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Z e a l a n d * P a n a m a * H a v a n a * B C * A r k a n s a s * L a s
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Slovenia & croatia * India * East Afric an Birds * Chamonix Mont-Blanc
A word from the editors
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elcome to the Summer/Fall 2014 Issue of Canadian World Traveller which is being distributed across
Published by
Canadian World Traveller
African birds. We then take in the European history and culture with active vacations. First we cycle,
Greater Montreal, as well as in select locations
hike and kayak through Slovenia and Croatia
in the Greater Toronto Area.
and then travel to the beautiful region of
The magazine is now in the eleventh year of its publication. This issue, as well as many previous issues and all our published articles
Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France for skiing and a stay at Club Med. In Asia we visit the breathtaking and
are archived on our website at www.canadian-
magnificent Taj Mahal before we head way
worldtraveller.com.
south to picture perfect New Zealand for more
In addition to an electronic version of
cycling. In Latin America we visit charming
Canadian World Traveller sent by email you
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Closer to home we journey to four corners of North America. In coastal British
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Columbia we go foraging for wild edible
after reading it or better still share it with oth-
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ers.
the fun, sun, sins, and above all the incredible In this issue we start our worldwide
odyssey in Africa, first we visit remarkable Tunisia - Jewel on the Mediterranean and its many faces. Further south we go bird-watching and witness the beautiful and diverse East
pools. In Arkansas we discover many hidden gems, first in the ground and then in the many welcoming happy locals. We end our travels in Ann Arbor, Michigan ‘Down on
4055, Ste-Catherine Street W., Suite 158 Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8 Tel.: (514) 667-2293 www.canadianworldtraveller.com Email: info@canadianworldtraveller.com Publisher Michael Morcos Editor-in-chief Greg James Graphic Artist Al Cheong Advertising Leo Santini Marketing Tania Tassone Distribution Royce Dillon Contributors: Alan G. Luke, Ruth Atherley, Adam Scott Kennedy, Steven Sanders, A. M. Macloughlin, Chris Higgins, Habeeb Salloum, and Dave Cox. Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos: Tunisia Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.
Main Street’. Happy Travels!
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Tunisia The Jewel on the Mediterranean Sea
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The Land Divided, the World United
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Slovenia & Croatia Old Havana Out of my comfort zone and into adventure
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Ta j M a h a l
B r i t i s h C o l u m b i a 34
Foraging for wild shellfish
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A q u i c k g u i d e t o b i r d wat c h i n g i n
Arkansas
East Africa
Hidden Gems and Friendly Folk
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France Chamonix Mont-Blanc Ă la Club Med
Two-wheeling in
Fu n S u n S i n s & Po o l s 44
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New Zealand
Ann Arbor Down on Main Street
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Tunisia
The Jewel on the Mediterranean Sea by Michael Morcos
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hen thinking of the many beautiful places this world offers as a possible destination for a vacation, Tunisia is sometimes overlooked. This being my first trip there, Tunisia was one great big happy surprise! Whether it is the breath-taking scenery in the lush green north or the hot and dry deserts in the south, the cuisine, or the unbelievably friendly people, Tunisia tantalizes the senses! Its history is a wealth of Phoenician, Roman, Islamic and French influence and all this can be experienced with the peace of mind knowing that you are in a safe country. Our trip began and ended in the north. To the north we would visit the capital Tunis, as well as the coastal towns of Sidi Bou Said, Hammamet and Bizet, followed by a three-day tour of the southern Tunisian oasis towns of Tozeur, Tamerza, Chebika, Mides and Nefta.
Beautiful North Coast The jagged, mountainous and sunny Mediterranean coastline was a fantastic introduction to Tunisia. I had to remind myself that I was not in Greece as the blue waters and whitewashed houses could easily be mistaken for other parts of this well-travelled sea. The popular postcard town of Sidi Bou Said was a relaxing way to wash away the jetlag as we wandered through the charming little streets. Along the way we would watch local women painting Henna tattoos on visitors' hands and feet. I bought many Tunisian handy crafts such as colourful ceramic plates. Our day would end at a crowded hillside outdoor cafe with mint tea under a golden setting sun.
Tunis This being our first full day, we would start and end our day in the Tunisian capital. At first glance, Tunis is a clean, organized and quiet city. There was an obvious North African feel to the city but surprisingly it also had a western flavour. This is probably due to the fact Tunisia was a French colony until 1956. I found on its main boulevard, cafĂŠs with outdoor seating that one could mistake for Paris. The western and Arab architecture and street design blended well, giving a unique and pleasant atmosphere.
MarchĂŠ Central Our first stop would be the central market. Unlike many food markets I have visit-
ed, this one was very clean and wellorganized and the vendors were among the friendliest I had ever met. They took great pride in their produce as they continually cleaned and stacked the counters. Divided in many sections, this large market had almost anything one would want. Most notable were the sweet smells of the fruit and vegetable section and the marvellously well-presented produce stalls stacked eight feet high by 20 feet across. Not far away was the seafood section, evidence the sea was not far away. I was amazed by the variety of fish and seafood and watched and photographed the merchants cleaning the day's catch.
Mornag Wine Cellars Both the Phoenicians and Romans grew grapes and produced wines in Tunisia. This legacy is still alive and well as we toured the historical underground caves of Mornag where local producers share the cellars as part of a co-op. A wine tasting of the many splendid reds, whites and even sparkling wine in a dimly lit cave, surrounded by aging oak barrels and a musky smell was truly a great experience. My favourite wine and choice for the remainder of the trip was the Vieux Magon that rivals the finest wines of France and Italy.
Hammamet Hammamet lies on the coast and is known for its many great sandy beaches. Dominating the city is the Kasbah (Arabic for fort) where from the upper terrace I got a 360-degree view of the blue ocean, the golden sandy beaches, the Great Mosque, the medina and the white washed houses of the city. A late afternoon leisurely stroll through the narrow shaded streets and winding alley of the old medina is like a walk back in time. Visiting the many small stores, cafes and souvenir shops found on every corner was a cooling relief from the hot sun and an opportunity to buy Tunisian spices and fragrant essential oils. By contrast, Hammamet's new development area has large-scale hotels that tailor to the all-inclusive vacationer. Most of these hotels had large swimming pools and were directly located on or close to the beaches. Our guide stopped at a couple for short visits. My favourite was the Vincci Lella Baya hotel. I was amazed by the five story high lobby, the detail of its unique interior looking like the set of a Star Wars film.
Roman Tunisia
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Tunisia was a prized territory for the Romans as it was and is the closet point to Africa for them. The Romans named this area Africa, derived from the Afri, the name of the tribes who dwelt in the area and thus the name of the whole continent. The Romans firmly left their mark in Tunisia and a visit to the Utique agrological site and the Sbeitla archaeological site (further south) were evidence of their influence in this part of Africa. The Utique ruins were still under excavation but what was exposed showed that this was an important Roman site. The mosaic floors that were evident everywhere were mostly intact while some buildings had erect columns and facades. Most surprising was the green countryside. The Romans chose this place well. Gentle rolling hills, ever green trees and wild flowers dotted the landscape. With the perfect mild spring weather, it reminded me more of Austria than Africa.
Bizerte Bizerte is the principal town on the northeast cost of Tunisia. First settled by the Phoenicians and used as a strategic port it was later taken by the Romans followed by the Arabs, Turks, Germans and the French. They all seemed to fancy the good life by the sea and after a short visit here I could see why. The most attractive area of the city is the picturesque old port, where we spent time at the cafes watching the colourful boats come and go and fisherman unloading their catch. In near perfect sunny weather we took a walk down the tree-lined seaside promenade that runs along the mostly empty beaches. In the gentle ocean breeze I could not help but think of the balance this place. Clean, friendly, warm and beautiful, Bizerte was another of the many great happy surprises on my trip through Tunisia.
