FREE
N O I DIT E IAL C E SP
APRIL 2015
A PROJECT OF THE CAPE TOWN PARTNERSHIP
MOLO | HELLO | GOEIEDAG
JOIN THE CITY WALK Discover more about this collaborative community project that connects the spaces and stories of the urban heart of Cape Town through STORYTELLING, WAY-FINDING, PUBLIC ART AND PERFORMANCE, WALKING TOURS, STREET FOOD and SHOPPING.
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MOLO APRIL 2015 SPECIAL EDITION
URBAN AGRICULTURE
THE HEART OF OUR CITY
MOLO. HELLO. GOEIEDAG.
18 April, 16 May Every month be entertained by buskers, dancers, drummers, street art, gamers and more… all along the route. #walkcapetown
First Thursdays
THE CITY IS YOUR SPACE
Bulelwa Makalima-Ngewana CEO Cape Town Partnership Our gratitude goes out to our fellow Big 7 members (Cape Point, Groot Constantia, Kirstenbosch, Robben Island, Table Mountain Cableway and V&A Waterfront), and friends African Arts Institute, Arterial Network South Africa, Artscape Creative Department, Cape Town Free Walking Tours, Cape Town Tourism, Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Central City Improvement District, City of Cape Town, Company’s Garden, District 6 Museum, Footsteps to Freedom, FNB, Greenmarket Square Informal Traders Association and the traders on St George’s Mall, Green Point City Improvement District, Iziko Museums, Madame Zingara, Open Streets, Taj Cape Town, Tsogo Sun, Wesgro, and everyone whom we have collaborated with to preserve, repair and amplify the City Walk.
Every Thursday 12pm-6pm Meet top quality traders selling a range of locally produced and artisanal food products. (Upper St George’s Mall, off Wale Street, opposite the cathedral)
By Lovell Friedman, Paul du Toit, Laurie van Heerden, Aram Lello
The Company’s Garden is more than just a park – it is a heritage site dating back to the city’s earliest beginnings when Jan van Riebeeck was tasked by the Dutch East India Company to set up a refreshment station for passing ships. The land provided fertile ground for fresh produce, watered from springs on the lower slopes of Table Mountain, which was channelled down canals that now line Government Avenue.
COUPLES KISSING
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PEOPLE HUGGING
The muezzin’s cry calling the faithful to worship in the mosques.
Waking up in the city
06h00
The calls of flower sellers setting up their stalls, some of which have been in a single family for generations.
Early morning walk/run around the city
LOOK UP
Bottom of Fan Walk near St George’s Mall. By Claire Homewood, Steven van Niekerk, Neo and Falko Vibrant paintings that date back to the year the vuvuzela made it into the Oxford dictionary.
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Crafty Cluster
St Andrew’s Square. By Heath Nash, Willard Musaruwa, Felix Holm, Kommetjie Environmental Action Group A number of works by designers show the resourceful use of wire, beads and recycled plastic.
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Queen Victoria Street, opposite the Company’s Garden By Faith47 Part of the the worldrenowned Cape Town street artist’s Freedom Charter series.
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Albertus St Mostert St
LOOK DOWN
THE SLAVE LODGE (IZIKO MUSEUM)
Over 9 000 slaves were accommodated in this notorious building over the 132 years in which slave labour was used in the Cape. The Dutch East India Company imported slaves to help build the city from places such as Mozambique, Madagascar, India and Batavia. Built in 1679, the lodge had no windows and also gained the reputation of being the city’s biggest brothel. When emancipation finally came on 1 December 1834, the freed slaves took to the streets in celebration, and began the tradition of the Cape Carnival.
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Longmarket St
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Pier Place sculptures Heerengracht Street
CBD
By Egon Tania The human sculptures make a popular selfie-taking spot, not to mention the site of the days-long Burger King queues.
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Top of St George’s Mall.
Where Fan Walk crosses over Long Street.
A chunk of the wall that separated East and West Berlin until 1989 – the year we said goodbye to communism, hello internet!
By Xolilwe Mtakatya Believing that art makes chicken taste better, Nando’s has the world’s biggest corporate collection of original SA art, displayed in branches across the globe.
