Cwt 45 fall 2014 issue

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Fall/Winter 2014-15

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M a d a g a s c a r

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The Azores * Kerala-India * New Zealand * Beautiful China Section

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M a r r a k e s h B a l i

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F e at u r i n g

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Welcome to Canadian World Traveller n this issue we start our worldwide journey with a visit to the authentic ancient cities in the province of Hunan, China.

We continue to explore several diverse and fascinating destinations in this ‘Beautiful China’. While in Asia we visit Uluwatu temple for a amazing Kecak play in Wonderful Bali, Indonesia and in India we cruise the backwaters of Kerala.

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Down-under we travel ‘New Zealand on a Budget’ and watch the unique wildlife of Madagascar.

In the Americas we participate in the country-style of Door County WI, relax and refresh in the seaside ‘Secrets’ resort in Huatulco, Mexico and take the off-road to Ecuador’s award-winning eco lodges.

In Europe we find ourselves in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean as we visit the often over-looked islands of The Azores, Portugal. Happy travels!

Published by

Canadian World Traveller 4055, Ste-Catherine Street W., Suite 158 Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8 Tel.: (514) 667-2293 www.canadianworldtraveller.com Email: info@canadianworldtraveller.com Publisher Michael Morcos Editor-in-chief Greg James Graphic Artist Al Cheong Advertising Leo Santini Marketing Tania Tassone Distribution Royce Dillon Contributors: Adam Scott Kennedy, Ruth Atherley, Margaret Deefholts, Susan Campbell A. M. Macloughlin, Habeeb Salloum, and Dave Cox. Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos: Phoenix, Hunan, China Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every effort to verify that the information provided in this publication is as accurate as possible. However, we accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.

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Explore

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Beautiful China China

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Mexico

H u n a n Pr o v e n c e ’ s A n c i e n t To w n s

Well-Planned Huatulco

The Azores

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Morocco

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In the middle of the Atlantic Ocean

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Splendour

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Marrakesh

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C r u i s i n g T h e B a c kwat e r s O f K e r a l a

B a l i New Zealand

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Ecuador’s

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On A Budget

AWARD-WINNING

Watching Wildlife in

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ECO

LODGES

Door County, Wisconsin 44

Madagascar Sun,

sea

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sand

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Midwest-style

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C h i n a

H u n a n Pr o v e n c e ’ s A n c i e n t To w n s

by Michael Morcos

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eople residing in the Hunan Province often consider themselves lucky, as many claim it’s one of the most beautiful areas of mainland China. With surrounding mountains, gorgeous waterways and bountiful acreage for vibrant agriculture, the richness of the land is hard to not fall in love with.

Ancient people of Miao, Dong, Yao and Tujia lived among the primeval forests before it became ruled by kings during the Zhou Dynasty. Several centuries later, many Han Chinese from the north became drawn to the potential of the land and cleared these forests for rice.

This continued for many years before it gained brief independence as Ma Chu. However, at the end of the 18th century

the Miao people had an uprising due to overcrowding from the Han and others, mostly because of the central location of the Yangzi River and the Imperial Highway. This was also a birthplace of more current Chinese rule and politics, as Chairman Mao Zedong was born in this province and later moved onto become one of the most famous individuals in modern history.

tion, the Miao people have a 9 beautifully simple and hearty style or dining that can easily be adapted by those who love fresh ingredients and slow cooked delicacies. Although they represent a small percentage of the population, the pride and color shines through though it’s cuisine and rituals.

Many dishes can be served as soup, ranging from sour flavors mixed with vegetables to concoctions including rice and spicy peppers complemented by oils and ginger.

Hongjiang ancient city Heading west brings those visiting the Hunan Province to the Hongjiang ancient city. Roughly 80,000 people call this home, living among traditional grey hoses that twist around ancient alleyways. Temple life is also ingrained in the everyday lifestyle.

Unsavory beginnings Although the town has always boasts charm, there are some other things afoot in its past. For instance, many people used to visit to partake in opiates or other acts of rebellion back in the day.

Presently, locals focus more on offering their traditional wares and highlighting better aspects of culture. However, guests interested can still see these types of dens on informational tours.

Rising above reputation

Nowadays, after several other skirmishes and a few battles, the people of the Hunan Province live very peacefully, living off the land and creating beautiful handicrafts for guests who visit. Cuisine, entertainment, music and traditional garb are all embraced, especially within the smaller towns that have ancient history.

The welcome Miao meal Heart and soul of many places in the world comes down to what they eat.

Being welcomed into the home of locals can be an incredible way to savor tradition and authenticity in a place like the Hunan Province of China. Not to men-

To begin conversations about such pasts and traditions, the old homes now used as museums and points of interest host performances for people who want to know more about the ancient city. Locals will don period costumes and depict life from centuries ago. Many have this as their full-time job and can be found in houses, along public squares, near pagodas and in front of temples. These intimate shows make for a memorable afternoon.

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Off the beaten path Less commercialization in the city of Hongjiang help preserve its authentic flair and allows for true exploration. Tours are readily available, but it’s safe to wander as well on the cobblestone streets. Artwork carved in stone is plentiful, depicting scene of ancestors in battle or even playing music. Some honor the Tao philosophy and other Chinese faiths. Doors also seems to be elaborate, covered in sheet metal and geometric designs made with large nails. Be wary though, as some of the spaces look public, such as the old mansions converted into smaller residential dwellings, but are really people’s current homes.

working is often the star of the show.

Although some residents have store fronts, many choose to hawk their wares and even create pieces right out on the street so patrons can have a glimpse at their handiwork.

A stroll through the gardens Much of life is lived outdoors in these ancient towns, as homes tend to be small and house many family members at once.

Also, these houses are built close to each other so any open space is highly valued and maintained. This is especially prevalent in the beautiful gardens found in Qianyang ancient city.

Qianyang ancient city A Phoenix rises Imagine having a hometown that can trace its roots back to 202 B.C. Many older minority populations have felt drawn to stay here due to the area’s strong ties to ancient history, making for an interesting melting pot of culture.

A beautiful past

Small city life is a marvel to embrace, but Hunan province offers a diverse array of destinations and things to see outside ancient history. While Phoenix is also considered a city with a rich past, this spot is a little livelier and full of color.

The streets mimic the nearby flowing river in design and layout. For two thousand years people have celebrated life along these walkways though their faith and families. This has been protected in various ways throughout history, but some of the ancient walls still stand left over from ancestors a millennia ago.

Also known as Fenghuang, it’s well known the Miao people have thrived in the area for more than 5,000 years of recorded history. In more modern past, literally masters and artists have chosen to reside there due to its natural beauty and mountainside views. Today, cultural minorities still make up the majority of the population for a truly unique China travel experience.

Chinese antiquing

Scenic views night and day

Superb craftsmanship is still highly valued in Qianyang ancient city. With background of forestry and bountiful lumber, wood-

Life revolves around a curvy river, as this destination is known of the only ancient city in China with a waterway like this.

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Boats lazily glide through the water from shop to shop, bringing both workers and tourists packed into the wooden vessels.

They are manned by skilled boaters that use a long wooden pole to navigate through nautical traffic. Homes, stores and temples are seemingly stacked along the shore, all boasting ancient Chinese architecture and phrases of well-wishing along their roofs.

Colorful and tasty wares It can be difficult to go hungry in a place like Phoenix, as there are plenty of tasty opportunities to sample local cuisine.

Many meals and snacks are enjoyed on the streets by sampling small bites from food carts. For a sweet ending, guests can pick up the specialty of the city – ginger candy. For something a little slower paced, the tea houses can be the perfect sanctuary from bustling city streets. Here tea is revered and done in a ceremonious way, often using loose leaves to create traditional hot brews that can help relax and even heal ailments.

River adventures Transportation along the river is the easiest way to go. Take a ride for lunch or to try out some souvenir shopping in a fun way. Sometimes the river can be crowded, but the excitement of this option over walking can be a thrill. If a route is chosen with pit stops along the way, some locals can be seen offering photographs with traditional, color garb. Tourists can pay a small fee for these photos and try on the outfits themselves. Many include beautiful silver jewelry and intricate headdresses used for celebrations and festivals.

Towering tradition Boating, strolling and simply admiring the views are all favorite pastimes in Phoenix, but travellers also tend to flock to the city’s mysterious and elaborate places of worship. Some are so old and surrounded in legend that a true history cannot be decided on – or is completely even lost in time.

Most of the architecture dates to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, spanning between 1644 and 1911. All of it is very different and unique, from expanses like the Wengchen Pavilion to the spooky tomb of Shen Congwen. Taking not of the sturdy fortresses used to protect Phoenix is also a thrill, including both the North Gate and South Great Wall.

The grand finale One of the newest additions to the ancient city of Phoenix is a large outdoor amphitheater. It has a roofed seating area so shows can be enjoyed year-round.

A popular choice for visitors to town is a performance called “Phoenix’s Timeless Love”, which is a grand display of the beauty and culture of this area of China.