Lunch with a View Perched atop a cliff, La Falaise Restaurant was one of my favourite places to savour the Tunisian seafood. The vista was breathtaking and the ideal setting to end our tour of the north. Our waiter brought us a tray full of the day's catch of fish and crustaceans to choose from. Our selection was shortly prepared and served with Tunisian salad, fresh French breads, couscous, vegetables, spicy olives and of course great wine.
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
10 Magnificent South A short flight out of Tunis brought us to the oasis town of Tozeur. The relatively short one-hour trip was enough to bring us to what seemed like a different country, as we noticed the contrast immediately. This was a much-awaited part of the trip and Tozeur would now be our base for the next three nights. We would explore the many fantastic places and sites that dotted this desert region of Tunisia. With a population of only 25,000, Tozeur is still one of the major southern towns. Dwarfed by over 200,000 palm trees watered by hundreds of natural underground springs, Tozeur was a paradise. Trees, flowers and water were found everywhere. It was hard to believe beyond the city limits was the desert. There were plenty of things to see and do. With an overcharged schedule we could only do a bit of the most important things. The Tozeur medina was small but full of great surprises on every street. Most interesting were the small residential doorways that opened up to large courtyards and dwellings of the local inhabitants. I loved the cozy cafes that gave me a real sense of being in Northern Africa. Locals would fill these meeting places until the morning hours as they sipped their mint tea and coffee, smoked their water pipes and socialized. Antique stores were very interesting and had articles dating back decades. I could have spent days looking for those perfect decorative pieces but unfortunately with only small luggage for my trip I was forced to settle for pictures instead.
The Red Lizard A great time was had on the old fashioned train, the "Red Lizard" as it travelled down rail tracks through desert, water springs, mountain tunnels, deep gorges, steel bridges, blue skies and bright sun. Tourists from around the globe crowded this little red train. Marvellous was the best way to explain the scenery as I spent most of the train ride near an open window with sweetened mint tea in hand, only briefly stretching my legs during scheduled stops.
Tamerza Like a mirage the Tamerza oasis stands out in the mostly barren and mountainous desert. Like magic, cool water rushed through underground springs forming a river, waterfalls and small pools, enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. A walk through the hilly shaded palm
tree oasis was a welcome relief to the very hot off-road truck ride. A refreshing dip would have been even better, but a tight schedule and no bathing suit did not permit this. The Tamerza Palace hotel that was found on top of a hill had a spectacular view of the surrounding desert mountains. It overlooked the dried out riverbed and deserted Berber town that was abandoned after a great flood destroyed its homes. This was a perfect place for lunch. The newly built hotel was designed with all the modern amenities and had stylish looking rooms with a Tunisian accent.
Mides Not far away was the Mides gorge. A North American could easily mistake it for part of the Grand Canyon. This area that bordered the country of Algeria was made famous by the film 'The English Patient'. I soon found out the Tunisian south is a popular setting for movie making. The sheer vertical drop of the gorge was created by many years of erosion by the river below that snaked through it. I was able to get right to the edge of the gorge where I sat and enjoyed the aweinspiring scenery. In silence I observed a goat herder and his goats grazing on the few strands of grass on the nearby hill. It was a simple sight made beatific juxtaposed against the big cities, the traffic, the noise pollution and the 9 to 5 routine found back home.
The Real Star Wars The actual sets of the Star Wars film have been left untouched in the middle of the desert. The many structures that stand against the sandy background were in decay but the government is making plans to freshen up the site and preserve it as it is an often-visited tourist attraction.
A Boy and His Fox Our driver made a sudden stop. Walking on the side of the dirt road was a young boy waving at us. Proudly he approached us with an animal in his hand. Looking carefully I noticed it was a desert fox. He had caught it himself by setting up traps. We took pictures of him and his new pet and gave him a small tip. Money in one hand, his pet fox in the other, the boy walked tall and proud with a big smile as bright as the sun.
Camel Ride in the Desert I could not resist a camel ride through the desert at sunset. It was one of the highlights of my trip. Our 4x4 truck left
the roads, paved and unpaved alike, to get to a secluded area known for the fine sand dunes. This was the wild Sahara Desert we all know in photographs and film. It was a hostile place and a beautiful place at the same time. In both instances, it was humbling. The wide-open spaces were devoid of life. Nothing could possibly grow here. Lack of water and lack of rain meant there were only sand dunes in every direction, as far as the eye could see. The heat and the sun were unrelenting but our sure-footed camels did not seem to care. Onward we rode until we finally found a spot where we could sit on the edge of a dune and watch the sun set over the horizon leaving a fiery red sky. In the night we made our way back by the light of the moon and the stars above. It was an experience. It was an adventure. It was a delight!
Kairouan On the last leg of our journey we would travel overland back to the capitol to catch our flight home. Along the way we would see a drastic change of scenery as we left southern desert and approached more fertile north. We stopped for lunch and toured the holy Muslim city of Kairouan. This city ranks after Mecca and Medina as a major place of pilgrimage. The very friendly people of this city greeted us with open arms everywhere we went. We visited many different places including a local bakery, a traditional Tunisian pastry shop, the old medina itself and an eighth century well that was still being used. The water in this well was being brought to the surface by using a blindfolded camel that moved in circles driving a mechanism that drew water up. I stood in amazement. Nothing had changed for centuries.
Good-bye (for now) Time flies when you are having fun and our seven days touring wonderful Tunisia passed all too quickly. My lasting memories of Tunisia will be fond ones. I marvelled at its natural beauty. I was intrigued by its rich and storied history. I adored the great cuisine, fine wines and fresh seafood. But most of all I will remember the friendly, caring, gentle, and soft-spoken Tunisians who made me feel at home while so far away from mine. These are reasons enough to return to this hidden gem on the Mediterranean. I can't wait!
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Tunisia
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Slovenia &
Out of my comfort zone and
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y first reaction to the idea of taking BikeHike’s active, adventure tour to Slovenia and Croatia (The Alps to Istria) was: “What?”, “Where?” and “Why?” While I am healthy and reasonably fit, I thought I might be too old (over 40) for an adventure tour. I couldn’t have been more wrong. In fact, more and more people over 40, 50, 60 and even 70 are choosing tours that take you outside the gates of an all-inclusive and into an incredible, active, authentic and connected experience. After all, 60 is the new 40! The fact that BikeHike Adventures is celebrating their 20th anniversary this year tells me that they have lots of experience with these types of tours.
This tour is defined as “moderate,” which means you need a reasonable fitness level because you bike, kayak or hike for up to five hours per day. The good news is that a support vehicle follows the group in case someone needs a break. The activity level is enough to make you feel like you accomplished something (and appreciate the glass of wine or cold beer at the end of the day), but doesn’t push you beyond your limits. It offers a good balance of activity, relaxation and time to explore local culture. This eight-day group trip, one of BikeHike’s most popular European tours, begins in Slovenia and wraps up in Croatia. BikeHike’s maximum on any trip is 12 people, with a minimum of two, so it is
always a small group. The “land only” cost is $2,999 U.S. per person (with no single supplement). It covers almost everything once you are on the ground, including the tour guide, transportation of your luggage, support vehicle, bikes, kayaks, most meals and accommodation. Slovenia and Croatia are largely undiscovered gems, which means it is still possible to have an authentic, “non-touristy” experience. The regions visited on this tour are a culinary and wine lover’s paradise. They could be compared to some parts of Italy for food, wine and history, but with their own unique and – as yet – undiscovered charm.
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Croatia
into adventure Along the way, there is an overnight stay in a mountain hut in the Julian Alps, hiking through green pastures and alpine mountains, cycling and several wine tastings through the Brda wine region (known as “Slovenian Tuscany”). This itinerary goes through lands of castles, vineyards, small white churches and friendly villages. It is a perfect balance of the road less travelled and the opportunity to step into a magical world full of history and charm – one that hasn’t been overwhelmed by tour buses and big groups. In Croatia, there is more vineyard cycling on the legendary route of the Parenzana, called “The Railway of Wine” – with a rich history of its own. Visiting local villages and
medieval towns along the route brings the past alive. Meeting locals, making friends in the small tour group, and stepping into moments right out of history creates once-in-a-lifetime memories different from anything you could possibly expect. Sometimes moving out of your comfort zone takes you into amazing experiences that you never could have imagined and, now, never want to forget.
