24 minute read
The Capital Cut | Summer 2022
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22ADVICE
Jay Birmingham, celebrity hairdresser and session stylist.
Monday
To kick start a super busy
and leaves me feeling really
inspired.collection and have a sneak
peek at the looks.
week in my life, Monday
began with me working on amagazine cover shoot. My dayThursday
Today marked the end of
Saturday
I’m heading to Los Angeles for
started early as I headed to
my journey working withthe iconic Coachella festival
Arcadia magazine to style TV
the gorgeous Maya Jama asnext week so I spent the
sports presenter and former
she filmed for the hit BBCmorning organising my kit and
professional footballer, Alex
TV show, Glow Up. I’ve beenmaking sure I’m all stocked up
Location
Scott’s hair.working with Maya for around
on my favourite hero productsLondon
two months since she startedfor the occasion. For trips
The creative brief for the
presenting this season oflike this, you can never be
Years in business
front cover shoot was natural,the show and today was the
too organised. I make sure6
effortless glam, so I styledfilming finale; it was such
to pack a selection of clip-inAlex’s hair into a voluminous
an honour to celebrateextensions and hair pieces as
Social media
wave with volume and textureeveryone’s hard work with
well as a few different heated@jaybirmingham_
around her face. Shoots likethe team. For Maya’s look
styling tools so I’m ready to@jayb.hair
this mean I get to work closelyfor the show we opted for a
create a variety of looks.with the talent, the makeup
very cool girl aesthetic; herartist and the photographer so
style was stripped back andFollowing my morning of
it’s a collaboration between all
effortlessly gorgeous whichpacking, I headed to style
of us as creatives; it’s one of
is my favourite.Rochelle’s hair. She was
A WEEK
IN MYmy favourite parts of my job as
a celebrity and session stylist.Tuesday
Today I worked with my
gorgeous client, MunroeFriday
During the day I worked with a
few of my regular clients. I stilllove client facing work fromextensions to cut and style andcelebrating her birthday and
wanted something polishedand put together to head outand celebrate. I created asuper shiny, soft wave throughher hair before I tied half ofBergdorf. She was heading
sometimes I offer colour too.her hair up to create a subtle
SHOES
to the Bridgerton season 2
premiere in London so I lovedgetting her red carpet ready.I think it’s important to have
a balance so I often work witha few of my private clientslifted effect round her face.
To elevate her style I created adefined centre parting to bringMunroe is such an amazing
throughout the week.it altogether.
source of inspiration and
working with her allows meto create and style lots ofwigs, which I love as it meanswe can change her look inan instant. I love the buzz ofgetting celebrities ready forthe red carpet!Jay’s advice
“Make sure you are always the hardest
worker in the room. Remain professional butfriendly at all times and try not to blur thelines between your work life and personal lifetoo much. Always be open to opportunitiesWednesday
Today was an exciting day
assisting one of my favouritecelebrity hairdressing peers,Andrew Fitzsimmons. He’srecently launched his ownbut have confidence and belief in yourself
to say no to things that don’t feel right foryou – everyone is on their own path.”In the evening I headed to
The Londoner, to celebrate theSunday
In contrast to my work with
range of products and asked
launch of former singer andcelebrities and creative
me to assist him with styling
TV presenter Rochelle Humes’work, I still work as a bridal
All imagery supplied
the hair for a model for anevent in London. I drove tothe glamorous NoMad hotelin London and worked on thehair with Andrew and theteam. Working collaborativelylike this is always great fun
collection with Next Official.I’m often invited to eventslike this due to my Instagramfollowing and profile withinthe industry. This event waslovely and was a chance tocelebrate Rochelle’s new
hairdresser, so I headed to myhometown of Birmingham towork with a bride and createsome classic, bridal glamour.Love it!
6 7
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22TRENDS
SUMMERV I B E S
Fudge
Unsplash
Unsplash
Summer prep isn’t just for those clients who are jetting off; check out our list of warm weather must-haves from some of our favourite experts.
Get lashed!