Not only are there dozens of talented performers that take part in the spectacle, the set itself depicts surroundings in a complex, symbolic way. Artists and set designers have managed to re-create waterfalls, the river and other natural wonders right on stage.

Although landlocked, a trip to the Hunan Province of China can easily be an incredible look into the ancient livelihood still ringing true and alive within city walls.

Visit: www.hnt.gov.cn/english/main.htm

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The Azores In

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bout midway between the east coast of the United States and mainland Portugal sits the Azores, a collection of nine islands scattered over several hundred nautical miles. The closest point to Europe from the United States, the Azores were once the one-and-only stopping-off point for ocean voyagers traveling between the two continents. Today, the Azores are an autonomous region of Portugal, even though they are more than 800 miles west of Portugal’s mainland. A direct flight from Boston to the Azores takes about four hours – shorter than a flight to Las Vegas or Aruba.

Because these once uninhabited, remote islands were settled sporadically over a span of two centuries, their culture, dialect, cuisine and traditions vary considerably from island to island. Farming and fishing are key industries that support the Azorean economy. These traditional trades give the Azores an unspoiled, historic and authentically European feel that is becoming harder to find in other nearby loca-

middle tions. Visitors find plenty to see and do here, with upscale lodging and restaurants integrating with both the tiny, rural towns and the sometimes wild and lush landscapes that make up the islands.

The Azores are, without question, some of the most beautiful islands in the world… and yet they remain a closely-guarded secret by tourists in the know. Visitors are still discovering the Azores, and only 240,000 Azoreans live within the archipelago’s 868 square miles.

Although the Azoreans speak Portuguese, travelers can always find someone who speaks English and residents are always happy to help.

The Azores have recently earned several accolades for their exceptional travel and tourism experiences: •The National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations named the Azores as the world’s second most appealing islands destination

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•One of 10 Best Values, USA Today •Top 10 Places for Whale Watching, Sherman’s Travel •Top 10 Islands You Never Heard Of, Budget Travel •Two World Heritage Sites, designated by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) The Azores’ year-round mild climate gives the islands a fresh, springlike quality no matter when you visit. No matter what the weather back home, it’s always between 57 and 71 degrees F in the Azores.

Summer arrives in July and often stays until December. The lava-rich soils, fed by volcano eruptions of the past, nurture more than 1,200 species of plants, flowers and trees. The landscape varies from open fields lined with country roads to tiny towns perched on oceanfront cliffs.

The Azores are home to Portugal’s tallest mountain peak, the only tea plantations in

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Portugal he

Atlantic

Europe, dozens of crater lakes, miles of rocky coastlines, popular – and politically correct – bullfights, and some 6,000 pineapple plantations.

The islands were created by volcanic activity millions of years ago, giving them a landscape that is varied and often dramatic. Rocky cliffs, crater lakes, geysers, waterfalls and lava caves are all remnants of Mother Nature’s historical touch, and all make for excellent exploring opportunities for today’s visitor.

In the harbor towns, visitors can watch the day’s catch hauled in from the fishing boats, count the yachts that have sailed into port for the evening and stay in the manor homes and inns that may have once been the luxurious residences of wealthy sea-faring traders. The cities tell stories about the Azores’ prosperous history during the time of Portugal’s great explorations. Churches and town halls are built in varied styles including Gothic, Baroque, Manueline and classical archi-

tecture, evoking an old-world charm with new world functionality.

Visitors have the opportunity to learn about the 19th century history of whaling in the Azores, when expeditions from the Americas would stop to recruit crew-members and teach the locals the art of scrimshaw and whalebone-carving. While whaling is no longer an industry, whale watching opportunities are abundant. An adventurous visitor can see these marine giants up close and personal with the help of trained guides piloting fast, inflatable boats.

Ocean Western: Corvo and Flores.

The Azores offer visitors a number of innovative lodging options, with the option to choose from a number of inns and hotels that were once the palaces, manor homes and monasteries that made up the rich history of the region.

The Azores are also the perfect spot for the adventurer in you. Water sports, yachting, fishing and whale watching are widely available. Equally popular are horseback riding, cycling and hiking.

Getting to The Azores

The Azores sit at the very spot where the tectonic plates for Europe, Africa and North America meet. The nine islands of the archipelago are divided into three groups: Eastern: São Miguel and Santa Maria

Direct flights to the Azores from Boston, Oakland and Toronot are available only through Azores Express, a U.S.-based tour operator and member of the SATA Group.

For information and reservations, call Azores Express at 800-762-9995, or visit: www.sata.pt

Central: Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico and Faial

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C r u i s i n g T h e B a c kwat e r s O f K e r a l a

by Margaret Deefholts

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y son Glenn looks incredulous.

He whispers: “Rs.300 for an eight hour cruise? That’s less than CA$8.00. Is the boat safe?” I nod and whisper back. “It’s not a luxury boat – but yes, it’s perfectly safe.”

and locals waiting at a bus stop, we board our motor boat. “Not bad,” says Glenn as we settle into our seats on the covered upper deck. He fans himself with Southern Backwaters’ publicity pamphlet.

“Sticky morning though.”

Riyas Ahammed, who heads up Southern Backwaters company, is writing up our tickets. He hands them to me with a smile. “Hurry,” he urges. “The boat is leaving soon.”

The upper deck rapidly fills up. The double-decker vessel seats 80 people, and most of them are foreigners: young backpackers, German, Italian and Scandinavian tourists, several Brits and Aussies. We seem to be the only Canadians.

We are in the small town of Kollam on the west coast of India, and are all set to sail through the fabled Kerala backwaters—an intricate network of waterways extending from Kollam all the way to the port city of Kochi (Cochin). This day trip will take us half-way up the coast as far as Alleppey.

Scrambling our way past souvenir stalls

The engine roars into life and as we pull away to midstream, it settles into a steady growl. A light, breeze ruffles my hair, and Glenn exchanges his “fan” for binoculars.

The waterway, bordered by dense tropical vegetation, is broad at first but, as I recall

from an earlier trip on a similar boat, we soon veer off into narrow winding inlets.

The view is soothing: waves stippled by sunlight, palm-fringed shores, and fishing nets slung from cantilevered masts which rear like pterodactyl skeletons against a steel-blue sky.

Sheltered within coconut palm groves, little village settlements are alive with activity: women slap their laundry on stones at the water’s edge and men cycle along narrow winding roads with baskets of bananas perched on their back-carriers. Naked urchins splash in the shallows, bobbing up and down, waving and shouting, “Hullo!

Do you have pens? Chocolate?” Fishing nets are spread out to dry along the foreshore, and small whitewashed churches gleam in the sun. We chug past elaborate rattan houseboats, where passengers

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snootily deign to acknowledge us as they loll on their decks sipping shandies or iced coconut shakes.

fish, still wriggling, its fins flashing silver in the sunlight. We clap and give him a thumbs up.

Although the scenery along the backwaters is breathtaking, this part of Kerala’s coast is more than just a tourist tropical paradise. The canals, play an intrinsic part in the lives of those who live along its banks serving as transport for both people and goods. We pass a prim sari-clad matron sitting on a wooden bench in a dug-out canoe, looking for all the world like a stately maharani. Crowded municipal ferries putter self-importantly past us. Other barges, rusty old derelicts, carry cattle, bulging jute gunny sacks and baskets of coconuts. Fishermen, bare-bodied except for lungis (cotton loin-cloths) knotted around their waists, beam and wave. One of them hoists his prize catch—a large

The boat pulls up to a jetty and we dismount for lunch. The restaurant is a large airy room with checked purple tablecloths and a simple buffet: fat-grained boiled white rice, three types of curried vegetables and a tray of bananas for dessert. All you can eat for just a little more than a dollar. Later we stop alongside the bank, for a tea break. Fifty cents buys sweet milky Indian chai and a selection of snacks: aloo bondas (deep-fried spicy potatoes wrapped in chick-pea flour), cones of roasted peanuts or coconut based sweetmeats.

As the warm, lazy hours slip by, we cruise along channels where green reflections of

palm fronds and creepers tremble the waters. Water hyacinths lie like thick carpets on the canal’s surface—dense enough to choke the channels in some spots. We slow down to a wary putter. At a village jetty, bright yellow boats unload shimmering loads of fish, and around a bend, a festive procession, accompanied by a drum and flute, heads along an embankment.

By late afternoon, the scenery changes to broad paddy fields stretching to the horizon. Along a beaten-earth track edging the water school kids cycle homewards, and farmers carrying sheaves of hay return to their villages. Cooking fires begin to flicker like fireflies between the trees.

The evening sunlight lays a mellow glow over everything and dusk falls gently on the tranquil waters. Alleppey’s jetty looms and we disembark. Reluctantly.

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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New Zealand On A Budget

by Ruth Atherley

Photo: Camilla Stoddart

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ith incredible natural beauty, unique wildlife, fabulous food and wine, and fascinating Maori culture, visiting New Zealand is often considered a bucket list trip. However, a dream vacation doesn’t have to cost an arm and a leg – there are many ways to see the country on a budget.