BikeHike Adventures Inc. http://www.bikehike.com The Alps to Istria Tour http://www.bikehike.com/croatiaslovenia-adventure-tours
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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T h e M o s t E x t r a v a g a n t M o n u m e n t T o L o v e E v e r B u i lt
by Habeeb Salloum
Built as a monument to love, the Taj Mahal, the most famous of all India's tourist attractions, on July 7, 2007 was voted by approximately 100 million people from around the globe, who cast their ballots by telephone and Internet, to be one of the ‘New Seven Wonders of the World’. It was a well-earned acclamation for unlike most of mankind's other great structures it was not erected to satisfy religious fervour or the vanities of rulers. Rather this symbol of India's sub-continent was constructed in honour to profess esteem, devotion and love. Historians and travellers have, through the ages, considered it more than just a building or some significant event but a total experience. Said to be the product of the greatness and nobility of Islam in India, it is the most drawn, photographed and described building structure in the world. For more than three and a half centuries it has stood as a reminder of Islamic medieval splendour. At the time the Puritans were erecting their log cabins in New England, the Indian Moghul Emperor, Shah Jahan was constructing his famous Taj Mahal. During his reign Moghul civilization in India had reached its golden age and, everywhere, Indian cities were being embellished with palatial palaces. After his wife, Queen Arjumand Banu Begum, better known as Mumtaz Mahal (Chosen One of the Palace), died in 1631 while giving birth to their 14th child, Shah Jahan decided to immortalize her memory. He had been smitten with Mumtaz's extraordinary beauty at first
sight and had married her for love in 1612 when she was 21. Through the years, he came to respect her intelligence and relied on her for support and advice in state affairs. His ardour and esteem for her never wavered until her dying day. Grief-stricken by Mumtaz's death, he vowed to build her a memorial which would be the crown of palaces - surpassing in magnificence anything the world had ever witnessed. Construction began in 1632 and the mausoleum was completed sometime in 1653. It took 20,000 craftsmen and labourers 21 years to build this exquisite work of art. Shah Jahan had ordered it to be constructed as delicate and graceful as his beloved wife and his wishes were more than fulfilled. His creation, described as the aesthetic epitome of Mogul civilization is to many of its admirers the greatest love story ever told. Situated on the southern bank of the Jumna River where it can be seen like an extraordinary mirage from the nearby Agra Fort, it is a moon-white fantasy in marble which becomes indelibly etched on the retina of every visitor's eyes. From its enormous 30 m (100 ft) high colossal three-storey marble gateway inscribed with verses from the Koran, the Taj Mahal opens up like an overflowing jewel box. Inside, the mausoleum, topped with a massive dome rising 24 m (80 ft) over its roof, is hidden by large trees and geometrically arranged manicured gardens covering some 17 ha (42 ac). Its reflecting pool edged by cypresses catches the glittering images on the tomb, casting a magic spell on most onlookers. The shrine, located on a 29 sq m (313 sq ft) marble platform of a black and white chessboard design, is caged by two buildings of red sandstone - one a mosque and the other a replica of a mosque flanked by four dainty and slender 42 m (138 ft) minarets, standing on each corner of the platform. A jewelled mosaics and marble screen of latticework, as intricate as lace, surrounds the beautifully inlaid marble burial place which houses the crypts of both Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan.
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on the opposite bank of the Jumna, his own tomb in black marble as a facsimile of the Taj. This was to be connected with that of his beloved queen with a bridge, but it was not to be. In 1658, five years after Taj Mahal was completed, he was overthrown by his own son, Aurangzeb, and incarcerated in the Red Fort of Agra. His only consolation was that he could look from one of the Fort's windows on his masterpiece, the Taj Mahal. During the ensuing years of confinement he never became reconciled to Mumtaz's loss and in 1666, 36 years after his wife had passed away, he died, still in prison it is said while gazing at the reflection of his beloved wife's white and noble Taj, across the river. He was laid to rest by the only woman he had ever loved. Until our times, this architectural marvel, declared by UNESCO as a building of outstanding universal value, has inspired poets and writers. Many of the some 10 million annual tourists like to view it in the early morning when the first pale rays of the sun give a soft sultry lustre to the marble, twinkling in a coat of blue, mauve and pink. However, at any time of the day or night it is a breath-taking structure. It alters in appearance, colour and character with every shift of sunlight - blinding white at noon, mellowing at dusk and a deathly blue-white at night. One can truly say, "It is a tombpalace like no other.
The smell of sandalwood and jasmine incense pervades the interior and this aroma intertwined with the allencompassing beauty spellbinds a visitor. Said to be the most marvellous memorial to anyone on the globe, it enshrines forever the splendour and glory of Moghul structures. Shah Jahan wanted to build, Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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A q u i c k g u i d e t o b i r d wat c h i n g i n
East Africa Article and images by Adam Scott Kennedy
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hen dreaming of a safari vacation in East Africa, most people conjure up images of Lions, Elephants and Giraffe but my strongest advice is “don’t forget the birds”! Over 1400 species have been recorded in the region covering Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda and the littleknown Burundi and while there is no shortage of ‘little brown jobs’ (LBJs) for the experts to get excited over, there are many 100s of stunning birds of all shapes and sizes to occupy the eyes on game drives or when you’re taking some wellearned down-time back at your lodge. For serious birders, or ‘twitchers’, there are numerous companies offering dedicated birdwatching holidays throughout the region but all-round nature-lovers wishing to spend a day or two focussing on birds can easily incorporate a few
exceptional sites to boost their bird lists. Having spent six years working and birding in East Africa, I have been very impressed with the quality of local bird guides at many key sites but I advise that you book one in advance of your arrival to avoid disappointment. Many can be booked directly with your lodge or camp but with the rise of internet use in the region, many also have a profile online, even their own website! You cannot beat local knowledge and using a local bird guide is a great way to ensure that birdrich areas are well-protected outside of national parks and reserves as it helps communities to realise the value of natural resources. The list of excellent birding sites is almost endless but, in terms of access to a large number of species in a relatively small area, there are few places to beat the
lakes of Kenya’s Great Rift Valley. Lake Naivasha is a great place to get out on the water to view a colourful array of pelicans, herons, storks, ibis and kingfishers not to mention iconic gems like African Jacana, or Lily-trotter, and noisy African Fish Eagles. Nearby, Lake Nakuru National Park provides all the thrills of a game-rich reserve combined with lakeshore, open grassland, cliffs and rich woodlands and here you could encounter the turkey-sized Southern GroundHornbill, the snake-hunting Secretarybird and huge Martial Eagles. At the right time of year, the lake itself plays host to tens of thousands of flamingos, a sight which legendary ornithologist Roger Tory Peterson once called "the greatest bird spectacle on earth". These two locations can become busy at times so if solitude and tranquillity are your thing then a short journey north to Lake Baringo could
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ful sunbirds, among 300+ other bird species, numerous monkeys, and the huge African Crowned Eagle, a specialist primate-hunter, which can often be seen from the grounds where it occasionally nests. There are numerous tracks through the forest and a guided walk with a local bird guide is highly recommended.
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Birdwatching in thick forest can be challenging but also provides some of the most rewarding experiences, especially when combined with chimp and gorillawatching activities in Uganda or Rwanda, for example. This contrasts with birding on game drives in savannah habitats, such as the Masai Mara or Serengeti, which is far more sedate but equally rewarding with Lilac-breasted Roller (most safari-goers favourite colourful bird), Kori Bustard (the world’s heaviest flying bird) and Ostrich (the multi-record breaker) among the many avian highlights.