So many of the hot beauty trends for
2022 revolve around the eyes – it’sas if now the masks are (mostly) off,we want to show our eyes off evenmore. Alongside the trends for pasteleyeshadow and smudged eyeliner,voluminous lashes really make sense.Rachel Young, of Xtreme Beauty,
Newcastle upon Tyne is a VolumeLash specialist who’s really excitedabout the trend.“Lash extensions really do make my
clients feel more confident and goodabout themselves, and gone are the dayswhen getting your lashes done had to befor a special occasion or your holidays.There are now so many options to suitevery personal preference, from a classicnatural set, to wispy hybrid sets andvolume sets.“My ultimate favourite for Summer ‘22 has to be the Fox Eye trend. The Fox Eye is created by using an L Curl lash and a bit of C curl to give a really winged sexy eyeliner effect. Another trend for Summer is mixing in coloured lashes – perfect for clients who are really fashion forward.” @xtreme_neauty_ncl
OPI
ShutterstockGlossy hair rules
Whether your client’s in for colour or
just a cut and style, everyone wants
glamorous, shiny hair for Summer.Balayage Boss Samantha Cusick saysglossing treatments are a brilliant andeasy option to brighten any clients’ look.“Freshening up your client’s colour
with a gloss is such a quick, simple andcost-effective way of getting their hairSummer-ready. Glosses are a great wayof updating their look and playing witha different tone; Redken is about tolaunch its new golden blondes as partof their fantastic Shades EQ familywhich is perfect for the holiday season.”Darrel Starkey of Taylor’s Hair Studio
agrees with Samantha, adding thatglossing treatments can be marketedas mini treats for clients, whetherthey’re jetting off or staying at home.“Whether it’s a vacation or staycation,
mini treatments work for every singleclient and are a great way to give haira boost just in time for the Summermonths; I love offering luxurious glossingor conditioning treatments for a reallyspecial touch. They can revitalise colour,lock it in, add the most incredible shineand leave hair looking and feelingamazing – such a great way to kick off theSummer season!” says Darrel.Offer more
When a client’s planned a holiday right
down to the finer details, they’re oftenpressed for time as their trip approaches.
Why not make things easier and offer
them a treatment package, or as DarrelStarkey puts it: a ‘package deal’?Darrel’s been offering this to his clients
already and is seeing a great response.He says:“Although I’m not one for offering
discounts often, this is a brilliant andsimple way to entice clients in; wecombine two services into one and offera ‘small’ discount, just enough for it tomake sense to the client – they feel likethey’ve saved time and money. Why notoffer a ‘treatment and trim’ consisting ofa cut, style and luxury treatment? Also,consider a price ending in a 0 or 5 – eg£30/£35 for these ‘deals’ - research hasshown using a 0 or 5 causes the reader’smind to think they’ve scored a bargainand it automatically captures theirattention.”Tanning - contouring that’s nothing to do with the face!
For Salon System’s tanning expert Lisa
Stone, Summer’s all about offering moreand, she says, contouring is no longerthe domain of the face.“Contouring with a tan is a reallyspecialised technique that almost reshapesthe body, highlighting areas theclient wants to show off, while helpingto disguise areas they’re not so in lovewith. Contouring can be used to give theillusion of slimmer, more toned areas,creating and sculpting a shape, much thesame way we use makeup on our faces.
This is a top trend that’s ideal for special
occasions, holidays and any of yourclients who are body builders.”The perfect wax
Some might say that during the pandemic
waxing was one of those regularmaintenance rituals that well and trulywent out the window, and Salon Systemwaxing expert Lisa Stone warns thiscould be the busiest time you’ve seenin years.“A key focus for Summer would be
improving your speed, so I would highlyrecommend that not only do you choosethe latest innovative waxing products, butyou also learn speed waxing techniques.This way you can work fast andefficiently, reduce your treatment timesand get more hairy bodies booked in.”Lisa also says it’s time to think about
expanding your services:“Maybe add intimate waxing to yourmenu or encourage holiday packages; forinstance you could offer underarm waxesas an add-on for anyone booking a legwax, or add on a toe wax to a pedicureservice. If you don’t already offer servicesto male clients, then now is the time forsmooth backs and chests!”Now you know the trends, it’s time
to ensure you’ve got the techniquesnailed! Turn the page to see our latesttraining courses that guarantee yourclients will be Summer-ready…12 13
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22
TRAININGSUMMER
R E A D YWe’ve given you the latest trends, now check out the must-have training courses that will ensure your clients look good all Summer long.
