, also known as Gong Sunshu, but the honor frequently switched throughout the Ming dynasty to honor other leaders such as Liu Bei and Zhang Fei. Those visiting who want to learn more about the temple's historical timeline can head to the various museums and exhibits hosted
inside the structure that tell the stories of the city's royalty.
9
Fengdu Ghost City Legend and lore surround the famous "Ghost City," as it is known by many Chinese residents. Different kinds of faith and their traditions blend together to create an intricate and fascinating region, combining ideas from Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. Brave tourists will take one of the guided spirit tours and learn more about how this city got its eerie nickname. However, its interesting enough to simply stroll through the temple spaces and admire the architecture that is prevalent in this part of China. Chinese people are often connected deeply with their faith in various forms, and some will even come to places like Ghost City to connect with their ancestors or find answer in their spiritual life.
Checking out the Dazu stone carvings I cannot imagine having the patience and artistic ability to create something beautiful from blocks of stone. But the artists who have made giant figures out of rocks have perfected this unique art form and collective have made more than 50,000 statues and roughly 100,000 Chinese characters for secular and spiritual display. Most represent Buddhist figures and are located around the temples. Since the whole project has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is a busy and lively place to visit, rain or shine.
Fresh food at the Dazu Lotus Garden Viewing the handiwork of ancient and talented artists had me work up an appetite. Luckily a lunch at the Dazu Lotus Garden was scheduled, and it certainly satisfied my palate. Many of the spiced, savory dishes include just-picked flowers as edible garnishes. Of course the cuisine is the main highlight, but walking through the amazing gardens and adjacent farmlands was also incredible, along with the elegant, private eating rooms that added to the natural ambiance.
Seeing the Wulong show I couldn't get enough of all the exciting shows presented in each city, and the Wulong show at the Furong Dong caves was no exception. During this lavish demonstration, more than 100 performers take to the outdoor stage and are accompanied my bold theatrics, sound technology and lighting. Guests peer through the Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
10
china Continued from page 9
caves to watch the show, which focuses on stories and tall tales surrounding the region and its people. It can be wonderful to see a concert indoors, but there can be something special about watching skilled artists show off their capabilities in a breathtaking, natural setting.
Experiencing Fairy Mountain Some people who venture to Fairy Mountain may think they have stepped onto a movie set, as a few kung fu and ninja-style movies have been filmed inside these wild landscapes. Giant cliffs form large peaks, some of which are connected by natural bridges of stone and rock. At the bottom of the valley, underneath the bridges, is a historical set of buildings. I felt as if I was in a cave-like area while beneath the bridges, but form above the formations look like big holes in the ground, covered by foliage. In fact, everything is seemingly under a blanket of trees, shrubs and wild ferns, giving it a rugged and almost untouched look that is a titillating to explore.
Ciqikou ancient part of the Chongqing also draws many guests for its 1,000 yearold buildings form the Ming dynasty. Other notable landmarks and points of interest in the city include the museum devoted to the Three Gorges, the Liberation Monument and the scenic Nanshan Park. There is also a pulsing nightlife where many locals and tourists alike indulge in dancing, dining and mingling with each other at the various hangouts, restaurants and bars. I could have easily spent an extra week traversing through Chongqing.
Perusing a local market More culinary sagas were to be had as we continued on our trip to the local market. The ship stopped at a fun bazaar that was full of exotic finds and rare delicacies. Although it was difficult to figure out what some the ingredients are, it can be great just gazing into the vendor's containers and guessing what types of mushrooms, herbs, grains and more may be inside. Markets are commonplace is smaller villages, giving many a chance to show off their wares to each other and to passerby looking to sample new eats or take home some unique souvenirs. We then had a large feast of food that was mostly sourced from local businesses and farms. A massive spread was laid out before me and I had a hard time choosing where to start, between the sauteed greens, soups and all the amazing aromas wafting from each plate.
Journeying to Chongqing As sad as I was to wave goodbye to the M.S. Yangtze 2, I was looking forward to visit Chongqing, the final stop on my journey. What is called a city but largely regarded as a province, this area is home to more than 33 million Chinese people and is the largest metropolis nationwide. Many travellers stick to the main parts of the city for temple visits and culinary options. However, a side trip to the Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
I was blown away by the incredible talent and enthusiasm each place in China brought to the table, from a deep understanding of spirituality to just knowing how to have a great time with friends. My passage on the Yangtze River was the quintessential way to experience a large part of what makes this destination so intoxicating.