Top tips
well be in order. This beautiful lake is situated within a semi-desert environment and surrounded by lush gardens and reed-beds that attract many special birds, some of which are found almost nowhere else in East Africa. The most comfortable accommodation in the area can be found on the private Samatian Island which has the feel of a private island in the Indian Ocean and it is home to many birds. Another favourite birding destination of mine is Kakamega Forest and no visit would be complete without an overnight, preferably more, at the idyllic Rondo Retreat which is set within well-manicured gardens and surrounded by lush rainforest, the most-easterly point of the vast Guinea-Congalese forest belt that reaches to the Atlantic coast of Gabon. Here you can enjoy the sight and sound of the Great Blue Turaco and a variety of colour-
A trusted pair of binoculars are the most essential tool along with a good field guide. I always recommend a moderate amount of research in advance of a trip in order to familiarise yourself with the commoner 25-50 species. Once these species have been identified, a really useful step would be to learn their calls, which can be downloaded for free at www.xeno-canto.org, as this can help eliminate confusing species in the field. For further advice on birding in East Africa, feel free to drop me an email to info@rawnaturephoto.com and I’ll be very happy to help where I can.
About the Author Together with wife Vicki, Adam Scott Kennedy is the author of five photographic identification guides to the wildlife of East Africa, all published by Princeton University Press. His latest book, Birds of Kenya’s Rift Valley, features colour images and descriptions of 320 frequently seen species and is hot off the press.
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Chamonix
F r a
Ă la Club by Michael Morcos
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he French Alps have a wealth of wonders ready to share with visitors and the town of Chamonix, in the Savoie region, is a magnificent example of the riches available! This idyllic town is a popular spot for many reasons, including for the ever charming town itself! This region links three countries together, and is a major draw for people travelling from Italy through the long tunnel under Mont Blanc, an engineering marvel in itself. Switzerland is also a close neighbour and has many visitors who come to this town filled with outdoor cafes, restaurants and bars. The welcoming nature of the town is reinforced by the stylish inns and boutique hotels, ancient fountains, a lovely church, cobbled stone streets and pedestrian shopping areas with many speciality stores selling local foods including cheese and sausage delicacies. We stayed at the Club Med Chamonix, well situated in the lovely town with MontBlanc lift stations right behind the complex and easy access to the amazing skiing available on its slopes and the charming town outside the door. The Club Med resort was a fantastic place to stay, with a staff filled with an amazing group of welcoming, enthusiastic, attentive people, who were never intrusive. From reception to the goodbye, they were ready and willing to help at a moment’s notice. The hotel itself is large and has many different niches and alcoves to sit with the family to play a game, have a warm drink with a partner or enjoy a fireside book. The outdoor swimming pool was comfortable to swim in but a little cool to "lounge" in, but the misty effect caused by the temperature difference created a lovely atmosphere. The poolside deserves an additional special mention for its cleanliness and mountain views to take the breath away. My room offered a balcony with a panoramic view of the extraordinary MontBlanc. Comfortably furnished, the room was a good place to recoup, regroup and recover. As expected when visiting France, the food was exceptional, and on any given night just about everything you could think of
was served. To our delight, the desert table was completely sinful and we were also treated to the local speciality of an amazing Savoie cheese fondue and Pierrade – a flat hot plate style of cooking meats and vegetables.
around the summit! For the less daring, there is a glass over hang on top where people can walk onto a glass plate form, this is safe but a very scary feeling and most people are quite reluctant but come back laughing!.
The entertainment was multi-lingual, with French and English being used along with a little Russian, Italian, Portuguese and more. The shows were run by the resort staff and were an entertaining mix of proficiency and enthusiasm. Other in-resort fun included the lounge and the disco, repleat with music from around the world.
The Mer de Glace is a glacier that is as fun to ski as it is too incredible to see. You have the option to take a cute red cog (a train speciality outfitted to climb steep inclines). An elevator at the top will bring you to a terrace with fantastic views of Mt. Blanc.
The Hotel is on the edge of the town centre, happily within walking distance after a full days skiing! Skiing was, of course, the greatest part of the stay. The region is a top ski destination for a reason, and Club Med has responded to this with their typical style. Their massive ski pro shop offers rentals for either skiing or snowboarding and they have hired excellent ski instructors, who also acted as our guides and friends throughout our stay. Access to the slopes was either by walking a few yards to a beginner slope or taking a button lift which allowed an easy ski to the main lift, or by bus to a linked ski centre. For myself, Mont Blanc, located behind the town and close by the resort, gave me the ski experience of a lifetime! Our days were filled with fun and exciting activities, and as the town is situated near the massive peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges, Chamonix is one of the oldest ski resorts in France and is known as the "gateway to the European Cascades." The 1924 Winter Olympics were held in this picturesque town and its special Alpine feeling is quite palpable. If you visit Chamonix, there is something you must do - climb the l'Aiguille next to Mont Blanc. The gondola follows two pathways to the top. The first leg heads up to the Plan de L'Aiguille. At this point you can visit the mid-station, a great place to start some backcountry skiing. In the summer time you'll want to continue on to the top. At 12,605 feet you will probably start feeling the altitude at the summit station. There you will find the walkway/tunnel to the area where skiers start their descent of the Mer De Glace glacier. The trail is considered one of the longest ski descents in the world. In the summer, the cliff faces are filled with adventurous rock climbers
The Club also provided shuttles that took us to other ski hills in the region, offering us different runs and experiences on a daily basis. The skiing is exquisite for all skill levels and extreme enough for me; but some members of our group went on a thrill-seekers adventure. Up very early one morning, they made there way to the top of the Aiguille de midi mountain, from there they ascended with skis in hand on dangerous and narrow paths to ski untouched mountain trails. They said it was heavenly, I said it was crazy! The area is known for extreme sports, including the skiing. Parasailing and hang gliding amongst the mountains is an amazing experience for those with a stomach for heights, and the most incredible thing I saw were two young men who would climb to tops of mountains and fly like birds through the sky. They looked like bats with their special black ‘wing suit’ and would finally land with a parachute. Unbelievable! In the town, visitors can also enjoy the Chamonix Leisure park at the feet of Mont Blanc ! This Amusement park is an ideal place to spend a pleasant afternoon in a family or in group. More than 15 activities and games await you! The Chamonix Luge Alpine Coaster is open in summer and winter and there are many other activities available. Slides, toboggans, trampolines, electric motorcycles, climbing parks, giant swings, boat flying... A great family activity! My stay at club med in this magical playground was a memorable experience full of physical activities, wonderful gastronomy and lots of French culture.
www.clubmed.com www.chamonix.com
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Chamonix Mont-Blanc
Ă la Club Med
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Two-wheeling in
New
by Ruth Atherley
Photo: Miles Holden
W
hile there are plenty of ways to get around in New Zealand, one of the most fun is on two wheels. With so many options – motorcycle tours, biking in a wine region, or riding the New Zealand Cycle Trail – visitors can lift their feet off the ground and check out the sights, sounds and magic of the country. With stunning views and dramatically changing landscapes, New Zealand roads offer an exceptional experience for motorcycle fans. While there are several differ-
Photo: Mike Heydon
ent tour providers throughout the country, Bularangi Motorbikes both rents and offers one and multi-day guided tours on Harley Davidsons. They run the tours in Auckland, Christchurch and Queenstown. The tours can be self-ride or as a passenger, depending on whether the visitor has a motorcycle licence. So even those without a licence can experience the thrill of riding a Harley. For those who want to use their own power to move the wheels, most wine regions throughout New Zealand have a
range of bike tours to get you from winery to winery. The tour operators provide you with a bike, helmet (you are drinking wine, after all) and tailor your route and the wineries you will visit to match your fitness level and wine interests. Cycling lets you ride at your own pace, often along the edge of the vineyards – allowing you to take in the area’s beauty. And if you have indulged a little too much in the tastings, tour operators are happy to come and collect you and your bike! In the Marlborough region, famous for its sauvignon blanc, Wine Tours By Bike, highlight-
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Zealand
ed as a “top tour” by Lonely Planet, offers a range of customized self-guided bike tours. The bikes even have special wine carriers to hold purchases from the cellar doors that you visit! For those who want to take their cycling to that next level, the clear choice is the New Zealand Cycle Trail – Nga Haerenga – which, in Maori, means “the journeys” in both a physical and spiritual sense. When the last of the 22 “Great Rides” that make up the trail are completed by the end of 2014, cyclists will have almost 2,500 kilo-
metres of dedicated bike routes through iconic landscapes from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island.
to Auckland and offers flights from many other North American cities. For more information about New Zealand, please visit: www.NewZealand.com.