Yovanka Loria
Yovanka Loria
Want more training info? Head to
capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/trainingFACE-FRAMING LASHES AND BROWS
The course: Brow Lamination, Lash
Lift and Tinting MasterclassWhat you’ll learn: Lashes and browsare a huge trend for 2022, and with thiscourse you’ll be able to serve any client,any taste. Using innovative brands suchas Lash FX and Hi Brow you will learnhow to carry out the super popular trendof Brow Lamination, plus brow tint andlash lift with tint. Basically, it’s like awardrobe for the eyes! As well as thepractical aspect you’ll learn the theory ofproduct knowledge, contra-indications,aftercare, the various lash types andmuch more.What you’ll need: Two models forcarrying out the treatments and theymust have a patch test at least 48 hoursbeforehand.Time frame: 10am-4pmCost: £175 ex VAT
NAILING THE SUMMER TRENDS
The course: TMC Soft Gel Tips
WorkshopWhat you’ll learn: Whether it’s a superlong style or your client’s nails just needtidying up, Soft Gel Tips offer quick,strong, beautiful nail enhancements.You’ll learn how to apply tips/extensionsto the nail followed by the application ofThe Manicure Company Soft Gel Tips.What you’ll need: This course is suitablefor beginners and existing techniciansbut you will need to purchase the TMCSoft Gel Tips Starter Kit plus a few moreessentials, details of which you can findon the course listing online.Time frame: 10am-4pmCost: £125 ex VAT
If you’re looking for other nail courses,be sure to check out the full range atcapitalhairandbeauty.co.uk/training/nail-coursesGLOWING ALL OVER
The course: Sienna X Spray Tanning
Everyone will be looking for a glowthis summer, and you might even getsome requests for the contouring trendwe saw on the previous page! Learneverything from perfecting the spraytan, the importance of the consultation,the science behind tanning and so muchmore. You’ll also receive business adviceto ensure you know exactly how to marketyourself if this is a new service for you.
What you’ll need: You must create anaccount online at sienna-x.co.uk and youshould wear loose, dark clothing on theday of your practical learning.Time frame: One hour online learningplus 6 hours in-store practical.Cost: £95 ex VAT
SUPER SMOOTH SUMMER
The course: Just Wax Intimate
Waxing Blended CourseWhat you’ll learn: This is a professionalwaxing course for experienced waxingtechnicians using the award-winningSalon System Multiflex waxing range. Onthis course you’ll learn the correct skinprep and how to perfect classics suchas the Hollywood and Brazilian waxingtechniques. Like Lisa Stone of SalonSystem advised on the previous page,don’t forget the growing male client basein need of pre-holiday waxing!What you’ll need: You will need to bringa model to the practical.Time frame: Three hours online theoryplus 4 hours in-store practical. You mustcomplete the theory before you attend thepractical.Cost: £145 ex VAT
GLOSSY AND GLOWING
The course: Redken Liquid Colour
Online MasterclassWhat you’lllearn: You
heard theBalayageBoss herself,SamanthaCusick,raving aboutRedken’sShades EQrange on page12, so whynot check outthis online course in crafting the perfectglossy colour? You’ll learn all the blendingtechniques to create the most beautifulbespoke looks.What you’ll need: A fully charged laptop,tablet or smartphone with access toMicrosoft Teams and some peace andquiet for an hour.Time frame: One hour.Cost: £20 ex VAT
Redken
14 15
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22
NAILS
THE NAIL TRENDS WE’RE LOVING FOR
SUMMER!
This season it’s all aboutbright and bold looks witha few surprises thrown in;think pastel tones with adash of neon and easyhacks to create geometricpatterns. Check out ourstep by steps and let usknow how you get on overon Instagram @capitalhair/ @capitalhairireland.
OPI #NailBoss Dani Bailey shares two looks that are all about mixing it up!
LOOK 1: PAINTERLY PASTELS
For this really quick and simple, yet effective design I usedOPI GelColor shades from the Spring ‘22 Xbox collection:Heart and Con-Soul, Racing for Pinks, Trading Paints, Can’tCTRL Me and The Grass is Always Greener.
Step 1 On a base of white polish, scatter dotsof the colours around, in no particular order.