For More Info on China: China National Tourist Office 480 University Ave, Suite 806 Toronto, ON M5G 1V2 Tel: 416-599-6636 or 1-866-599-6636 Official Websites: www.tourismchinaca.com and www.cnto.org
12
Chile Over 3,000 miles of ocean and mountains By Steven Sanders
Chile's great outdoors attracts the adventurist; the cities challenge the ambitious; its wine region soothes the simplistic; its desert absorbs the purist. In short, Chile attracts, and can certainly attract all. After arriving in Chile's sprawling capital city Santiago, almost in the very centre of the world's longest north to south country, my first task was to decide between desert or ice - a choice very few countries can offer year round. I chose to put these options on hold and first explored the country's charming central valley, taking in South America's most modern city, the country's wine region, and the cosmopolitan coast.
Santiago While many South American cities have long possessed that unique buzz, the feeling in Santiago is different. This is a new buzz which replaces the old. Negativity and pessimism are almost non-existent; instead café culture, live music, and street festivals are taking over. With one of the world's most stable economies, Latin America's most thriving nation is on roll, and Santiago is spearheading the assault. The best place to start in the city is the centre. Many of the locals will argue that this area is chaotic, run down and noisy, and while the latter two points have improved dramatically over past few years, it is being amongst the chaos of el centro that will help you capture the atmosphere of Santiago's working class while exploring the country's past through its many museums and colonial buildings. Dating back to the 1540's, Plaza de Armas is the heartbeat of el centro, and is located at the very centre of Santiago's initial layout. Here you can find one of Santiago's last remaining colonial buildings, the Casa Rosada, which is home to the Museum of Santiago, as well as the nearby Catedral de Santiago and the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. The Plaza is surrounded by inviting cafes, restaurants, and street vendors, and a morning spent exploring this area is recommended before further exploring the city.
13
The View from Above Just a ten minute walk will take you to Barrio Bellavista, one of Santiago's most popular nightlife spots - particularly among expats and travelers. A harmless night-out here will do no harm, however it is the area's daytime activities that attract almost all of Santiago's visitors. Bellavista sits at the foot of Cerro San Cristobal, the city's second highest point. Ascending via the funicular - or ascensor - tourists spend an afternoon or sunset taking in the city's most coveted view, with the looming Andes mountain range providing a breathtaking backdrop. Along with the food and ice cream options at the summit, there is also a cute church with a statue of the Virgin Mary overlooking the city. At the foot of Cerro San Cristobal is the Santiago Metropolitan Zoo, which houses many animals unique to South America, and can be a great place for both adults and kids alike. Venturing away from Santiago's centre, jazz fans should head to Club de Jazz in the barrio of Ñuñoa, while those looking for a bit of retail therapy can browse the numerous malls in the green, tree lined district of Las Condes.
Coastal Art Heading 127 km (79 mi) west by road takes you from mountains to ocean, and crossing over half of the width of spindly Chile. Here along the Central Valley coast waits Valparaíso and Viña del Mar, two contrasting cities set just 8 km (5 mi) apart. I spend my first day exploring Valparaíso's colourful and rugged streets, with an almost constant view of the Pacific Ocean peering around the stacked up buildings and streets at every opportunity. Once the most important port in South America and now declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city known as Valpo is now heavily reliant on tourism, with around 50 cruise ships calling at the city's port during the Chilean summer, as well as being the transport point for Chile's in demand copper, wine, and fish.
Often referred to as Little San Francisco, Valparaíso's colourful street graffiti is simply remarkable, and a whole afternoon can be spent wandering the streets around the old quarter just marvelling at the reality and emotion that screams out from many of the city's walls. Taking one of the now world famous funiculars is a must, so I make sure to take this to Ascensor Artilleria, to capture a memorable view of the city. Valparaíso is also said to be home to Chile's famous Cueca dance, and there are many options throughout the city where one can spend the night learning some new moves.
During the summer months between December and March, the beachfront city of Viña del Mar - known locally as Viña becomes host to many Chileans from the nearby regions, who come to enjoy the sun, sea, and sand, as well as to try their luck at Chile's biggest and oldest casino. I took the advice of a local and rented a bicycle near Reñaca beach, before cycling along the scenic, 12km seaside road of Constanera.