Seeing New Zealand on two wheels gives visitors the opportunity to see many regions of the country from a different perspective. Whether on a motorcycle or bicycle, riders are sure to find some Kiwi magic on their trail.
Bularangi Motorbikes – http://www.bularangi.com/motorcycletours/
Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.ca) has direct non-stop flights from Vancouver
New Zealand Cycle Trail – http://www.nzcycletrail.com/
Wine Tours By Bike – http://www.winetoursbybike.co.nz/
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Pa n a m a Canal Centennial - The Land Divided, the World United Article & Images by: Alan G. Luke
I
n 1903, a treaty between the newly independent Panama and the United States permitted the U.S. to undertake the construction of an inter-oceanic ship canal across the Isthmus of Panama. "Undertaking" was the operative word since 500 lives were lost for every mile of the canal constructed, more by disease than accidents. President Theodore Roosevelt stated during his initial Congressional address: "No single great material work which remains to be undertaken on this continent is of such consequence to the American people as the Panama Canal". Since the end of the century, the control of the canal has reverted to the small
Central American country, truly marking the end of an era. This reluctant relinquishment by the United States may have resulted in “separation anxiety”. However, minimal change has occurred, state most cruise lines. When changes actually materialize, they will quite likely benefit cruise patrons. New excursions will provide passengers with a relatively extensive ecological experience similar to that of Costa Rica but sans wildlife. During this phase, plans have been made for beach hotels and even golf courses. Evidently, some of the property under consideration is that of former U.S. military bases. Prior to the American venture, the French effort (1882-89) on La Grande Tranchie (The Great Trench) was brought to bankruptcy and disgrace due to disease and financial problems. Although the premier promoter, Ferdinand de Lesseps, was the chief engineer of the Suez Canal, this constructive creation would not reach fruition. Eventually, it evolved into a sophisticated engineering feat that was a veritable convergence of men, might and money which made this modern marvel a magnificent monument that defined a defiant era. It was also the first time electricity was utilized on such a massive scale. The "Big
Ditch" provided a vital international trade link when it officially opened on August 15, 1914. Although it was overshadowed by the start of World War I, less than two weeks before, the impressive entity trims over 8,200 miles (13,120 km) off the New York City - San Francisco route. It generally requires 9 hours for the average ship to traverse all 3 sets of locks (Gatun, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores) along the 48-mile (77 km) waterway. All locks weigh 730 tons each and it takes over 26 million gallons (100 million litres) of water to raise a ship in them. Currently, more than 14,000 ships, including over 250 cruise ships, gain annual passage through the canal system paying tolls based on gross tonnage. Several of these offer a partial transit, entering and exiting from the Caribbean Sea. The Canal Visitors Center & Museum is an impressive facility located on the east side of the Miraflores Locks. It features observation terraces, a theater, a restaurant and a hall of special events. Video presentations and interactive modules can be experienced within the four exhibition halls. “Beyond the Panama Canal” events will unfold throughout the (2014) centennial year.
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volume to accommodate 500 school buses. The individual chambers have the capacity to park four space shuttles and the height is equal to that of the Eiffel Tower. Onboard, a continuous commentary provides you with intriguing information en route. The successful completion of the U.S. effort cost almost 6,000 lives and $387 million to construct over a ten year period, compared to the aborted French operation that cost 22,000 lives and $300 million dollars over eight years. Richard Halliburton did actually swim the locks in 1928 paying .36¢; today, the mega-liners can pay in excess of $90,000 for a transit fee (with an average cost being $34,000 US). In 1992, further excavation was initiated to widen the canal which was originally built to accommodate the size of the HMS Titanic that was 46,328 gross tons and carried 2,223 passengers and crew. Generally, the canal cannot accommodate vessels that exceed the 100,000 tons limit depending on their width and length. Numerous mega-ships build over the past several years would get wedged in the "Big Ditch". For those interested in a marginal sampling of this wondrous waterway, a partial tour on a cruise ship is also an inviting venture. Just over an hour later and the vessel has passed through the Gatun Locks and into Gatun Lake after being raised or lowered 85 feet (26 metres) in three stages. Ships are gradually raised above sea level to cross the continental divide. The lake is almost half the length of the entire canal and was the largest man-made lake of its time 24 miles (38 km long). One can experience the luxuriant security from the upper decks as you scan the 100-foot ferns amidst the mangrove swamp and the massive swath of land wrenched from nature. Some of the “islands” you pass are in reality mountain tops. Viewing the jungle landscape, you can envision this prodigious project being progressively perpetrated as you are transported along this tremendous tropical trough. This man-made miracle of machinery is an accomplishment not to be taken for granted. Six 55-ton electric locomotives, known as "mules", guide the vessels into the locks with cables. Each of the 6 double-sided locks has seven foot thick gates with a length of 3 regulation football fields and a
Presently, the world’s largest cruise ship is Royal Caribbean International's Oasis (and her sister ship Allure) of the Seas at 225,000 gross tons (with a 6,300 capacity). Such behemoths are too large to transit the Panama Canal system. Some cruise lines have been adhering to the "panamax" specifications to ensure their ships are of the nominal size to gain entry into the locks. The introduction of a Panama Canal expansion proposal will build a new lane of traffic along the canal that would double the capacity and allow more traffic. The project is estimated to cost 5.25 billion and would be paid entirely by users of the canal through a graduated system of toll increases. Just off the South American coast, several cruise ships provide excursions to the San Blas Islands. Discovered in 1501 by Rodrigo de Bastidas, the islands became a popular rendezvous point for pirates and privateers alike into the 1700s. Home to native Panamanian citizens, the autonomous Cuna Indians uphold their ancient traditions here. The populace has a restrictive gene pool due to inbreeding and consequently there exists a high ratio of albinism (1 in 220 are albinos). They are monogamous and matrilineal-oriented with a low life expectancy and a high infant mortality rate.
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Cruise ships provide tenders to the palmladen isles where a sun-baked beach barbecue is prepared for the passengers by convivial crew members. Before disembarking for your island tour, the ship is besieged by dozens of dugout canoes. Chanting "money, money" the Cuna Indians dauntlessly dive for quarters thrown overboard or catch the coins in their attractive upturned umbrellas. This colorful and congenial cluster of Cunas encompasses all ages. Following your beach picnic and excursion on Porvenir Island, a "cayuko" (motorized dugout canoe) tour is available for insight into the indigenous environs. Each canoe accommodates a handful of passengers and travels past a radar installation tower manned by the US military during World War II. Further along you pass by the native cemetery where the deceased are interred in hammocks underground that are sealed but not filled in. Arriving at Nalunega Island (Home of the Red Snapper), one can converse and visit with the Cunas who domicile here in their modest thatched huts. There are photo opportunities aplenty as you peruse the innumerable molas (reverse appliqué embroidery) on display. These vividly colored, hand-stitched fabrics created by the locals are readily available for purchase at only a few of the islets in the 365-island archipelago. I realized that this enlightening native and canal encounter reinforced the tangible manifestation of the regional slogan: "The Land Divided, the World United". www.pancanal.com www.visitpanama.com
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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C u b a
The Rich History and Grandeur of Old Havana by Habeeb Salloum
T
o study the history of architecture in the Western Hemisphere one can find no better concentration of historic structures than La Habana Vieja (Old Havana). Founded in 1515, Old Havana never fails to impress its visitors with its rich history and incomparable New World grandeur. One of the earliest urban centres established by Europeans in the Western Hemisphere, this part of Havana is a lovingly restored monument to the city’s glorious past. The legacy of the Spanish Conquistadors who built the original city is a wonderful mix of colonial homes, charming plazas, museums and other places of historic interest. Today, some of Old Havana’s historic structures house a variety of bars
featuring live entertainment. Many others serve as art galleries, hotels, libraries, offices, shops, cafés and restaurants offering traditional Cuban fare and international cuisine.
thinks of Havana, is its timeworn original heart now throbbing with tourists and new life. To fully experience Old Havana in all its glory one must take a stroll through it.