Step 2 Before curing, simply blend the colourswith an ombre brush, using light downwardstrokes and cleaning the brush in between.
Step 3 When you’re happy with the results,cure, topcoat and voila!
Dani’s top tip“Don’t be afraid to play with pigments! They’reso versatile; when mixed with a base coat they make the mostbeautiful neon shades and if you mix with white they creategorgeous pastels – so they’re a great money-saver as you cancreate multiple new colours.” @nailsbydanibailey
OPI
Metta Francis is an award-winning nail tech who knows her trends. Here she shares her
go-to pedicure process.
The Perfect PedicureSoaking feet as the first step of apedicure will not only relax thefeet, but it also helps to soften anyhard skin and cuticles, makingremoval easier.
Top tipIn the summer months, slightlycooler water can be used for amore refreshing foot soak – greatfor reviving tired feet!
After soaking, dry feet and trim and file toe nails. Always cut nails straightacross to avoid ingrown toenails. Then apply cuticle remover and callussoftener; leave for a few minutes to activate before removing the cuticle,dead skin and smoothing away any hard skin.
Dry feet so they are slightly damp and massage a foot scrub into the feet andlower legs using circular motions, focusing on the heels and cuticle area.
Top tipApply booties or wrap feet in towels for five minutes for a reallyhydrating mask. Rinse off and dry feet before performing a foot/legmassage using a moisturising massage lotion.
Top tipApply a rich oil to the lotion for extra slip and hydration.
Cleanse toe nails and apply polish or gel polish and finishthe treatment with cuticle oil and a refreshing spray.
Metta’s Summer forecast
Purples, all the neons, pick ‘n’ mix designs and bright coloured tips willbe popular this Summer, as will a perfectly manicured and glossy finish!Oh, and we’ll continue to see clients adorning their fingers with lots ofrings and accessories. @nailsbymets
NEW FROM TMC!
Want to add even more creativityto your nail art? Head to page 34to see the brand new gel linersfrom The Manicure Company!
Salon System nail expert Julie-Anne Lariviére shares the steps for her Abstract Leaves design using the new GELLUX Free Spirit shades…
Step 1Prepare nailsby pushing backcuticles, trimmingexcess, shapingthe free edge, andbuffing the nailplate with a white block. Dust well andwipe thoroughly with GELLUX Nail+FileSpray. Apply GELLUX Fast Bond, let dryfor 30 seconds then apply one coat ofGELLUX Cover Pink Base, cure for 60seconds in between layers.
Step 2Using a liner brush,apply randomwavy patchesusing GELLUXGo with The Flowon the side of thepinky, index fingers and thumb. Then addpatches on the centre tip of the middleand ring fingers using GELLUX Free Spiritand GELLUX Be A-Maize-ing shades. Curefor 30 seconds.
Step 3With a fine linerdipped in GELLUXMaple DreamsCome True, paintthe stem on themiddle and ringfingers. Cure.
Step 5Finish withGELLUX MatteBase/Top makingsure to cap theedges and cure.
Step 4Dip again inGELLUX MapleDreams Come Trueand create theleaves, then cure.
Wipe residue with GELLUX Prep & Wipeand finish with cuticle oil.
18 19
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22
COLOUR
BOLD,
BLONDE
S U M M E R
Robert Eaton
Joico
Sharon Malcolm
Sharon Malcolm
Bright, bold blondes are a trend that’s always in style but there’s something about these new Summer ’22 blondes that’s hitting different now the world is opening up. Read on for the latest blonde techniques and trends and of course, the best care tips for
Beautiful blondes
Goldwell Global Ambassador Angelo Seminara’s Summer prediction: “Solage, because I believe sun-kissed hair is the most beautiful hair there is. I created Solage to capture that spontaneous beauty you get when the sun lightens the hair naturally. For me, Solage is the way forward. It’s the best way to colour your hair because it’s super subtle and the most wearable.
For lightened hair, I love using Goldwell Blondes & Highlights Anti-Yellow Shampoo to instantly bring out the colour
care you need for all blondes and is the perfect way to optimise your blonde service. With Integrated Hair Bond Technology you can ensure brilliant blonde looks with outstanding hair quality and high shine.