Wine and Empanadas Chile is the world's fifth largest exporter of wine - particularly red - and just over an hour south of Santiago, the dusty yet charming town of Santa Cruz, nestled within the Colchagua Valley, is the perfect place to explore Chile's increasingly popular wine region. We stayed at the Hotel Santa Cruz, which offers a casino and some fine dining, but the real experience is at the city's tiny cafés and restaurants, which offer some of the country's best and most authentic empanadas, as well as the
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
14
Chile Continued from page 13
chance to interact with the locals who describe themselves as 'real Chileans'. If an afternoon sampling Chile's famous wine isn't enough, Santa Cruz also offers horseback riding around the local scenery, and is also home to Chile's largest private museum, the Museo de Colchagua.
est skies in the world. Some of the most important space observatories in the world are located in this region due to the constant clear skies, with many offering tours of their telescopes and facilities. After exploring San Pedro de Atacama's charms, I spent a long morning at the nearby El Tatio Geysers, which is home to the world's third largest geyser field as well as some relaxing, tranquil mud baths.
Beach Hopping 'Here you can take a two week vacation and visit a different beach every day.' This was the sound advice from a local who greeted me at the coastal city of La Serena, in Chile's Small North region, something I later discovered was a common saying in these parts. Chile's second oldest city offers some of the country's best and freshest seafood, and offers a slower pace of life surrounded by remarkable scenery and fresh air. Time spent here should be as the locals do, whom you can engage with at the La Recova Municipal Market whilst bartering over hand-made crafts. La Serena is also a perfect base for the stunning Valle del Elqui, which offers some top trekking with a view.
Desert Country In the far north, San Pedro de Atacama is one of Chile's major tourist hotspots for those who can reach it. Daily flights do operate between Santiago and the nearby city of Calama, and once here you can visit the world's driest desert, the Atacama, before spending the evening in awe watching the night unfold below the clear-
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
While the local communes of Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas will do all they can to accommodate tourists, this is not a region for cities. You can take a bus from Puerto Natales to one of the world's most spectacular hikes at Torres del Paine National Park. The hike is open to all levels, and there are various kinds of accommodation, from camping and refugios to strategically located hostels and hotels. The W trek took five days at a slow pace, and can realistically be done in three, however with so much to see and explore, many take between four to eight days to take everything in.
What you should know Patagonia The sole mention of the word Patagonia to me drew images of colliding glaciers and jagged ice fields surrounded by a fiery volcanic landscape. While my mind did wander a little, I certainly wasn't far off, and the mere site of the region from the cross country flight window was enough to get even the most seasoned outdoor enthusiasts excited. Patagonia will challenge you one minute, and embrace you the next, but no matter what your emotions, it's hard to look past how beautiful this part of the world really is. Turquoise lakes linger, as if frozen in time below the inconsistent yet brilliant snowcapped mountain ranges. On a clear day, Patagonia's wild is simply breathtaking.
Chile is a country of startling contrasts, and your suitcase and daypacks should be prepared for this at all times. During the summer months (December-March), bring mainly light clothing and one set of clothes for a typical winter day. Sunscreen will be needed year round in the northern regions, and while temperatures in the Atacama can soar to 30 degrees Celsius during the summer, a huge drop at night is normal, with below freezing temperatures not uncommon. The same can be said for Torres del Paine, which can also experience big temperature swings during the long days of the summer. Winter clothes and layers are a must for this region at any time of year, however temperatures can warm up suddenly when the skies are clear.
18
Israel Walking in the steps of a Messiah By Michael Morcos
The country of Israel has managed to do something incredible - it has protected it's ancient traditions, religious roots and still found ways to stay progress and fascinating throughout the centuries. While there has been a swirl of conflict among opposing groups within the region, this does not deter from its beauty, significance and ability to attract visitors from across the world. I had an unforgettable experience wandering through the cities, villages and along the waterways to explore a beautiful culture and all around diverse atmosphere.
A cruise through Kfar Cana
19
Moving along in Biblical stories, we headed to Kfar Cana, which is said to be the site where Jesus performed his first miracle, turning water into wine at a wedding. It was interesting to be so close to these very old stories and connect with them in a whole new way. The area is so famously linked to this Bible tale that hotels, restaurants and other attractions are named after the event.
The port of Caesarea Here is where the historical points of interest start to shine. The Crusader City is full of ruins, some of which have been uncovered as early as last year during ongoing excavations. I especially was intrigued by the reconstructed Roman Theater and the aqueduct in the port, used by past civilization for irrigation and entertainment.