New Zealand’s seasons are the reverse of Canada’s. That means that their busy summer season (December to February) is smack-dab in the middle of our winter and that’s when the cost of flights is higher. By booking your flight outside of that time frame – even by a few weeks or a month – you can significantly reduce the cost of your airfare and still enjoy some excellent weather.

While New Zealand has exceptional five star lodges, you can also find good, basic accommodation that fits a smaller budget.

Along many of the major tourist routes, there are reasonably priced motels and motor lodges – and most include breakfast in the price. Hostels are always an option – and are a great place to meet fellow travellers. For those inclined to hiking (Kiwis call it “tramping”), there are campsites and a network of huts that are operated by the Department of Conservation, and passes to stay in them are available for a reasonable cost per night. For those looking for something unique, Maui rents campervans and offers the opportunity to stay in one of five vineyards throughout the country. As a part of the package, you get a gourmet hamper (a picnic basket) with a bottle of wine and the chance to meet the vintner. New Zealand also has “freedom camping” where you can park your motorhome or set up your tent and stay at no charge.

There are a few rules you must abide by, like staying on public property, using a public toilet, and picking up your rubbish, but they are straightforward and easy to follow.

New Zealand has an international 17 reputation for gourmet food and excellent wine, but you don’t need to run up a large bill in an upscale restaurant to eat and drink well. Throughout the country, there are small, family-run bakeries and cafés that serve some iconic New Zealand dishes like meat pies, lamingtons, caramel slices and sausage rolls. At many of the cafés, you can also purchase a reasonably priced, excellent glass of locally made wine. In Queenstown, on the South Island, budget-minded travellers who are really hungry can head to the popular Fergburger for one of their delicious and huge burgers.

New Zealand offers many free attractions. Most national parks are free to visit, as well as many museums, including New Zealand’s national museum Te Papa. If you are into history, the entire city of Napier is basically a museum in which you can walk around. It was hit by an earthquake in 1931 and then subsequent fires destroyed most of the town. Today, walking around the downtown core is like a time machine to the 1930s. Napier has the largest collection of Art Deco buildings in the Southern Hemisphere.

If you take the time to speak with some of the locals in the places you visit, you can find out about all of the amazing, budgetfriendly activities and places that New Zealand has to offer. And don’t be surprised if the Kiwi you speak with offers to buy you a local beer or a glass of New Zealand wine; it’s just their way of making your trip extra special – at no charge.

Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.ca) has direct non-stop flights from Vancouver to Auckland and offers flights from many other North American cities. For more information about New Zealand, please visit: www.NewZealand.com.

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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Watching Wildlife in

Madagascar

by Adam Scott Kennedy

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n 2013, my wife Vicki and I were fortunate to lead a dedicated wildlife holiday to the Indian Ocean ‘island’ of Madagascar. A year later, I am still unsure how I feel about the country that I had dreamed of visiting since reading Gerald Durrell’s “The Aye-Aye and I” as a child. It is a place of enormous contrasts, the gravity of which I’ll endeavour to encapsulate here.

Perhaps I should first explain the use of parentheses over the word ‘island’?

Although it is typically referred to as an

African island, the landmass is absolutely huge and many, academics and laymen alike, argue that it should in fact be classed as a continent, certainly from geological and ecological perspectives at the very least. During her university studies, Vicki had spent an entire year on the island, working as a volunteer on various environmental projects and, until my own visit, I had always been surprised at how little of the island she had seen during her twelve months there but now I know why.

It takes forever to get anywhere, not least to the island/ continent itself!

We were there for the wildlife and we did indeed encounter some truly spectacular creatures in some amazing places. Where good habitat remains, the experience is akin to walking within a very large zoo enclosure as you know the target species is ‘in there somewhere’ and that you just have to look. The experienced local guides know their stuff and rarely fail to deliver on your expectations. On the top of most naturalists’ lists are the lemurs and in some places these are easy to find, watch and enjoy. Over 100 species of these primates are now recognised and

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they vary in size from the tiny Mouse Lemurs (30g of cuteness fitting perfectly in the palm of your hand) to the solid-looking Indri which weighs in at a hefty 9kg.

The diversity is a reflection of the different habitats that exist on Madagascar, from lush tropical rainforests to dry spiny forests and Baobab-dotted deserts. We encountered 23 species on our visit and our favourite was the Verreaux’s Sifaka, seen jump-dancing at Berenty.

The birdlife is equally remarkable.

Although we encountered 190 species over the course of 25 days (I’m more used to seeing that total in a single day in Kenya!), the proportion of endemic species is very high and entire bird families occur that are found nowhere else on Earth, such as Vanga, Coua, Asity, Mesite, Ground-Roller and Tetraka.

The reptiles present a really interesting challenge because many are so difficult to observe without help from a local expert.

Madagascar is the hub of chameleon diversity and home to the largest and smallest species known to exist, from 15mm Brookesia species (yes that is fully grown!) to the 70cm Parson’s Chameleon, but not even the big ones are easy to find. We observed 24 reptile species, including 9 chameleons, and the highlight was when our guide pointed out a Satanic Leaf-tailed Gecko to the group; it was so amazingly camouflaged that even when the guide put his laser pen on the animal at a range of less than 1m, half of our group could still not make out what they were looking at! Although numerous snakes exist, there are no venomous species on the island.

The following four sites are essential to a visitors’ itinerary and it would be a great shame to omit even one from any wildlife-based tour of Madagascar.

•Perinet-Mantadia •Ranomafana •Ankarafantsika •Berenty

All are home to a fantastic diversity of birds, lemurs and reptiles and offer great opportunities for photography. Coupled with the warmth and friendliness of the Malagasy people, it might be difficult to comprehend at this point how there could possibly be a downside.

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Having travelled to over 35 countries in search of wildlife, I was genuinely shocked and saddened at how little native habitat remains in Madagascar.

Commuting from one destination to another, we travelled across the country for many hours, sometimes entire days without seeing so much as lush lake or a community forest where birds could be watched. Vast quantities of the island have been clear-felled of native trees and, typically, all that remains is parched grassland that cannot even support livestock. Poverty, high population growth and unsustainable demand for land and natural resources are not uncommon across the developing world but in Madagascar, the scale is truly staggering.

Less visible is the lack of wildlife protection in the few remaining areas where habitat exists and the decimation of lemur populations for the bushmeat trade continues.

Experienced eco-tourists may also be surprised at how wildlife guiding is carried out here. It is far more aggressive than what I have experienced anywhere and on several occasions I was obliged to stop the local guides from ‘chasing down’ very rare birds and lemurs as the experience was troubling most of our party, such was the intensity to deliver the species and to get the tip. The concept of being considerate towards the animal was lost on quite a few of our guides, despite our attempts to educate along the way.

In summary, the truth is that amazing wildlife of Madagascar is amongst the most threatened anywhere in the world and if you’re dreaming of such an adventure, I would strongly advise that you do so sooner rather than later … while flocks last!

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

Beautiful

China

Join us as we Explore The Worldly Cities of

Beijing & Dalian The Magnificent Provinces of

Shanxi, Guangdong, Henan, Qinghai and the Legendary Silk Road

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hanxi province is one of the birthplaces of the Chinese people with a long history, ancient civilization and a large amount of historical and cultural heritage. Chinese creation myths began here, and there is evidence of Stone Age tools and relics.

Today, the province is more renowned for its food and carving, and our visit was filled with both!

We were first introduced to the ‘King of Noodles’, Datong Sliced Noodles are known throughout China as the best ever – for noodle lovers, these sliced noodles resemble willow tree leaves and are smooth and delicious!

The area also produces a couple of wonderful wines, Xinghuacun Fen Wine, also called the old Fen wine, and Zhuyeqing wine. Xinghuacun wine is clear, sweet and scented and famous for its color, flavor and taste. Fen wine is a model of a light, scented wine, and its history can be traced back to as early as 1400 years ago when the name “Fenqing” wine first appeared. Zhuyeqing is golden and transparent with a hint of green and offers a unique scent with a sweet taste and a little bitterness which lingers on your tongue for a long time.

We then were introduced to Gaoping “Ten Big Bowls”. This filling meal consists of ten rather unique dishes: walnut meat, meat ball soup, Chuan meat soup, egg soup, swan eggs, tender rice and bean soup and a couple more. Each dish has a very special taste and consists of both vegetables and meat, including the distinctive and delicious vegetarian dish of swan eggs. At the end of the meal, we enjoyed a delicious sweet dessert. The Ten Big Bowls are often found in banquets for weddings, funerals, baby showers, housewarmings and more.

Datong is well known for coal carving, as the material is found in abundance. The irony is not lost, as coal can be both a harsh pollutant and a beautiful and impressive form of art----coal carving. Coal carving from Datong is unique with clear lines and delicate features.

Exquisite works of coal have been created in the forms of famous Chinese personalities, and carvings as vivid as black and white photos.

