CanapĂŠ
Summer 2014
Features Montreal’s Emerging Chefs Insight into Montreal’s newest culinary talent. Mike Lapointe and Shamini Somasundram share a little about themselves.
Summer Salads Make these delicious and anything-but-boring salads for your next BBQ or a quiet dinner at home.
Exploring Montreal’s Chinatown A look at some of the delicious culinary treats you can find in Chinatown.
Review: Park Restaurant Montreal Food Diva’s experience one of our city’s hottest restaurants.
Contributors Mike Lapointe Mike is a chef and the creator of the recipes Lobster Potato Salad and Rhubarb Spritzer.
Shamini Somasundram Shamini is a chef and the creator of the recipes Asian Pomelo Salad with Spiced Plum Dressing and Lychee Spritzer.
Montreal Food Divas Montreal Food Divas are the authors of a popular food blog in Montreal. They have been reviewing restaurants since 2011. Check them out at www.montrealfooddivas.com.
Jennifer Stowe Jennifer is the editor-in-chief and photographer for Canapé Magazine. To contact her please email jennifer@stowephotography.com or visit www.stowephotography.com.
Want to contribute to Canapé Magazine? We’re always interested in new ideas for articles or dishes! Please contact Jennifer at jennifer@stowephotography.com for more information.
Editor’s Letter Thank you for reading Canapé Magazine! This started out as a fleeting idea, that I couldn’t get out of my head. Here is the first issue of that idea! It’s been a great experience putting the magazine together. I would like to say a huge thank you to everyone who helped and supported me through this process. A very special thank you goes out to the contributors! Without you guys, there would be no magazine. Thank you to the Diva’s for taking time to contribute an excellent restaurant review. And a big thanks to the chefs, Mike and Shamini, who created 2 delicious meals and styled the shoots. I hope you enjoy! Stay tuned for our fall harvest issue in a couple of months. Bon appétit!
Jennifer Stowe Editor-in-Chief
Montreal’s Emergings Chefs Insight into Montreal’s newest culinary talent. Mike Lapointe and Shamini Somasundram share a little about themselves.
Shamini Somasundram
What did you have for dinner last night? Cassoulet What is your favourite season? I like the fall because of the colours. But I am learning to love the spring, the anticipation of all the beautiful food. The chef you’d most like to spend the day with? Thomas Keller. I would like to spend the day with him on the farm. Any guilty pleasures?
Ice cream
What motivated you to become a chef? My Grandma. I was brought up around food. My mom is Chinese and my dad is Indian and both cultures are huge on food. My Grandmother cooked for the entire family so we had a long dinner table and I was so inspired by the amount of food she could put on that table. What defines an outstanding meal for you? It doesn’t have to be fancy or in a fancy place. The people you are eating with make a big impact on how you enjoy the food. Must have kitchen tool/gadget? A whisk and a china cap.
What did you have for dinner last night?
Salad. In the summertime I always have salads.
It’s your last weekend on Earth. What city are you eating in?
Portland, Oregon. I went there last year and really enjoyed the food. It’s sustainable and local, very focused on great ingredients and simple recipes.
What is your favourite dish to prepare?
Braised veal cheeks.
Favourite dish from childhood?
Grilled cheese with bacon.
Unexpected guests are arriving in one hour... what would you prepare? Some simple hors d’oeuvres and nibbly things like guacamole and chips. The chef you’d most like to spend the day with?
Lynn Crawford.
What defines an outstanding meal for you?
Something beautifully prepared. Simple ingredients done well.
Must have kitchen tool/gadget?
I have a lot of them...but my favourite is a good knife.