“Blonde Expert already offers the perfect performance, range and versatility to cover all your blonde needs, and with Blonde Expert Care we can ensure a client’s blonde is protected and maintained at home. The Integrated Hair-Bond Technology creates a protective layer around the natural bonds, helping to ensure the integrity of
Lived-in blondes…
Summer’s not just about bold and fresh tones; there’s also a
trend towards sultry, lived-in, warmer tones, says Coral Jade.“Clients are ditching the icy look and going for creamy and
sun-kissed blondes. Money pieces and dimension are perfectfor lived-in and low maintenance blondes and my favouriteaftercare range for all my blondes has to be the SchwarzkopfProfessional Blondme range. It has everything from lightweightshampoos and conditioners to more nourishing products forhair that’s really in need of moisture.”at-home maintenance.
luminosity and minimise colour fading. I recommend using Goldwell Blondes & Highlights Brilliance Serum Spray
the fabric of the hair is maintained throughout
@coraljadehairandbeauty
for instant combability and built-in heat protection.
the whole process, fromBarb Mahony of Do My Hair, Leicester agrees, saying that
in-salon to care at home.
lived-in blondes are all about that beachy vibe.Also, to revive a cool blonde effect between salon visits, try
Blondes never lookedGoldwell’s Color Revive Color-Giving Conditioner in either
better.”“Lived-in colour is so hot for Summer ‘22. From beach babe
Light Cool Blonde or Icy Blonde.”
face-framing, sun-kissed subtle highlights to a sultry CaliforniaIndola Global Ambassador Paddy McDougall shares his blonde care essentials: “Indola’s new Blonde Expert Care range is the high performing
Andrew Jose
The Blonde Expert Care range is available from £5.60.
chic, the thing that ties them together is that we’re still loving
natural roots – whether it’s through a colour melt or leaving theroot area on a Cali blonde. This not only gives dimension to theoverall look but means the upkeep is more manageable.22 23
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22
TRENDS
LET’S GO
OUTSIDE!
Schwarzkopf Professional Young Art Team
1996, and go for high pigtails but add in some random baby braids of various thicknesses. Finally, for added oomph place some hair rings throughout the lengths of the braids.” @thecrowningstylistrsh
Sheree Thompson of Siren Hair Art loves braids because they allow her as a stylist to be more creative.
@paris.artiste
Festival season is backand while the fashionhas changed a lot,the hair and beautylooks still scream funand experimentation!Check out what thepros are predictingfor Summer ’22.
COLOUR PLAY
“Festivals are such a colourful, freeenvironment where people can trulyembrace their individuality, and choosinga brighter hair colour can complete thelook,” says Pulp Riot Artist ChristabelLegrand. “For shorter hair I think a keytrend will be buzzcuts teamed with pinkand neon tones, even with some imprintedpatterns. For longer hair we are seeing
@styledxmelissa
extremepanels ofcolour,with bigchunkysectionsor hiddenpanelsbeing bigtrends.
“For a supereasy colourthat’s perfectfor festivalseason andalso fadesreally well, trya soft pastelpink for levels8-10 with PulpRiot Semi-Permanent Blush, or for morecoverage and a brighter tone on levels6-10 use Semi-Permanent Cupid. Even ifclients are nervous about trying a brightershade, remember you can remove all ofthe Pulp Riot Semi-Permanent shadeswith Blank Canvas, returning your clientto their original starting point – ideal forwhen they need to go back to work afterthe festival!” @christabel_legrand
David CorbettGerald DawkinsChristabel Legrand
BRAIDS SEASON
Braids never go out of style and onceSummer hits, everyone wants to play.There are no limits when it comes tolength, or colour!
Stylist Anna Stubbs says:“Bubble braids are such a fun look and Ilove changing the elastics to neon colours– it’s just a really easy way to give yourclients a fun festival vibe. I also thinkspace buns are a great alternative; they’resuper easy to create and you can add inextra hair or even throw glitter on top formaximum impact.”@annastubbshair
For West Sussex hairdresser Lisa Carter,this season’s braids are throwing it back
nearest store today or shop online at capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk and capitalhairandbeauty.ie. 28 29
Christabel Legrand
to ‘90s.