Lancheng Town of Lan County in Shanxi is the homeland of flour

S h a n x i

sculpture. Yes – FLOUR sculpture! Well-known throughout the country, the local artisans are notorious for their perfection. Flour sculpting requires hours of digilence and patience; materials have to be chosen very cautiously and the many steps in production - squeezing, cutting, twisting, pressing, spreading, folding, embedding, arranging, compressing, painting and color matching needs a great deal of attention!

The final pieces are bought as symbols of prosperity, longevity, fortune and happiness.

But what most impressed me were the intricate and magnificent Taiyuan Jade Carvings. This art form has a long history and the technique is both delicate and elegant while working these high-quality stones.

Not to be missed is the ancient City of Pingyao which is located central Shanxi. Known for its history and culture, it was added to the world heritage list by the UNESCO in 1997. The world heritage committee recognises it as the most intact and best-preserved ancient county in China and an outstanding example of the cities of Han ethnic group during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The precious historical sites and cultural relics to be found here are mostly well preserved, including the city walls, the Chenghuang Temple and Rishengchang money exchange.

This area of China is a gourmets dream and an Artists paradise!

Visit: sxta.com.cn/en/ sxta.com.cn/fr

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P r o v i n c e

o f

H

istory buffs rejoice! The name of the province Henan comes from its geographic location - Henan means 'the south of the river', as the province lies south of China's Yellow River.

It covers an area of over 160,000 square kilometers. Henan is the birthplace of the Chinese nation, the cradle of China's 5000-year-long civilization and the place of origin of many Chinese family names as well.

Of all areas in China, Henan is one of the few provinces that have actively collected and protected more historical relics than in any other part of the country.

Our first stop was in Kaifeng, one of the ancient capitals, where we visited the Iron Pagoda (Tie Ta) of the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127).

Tie Ta offers a pleasant stroll through gardens with statues, a temple and along a small river. The pagoda itself is an 1000 year old structure that was built around 900 AD. Visitors can climb to the top and get a great view across Henan University campus and the city of Kaifeng.

In the city of Anyang we found the Shang Dynasty ruins, which were an important part of human cultural and historic heritage. The Shang Dynasty Ruins, also known as the 'Yin Ruins', are famous because of the unique style of the large palace and its grand mausoleums, in which emperors of the Shang Dynasty are buried. Visiting these ruins a visitor can feel the true weight of the History of China, amazing and inspiring!

Travelling through the province, we visited the Songshan Mountain that lie to the southwest of Zhengzhou. It is one of the most famous moun-

H e n a n

tains in China because of the rugged beauty of its peaks and the Bonsai-like appearance of the beautiful old trees that are found there.

Songshan Mountain also proved to be the favorite part of my trip, a visit to the Shaolin Temple, the most famous Buddhist temple in China.

It is reputed to be 'the Number One Temple under Heaven' and was added to UNESCO's World Cultural & Natural Heritage List in 2010. It is the cradle of Chinese Zen Buddhism and Shaolin Martial Arts like Shaolin Cudgel. The Shaolin Temple embraces many exciting attractions, including the Hall of Heavenly Kings (Tianwangdian), the Mahavira Hall (Daxiongbaodian), the Pagoda Forest, the Dharma Cave and the Martial Art Training Center as well as a virtual guide for visitors. The scenery is also spectacular as there are vivacious wild flowers and pine forests filled with birds singing - a beautiful scene full of life and vitality is offered to visitors.

No trip to Henan would be complete without a visit to the Longmen Grottos.

As one of the three most famous treasures houses of stone sculptures in China, Longmen Grottos in Luoyang was listed as the world cultural heritage by the UNESCO in 2000. The grottos were started around 495 A.D., when Emperor Xiaowen of the Northern Wei Dynasty moved the capital to Luoyang, and were continuously built throughout the periods of the Eastern Wei Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. The scenery measures 1,000 meters from north to south, where there are over 2,000 niches, 40 pagodas, 3,600 steles and over 100,000 statues.

The entire grottos are divided into stree sections, and niches of various sized are carved on the mountainsides. Housed in the niches are figurines varying in expressions and gestures, the largest surpassing ten meters in height while the smallest only several centimeters.

History, culture and ceremony come together perfectly in this lovely Chinese province.

Visit: en.hnta.cn/

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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P r o v i n c e

o f

G u a n g d o n g

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n the province of Guangdong, food is a centerpiece of life, and despite its vibrant sight-seeing, travelers usually come to Guangdong to shop and eat, but there is some sight-seeing to be done as well!

Guangdong is considered the birthplace of what westerners call 'Chinese food' (Cantonese food). Here you can grab the authentic taste of sweet & sour pork, wonton soup and dim-sum. The food is plentiful, delicious and inexpensive, and few travelers can leave this city hungry!

Food isn’t the only inexpensive item found in Guangzhou. There are countless huge markets specializing in almost any made-in-China products, including Chinese tea, herbs, clothes, watches, electronics and toys.

The province does have cultural areas that reflect the modern and the past. In 2007, UNESCO named the Kaiping Diaolou and Villages in China as a World Heritage Site, due to its fusion of Chinese and Western structures and decorations. Many unique locales await us.

A Xiguan Residence is an example of the traditional Cantonese architecture from the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic Era. These houses can be found in throughout the city, including one of the most famous located at 18 Baoyuan North Street. The luxury within these homes makes it obvious to see how these lovely homes were occupied by the upper class in the olden days.

We later visited the Chen Clan Academy, which is a magnificently preserved example of 19th century architecture. It was the ancestral shrine of a wealthy family and now is a museum with many items and articles including ivory sculptures and artistic statues.

We continued this unique adventure by visiting Canton Tower. The tallest structure in China, it has an impressive observation deck fea-

turing various restaurants, a 4-D theater and other entertainment venues within. A really exceptional and entertaining adventure, but a little dizzying as well!

Our next stop was the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall which is dedicated to the founder of the Republic of China and local hero Dr. Sun Yat-Sen. It was constructed in 1931 and built on the original site of Sun Yat-sen's presidential office on Yuexiu Hill. The historical tour around the Hall and grounds was informative and enlightening.

A visit to Shamian Island introduces outlanders to the influence that the British and French have had on China. The buildings and streets of this former British and French concession have been beautifully renovated, and the uniqueness of the blend has created an oasis of tranquility in an otherwise bustling and hectic city!

Walking through the streets is a trip down history, and one of the most fascinating buildings we ran across was Our Lady of Lourdes Chapel. The architecture reflects the colonial era of 19th Century, and it has a unique atmosphere.

As our trip drew to a close, we enjoyed a couple of great meals and reflected on this wonderful province!

Visit: foreign.visitgd.com/Eng/index.html

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Province of

D

ue to its elevation, this province of China is well known for its natural beauty and alpine attractions. There are many lakes, mountains and grasslands here, and the area is sparsely populated. Known for its hospitality, many tourists from the hotter climes of Southern and Eastern China travel here, as July and August are quite mild and comfortable, making the province an ideal summer retreat.

Our visit centered on the natural wonders of Qinghai, and the province boasts one of China’s largest animal reserves. We were surrounded by snow-covered mountains, icy peaks, the Gobi desert, vast pastures and over 500 species of wild animals. On this day we were lucky enough to see wild camels, chiru, white-lipped deer, black storks and many yaks.

We then moved on to Ox-Heart Mountain (dubbed "the Chinese mini-Alps") for some serious hiking. The views were outstanding and trails varied from easy to extreme – a climber’s dream!

Qinghai Lake is another tourist attraction we visited. It is the largest saltwater lake in China located on the Tibetan Plateau, "Roof of the World" and lies 3,600m above sea level. The surrounding area is made up of rolling grasslands and populated by ethnic Tibetans.

Winding our way to lower altitudes and heading towards the Qinghai Lakes, we passed through the massive – and I mean MASSIVE - Qinghai grasslands. The scenery is filled with Tibetan yak

Qinghai

and sheep herders and the grasslands stretch as far as the eye can see. At Qinghai Lake, the sunrise is a treat, as it rises directly out of the lake. The area has numerous bike trails and we took full advantage, enjoying the wonderful views and having a picnic by the shore.

Situated in the central southern part of the Qaidam Basion, the Qarhan Salt Lake occupies 5,856 square kilometers, the largest salt lake in China and the second largest in the world only after the Uyuni Salt Lake. Winds and sunlight in the desert have created a thick and hard crystalized salt crust on the lake. The Qinghai-Tibet Highway and Railway run above the salt crust，forming a magnificent scene of motor vehicles running beside blue water in the salt lake. The world-renowned Wanzhang Salt Bridge spanning the lake was built with salt without any piers or rails. It is broad and smooth like a silk belt that divides the lake into two parts.

After a few more hours of driving, we got to Gui De, which is at the origin of the Yellow River. A boat trip down the turquoise-green hued river was relaxing and exhilarating at the same time, and I was reminded of the US's Colorado River!

As we were winding down our tour, we stopped at the Kumbum Monastery (Ta’ersi). This Tibetan temple has been practicing for over 400 years, and the weight of time and prayer is almost palpable.