Queen of the New World
Plaza de San Francisco de Asis
Known to the Conquistadors as 'Queen of the New World', Old Havana is a remnant from Cuba's colonial era – a jewel of Spanish colonial architecture. UNESCO has declared this 4 sq km (2.5 sq. mile) area of narrow streets, secluded squares, impressive fortresses, centuries-old churches and ancient palaces as a World Heritage Site. On a continual basis, its 907 colonial palaces and over 100 other monuments are being gradually restored. Travellers can easily see that this venerable part of the city is being returned to its once renowned architectural splendour.
We began our walking tour at the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, named after the bordering church and convent. This edifice, which was constructed in 1738, is one of the most important historic sites in Havana. An 11 km (6.8 miles) long hand-dug connecting aqueduct – partially uncovered for tourists to view it – once transported fresh water for the church and ships docked in the nearby port. The aqueduct ends at the Fuente de los Leones in the centre of the square. Decorated with four lions, it reminds one of the Lions’ Fountain in Granada’s Alhambra in Spain.
Today, Havana has greatly expanded beyond its historic sector. A city of 2.5 million, it is the largest urban centre in the Caribbean and home to one quarter of Cuba's more than 11 million inhabitants. Yet, what comes to mind when one
Opposite the church stands the impressive former stock market building. Bordering the square on its third side is the impressive Cruise Terminal and on its fourth side are 17th and 18th century houses, now all fully restored. Some travellers consider
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From Plaza Vieja, we walked along another narrow street with even more renovated historic homes, all featuring eye-catching Spanish colonial architecture. It appeared to me that Old Havana was being regenerated – a 16th century town living in the 21st century.
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Plaza de Armas After a five-minute walk, we reached Plaza de Armas - Havana’s oldest and most important square. It is lined on all sides by plants, marble benches and the period gas lamps that illuminate the square. The plaza also features lots of second-hand books for sale. By day and night, the square attracts hosts of people, many of them drawn there by its many popular restaurants and bars. The Plaza is also bordered by important historical structures. Across from the Baroque-styled Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, now housing the City Museum exhibiting antique furniture, stands El Templete, so named because it resembles a temple. In 1599, the city of Havana was founded on this very spot. Beside El Templete flourishes a ceiba tree, once considered sacred by Cuba’s aboriginal people. Next-door is the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. La Giraldilla, the symbol of Havana, caps one of its towers. this plaza, usually filled with tourists, as the most beautiful in Havana. After passing two ladies with flower baskets selling tourists kisses on the cheek for one dollar apiece, we turned off the square to walk up the narrow Calle Teniente Rey, which is lined with renovated period structures. “Oh! This reminds me of Spain!” An English woman passing me remarked. Apparently she did not know that Havana was once the Caribbean homeport of the Spanish fleet and one of the most important Spanish possessions in the New World.
Plaza Vieja A few minutes of walking brought us to Plaza Vieja, impressive in its historic mansions surrounding the square on all four sides. Most of them have been tastefully restored. Without a doubt, they are even more attractive today than they were when newly built in the 18th century. This plaza is unique in that, unlike in any other city, no religious edifice or important government building overlooks the square.
Plaza de la Cathedral Leaving Plaza de Armas, we walked to the Plaza de la Cathedral (Cathedral Square) – a very important tourist stop. The square, one of the most authentic and best preserved in Havana, is a charming and monumental place. It has been called the soul of Havana. The Cathedral has one of the most beautiful baroque façades in all of Latin America and is Havana’s historic site par excellence.
when Cuba was almost totally under American influence.
An Historic Legacy As I sat in the park to rest I thought about our half-day walking tour of Old Havana. It had been a fulfilling experience, exploring the structures of grandeur from days of yore, especially those that have been so beautifully restored. What impressed me this time in Havana were not only the restored structures but also the lower number of the tenacious sidewalk vendors, small-time thieves, beggars and pestering children, which only a few years ago were everywhere in the streets of the old city. The people appeared to be generally better off and the authorities have cleared the streets of most of those once aggravating annoyances. I came away with an impression that today’s Cuba now protects and celebrates its rich historic legacy – a legacy that visitors from the four corners of the globe can now readily explore and enjoy.
The plaza is also bordered by the Museo de Arte Colonial housed in an old mansion, and opposite the cathedral the historic Casa de los Condes de San Fernando de Peñalver. The square is always filled with tourists, many dining at the El Margues restaurant or shopping at the next-door handicraft market. We ended our tour at Central Park on the edge of the first major expansion of the original city centre. We rested in this oasis of greenery then explored the nearby impressive Gran Teatro de la Habana and El Capitolio, a replica of the US Capital in Washington that was built in the 1920s Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
Office National du Tourisme Tunisien 1155, Rue University, Suite 1014 Montreal , QC H3B 3A7 TĂŠl. : (514) 397-1182 Email : tunisinfo@qc.aira.com Site Web : www.tourismtunisia.com
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F o r a g i n g
f o r
w i l d
e d i b l e
s h
British C
Mother Nature’s finger food By Chris Higgins
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h e l l f i s h
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o n
e x t r e m e
t i d e
i n
Columbia S
ome 25,000 years ago, during the Pleistocene epoch, a massive glacier - one of the outlet glaciers of the Cordilleran Ice Sheet - advanced down the Strait of Georgia and graced the shores of eastern Vancouver Island with a soft, rich sweep of sand. The embayments stretching from Deep Bay to Parksville acted as nature’s sand traps, capturing the glacial outwash (The Quadra Sands), forming some of the widest beaches in Canada - a textbook breeding ground for our regions’ tasty shellfish.
A geological anomaly Vancouver Island’s shoreline isn’t full of delectable shellfish by chance. The rich supply of seafood is the result of a fascinating geological occurrence, directly relating to the formation of Quadra Sands. Dr. John Clauge, one of Canada’s leading authorities in Quaternary and Environmental Earth Sciences and a faculty member of Simon Fraser University, explains that “During the last Ice Age, a huge ice sheet advanced southeastward down the Strait of Georgia and, after it had melted, the resulting body of sand was eroded by the sea.” Clauge explains that the Quadra Sands gradually spread northwest, carried along the coast by the currents and waves. When the glacial material collided with the embayments along the coast, these acted as a group of vast, effective sand traps. As a result, the coastlines from Deep Bay to Parksville are home to some of the world’s softest, richest and most luxurious sands - the perfect breeding ground for oysters and clams and the ultimate menu for a wild, organic forage at low-tide. On May 31, June 28 and Nov. 22 the Earth and Moon align to give some of the year’s lowest tides, uncovering a variety of edible treasures.