Strand St
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Waterkant St
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Sharks Jetty Square, lower St George’s Mall adjacent to Pier Place. By Ralph Borland
THE FAN WALK
It may not be ancient history, but it was close on half a decade ago that South Africans awoke to the sound of vuvuzelas signalling the start of the FIFA Soccer World Cup, the first to be hosted on African soil. The 2.6km Fan Walk was built to connect to the city’s CBD and Cape Town Stadium. With thousands of jubilant fans traversing the route, few can forget the vibrant buzz of the Fan Walk in 2010.
Creepy skeletons that move in response to passing pedestrians – cue Jaws soundtrack.
07h00
The clang of informal traders setting up their stalls in Greenmarket Square for the day.
Do a historical walking tour
Come To Pass | intersection of
Come To Pass, a public sculpture that takes the form of a compass and a clock, was unveiled in 2004 and is concerned, in the words of artists Fritha Langerman and Katherine Bull, “with the construction of history through different models: the official record – the archive; the oral record – the anecdotal; and history as an invention”. Six bronze discs describe important colonial occupations (explorer, settler, merchant, preacher, soldier, architect) and the six stainless steel rings are composed of information gathered from women interviewed at this spot over the course of one day.
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Wale St
Spin St
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Newspaper House | 122 St George’s Mall
In 1857 the Cape Argus newspaper was published for the first time from this address, although the building had been erected in 1836. Today, Newspaper House is still home to the Cape Argus and other Independent Newspapers titles, although in 2011 Independent Newspapers sold the property to Ingenuity Investments who refurbished the building. Today, if you venture into the foyer you can see some of the artifacts rescued from the building as well as local history captured in the photographic wallpaper.
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SOUNDS IN THE CITY 05h00
Love it or hate it, these Bart Simpson heads popping out of an African curio always get tongues wagging.
St George’s Mall and Shortmarket Street
All Shall Be Equal Before The Law
In one hour on St George’s Mall we counted:
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By Brett Murray
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– urbanist Fred Kent on what makes for a healthy public space
COUPLES HOLDING HANDS
Where St George’s Mall and Fan Walk meet
60-61 World Cup murals
Orange St
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COMPANY’S GARDEN
You see a lot of kissing in good places.
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GARDENS
Striking seats promoting safe public spaces for women and girls.
BO-KAAP
In my line of work I often read headlines that say things like, “10 ways to enjoy your city” or “Discover your own hometown”. It is not that I disagree with such notions, in fact quite the opposite, but personally I feel that what is important about such ideas is not that you “enjoy” or “discover” your own city but rather that it is your city. The city of Cape Town belongs to anyone who considers themselves a citizen, no matter whether they are new immigrants or can trace their family’s history to a certain place over many generations. I believe that it is literally the citizens of a city that create it, through all the ways they choose to live, work and play in the urban landscape they call home. Now, as we embark on the new journey of the City Walk – a communal celebration of the urban heart of our city – I would like to say to you: this is your city. Claim your space. Play with it. Create it. Use it in new ways and old. The city belongs to you.
Earth Fair Food Market
Various locations on Prestwich Square and St George’s Mall.
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St George’s Cathedral is not only a beautiful stone church built in the early 1900s, it is also renowned for the strong political stance it took in the Apartheid era, keeping its doors open to people of all races. On 13 September 1989, Archbishop Desmond Tutu and other leaders marched from St George’s with 30 000 Capetonians from diverse backgrounds in support of peace and the end of Apartheid. Though illegal, the police were not present to confront the marchers, and it symbolised a turning point in the transition to democracy.
Rock Girl benches
constitute our central park. In 2014, part of the Company’s Garden were restored to their former purpose of vegetable garden, growing fresh produce and indigenous medicinal plants. The intention is for it to serve as an educational platform for the thousands of school children and others who visit the museums on a daily basis. The produce itself is to be sold in a community market.
slickers to our wasteful ways. By making growing and eating greens cool, it is also hoped that people begin to choose healthier alternatives to the fast food that is driving obese cities. For Cape Town, urban farming is nothing new – it has sat just below the city surface for centuries. The Mother City we know today grew around the gardens planted by Jan van Riebeek (see 6), which now
ST GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL
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’S Y N N PA E M RD O A C G
7 May, 4 June, 2 July, 6 August, 3 September On the first Thursday of every month restaurants, museums and art galleries in the CBD are open until late in the evening.