The magnificent Mount Tabor Tel Aviv's bustling center I arrived in Israel's main center for commerce, culture and finance. Unlike its historical counterparts, this hub of activity is much more modern and stylish, boasting skyscrapers, popular restaurants, museums and people sporting the latest fashions. It was interesting to be introduced to the country this way, as many picture Israel to be somewhat barren or predominantly covered in ancient ruins and landmarks.
Jaffa by the sea
Along the coast of Tel Aviv is Jaffa, which is said to be the inspiration and location where the Jonah the Whale tale took place. You can see beautiful, panoramic views of the whole city from this area, as well as a busy port full of fisherman, artists quarters and many others making their livelihood.
The church in Nazareth After Caesarea, we ventured into Lower Galilee, said to be the town where a young Jesus of Nazareth grew up and lived. A highlight of this area, however, is not as old as its surroundings. The Basilica of the Annunciation has only built in the late 1960s, but it pays homage to classic designs and traditions in every other way. The mass service held inside was hauntingly beautiful and incorporated many Christian practices, such as singing hymns, breaking bread and connecting with fellow members of the congregation during peacetime.
This site is a picturesque part of the natural landscape of the area, standing as a large, green mound over surrounding valleys. At the summit there is a striking church covered in mosaics and other adornments depicting some biblical stories, including the large gathering of people who followed Deborah the prophetess and Barak.
History surrounding the Sea of Galilee A crash course in ancient history was what I experienced on our trek to the Sea of Galilee. Overlooking the place was the Mount of Beatitudes, which offered stunning views and was also the traditional site said to host the Biblical Sermon on the Mount. When it comes to churches, there Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
20
Israel Continued from page 19
is a wealth in the Sea of Galilee, many of which are tied to Jesus and his teachings that took place throughout the region. For instance, in Tabgha I attended a mass that paid homage to the multiplication of fishes and loaves. At the Church of Primacy, also known as Mesa Christi, I learned that this is said to be where Jesus officially met with his disciples after his resurrection from the dead. Not only was there plenty of man-made places to visit, the environment itself was something to behold. In contrast to much of the other desert regions, this area had vegetation and was full of plants, wildlife and a flourishing people. It was refreshing to stumble upon this type of place after seeing a sea of sand for so long.
Dead Sea wonders Now it was time for my second visit to the Dead Sea. In the past I had experienced this body of water in the country of Jordan and was eager to re-visit the unique spot for swimming and sightseeing. The density of the water is fascinating, as it's a few times higher than regular oceans. This allows for people to float seemingly on top of the surface - a very surreal feeling. This area is also said to be one of the "lowest" in the world at nearly 420 meters below sea level.
Sacred traditions on the Jordan River While it was wonderful to see the historical aspects of traditions, faiths and religions, but once I arrived at the Jordan River I was able to witness these practices in real time. Many people travel from all across the globe to be baptized in these sacred waters by religious leaders sanctioned by their church to perform these rituals. Due to the demand, most of the time the routine is completed with a large group, as everyone is prayed over and dunked into the water during the same ceremony.
The caves of Qumran While on our journey to the Dead Sea, we were able to make several stops to check out some amazing attractions along the way. I learned about ancient Jewish settlers in Qumran, where ruins of a very old Essene civilization have been found, which is a Jewish zealot sect. Some believe that the caves were the locale that protected the Dead Sea Scrolls from being found for such a long time.
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
22
Israel
Memorable Massada
Continued from page 21
We also visited the Massada and its adjoining museum by hopping on a cable car and looking at King Herod's mountaintop fortress, which has now been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The plateau lets visitors see the desert and landscape below, making for an great photo op and way to picture how it may have been for ancient civilizations to live and work in this part of the country.
Jerusalem's Church of the Holy Sepulcher This destination may be one of the most famous areas of Israel for people of many faiths to explore and experience. The streets are full of Christian churches and Jewish temples, while five times a day you can also hear the Muslim call to prayer. As the capital city, it is divided into two parts, the old and new sections that both have a very distinct feel. We first traveled through the new area and were rewarded with breathtaking vistas of the Old part of Jerusalem from atop the Mount of Olives. While at this special location, I also encountered the Garden of Gethsemane. Many Biblical stories revolving around Jesus took place here, including the spot among the olive trees where he prayed and was arrested by the guards hired by Pontius Pilate. Various Catholic organizations and individuals donate funds to preserve this space so people of all faiths can visit and enjoy the historical background of the gardens.