Finally, we arrived back in Xining, and enjoyed a couple of bowls of niangpi , a specialty of the area. A great set of activities among the natural wonders of this magnificent Chinese Province!

Visit: www.qhly.gov.cn/en/

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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D a l i a n

S

ports, tourism, culture and trade all come together in this “bright northern pearl", a rapidly expanding city hailed as Northeast Asia’s International Shipping Centre and the "Hong Kong of the North."

Travelling through this bustling city, its beauty is undeniable and it is renowned for its ‘Square Culture’, as there are more than eighty squares in Dalian, the most well-known being Xinghai Square, the largest square in Asia. The square covers a total area of 45,000 square meters and the name of the square means "the Sea of Stars" in Chinese. It refers to the shape and design of the center of the square, which looks like a star, with two white marble pillars and 9 large wings. The square was built to honor Hong Kong's return to China in 1997 and represents the "New Spirit of Dalian". Quite striking and unique!

We continued by driving on Dalian city’s south shore along Binhai Road. Pleasant and aimed at tourists, the road was built in 1970s, and in the 1980s it became a renowned scenic spot. Binhai Road is 32 kilometers long, running through 12 tourist areas along the coastline, including well-groomed golf clubs and sandy beaches.

We stopped at Xinghai Bay Beach, China's largest man-made beach (45,000 cubic meters of sand) formally opened in 1997. This beach and sports center has a Kilometer of beaches and aside fromdes swimming and sun tanning, tourists can also walk along its three wharves filled with shops and restaurants.

years of 1894 and 1945, including images, photographs, stone tablets and items.

Further along, the history lesson continued at the East Crest Mountain Jiguanshan Russo-Japanese War sites located in the northeast of Dalian City. In 1904, this was an important battlefield of the eastern line of defense in the Russo-Japanese War. The tour is quite in depth, with visits to the East Crest Mountain North fortress, Erlongshan fortress, and the Lookout Fort ruins.

Our final stop was at the Olympic Plaza, both impressive and ostentatious. There is a Wal-Mart Super Center underneath the Olympic Rings and you can find enough fried chicken, glazed donuts and barbecue ribs for a Fourth of July Celebration!

There are sporting good stores under the stadiums edge and the entire area is surrounded with lush grass, flowers, fountains and music. A visitor’s paradise, the Olympic Square, whose foundation was laid by Mr. Samaranch, president of the International Olympic Committee, in September 1998, is imposing and striking. The Olympic Rings, symbolizing the Olympic spirit, stand in the north part of the 42,000-square-meter public square. For soccer fans, a giant screen shows live football matches during football season, attracting numerous local fans who crowd the square.

Of all our travels through China, I think that the clearest example of tourist friendly locations is Dalian!

Visit: en.visitdl.com/Web/ We then proceeded to visit the historical Japanese-Russian Prison Site located in Jiguanshan (Cockscomb Mountain) in a relatively remote area of Dalian. The prison was started when the Russians were occupying in 1902. The old prison site had also been a Russian cavalry garrison and field hospital.

After the Japanese-Russian War, the Japanese occupied Dalian and expanded the original Russian prison architecture. There were about 700 people executed in the prison between 1942 and 1945. Since the 1970s, the Japanese-Russian Prison Site Museum has collected about 200 items dated between the

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B e i j i n g

I

n literature, poems and old-time films, it is known as Peking! But today, it is Beijing, the capital of the People's Republic of China.

It is one of the most populous cities in the world and a metropolis located in northern China.

Culture, culture everywhere! There are so many choices to make, so planning your trip is essential.

Ours began with a trip into antiquity and a visit to the Ming tombs.

Out of 16 emperors who ruled China during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), 13 are entombed at the southern foot of Tianshou Shan (the Chinese name Shisan Ling, the 13 Tombs). The grounds are charming and include the Sacred Way, also known as Changling Sacred Way, which leads to the Changling Tomb (built in 1409) of the third Emperor of the Ming Dynasty, Emperor Zhu Di and his Empress Xu lie. It is the largest, most ornate and the best preserved of the thirteen tombs, and has three courtyards in the front and a “Treasure City” around the back. A fascinating trip through China’s past.

We moved on to another monument from Chinese history, the Forbidden City. They say that any tour of Beijing would be incomplete without a visit to the Forbidden City and upon seeing it you understand why. Starting with entering through Tian'anmen, the Gate of Heavenly Peace, the opulence is astounding. After walking across a large, brick-paved square, you will reach the main entrance to the Palace, Wumen (the Meridian Gate). Once within, the outer court is made up of three main buildings, the Taihedian (Hall of Supreme

Harmony), Zhonghedian (Hall of Central Harmony) and the Baohedian (Hall of Preserving Harmony), all areas used by the emperors of old who would attended grand ceremonies, host banquets or conduct state affairs. There are several side gardens and interesting halls to explore. The inner court holds another set of three halls, the Palace of Heavenly Court , Hall of Union, and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility. Smaller than the Outer Court halls, the three halls of the Inner Court were the official residences of the Emperor and the Empress. The tapestries, furniture and decorations were evidence of the riches held by Chinese emperors. It was an immense full day of discovery and a wonderful way to become immersed into China’s past.

And what visit would be complete without a stop to marvel at the World Wonder that is the Great Wall!

Listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO in 1987, the Great Wall stretches almost 9000 kilometers from east to west. Resembling a gigantic dragon, the Great Wall twists up and down across deserts, grasslands, mountains and plateaus. Over 2000 years old, some sections have become ruins or have been reclaimed by nature, but it is still one of the most fascinating attractions in the world due to its architectural grandeur and historical significance. Being so immense, most travelers must choose their section to discover, we picked the Huanghuacheng Section and were pleasantly surprised about how it was an ideal place to see the Great Wall.

A little off the beaten track, we were able to enjoy all of the beauty of the Wall with none of the crazy crowds that are found elsewhere along its remarkable length. It also happens to be only place where you can see the Wall cross a body of water. We went to one of the restaurants nearby after our hike on the wall and were impressed at both the quality and price of the food. Going to see this magnificent human achievement took up almost a whole day, but it was worth every minute.

Visit: english.visitbeijing.com.cn/ french.visitbeijing.com.cn/

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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The Silk Road

T

he Silk Road, or Silk Route, is a series of trade and cultural routes that allowed interaction of the regions of the Asian continent connecting the West and East by linking traders, merchants, pilgrims, monks, soldiers, nomads, and urban dwellers from China and India to the Mediterranean Sea !

The Silk Road extends 4,000 miles (6,437 kilometres) and derives its name from the lucrative trade in Chinese silk beginning during the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD). So lucrative in fact, that the Chinese extended the Great Wall of China to ensure the protection of the trade route. Many cultures have used and influenced the Silk Road and its features, including the Persians, Romans, Armenians, Indians, and Bactrians, and even Arab traders became prominent in latter centuries.

On our Silk Road tour we reach the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, also known as 1000-Buddha cave. This World Cultural Heritage site is famous for its countless beautiful Buddha sculptures and Frescos.

The Sounding Sand Dunes & Crescent Moon Spring is another mustsee in Dunhuang. This place is quite literally an oasis in the desert. The Sounding Sand Dunes are famous for the sounds that wind makes when blowing over the dunes. The spring’s name derives from the crescent moon shape the small pool of spring water has taken

China

between two large sand dunes. Although the area is very arid, the pool doesn't dry up.

From Dunhuang we entered Xinjiang, the biggest autonomous region in China. Xinjiang has the second biggest desert in the world, Taklamakan, which sets the tone of the Silk Road. But Xinjiang is far beyond desert. It has the Tianshan Mountain and the breathtaking natural scenery along Kanas Lake. It also has the biggest wind power plant in Asia, ruins of the ancient civilizations, and the Grand Canyon where locals call the “ghost town” (it sounds like ghost crying when the sound of wind echoes in the valley). Two of the most visited cities in Xinjiang are Ürümqi and Turpan.

A good Silk Road tour can usually be experienced within two weeks but can easily be extend to one month if central Asia and Europe portions are added. The itinerary may vary depending on the season and method of travel.

The few stops we could make along the Silk Road were just a sampling and our appetite for discovering more is growing – we will return!

Visit: www.travelchina.gov.cn/tirms/front/en_US/routes.html

China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made “Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the background means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which shows a flag guiding a couple around. The blue color represents the sky, delivering China tourism’s concepts vitality, harmony and green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese civilization that has been going on for thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the “Beautiful China” logo represents China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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M e x i c o Well-Planned Huatulco

by Susan Campbell

Pristine, primal attractions coupled with world class creature comforts prove that nature and luxury can coexist in harmony.

I am always up for new adventures, so I was delighted to explore Huatulco even though I had no idea where it was, nor even how to pronounce it properly. (It's pronounced “wah-tool-co” and it's on the Pacific Ocean below the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountain range located in the Mexican state of Oaxaca-pronounced “wah-ha-ka”.) But as we began our

descent into what looked like the land that time forgot, I wondered for a moment what I'd gotten myself into. It certainly was remote. Directly below there was nothing but vast expanses of emerald green forests flanking craggy cliffs whipped by wild cobalt seas. But just as I wondered where in this wild tangle of nature we'd actually be able to land... a runaway appeared, and we touched down.