THIS SPOT IN HISTORY
Buitengracht St
EDITORIAL
City Walk Saturdays
MAPPING PUBLIC ART
Bree St
Cape Town Partnership 34 Bree Street T: 021 419 1881
FREE EVENTS
OUR HISTORY
Queen Victoria St
Published by:
PUBLIC ART
St George’s Mall
T: 021 461 8601 www.infestation.co.za
PUBLIC SPACE
Government Ave
Designed by: Infestation
Adderley St
Created by: Ambre Nicolson, Brandon Roberts, Jaxon Hsu, Lisa Burnell, Nadine Botha, Nicole Cameron, Ru du Toit, Sam Bainbridge
From window sills and seed bombing in New York to basements in Tokyo and self-sufficient Cuba, urban farming is all the rage. And for good reason: a quarter of people live with hunger while about a third of the world’s food goes to waste. Although reaching the impressive scale of Cuba’s efforts is a long while off, urban farms are the beginning of sensitising city
If the streets of a city are its arteries, the people are its lifeblood. Here are just some of the many ways that the route of the City Walk comes alive every day.
Buitenkant St
Molo is a free community paper, focused on the people of Cape Town, and published by the Cape Town Partnership.
GROW YOUR OWN
Take a bus tour
10h00
The flutter of pigeon wings alighting on any one of the dozens of statues that appear along the City Walk route.
BREAKFAST
Discover a street artist
24 HOURS IN THE CENTRAL CITY
Access your inner photography enthusiast
Visit a coffee shop
Watch buskers, dancers, drummers
12h00
13h00
The boom of the Noonday Gun, which used to be fired for ships in the harbor to tell the time.
Do some mountain gazing
On Thursdays the bustle of the Earth Fair Food Market can be heard around the top of St George’s Mall, with stalls offering a range of freshly prepared food.
Search for the perfect gift
16h00
LUNCHTIME
Attend events like First Thursdays or the Earth Fair Food Market
Try some afternoon tea in the Company’s Garden
19h00
The shouts of guardjies hanging out the sides of taxi’s shouting “Seeeapoint!”
Search for gifts at Go African Greenmarket curio Square hunting
Bike through the city
Watch people
On Tuesdays you can hear the bell ringers of St George’s Cathedral practising ringing the bells that are otherwise rung on Sundays and special civic occasions.
Visit an art gallery
Sip a sundowner Catch a during theatrical happy hour performance
DINNER
Enjoy the city nightlife
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MOLO APRIL 2015 SPECIAL EDITION
STREET TALK
Many of the retailers along the City Walk route have worked in the heart of the city for decades. We asked them how the city has changed over the years.
NADINE MFUMU, Informal retailer selling curios, jewellery and clothing on St George’s Mall
Every day I embrace my spirit of creativity in order to earn a living.
RICHARD LEMKUS Owner of Jack Lemkus Sports, St George’s Mall
MOHAMMED HUSSEIN Owner of Long Street Deli corner shop, Long Street
I’ve been selling items like chips, cigarettes, cold drinks and sweets in the Cape Town city centre since 1997, when I arrived from Somalia. For ten years I traded on the pavement directly outside, and then took occupation of this store. Until about 2007, I was the only corner shop, but now there are more than ten in the area. It’s because there are a lot more people in the city; and I guess perhaps people see my success and think that they too will be able to build a good corner business shop. In my industry though it is all about choosing the right corner, and I made sure I did my research!
Jack Lemkus was my great-greatgrandfather, and I grew up in this shop. We’ve witnessed massive changes in the CBD over the years and have watched it go from strength to strength – the establishment of the Fan Walk and MyCiTi Bus have been pivotal in uplifting the area and our business has doubled as a result – 71 000 people walk past our door every day! The 2010 World Cup was an epic experience for us with the city coming alive, and tens of thousands of people flocking into the store. I guess it’s about continuing to plant the seed that Cape Town’s inner city is a place that we can all be proud of.
PHILLIP ZETLER, Owner of Phillip Zetler Jewellers, St George’s Mall
In the 30 years I’ve been here there’s always something new happening outside my window. I bought this store 30 years ago and have been working in it ever since, selling new and pre-owned jewellery and watches. The shop itself has been around for over 75 years, so it’s seen a lot of history and change in the area. In our time, we’ve seen marches, solidarity walks, buskers and gospel singers – there’s always something happening outside my window. The road becoming pedestrianised was positive for our business, as was the establishment of the CCID – the presence, willingness and helpfulness of their team members give a great sense of support.