The City of David When we ventures to the old part of town, I was able to see part of the City of David up close. At the Citadel there is a wonderful museum that explains the origins of the Tower of David among other things in the district. In the evening, I saw a spectacular light and sound show hosted by Citadel. Even though were were surrounded by ancient architecture, we also were also to see the current Israeli Parliament building and the new Supreme Court building as well. I entered the Israel Museum and was able to see the Dead Sea Scrolls in person, said to be some of the oldest manuscripts preserved of all time.
Oh little town of Bethlehem Not only was the trip to Bethlehem a step back in time, it also gave me an opportunity to find out more about the difficult conflict of interests among the Palestinians Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
and the Israelis. I went to Bethlehem on my own, as it is on the Palestinian side and requires a doubled checked passport to enter and return, as some people are not permitted to visit. The elegant Church of the Nativity is said to be constructed on the site where baby Jesus laid in a manger and was visited by the Three Wise Men. Now this place of worship is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is said to be one of the oldest continuously used Christian churches on the planet.
Mount Zion The Bible often depicts Mount Zion as a dynamic part of ancient civilization, and seeing it person I could understand why.
Here is where the Last Supper occurred at The Coenaculum, where Jesus had a meal with his disciples before execution. At the Dormition Abbey, Biblical stories say this is the spot where Mary ascended into heaven. Simply strolling through this part of the world is a history lesson in itself, as many buildings, pathways and relics date back hundreds of years and are a part of every life.
The Old City of Jerusalem I spent part of my time in Old Jerusalem as well, perusing the various historical landmarks and getting an in-depth feel for the city. Some of the most notable spots included the reconstructed Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall, said to be Judaism's most sacred site. For a little bit of fun, we walked through the shuk, or Arab market, to get a look at their colorful and exotic wares for sale. Household items, textiles, spices and jewelry are all commonly found at this massive bazaars. The trip overall was a powerful one being immersed in so much ancient history can't help but move people into feeling a strong connection with others of faith. Each step along old stoned streets made me feel a little closer to the past and I loved every minute of the passionate tradition I witnessed among visitors and locals alike.
23
24
Colorado A postcard around every corner
Colorado may be a giant, squareshaped state in the western part of the U.S., but it boasts some of the most striking scenery and an interesting melting pot of locals that hail from every corner of the globe. Western flair meets modern beauty in many of the cities, as fresh art galleries and points of interest pop up on the regular alongside old saloons and ranchthemed clothing stores. Many who've chosen to live at this destination full-time find a great balance between work and play, being able to find jobs and still hit the slopes or hike through the national forests. I had a wonderful time exploring this region and immersing myself into the culture of Colorado.
25
important to look the part. That is why I made a stop at the Rockmount Ranch Wear store, famous for it's western fashion and accessories that are recognized around the world. They offer classic fringed jackets, stately cowboy hats and much more donned by locals and visitors alike.
Art at it's finest So now that I looked the part, I was ready to experience more of what this interesting city had to offer. One of the most memorable stops was the Denver Art Museum, which provides various rotating exhibits featuring some of the best artists around the globe, such as photographer Gary Winogrand and painter Vincent van Gogh. It's well worth spending an afternoon at this mecca of creative art, as it's beauty perfectly complements its scenic backdrop.
Seeing Colorado from the clouds While a little scary, a helicopter ride over the mountainous peaks of this state should not be missed. I knew I was in expert hands, though, as the pilot navigated the sky effortlessly so we could catch some amazing views of the environment below in Colorado Springs. This is where I first laid eyes on the Broadmoor state and couldn't wait to see it up close.
Wildlife at The Broadmoor
The wonders of downtown Denver With such an eclectic group of guests and residents, Denver has made sure that it's stocked with enough different places to discover that suits various tastes. For instance, sports fans have found their paradise - they can catch a ballgame in the summer at the state-of-the-art Coors field, or try out their own athletic ability on the countless ski and board slopes in the winter. On the same track, travelers can connect with Recreational Equipment INC., or REI, while in town to purchase active gear or to partake in some organized outdoor trips, including hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing and kayaking. Other more relaxed attractions to check out in Denver are the live music show in Sculpture Park, a meal at a local diner or a tour of the massive capitol building. When it comes to accommodations, the Brown Palace Hotel is one of the classiest choices around, as well as the ideal spot for tea time or a delicious brunch.
Picking up some western gear A great way to experience Colorado's capital city is by foot. With so many things around every corner, this way you won't miss any of the excitement and sights to see. Before hitting the streets, though, it's
The massive Garden of the Gods As I ventured out of the city and into it's picturesque surroundings, the first point of interest I encountered was the Garden of the Gods. Rising up above the tree line are these giant rock formations that create a beautiful landscape, perfect for hiking, picnicking and even horseback riding. This is also the ideal area to take some some excellent photos of Colorado's natural wonders.