Mike Lapointe
Exploring Montreal’s Chinatown
Park Restaurant: Chef Antonio Park
Review and photographs by Montreal Food Divas
Speechless. A state not often associated with the Divas. In fact, we cannot think of another moment where we could say that a dinner was so exquisite that we were left in utter silence. This was our second visit to Park Restaurant and we assure you, it will not be our last. But who are the Montreal Food Divas? The Food Divas have been frequenting Montreal restaurants on Thursdays since November 2011. In some (most) circles, Diva #1 and Diva #2 are known for causing trouble, therefore, our Thursday nights are reserved for plotting (bitching), drinking (getting tipsy) and eating great food (gluttonous indulgence), all done in great company (an unholy alliance). We just love food and want to share our Montreal dining experiences. The Divas arrived at Park Restaurant fairly on time, well for us anyway, and headed to the counter where Chef Antonio Park greeted us. We were having the Omakase tasting menu which means “I’ll leave it to you” in Japanese and we could not be in more capable hands with this famous, up and coming Montreal Chef. Our first service was a surf and turf kimchi soup with enoki mushrooms and green onions. The broth was full of flavour, a bit spicy and incredibly delicious. We were off to a very impressive start. Is soup even supposed to taste this good? Chef Antonio Park is of Korean descent but he grew up in South America until he moved to Canada as a teenager. He went to culinary school in Japan, and worked in New York, Toronto, Montreal and elsewhere. His diverse background helped him become the chef that he is today. Each dish cannot simply be called Latin, Japanese, Korean, etc, as each plate is as diverse as his background, incorporating varied flavours and textures.
Venison tataki seasoned with Japanese seven spice was placed before us, served with slivers of radish and crème de foie gras. This was absolute heaven! The crème de foie gras, made in-house, was unbelievably velvety and smooth like butter, with a hint of smokiness. The venison was a deep red colour, barely seared on the outside, raw and cool on the inside. The sel de mer sprinkled on top tied everything together. A generous portion, Diva #1 was dumbfounded when Diva #2 gave her an extra piece of foie gras from her plate; she was stunned by the generosity that she could never return! She loves foie gras that much… Next, the 8 piece nigiri plate arrived, which Chef Park rhythmically prepared with patience, each piece, fresh, rich and unique in its own right. Each nigiri was garnished with an element that enhanced the flavour but did not take away from its freshness. Toppings included wasabi, shishito pepper, jalapeno rings, Spanish caviar, chimichurri and more. Instructed to eat from the top right across, each nigiri was better than the next, ending with the strongest, which was the slightly seared salmon with a maple glaze. When the torch came out to lightly sear the salmon, we were mesmerized.
We were intoxicated by the aroma of wild BC halibut. All the fish at Park restaurant is sustainably caught and privately imported. The halibut was seared on one side to create a crispy crust which added flavour to the tender white fish. It sat on a bed of fennel salad with cipollini onions adding a touch of sweetness. A black garlic purée was painted on the plate.
The next dish was pure extravagance. Served in a cold, white bowl, a generous amount of BC uni sat in a sweet onion and carrot purée, with basil and micro sorrel leaves. Texturally, the purée blended well with the uni, it was almost foie gras like in creaminess. Visually, the dish was bright and inviting. After our first bite we were ready to die if it meant that Chef Park’s Omakase menu was our last meal.
Bright orange Chinook salmon decorated with Japanese mint, yellowtail belly, and wild sea bass topped with a slice of crunchy baby truffle peach, acupunctured red snapper, and silver eye sea bream arrived in a tosazu sauce. Acupuncturing fish means that the fishermen insert needles into the fish to avoid the trauma of death, which ensures optimal tenderness. Sounds like a mouthful? It truly was. The fish was fresh and meaty, and the sauce didn’t mask the fish’s’ flavours.
As we were handed our dish over the short glass divide, our mouths started watering. Seared foie gras was wrapped with a shiso leaf, with drops of wasabi and edamame purée. Chef Park told us to pour the Japanese plum sauce as a topping and enjoy. We did as instructed and the taste was divine! The foie gras was salty, caramelized and crispy, the sauce matched perfectly, although at this point we expected nothing less.
We were entering a food coma, but Chef Park was not done with us. The next dish was a 45-day aged Angus beef, seasoned with Joe Beef steak spice and garnished with chimichurri, shallots, Kimchi and coriander sprouts. The meat was bursting with flavour, seasoned to perfection, and each ingredient worked flawlessly together.
We ended the Omakase tasting menu with dessert. A dense but moist pistachio cake sat on diced pineapples that were flavoured with vanilla; the cake was topped with a gelée of coconut milk, chocolate mousse and spun sugar. Everything worked well together and the raspberry purée brightened each bite. The cake was very light to offset the heaviness of the rich meal. Our night at Park was unbelievable. It was an unforgettable experience sitting in front of Chef Antonio Park, who seemingly and effortlessly created his Omakase menu right before us. When it comes to sushi, sadly Montreal isn’t on par with the likes of New York and Japan. Chef Park is definitely doing his part to put the city on the map, all while enhancing his well-deserved stellar reputation. The Divas cannot wait to return, it truly was a remarkable experience!