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Arka
H i d d e n by Michael Morcos
G e m s
a n d
F r
nsas
F
or those who enjoy the back roads and corners of 37 America, hidden histories and real people, you will be completely satisfied travelling through the often overlooked and undiscovered gem of Southwestern Arkansas. We landed in Little Rock, and after a quick tour of the local historical monuments we had lunch in a local landmark, the Whole Hog Cafe. This stop was our first experience with the legendary Arkansan friendliness. We were a little overwhelmed as we were welcomed like long-lost relatives! Our first stay over was the Mountain Harbor Resort, a destination on its own, on Lake Ouachita. Being Arkansas’s largest lake, it has over 700 miles of shoreline and is completely surrounded by the Ouachita National Forest. The Chalet we were offered was magnificent and well equipped, with a full kitchen, spacious balconies facing the lake, and an inviting private Jacuzzi. Our Chalet had two floors with two lovely bedrooms containing beds that were comfy, contemporary and stylish. The furniture was so unique that we asked the front desk where to buy one like it! All the lodges have native stone gas-fired fireplaces and a charcoal grill on the deck, and free wireless to boot. It was a delight to spend time there – the staff even had swan towels placed on the pillows to welcome us!
i e n d l y
F o l k
Just outside the Chalet, there were plenty of low-key activities to enjoy. We found horseshoe pits, volleyball nets, and lots of room for kids to play. The first evening we enjoyed a sunset boat ride, leaving from the Mountain Harbor Resort on a private, luxurious two story houseboat for a cruise and dinner on the lake. The next day was filled with opportunities for canoeing, hiking, family fishing, scenic driving, and just plain relaxing-by-thelake. I took the occasion to find out if the fishing was as good as they said it was! It lived up to and beyond my expectations as the fishing is world-class with largemouth bass, walleye and stripers filling the lake. Many an article could be written based on the outstanding conditions and quality of the sport and flavour of the catches! The next morning was spent cruising along the Ouachita Mountains Scenic Drive. That title does little justice to the magnificence of the area. South of the Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Ouachitas is the Gulf Coast Plain, a remnant of the Gulf of Mexico which once extended to central Arkansas and formed after the mountains rose. The land is lower, flatter, and only slightly rolling, but filled with brilliant colours, sights and sounds. We returned and enjoyed a night cap in the lounge, then discovered just how soft the beds were! Lunches were extraordinary throughout our trip, and one that stood out the most was our stop at the American Artisan Restaurant. Gallery, store and restaurant come together in this amazing space. I enjoyed gazing at all the USA-made art, toys, games and odds and ends while enjoying their famous quiche and soup! We stopped for a coffee break at the Friendship House Gourmet Coffee Shop, a great local cafe and landmark popular with citizens and visitors alike. Salad bar and treats awaited us and it was nice to take a break in our busy schedule. Set-up to offer peace and warmth, they succeed on both counts! Whenever I can, I enjoy checking out the oddities and antiquities of the places I visit. This trip offered me a glimpse of the way things were as we visited several antique shops in the town of Mena. Abounding in great bargains and some strange artifacts, my favorite was the Cowboys and Indians Trading Post. Seeped in “old west” history, this store took my breath away...as well as a few of my dollars! Coupled with the Trading Post is the Lum 'n’ Abner Museum & Jot 'em Down Store. Lum 'n’ Abner was a famous duo from radio and TV who brought many tales of the area alive with the colorful characters created for their Lum 'N' Abner" Program. The Huddleston Store hosts the souvenir and gift shop and offers Lum 'N' Abner programs in addition to antiques and crafts. The smaller A.A. McKenzie Store that was built in 1904 is next door and displays the many pieces of Lum 'N' Abner history, preserving an important era in American life for all to explore.
Early the next morning, we were taken to the Wegner Crystal Mines, close by the resort. Quartz crystals from Wegner’s are renowned and the owner has ties with other mines from around the world which has helped him collect a vast array of amazing gemstones for sale. For patient visitors or some true family fun, you can spend a couple of hours hunting for quartz or finding diamonds and other precious gemstones in Richard Wegner’s Diamond Room. More adventurous folks can visit the Wegner Crystal Mines and Museum, where you will explore cavern and learn about the mining industry and its lasting mark on the State. We drove a little to the south and were welcomed at another wonderful locale – the DeGray Lake Resort State Park. DeGray Lake Resort State Park is Arkansas’s only resort state park and is famous for their crystal clear waters, acres of shoreline, the almost unlimited amount of outdoor adventures, as well as the high quality of an Arkansas State Park combined with resort class amenities. The park’s main building, the DeGray Lake Resort State Park Lodge, is situated on an island and offers guests spectacular views of the distant mountains and the lake itself. Most of our fondest memories started from this delightful resort. The first evening, we were treated to a boat tour of the lake, a true highlight of the trip due to the hilarious and knowledgeable park ranger who guided us through the tour. Our first full day here started with a visit to Historic Washington, a very interesting outdoor museum. During the Civil War, Washington was the Confederate capital of Arkansas after the Union Army occupied Little Rock. Today, this rich history is preserved at Historic Washington State Park. We followed that with a stop at the Arkansas Museum of Natural Resources in Smackover, which is filled with state-ofthe-art indoor exhibits and working equip-
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ment on display outside. In the Oil Field Park next to the museum, we explored the stories of this region’s natural resources along a trail with full-sized operating examples of vintage equipment used from the 1920s to the modern era. Another great feature is the recreation of the streets of a 1920s Arkansas boom town! Our trip into the past continued with a bit of antebellum history in Camden. We saw the 1847 McCollum-Chidester House, built by merchants who were selling to cotton plantation owners. A personal favorite was a visit to the town of El Dorado, where we had lunch at Favrays (named after the famous actress Fay Wray from the original King Kong movie). The town is charming with many old fashion shops, barbers, state buildings and cinemas – felt like we had stepped into a period film! Continuing down memory lane, there were many wonderful and very well kept old homes that are part of the American civil heritage trial. I was one of the people offered a morning at Crater of Diamonds State Park, a diamond mine. It is a 37-acre field where diamonds are often found close to the surface and is the only diamond-producing area in America open to the general public. The best part - if you don’t mind getting a little dirty and search for a diamond, you can keep it! And if you think that it is just a tourist trap, MANY diamonds have been found there, including the largest diamond ever found in North America—the Uncle Sam at 40.23 carats, discovered in 1924. Our biggest thrills were yet to come, though, and began when we were greeted by the wild crew at Rowdy Adventures. Offered many different options, I chose Rowdy Adventures’ Explore Tour, which is basically an ironman tour of thrills and excitement! Well, it certainly started with a BANG – a speedy, steep and thrilling zip line. Next, a ‘swamp buggy’ ride into the bottomlands
of the Little Missouri River, a muddy and messy excitement-fueled speed fest. There was no slowing down after that, as we hopped off the buggies and onto some ATVs for a 5-mile ride to the Rowdy Ranch. Once there, we mounted some magnificent horses for a ride to the Little Missouri for a cookout, and a well needed lunch. After eating, we had the choice of heading back the easy way or continuing the adventure. Seeing as I was to spend the next day in the spa, I chose to continue and ended the adventure with a fourhour paddle trip on the Little Missouri!
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The next morning, my sore body recovered some energy and flexibility in the Blue Heron Spa, a fully loaded paradise of relaxing features. It was a wonderful and delightful stay in the DeGray Lake Resort State Park Lodge. Our final stop on this great trip was a stay in the lodge on top of Mount Magazine, but on the way, we passed by Fort Smith to visit the Fort Smith Museum of History and Fort Smith National Historic Site. A surprise treat was a flyover the area – a great experience and a unique perspective! A side note - not far from Fort Smith is (or was) Fort Chaffee, where a famous event took place: “the haircut heard ‘round the world.” Now named the Barbershop Museum, it was where Elvis Presley got his first G.I. buzz cut! Once we got to Mount Magazine, we started with a relaxing moment on the veranda to enjoy the magnificent view overlooking the Petit Jean Valley and Blue Mountain Lake from Arkansas’ highest point. I was so tired from the days filled with adventure that I decided to forgo some great hikes to the park or a guided hike to waterfalls. A quiet end to a trip filled with great people and hidden gems!