This establishment has a very interesting background. Early investors and builders on the project were thought to be a little nutty for constructing such a large resort in the middle of nowhere at the time. However, this vacation hotspot has experienced much success since the early 20th century and continues to draw in all types of guests, including tennis players, lovers of luxury hotels and gamers. There is also a world-class golf course to play on, while the hotel itself is covered in Italian frescos and elegant decor.
Royal Gorge Bridge and Park After relaxing at the resort, it was time for some more fun. I headed to the Royal Bridge & Park in Canon City. The amusement park spans between both sides of the Gorge, connected by a long bridge and a thrilling skycoaster gondola. This place is perfect for little ones, as it has a petting zoo, wildlife park, mini railroad and plenty of rides. Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
26
Colorado Continued from page 25
A drive out to Zapata Ranch This ranch was a real treat to experience and drive through, spreading out for more than 100,000 acres full of cattle and bison. Covering a large part of southern Colorado, the nature preserve is home to thousands of animals and allows travelers to get up close and personal with the wildlife. This ranch offers packages where you can learn more about its conservation efforts and unique history.
choose from, depending if you're looking for a family vibe or a more romantic environment.
Accommodations in Durango
This line offers guests several options for seeing the sights by locomotive throughout Colorado. I was able to enjoy this comfortable ride and witness some amazing cliff-side views as the rails rugged the precarious route along the mountains. Other tours bring you through old mining areas and through national parks.
It was time to move on and journey to the town of Durango. Here, I was transported back in time to when this state was a little more rugged and mostly an unexplored frontier. I stayed at the Strater Hotel, which has retained an old charm that once was the norm decades ago in the wild west. Each elegant room has a distinct personality, usually presented by beautiful dark wood headboards, detailed wall patterns and rich drapes.
Ancient settlements at Mesa Verde National Park
Witnessing a Ute tribe dance
Speaking of national parks, Mesa Verde was a sight to see. Ancient settlers carved their homes into the cliffs for protection from other tribes and the elements. Although these people were among the first to set up camp in the western states, traces of them all have but vanished besides their houses. Nowadays guests can check out the buildings and imagine what life may have been like for these native people. The settlements blend in with their background, made from stones chipped away form the same rock face they are built upon.
Visiting the Great Dunes National Park One of the U.S's newest national parks, the Great Dunes border Zapata Ranch and is welcoming a growing number of visitors every year. It feels like you are transported into the middle of desert, but the surrounding snow-covered mountain tops snap you back into reality with a quick glimpse. People come from miles around to hike through this sandy landscape or sled down the slippery slopes just after rainfall.
A ride on the Silverton Railroad
Due to the rustic feel of this town in general, many locals claim native American roots and pay homage to this part of the past. I was able to watch a traditional Ute tribe dance while in Durango. Participants wore large headdresses and yellow robes to express power, honor and camaraderie. This was part of the welcoming ceremony I experienced before embarking on the SIlverton Railroad.
The relaxing atmosphere at Pagosa Springs The natural landmarks throughout Colorado are seemingly endless as I continued to find out at the Pagosa Springs. Day or night this is the ideal place for rejuvenation and admiring the view. I made some time to soak in the hot springs and was not disappointed, as this was the most relaxed I felt on the whole trip. There are several spas in town to Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
Staying at the Gateway Canyon Resort Colorado has some stunning places to stay right in the middle of nature, including the Gateway Canyon Resort. Nestled in a gorgeous valley, these top-notch accommodations cater to the needs of
27 The remarkable Colorado National Monument
every single guest. I loved perusing the owner's giant classic car collection onsite, as well as the plethora of activities offered to all those at the resort. You can try everything from mountain biking and rock climbing to spending the day at the spa or by the pool.
The Gateway Canyon Stables Horseback riding used to be an intricate part of life for many Colorado locals, and still remains important to many ranchers as a mean of livelihood. Professional cowboys took us out on a great ride through the estate and the mountains on horseback. Depending on your adventurous spirit, you can take a full day or half-day excursion in the area, or try a private lesson to brush up on your
skills. Other activities they offer include Native American horse painting, "horseback yoga," and even classes in equine massage.