Summer Salads Make these delicious salads at home! And what would a summer dinner be without a delicious cocktail to pair it with!
Lobster Potato Salad -2 freshly cooked 2 lbs lobsters cut into fat chunks -10 small new potatoes quartered -A small handful of fresh pea tendrils or 1/3 cup of fresh peas or frozen organic -1 Fresh corn on the cob grilled and cut into small pieces or frozen organic nibblets -3/4 cup finely sliced Fennel Could use a mandolin -1 large scallion finely sliced on the bias -1 Carrot julienned -2 Celery stalks finely sliced on the bias (the yellow-y core part is sweeter) -2 small Lebanese Cucumbers -4 slices of crispy bacon (medium thickness) cut into medium sized bits. Set some aside for garnish.
SAUCE: -1/3 cup of fresh Dill finely chopped -Zest of 1 organic Lemon -1/2 of a organic Lemon juiced -1 1/3 cup of Mayo (Homemade mayo is great if you know the salad will be eaten in its entirety, but if you want the leftovers to last longer in the fridge, go with Hellman’s) Sea salt & cracked black pepper Chives and/or chive flowers for garnish Curly lettuce or frisÊe for plating Drizzle with a bit of olive oil at the end Recipe yields: 4 large servings as a main meal or 6-8 small plates as a side dish
Rhubarb Spritzer -8 cups of rhubarb (cut into small chunks) -2 cups of water -2 cups of sugar Place in large pot, bring all ingredients to a boil. Do not cover with a lid. It may cause the syrup to go cloudy. Once it’s reached the boiling point, lower the heat to a low simmer and let it go for 20 more minutes, stirring occasionally. Pass through a fine sieve, pressing on the sides to extract as much of the syrup as possible. You can also use cheesecloth. Then pour into an old wine bottle or 750mL bottle with a hermetic seal. Let the mixture cool down before placing it in the fridge. You can discard the rhubarb pulp but I prefer to keep it because it has a great texture and it’s delicious on toast with a bit of cream cheese in the morning. Just add a squirt or two of lemon juice to the pulp and incorporate well so it keeps it’s color a little longer. It also adds a nice kick of acid to the spread. For the Spritzer: 1/4 cup (4 tbsp) of rhubarb syrup with a full can of club soda. The quantity ranges according to specific tastes. Garnish with mint leaves and/or a wedge of lime.
Asian Pomelo Salad
with Spiced Plum Dressing To Julienne:
-1 tablespoon olive oil
-Juice of 2 limes
-1 Cucumber, discard the seed core -1 Carrot -1 medium daikon radish/white radish -1 mango -50g pickled ginger (the sushi kind)
-Salt & Pepper
Garnish:
-1/4 Pomelo (Chinese Grapefruit), cut into small bite-size wedges
-Strips of deep-fried Wonton Wrappers (these will literally take seconds to deep fry in hot oil)
-1/4 sweet red onion, very thinly sliced
-1/2 cup roasted peanuts, crushed
Spiced Plum Dressing: -3 tablespoon Plum sauce (easily available in Chinese grocery store) -A pinch of 5 spice powder (also easily available in Chinese grocery store) -1/4 Jalapeno pepper finely chopped (or any pepper variety of choice ) *Optional
1. Whisk Spiced Plum ingredients to make dressing. 2. Toss julienne vegetables & fruits together. 3. Pour in the dressing & toss again to combine. 4. Garnish with roasted peanuts & strips of deep-fried wonton wrappers.
-2 tablespoon toasted sesame
5. Add slices of Duck Confit or Sauteed Shrimp for a non vegetarian version.
-1 teaspoon sesame oil
Recipe serves: 4
Lychee Spritzer Serves: 2 -250ml White wine (Sauvignon Blanc or any preferred white wine) -250ml Tonic Water -250ml Lychee Juice (comes in a can with lychee) -6 Lychee (from can or fresh) Chill ingredients before mixing