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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W
hile the weather might be a bit unpredictable around the country, one thing is for sure: almost everyone is ready to break out their swimsuits, sunscreen and sandals. Pool season has officially kicked off in Las Vegas and MGM Resorts International offers a variety of options for each type of sun-worshipper. From guests who prefer a quiet, child-free environment to those searching for the hottest daytime dance party, there’s a pool experience fit for everybody.
Las Guests in search of a relaxing and luxurious escape…should reserve a premium chaise lounge chair or posh daybed at the intimate Cypress Pool at Bellagio. Loungers will marvel at the picturesque, child-free setting filled with cypress trees; enjoy the impeccable service complete with a personal Cypress host; and take advantage of chilled towels and Evian misters found within this pool garden oasis. For guests who want to take their leisure even further, they can schedule a poolside massage to ensure maximum relaxation.
Sun-worshippers looking for the ultimate pool party…won’t want to miss Las Vegas’ first ultra pool, WET REPUBLIC at MGM Grand. Recently expanded as part of a two-year remodel, this “it” dayclub serves up the ultimate daylife vibe produced by world-renowned DJs such as Calvin Harris, Steve Aoki and Tiësto. This season, the Sin City hot spot unveils six new VIP Bungalows along with three private plunge pools, providing sunsoaked partiers with an unrivaled daytime VIP experience.
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Fun Sun Sins & Pools
Vegas Travelers seeking a European-style pool experience…are invited to unwind at BARE Pool Lounge at The Mirage. This Euro sunbathing haven offers palm tree-enclosed seclusionfor guests ready to lose their inhibitions and tan lines. Guests can kick off an intimate weekend by reserving one of six VIP cabanas, eight daybeds or two luxury VIP dipping pools. Top it all off with BARE Brunch on Sundays where delectable food and thirst quenching drinks abound. The poolside pampering and unbeatable tropical setting make BARE the ideal choice for those seeking a beautiful yet unconventional retreat.
Visitors who want to take their bets outside…will be delighted by the Beachside Casino at Mandalay Bay Beach, just steps away from the crashing waves and 2,700 tons of real Californian sand of Vegas’ only beach. This climate-controlled, glass-fronted casino features blackjack, roulette and craps with fabulous views of the brilliant blue water in a casual yet upscale environment. Looking for a break from the tables? Guests can grab a blanket and listen to live music from artists such as Counting Crows, Gavin DeGraw, Ziggy Marley, REO Speedwagon and One Republic during the Beach’s Summer Concert Series.
Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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Ann
Arbor
M i c h i g a n
Down by Anne-Marie Macloughlin
on
Main
Street
45 A n d s o m e t i m e s e v e n n o w, when I’m feelin’ lonely and beat, I drift back in time, and I find my feet Down on Mainstreet
W
hen Bob Seger wrote his song Mainstreet, he was inspired by Ann Arbor, where he grew up. This pretty town is a unique blend of Midwestern rural and cosmopolitan urban. There are still lots of small family farms nearby, but it’s also a college town, home to the University of Michigan, one of the eight original ‘public Ivies’ . Cultural attractions, shopping, and fine dining make this the perfect getaway, only four hours drive from Toronto.
Food and Drink From the day of my arrival to the night before departure, food and drink of all kinds featured heavily in this four day trip. The Ann Arbor area is home to more than 300 restaurants, with new ventures opening on a regular basis. This is just one reason why Midwest Living recognized Ann Arbor as one of the best food towns in the Midwest and continues to be a top destination for food lovers from across the globe. Too many to mention in this article, the following is just a sample, so to speak, of the many cultures and tastes available to tempt the hungry traveler. Ayse’s Turkish Cafe (aysesturkishcafe.com). Ayse (pronounced EYE-shuh) Uras opened her café in 1993. She specializes in Turkish home cooking with lots of vegetarian options like lentil soup, yogurt soup, and vegetarian stews— as well as meat and seafood, and homemade desserts. Ayse writes out on a menu board what she’s cooking just before lunch and dinner, as she likes to cook according to what she can get from her butcher and the farmer’s market, basing her menu on what’s in season. But there’s always eggplant and good Turkish coffee. And for the adventurous, pickled beet juice. The Slurping Turtle (slurpingturtle.com) recently opened, and has already earned a name for itself amongst the lunch crowd. In Japan, slurping is expected; you’re supposed to “slurp the noodle.” Turtles are good luck; they mean long life. The crunchy Hamachi Tacos, Pork Belly Bao, and Duck Fat Fried Chicken are just some of the goodies on offer. Nom nom nom. Dinnertime can overwhelm with choices on Ann Arbor’s main street. At Logan (logan-restaurant.com) I was seduced by the NY strip steak, artfully placed on a bed of airy mashed potatoes and served with a ginger cream sauce and ponzu dressed carrot salad. Sommelier Kevin Hobart kept us well watered with a selection of apropos wine. Canadian World Traveller Summer / Fall 2014
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For the beer and cocktail crowd, Ann Arbor and surrounding areas are saturated (no pun intended) with various watering holes to suit all tastes. The Chelsea Alehouse Brewery (chelseaalehouse.com) is located in Chelsea’s historic Clocktower Complex. It opened its doors in December 2012 and features American and English style Ales, and a wide variety for the beer connoisseur. Basic pub grub and a wall of tankards owned by patrons to use whenever they visit, makes this a laid-back meeting spot. The Last Word (lastwordannarbor.com) is a speakeasy-style bar, with an array of deadly cocktails, including the eponymous namesake - Gin, green Chartreuse, Maraschino Liqueur and Fresh Lime. After a rich dinner and stroll along Main Street, where better to end the night. If a taste of Mexico is more your thing, check out Habana Cellar Lounge (cafehabanas.com), where you can enjoy a salty Marguerita in the candlelit basement bar, a cool refuge from the scorching summer heat, with its colourful Deco posters. Also, if tequila is your thing, Isalita (isalita.com) can arrange group tastings with a selection of Mexican snacks and the wisdom of Jeff Westerman, “The Tequila Guy”. After ‘sampling’ four or five different kinds, I was in my happy place.
Tours Ann Arbor has many half-day trips available for a variety of interests. I decided to brave the Huron River in a kayak, what looked like a leisurely way to spend an hour or so. Having paddled in a circle and wobbled precariously for five minutes, our guides at the Gallup-Argo Canoe Livery www.a2gov.org/government/communityservices/ParksRecreation/play/pages/canoeing.aspx) took pity on me and I was allowed to double up with an experienced paddler. The trip took about one and a half hours, and even with the slightly scary cascades (small ‘rapids’ that drop the kayaker down a
level to the next pool), the scenery and a lone heron following us made for a tranquil time out. For the artist in you, the Motawi Tile Works (motawi.com) will get the juices flowing. Founded by Nawal Motawi in 1992, as well as many original designs and custom orders, the Tileworks are partnered with The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation to create art tile that is adapted from his portfolio of work. Motawi has also translated several of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s famous glass designs. Given the opportunity to create one of my own, I realized how art is sometimes easier said than done. Still, it’s an original. The Ypsilanti Automotive Heritage Museum (ypsiautoheritage.org) is a carlover’s Nirvana. The museum is located in pretty Ypsilanti, which is also home to many delightful antique stores. The collection includes 30 vintage automobiles with a historical connection to Ypsilanti. A 1933 Hudson Terraplane K Series Coach is the oldest in the collection, up through a 1991 Chevrolet Caprice Police vehicle manufactured at Willow Run. Beautifully restored vehicles just beg for a photo opportunity.
Shopping For a small town, Ann Arbor has a wonderful shopping vibe, with nary a chain store in sight. Spend the afternoon browsing some of the town’s most unique shops, including Falling Water (fallingwatermi.com), known for their large and varied selection of greeting cards, beautiful jewelry, unique hand crafted and fair trade gifts from around the world, and friendly and helpful staff. Vault of Midnight (vaultofmidnight.com), billed as ‘Earth’s finest comic books and stuff since 1996”, for the geek in you. For a slice of the past with a cosmopolitan vibe, look no further than Ann Arbor, Main Street USA.
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