What better way to conclude an amazing trip to Colorado than by visiting the Colorado National Monument. Guests can peer over the side and catch a glimpse of desert vegetation and wildlife. The giant, dignified National Monument greatly embodies all Colorado stands for in it's hospitality and diverse history that I will not soon forget and is another picture perfect Colorado postcard.
Juicy steaks in Grand Junction Colorado locals are often all about the BBQ and tender meat. After six days of eating beef came the seventh. Visiting the town of Grand Junction brings this idea to a whole new level. I feasted on the largest steak I've ever had, accompanied by delectable homemade sides, making for an overall hearty and tasty dishes. With all the active pursuits available throughout this destination, a big, satisfying meal is all the more appreciated.
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
28
Exploring
Germany' s Lake District Article by Tom Koppel Photos by Annie Palovcik
T
he captain of our cabin cruiser sings a sea chanty as he manoeuvres out of a lock and along a canal that connects two beautiful small lakes in what was once East Germany. The low shores are lined with reeds, water lilies and straight young pines. He smiles approvingly as we pass a pair of adult swans and their five fluffy chicks.
Germany's Pristine Northern Lakes "The water is much cleaner now," he says. The birds-ducks, geese and swans-have made a major comeback since the end of Communism. "And there are a lot more fish." In the old days, pollution, mainly from pig farming, flowed right into the rivers and lakes. Today, with strict regulations, the waterways and forests are among the cleanest in Europe, attracting hikers and bikers, kayakers and campers. Restaurants feature delicious local fish and game.
I had studied in divided Germany and travelled widely in the former East during those grim, grey years of the Cold War. Now my wife Annie and I are taking a close look at the changes in the two decades since the fall of the Berlin Wall and reunification of East and West. We spend ten days touring the largely rural Lake District of Brandenburg and Mecklenburg, which lies between Berlin and the Baltic Sea. We discover quiet woods, enchanting villages, and towns with stunning old architecture, a scenic region that is rapidly being revitalized but is not yet well known outside of Germany. A magnet for eco-tourism, it is still quite affordable.
Visiting an Old Friend Our adventure begins with an hour's train ride north from Berlin to the town of Fuerstenberg on the Havel, a meandering river that widens out frequently to create a chain of lakes. We are welcomed by Erich,
29
an anthropologist who did major field work in Canada and has been a dear friend for over 30 years. He drives us to his lovely home facing pristine Roeblin Lake, on the outskirts of Fuerstenberg. We enjoy a brisk swim before dinner and wake in the morning to the tick-tock call of a cuckoo.
Cycling Through the Woods Erich has bikes and kayaks, allowing us to explore. A broad paved biking trail runs through the nearby woods, linking Berlin with Denmark. Unpaved but well-marked hiking and biking trails branch off in every direction. The terrain is fairly flat, making for easy going. We peddle around the shores of two secluded lakes, where signs identify the mushrooms and local birds, to a quaint village called Neuglobsow. Its main attractions are the shops of artisan glass blowers, long a traditional craft in the region, and stylishly restored lodges with B and B rooms ("Bett und Bike") for cyclists. (Doubles cost $70 to $80 a night, including large breakfasts.) We stop for
Kayaking into Town We kayak one afternoon along the Havel into Fuerstenberg itself, which was spared the heavy wartime bombing that destroyed larger German cities. The municipal centre is the market square and sedate Lutheran church built in an unusual neo-Byzantine style with a very tall spire. One and two story eighteenth and nineteenth century buildings line narrow cobblestone streets and quiet backwaters, where the river divides into lazily flowing channels. We paddle past well-tended back yards, with vegetable gardens, fruit trees and wooden piers, where small boats are tied up.
Lakeside Camping and Hiking Trails
lunch at an attractive restaurant, the Luisenhof, where a dozen other bicycles are parked. Sharing a large pork cutlet with mozzarella and tomato sauce, French fries and salad, and two steins of beer, we pay less than $ 25. Another day, we cycle to a smaller village, Grossmenow, where Erich has friends who own an extensive forest. They sell wild deer meat, and occasionally boar, that has been hunted on their land and butchered in their abattoir. Their elegant half-timbered house is built of red brick, with heavy protruding posts and beams and a roof of flat red tiles. Now modernized, with large solar panels on the roof, it dates to the mid-nineteenth century, when the villagers worked mainly in farming, fishing, or logging. Today, most houses are summer and weekend retreats for people from Berlin.