I’ve been in Cape Town for seven years and work at this stall from Monday to Saturday, from 8am until about 6pm. I am a refugee from Congo, so in order to survive and make a living, I embrace my spirit of creativity and make necklaces, handbags and bracelets. I sit here making things while I watch the people around me. Over the years that I’ve been here, I’ve seen more and more people using this route. Unfortunately many of the tourists with guides go directly into Greenmarket Square to make their purchases – I would bring home more sales if they were encouraged to come and shop here too.
LOOK FURTHER
BEYOND THE CITY WALK If you enjoyed finding out more about the rich and turbulent
HISTORY of our city…
Now that you have experienced the vibrant public space, history, human stories, MELKBOSSTRAND art, architecture and shopping of the City Walk, it’s time to look a little further afield. For every experience available along the City Walk, many others are available in theBLAAUWBERG wider metropolitan area of Cape Town. Here’s just a taste. 3. Oranjezicht City Farm
ROBBEN ISLAND TABLE VIEW DURBANVILLE
Visit the memorial to the Gugulethu Seven
MILNERTON
SEA POINT
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URBAN AGRICULTURE
LANGA
around Cape Town…
RONDEBOSCH NEWLANDS CLAREMONT
ATLANTIC SEABOARD
LLANDUDNO
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HOUT BAY
STREET ART…
KHAYELITSHA
MUIZENBERG
FISH HOEK KOMMETJIE
Visit Hout Bay, Langa or Bellville
SCARBOROUGH
Eat fried and battered fish and fat slap chips drenched in vinegar while overlooking the Hout Bay harbour at Snoekies, which has been serving their fish’and’chips since 1951. Cost: R45 for hake and chips parcel. Opening hours: Monday to Sunday 10:00 to 19:00 Hout Bay harbour
STRANDFONTEIN
SIMON’S TOWN
SOUTH PENINSULA
If you would like to discover more
CAPE FLATS MITCHELLS PLAIN
TOKAI
KALK BAY
STREET FOOD
5. Hout Bay for fish’n’chips
GUGULETHU
CONSTANTIA
SOUTHERN SUBURBS
Situated in an old military base on the slopes of Signal Hill, the farm forms part of an informal community development project. It hosts a farmers market on the second Sunday of every month. Erf 81, Military Road, Tamboerskloof
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NOORDHOEK
If you would like to taste more local
BELLVILLE
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CITY WOODSTOCK CENTRE
CAMPS BAY
Two community farms also reside in the City Bowl.
4. Tyisa Nabanye
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GOODWOOD
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CLIFTON
If you would like to find out more about
Upper Orange Street, Oranjezicht Tel: 083 628 3426 for market location
NORTHERN SUBURBS
GREEN POINT
A rehabilitated old bowling green with weekly pop-up markets for local farmers on Saturday mornings.
1. Gugulethu This imposing granite memorial remembers Jabulani Godfery Miya, Zandisile Zenith Mjobo, Zola Alfred Swelani, Mandla Simon Mxinwa, Themba Mlifi, Zabonke John Konile and Christopher Piet. These seven young men were members of the ANC’s Umkhonto we Sizwe. They were lured into an ambush, shot and killed by members of the South African Police Force on 3 March 1989. Gugulethu Memorial, outside the Gugulethu police station, corner of NY1 and NY111, Gugulethu
2. Woodstock Visit Woodstock CAPE POINT
Discover dozens of street art murals, painted by local and international graffiti artists. Contact The Street is the Gallery on Facebook or on Twitter @AStreetGallery to find out more about booking a guided tour of the street art. Woodstock or Westridge in Mitchells Plain
6. Bellville for Somalian food HELDERBERG “Little Mogadishu” as some parts of the Bellville CBD has become known is the place to find somali food like baasto (pasta) with suugo suuqaar (spicy beef and tomato sauce). Cost: R50 for a large plate of spaghetti and meat sauce. Opening hours: weekdays from 08:00 to 17:00 Blankenberg Street, Bellville
7. Langa for some loxion Also known as a smiley, sheep’s heads (intloko yegusha) are prepared in an open-air informal kitchen. First the hair is scorched off over an open fire, then the head is butterflied and cooked in salted water for an hour. Cost: a whole head for R50 or a half for R25. Opening hours: seven days a week, 09:00 to 20:00 Rhodes Street, across from Chris Hani School, Langa