“We’re seeing more 90’s vibes on thecatwalk and it’s not before long theY2K trends will come right alongside it.We’re seeing a move from the perfectlycoiffured beach and glamour waves toa more natural, carefree bending of thehair. Add in some face-framing babybraids to hair that’s worn down for achic but simple festival look. If you wantto go a bit further, think Baby Spice in
“From fishtail to Dutch, French to accent;there are so many options to choose from,and there’s something to suit everyone.The beauty with braids is that you canreally make them unique, simply byadding a ribbon or piece of fabric throughthe braid, or decorating them withdiamantes, pearls or even glitter for thosewanting something a bit more OTT!”@sirenhairart
UP OR DOWN?
When it comes to festival hair it’s allabout long-lasting style that makes animpact and keeps hair out of the way.
Sheree Thompson says ponytails offer theultimate solution that ticks all the boxes.
“Ponytails are very low maintenanceand can be worn a variety of differentways and last for long periods of time.Depending on the vision of the client andthe outfits they have planned, the ponytailcould be a very glamorous and boldmoment or it could be more relaxed andboho; you really can tailor this look towork with any theme.Depending on the style of ponytailchosen, it can also be accessorised withthe addition of jewels, glitter or anythingthe client wishes. With festivals, anythinggoes!”
ALL ABOUT THE EYES
It’s not just the hair on their heads thatyour clients will want to have fun with;don’t forget the lashes too! We love thesecolourful lash extensions by JoannaKeller; simple and easy yet so striking.Let us know if you try this on your clientsover on Instagram @capitalhair.
Now you’ve got the trends, you might need to check you’re all stocked up and festival ready! Head to your
ghdTristan Eves
ghd
Joanna Keller @joannakellerbeautique
THE CAPITAL CUT SUMMER 22
STYLING
HOTT O O L S !
The temperature’s rising and we’re not just talking Summer vibes. Check out what the experts are loving right now when it comes to heated tools…
“ghd has just launched a new thin wand and I am obsessed! For my clients it’s great for enhancing the natural texture of curly hair, but I also love it for myself as it allows me to live my Carrie Bradshaw hair dreams.” Samantha Cusick @samanthacusicklondon
“My favourite curler by far is my Haito Straightener! It’s a great multipurpose styling tool that creates amazing curls on every kind and length of hair. A real must have for any stylist’s kit bag.” Coral Jade @coraljadehairandbeauty
@danilogiangreco_hair “The tools I always find myself reaching for are from ghd, especially when it comes to my brides – and myself! “I love that ghd tools work on every hair type from thin and fine hair, to thick, coily hair and how you’re able to give a complete transformation or just touch up naturally curly hair.” Rianna Henry @theblowdryartist
“A waving iron is a Summer must-have hot tool. It’s an easy way to create effortless beach waves that last for days. My favourite hairdryer has to be the ghd Air Professional Hairdryer. I love the innovative technology that helps us achieve a voluminous and shiny result without spending a long time trying to get there!” Anna Stubbs @annastubbshair
“The curling tong has firmly become my go-to hot tool for creating waves in the hair. I like one with a longer length barrel as it means I can easily wrap longer hair around in one go. Also, go for one that has a temperature setting, so you can opt for a lower temperature for clients with finer hair and a slightly higher temperature for thicker, more coarse hair. My recommendation on any hot tool would be to keep it at around 180° as a maximum to minimise damage to the hair.” Lisa Carter @thecrowningstylistrsh
“I am very much a ghd fan and I use the straighteners every single day, on clients, on shoots, for my award entries and when creating content. The straighteners are super easy to use, but can also be used to curl, create waves and also create different shapes within the hair. Heating to 185 degrees, they deliver the most incredible results and I honestly couldn’t live without them.” Darrel Starkey @darrelstarkey90
Rianna Henry
“My go-to will always be a styler with ceramic plates; fantastic not only for curling, but also waving, flicking and smoothing. It’s the perfect tool for stylist and client due to its ease and speed.” Tori Kiff @hairloungebarnstaple
ghd
Shop our range of hot tools at
capitahairandbeauty.co.uk andcapitalhairandbeauty.ie today.“ I love the BaByliss Curling wand; I’m really into textured hair right now and I’m loving experimenting with this fantastic tool to create different looks, especially on shoots.” Danilo Giangreco
Lisa Carter
30 31