Erich takes us by car an hour northeast to a huge nature reserve near the town of Feldberg, an area with steep hills and narrow deep lakes. The hills are terminal moraines, ridges of rubble left behind by Ice Age glaciers. A unique hand-cranked cable ferry, operated by a brawny guy, crosses Luzin Lake and connects to a hiking trail that winds through pines, lindens and oaks. Unlike the Havel, which has motor boat traffic, this is a fully protected area where all but electric motors are banned. A favourite place for kayaks, canoes and lakeside camping, the shores are blissfully silent, aside from the birds.
Canadian World Traveller Fall 2012
30
Erich and his brother bought one and had it extensively rebuilt. The colony of serene lakeside homes has once again become a highly desirable place to live within easy commuting distance of Germany's nowreunified capital. The same is true for the rest of the Lake District. Money has been pouring in. Old houses and properties everywhere are being snapped up and restored to their former glory.
The entire region abounds in spas and Wellness Centres. (Yes, they use English terms, like Wellness and Fitness. And what we call a canoe, they call a Kanadier, or literally a Canadian.)
Touring by Cabin Cruiser
We come upon a manicured, park-like clearing in the woods. Sculptures of two stags with impressive antlers frame the entrance to a classic century-old boutique hotel called the Hullerbusch. It features ten elegant rooms and fine dining in such an idyllic setting that we mark it as a place to stay some day. Closer to Fuerstenberg, we go to buy organic goat cheese at the specialized dairy where it is made. A young girl is busy feeding 150 Toggenberg milking goats on oats and barley. Most of the cheese is sold at farmers' markets in Berlin.
This becomes clear when we charter a large power boat, so we can eat on board, sleep in the luxurious main cabin, and tour the more distant lakes. Peter, our hired skipper, is a former East German navy captain and a great story teller. After the fall of Communism, he was elected mayor of a cluster of villages and started a successful business. He lets me take the wheel at times and help him to negotiate
Captain Peter is waiting to take us back to Fuerstenberg. Our visit to this delightful part of Germany is winding down. But we would gladly return for the fish alone.
If You Go
Relics of the Cold War Hiking through the woods near Erich's home reveals some fascinating history. Dozens of large villas had been built there in the 1920s by Berlin's upper class. After the Second World War, the Soviet army established a command centre and requisitioned the houses for its top officers. Encircled by guarded checkpoints, the area was off limits to ordinary East Germans. 30,000 troops, 250 tanks, and even some short-range nuclear missiles were stationed nearby. Derelict military buildings still bespoil the forest. On one walk, we come upon a surreal crumbling statue of Lenin, half-engulfed by shrubs. When the Russians withdrew, the houses, by then in terrible condition, were sold, mainly to Berliners and West Germans.
Canadian World Traveller Spring 2012
restaurant patrons, they use dip nets to pull live fish out of a holding tank and grill them as soon as the orders have been taken. At an outdoor table overlooking the lake, we indulge in a large meal of both smoked and lightly broiled lake fish, garnished simply with lemon, herbs and boiled potatoes. It is exquisite. The freshest and sweetest fish we have ever eaten.
the many canal and river locks. We dock for a while at the fabulous old royal town of Rheinsberg, where the Crown Prince of Prussia (who became Frederick the Great) had his palace. The recently renovated neoclassical building, with it turrets and moats, is a splendid location for popular outdoor concerts. The entire town offers a grand display of eighteenth century architecture. There are inviting lakeside restaurants and venerable small hotels, one of them dating back to 1750.
A Meal to Remember The next day, we cruise past Ravensbrueck, a reminder of Germany's darkest years. It was the largest Nazi concentration camp for women and is now a museum-like memorial site. Farther along, we reach a happier destination, the village of Himmelpfort, which features the remains of an ancient cloister and a modern-day fish smoke-house and restaurant, the Seenfischerei. Along our route, we have noticed fixed nets in the shallows that are used to catch such species as char, trout, and eel. In Himmelpfort, they smoke the fish daily for takeaway sales. For
British Airways (www.BA.com) offers excellent connections from Canada to Berlin via London. Flying business class overnight, we were elegantly wined, dined, and finally reclined in flat bed-like seats. We have never arrived so rested after a long flight. Cardinal Boating (www.cardinalboating.com), based on Roeblin Lake, charters British-built cabin cruisers with controls labelled in English. Customers competent to handle large power boats need no special license, or hired captain, to navigate the Lake District. Kayak, canoe and bike rentals are widely available. Tom Koppel's latest book on history, science and travel is Mystery Islands: Discovering the Ancient Pacific. It is now available at www.uspbookcentre.com and soon at Amazon