We were greeted by our guide Alberto Chavez of Amstar Tours from whom we received an entire encyclopedic learning about the region over the next week. His passion for the unique biodiversity of this area was absolutely infectious, and as a former biologist his knowledge was indepth. But the foremost point he wanted to drive home was that the preservation of nature there was no accident.

Today, their success in creating a tourism project with minimum environmental impact resulted in the region receiving the prestigious Green Globe Award and also becoming the first destination in the Americas to receive the coveted EarthCheck Gold Certification. “We learned from making mistakes in other tourism regions- growing too fast without taking the environment into account.” says Chavez. “Here we endeavoured to build around and with nature to preserve the very attractions that draw people here in the first place.”

An eye to careful planning was also apparent as we drove through the tiny main town of La Crucecita (little cross) en

A Little Background...

In 1985, the Mexican government and FONATUR (Fondo Nacional de Turismo) decided to create their first sustainable tourism region. They chose Huatulco for its eclectic natural offerings.

Download our Free CWT App for Android and Apple devices. Visit our website www.canadianworldtraveller.com to access a direct link.

route to the resort. The roads were excellent, the sidewalks clean and the neighbourhoods well-laid out in tidy little grids with beautifully landscaped proprieties. No garbage-lined alleyways, meandering chickens, beat-up pick-up trucks or wandering stray dogs in sight. Though this urban zone was built some 25 years ago, everything still looks brand new. And their lovely little church- Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe boasts a 20-metertall image of the Virgin of Guadalupe, apparently the largest one in the world.

There is also a small touristic zone of vendors there where you can purchase unique souvenirs like “alebrijes”- brightly painted wood carvings of mythical creatures that originated in the state's capital city of Oaxaca. There are no fast food outlets, though there are many dining spots where you can sample local cuisine like tamales wrapped in banana leaves, tlayudas- flatbreads topped with black bean puree and quesillo (soft white cheese), and their signature moles made with local chocolate. And if you're really adventurous, you can also try the local delicacy “chapulines”-fried grasshoppers topped with salt and lemon. (I passed on that one though.)

World Class Creature Comforts I can't say I was surprised by the opulence that greeted us in the lobby of Secrets Huatulco Resort & Spa. That's because I'm a huge fan of this upscale adults-only all-inclusive resort brand. I have stayed at six others throughout Mexico and the Caribbean and they have never disappointed. They truly do deliver on their promise of “Unlimited Luxury”.

Top-shelf drinks at numerous bars and inroom mini-fridge refreshed daily, first-rate cuisine in numerous dining spots where no reservations are required, beachside service and 24/7 room service keeps your thirst quenched and your hunger sated around the clock. Then there are specialty nights with massive buffets and live entertainment as well. AND no tacky bracelets!

This Secrets is one of the newer resorts in Huatulco, built in 2011 on its own stretch of golden sand in Conejos Bay, it received the AAA Four Diamond Award in 2013. And though it is a BIG complex cascading down the mountain with 399 oceanfront suites connected by an impressive sky tower overlooking a massive winding water-circuit of pools, it's still dwarfed by the grandeur of the dramatic natural scenes surrounding it. And their cliffside spa is one of the most beautiful and luxurious retreats I have ever experienced.

As far as activities, you could keep busy for days- snorkeling, hobie cat sailing, taking their fitness and yoga classes, and joining their special events. Or you could just lounge around the beach and take in the stunning scenery. The resort is large enough that if you're not into the vibe that's happening around you, you can simply move on to where it is. But though it was really difficult to tear myself away from such ever-present pampering (even my swim-out suite had its own whirlpool tub) I did want to get a real sense of the region. And the only way to do that is by boat.

Maritime Pleasures & Terrestrial Treasures With 36 stunning beaches spread across nine bays to explore, a guided boat tour is a must. The scenic vistas from the water include natural blowholes, rock art sculptures, secret virgin beaches and spectacular cliffs. But I'm an avid marine life lover so what I really wanted to see was hiding underneath the waves.

“Go find me some dolphins!” I jokingly urged the captain. Then to my surprise, he abruptly changed course and headed straight out to sea. Within minutes we were surrounded by a curious pod of my favourite ever-smiling marine mammals.

Incredible! And snorkeling nearby, I spotted many species of colorful fish I'd never seen before. Diving is also supposed to be excellent in this region, and if you go at the right time of year, you're also bound to see lots of migrating whales.

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pineapple topped with melted cheese seriously blew me away.

On land, history buffs will enjoy the new Copalita Archaeological Eco-Park-35 hectares of well-preserved ruins of ancient civilizations including a civil-ceremonial centre, plazas, temples and a ball court.

There's also a small modern museum with lots of artifacts. And a trip up to the mountain town of Pluma Hidalgo to visit local artisan coffee plantations is also fun.

But not to be missed is the natural mud bath.

Where the Copalita River meets the sea, there is a mineral-rich mud that the ancients thought had healing powers.

Even if it doesn't, it's still a fabulous natural skin exfoliation treatment. For a few dollars, you can be slathered in it, then let it dry in the sun, and later rinse off in the sea. The result is as good as any pricey spa treatment: baby-soft skin! And the scenery on that beach is also well worth the trip.

Safe, clean, modern, and yet primal and exhilarating, Huatulco is a wonderful example of the new kind of eco-tourism region savvy travelers will be heading for this year.

Airlines from Canada that go there include Air Canada, AeroMexico, United and Sunwing. www.visitmexico.com/en/huatulco www.secretsresorts.com

Later, we stopped for lunch at Maguey Bay- a full service beach with a carnivallike atmosphere. It was filled with families enjoying water sports of every ilk and patronizing the many surf-side eateries.

We ate at El Camaron Gigante (Giant Shrimp) and their oven-fired jumbo shrimp and cream sauce baked in a halfCanadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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Morocco

T h e

S p l e n d o u r

O f

M a r r a k e s h

Article by Habeeb Salloum, Photos: Michael Morcos

S

ituated in the middle of a fertile plain and incorporating many enclosed and open gardens, Marrakesh is surrounded by huge olive, orange and palm orchards, and is overshadowed by the snow-peaked 4,177 m (13,700 ft) high Djebel Toubkal, the highest mountain in Morocco. One of the most fascinating and mysterious of cities, this ancient metropolis has a fairyland setting.

Its splendid pinkish structures, colourfully dressed inhabitants, ageless craftsmen at work, historic remains and its renowned Jamaa el Fna Square complement its location and make it an enchanting town - once visited, never forgotten.

Marrakesh with its glorious past known to many as: ‘Empress of the Sahara’ is one of the country's four Imperial Capitals.

Labelled the ‘Pearl of Morocco's South’ It was founded in the 11th century, as the capital of this newly established empire by Yusuf ibn Tashfin, the first Almoravide sultan. In the ensuing years, it was enlarged and beautified with fine palaces and mosques by the subsequent Almoravide rulers and those of the Almohade, and Saadian Dynasties. Today, the city with over 1,500,000 inhabitants has expanded until it has become the third largest in Morocco. Yet, it is the vestiges from its

illustrious past that still give it a bewitching charm.

The town has spread beyond its ancient walls into a section called Ville Nouvelle where most modern homes, official buildings, businesses and luxury hotels are located. Its wide fruit-laden lemon, orange and palm lined avenues, edged by pink-ochre attractive houses and spacious gardens give it a picturesque and inviting aura. The traditional architectural design, evolved to fit into the modern world, and attractive colour of these structures imbue modern Marrakesh with a breath-taking appeal.

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columns of brick covered with stucco. The minbar is made from carved cedar wood inlaid with mosaic panels and was brought in the 12th century from Cordova to Marrakesh by the Almoravides when they occupied Muslim Spain. Visitors can only view the mosque from the outside – non-Muslims are not allowed to enter.

Above all, what has made Marrakesh a true tourist mecca is Jamaa el Fna, one of the most famous and liveliest entertainment spots in the world. The central square of the old city, it can hold up to 10,000 and gives Marrakesh its unique character. Once said to have been the place where the sultan hung the heads of his enemies, whence its name ‘Assembly of the Dead’, it is both a market and entertainment centre.

Every day from early morning to long after darkness, Jamaa el Fna is humming with activity. Acrobats, dancers and musicians, fortune-tellers, jugglers, singers, snake charmers and storytellers hold both native and tourist spellbound. Intermixed with the entertainers are food stalls, all types of vendors, and primitive dentists and herb doctors plying their trade. Strolling back and forth between the crowds, gaudily dressed water sellers jingle their brass cups to indicate that they are selling water carried in goatskins strapped to their backs.

The Medina (the older part of town) with almost 10 km (6mi) of ochre mud walls 10 m (33 ft) high, encircling buildings built from this same mud and pinkish stone has through the ages been known as the ‘Red City’. Within its ramparts, once entered by 12 gates of which 8 remain, are countless historic remains and more colour and excitement than in any other city in the world.

