OPINION

Nick Lomas says:

Altnaharra Club Campsite in the Sutherland area of northern Scotland is a small, informal site with just 24 pitches, situated in a quite breathtaking location, directly on the shores of Loch Naver – you can kayak or fish in these waters.

The campsite is located in the vast ‘Flow Country’, an area of thousands of acres of blanket peatland and bog pools that is currently a candidate for UNESCO World Heritage Site status. It is the largest single expanse of this wild habitat and accounts for about 5% of all such landscape worldwide.

The journey to Altnaharra is an adventure in itself. If approaching from the south, the final 15 miles or so from Lairg are on single-track roads through some of the most remote but enchantingly scenic countryside in Britain. It is perhaps the closest that the mainland UK gets to wilderness, but don’t let this stand in your way; there is excellent visibility to spot oncoming traffic (such as there is) and there are plenty of passing places to let other travellers through.

The Strathnaver Trail runs along the loch shore, where you can learn about the remote communities that lived here and the harrowing Highland Clearances that left the area clear for sheep farming. The stone remains of Grummore village immediately behind the site are gradually being reabsorbed into the hillside’s heath and peat.

You will be rewarded with lochside views and interesting on-site wildlife – a pine marten and a nesting oystercatcher were my sightings.

There’s also fascinating history to discover. An Iron Age stone fortification or ‘broch’ – one of several in this part of the world – lies next to the site (its purpose is still not fully understood).

If you like a big walk, the Munro of Ben Klibreck – towering over the loch in full view from your van – is the closest peak, with Ben Hope a short drive away. And while the attractions here are peace and space, you can drop into the village to the Altnaharra Hotel bar or restaurant for a meal, or venture farther to The Crask Inn. Both are popular so, with no other options nearby, be sure to pre-book. Altnaharra regularly hits the headlines due to the village weather station, which often records weather extremes. On 19 June 2020, for example, the station registered both the warmest (22.2°C) and the coldest (7.6°C) temperature reported anywhere in the United Kingdom on that day.

You can find out more about the Flow Country at theflowcountry.org.uk, and I hope the weather station marks a record high when you visit. Altnaharra is a rite of passage for many a Club member.