Topping the historic structures inside the Medina is the Koutoubia, a ochre-stone minaret 77 m (253 ft) high which overshadows the city. Its attached 5,200 sq. m (55,568 sq ft) mosque contains 112

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manufacturing endless leather products, are like a medieval assembly line in full production.

When visitors tire of Moroccan history, architecture and ancient streets, they can, if they wish, enjoy the activities of the modern world. The newer part of the city, called Gueliz, joined to the old city by the Avenue Muhammad V, has excellent gardens, golf courses, nightclubs, and discos.

Most hotels have swimming pools and entertainment and, in the nearby towering hills, one can hunt or mountain-climb.

The most affluent section of the new city is along Muhammad VI Avenue – the longest avenue in Morocco. As we walked on the Avenue our guide quoted more than once these words taken from an English poem but altered somewhat “Let us see the handsome mansions where the wealthy love to stroll and dwell.”

From Jamaa el Fna, passages lead to the souks in the old city. Every street and every shop in this medieval part of Marrakesh is filled with a riot of colour, noise and all types of activity. The exotic perfume and spice souks, diffusing heavenly aromas and the colourful dyers and leather markets are worth exploring.

On the other hand, if one wants to savour the best of the rich Moroccan folklore, the time to visit Marrakesh is in June/July.

Every year at that time a National Folks Arts Festival is held in the city. Organized amid the ruins of El Badi Palace with its 100 fountains, the festival encompasses the African, Arab and Berber heritage of Morocco.

However, the skilled artisans plying their trades are what intrigue the visitors.

Potters producing masterpieces from bits of clay; woodworkers creating fine articles with amazing speed; metal craftsmen turning out eye-catching engraved shining plates; and leather workers with hands which have inherited the skills of centuries,

Based on the traditions of Morocco's illustrious past, the festival is a live homage to this historic city. No one who attends this fantastic celebration and, at the same time, explores the town, will easily forget the splendour of Marrakesh that has inspired writers and poets throughout the centuries.

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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T h e r e

i s

n o

B a l i - I n

by Michael Morcos

37

p l a c e

l i k e

d o n e s i a Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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K

nown as “The Island of the Gods”, this paradise offers great beaches, perfect waves for surfing and wonderful natural locations to visit and explore. In addition to these natural wonders, Bali is blessed with gifted artists and colorful ceremonies that will take your breath away.

But Bali is much more than that, and there is something special about the island’s ambiance that is difficult to describe. It has inspired visitors from all over the world and the Balinese themselves have added to this mystique with their warm and welcoming character.

Bali is the most popular and most well-known travel location in Indonesia. It has a large new airport and many international airlines arrive daily, making it a great starting point to explore the rest of the country.

We were in the mood for a bit of luxury and decided to stay at one of the many fully serviced luxury villas in Bali. As usual, there were cooks, maids, and drivers who care for our every need and our hosts truly made sure that our stay was perfect.

We were impressed at how surprisingly affordable it was.

There is an unbelievable range of restaurants, spas, activities and shopping to do and it is all nearby and available at very fair prices. In fact, the number of things to do in Bali will astonish visitors and keep world travelers coming back, as Bali is that rarer of places that are both deeply spiritual and filled with fun things to do.

Our trip started with the activities that anyone would associate with Bali - Scuba Diving. Indonesia is world-famous for its diving, and Bali is the perfect place to start exploring in this fashion. Diving here comes in many styles, from ridges and dropoffs to relaxed bommies and shipwrecks, including the magnificent Menjangan natural park and the famous wreck of the USS Liberty. Enjoy coral, tropical fish and even giant Manta rays while swimming in the crystal clear waters of this diver’s dreamland.

For Golfing enthusiasts, Bali is where Indonesia comes to play.

There are several internationally designed and professionally managed golf courses, with State of the Art services which allow you to come to the driving range at night. Carefully designed greens, exciting courses with well-maintained putting surfaces, helpful caddies and stylish restaurants are there welcoming you to an unforgettable golf holiday.

For families and others interested in the natural world, Bali features world-class animal, parks. The Bali Zoo is filled with many local and exotic animals, and coupled with the Bali Bird Park & Reptile Park, any animal lover will be happy!

I was particularly impressed with the Ubud Monkey Forest, a unique nature reserve and temple complex whose full name is the Padangtegal Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. The complex houses approximately 605 Crabeating Macaque in four groups, each occupying different territories in the park. The Sacred Monkey Forest is a popular tourist attraction visited by over 10,000 tourists a month. The Monkey Forest contains the Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal temple as well as a "Holy Spring" bathing temple and another temple used for cremation ceremonies. The Padangtegal Wenara Wana

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Foundation manages the Monkey Forest and maintains its sacred integrity to promote the sacred site as a destination for visitors.

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There are many more parks and locations where you can enjoy yourself, including the botanic gardens, hot spring baths etc, and all of them are well maintained and affordable.

All these are wonderful reasons to visit this exotic local, but our trip here was for a specific reason – to visit the Uluwatu temple and witness the Kecak dance.

Bali has hundreds of temples, and though Uluwatu is a small one with not much significance, there was something special about it. Found on a magnificent cliff by the sea, we were amazed with the view while walking around. The area offers acres of walking trails, but we were never tired since there was so much to see. As a funny aside, we were warned to keep all hats and sunglasses in our bags as the monkeys in the temple roam freely and will snatch anything they can get their paws on!

Just before sunset, we walked through the monkey sanctuary and up towards temple. The view out over the ocean was amazing as the waves were more powerful than those of our resort.

As we made our way to the auditorium, the sun was starting to set. After an afternoon of walking, with the red cliffs standing out against the blue sky, we witnessed the most astonishing sunset I've ever seen. The temple on the cliff, the sunset, the ocean... It was definitely worth the effort of walking all day.

We sat down to enjoy the Kecak Fire Dance is performed in a semi-circular theater that holds almost 1000 people. When we purchased our tickets for the show, we were given a leaflet explaining the dance and that the only music would be made by the 70 person male choir. The performers chanted “ke-chak, kechak” rhythmically while they beat their chests, clapped their hands, and stomped their feet. The women were exceptionally colourful and exotic, dancing as counterpoint to the men.

The fire dance is a dramatic retelling of the story of Ramayana, featuring characters like Rama and Sita, the demon king Rhawana, the monkey king Hanoman, and evil giants, all wearing elaborate costumes and carrying out complicated choreography. The physical prowess and the dancer’s athleticism are remarkable.

We found that the artists were quite connected to the drama, and we could see how the repetitive Kecak chant could easily induce the trance like state for some of the men. The drama was well performed with exquisite costuming and the background, the open air theatre, was enchanting. It felt like we were back in the Stone Age! I felt more connected to the cultural life of the Balinese after this visit. It was quite hypnotic and I have never seen a performance quite like it. But don’t leave too soon – you’ll miss the fire kicked around at the end.

The whole experience was quite magical. Spectacular mountain scenery and beaches with warm and friendly people there to help added to the vibrant culture and out of this world resorts appeal through its sheer natural beauty of looming volcanoes and lush terraced rice fields. The dramatic dances and colorful ceremonies, arts and crafts, just add to Bali’s exotic island mystique.

Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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S E C U A D O R ’ S

tretching from the eastern flank of the Andes to the borders of Colombia and Peru, Ecuador’s Amazon is one of the most biologically diverse areas on earth. Complementing Ecuador’s natural surroundings are a variety of award-winning eco lodges and spas for travelers seeking an ideal blend between authenticity and sustainable comfort and luxury.

The following eco lodges are considered some of Ecuador’s best ecological destinations and have recently earned prestigious awards at the World Travel Awards 2014.

In Galapagos: Finch Bay Eco Hotel For the third consecutive year, the Finch Bay Eco Hotel in the Galapagos was recognized as the “Best Ecological Hotel in South America,” at the 2014 World Travel Awards. It’s no coincidence as Finch Bay is a pioneer in environmental management with its use of solar panels, biodegradable detergents and soaps, and the classifying and recycling of waste.

Located in the bay of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, the hotel has actively worked to reforest the surrounding mangrove. Finch Bay promotes the use of refillable bottles, serves organic food, conducts daily beach cleanups, and the majority of its staff ride to work by bicycle.

Guests can discover the enchanted islands through its all-inclusive packages that vary from three to seven days and include excursions to the most important sites of the Galapagos National Park.

www.finchbayhotel.com

In the Andes: Papallacta Hot Springs Tucked away in the Andes Mountains, hot water naturally flows from the mountains and is channeled into pools of varying temperatures at Termas Papallacta where guests can bask, day and night. At an altitude of around 10,500 feet, the eco-lodge is located just an hour and a half east of Quito.

Termas Papallacta was recognized as the “Best Spa Resort in Ecuador” at the 2014 World Travel Awards due to its excellent service, spa treatments, facilities and an infrastructure aesthetically appropriate to the environment. Its unique spa treatments include individual hydro massage baths, body treatments with medicinal Andean mud, baths in the Thermal Cave, saunas, pressure massages, aromatherapy, face and body treatments and more.

www.termaspapallacta.com

With so much to offer, it’s no wonder that Ecuador was also awarded South America's Leading Green Destination at the World Travel Awards this year. For more information about Ecuador, visit www.ecuador.travel.com

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AWARD-WINNING ECO LODGES In the Andes: Cloud Forest Arashá Tropical Forest Resort & Spa The Arashá Tropical Forest Resort & Spa was recognized as the best resort in both South America and Ecuador at the 2014 World Travel Awards.

Named after an exotic fruit, the eco lodge is located two hours west of Quito, amid the biggest "hot spot" in the world, with more than 35,000 plant species being 50 percent endemic to the region. It also possesses 644 different species of amphibians and 500 species of birds.

With its ecologically sensitive bungalows, Arashá offers guests the possibility of being immersed in the richness and tranquility of this most fragile region combined with both luxury and comfort in the middle of the rainforest. Guests can also enjoy its peculiar spa with scrubs made of fruits and “baños de cajon” (steam box bath).

www.arasharesortspa.com

In the Andes: Cloud Forest Mashpi Lodge Awarded as the “Best Ecological Hotel in Ecuador” at the 2014 World Travel Awards, the Mashpi Lodge was specially designed for the area in which it is located with sustainable construction techniques mimicking the environment. Lost high up in the Andes, a few hours west of Quito, the Mashpi Lodge is located in a 1,300 hectare reserve, where the biodiversity of the rain-forest is protected and the wildlife thrives.

With glass walls and contemporary, sustainable design, the Mashpi Lodge offers incredible views over the surrounding landscape. Venture into the forest to come into close contact with the wildlife, with countless species of birds, as well as monkeys, peccaries and pumas. After a day of exploring the surroundings with your guide, the Mashpi Lodge offers comforting amenities that range from a dip in the Jacuzzi to a relaxing read in their library.

Its environmental management is emphasized by the low impact on the region during construction and the electric energy savings with the use of low power devices. Their goal is to have biologically treated wastewater, treat residual waters, recycle its waste and have 80 percent of its personnel come from the area.

www.mashpilodge.com Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

Office National du Tourisme Tunisien 1155, Rue University, Suite 1014 Montreal , QC H3B 3A7 TĂŠl. : (514) 397-1182 Email : tunisinfo@qc.aira.com Site Web : www.tourismtunisia.com

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Door County, Wi

Sun,

sea

by Anne-Marie Macloughlin

and

sand

-

Mid

I sconsin

f anyone had said that some of the prettiest seaside vistas, sand dunes and lighthouses – never mind water 45 sports and sailing - were to be found in the cheese capital of America, I would have taken that with a grain of sand. Such was my surprise when happening on Door County, WI – a sliver of natural beauty that juts into Lake Michigan with a tremendous amount of indoor and outdoor options, year round. And cheese, of course.

Geography, Location and Climate With Door County just over an hour away from Green Bay (home of the Packers, as I was reminded of more than once), this peaceful slice of Wisconsin is easily accessible to visitors arriving by plane or car, and is approximately 7 hours drive from the Windsor-Detroit border. Door County sits at the top of Lake Michigan with Green Bay on its western side. With 300 miles of shoreline, 53 beaches, 19 county and 5 state parks, there are many opportunities for camping, sailing, kayaking, or just soaking up the sun in the peak season. On average, July and August hover around daytime highs of around 75 F, and winters are typically mild, with temperatures rarely dipping below freezing making winter sports a big draw.

Door County has many pretty resorts scattered around the shoreline. I was staying in quietly picturesque Bailey’s Harbour on the edge of the Ridges Nature Sanctuary, a woody wilderness that enhanced the area’s reputation as a quiet refuge. With erratic cell phone and WiFi service, it was a little disconcerting to be ‘off the grid’, but the great outdoors soon made up for it.

Biking, Hiking and Beaches Peninsula State park is a cyclist’s paradise, equipment rentals courtesy of the Lent family and Edge of Park Rentals (edgeofpark.com). With a stunning amount of options available, including 24-speed road bikes, jogger strollers, special needs equipment and even pet carts, everyone can enjoy riding the Sunset Trail. An easy route, the fine gravel on the path is user-friendly, the leafy green silence a panacea for the stressed-out soul.

After an energetic two-hour ride, we were ready for a hearty lunch in Fish Creek. The Wild Tomato (info@wildtomatopizza.com) is a cozy establishment famous for the eponymous dish, made right in front of you in a traditional wood-fired oven. There are several options for vegetarians and the lactose and gluten intolerant. The Cherry Walnut salad with local goat cheese and famous Wisconsin cherries was almost too good to be true. The Tomato also has a ‘Donation Creation’ on their menu, a specialty pizza with proceeds going to local non-profit organizations.

west-style

Satisfied but not too stuffed, next port of call was hike ‘Old Baldy’ – Wisconsin’s highest sand dune. Located in Whitefish Dunes State Park, the view from the top is worth the hike. Our highly knowledgeable guide introduced us to one of nature’s edible treats, the raspberry-like thimbleberry, and gave tips on how to identify and avoid the dreaded poison ivy. The park was home to eight Native American Villages from 100BC to the late 1800s, illustrated by very authentic reconstruction of teepees and artefacts.

As a bracing cooling-off option on this typically sunny, humid day, our hosts directed us to Cave Point County Park to see the limestone sea caves, formed as a result of Lake Michigan’s relentless pounding. A favourite spot for bathers, we declined the option and headed off to another of Door County’s dining experiences, Canadian World Traveller Fall / Winter 2014-15

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Fred and Fuzzy’s Waterfront Bar and Grill (fredandfuzzys.com). Patrons have the option of indoor or outdoor dining, the latter a delightful experience on a warm Wisconsin evening. This bay is known as a premier sunset and storm watching spot, the weather obliging and sending in dark clouds, gusty winds and a mini deluge, as we ran for cover and a Door County Cherry Juice Margarita.

Into the Wilderness The next day, the hardcore cyclists (and me) decided to conquer the challenging trails of Newport State Park, Wisconsin’s only formally designated wilderness park.

2,373 acres and 11 miles of Lake Michigan shoreline. Sweaty and invigorated, we took a time out at Wilson’s Restaurant and Ice Cream Parlour in Ephraim, slaking our thirst with homebrewed draft root beer and sweet temptations.

Still on a sugar high from Wilson’s, we took a leisurely cruise around the shoreline by water taxi, on the lookout for some of Door County’s famous lighthouses.

Eleven in total, these photogenic beacons are widely accessible during the annual Door County Lighthouse Festival (for more information, contact the Door County Maritime Museum at dcmm.org) A quick trip back to the hotel, then onto Rowleys Bay Restaurant to taste yet more of the local gastronomic offerings. A vintage-style resort, Rowleys Bay keeps tradition alive by offering an authentic fish boil dinner. As part of the experience, a storyteller enthusiastically brings the past to life on the lawn outside the restaurant, while the fish boiler and his crew fill a huge iron cauldron with whitefish, onion and potatoes, cooked over a flaming pit. A unique dining experience, especially when the cook literally throws fuel on the fire. Have your cameras ready, and if you value your eyebrows, stand well back!

The Roar of the Greasepaint, the Smell of the Crowd

As much as the area is a haven for outdoor activities and the wonders of nature, Door County plays host to America’s oldest professional resident summer theatre.

The Peninsula Players Theatre (peninsulaplayers.com) has been exciting audiences since 1935, and is currently located along the shore of Green Bay in an idyllic woodsy setting. Prior to the show, patrons can picnic and relax on the grounds while watching the dazzling Wisconsin sunset from the shore, or enjoy a cold beer during intermission. With fairy lights strung through the trees and the last of the sun’s rays on the lake, you would be hard put to find another theatre company with such a photogenic backdrop.

If the surroundings were not impressive enough, you’ll be blown away with the onstage talent. We were treated to the Midwest premiere of Richard Strand’s civil war drama “Butler”, starring Artistic Director Greg Vinkler as the titular character in a gripping dramatic performance. I was relieved that after intermission, however, the sliding doors on either side of the house were lowered to keep out hungry bugs.

From energetic cycling tours, hiking trails, local delicacies and world-class theatre, Door County WI is the ideal destination for families, couples, and even the solo traveller, the Midwestern charm and friendliness of the locals a joy to experience. Some may find the lifestyle a tad slow when compared to the larger resorts or warmer climes. That said, after my initial horror at losing cell phone service and unease at my hotel’s ‘isolated’ location, it was oddly soothing not to be at the mercy of technology and the outside world. As I returned that evening, I paused for a moment to savour my surroundings. No street lamps to dazzle, traffic to deafen, or crowded streets to navigate. At 11pm on a Wednesday night, all I heard was the gentle buzzing of crickets. Sometimes, silence is golden.

www.doorcounty.com

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